Install Electronics Micro Hydro 8/10
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- The electronics of this install might seem a little daunting at first but they are not that bad once you dive into it. I am no electrician so install your electronics at your own risk.
I am using several components to make this all happen:
- Midnite Solar Classic 200 Charge Controller.
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- Sun-1000g2 Grid Tie limiter inverter 1000 watts 45 to 90v.
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- Five Advanced Auto H8-AGM platinum Batteries 60v total.
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- Two Disconnect Switch
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- Breaker
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Wire and cables from almost any auto place.
Did you miss an episode? Here they are in order:
1 Screen Intake
• Intake Screen Box Buil...
2 Barrel Intake
• Intake Barrel for Silt...
3 Penstock
• Installing the Penstoc...
4 Pressure Test
• Pressure Test and New ...
5 Turbine Housing
• Turbine Housing Build ...
6 Turbine Install
• Installing the Turbine...
7 Wire Run to the House
• Run the Wire to the Ho...
8 Install Electronics
• Install Electronics Mi...
9 Power on the Turbine
• Power up the Turbine M...
10 Full Overview
• Full System Overview M...
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P.O. Box 323
Micaville, NC 28755
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You are doing a good job so far. You will be doing many fine-tuning steps after you get it installed. You are 10 steps ahead of most people. One quick pro tip. On striping outer insulator off of your wire. There is a cheap tool that every electrician uses. Only costs a couple of bucks and kind of looks like a thin piece of metal with a hole in the end. Then it has a short sharp piece stubbed out. You run your sheathed wire through it squeeze down and pull. It cuts through the outer sheath but not the inner insulation. Then you just peel the sheath off like a banana and cut it off.
Thank you! Getting this far has taken months! Its so nice to have the system up and running. I have always had an issue getting that outer sheathing off the wire. I will have to look into getting that tool.
Oh, that unused ground lug in the midnite classic is just begging to be used. You know like that unused ground in your wire all the way out to your generator......
Thanks for putting these out. Love the series.
Someday I am going to connect that ground. I have the solar install going in right now. When that is in I can connect the ground in both systems.
Keep in mind that the batteries have to be balanced from time to time, because they are in series - better purchase an active BMS
Just for piece of mind I would put a ground strap on to your sheet metal even if there is a ground from your outlet recptical to your mail house breaker box
I could do that. Apparently the main ground is plenty but why not make even more sure!
Looks like it is coming along nicely!
Yes it sure is! just 2 more episodes in this series. Then on to the next one.
I wanted to thank you for your solar panel mount video. I used something very similar to mount my panels. Videos coming soon.
@@LandtoHouse Great! I'm glad to hear that video was helpful. I know it's a pain to record everything step by step and then edit things so they are coherent...and it makes the process for everything take much longer. You're doing a great job with your series! I've really enjoyed watching it and look forward to the next! Keep up the good work! Also, enjoy your accomplishments!
Yes filming step-by-step makes my projects at least 3 times longer. But I feel like it's worth it in the end.
Your overview on solar has been super helpful.
i suggest putting a wire clamp on the wires where they go into the charge controller to prevent mice from wrecking it when they go in by the wires and making a nest in there. Also it looks like you have some fiberglass insulation above the inverter that might fall and cause the inverter to over heat if it comes loose or mice loosen it. Maybe a board fastened above the inverter to prevent the fiberglass from falling on it.
Happy fan here,expensive but you'll enjoy free power for long
Yes! And I am going to make a hybrid off grid system.
@@LandtoHouse It looks great. Check out this whole house off-grid system with 3 mini split A/C systems running. I would expect your system to do at least this well after adding your solar. They are not hooked to the grid. David
ruclips.net/video/-YkGmroOjxc/видео.html
@@CyberviewU with solar I am going to also connect to the other leg of the main power. That way I can feed things like the stove and clothes dryer at full sun potential.
@@LandtoHouse Wow, a 220V system.
