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Installing the Turbine Micro Hydro 6/10
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- Опубликовано: 10 авг 2020
- I install the Langston Alternative Power Turbine into the housing and turn it on for the first time. There are a few things that I have to work out. There is a leak in the housing connection between the turbine and the bottom of the box. I also take the voltage to see what the DC value is after passing through the rectifier.
Check out these Micro Hydro Turbines from Langston Alternative Power:
www.langstonsal...
Did you miss an episode? Here they are in order:
1 Screen Intake
• Intake Screen Box Buil...
2 Barrel Intake
• Intake Barrel for Silt...
3 Penstock
• Installing the Penstoc...
4 Pressure Test
• Pressure Test and New ...
5 Turbine Housing
• Turbine Housing Build ...
6 Turbine Install
• Installing the Turbine...
7 Wire Run to the House
• Run the Wire to the Ho...
8 Install Electronics
• Install Electronics Mi...
9 Power on the Turbine
• Power up the Turbine M...
10 Full Overview
• Full System Overview M...
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Where is the water coming from?
ruclips.net/video/zPIec9VCrOY/видео.html
Watch the series from part 1.
How much watt generate
Between 50w and 300w depending on the rainfall.
Hey Bud! I think a drain box underneath might be better especially when you use all 4 jets. All the splashing can cause a problem with the jets etc. I’m assuming your sending DC voltage to the house and if nobody has mentioned it yet you don’t have to take those losses. Rule of thumb is always make your long runs with AC voltage, the losses are very small. Even if you cheat and use the ground wire as the third phase it better than a DC voltage run. 12 gauge 3 conductor would work just fine for your situation then install the rectifier next to the controller. Voila!, no DC loss. If you watch Joe Malovich he used extension cord wire from the hydro to the rectifier in the house. It’s looking great so far, keep it up. Best of luck!
That turbine box will likely need a nice overhaul at some point. It has been great to get get an initial test but it seems to have a few issues with passing the water. Will be great content for the future. The voltage test that I ran in this video was just to show that the turbine is working. I use 10/3 wire to the house and then rectifier. That video is next!
Land to House have you thought about building a concrete gutter? Just a large concrete box leading to a gutter to give it lots of breathing room. Nothing massive, just simple and sensible.
Do you need a specific amount of water to have a system like this? And what if i have a lil river being my house can i install it just like this one?
can I ask you questions Bill?
@@davycoolboy4775 The amount you need depends on how high it's coming from. The higher the drop, the less water you need. Also, keep in mind that there are a lot of different turbine designs out there, what's good for low flow high drop won't necessarily be good for short drop high flow.
When you said you should of used a more rigid metal. But the aluminum was what you had. I smiled thinking of all the projects I have done using just what I had. It’s a frontier mentality. This kind of thinking is invaluable on a homestead. I just built a 5000 watt solar generator with 1200 watts of solar panels. I wish I had a source of water to add a hydro turbine to the system. I’m building a wind turbine from salvaged components to power my shed and chicken coop also. Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
I am liking your build. I am planning the same size project here in Chile on our little homestead to supplement our 10KW off grid system. Love the good advice and sourcing. Jim in Chile
I am really enjoying this series Seth! Thank you so much for taking the time to share this project with everyone. I would like to make one small suggestion. You have a beautiful turbine. What a fine piece of machinery. But please, please, build it a housing worthy of its beauty. Maybe that is part of your plan, in which case, kindly disregard my suggestion. I think you should consider a concrete structure. I admit I do a lot of work in my shop with leftover lumber and such, so I am speaking to myself. But that is like a Lamborghini parked in a shed. Again, I am learning a lot. Thank you again. Close to the end, now. This is so impressive, even with on jet open.
Sometimes I have these ideas in my head that look way better than when I finish them. This box is one of those. It woks really well but could use some improvements. And it does not look very good. I will have to revisit this box later. One nice thing is the foam. That has really reduced the sound.
The box is acting like a speaker. If you mount it to a block of concrete or slab. Your foam is working well. You should run the AC to the house and put your rectifier close to the batteries. You'll have less voltage drop with the AC over the longer wire run than with DC on the long run, also you can use smaller wire with the AC.
I agree as ac is just like a tide where it pushes and pulls on a few electrons rather than trying to shove a bunch with pressure were the efficiency is less and while there is sag with wires it would be less prevalent with ac over dc
Actually HVDC has less losses than HVAC over distance, but I'm not sure he's dealing with what is to be considered HV or not. If not it doesn't really matter.
