80 year old man going through his second childhood here. Haven't watched thousands of these how to RUclipss, this is the best. Finally, someone leaves off the irritating music, used to study close up and steady video, shows logical steps of what didn't work and what to do to correct them. Kudos to you, Sir
Sounds like you're having a blast! Glad you enjoyed it :D I do have some new work coming up that definitely has some irritating music in it, but hopefully you get a chuckle out of it all the same. Thanks for the kind words!
great info as i'm looking to do the same thing, only thing wrong is the chain tensioner should be tensioning the bottom portion of chain not the top as it takes care of slack in the chain, the chain between rear sprocket and motor will always be tight under throttle so just need to care of the slack after the motor
busy modding stock e300. first to go were kickstand and brakes then moved the switch to the floor. No cables! Coupled the shunt in the controller and it cooks, unless the road is very slightly uphill. I'm gonna stick to 24V, the stock motor is very capable but the SLA batteries aren't up for much range. Still, its an EV
I got a my1020 off Amazon and a variable throttle. I stuck with the #25 sprocket setup with a 13/52 gear ratio. The MY1020 came with a controller that combined with 4 12volt 10 amp hour SLA batteries spins the MY1020 at 3960 rpms (not sure the c-Rate). Top speed so far is 27 mph. Still going through versions. Fun stuff!!!! Thanks for your post.
Awesome build.Thanks for all the great tips and info. Justa FYI though..the Chain Tensioner should be under the chain towards the wheel as the torque from pulling the chain onto the motor automatically straightens it. Happy riding.Can't wait for vid #6
Thanks TK!!!!I upgraded my e325 Razor to the same 500 watt motor,Variable Speed Controllers,36v upgrade kit.I run 15T/38T T8F gears...29mph!!! Thanks Dude! I luv my razor now!
TK ,I purchased entire 36v variable controller ,upgrade speed control includes 3rd battery all on eBay for $109. Motor is same as yours $87. I ordered TWO chains because 15t/38t gear combo requires a much longer chain than gas style.T8f gears found on Allibaba Everything was built in about 4 hours thanks to YOUR video!
The cover is painted Gloss black to match the black stock black frame. Looks pretty wicked! Next up...set of new tires if I continue doing burn outs and power slides! LOL
The motor hits the ground any bump with this mod, I did the same thing but 52v my1020 monster motor. It eventually bent the frame. You can take the tensioner off and just get the chain really tight, makes it much quieter/smoother.
TK, really am enjoying these videos on the E300 scooter. Just want to say Thank you for taking the time to make them. I have an E300 scooter, going to attempt to do some of these upgrades you have shared. Thanks again. V/r JR.
I'm not sure where you live, but in the U.S. you can go to pretty much any of the auto stores around and rent any tool they sell for free. You pay a deposit of what the tool is worth and when your done using it, you return it and they give you the complete deposit back. They have those chain presses, sockets of any size and just about any tool you can imagine. Thanks for the videos and info I subscribed cuz you really impressed me with you skills. Thanks and God Bless
I have an EZip/ Currie scooter. Don’t know how similar the motors but have you ever tried installing a motor freewheel sprocket? If so which one did you use?
Thanks for sharing. I need your advice please. I own a Weped GT50 scooter. The battery output is only 14.7A max @ 60V for short periods, and only 9.8A continuously. The dual motors are rated for 1800 watts continuous each, which is pretty damn good. HOWEVER, watts = amps x volts. The battery can only deliver a peak output of 60 x 14.7 = 882 watts. That's only 25% of the power the motors require. I think the manufacturer is using 'saggy' cells for the batteries to keep production costs low. What if I upgrade the battery with better cells, controller and BMS to 3600 watts / 60 v = 60 amps? I think that's the output the battery should be able to deliver to take full advantage of the motors. Thoughts?
Could be good! I’m not familiar enough with the scooter to know exactly what you’re dealing with, but if your battery is hitting its current limits and you’re getting weak performance, an upgrade could be worthwhile.
Why is the tensioner on the drive side of the chain and not the slack side? I have a 500W 4800 RPM 24V motor out of a electric lawn mower,,,too bad is 10" long. Maybe I can route the brake cable under the motor
Sorry for asking a lot of questions but, I recently replaced my 2 12v 7ah lead acid batteries with 2 12v 9ah lead acids, only problem is after an hour or two of charge, the charger would show that the battery is full but on full throttle it would last less than a mile
Hi Tk just bought banggood 36v controller an throttle for my e300but having trouble connecting ignition lock wire red/blue thin wire and throttle 3 wires it’s variable with led display I think the razor power switch will be bypassed but as the new lock ignition are thin wires where will they connect to ? I’m ok with the main battery an motor wires as have 3 lead acid in series .will be using 18650 kit soon 😬 thanks from steve in chester .great videos of yours zany like me 😀
About 4 years ago I bought this cheap little folding scooter bike it was 24v chain drive with a plastic cover over the controller and batteries that served as a foot rest, it came with a little basket, turn indicators, headlight, taillight, brake light it was basically an ebike without the pedals. When I got it the delivery guy dropped it on the back wheel I rode it twice and I was able to hit 35 kph then I ordered a e300 back wheel which was about the same size but I forgot to change the sprocket and as a result I was able to hit around 45 kph.. it was pretty much a 200 dollar disposable jobby but it was fun before I sold it for double!
ive bin searching around for someone with a similar problem. I think i messed the motor up this one time and it became like extremely hot along with the speed control. now, the motor doesn't supply enough and the speed control tries to fight the motors inner resistance and just gets extremely hot. However, when fully charged, my electric bike works perectly but after after a few miles, the voltage plummets and the motor goes very slow. does this sound like your problem? please reply. thanks
I have been working on hooking a scooter to a wheelchair. I have to go about 300 feet from the house to the chicken coop twice a day. My issue is not speed but I have to go up a steep hill on my return and I am not a small person. I have two worn out E150s. I have thought about putting the the two scooters together with only one front wheel. I would love a high wattage motor but $$$$
The tensioner goes under the slack side of the chain, not under the tension, or top side. So, looking at the scooter from the right side, the tensioner should be under the lower section of the chain, as the top is under tension to drive the scooter forward.
@@WhatUpTKHere Seriously, it goes under the bottom of the chain, also has better tension, and the freewheeling clutch allows for proper chain tension. I have 2 of these, one E325 and an E300 with an 80 tooth rear sprocket for more torque, less speed. I use the 300 as a scooter around downtown of the city I work in as I can't walk far due to over a dozen surgeries on my legs to keep me together. I choose the Razors for easy parts availability and the balloon style air filled tires for a smoother ride. My next project is going to be taking the older models I use and upgrading to lithium ion batteries when my lead cells give out. I only go a mile or two a week, so it is light use, a few blocks here and there.