Well kind of. The inverters will each have a leg of the main separately at 110v.
I'm watching your show but I just wanted to let you know you're doing a good job when you was installing your inverter you need to put wire garments on your wire because your house can catch on fire enjoying your show
I did that about 18 years ago :). I had 10 batteries in parallel for 12 volts. Had a wind turbine and 3 100W solar panels.
Solar Panels? A teaser for future vids! You've got a lot going on in this vid, Great job on shelves of ram pump inventory! I love it! Never seen a breaker box that small before. Nothing like hauling 50lb batteries bent over in a tight space, back breaking. I had a shade tree mech smear MP grease on the battery poles to stop corrosion. Great Job!
Yes solar is on the way! I have had the panels up for almost a year and did not have the money for the electronics. Those batteries were a real pain... in the back.
I like the way you interact with your viewers and their comments. Your project don't get too technical wich, makes it easier for us viewers understand and enjoy. Keep up the good work. Also you could add more batteries for a larger storage capavity.
Well said and I agree with you.
31:49 No heatsink for bridge rectifier?
One thing I would recommend to put a block of wood next to the wall. Concrete floor's and walls for some reason will pull the charge out of the batteries. We had brand new batteries go dead at a place I worked at before.
Thats wild! I will do some research in that. Thanks!
This is very true. I worked with lead acid batteries in the past. And we had a rule. Never store them on a concrete surface. They will lose their charge.
Thats true. The power seeps back to the earth over time. Insulation prevents this.
i like how you did this build overall... one thing i'd have done different;y... those DC switches being open backed against a sheet of metal on the board.... i'd have put a wide sheet of rubber (or insulation of equivalent) to protect against any potential for arcs due to the contacts being so close to the surface of your board backing.
The dc switches actually have a plastic back that separates them from the metal.
@@LandtoHouse ah.. didn't see that in the video... but glad to know they did come with some sort of safeguard included.
I think the amp clamp transformer sensor is to monitor power usage to give you information about generation/usage for graphing/reporting reasons. It might also be able to figure out if Grid is ON or if it needs to cut power for its brown-out detection.
😎. Man I love your videos, just great content!
That amp clamp reads the usage of the house so that the inverter does not feed more than the house needs. It prevents power from going to the grid.
@@LandtoHouse very peculiar. You sure that isn't just a bad English translation?
Nice setup and toys. Happy for you.
Will you be installing a cover over the rectifier? The voltage present makes me nervous for an accidentally placed hand or curious fingers at some point in the future
I might place a cover over that. It would need to be well vented.
@@LandtoHouse Even a piece of half pipe anchored down with a strip of perforated metal tape would work.
@@MarkRose1337 thats a fun idea. I will save a ram pump tank scrap and do just that.
Yes I would definitely make it child proof down there!
DC is dangerous high voltage.
AC gives you a chance to get away DC doesn't!
@@ronniepirtlejr2606 High Voltage AC is just as dangerous. And don't forget we are not talking about 50/60Hz here (not that it makes much difference).
I like the sheet metal as a heat shield in case some electronics get too hot, it will provide more time before the plywood smoulders....
Love your work. I would say that I wouldn't put my electronics next to the sewer clean out.
That Was A VERY GOOD VIDEO AS Are Your Other's & I'm Sharing Them With Our 3 sons & Some Friends , & It So Happends That We Have A Small Spring On Our Property, That I Think I Can Dam Up & Creat Enough Flow
??? 🙄 & It Does Run Year Around & There is A Real Good Size Pool / pond , But Not Much Drop Across Our Property Down To A Really Big Pond, So There is Hope There, Enough That I Think It Should Work 🙄🤣
20:36 It does matter, since the positive connector is slightly larger than the negative one.
Somebody else was saying that also. Thank you for the heads up. Definitely could become frustrating for someone trying to do it backwards.
Howdy from Caldwell county western N.C. I enjoy ya videos, wish I had a stream on my property !