AC is only better because of the associated higher voltage. If the 3 to 2 wire converter is only diodes (no transformer), then the efficiency won't change by moving the converter closer/farther.
@@anti-cmos1349 Nope, it isn't HVAC and if rectified, it would not be HVDC. Even playing with the Smartdrive motors you still aren't in HVAC ranges. HVAC is in the range of 1KV and higher in most of the world. In the US, we don't consider anything under 100KV to be HVAC when it comes to grid power. For DC it is 1.5KV or better to be considered HVDC in most of the world. The US has had DC Voltages in the 3000VDC range on catenary wires feeding our trains for decades so again, we have higher levels before considering it HVDC.
Fascinating, and yeah the pelton wheel is probably slowing down when the chamber becomes flooded and the wheel is completely immersed.
Nice job looks great, my system is not to far from yours, i run three jets and found my 4" outlet just couldn't remove the amount of water from the box especially when free wheeling, a second 4" pipe was added and it now works well, i look forward to your next videos.
Take care and have fun
john
I've been wondering about the differences in efficiency of Pelton vs Turgo wheels for this. It looks to me like the Pelton is affected by turbulence in the chamber where as Turgo is less. I think a Turgo would exhaust better through the same pipe.
I have never been so excited to watch a series like yours. Thanks
Thank you! That means a lot! There is an off grid system coming up next.
@@LandtoHouse can you share micro hydro turbine technical detail and you can share me micro hydro turbine product for my further endeavour
Love this series. One suggestion: run your three phase to the house rather than the Rectified DC. There is so much loss with long runs of wire with DC. You could always add a three phase transformer prior to the rectifier to make up for the voltage loss at the house.
Yes, definitely! Run the longest distance AC. Much less power loss in the cables!
Not a bad idea, but some clarification: It's not AC vs. DC that matters, it's the voltage and current that matter. Large currents require very thick copper wires to maintain small losses. For a given power, if you step up the voltage, you lower the current, and that lowers the losses.
AC historically was better for long runs because you could use transformers to easily step the voltage up (so current is low for transmission and down for usage. In comparison, it's generally harder to step DC voltage up and down. For example, there are 1 billion volt DC transmission lines in China!
If Land to House could get ahold of two 3-phase power transformers, he could step the voltage up for transmission, and then back down for reception. However, this also assumes that the turbine is going to spin at a constant frequency. Power transformers generally can only operate well at a fixed frequency.
I think Land to House is really doing the best they can here. Convert straight to DC and just eat the loss. They could go for a thicker wire, but that might cost too much to be worth it.
Brett My understanding was that low and medium voltage DC has a much higher voltage drop per foot than AC. It’s only when you get to the high voltage DC that changes due to specialized math and physics I do not understand. As for the fixed frequency issue. I could be wrong but as the frequency and voltage of the generator are directly proportional shouldn’t the risk of core saturation be negligible? Mathematically speaking, based on my understanding, as long as both your step up and step down transformers maximum voltage and maximum frequency ratings do not exceed the transformers rating you should be fine.
@@Veritas-invenitur Actually, it's the opposite: AC has higher losses per foot of wire due to eddy currents and the skin effect (and even radiation!). At low frequencies (like those used in power transmission or in this video), those effects are negligible, so for the same cable, at the same voltage and current, power transferred using AC or DC has identical losses.
Power transformers have a design frequency. If you operate them at lower than design frequency, there won't be enough impedance on the input windings and you will draw too much current, heating up the windings (and destroy them depending on how far off design you go). If you operated at above the design frequency, the primary will have too much impedance and you won't be able to get as much power through the transformer (there's also eddy losses, skin losses, etc).
Yes, if the frequency goes up with the voltage, core saturation in the transformer might not be an issue, but core saturation isn't the only problem as stated above.
ashtonsethreimer I just finished my refresher research on the subject and I have come to 2 conclusions. #1 you are right about DC vs AC voltage drop, I forgot about power factor and cross sectional area coming into play. #2 I need to reread the text more often before I speak. Back to the frequency issue. Considering the frequency variations will always be on the high frequency side why wouldn’t a 50/60 hertz transformer work? If anything wouldn’t the higher frequency’s increase efficiency?
My 15 year Harris Hydro experience has all been with just two nozzles, but they are 7/16" each in peak water times, when I produce 876 watts (33.7 amps @ 26 VDC). 147' of all, thru 3' line in 1/4 mile, it runs at about 60 PSI dynamic.
As others have mentioned, it's best to run the three phase up to the house and install the rectifier there just ahead of your charge controller. AC at a higher frequency and higher voltage will suffer less loss over the resistance of the long wire run.
