How to Tune & Use a Moving Fillister Plane
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- Hand plane expert Bill Anderson shows how to tune and use an antique wooden moving fillister plane to cut cross-grain and long grain rabbets joints. Buy the full video here: store.woodands...
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I just bought the same plane today. Can't wait to set up and use.
First time l saw this video Bill, lt made my day a happy one. So l got myself a nice wooden fillister from Old Wooden tools in Uk. l would like to complement you for your « get to the point» style. l rate you first along with Paul Seller in Uk among dozens of woodworkers videos. Tremendous inspiration you both have given me this autumn. Just felt it important to let you know that what you say and how you say it, made my life enter a new creative era. Kind regards and thanking you here from the Norwegian woods.
Hi Trygve, thanks for watching my videos of Bill! He is a great guy. Have you checked out my other videos and articles at WoodAndShop.com? And where in Norway do you live? My family is from there (as is Bill's) and I've traveled extensively through Norway.
Best,
Joshua
I want one of those.. thanks for the instruction.
Thank you so much for making these videos I have learned a lot 😊
Bill is a no doubt great craftsman, thanks for this video.
Great minds think alike Joshua, I just put out a blog post this week on the same topic. Great to hear Bill backing up my statements!
Thank you so much
Excellent video - learned a lot!
Thanks for the fine instructions! And what a nice plane you have 👍🏻
Some really good insights into how things are done with craftsmanship. When people had to be competent with their tools.
Glad it helped Chris!
this is very nice.Learned a lot . I made this one in my home but i need get more details
I can’t get mine to take a shaving/do a pass on a piece of wood. Before I sharpened it, it would do it but really rough, kept getting stuck, jumping around.
Sharpened the blade, I’m a newb, but I think I did it right, and now it just gets jammed into the wood. I tried adjusting the blade depth/protuberance many times. If the blade is even remotely visible it seems to bite in and refuse to proceed.
The moving fillister plane is in all round fantastic condition, blade isn’t pitted, it’s sharp now, all angles look pretty great, it’s a skewed iron.
Is there something I’m missing about the actual sharpening angles? I simply sharpened it to match the bevel angle.
Prior to my sharpening it the angle had been sharpened badly, it has a radius along the cutting width of the blade. I sharpened till it went away. I changed nothing else about the blade. Can anyone help me?
Assuming the geometry is now all correct - pretend it’s gone very blunt - how do I sharpen a blade from start to finish? Do I need a back angle or something? Does the sharpening angle need to be more severe than the big bevel angle on the iron? It’s the same pretty much.
It’s a lovely plane, D Kimberley and Sons, wish I knew how to make it do stuff though!!! I’ve watched everything and read everything online, no luck. I have 0 clue what I’m doing wrong and I don’t want to mess about with it anymore in case I make it worse? It’s been sat in a box for a year, poor thing.
I only have wet stones for sharpening it. Basically brand new and they look very flat. I have no jigs or machines and I’ve never sharpening anything before.
Beatiful tool.
could you also explain why the wood is breaking out at the end
Thats cool, you both have traces to Norway. You see may be thats why l like your camerause and Bills way of handeling issues. Understand you take a certain part of this, beeing the cameraman. (That happens to be my profession for the last 40 years) along with woodwork as hobby.
Yes, l have seen several of your videos and shall continue to do so. Oslo has been my base, but lived lots of places due to my workflow. Now setteling down near the woods, focus on woodwork, mostly the handtool way. Peaceful that way. Kind regards to you both Vikings 😎
Such a great teacher .Very impressive .On a metal plane I keep a pointy wedge jammed in near the back of the blade to clear out shavings .What if I glued a small magnet to the wedge ? Yeh .
Glad you liked it! Hmmm, very interesting thought.
My nicker is loose, you mentioned to file the long end but wouldn’t that make it worse?
I just got one of those !
You can clearly see the marks where the depth stop goes but there is no groove for a cutter!
Possible they made some to cut with the grain only?
Is the blade bevel down?
I ha e a fillister but when I got it it didn't have the nicker or the wedge for the nicker. Do you or anyone reading this know where I can purchase these parts?
I have the same missing nicker problem with one of my planes. Did you have any luck finding one? The wedge I can make, but I don’t have the equipment to make a nicker.
Nice bro
Is the only purpose for removing the nicker on ripping cuts so that you don't have to sharpen as often, or am I missing something else?
+John Smith It's just because of the grain direction. When you're cutting across the grain, you want to slice the wood fibers ahead of the iron or you'll get a lot of tear out. If you use it when planing parallel to the grain, the wood naturally separates. If you do use it when ripping, it tends to follow a slightly different path if you tilt the plane slightly, and you end up with a ragged edge.
Less important - I think it could weaken the rabbet at the bottom of the cut by cutting below the intended depth. That's not as much of a problem on cross grain
KingNast Thanks for the details!
+KingNast Thank you!
Кто так учил строгать,мне бы мастак в путяге сразу за то что я рубанок протащил бы назад не подняв двойку бы влепил!
I came, I saw, I still can't use a fillister plane.
making rabbits with fillibusters.
great advice but your mic was gained way to high it was clipping all over, really hard to listen to