Thanks Robert, my 17 year old son got my Tahoe in a divorce and moved to Florida. I've been trying to find a descriptive video to send him as hes having the same issue. Appreciate it man
Brother these are the comments I like to hear! Its so motivating when I hear that a video I made really helped somebody out. This is the reason I originally started this channel! I know videos like this dont really pull subscribers or anything but if they save people some time and money then I'd rather do this than the vlog stuff anyday!!! Of course Im still going to do both though,lol.
You did good, Oscar. I probably would've pulled the intake and got rid of that heat shield garbage so it wouldn't be in the way next time. Hope you had fun at Myrtle Beach 2 years ago.
I just did this on my 07 tahoe. It has a pain squeezing my hand behind that heat shield. I lost some skin but a doable job. I would suggest removing the vap line on both sides as I snapped my off because of it was constantly in the way. I was able to salvage it but it added another 30 minutes to my fix. Thanks for the video.
Heat shield comment yall ALL have been waiting for... cut the f....ker off! (Sorry for the language) Great video bud. I did it 35 minutes start to completion thanks bro.
Hello I have a 5.3 2013 avalanche I replace oil pump with high volume pump I replaced pickup tube and I replaced oil pressure sensor and filter I hooked up an external oil pressure gauge on the side of the block where the oil pump is cold start I had 80 psi warmed up to 210 and idled at 59 psi if I have this kind of oil pressure why does my oil pressure in the car say I have no oil pressure I have noises in the motor no ticks at the lifters runs smooth and lots of power any advice at this point would be good thanks.
The intake is smaller on the older trucks, so it is not in the way as much, but also does not flow as well. Then there is the rear shield.... That thing will be coming off or at least getting a trim at the first opportunity.
This was very helpful for me, and now that I have the knowledge of how to do it, scheduling an appointment with my mechanic. I like doing my research on RUclips, always right on time for me, pushing to get more out of my 2007 Avalanche.
Yea I bought that tool like five years ago and have fought with it every time I’ve used it. I finally trashed it and went and bought a set of better ones.
Let me ask you this. Have a 6.0 in a express van. Sometimes zero oil pressure at startup. And stays at zero unless you rev it. Then pressure is good until you shut down. I replaced the pick up tube o ring and that didn't fix it. Any ideas?
My father 2007 Yukon oil pressure gauge doesn't move at all also it doesn't light up at night. No funny sounds or knocking coming from the engine. Could it be just a problem with instrument cluster gauge?
I have the same engine and I don't have pressure but I know the pump is fine because no knocking. I changed the sending unit still no pressure. What are other common issues with do this thanks?
If you have verified oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as suggested in the video, and have checked or replaced all three items suggested in the video, then your gauge is most likely faulty.
A very common, known issue on GM trucks is the DOD solenoids leaking, causing low oil pressure. I have seen brand new trucks with very low oil pressure. The fix, at least for me, was to do away with the DOD all together. Now my 210,000 mile Silverado isles at 50 psi and pushes close to 70 psi cruising down the highway.
yea I keep waiting for DOD issues on this one. No real oil pressure issues yet but I may do a dod delete and put a small cam in soon. This one has over 100k and has always had great oil pressure. 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips, I replaced the sensor and got nothing, but didn't cross my mind the pig tail, that might do it almost for sure. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
If it doesn’t then you may actually have a real oil pressure situation! If the the pigtail still doesn’t do it then I HIGHLY suggest checking your pressure with a mechanical gauge before driving the vehicle anymore.
Rather than bad luck, you were quite lucky that it was the sending unit. Most of the time, it is the crap under the intake manifold bleeding the oil pressure away....I'm living that nightmare now...well for the last 3 weeks and counting!