Now, as to measurement.. The unloaded voltage is kind of useless data. Once it's under load, a measurement of voltage AND amperage downstream of the rectifier will allow you to calculate the actual working power it's producing in watts. Ohms law, Watts = amps times volts. Those measurements should be taken at the output of the charge controller when the batteries are low so it's dumping as much as possible into the batts. You could also measure between the rectifier and charge controller to get a sense of power loss through the charge controller. (it's circuitry will eat a small amount of power.)
You'll probably want to mount that rectifier on a heat sink too. It's going to get warm once a load is drawing power.
Yes Rectifier is on the other side of the wire run.
The open circuit voltage is important when the charge controller can only handle 200v max. We got close but made it!
You can increase the wire size running from the generator to the point of use. That will eliminate a lot of the voltage drop over a long distance. You could also use a line reactor or buck boost transformer to cushion the voltage.
wrong answer.....the energy is better transported in AC , not in dc, so, better install 3 small wire cable to the house.....that is why smart people use 220v instead of 120v.....copper is very expensive.....
Just came across your video on this turbine setup. I'm pretty impressed with it. Going to go back and look at some of the other videos on your whole installation of this turn my system that you set up. Thank you for sharing. We hit the like button and we added you as well.
Thank you for watching. There are several hydro install videos on the channel.
King starboard in black or white...we use it a lot in the boating industry...it comes in several thickness...great project!
Splendid! Looking forward to seeing the completed product hooked up and using the power.
I'd love to see you use a ram pump to move some of the waste water back up into the intake. Would also be useful in more dry seasons too
It would be interesting. The head pressure is 163 feet from the intake to the turbine over 1100 feet. Now the creek does have a spring just down from the intake that I could gain an extra 1gpm with ram pump.
Cam, I just so this video and I posted the same thought "waste water back up into intake. It makes sense and would make a self-sustaining system. You would have a system that only needs a specific amount of water that feeds back to the turbine.
This Micro Hydro is a brilliant system and should be implemented in rural country AND cities. WE need to be self-sustaining people and not dependent. AWESOME!!!!
Well done,
Might try a 4" 45° into a 4" Tee.. back of Tee reduced to 3" a 90° up & 90°, 90° (keeps debris out) for vent.. 4" side of Tee (front) is drain.. you can always make front foam a little taller to add more airflow if box is to airtight.. others have already mentioned a/c to house then d/c to batt, you can do that in 1/2-3/4" pvc & trace if burying..
Can't wait to see finished product and load test..
Be Safe
Discrà Dr cd do rn
Xàrà tree ddaredrtree
Quarter
Very interesting series. I cannot wait to see the final outcome.
That turbine looks pretty well - addressig the noise: your wooden box works like an amplifier, set the turbine on a piece of rubber (available in 60x60cm/2x2ft. to dampen washing machines and dryers) and put dampening foam all around the inside walls and roof. If you think about bolting it down to the box, again use rubber around the bolts to decouple them against structure-borne noise. Regards from Germany.
to solve the problem with the water, open the bottom of the wood box the same size of the opening at the bottom of the turbine, then funnel it down to 3" using reduction couplings. this way you will be collecting all the water to the pipe and avoid any problem caused by the water in the box
Good idea. I think that I am going to redesign with PVC trim boards. Make the bottom of the box 9" x 9" like you mention so that the water will drain without obstruction.
pretty much exactly what I was thinking because if the water cant drain then you would also be losing power due to water remaining in the housing and slowing down the turbine
I think you should put a wheel to the pump switch. This will make it easier for you while opening it.
Well done, really good🌺🌸
That's delicious, am imagining how cool if you hook the rectifier to the charge controller to a battery, can't wait for the outcome man!
The next two videos will give you the answer on that. it's pretty great.
7:03 Lil beetle go: "Too much water here, gonna hide in that box now!"
water wind fire combined. Ram pump wind and solar. Gas as backup. Never run out of power
CAPTAIN PLANET!!!
Something to consider is using a larger drain pipe, like 4 or 6 inches. The drain needs to flow and the pipe you are using is creating the issues you've described. If you still want you to use that same drain pipe you may want to consider adding a Y Pipe very close to the box then secure it to the box, 90 degree facing up, then add a 2 foot extension to vent the pipe; or however high you can get without interfering with the cover. Maybe even a Tee at the top just below the box cover to allow options for air to vent the pipe. You really don't need a bottom on the unit at all but it will keep animals from nesting there so that is something to consider. Might make sense that 2" feed and 2" exit will just work and most times you'd be right, but this item is different and does not align with the typical laws of Plumbing so one must be able to think outside the proverbial box for solutions. When you test ran the unit it did not vapor lock but as soon as you added the bottom you started having issues. Obviously I'm watching the video or in short on the outside of the fishbowl looking in while you are on the inside of the fishbowl, making said video, and may not see things as clearly as others might. I hope this helps you or perhaps another viewer... Cheers...