Hello. Thanks for watching! The water was the main factor for buying this property.
Is using sheet metal as a backing for the electronics a standard practice? I understand the need for heat dissipation or protection, but the risk of shock also concerns me with that backing. But I don’t really know anything about installing electronics like this.
I was about to say that’s not great but if u like shocking the shut out of your self go for it
I think that the system is grounded through the ground of the outlet. I am not sure which of the electronics would shock?
Definitely ground the plate to be safe... edit: with an actual ground cable
I have installed a similar but simpler system, I have various systems in operation, this one I describe to you has a turgo turbine, a classic three-phase asynchronous motor used as an asynchronous alternator, self-excited by external capacitors in single-phase C2C configuration, direct at 230V, (European standard , I did not go direct in parallel to the grid because I had an approved inverter with all the protections according to the legislation for the parallel, otherwise it required me to purchase a homologated grid protection interface with lots of bureaucracy and cost tests, so I am safe ...) I have a safety load deviation system via relay in case of off-grid (the induction gererator controller cost too much for 1.2kw made in economy) I did it in single phase because I reused an existing power line from the turbine to the home, the electronic relay of maximum and minimum current (not voltage) takes care of diverting the turbine under an electric ballast resistance in case the 'inverter grid disconnects from the national grid for various reasons so as not to burn it when the turbine is runaway so it remains braked at the right voltage (measures the inverter grid output) is a very crude system, a classic IGC downstream of the shift derivation of the electrical load would be better, cmq has been working correctly for 10 years, from about 230V AC output under load I enter a rectifier bridge, downstream on the DC 450V 1500 microfarad polarized capacitor to stabilize better (I had 2 recovery from a large audio amplifier I put them in series so they are 900V DC and they will never explode even with the turbine running without load, I enter an approved solar grid inverter, where the DC of the panels enters at about 300V DC, the mppt of the solar inverter accepts maximum 650V DC and is variable with a technical password is useful for adapting the turbine to maximum efficiency at the correct speed, your inverter self modulates according to the consumption of the utilities in the house so as to never enter the grid, I do it downstream with a derivation system using like you a directional current transformer similar to yours on the main phase of the electricity meter (we only have one) the arduino is programmed to activate at variable pulses a TRIAC that diverts under an electrical resistance the excess production that would otherwise end up donated to the network, to heat the hot water first, then if the thermostat trips it in turn diverts into an electric oil radiator (robust, safe and reliable) nothing batteries, as long as the utilities absorb within about 1200W the meter marks zero as soon as it exceeds it begins to absorb only the difference missing from the turbine, when I absorb less heat the water or the environment and never put anything into the network despite being in parallel, ( 10 years never a problem)
Essentially a DC fuse is missing from the batteries, due to the power of the system that is the only danger especially for the Chinese grid inverter.
it's a great job, for someone who doesn't work, this is to be taken into account ...
Those computer type cables are normally not rated for 15 amps. Read the receptacle end and most are 10 AMP only rated. That means that the unit should not be used for greater than 10 Amps out and the breaker should also be rated at that. That would limit you to about 1200 Watts output. But as your turbine unit is only about 500 Watts rated, that is the max you should set the unit for. The Solar Panels can not be relied upon to make up the difference all the time ( like at night ).
One question i haven't seen asked. Where is the the safety disconnect switch to isolate your house from mains power when running on the hyrdro/solar.
Sorry for asking such a simple question but shouldn't the rectifier be located as close to the charge controller as possible? Aren't you just causing some loss by changing from AC to DC 20 feet away from the controller then running DC voltage through such small wiring? I'm sure they must be an explanation for it... thanks for helping me learn!
You are right. The issue was... that is where the 250 feet of 10/3 ran out. I am super happy that I got that far with the rectifier. It would have been better to take it right up to the breaker.
Common misconception. Voltage drop is the same for AC or DC. AC is just easier to convert to higher voltage via transformers
@@philip1091 Yes! That is why some power companies have very high voltage DC power lines that go for thousands of miles with only 2 converter stations.