You probably figured out by now that the tensioner goes to the bottom of the non drive side of the chain pushing it up and keeping the slack out of the drive side???
Would it be a good idea to run dual speed controlers if lm wanting to go faster an my moter's could handle the voltes.or why have speed controler does it really help if l don't use brakes any hew.pl help
Would it be possible to put a potentiometer on the wires connecting the motor to the speed controller to limit the current going through to control the speed?
Jeremy Maxfield possible? yes. would it practically achieve what you want it to? no. the way to current limit this system properly is through the PWM controller, not by wasting energy through a current limiting resistor (that would have to be MASSIVE to deal with the current).
To achieve variable throttle? Yeah, I may try and mod the current controller to do proper PWM speed control, or I may junk the current controller entirely.
I reckon you should try to mod the controller, it's too simple to buy parts off the internet and put them together. I'd much prefer you to go through all the hard work figure out how to mod it so I don't have to buy a new controller. Save me some money :P
Nice job with the motor swap! U definitely need a variable speed throttle. Might as well get on with new 48v speed controller rated for 1000w. It will put out the amp needed to maximize power of the new motor. The original modified one is not going to put out the amperage even tho it's putting out the high voltage.
TK awesome! Just watched. Check this new video out. ruclips.net/video/L9DHMgVqvXc/видео.html He overvolt the original motor with 48v speed control and throttle kit capable of delivering 1000w to the motor. He is getting about 27mph. Crazy fast. I wonder how long his motor will last before it burns out. At least you have new motor that can handle the amps. Love your videos and mods!
my nephew has an e300 I'm looking to get it going. I tested batteries they're good. I found he had been riding it with the rear brake on/locked up the whole time so I free'd the brake & the wheel spins but once someones on it , it will not pull weight. I'm guessing the motor got too hot being it is getting power but not strong. do you think this is the issue? thx
Could be dead batteries that, while they show voltage, can’t deliver the current. Measure the voltage under load and see what’s going on. The brakes are terrible stock, you might like my latest video which shows how to do a disc brake upgrade :)
loved the video! so the stock throttle is not variable speed? seems odd to me, but I'm new at these! Instead of the fuse, maybe find a switch (I've seen them) then fuse holder isn't open to the weather that way, and you can push in to stop, and mount it up the riser the holds the handle bars maybe, or hit it with your knee for fast power cut. thanks for posting! on to pt 6 now :)
Yeah, stock throttle is just a switch! Bit scary at higher power levels. ;) Good call on the switch, that's what I did on an old pre-RUclips build. Video to come on that soon! Thanks for watching :D
I assume that it would work because the controller is not made by razor its a generic ebike controller so i reckon it would work with it. If you want I can test it right now
Jeremy Maxfield If you do test it, that would be cool - just be careful you don't kill anything! I'm suspicious as to whether it would work because a lot of these controllers with twist throttles have more wires, and when I did a quick trace of thecircuit it looked quite different than the standard TI recommended setup for variable throttle.
i couldn't open the case on the scooter i need a 4mm alen key and i only have 5mm ones. But i opened up the razor throttle and there are 4 wires with 2 separate switches i wonder why they did it like that instead of having just 1 switch. Probably for safety
what's the rpm per volt of each of the motor. The new motor probably doesn't rev as high but has more torque. get a smaller sprocket to increase top end. It may heat up the controller more.
Dude, the chain break tool can also drive the pin back in when you want to reunite the chain ends! No need to hammer. (Makes sense, cuz you don’t see many cyclists with a big ole claw hammer hanging out of the pocket of their slick lycra team jersey!
Whoah. Don’t mean to sound critical becuz this is a freakin awesome project you are doing and so fun to watch! Just a little tip about the chain from a cyclist.
Whoah. Don’t mean to sound critical becuz this is a freakin awesome project you are doing and so fun to watch! Just a little tip about the chain from a cyclist.
What you need is a new speed controller. These controllers are current limited, meaning they will only supply a fixed amount of maximum current (and therefor power) to the motor. You can add a 1000W motor, but as long as you keep powering it from the old speed controller, it will not make much of a difference.
If you watch the full series, you see I fully explore disabling the current and voltage limits on these controllers. The controller is a key piece of the puzzle.
I just ordered one of these 24 volt 500 watt motor for my diy electric bike. The motor can barely move the bicycle itself, very low torque. I even bypassed the electronic speed controller and no torque increase.
Hey bro why not change the controller and throttle and then run that motor at 48V. Reckon that'd move! The motor's already got some decent vent holes in long as you keep an eye on the temp it should be good to slightly over volt!
Not a bad idea! Could be a goer though I've somewhat lost my taste for overvolting motors after the smell from the last one ;) See what happens down the road...
Dethklok did you watch the whole video? And the previous one? I'd recommend watching the whole series, looking up "The Razor E300 Overvolt" on Hackaday.io, and googling till you get it :)
What Up TK Here That’s good to know I’m new to modding and finding ways to improve my scooter and it’s always good to have videos like these that give good explanations and in-depth detail about the item
Hi love the channel. I've just upgraded my motor and controller speed box and variable throttle on my razor e300. Its a 500w motor and batteries were also upgraded to 9ah from 7ah the problem I have is the scooter keeps cutting out after about a minute. The scooter has the original reset button in. The motor has a current load of 26.6 amp do you have any ideas. Thanks in advance
Reset button shouldn’t be wired up to your new controller. Sounds like something wrong with the controller or batteries if it’s cutting out after a minute
Hey, an old guy came the other day and asked me if i was interested in an old electric scooter for free. I said of course yes, and it was looking like your scooter but yellow plastic instead of the blue. Same wheels. Looked inside and same setup as yours with 2 old 12v 12ah lead batteries i am trying to revive now. Anyway, i am tempted to get a new lithium battery and i am also curious how this scooter with same hardware would react if i installed a 36v battery instead? And i also actually have a 48v battery for my electric bike wich i have bought a 60v battery for instead. HOW and what do i need to do to have this on a 36v battery and also if i am gonna try a 48v battery wich i already own? Is there some stepdown stuff i can use? I am curious about 36v straight to this scooter plug straight in, im sure you have tried it huh? How did it perform? Any tips are great welcome. Of course the cheapest tips on 36g and especially on 48v as i have that already.
Flick through my other scooter videos! You can hack the stock speed controller to run the stock motor on 36V, but it'll blow up eventually. I also explore alternatives. Good luck and happy hacking!