Yes, I'd probably go with a plastic catch basin and a somewhat larger outlet pipe than is going in. A clean out for the pipe is probably not a bad idea, although if it's running above ground like that, you could probably just disconnect the pipe if it needs to be cleaned out.
God bless these ppl who committed to protect mother nature ❤️🌱🌏🌎🌍
I never intended to make my own diy power station thingie but i still watched the videos
Thank you for watching! I hope it was worth the time ! :)
Yeah this is me. I'll never build a ram pump or generate off grid power or be self sufficient, but it's damn cool to see someone else do it
You have so many cool toys! Wish I could come over and try some of my ideas!
And most people that have their turbine setups ventilated so it doesn't overheat. so so much for keeping an airtight and the bugs out.
Mine is airtight but also buried with lots of volume in the pit.
Gr8 project. For much better noise absorption use acoustic foam. I used it on my stand by generator
Foam isn't waterproof but it is plastic so recommended to cut by heat or where you can vacuum it up. Few egg crates in there would dampen the sound even more if needed.
That vacuum effect can most likely be solved by an air vent through the blue foam.
Just a thought :)
I would put a tee under the box instead of a 90. And on the other side of the tee make it a vent line above the box so you don't have the suction
I was just thinking that myself. It would prevent the turbine from slowing down and might prevent the water backing up into the box as well. It wouldn't hurt to install a drain in the box so any water that does escape can be drained away rather than filling the box. If something were to go wrong with the motor, then the box would fill quickly and possibly short the electrics.
It's not suction, it's back-pressure causing the problem. If water backs up into the housing of the turbine, surrounding the turbine, it will drag it down. Increase the down angle of the drain line so it doesn't fill up. Too shallow of an angle and gravity can't pull the water away fast enough causing the pipe to fill up.
If you actually had a vacuum in the drain pipe, it would lower the atmospheric pressure in the turbine housing and increase the inlet flow, increasing the turbines output.
A Tee and a drain in the bottom of the box wouldn't hurt, just for good measure and only cost a few bucks.
Kevin Loughin is right though, it's not a vacuum because that would suck more water through the input causing a spike.
When he walked away from the housing after the foam was installed, it appeared to me the outlet pipe had a small upward curve, restricting the flow? Could be just the camera. I would also double up on the outlet pipe (2x 3" runs) so there will never be a capacity problem on the outflow.
2” pipe @70psi. You are going to make everyone jealous.
Have read a lot of the comments but didn't notice if anyone had mentioned that maybe putting the wires from the turbine through some flexible tubing would keep the mice from chewing on them. The biggest problem will be how to attach it at the turbine housing. This would work even with your new and improved containment box.
In most generation installations, have a larger generation room, which can be better to insulate and in your situation, the generator could overheat in its confinement, also a risk that the box could flood.
Sealing the edges of the shroud to the wooden box isn’t likely to help much no matter how well you seal it. The shroud needs to be able to drain fully as fast as the water is entering it or else it’s going to fill the area inside it with water and strangle the turbine and water jets. I suspect it would be better to cut a square hole in the bottom if the wooden box the same size as the metal shroud of the turbine, and let it drain into an open channel underneath instead of a pipe, or use a much bigger pipe.
I make these suggestions as though I’m an expert, but I have no experience with these systems so feel free to correct me 🤷♀️
У меня вопрос, а где лучше преображать AC в DC от генератора, около турбины или около потребителя? Какой ток лучше передавать, переменный или постоянный на большие растояния?
i find it very neat how great analogy water physics is to electrical physics.
Valve just open a little, Water pressure high but water flow low = high voltage but low amperage and low effect/watt
Valve open maximum, Water pressure drops a lot but maximum water flow = low voltage but maximum amperage and low effect/watt
Valve open "just right", Water pressure drops just enough to provide optimal water flow = High voltage and high amperage and good effect/watt. Works exactly like an solar mppt controller. The controller adjust the voltage/amperage ratio for maximum efficiency from solarpanels
Really interesting video. Thanks
I would have liked to have seen the bottom.
Would love to do a website with all these different products to help get the word out sis amazing stuff love it thank you for your videos
Está genial.