DC is actually more efficient to transmit power through the same wire because DC doesn't have the skin effect which pushes the electrons to the outside of the wire when there is a strong magnetic field from the high current causing there to be very little current in the center of the wire and only current on the skin of the wire.
It's very expensive equipment to convert the AC to DC at high voltages and vice versa, which is why AC is used for power lines that need to supply power to thousands of buildings and lower the voltage at each one.
@@NSaw1 never heard that one before?
It's better to stick with A/C.
I thought that argument was pretty much settled with Tesla and Edison.
@@ronniepirtlejr2606 It was! So AC voltage can be stepped up with a transformer which is why power distribution uses AC so the voltage can be stepped up to a high voltage (for the lines in my area 13kv), if you raise the voltage the current will be lowered for the same amount of power to be going through the line, an example. If you are transmitting 12vAC at 12a that is 144w, if you use a transformer to step up the voltage to say 72vac then the current will be 2a but the power is the same at 144w.
Idk what the calculations are for line loss yet, but if you have a small wire for 12a its going to act like a heating element, like say a light bulb or a stove. It will start releasing heat which takes energy from the power being transmitted, which is a big inefficiency if the wire is to small.
What edison was planing and did was using dc that would be at ~110v ONLY so from the power plant to a house was one low voltage.
Just an example, If there was one line that powered 50 buildings, each used 200a (like in a high density city back then) That would be 10,000 amps at 110v! That is 110,000kw but if it were AC then the voltage can be stepped up to a much higher voltage say 9,000v that would be ~120 amps instead of 10,000a! So it wouldn't need anywhere neer as big wire. Then when at each bulding it can be stepped back down to 110v.
At the time there was no cost effective way to convert DC to AC and back.
But now with vacuum tubes and silicon it is much more cost effective to switch high voltage AC to DC and back. You should search HVDC transmission.
So with AC there is induction and capacitance, which over a long distance it will offset the timing of the sine wave which will create a small voltage drop at the other end, but there will also be a voltage difference between the start and end of the line, which will draw current even if there isn't any load on the end. That will heat the wire and waste energy. AC always uses power to energize a wire. And that current will always be there, even with a load on the end of the line. That current can't be used for transmitting power.
With DC tho there is no sine wave to mess with the timing of, so there's no voltage difference from one end to the other, so no current will flow. (DC doesn't use power to energize a wire) The overall current will be less, which means less heat and less power loss.
With AC it's changing magnetic field will push the electrons out from the center of the wire (called the skin effect) there will be more current flowing on the outside of the wire than the inside. That higher current will make heat and use power.
I hope this was understandable. I tried to keep it short as I could.
Sun 1000, best inverter run with battery :D
You should ground the metal plate and add a fuse right behind the battery, if there is a short, the energy from these batteries is immens.
A fuse between the battery and the cutoff switch going to the inverter?
Between the battery and both cutoff switches.
Wire clamps my friend. When you bring those lines into the boxes, put wire clamps on them.
This little plastic box would not hold a wire clamp. As for the midnite solar I think that it would fit a wire clamp.
@@LandtoHouse Better at least put some kind of sealer like silicone to keep the mice out.
@@LandtoHouse yes it will a bit tight but do able , make it safe an secure
If the metal edges are still sharp. I suggest corner guards to cover them up.
They are not to bad! A little sanding and its nice and smooth.
Many batteries posts are different sizes positive vs negative so post clamps aren't interchangeable. So don't accidentally buy 1 size.
Better put a cover over that rectifier mate:)
Thankyou for the information
Check out the new video update on this system. Much better.
since you have a midnite classic, you should watch the video on ac breakers and dc breakers...they are not the same
please, I implore you to watch the video from midnite and get different breakers so your house doesnt catch fire
If you are running short on water could you take the water after it exhaust out of your turbine and use 2 or 3 of your ram pumps to send water up to your barrel and reuse the water again and again ?