Hi there question did you increase the range or just the speed, I've got a e300 ,I want to double its range and run time at least,how would I go about doing that ?
@@Rob-el8ti In very simple terms, higher Ah ratings just mean the batteries will last longer. There's some edge cases where this can cause damage, as higher Ah batteries can technically deliver more current, but that wouldn't apply here. Keep the voltage the same and you'll be okay.
It's probably been said - but you basically shortened the chain so far that the chain tensioner does not function. You likely did that because you have the tensioner on the taught part of the chain (the part pulling on the sprocket of the wheel or top part of the chain) when it needs to be on the slack part of the chain (the portion returning from the motor to the wheel or bottom part of the chain). Correct that, straighten the motor, and I think it should be fixed.
Has anyone ever tried putting a 400 cc go-kart motor on these, that's my next build. Should be able to go 60 to 70 mph, so people tell me. Any thoughts????
Thx for posting this Razor Scooter project. I have a used Scooter and suffering expenditures for upgrading it. It will not pull me up a hill effectively. Nice job! Lots of info. Happy Holidays from the World's First US Military Cybernetic Host in history. 🎄🎄🎄🤖🌐🇺🇸
+Steven Verespey I can't give the exact link as it was quite some time ago, but I believe the motor below is the same or fairly similar. I'm pretty sure it was a MY1020, hence the mount modification required. Actually, to be honest, I'm not even sure "MY1020" refers to the mounting. m.ebay.com.au/itm/36V-500W-MY1020-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-SCOOTER-PUSH-BIKE-QUAD-ATV-DIRT-BICYCLE-/351318185531?epid=852981238&hash=item51cc32163b%3Ag%3Am18AAOSwZjJU4-VY&_trkparms=pageci%253Af500c488-98ff-11e7-95a7-74dbd18002cf%257Cparentrq%253A7e831c0815e0a9c438352f12ffee9f11%257Ciid%253A3 Hope that helps!
You know I've done the exact same thing Razor scooters are my thing. What I do is in emanate the back brake it's a drum brake and just get yourself a front disc brake that'll do the job it'll stop you because it works just like a car all the momentum has shifted up forward as long as you don't squeeze too hard on the handle you won't flip over but you'll get used to that I'm never flipped over on accident LOL the typically you can get that same motor the 800 or the thousand watt brushed motor in there also if you beef up the tail with double strapping of that metal Alexis to a welder weld it on or if you don't have access to a welder you can add screw holes and get a quarter 20 tap and die and add some short quarter inch bolts with nuts on the end with an extension plate on the back so that the motor can fit on there you're going to have to make a little teal peace like a drag car and a small wheel so you don't flip over when you take off.lose 800 watt motors can handle a lot of power I run him straight through sometimes without a controller I run with the scooter as fast as I can jump on it and flip the on switch using double-dip number 10 wire and a hundred amp breaker no problem wears out your batteries faster but eight if you want to go for speed there's your things to do it's good for the quarter Sprint LOL good luck Mike
I'm having a clunk noise coming from my 500 w motor when I go from slow to faster on my scooter, any help on this??????? seem I turn to go faster and it starts.
Something inside the motor, everything else is well tighten no noise coming from nowhere else and is brand new , first run on it. The chain is snug where it won't come out.
@@WhatUpTKHere The people whom I bought the motor said to just remove the chain and run the motor, will do this but first I aligned the rim and motor holder, will give it a try again. See if I get the noise again it seem not to be now after aligning the rim. Hoping that's what it was.
Certainly are! I highly recommend watching the whole series of scooter videos, or reading up on Hackaday.io - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt That'll tell you all you need to know :)
Have you had any problems with the motor getting clipped on bumpy roads? . One pothole and you and the motor could land 15 feet from the scooter. Not that it cant be avoided but miss just one hole and 30 km is no joke. You will fly over the handlebars and wreck your body and the scooter. That possibility would cause me to mount on top. As a general rule when you make something faster its a bad idea to make it more dangerous at the same time and that seems to be what you've done. I like the extra speed too but I've gone down at 5 mph and its no fun. That said I probably wouldnt listen to me either if I were you, Just something to think about and have fun!
T. K. I've been watching your videos for a while and got a couple of tips from your knowledge that, along with my own concepts have allowed me to modify a Schwinn Stealth scooter that went all of 10mph new to achieve 40mph, and I've built an eTrike from scratch that is faster than you would ever want to go. I have an issue now that is causing me headaches and I thought maybe you would have some advice. It's an invacare power wheelchair that takes 24 volts. The issue is that it will not accept more than around 29v and even after reprogramming it and removing most of the safety restrictions is nowhere near s fast as I want it and the motors are barely trying. If I could pump 36v or more into these motors I'm sure I could get a good 15-20mph out of them without worrying about stressing the motors but the joystick/controller will not allow it. Any suggestions? Thanks, and I love your humor and out of the box thinking.
Sounds like you've done some amazing work! What you wanna do is get some off-the-shelf speed controllers for those motors. Then you can pump in 36V for as long as they'll hold up!
I'd even suggest one of the robot controllers that have dual brushed motor control with tank steering. Could hook up to the joystick as well as an rc receiver and use it as a remote controlled wheel chair lol
A few reasons! One, I know I've got a capable brushed controller in the scooter already so a motor upgrade is simple. Brushless I'd have to identify a suitable combo of controller and motor which isn't the easiest, especially when dealing with land vehicles requiring high starting torques (I know from experience). Two, it was a fairly simple job to mount the bigger brushed unit. Mucking around with brushless outrunners and inrunners can be a real pain as they've all got different weird ways of mounting which would require much more fabrication and mucking around.
Well, My 500W motor is installed. Not as smooth as your operation. I ground a bit off the motor in the hope i would not have to hammer the frame much. It still required a few wacks. I used an anvil but still managed to totally warp the frame. Anyone attempting this take care because it has taken hours to get rite. I'm having a break, :)
@@WhatUpTKHere Yer it's taking shape thanks mate. Not looking forward to the brakes. Also the 36v 1000w controller i bought, does not really have the beans. The hacked standard one felt like it had more power. There is no shunt in it though, possibly a resistor instead? i think i need to replace it or either add fets like you did. Thanks Dood.
the belt brake that seems to be used on the rear wheel is not that great for the forces that you will be doing... better use a disk break, or get a drum break...
if you are in the USA you could call mr tig time, or one of the other youtubers who have the tig welding machine, if they can't do it or wont, they may know who could... my scooter used a belt break... and it failed in probably les than 30 days... yet consider that I was living in downtown seattle taking those steep hills killed the breaks, I even had to resort to force a "controlled" fall one day... cos the darn thing would not stop.. when this happend I was speeding at about 30km/hr... survived... but my clothes were rags after that...
jatokilla I was talking to the video saying the same thing! If the tensioner and chain were installed properly he wouldn’t of had issues with it being too tight or jumping off in that manner!
