some of the best "how-to" videos I've seen... clear, concise and to-the point without any extra verbiage... the sound quality and editing is top notch as well... thank you and a pat on the back to all involved...
Thanks for all the time and trouble which you have taken to share your knowledge in this excellent series of videos. I now realise how moulding planes are supposed to be used - quite a revelation!
Brilliant video thanks. Good pacing of the instructions without labouring the points. I am inspired to use the butterfly method now. Especially as it simply Looks better than a standard mitre. Love the shooting sander. I bet it was cheaper than the Veritas tools version. Great work. Looking forward to the next video.
Thanks for the compliments Mitch! I've had a look at your channel for examples of your handiwork, but I'm not really switched on about being able to recognise what is what on youtube stuff. I'm reluctantly being dragged into a tech-filled world that I'd happily avoid... ha ha!
Beautiful element, sadly I lack the patience for this level of detail outside of highly visible elements so will likely use the other method for my corners :)
Dear Simon, in keeping with the excellent presentations you have made, this video is a lovely description of how to go about this nice piece of craft. Have you done a tour of your workshop because I can see all sorts of interesting jigs and things on the back wall that I would love to know what they are for. Cheers.
Simon, this is a very good video description of the butterfly key in a miter joint. I have one question. When you place the key on the miter joint to initially mark out the position of the dovetail you didn't seem to pay too much attention to making sure the ends of the bf key were parallel to the miter joint. I am pretty sure this needs to be done so that when you transfer the marks to the other side with your marking gauge the marks line up properly. do you just do this by eye or is there some other step that will ensure a parallel line for the dovetail? Hope that was clear enough. Thanks.
Hi Steven, you're bang on right about the need for alignment, it's really important, and yes I did miss out this step in the explanation. I did just eye it in but it would be more accurate to align the bf key with a well placed pencil reference line, going across both sides of the joint at 90 degrees to the miter. Good question to ask, thanks for pointing this out.
Hi Josh! There are a few different names for this device, and it's used for lots of miter related tasks like shooting and paring at 45 degrees. I inherited it of a retired cabinet maker who lives down the road, and I've since made a load of shooting boards which replace this for the most part. I don't have any videos on making it, but I am doing videos on a whole range of really handy workshop devices, and they'll be out in a few months. Daed Toolworks have got a blog post on one way it's used, and you'll find it here www.daedtoolworks.com/ranma-i-tooling/. All the best, Simon
***** Hi Simon, thanks for the info on the miter jack, but I was referring to the vise/press hanging to the between the backsaws and the dividers. It appears like a moxon vise like benchcrafted style (benchcrafted.com/MoxonVise.html), but you seem to be using some metal threaded rods that I'm not familiar with. Are those veneer press screws?
Josh Garrisi Ok, I understand the question now. Yes they are clamps, and you're right about the veneer link. I call these 'caul clamps' as one side of the clamp is curved, putting pressure dead centre at first and then at the sides as the work is tightened and the curved clamp bar is straightened out - handy for veneer work! However, I use these for a whole load of different applications from flattening boards as dovetails are marked out, to just holding boards off the bench whilst I work on them. I'll do some videos on these soon. They are shop made out of sapele mahogany, some 3/8" threaded bar, 'T' nuts and some handles.
Хобби
This - and playing music - is what I live for. Thanks for making life even more enjoyable. I’m off to my workshop!
some of the best "how-to" videos I've seen... clear, concise and to-the point without any extra verbiage... the sound quality and editing is top notch as well... thank you and a pat on the back to all involved...
At the end of the video, it's another teaser for the next video. 😁😁😁😁
Stop. I am on video #4 already. This is getting addictive.
I love the look of your shop with the dark cabinets and bench. They present the look of a well used 19th century shop with hand tools!
Thanks for all the time and trouble which you have taken to share your knowledge in this excellent series of videos. I now realise how moulding planes are supposed to be used - quite a revelation!