Couple of quick questions. Do you have a link for that cool little breaker box? I see the link for the breaker but not seeing the box on Amazon. Second, is it dirt under your plastic? Our camp is dirt under the plastic.
You should put a bms in there
Dude you're awesome 👌. I'm hooked
Thanks. Be sure to check the videos on the new power shed. Way better install.
Not sure if placing the electrical below the water pipe access pipe is a good idea.
It was the only place that I could fine that did not have active water lines above or have a outside vent in the wall.
@@LandtoHouse OK
Hey seth love the project but i would use a stranded wire like two pieces of welding cable to run from the diode bridge to the midnight dc amps dont like to travel over solid copper wires multi strand cable is better maybe some 8 or 6 awg welding cable ?
Very good Sri Lanka
DC breakers are different from AC breakers. You installed breakers after rectifier so that should be the DC ones.
I think it would be better to run multi-stranded (lots of fine copper wires) conductors from turbine to breaker/CC. DC travels on outside of conductor (not thru it like AC). Looks good.
The rectifier is close to the charge controller so AC is coming from the turbine. The solid wire should be good from there.
Question??
Why did you go from AC TO DC BACK TO AC?
For 2 reasons. 1. This ac is 3 phase at 200v. Needs to be converter to normal ac 60hz. 2. Battery storage. Can only store dc.
Best to use 6 volt golf cart deep cycle batteries for storage .they will be much better .
Take a look at Will Prowse’ channel. He makes the case that LiFePO4 is better cost/performance vs any lead chemistry when looking at all factors (DoD/cycles, capacity, lifetime, etc)
Using the metal plate behind all the components is a mistake. By all means add an extra heat sink to the charge controller and a separate one to the inverter, but they should NOT be near any connections. An alternative idea is to space any heat producing component out from the board about 1 inch to allow more air flow. Normal practice is to mount all the components directly to a hard wood board. The hard wood board holds all the components secure while providing an insulating barrier. Then all the components need to be connected together with a common ground wire.
Could this type of micro hydro power the whole house permanently?
I think it probably could if you changed the 12 volt battery's time to time
WE[[ RAM PUMPWORK WELL FOR LAWN WATER ? JUST A QUSTION
Any corrosion prevention for your batteries? Understandably you’ll be going under the house for your routine water filter cleaning and you can keep an eye on the batteries, just may be worth slapping a layer of Vaseline for prevention. Good work overall, I’m not a huge fan of doing electrical work, luckily my next door neighbor is an electrician :)
good job
All very good but those batteries !!! Why are you using car AGM batteries for renewable energy, a complete waste of money in my opinion (not robust enough) or is it just a stop gap ? You should get some wet lead acid - Rolls or Trojans etc. I am amazed that Langston did not suggest some more robust batteries. I love the way you have made the end of the penstock look like a RAM pump, excellent.
Cost was a major factor in battery choice. I'm just skimming off the top of these batteries so it's mostly just a stopping point
@@LandtoHouse OK I was worried that you thought you might be able to draw substantially on them for daily usage. I speak from experience , years ago I bought loads of car batteries and tried to run off grid, I quickly discovered the truth. and wasted a lot of money. Just skimming off the top 10% they should be grand., but still looking forward to seeing you with a good set so you could survive a decent power outage and cut wood with your own power.
How could the inverter be upside down?
fans pull the heat up through the box and out the top.
It wouldn't make sense for them to have the fans on the bottom blowing the heat down.
Most fans pull air through the bottom of the Box then the heat exits through the top with the fans. Unless they have their fans flipped around the wrong way?
What is the maximum voltage
If those are regular car battery terminals it does matter which one goes where they are not the same size
Oh really! Wow that is good to know. Well I am happy that I placed them in the right direction.
Sorry for the daft question, i'm just learning. Why do you need batteries? I thought they were needed for storage (say on a solar system where the supply is interrupted), but your supply is constant?