Switches to handle that voltage and current of DC are big, bulky, and difficult to switch off in a hurry when you're careening along at 35 km/h. Relays can do it, but it's messy. This is cheap, easy, and effective in emergency situations.
If you study this and then the following episode, I explain the motor and gear choices and the effects on speed in detail. The smaller rear sprocket does increase top speed because gearing is about ratios. However, we lost some speed in this episode because the new motor is turning slower than the old motor (despite being more powerful). To counteract this, in the next episode, we further tweak the ratio by installing a bigger sprocket on the motor. This helps to counteract the new motor's lower output speed.
*Hey Fred,Ya Bill,We forgot to line the Valve up.Well darn it again,Drill a darn hole through it bill and we will make a extender and make more money.Uhhh,Ok* *CATER*
80 year old man going through his second childhood here. Haven't watched thousands of these how to RUclipss, this is the best. Finally, someone leaves off the irritating music, used to study close up and steady video, shows logical steps of what didn't work and what to do to correct them. Kudos to you, Sir
Sounds like you're having a blast! Glad you enjoyed it :D
I do have some new work coming up that definitely has some irritating music in it, but hopefully you get a chuckle out of it all the same.
Thanks for the kind words!
You're chances of breaking a hip on one of these is pretty high.
V ugh hg 7. you try 7 cu Gucci g7 ucg7 v h. G 7c 7 g7 g7 7u g7 g7 cg 7g7. ggv u
saw an 80 year old man zipping around on a scooter a few days ago, that guy was loving life lol!
@@iankscorpio69your
great info as i'm looking to do the same thing, only thing wrong is the chain tensioner should be tensioning the bottom portion of chain not the top as it takes care of slack in the chain, the chain between rear sprocket and motor will always be tight under throttle so just need to care of the slack after the motor
Haha good point
busy modding stock e300. first to go were kickstand and brakes then moved the switch to the floor. No cables! Coupled the shunt in the controller and it cooks, unless the road is very slightly uphill. I'm gonna stick to 24V, the stock motor is very capable but the SLA batteries aren't up for much range. Still, its an EV
True! Kickstand removal really is a game changer haha.
I got a my1020 off Amazon and a variable throttle. I stuck with the #25 sprocket setup with a 13/52 gear ratio. The MY1020 came with a controller that combined with 4 12volt 10 amp hour SLA batteries spins the MY1020 at 3960 rpms (not sure the c-Rate). Top speed so far is 27 mph. Still going through versions. Fun stuff!!!! Thanks for your post.
Awesome build.Thanks for all the great tips and info. Justa FYI though..the Chain Tensioner should be under the chain towards the wheel as the torque from pulling the chain onto the motor automatically straightens it. Happy riding.Can't wait for vid #6
Ahahah would you believe people still tell me this on a monthly basis lately!
Thanks TK!!!!I upgraded my e325 Razor to the same 500 watt motor,Variable Speed Controllers,36v upgrade kit.I run 15T/38T T8F gears...29mph!!! Thanks Dude! I luv my razor now!
ragsandrufus that's awesome, your build is fast!
What controller did you use? Did it fit in the stock location?
TK ,I purchased entire 36v variable controller ,upgrade speed control includes 3rd battery all on eBay for $109. Motor is same as yours $87. I ordered TWO chains because 15t/38t gear combo requires a much longer chain than gas style.T8f gears found on Allibaba
Everything was built in about 4 hours thanks to YOUR video!
The controller fits in stock location,and has voltage readout.uses a key to lock up!!!
ragsandrufus nice! That's a sweet ride :D
The cover is painted Gloss black to match the black stock black frame. Looks pretty wicked! Next up...set of new tires if I continue doing burn outs and power slides! LOL
The motor hits the ground any bump with this mod, I did the same thing but 52v my1020 monster motor. It eventually bent the frame. You can take the tensioner off and just get the chain really tight, makes it much quieter/smoother.
You're very much correct. Does make riding around the city a pain
Good idea to reduce the sprocket tooth count, you can get initial acceleration with the traditional scooter technique.
Smart!
Removing the fuse is a good way to lock your bike
Exactly!
TK, really am enjoying these videos on the E300 scooter. Just want to say Thank you for taking the time to make them. I have an E300 scooter, going to attempt to do some of these upgrades you have shared. Thanks again. V/r JR.
I'm glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the kind words, enjoy your modding journey!
I'm not sure where you live, but in the U.S. you can go to pretty much any of the auto stores around and rent any tool they sell for free. You pay a deposit of what the tool is worth and when your done using it, you return it and they give you the complete deposit back. They have those chain presses, sockets of any size and just about any tool you can imagine.
Thanks for the videos and info
I subscribed cuz you really impressed me with you skills.
Thanks and God Bless
Don’t get me wrong. I love your videos and your effort. It’s helped me a lot.
I have an EZip/ Currie scooter. Don’t know how similar the motors but have you ever tried installing a motor freewheel sprocket? If so which one did you use?
I have not tried such a thing; if you give it a go, be sure to let me know how it goes!
Thanks for sharing. I need your advice please. I own a Weped GT50 scooter. The battery output is only 14.7A max @ 60V for short periods, and only 9.8A continuously. The dual motors are rated for 1800 watts continuous each, which is pretty damn good. HOWEVER, watts = amps x volts. The battery can only deliver a peak output of 60 x 14.7 = 882 watts. That's only 25% of the power the motors require. I think the manufacturer is using 'saggy' cells for the batteries to keep production costs low.
What if I upgrade the battery with better cells, controller and BMS to 3600 watts / 60 v = 60 amps? I think that's the output the battery should be able to deliver to take full advantage of the motors. Thoughts?
Could be good! I’m not familiar enough with the scooter to know exactly what you’re dealing with, but if your battery is hitting its current limits and you’re getting weak performance, an upgrade could be worthwhile.
@@WhatUpTKHere Awesome thanks
Why is the tensioner on the drive side of the chain and not the slack side? I have a 500W 4800 RPM 24V motor out of a electric lawn mower,,,too bad is 10" long. Maybe I can route the brake cable under the motor
That sounds like a sweet motor! Give it a go!