Al pasar el agua por los inyectores el agua debe ser siempre limpia, se puede producir una obstrucción por suciedad o tiene filtros?
I'm seeing a trend. People start researching this beast called "Hydro" and end up becoming rather obsessed with it. Is that about right, Seth?
It worked that way for me haha. Micro hydro power has been a long time dream of mine. I also watched many RUclips videos on the topic before giving it a try.
Awesome set up! More than anyone needs!
Thanks for watching!
You got the sound of the rain masking the sound of the turbo.
I love these kinds of equipment!
Me too.
E Amigo, na gravação percebemos que o ruído do sistema é alto, e não sei se isso perturbaria o lugar aonde foi instalado, mas dá pra fazer um isolamento acústico de baixo custo com materiais certos para a frequência do ruído, abafando de forma quase inaldivel.
Aí sim teria algo maravilhoso sem incomodar com o ruído que antes não existia
I have a small stream running through my lower property about 80 feet away. There is a culvert pipe, about 30 inches that allows the water to travel underground for about 50 feet, and then there is a drop of about 15 feet. The stream runs all year. I’m guessing but I’d say it flows about 10 gallons a minute most of the time. In August and July, it may slow down to two or 3 gallons a minute, but I’ve been here 35 years and I’ve never seen it dry..
I am a retired electrician from the local electric company after 38 years. I am very curious about this system. I considered putting some solar panels on my roof, but my roof faces about 30° south east on one side and about 30°to the north east on the other side.. not only that, but I live in a valley with very high trees along the ridges. In the summer, the sun does not come up high enough to clear the trees until about 10 AM, and the sun goes behind the trees on the opposite ridge about 6 PM..so solar would not benefit me to the max...
I did work in the field for a few years dealing with meters. I was often sent out to check out a meter that could possibly have not been registering. It turned out that the people had solar panels. When I was entering data into their record, I noticed that The electric company actually paid them over the last year. Two in particular, one had a swimming pool with a heater and a 3 ton air conditioning unit. I don’t know if their house was gas or electric heat but, over the year, we paid them $600 for the energy they put into the grid with their solar panels,And they pay nothing over that year to the electric company for power delivered to their home. They delivered more power to the electric grid than they consumed from the electric grid that year.Another house on the same street, same story, we paid them $50 over the previous year because they had been backfeeding excess generated power by their solar panels back into the grid..They both lived on the top of a hill with sun exposure most of the day.
that stream running through my property runs 24/7 /365...tapping into the stream,That would be a more feasible system due to my shaded location.
Thanks for uploading this video.
In your next video could you please put load on it & see how it runs. Also show the intake of water into turbine.
Subscribed way cool project, like that your trying to get the used water back to the creek
There are many things I would have done differently for sure (and have done differently with my turbine). Good to see it spinning though.
I would love to hear those things. You have the experience and understanding!
Hey Joe i know you'd go with a circular pipes to the valves say it man!
@@LandtoHouse I was thinking to cut a square hole in the bottom of the box just big enough to set the turbine in and build a tray larger than the square to catch the water but swedge it down to your 3"or4" what ever size your drain is. just a thought. Good video! Thanks for sharing! God Bless!
I think that's not suction but your tailstock backing up filling the turbine space and the wheel is running in water. That's drag on your system. Pelton wheels are intended for a horizontal axis. A turgo wheel can run vertical or horizontal axis. Either wheel depends on the water escaping out the bottom and not interfering with the rotation. To get maximum power your wheel should run at half the velocity of the water. There should be a flange around the bottom of the housing that you can attach a flange to that extends below your box floor. That should keep the water out of your box. I'd suggest on open flume to move the water away. A pipe will fill up and back into the turbine.
This is the sound of FREEDOM.
Oh my God, this is transcendently cool. Off grid power 💘 💕 ❤
Made with on grid products. Lol
How did you fix the vacuum problem you said was happening when you installed the blue foam on the bottom?
That is a super cool unit. Not to be critical as an asshole but 15ft. from your creek will cause untold damage. I would think you might have figured that out by now since its 6 months later at this point. I have a pond with a 4 in. overflow pipe, no pressure at all, and it has put a 2 ft. hole in the creekbed it runs into. Water where water usually isn't can be devastating. Especially in forestland where things are much more fragile than they look. I hope it turned out ok. I wish I had one of those units. I would probably cut off a bucket and fit a 4 in. pipe to the bottom to drain and still drill a couple good sized holes toward the top in case of overflow, with a couple holes in the housing floor and screen on the bottom side to keep rodents out. Maybe a bit taller housing also.