I also have installed solar to the same batteries. Also you can use way more power with batteries. With storage the batteries can give 1400w instead of 360w.
@@LandtoHouse Ok, thanks.
what about your overflow valve next to the wall board you installed? it would empty out all over your electronics
Dude, I know it's a 2 months old comment but I just wanted to say that I am glad to not be the only one that noticed this!
I see you got your rectifier close to charge controller :)
Is there a way to run the system without using a battery?
Like using 220v output generator, directly powering the house.
You can use these grid tie limiters directly to the house without battery.
plastic junction boxes dont rust as much as steel, cord grips, romex connectors, use real battery lugs , those are repair terminals
Curious about the batteries you are using. They seem normal car batteries. Why not use something better suited like Ni-Fe batteries that can be drained much deeper and last a lot longer?
The cost was the issue here. I will run these for a couple years and upgrade to nice batteries when these go.
Maybe it is not as important with hydro since you have 24/7 energy. With solar, you want a lot of usable capacity.
Can you charge lithium with the solar charger controller
Yes. I just filmed a video on my tiny house build where I charge a lifepo4 battery with mppt charge controller. Should post that next week.
Isn't your the power plug in upside down
It was! I now have that turned up correctly. I think in episode 9 it is up right.
We love widow maker cabels
Yes we do! Ha. The inverter is islanding. Once the grid is removed the unit is dead
nice
Good
It appears that you have not installed any over-current Protective device between battery bank and the inverter. There should be a suitably rated battery fuse or breaker between battery and inverter.
Q1:Was that forgotten, or an intended omission ?
Q2: Was that inverter intended by manufacturer to be a “Battery inverter” or a “PV inverter” ?
I ask because I wonder why you had to connect 5 pieces of 12volt batteries, instead of 4 pieces.
What does the manufacturer manual say about battery connections, and voltage ?
Currently all that I have is a cut off switch between the battery and the inverter. It was more of a "I dont know if I need this". The inverter is intended to be used with PV. It is working very well with the batteries. I went with the 60v system because it uses power better that way. Higher volts lower amps.
@@LandtoHouse the inverter is internally fused
I don't know if the question has been asked. If you figure a mechanical system to operate the water valve
That might be a fun test for the future. Currently I just go out and turn on or off a valve as needed.
What about the redundancy of the system being negatively effected by the need for a small battery in the charge controller? Seems like a weak link in your system. Everything else looks great.
I think the controller will work without that. There are versions of the midnite that do not have a front panel. But yes that would be an issue if the battery could not be obtained.
Should that be a GFCI outlet?
It probably could be.
are you going to add another controller for solar as 1 controller can not control both also they is a spercific controller for hydro/wind they are difernt to the solar controllers
Good question. Yes this controller is a midnite solar classic 200v and it is set to Hydro mode. The solar is going to use a midnite classic solar 200v SL. This version is cheaper and does not have internet connection. It will send power to the batteries the same and should be setup as a "follow me" to the hydro unit.
@@LandtoHouse that's good I did not know the solar ones also do wind hydro
The SL is solar only. The regular classic is all three.
@@LandtoHouse good to know cheers
We’re do you live brother ?
Western North Carolina.
Metal and elektricity, are you waiting for a disaster or what?
Ha ha ha .... You should go on youtube and take a crash course called "Power electronics" and "Solid State Physics". You learn that you can't connect ionic charged electrodes in series. You will need to stack the batteries in a vertical fashion and use a stepper voltage regulator which independently charges and discharged a chemical ionic electrode. Your generator issues are least of worries
An amazing video series (seriously), but what a bad theme song :D
Haha I rather like it.
Land to House The ram pump I bought from you a few months ago is working great. Got it hooked up directly to a soaker hose, and it’s plenty of back pressure for the pump even though the garden is only a few feet above the stream. We’re very pleased.
can't belive you have a plug top with live open terminals been used to back feed the mains into the receptacle.......... Dangerous...!!!!!!!!!!