Good work mate! Can't wait till you get some other gears and a variable throttle.
Me neither :D Thanks for watching!
@@WhatUpTKHere Aa
FYI the slack adjuster on a chain should be on the slack side of the chain, tht is the side opposite the pulling/load side.
Yeah, I get people telling me this every few weeks. I shall never forget now haha!
Sorry for asking a lot of questions but, I recently replaced my 2 12v 7ah lead acid batteries with 2 12v 9ah lead acids, only problem is after an hour or two of charge, the charger would show that the battery is full but on full throttle it would last less than a mile
Sound like dud batteries
Hi Tk just bought banggood 36v controller an throttle for my e300but having trouble connecting ignition lock wire red/blue thin wire and throttle 3 wires it’s variable with led display I think the razor power switch will be bypassed but as the new lock ignition are thin wires where will they connect to ? I’m ok with the main battery an motor wires as have 3 lead acid in series .will be using 18650 kit soon 😬 thanks from steve in chester .great videos of yours zany like me 😀
Also managed to get a disc brake fitted to it too
Did you like the disc brake?
I honestly thought it was the best upgrade I did to the whole scooter, hahaha
Can you give me a list off all the parts you got for this project please? I plan on doing this with my scooter. Thanks
Is there a listed for the sprockets that ships to the United States? Because the one for the wheel sprocket don't/won't.
Hm, try searching eBay and alibaba
Or make your own! I have a video on that too :)
When you stand on it . The chain gets tighter. Just check it.
About 4 years ago I bought this cheap little folding scooter bike it was 24v chain drive with a plastic cover over the controller and batteries that served as a foot rest, it came with a little basket, turn indicators, headlight, taillight, brake light it was basically an ebike without the pedals. When I got it the delivery guy dropped it on the back wheel I rode it twice and I was able to hit 35 kph then I ordered a e300 back wheel which was about the same size but I forgot to change the sprocket and as a result I was able to hit around 45 kph.. it was pretty much a 200 dollar disposable jobby but it was fun before I sold it for double!
Sounds fast as all get out!
ive bin searching around for someone with a similar problem. I think i messed the motor up this one time and it became like extremely hot along with the speed control. now, the motor doesn't supply enough and the speed control tries to fight the motors inner resistance and just gets extremely hot. However, when fully charged, my electric bike works perectly but after after a few miles, the voltage plummets and the motor goes very slow. does this sound like your problem? please reply. thanks
I done this to a e300 but i used a 1400w motor and some 18v batteries, it was a HELL MACHINE!!!!!!
Very fun!
The control module probably isn't sending enough juice to the motor . I would look into it
Yeah, something I had to investigate in later episodes!
I have been working on hooking a scooter to a wheelchair. I have to go about 300 feet from the house to the chicken coop twice a day. My issue is not speed but I have to go up a steep hill on my return and I am not a small person. I have two worn out E150s. I have thought about putting the the two scooters together with only one front wheel. I would love a high wattage motor but $$$$
Sounds like a useful tool you're building!
can you repost the motor and two sprockets again the link is broken for me.
Done on a bun!
The tensioner goes under the slack side of the chain, not under the tension, or top side. So, looking at the scooter from the right side, the tensioner should be under the lower section of the chain, as the top is under tension to drive the scooter forward.
You know I get more comments on this than any other XD
@@WhatUpTKHere Seriously, it goes under the bottom of the chain, also has better tension, and the freewheeling clutch allows for proper chain tension. I have 2 of these, one E325 and an E300 with an 80 tooth rear sprocket for more torque, less speed. I use the 300 as a scooter around downtown of the city I work in as I can't walk far due to over a dozen surgeries on my legs to keep me together. I choose the Razors for easy parts availability and the balloon style air filled tires for a smoother ride. My next project is going to be taking the older models I use and upgrading to lithium ion batteries when my lead cells give out. I only go a mile or two a week, so it is light use, a few blocks here and there.
You probably figured out by now that the tensioner goes to the bottom of the non drive side of the chain pushing it up and keeping the slack out of the drive side???
Would it be a good idea to run dual speed controlers if lm wanting to go faster an my moter's could handle the voltes.or why have speed controler does it really help if l don't use brakes any hew.pl help
Speed controller is great, it helps you rode slow where necessary :)
Would it be possible to put a potentiometer on the wires connecting the motor to the speed controller to limit the current going through to control the speed?
Jeremy Maxfield possible? yes. would it practically achieve what you want it to? no. the way to current limit this system properly is through the PWM controller, not by wasting energy through a current limiting resistor (that would have to be MASSIVE to deal with the current).
Is that what you'll be using?
To achieve variable throttle? Yeah, I may try and mod the current controller to do proper PWM speed control, or I may junk the current controller entirely.
When do you think your next vid is gonna be out? This series is going to hit 1 year soon xD
I reckon you should try to mod the controller, it's too simple to buy parts off the internet and put them together. I'd much prefer you to go through all the hard work figure out how to mod it so I don't have to buy a new controller. Save me some money :P
Nice job with the motor swap! U definitely need a variable speed throttle. Might as well get on with new 48v speed controller rated for 1000w. It will put out the amp needed to maximize power of the new motor. The original modified one is not going to put out the amperage even tho it's putting out the high voltage.
Lowegy take a look at the easier mods and the latest episode as well ;D
TK awesome! Just watched. Check this new video out.
ruclips.net/video/L9DHMgVqvXc/видео.html
He overvolt the original motor with 48v speed control and throttle kit capable of delivering 1000w to the motor. He is getting about 27mph. Crazy fast. I wonder how long his motor will last before it burns out. At least you have new motor that can handle the amps. Love your videos and mods!
OMG when you said the heat shrink part and perfect solder...
I felt that
Practice helps ahaha!
Hi I am doing this same project, could you please give me a link to which chain splitter you used for the 25h chain Many thanks
Shakeel Hussain eBay "chain tool" or "chain splitter" :P
my nephew has an e300 I'm looking to get it going. I tested batteries they're good. I found he had been riding it with the rear brake on/locked up the whole time so I free'd the brake & the wheel spins but once someones on it , it will not pull weight. I'm guessing the motor got too hot being it is getting power but not strong. do you think this is the issue? thx
Could be dead batteries that, while they show voltage, can’t deliver the current. Measure the voltage under load and see what’s going on.