When you run wire from your generator going to your house, don't rectify it, you will have a bigger power loss running long wire in DC. AC is better in transmission since it has small power loss.
Please continue watching the series and you'll see that I run AC to the house
@@LandtoHouse AC has inductive and resistive losses, where DC has only resistive loss in the transmission lines and is more efficient. The reason that we use AC in the grid is because its easy to use a transformer to boost or lower the voltage (higher voltage, less ampes less loss). Now a days long transmission lines, use DC. With switching power regulators.
For this application, calculate the max current you will generate. And use that to calculate your losses and select a suitable wire size.
Electrical part should be separated from the hydraulic side. If a pipe leaks, a short circuit can occur and the generator would be defective.
The electrical part should be at least IP 67.
A short circuit could also injure people.
Electronics and artwork are commonly shipped in Eggcrate Soundproofing Foam. Maybe you could call and ask for discards to reduce decibels. "Pinky filter pads" can double as water filtration and acoustic absorbent material.
I also worry if the housing will stay cool enough. Is the water running through the pump cold enough to keep it from overheating when the housing is closed?
I am really enjoying this series. -KJ
I think I would install a second turbine and Y or T them off so I would always have power going to the house and be able to do maintenance on a turbine. Build a block shed to hold it all and stay out of the weather and keep maintenance parts on hand.
yeah looks like you need to open the bottom fully maybe have a old water tank under that then links to the white pipe then drains back into the creek maybe even free pipe side by side if flow is to great for 1 or 2 pipes also you drain pipe is going up hill at moment maybe a stand pipe as the pipe come out from under the housing add a t with a stand pipe so it will pull air there rather then ay turbine exit
Para aumentar más la eficiencia, deberías de enviar la electricidad en alterna hasta la placa de diodos o rectificador dentro de la casas,
This is a commendable project.
You need to put a stack into the chamber the water drops into. This will get rid.of.the vacuum issue. Basic plumbing.
Why didn’t you do all this testing with all the jets open?
Wouldn't having 2 nozzles open (on opposite sides) reduce wear on the turbine bearings? It would seem that just 1 nozzle would put pressure on one side of the turbine. I'd think equal pressure on opposite sides of the turbine would equalize wear and extend the life of the turbine.
I had the same question. Langston says the pressure from this water is not enough to be an issue with this pma.
That would heavily depend on what type of bearings used
Great video. I love the sound when you slowly open the valve at the beginning of the video
i was going to mention it last video but forgot the you have mounted the turbine is not the best in my opinion, have a lip all arround the edge of the outer case is a bad idea for water flow, the centrifugal force will throw water to the edges and fall out , that lip will significantly stop water draining out the unit and possible to a point it slows down the turbine and you lose power. im surprised it dosnt have external brackets to fit it, which would be a better solution , drilling into the case of the turbine and fitting right angle brackets to suspend the unit in the box would be alot better.and a small screw protrusion inside the the housing as long as the turbine doesnt hit it will be so much better, this lip of the wooden box is also the cause of the water getting in because your slowing down the watyer with the lip and the water backing up on it is forcing it into the into the box,, and the 3 inch drain i dont think is enough. you need as much no pressure open flow as possible to get that water out of the way of the turbine fast , any water that stays in there will slow it down losing you power
This box will need a redesign. There is likely some slowing of the turbine due to water getting in the way. I like the idea of placing a catch pan under the turbine.
@@LandtoHouse yes that's a goo idea after the water has fallen away from the turbine it didn't matter what happs to it. A box under the turbin to catch the water to slow it and collect it and a 3 inch pipe to drain it. The idea you had right right but just needs more space under the unit for water to fall away and no lip around the edge. You would only need say 12 inches under the turbin to allow the water to move away enough. If you still get vacuum pressure in the drain pipe drill done holes in the top of the pipe to allow air to flow. 1/2 inch hole should work and being at the top I don't beleive water will flow out of them. If it does there's to much pressure in the pipe and you need to go bigger. Or have more than one pipe
Drill a small hole at the top of the drain pipe and use a air line check valve to prevent vacume.
I'm totally going to do on this with the Creek in my backyard ! Electricity and water, what could possibly go wrong?
sir iam watching your videos from India and you really did it..awsome🤭🤭🤭
can i insatall in my home
your determination is paying off
Yes it has been running for some time now. Working great!
I didn’t read through all the comments, but you can run AC voltages up to 100 feet before any corrections in wire size for voltage drop. Cant you carry the current in AC to where you intend to charge a battery bank where it can be rectified to DC? Depending on the load current at the other end, you may need some heavy gauge expensive wire for a DC run that far. That’s a cool as heck system!
and utilize your effluent. Aquaponics pond feed. Let the water flow without any restriction.
you could also put in a drain vent like in a house if you have vac issues still
So can this power 4,000 sq ft house 24/7 or do i need a bigger turbine?