U r a wizard thanks for posting
wonderful videos, great skills
Brilliant video thanks. Good pacing of the instructions without labouring the points. I am inspired to use the butterfly method now. Especially as it simply Looks better than a standard mitre. Love the shooting sander. I bet it was cheaper than the Veritas tools version. Great work. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you very much for sharing.
Good subject, well described, and great video work.
Thanks for the compliments Mitch! I've had a look at your channel for examples of your handiwork, but I'm not really switched on about being able to recognise what is what on youtube stuff. I'm reluctantly being dragged into a tech-filled world that I'd happily avoid... ha ha!
I know the feeling!
Just noticed,,really nice music fella,! 😀😀👏🏻🇬🇧
Beautiful element, sadly I lack the patience for this level of detail outside of highly visible elements so will likely use the other method for my corners :)
Just so interesting fella,!,,gladly just subscribed 👍👍👍🇬🇧
Again, very nice work........make more videos!
Dear Simon, in keeping with the excellent presentations you have made, this video is a lovely description of how to go about this nice piece of craft. Have you done a tour of your workshop because I can see all sorts of interesting jigs and things on the back wall that I would love to know what they are for. Cheers.
Brilliant
I. Can't wait for your DVD set to go with he book great work. Also does your book show the sizes of your sticking board ?
This dude is good.
Do you videos or plans for the jigs used? Great video
Simon, this is a very good video description of the butterfly key in a miter joint. I have one question. When you place the key on the miter joint to initially mark out the position of the dovetail you didn't seem to pay too much attention to making sure the ends of the bf key were parallel to the miter joint. I am pretty sure this needs to be done so that when you transfer the marks to the other side with your marking gauge the marks line up properly. do you just do this by eye or is there some other step that will ensure a parallel line for the dovetail? Hope that was clear enough. Thanks.
Hi Steven, you're bang on right about the need for alignment, it's really important, and yes I did miss out this step in the explanation. I did just eye it in but it would be more accurate to align the bf key with a well placed pencil reference line, going across both sides of the joint at 90 degrees to the miter. Good question to ask, thanks for pointing this out.
Supper
I'd like to see a video on the construction of the moxon vise you have in on the back wall there.
Hi Josh! There are a few different names for this device, and it's used for lots of miter related tasks like shooting and paring at 45 degrees. I inherited it of a retired cabinet maker who lives down the road, and I've since made a load of shooting boards which replace this for the most part. I don't have any videos on making it, but I am doing videos on a whole range of really handy workshop devices, and they'll be out in a few months. Daed Toolworks have got a blog post on one way it's used, and you'll find it here www.daedtoolworks.com/ranma-i-tooling/. All the best, Simon
***** Hi Simon, thanks for the info on the miter jack, but I was referring to the vise/press hanging to the between the backsaws and the dividers. It appears like a moxon vise like benchcrafted style (benchcrafted.com/MoxonVise.html), but you seem to be using some metal threaded rods that I'm not familiar with. Are those veneer press screws?
Josh Garrisi Ok, I understand the question now. Yes they are clamps, and you're right about the veneer link. I call these 'caul clamps' as one side of the clamp is curved, putting pressure dead centre at first and then at the sides as the work is tightened and the curved clamp bar is straightened out - handy for veneer work! However, I use these for a whole load of different applications from flattening boards as dovetails are marked out, to just holding boards off the bench whilst I work on them. I'll do some videos on these soon. They are shop made out of sapele mahogany, some 3/8" threaded bar, 'T' nuts and some handles.
not only is this Brillant !! but your British to boot whoo :) no wedding band hehe ( my bad ) LOL
9:20 Any advice on making that dovetail cut straight. I always seem to get this wrong.
Is the butterfly tapered narrower at the bottom than the top?
Thank you. Great video. You saws look like they need to be sharped. Are they a bit dull
Michael Palin...
You can make it yourself, just loook and learn from woodprix.
This time I will use Woodglut plans for this.
I have done very similar with Woodprix designs.
Just go to Stodoys plans if you want to know how to do it yourself.