The brakes are terrible stock, you might like my latest video which shows how to do a disc brake upgrade :)
loved the video! so the stock throttle is not variable speed? seems odd to me, but I'm new at these! Instead of the fuse, maybe find a switch (I've seen them) then fuse holder isn't open to the weather that way, and you can push in to stop, and mount it up the riser the holds the handle bars maybe, or hit it with your knee for fast power cut. thanks for posting! on to pt 6 now :)
Yeah, stock throttle is just a switch! Bit scary at higher power levels. ;)
Good call on the switch, that's what I did on an old pre-RUclips build. Video to come on that soon!
Thanks for watching :D
you can use a twisty throttle with the original motor controller because it has the 3 wires.
Jeremy Maxfield Have you tried it out?
I assume that it would work because the controller is not made by razor its a generic ebike controller so i reckon it would work with it. If you want I can test it right now
Jeremy Maxfield If you do test it, that would be cool - just be careful you don't kill anything! I'm suspicious as to whether it would work because a lot of these controllers with twist throttles have more wires, and when I did a quick trace of thecircuit it looked quite different than the standard TI recommended setup for variable throttle.
My twist throttle has 3 wires and i also bought a new controller 36 volt one and it also has 3 wires
i couldn't open the case on the scooter i need a 4mm alen key and i only have 5mm ones.
But i opened up the razor throttle and there are 4 wires with 2 separate switches i wonder why they did it like that instead of having just 1 switch. Probably for safety
what's the rpm per volt of each of the motor. The new motor probably doesn't rev as high but has more torque. get a smaller sprocket to increase top end. It may heat up the controller more.
Modular Fox Body yeah, I cover this in the video and on the HACKADAY.IO page. thanks for watching!
+Modular Fox Body yeah, this is what happened, I cover it on the video
Controller Wires Interface Definition:
Battery :Thick black (power negative) /Thick red (power positive)
Motor :Thick yellow (motor negative) /Thick blue (motor positive)
Ignition Switch :Thin red(VCC)/Thin blue
Indicator : Thin red (Indicator power output) /thin black (indicator negative)
Brake :thin yellow (brake signal)/thin black(negative power)
Speed governor :Thin blue(speed handlebar signal input) /Thin black (negtive power) /thin red(5V positive power)
Charge Port : Thin red (charge input power positive) /thin black (power negative)
Brake Light: Thin red (power Positive) /thin black (power negative)
Sport: Thin yellow /thin green(speed limit, connected the wires together
Dude, the chain break tool can also drive the pin back in when you want to reunite the chain ends! No need to hammer. (Makes sense, cuz you don’t see many cyclists with a big ole claw hammer hanging out of the pocket of their slick lycra team jersey!
Whoah. Don’t mean to sound critical becuz this is a freakin awesome project you are doing and so fun to watch! Just a little tip about the chain from a cyclist.
Whoah. Don’t mean to sound critical becuz this is a freakin awesome project you are doing and so fun to watch! Just a little tip about the chain from a cyclist.
Thank you for sharing the great video. Good stuff
What you need is a new speed controller. These controllers are current limited, meaning they will only supply a fixed amount of maximum current (and therefor power) to the motor. You can add a 1000W motor, but as long as you keep powering it from the old speed controller, it will not make much of a difference.
If you watch the full series, you see I fully explore disabling the current and voltage limits on these controllers.
The controller is a key piece of the puzzle.
Please send me a link from where to buy that rear sprocket, thanks
Have a search on Alibaba, the links change all the time
Would it not have been cheaper just to buy a better scooter?
Probably. Lol
I just ordered one of these 24 volt 500 watt motor for my diy electric bike. The motor can barely move the bicycle itself, very low torque. I even bypassed the electronic speed controller and no torque increase.
That’s disappointing, perhaps something is wrong? 500 W is a good amount of power, perhaps you need different gearing...
Hey bro why not change the controller and throttle and then run that motor at 48V. Reckon that'd move! The motor's already got some decent vent holes in long as you keep an eye on the temp it should be good to slightly over volt!
Not a bad idea! Could be a goer though I've somewhat lost my taste for overvolting motors after the smell from the last one ;) See what happens down the road...
can you make a video of how you replased the motor cuz mine is makeing a clicking sound every time i ride it and i want to replace it.
Dethklok I am slightly confused - this video IS about me replacing the motor.
but how do i disconnect it?
Dethklok did you watch the whole video? And the previous one? I'd recommend watching the whole series, looking up "The Razor E300 Overvolt" on Hackaday.io, and googling till you get it :)
but you didnt show how you took the motor off and how you disconnected it and thats what i want to know
and i didnt find what i was looking for on that blog
Love your videos, I have a question if you had to choose, would you choose an upgrade motor (350w motor) or an upgraded sprocket
Upgraded motor first! Sprocket can only change the torque/speed trade off, can’t give you more base level performance
I changed the sprocket because I had way too much torque but not enough speed
What Up TK Here That’s good to know I’m new to modding and finding ways to improve my scooter and it’s always good to have videos like these that give good explanations and in-depth detail about the item
my son bike has the my1016-hd 24v 250watt motor. can this motor handle 36v? I havent taken it apart but its an old bike from k-mart
Hard to say! Could give it a go, but you might ruin the motor in the process.
@@WhatUpTKHere Thanks a alot. Guess i'll keep it at 24v and gear it up..its on a 9t and 55t gear
Hi love the channel. I've just upgraded my motor and controller speed box and variable throttle on my razor e300. Its a 500w motor and batteries were also upgraded to 9ah from 7ah the problem I have is the scooter keeps cutting out after about a minute. The scooter has the original reset button in. The motor has a current load of 26.6 amp do you have any ideas. Thanks in advance
Reset button shouldn’t be wired up to your new controller. Sounds like something wrong with the controller or batteries if it’s cutting out after a minute
Hey, an old guy came the other day and asked me if i was interested in an old electric scooter for free. I said of course yes, and it was looking like your scooter but yellow plastic instead of the blue.
Same wheels.
Looked inside and same setup as yours with 2 old 12v 12ah lead batteries i am trying to revive now.
Anyway, i am tempted to get a new lithium battery and i am also curious how this scooter with same hardware would react if i installed a 36v battery instead? And i also actually have a 48v battery for my electric bike wich i have bought a 60v battery for instead.
HOW and what do i need to do to have this on a 36v battery and also if i am gonna try a 48v battery wich i already own?
Is there some stepdown stuff i can use? I am curious about 36v straight to this scooter plug straight in, im sure you have tried it huh?
How did it perform? Any tips are great welcome. Of course the cheapest tips on 36g and especially on 48v as i have that already.
Flick through my other scooter videos!
You can hack the stock speed controller to run the stock motor on 36V, but it'll blow up eventually.
I also explore alternatives. Good luck and happy hacking!