Am curious as to why no one has tried putting a few of these units inline between 275 gallon totes and adding a sump pump to recirculate water to overhead totes. Basically making a self contained hydro-elictric plant that syhons off a portion of the power all the time to recharge battery banks or capicator banks and battery banks and running invertors off of those. Only having to add water in the event of leaking. The base to the turbines could be funneled back into bottom totes that interconnect and pump back to top tanks via combination plumbing. Just an thought.
I like your commercial at the beginning of the video!
The ad? I actually do not have control of the youtube ads.
@@LandtoHouse I see.
Why this turbine box doesn’t have a bottom??? It should have than you shouldn’t have any problems …
If it had a bottom then the water would flood it out. The water has to go somewhere
3" outflow pipe isn't large enough for your drainage requirements/volume. ++ Add a pipe vent to prevent any vacuums.
I will have to do that!
Love this series, keep it up!
Thank you for watching. Episodes 7 , 8, 9 and 10 are my favorite
Very good. thank you so much fo sharing your idea.
you need way bigger outflow.
you also need a load to slow that thing down before you overspeed it.
The full spin up with load is in part 9.
У этой турбины 4 водных крана, а как Вы подбираете напор на каждом сопле? Ведь в начале трубы(первое сопло) и в конце(на последнем сопле) напор воды будет разный
I’m very interested in if this can work on a pool water pump to off set the cost of running my pool filter system! My pump runs 62 gallons a minute they tell me at the pool store with 20 to 30 psi on the filter.
Restricting the output of the pool's pump to nozzles will cause the pump to run much less efficiently and increase the cost to run the pump by more than you could recover.
@@jllaine well I have three return lines to pool at 1/2 . So if I was to reduce them down and add a forth line with 2 x 1/4 to drive the hydroelectric. Wouldn’t that offset the high back pressure to the pump?
@@jllaine thx you for your reply on this 👍
@@rimc4378 not really. If the pump is feeding 4 lines, and only one line is restricted by a nozzle, it would be like having a 1" leak in the pipe just before the nozzle. You'd get very little water through the nozzle to run the wheel.
Don't run DC over long distances. Run the 3 phases and rectify it at the other end
A few 100m is not a long distance.
Keep watching the series. I use 3 phase for 250 feet.
Oh I watch heaps of your content. I live in the suburbs and will probably do anything like what you have done in any of your videos, but it's all still very cool.
@@Jiyukan for low voltage DC it is. 3m is significant for low voltage.
If you feed 12v into a 1A load over 100m, it's probably only going to be 6 at the other side depending on the conductor. High voltage, AC, goes long distances. That's why our power grid uses AC and transformers. It's also why we use 48v AC for PoE to power 12v devices a long distance away. If it's 42v at the other end, we can still regulate it down to the 12v we need no problem. And the current at 48v is only 250mA to produce 12V at 1A (assuming 100% efficiency. So really it's probably 300mA). That means our conductors can effectively be 1/3 the thickness. And that's with DC. With AC it can be even thinner again. That means a lot more power over a lot longer distance without the significant transmission losses you would get with DC. AC makes sense over distance.
@@LandtoHouse I did actually watch one of your videos where a guy had a dam in his backyard and ran AC to his house and recitifed it at the other end. I still can't get over the idea if having a dam in your backyard lol
I would do away with the ball valve and run a gate valve, you would have less water hammer during shut off and a more gradual shut off.
What you say is true, Gate Valves can lesson water hammer, but might not be as practical in this application. Gate Vales are typically far more expensive and sometimes just simply won't last as long and they tend to clog or at the very least are able to clog unlike Ball Valves. I don't know how often he'd be turning this unit off or off but over time Gate Vales will clog. Just offering an alternate opinion... Cheers...
19:25 Look at your screwdriver shaking. If that falls in that could really ruin your day/wallet/whatever the sparks land on, on a dry day.
luckily no issues!
you need to put a fanel and large tubing extraction
there must be zero resistance for the water output
the Turbine looks more than great
If you run the turbo with only one or two jets, is there a possibility that you might warp the bushing on the hydro shaft? If you run all four it will balance the force on the bushing.
I spoke to Spencer about this and he says there is no way the water and pressure that I have is going to warp the shaft or wear the bearings out faster.
