You picked a “basket case” plane for this and I appreciate this video. I have about 100 wooden planes and many are in need of this type of clean up and repair.
At 30:46, saw quick flash of the sole of the plane and plane iron protrusion. It looked like there was no wood supporting the iron at the back of the mouth. I'm pretty sure that will cause your chatter. As your iron wasn't custom fit to the body, quite likely needs more fettling as well as the side fingers of the wedge looked extremely short won't be clamping the front of the blade iron down. The back of your iron looked terrible after your 1st test shave. Did you flatten it after that test?
It's nice to see your face as you talk us through it all, but it did obscure some of the procedures. Somewhat frustrating. Great though! Enjoyed it. 👍🏼
@@WoodenPlanes oh I didn't even realise it was an old video, I'll check out your new stuff. I've just inherited a bag of old wooden plans that I'm looking to restore - yours is one of the best I've seen, and I'm going to follow a lot of what you did. 👍🏼
A trick I often use when I need to transfer an iregular shape, or screw holes for mounting, is to photocopy the original and cut it out. Then, I can place that paper template where I need it.
Thanks for your video. What i really like is that you explain why you do stuff: Why you threw the old blade away, why you came back to re-flatten the bed.
Hello from the UK. I enjoyed your film, and have restored many a plane in a similar manner. May I suggest that you reposition your inset to the top left of the screen as some of your work was obscured. Otherwise a first class job. I agree that gentle cleaning of the wood is preferable to a total strip down. I love to see the decades of history and labour in the knicks and marks. I was selling some of my planes at the Woodfest event in Wales last weekend, and using only a Black and Decker workmate and some pallet wood, people were astounded at how good these planes and the related Jack's and jointers performed. When I gave them a chance to try the planes, that was when they had the realisation that wood on wood equals less friction and that the heft of the plane does half the work. Coupled with the fact that old tool steel takes such an edge, once the foibles of these planes are mastered they are the equal of anything on the market, regardless of the price.
As for the soot from the candle, you look on the bed for the black marks left where the iron was touching. This may be what you were doing but it wasn’t clear on the video. It appeared like you were looking at the marks left on the iron itself.
Did you ever get this plane working? Since you replaced the plane iron with a Buck Brothers you have a totally new wedge geometry. Not only do you need to rebed the iron to the throat of the plane, but you need to rebed the wedge to the iron. The most likely reason you were getting chatter is that the wedge was contacting the abutments in the back,of the throat but the fingers were not contacting the iron near the mouth. Stick a feeler-gauge in the mouth and see if you can get it between the iron and the fingers. If you can, a few swipes of a plane on the back of the wedge should prove all the difference.
I used the iron that came with the plane. It's not a replacement. You don't need to change the wedge shape when you use a new iron. Back when these planes were new it was expected that you would go through several irons over the life of the plane. Iron geometry was fairly standardized so all you need to do was drop in a new iron once the old one was used up and you were ready to go. With that said, when I'm restoring a plane and the wedge itself is in bad shape, then I sometimes do change the wedge. I like your idea of using a feeler gauge. I typically just make minor adjustments until I like how it beds, but a feeler gauge is a much better idea.
You have to slide the iron back and forth, only using finger pressure. If the plane iron does not move, then you are not rubbing. Pressure along is not sufficient. Have seen several use a carpenter's pencil to do the same thing.
Like your approach to cleaning. I use window cleaner and a green scrubber sponge. I repeatedly wet, scrub and sop with toilet paper. This removes the loosened dirt and avoids grind it back into the surface pores - give it a try you may like it. But like you say, it's all personal preference. Thanks for sharing your techniques!
I think this plane had been made by a woodworker himself, he did a very nice job on it, it looks great. But the thing wrong with it is the runout of the grain, and you can tell by the cracks near the iron that that isn't such a good idea Nice restoration!! You made it functional once again for another 100 years Ps: do you have a shooting board already?
Suggestion? It looks as tho this is an uploaded video of someone else's work with commentary. Because there is no unison between the video and audio you are knowledgeable I'd love to see you talk in the shop as you work I belive it will be much more likely to gain subs if you do so. I belive in you
It is a "me thing". I cannot stand music in the background. 1. I came for the instruction, not your taste in music. 2. I get distracted by the music. Usually, it is too loud. 3. As a musician, I critically listen to the musical composition. 4. "Oh, look, squirrel!"
get over it and turn down the music yourself. Personally, I like the fact that everything on youtube is non-professionally produced. It makes it authentic. If youtube gets to the point of being like TV, then it will have lost that authenticity. The main thing is that you were entertained and learned something from it, why not tell him that and leave off the criticism. I'm sure he realizes that on two or three occasions the work was briefly obscured. Life's not perfect. I appreciate that he has taken the time to share his knowledge and experience with the world. sorry, but your comments just felt so self serving I had to speak up.
If you like wooden plane videos, you'll love this newsletter: workingwoodenplanes.com No sales, no AI slop. Just good stories about planes.
You picked a “basket case” plane for this and I appreciate this video. I have about 100 wooden planes and many are in need of this type of clean up and repair.
Abraham, please continue along this path. Very instructive. Very well done. Thank you.
At 30:46, saw quick flash of the sole of the plane and plane iron protrusion. It looked like there was no wood supporting the iron at the back of the mouth. I'm pretty sure that will cause your chatter. As your iron wasn't custom fit to the body, quite likely needs more fettling as well as the side fingers of the wedge looked extremely short won't be clamping the front of the blade iron down. The back of your iron looked terrible after your 1st test shave. Did you flatten it after that test?
It's nice to see your face as you talk us through it all, but it did obscure some of the procedures. Somewhat frustrating.
Great though! Enjoyed it. 👍🏼
Thank you! The split window got pretty annoying to even me so I stopped doing it. My latest videos don't have it.