No its excited by the grid. The inverter is 100% off without being plugged in.
Man, all those high current devices mounted on a metal plate. Also most of the devices are metal which are also touching the same plate. Just one loose wire away from energizing the whole thing and a catastrophe for anyone who touches any part of it...
New detached power shed is almost finished. All these things will be moved soon.
Anyone else concered that if he does not switch off the batterys before pulling the plug out the resepticle, he will have 2 live prongs dangling and a bit of wire.
I would swap the plug and recepticle for a solid wired switch
That inverter is Islanding. As soon as the grid power stops the inverter is powered down. Later I am going to install an inverter that is true off grid.
@@LandtoHouse Fair enough. Great video series btw 👍
solar panels and maybe small windturbine could be god idea, at least solar panel. do there where you live wind a lot and constantly, if yes small windturbine will be good idea only for that reason because they are interesting just like hydro power. if you have like just appropriate like wind speed not too fast or too slow and there wind often windturbine makes alot of electricity almost as good as water turbine and if you have both wind and water and then good batteries you have all electricity you need, and solar panels of cpurse if ypu have so bad luck that there is try and wind is breathless at same time you got your electricity from sun, tahat means you are allmost energy self-suficient and thats is very very good because greedy energy companies do not lover their prices self-sufficient is one o the best thing man/woman can have. then can show finger to energy companiens.:)
why didnt you relocate the rectifier to the metal heatsink?
The 250ft of cable from the turbine ran out, that’s why the rectifier is where it is. It would be better if it was as close as possible, but sometimes the situation doesn’t allow it
Dust76tr The wire he used the white stuff is the same correct why I needed to extend it. A few wire nuts will do the job just fine and reduce voltage drop
Michael Illingby the ‘white stuff’ wire (presuming you mean what he ran to the circuit breaker & the midnite) was only 2 core.
He could have possibly used the orange wire that he also used for the new sockets he added, to extend the run from the turbine, but not sure if that would be rated for 200V DC
Dust76tr if that’s the case then I was wrong to comment but I could’ve sworn he said it was a 3/10 or 10/3 I can’t remember what I heard him say. All my years as an electrician I have seen things that make me shake my head. Ps all wire doesn’t care between ac or dc. It is devices like switches and breakers that care. If you’re going to bring up SKIN then it doesn’t apply.
Michael Illingby sure, AC vs DC doesn’t really matter for the wire itself, and you’re absolutely right, the breaker would have to be rated sufficiently to be able to break a DC arc, which as you know, are a lot harder to break than an AC arc at the same current.
I just meant that the cable would need to be rated for at least 200V, which is what the turbine provides, open circuit.
So you got a rectifier wire and you're a poet and don't even know it🤭 don't worry though I'll help you show it❗🤣
Haha. Sounds like you are a better poet than I am.
@@LandtoHouse while I have your attention, I ask this once before in one of your other videos and did not get a response. About your ram pumps, I understand they require moving water to operate such as a stream or Creek. Unfortunately I do not have this luxury. However I do have an entire Lake Out My Backdoor. Lake of the Pines, in East Texas, perhaps you've heard of it? As you know, Lakes are standing bodies of water without much movement as compared to a river or stream. How would you suggest making standing water such as a lake become moving water to start a ram pump?
@@littlekingcobrasden4217 Would only work if you can run the pipe out on the lake so the end is always under water enough so it couldn't get air. Then it must slope down from the intake enough to have at least 2 or 3 foot drop to operate the pump. Has to slope down with out going up anywhere. If this is impossible the only chance is to dig a pit 3 feet or so deep to put the pump into to get the water drop required to feed the pump. You would need a place for the waste water from the pump to drain to like having a pipe going from the pit to a lower spot for it to drain away. Unlikely you could have a setup like that next to a lake unless you have a sea wall and a place to drain the water to. Best bet is to use an electric pump. You would probably would need some sort of filter to prevent sand or other stuff from entering the pipe in the lake. Wouldn't need to have the the feed drop as it went to the pump then. A shallow well pump would work or if you want to turn the pump on every time you use it most any small pump would work..