You could always use jets on opposite sides of the turbine to counter balance.
man your channel makes me wish i had a creek, and a hill. I have so much going thru my head now and no way to test any ideas.
If you had a valute that kept the flow tight to the blades there would be more efficient flow without cavitation or vortex flow loss.
Keep the turbine then at just below water level but the output at. The lowest point possible so the water causes as negative pressure pulling the turbine blades rather than flooding the unit.
3/4" pipe carries 7 1/2 pound of negative pressure per 10' of drop with a straight vertical drop. ( use as little elbows as possible, they have the effect of 25' of pipe in static pressure per 90°ell.
A large pipe creates more negative pressure to drive but you cannot have a pipe larger than the input unless you set the input about 3' below the water line at the input.
The vallute will keep the blades moving efficiently as long as you dont pull air and your piping isnt too large.
(You can find hydronic equations online for pump sizing according to flow rate and backward figure your pipe size from what you already have purchased).
Tell your turbine "expert he shoulda consulted a boilerman before designing that highly inefficient turbine box.
Use common sense and exercise your research abilities online to find your best alternatives to problems rather than doing trial and error that cost bundles of bucks.
As I said, you dont want pressure into the pump, but tighten the tolerances in the turbine and use the negative pressure to pull the turbine.
That eliminates all the flooding problems and leaks.
(Common sense).
Why not bring it into the house as AC power then bridge rectify it to DC to charge battery banks?Seems like there would be a lot of voltage drop as DC
In the next video you see where the rectifier is installed. It is in the house close to the batteries.
I cant believe you responded!
@@kylefleetwood9572 Great last name.
@@MrDemolitionmission great to see im not alone with it
Also you should form some type of pond where you could contain the draining water, and some how feed back into water source to avoid flooding.
Yes, this is correct. A retention pond should help to manage erosion, and if you feed the water back into the original stream, there won't ever be more water flowing through it than normal. Potentially, the water could be captured for
Definitivamente é o projeto mais bacana, bonito e que velocidade obtida, incrível
Parabéns pelo feito Amigo
I have to say that checking voltage as what I saw here is pretty much meaning less. The turbine is running in NO load and it will spin fast. Once the turbine is connected to a charge controller or regulator and battery bank it will slow down and the voltage will either be at or just above nominal battery voltage. The jets will have to be adjusted to maintain charging Voltage level .
The reason for checking voltage here is the limits of the charge controller. My midnite 200v unit actually had issues accepting the voltage at times. Had to upgrade to a 250v !
@@LandtoHouse I can go along with that. I would have thought there would be a recommendation for that with the turbine. I built a wind turbine using an older Larger Ford alternator from a 6.9 L diesel once. I rewound the stator and filled it to capacity with 18 g enameled wire. Then I proceeded to construct a circuit to switch off 1 to phases at particular RPM. I did the same thing at first to test the peak Vout. Then chose electronic components for the circuit board. One of the biggest issues with a project like this is preventing the destruction of your circuitry is just what you are talking about here. Sorry for not picking up on that and bringing that point to the conversation. I should have been more on point. I found my peak Vout to be around 65V. I never got the rpm any higher as the efficiency of the props didn't allow it and I wasn't able to drive the rotor any faster with a power drill. I also had experience with one Midnite Solar MPPT charge control I used in a Solar/Wind power setup some time back, I fail to recall the model, it was a 30 amp unit I think . I like the way it converted extra voltage in to higher amp out at lower light levels. The turbine also had MPPT that did the same thing. I wired the panels at 48v and programmed the Midnite accordingly. I have always wanted to build a small hydro system for myself but since I don't have a suitable location or source of water flow, it doesn't look like this will ever happen. One thing I learned with factory built turbines was that when wound with very light G wire, under extreme conditions the stators cooked when the controller attempted to regulate output. With a higher quality controller like a Midnite I guess this is less of an issue. I do know they insist on connecting the controller to the battery first to lower the risk of cooking circuitry ! Also don't turn the turbine loose until all connections are made and secured.
You need to vent that drainpipe that'll solve your back pressure problem. I assume the 200v reading is DC? Why not run the 3 phase to the building then rectify it? No loss....
Does it generate enough power to use a pump with a closed water loop system and use water tanks for storage, one high up for gravity feed to turbine? One water tank lower for catch and collect after the turbine. A simple low power water pump should be able to keep up with the refill of upper tank right? Make water hole smaller for less water consumption and efficency.
Can you show me a clearer step by step procedure on how to do the turbine please? I live in a remote place where ther is no source for power, even solar is not possible because big trees wont allow sun to penetrate, you project can help me and other people in the wilderness thank you
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