@@WoodenPlanes oh I didn't even realise it was an old video, I'll check out your new stuff. I've just inherited a bag of old wooden plans that I'm looking to restore - yours is one of the best I've seen, and I'm going to follow a lot of what you did. 👍🏼
Do you need to worry about contaminating the area around the cheek split when waxing before gluing?
Hi you do the best wooden plane demos on RUclips, so many thanks
Thanks!
Beautiful work
19:50 can the pits be filled with welding or silver solder?
You don't need to. You just need to flatten the back of the iron until all the pitting is removed.
1:45 they’re called ears (source: Whelan)
6:20 wood (pva) glues are water soluble. To get the glue down-in where you need it, thin it with some water
A trick I often use when I need to transfer an iregular shape, or screw holes for mounting, is to photocopy the original and cut it out. Then, I can place that paper template where I need it.
Thanks for your video. What i really like is that you explain why you do stuff: Why you threw the old blade away, why you came back to re-flatten the bed.
Really like your photography, description and explanation. I also like the pace of the video. Thanks.
Hello from the UK. I enjoyed your film, and have restored many a plane in a similar manner. May I suggest that you reposition your inset to the top left of the screen as some of your work was obscured. Otherwise a first class job. I agree that gentle cleaning of the wood is preferable to a total strip down. I love to see the decades of history and labour in the knicks and marks. I was selling some of my planes at the Woodfest event in Wales last weekend, and using only a Black and Decker workmate and some pallet wood, people were astounded at how good these planes and the related Jack's and jointers performed. When I gave them a chance to try the planes, that was when they had the realisation that wood on wood equals less friction and that the heft of the plane does half the work. Coupled with the fact that old tool steel takes such an edge, once the foibles of these planes are mastered they are the equal of anything on the market, regardless of the price.
Remarkable that the old tool steel takes such a better edge than today's tool steel!?
@@frro28but does it really?
What brand of tri square do you have? 8:41
As for the soot from the candle, you look on the bed for the black marks left where the iron was touching.
This may be what you were doing but it wasn’t clear on the video. It appeared like you were looking at the marks left on the iron itself.
Did you ever get this plane working? Since you replaced the plane iron with a Buck Brothers you have a totally new wedge geometry. Not only do you need to rebed the iron to the throat of the plane, but you need to rebed the wedge to the iron. The most likely reason you were getting chatter is that the wedge was contacting the abutments in the back,of the throat but the fingers were not contacting the iron near the mouth. Stick a feeler-gauge in the mouth and see if you can get it between the iron and the fingers. If you can, a few swipes of a plane on the back of the wedge should prove all the difference.
I used the iron that came with the plane. It's not a replacement. You don't need to change the wedge shape when you use a new iron. Back when these planes were new it was expected that you would go through several irons over the life of the plane. Iron geometry was fairly standardized so all you need to do was drop in a new iron once the old one was used up and you were ready to go. With that said, when I'm restoring a plane and the wedge itself is in bad shape, then I sometimes do change the wedge. I like your idea of using a feeler gauge. I typically just make minor adjustments until I like how it beds, but a feeler gauge is a much better idea.
@@WoodenPlanesHmm. In the video, you showed that the original blade was trashed, so you switched to a vintage Buck Bros iron.
what type of wood is it and what wood was your insert made from? Thnx
Some early American colonial planemakers used birch, but the 1800s essentially everyone had switched to beech for their bench planes.
You have to slide the iron back and forth, only using finger pressure. If the plane iron does not move, then you are not rubbing. Pressure along is not sufficient. Have seen several use a carpenter's pencil to do the same thing.
Like your approach to cleaning. I use window cleaner and a green scrubber sponge. I repeatedly wet, scrub and sop with toilet paper.
This removes the loosened dirt and avoids grind it back into the surface pores - give it a try you may like it. But like you say, it's all personal preference. Thanks for sharing your techniques!
Dish soap, shampoo, diluted 99c degreaser, etc.
Great chanel! Regards!
Hi stavros gakos!
Hello mate :)
Super, Klasse Kanal!!! Danke
I think this plane had been made by a woodworker himself, he did a very nice job on it, it looks great. But the thing wrong with it is the runout of the grain, and you can tell by the cracks near the iron that that isn't such a good idea
Nice restoration!! You made it functional once again for another 100 years
Ps: do you have a shooting board already?
Suggestion? It looks as tho this is an uploaded video of someone else's work with commentary. Because there is no unison between the video and audio you are knowledgeable I'd love to see you talk in the shop as you work I belive it will be much more likely to gain subs if you do so. I belive in you
keep up the good work!! great channel - waiting for more and for restoration of scrub plane ;)
I would have passed up on that plane in an instant!
It gets really bad when the work is done behind your face of wating. We cannot see the video. Really bad productiin for a goid work.
Careful with metal plane in vice. You can break off cheeks with it that high.
Take yourself out of the picture. We don't to see you, just what you are doing.
get your head out of the way
It is a "me thing". I cannot stand music in the background.
1. I came for the instruction, not your taste in music.
2. I get distracted by the music. Usually, it is too loud.
3. As a musician, I critically listen to the musical composition.
4. "Oh, look, squirrel!"
Please remove your face video and the annoying music.
get over it and turn down the music yourself. Personally, I like the fact that everything on youtube is non-professionally produced. It makes it authentic. If youtube gets to the point of being like TV, then it will have lost that authenticity. The main thing is that you were entertained and learned something from it, why not tell him that and leave off the criticism. I'm sure he realizes that on two or three occasions the work was briefly obscured. Life's not perfect. I appreciate that he has taken the time to share his knowledge and experience with the world. sorry, but your comments just felt so self serving I had to speak up.