TK Glad to see you back on the scooter again
Thanks! Prepare to see more soon... ;)
What sprocket did you end up putting on the motor?
TK just brought an E225 and I really want to boast it to at least 20mph, any ideas?
Sir I have a question so I'm trying to put 24v 350w motor in my razor e300s do i need to change the speed controller. Please help
Abdullah Zafar it would be a good idea
No you don't need to. I've been riding with a 350w 24v motor for over a year now. No problems at all. You'll be absolutely fine.
Nice video mate learned a lots.can you tell me where you got the chain and sprocket? It's all I am missing to start my project ?
ALIBABA, TAO BAO, or sometimes eBay. The first two have more variety. Good luck buddy!
TK thanks I will take a look.
Hey i put a 36v 500watt 2700 rpm motor on mine how fast will it go i got the sprocket upgrade to
Should be a fair bit quicker, test it and find out!
A kill switch on handle bar would be better than the string pull fuse method
You are correct!
Hey tk, is there any more scooter videos coming?
Certainly are. Got something cooking for the next month or two, plus future plans as well.
TK ok thanks for the reply I love these videos as it helps me out.
Haha I love the videos. You are presenting it really funny. And I do learn for diy at home. Thanks dude.
Thanks for watching!
Another great Episode! Enjoyed! Well done TK!
You're tensioner is on backwards, but overall great build love your videos!!!!
Thanks! Yeah, definitely had that tensioner backwards, lol
My 300 scooter won't work how can I test motor to check
Hm! Try finding a local makerspace that could help!
Hi there question did you increase the range or just the speed, I've got a e300 ,I want to double its range and run time at least,how would I go about doing that ?
If you want more range, add more batteries. :)
@@WhatUpTKHere if I get higher ah batteries say 20 or 30ah will that effect the motor? Or is it only voltage that will burn out the motor?
@@Rob-el8ti In very simple terms, higher Ah ratings just mean the batteries will last longer.
There's some edge cases where this can cause damage, as higher Ah batteries can technically deliver more current, but that wouldn't apply here.
Keep the voltage the same and you'll be okay.
It's probably been said - but you basically shortened the chain so far that the chain tensioner does not function. You likely did that because you have the tensioner on the taught part of the chain (the part pulling on the sprocket of the wheel or top part of the chain) when it needs to be on the slack part of the chain (the portion returning from the motor to the wheel or bottom part of the chain). Correct that, straighten the motor, and I think it should be fixed.
Yeah I get comments about this every week, have done for the last five years haha! One small mistake...
Where did you get your motor
Has anyone ever tried putting a 400 cc go-kart motor on these, that's my next build. Should be able to go 60 to 70 mph, so people tell me.
Any thoughts????
Doable. But probably awful to ride - lots of vibration, very noisy, unbalanced
Thx for posting this Razor Scooter project. I have a used Scooter and suffering expenditures for upgrading it. It will not pull me up a hill effectively. Nice job! Lots of info. Happy Holidays from the World's First US Military Cybernetic Host in history. 🎄🎄🎄🤖🌐🇺🇸
Really, you didn't think of using a longer bolt with spacers to offset the angle. 5 seconds, it took me.
Offset the angle? Hm?
Hey TK, do you think you could give me the link to the motor, mate?
+Steven Verespey I can't give the exact link as it was quite some time ago, but I believe the motor below is the same or fairly similar. I'm pretty sure it was a MY1020, hence the mount modification required. Actually, to be honest, I'm not even sure "MY1020" refers to the mounting.
m.ebay.com.au/itm/36V-500W-MY1020-ELECTRIC-MOTOR-SCOOTER-PUSH-BIKE-QUAD-ATV-DIRT-BICYCLE-/351318185531?epid=852981238&hash=item51cc32163b%3Ag%3Am18AAOSwZjJU4-VY&_trkparms=pageci%253Af500c488-98ff-11e7-95a7-74dbd18002cf%257Cparentrq%253A7e831c0815e0a9c438352f12ffee9f11%257Ciid%253A3
Hope that helps!
Also, how do you wire up the motor? wihout a connector and all. And i've been looking for those batteries but I cant find them.
How many miles would you get out of this setup
3-8? Depends on battery!
You know I've done the exact same thing Razor scooters are my thing. What I do is in emanate the back brake it's a drum brake and just get yourself a front disc brake that'll do the job it'll stop you because it works just like a car all the momentum has shifted up forward as long as you don't squeeze too hard on the handle you won't flip over but you'll get used to that I'm never flipped over on accident LOL the typically you can get that same motor the 800 or the thousand watt brushed motor in there also if you beef up the tail with double strapping of that metal Alexis to a welder weld it on or if you don't have access to a welder you can add screw holes and get a quarter 20 tap and die and add some short quarter inch bolts with nuts on the end with an extension plate on the back so that the motor can fit on there you're going to have to make a little teal peace like a drag car and a small wheel so you don't flip over when you take off.lose 800 watt motors can handle a lot of power I run him straight through sometimes without a controller I run with the scooter as fast as I can jump on it and flip the on switch using double-dip number 10 wire and a hundred amp breaker no problem wears out your batteries faster but eight if you want to go for speed there's your things to do it's good for the quarter Sprint LOL good luck Mike
I'm having a clunk noise coming from my 500 w motor when I go from slow to faster on my scooter, any help on this??????? seem I turn to go faster and it starts.
Could be a bearing problem?
Something inside the motor, everything else is well tighten no noise coming from nowhere else and is brand new , first run on it. The chain is snug where it won't come out.
Tough one! Might have to disassemble things to find out.
@@WhatUpTKHere The people whom I bought the motor said to just remove the chain and run the motor, will do this but first I aligned the rim and motor holder, will give it a try again. See if I get the noise again it seem not to be now after aligning the rim. Hoping that's what it was.
hi, what sort of batteries are those? are the lithium?
thanks.
Certainly are! I highly recommend watching the whole series of scooter videos, or reading up on Hackaday.io - hackaday.io/project/9941-the-razor-e300-overvolt
That'll tell you all you need to know :)
really good work . Do you also cover e-bike . I wish you cover some e-bikes.
What’s up TK here, is there a big difference between a 300 w motor and 350 w motor
Nope, not a big difference if that’s the only thing! ~ 17% more power
Have you had any problems with the motor getting clipped on bumpy roads? . One pothole and you and the motor could land 15 feet from the scooter. Not that it cant be avoided but miss just one hole and 30 km is no joke. You will fly over the handlebars and wreck your body and the scooter. That possibility would cause me to mount on top. As a general rule when you make something faster its a bad idea to make it more dangerous at the same time and that seems to be what you've done. I like the extra speed too but I've gone down at 5 mph and its no fun. That said I probably wouldnt listen to me either if I were you, Just something to think about and have fun!