@@gordonwilloughby8793 thank you for explaining. I've been viewing his videos about the U siphons, and have been toying with experimenting using those with a 5 gallon bucket, or a 55 gallon drum, but at the moment money just doesn't permit me to experiment like this. I wasn't sure if maybe putting the kind of float valve he shows in one his videos on Amazon inside the five gallon bucket (or 55 gallon drum) along with the U siphon on the inside as well as possibly another one on the outside (or instead of the inside) as demonstrated in another of his videos, with a lid on the five gallon bucket (or 55 gallon drum) and weight the bucket/55 gallon drum such as a small brick inside the bucket/55 gallon drum so it wouldn't float, approximately 10 ft from Shore next to my private boat dock (this would act as the 3' pit you mentioned, but in the middle of the lake water) with a garden hose connected to the outside of the bucket, going to the shore line connecting to a ram pump if that would give me what I needed to get the water moving or not? (And yes, I also already thought about using one of the filters he mentioned in another one of his videos on the float valve intake) On average the deepest part of the lake in that general area is Maybe 4 foot? (I'm 5'11", and it gets about to my chest at the deepest point in that area, unless it's either flood or drought season) I have depending on the season/time of year between 1 to 4 ft of level dry ground at the shoreline.( Of course drought season my boat dock sits on dry ground with the nearest water 30 feet away or more🤣) once I find a way to get the initial water movement, I have approximately 100 yards uphill to get into my backyard across Corps of engineer land and approximately another 100 yards across my property to get it to a location where I can actually use the water which is partially uphill but levels off near the top 50 yards. I'm not sure the grade of fall from my back door to the waterline though. However in extreme flood season, I've gone fishing off my back porch such as Hurricane Katrina,(put the Water by my boat dock well over a hundred feet deep, almost covering some of the medium sized trees). but an average flood season brings the waterline right up to my property line. My goal is to eventually build a water tower consisting of four large liquid totes (I think they hold like 3,000 gallons each?) And then I'll use that water tower to filter and water animals and garden as well as an outdoor shower and possibly an odd house toilet,and an outdoor sink for cleaning fish and dressing other hunting game kill.
@@littlekingcobrasden4217 Siphoning the water into a bucket from the lake and running the pump inlet from the bucket to the pump will actually give you less drop from the bucket to the ram pump vs from the lake to ram pump reducing the lift capacity of the pump. It is all about the number of feet the water falls from the water level at the intake to the pump and the amount of height the pump is required to raise the water to determine if it will work. Running the pipe out further in the lake or having it further under water in the lake won't raise the lake level to gain water source height. From what you said it sounds like your only chance for the ram pump to work is when the lake is higher. When it is lower it will be lower than the ram pump can be. There is a way to figure out how many feet the pump can raise the water to the number of feet the water falls from the source to the pump. Saw it on one of the Land to house videos. If you have an altimeter you could measure the lake level from above the lake and compare the difference to the altitude where you are putting the ram pump to determine the amount of drop to the pump. The greater the drop the higher the pump will raise the water. A ram pump will pump water up approximately 7 foot for every 1 foot the water drops from the source to the pump. To figure out if the pump will raise the water high enough divide the number of vertical feet from the pump to where the water will be pumped by 7 to get the number of feet of drop required from the water source to the pump for the pump to work. Amount of water will be slower as height destination increases. I got this formula from land to house. Based on that a vertical lift of 300 feet would require a drop of 43 feet from the source to the pump.
Hi friend!! i to need all yours videos spanish languaje!!!! Is it possible? Or.. maybe you can come to spain to help to me??(this is better for me!!!) :)
hello. Sadly I do not know the Spanish language.
all in all how much please reply to my email add