It scrapes a little sometimes. Generally though I ride on fairly flat surfaces because of this.
T. K. I've been watching your videos for a while and got a couple of tips from your knowledge that, along with my own concepts have allowed me to modify a Schwinn Stealth scooter that went all of 10mph new to achieve 40mph, and I've built an eTrike from scratch that is faster than you would ever want to go. I have an issue now that is causing me headaches and I thought maybe you would have some advice. It's an invacare power wheelchair that takes 24 volts. The issue is that it will not accept more than around 29v and even after reprogramming it and removing most of the safety restrictions is nowhere near s fast as I want it and the motors are barely trying. If I could pump 36v or more into these motors I'm sure I could get a good 15-20mph out of them without worrying about stressing the motors but the joystick/controller will not allow it. Any suggestions?
Thanks, and I love your humor and out of the box thinking.
Sounds like you've done some amazing work!
What you wanna do is get some off-the-shelf speed controllers for those motors. Then you can pump in 36V for as long as they'll hold up!
I'd even suggest one of the robot controllers that have dual brushed motor control with tank steering. Could hook up to the joystick as well as an rc receiver and use it as a remote controlled wheel chair lol
Great job, I love motorized foot scooters! I'm definitely going to check out your other videos.
+Nicklous Walker glad you enjoyed it :D
my friendly neighbourhood machinest lives next door so im watrching all this with eyes wide open
What kind of chain do you use. What size?
Parts List:
Motor - ebay.to/2Yy2qtp
Chain - ebay.to/2V35TxK
Sprocket - ebay.to/2Fwux3o
Sprocket - ebay.to/2TZ5kIS
28t rear sprocket would get you nice top end
Good call
So how many watts is the new motor you put on .?
500 watts!
Parts List:
Motor - ebay.to/2Yy2qtp
Chain - ebay.to/2V35TxK
Sprocket - ebay.to/2Fwux3o
Sprocket - ebay.to/2TZ5kIS
TK how do you modify the E225
So why did u change the sprocket
Better gearing for more speed! Unfortunately it was cancelled out by the slower rotating motor.
I do more gearing changes in later videos :)
So was the motor slower or was the size of the sprocket on the motor the issue
Potato Hamlin the motor spun at lower RPM, removing any gains the new gearing would have given in top speed
Got about 25mph from it til i broke both my arms.
Oh no, ouch!
Why not go with a brushless motor instead?
A few reasons! One, I know I've got a capable brushed controller in the scooter already so a motor upgrade is simple. Brushless I'd have to identify a suitable combo of controller and motor which isn't the easiest, especially when dealing with land vehicles requiring high starting torques (I know from experience). Two, it was a fairly simple job to mount the bigger brushed unit. Mucking around with brushless outrunners and inrunners can be a real pain as they've all got different weird ways of mounting which would require much more fabrication and mucking around.
Well, My 500W motor is installed. Not as smooth as your operation. I ground a bit off the motor in the hope i would not have to hammer the frame much. It still required a few wacks. I used an anvil but still managed to totally warp the frame. Anyone attempting this take care because it has taken hours to get rite. I'm having a break, :)
Ahaha, it's a big job. Hope it's going well for ya!
@@WhatUpTKHere Yer it's taking shape thanks mate. Not looking forward to the brakes. Also the 36v 1000w controller i bought, does not really have the beans. The hacked standard one felt like it had more power. There is no shunt in it though, possibly a resistor instead? i think i need to replace it or either add fets like you did. Thanks Dood.
the belt brake that seems to be used on the rear wheel is not that great for the forces that you will be doing... better use a disk break, or get a drum break...
Robert Ostman yeah, I'm not a fan of the belt brake either, but without a machine shop I'm not super well kitted out to do so
if you are in the USA you could call mr tig time, or one of the other youtubers who have the tig welding machine, if they can't do it or wont, they may know who could... my scooter used a belt break... and it failed in probably les than 30 days... yet consider that I was living in downtown seattle taking those steep hills killed the breaks, I even had to resort to force a "controlled" fall one day... cos the darn thing would not stop.. when this happend I was speeding at about 30km/hr... survived... but my clothes were rags after that...
I cringe every time I see you install the chain tensioner WRONG!!!
jatokilla I was talking to the video saying the same thing! If the tensioner and chain were installed properly he wouldn’t of had issues with it being too tight or jumping off in that manner!
@@Inyauz I'm cringing Too. Ahhh!!!!
Why not use a master killswitch. Instead of manually pulling the killfuse
Switches to handle that voltage and current of DC are big, bulky, and difficult to switch off in a hurry when you're careening along at 35 km/h. Relays can do it, but it's messy. This is cheap, easy, and effective in emergency situations.
What Up TK Here i see ahaha silly me. is it just a prototype? Or a permanent kill switch?
Yeah it's kinda prototypey, I'd want something better if this was a vehicle I rode every day
So interesting I subscribed lol .I too love escooters.
They're fun!
I am sorry but that sprocket will liwer the top speed to raise the top speed swith back the sprockets and put a bigger one on the motor
If you study this and then the following episode, I explain the motor and gear choices and the effects on speed in detail.
The smaller rear sprocket does increase top speed because gearing is about ratios. However, we lost some speed in this episode because the new motor is turning slower than the old motor (despite being more powerful). To counteract this, in the next episode, we further tweak the ratio by installing a bigger sprocket on the motor. This helps to counteract the new motor's lower output speed.
3:41. Actuating the brake, not activating it. It was already activated (operative).
Tubeless tyres?
Could be good!
Want to race? Gotta install same motor on mine soon lol
Ahaha mine is in bits right now! Update soon
*WHY NOT *CHANGE THE TIRE VALVE* *IF YA AINT GOT THAT TOOL IT CAN BE A ISSUE* *CATER*
*Hey Fred,Ya Bill,We forgot to line the Valve up.Well darn it again,Drill a darn hole through it bill and we will make a extender and make more money.Uhhh,Ok* *CATER*
*But it still is a Hooky set up* *It looks like a child designed & built it*NO WONDER IT BROKE AND NEVER MADE IT A FULL MILE* *CATER*
You are quite angry!
@@WhatUpTKHere *WHAT* *How is that Angry*?????IF U OWNED ONE U WOULD NO WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT*
The rpm increases of these motors is disappointing at first. You need to up the gear ratio to take advantage of motor strength.
Absolutely, I had to do that in the following episodes.