I have a 2007 Suburban 1500 5.3 L vortec which has a similar problem. It had trouble with oil pressure reading low quite some time ago, but it also had the AFM issue and I replaced the lifter a couple of times before I decided to buy the kit that replaces the cam and puts a new cover without the AFM stuff on it. When I finished it and got the PCM re-written, I was able to get the vehicle started and after awhile it ran well. I took it for a drive and it had several codes so I reset them and drove it some more. The codes did not return. Then I began to get P0521 error codes. The oil pressure is 40 psi at start up, revs to 80 psi or so and when hot it appears to be around 20 psi at idle. So I put a mechanical gauge on it which showed 36 psi but some air was in the line, too. The point was that the pressure was there just as the other gauge indicated. That made me decide that the sender must be the culprit and I replaced it. Alas, I had similar problems to get it out, but the worst came when the new one slipped out of my fingers and onto the cover plate under the intake manifold. I finally gave up trying to retrieve it and removed the intake manifold - it was stuck between the foam and the edge of the manifold. Now I got it all back together and started it - works like a champ. Took it for a drive - no error code. Fixed! Wrong! I took it for another spin a day later and sure enough, the error was back! I hear no clicking or engine noises that indicate low pressure, the engine gauges say the pressure is there, but the PCM says that the voltages are wrong. I checked the voltages between 2 and 3 and between the pins to ground. 0 volts all around with power off and 5 volts from 2 to ground and from 2 to 3 with power on. 1 and 3 to ground are both 0 volts as expected. Unless I got a bad sender unit, it should be ok. So what is it? If I pull the timing chain cover and replace the oil pump, nine chances out of ten there will be no improvement in oil pressure.
Hey my dads avalanche is a 08 and it’s doing the same thing the engine runs smooth n no noise can you help what do I need to get for it, what are the little parts I have to buy thanks
My Sierra lifters tick only when the truck is idling. But when normal driving etc. the ticking goes away. I'm thinking it could be the oil pressure sending unit. But I don't know how to diagnose.
The symptoms I mentioned in the video are usually a dead giveaway but the best way to know for sure is to unscrew the sending unit and use a mechanical gauge to check your oil pressure.
I just bought a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with 80,000 miles on it. I was driving it home and the oil pressure was at 40psi, and about 20 monitors on my way, my oil pressure dropped down to 20 psi and slowly went down to 0. I pulled over and shut it down and started it up and then continued home. It stayed at 35 the rest of the way home. What do you think? I’m thinking it is probably the sensor. I’m not sure though. Oil is level is good.
I’m putting a 04 Silverado Lm7 into a 03 Jeep Wrangler and it’s definitely easier to get to the sensor on the 04 in the Jeep then it is in your vehicle keep up the great work and videos
Yea everything’s usually easier to get to in a swap. Sometimes it feels like GM does this shot on purpose. 😂 Have you seen my video on replacing the speakers in a 5th gen Camaro? 🤦♂️
Bad Luck Garage No I haven’t watched it but I can imagine the only vehicle that I’ve found easy to change speakers in is my Jeep you can to everything with a screwdriver and torx bit
Yea in the 5th gen Camaro you have to start at the side panels next to the front seat and removes EVERYTHING from there back just to be able to remove the rear deck to get to the speakers. It was pretty ridiculous.
I have the same issue replaced sensor Only when it’s cold is around 40 but if engine is hot is around 20 pressure goes up when car is moving Any idea idea what’s wrong??? Thank you very much❗️
While 20psi warm seems low, it is still well within GM specifications. As an engine wears, bearing clearances will increase and will cause oil pressure to be lower. As long as it increases with engine speed, 20 psi at idle is acceptable.
I have had 3 oil pressure sending units in my truck never fixed the problem. Called my mechanic who got info from a retired gm master tech. If your oil pressure sending unit does not fix the problem you might as well replace the pick up tube, pick up tube o-ring and your oil pump. I say the oil pump because there is a spring regulator inside it that gets wore out and starts sticking. And the other problem people have is the pick up tube o-ring. I dont believe there is really a cheap way to fix this if your sending unit is not the problem. My mechanic said this is a 12 book hr job on my 2010 Silverado so either bust your wallet out or dump the truck!
Mine starts at 43 psi then works its way down. What could it be . we have replaced the small filter screen . helped a little then the issue happened again.
Very good info. I was wondering how else one can see if your truck has oil pressure. Meaning clicks. Meters etc. Thanks again. This helped a lot! I have a 2016 Chevy truck and I believe the sensor is up front per another utuber.
I wonder if a slight bit of jacking up on rear of engine underneath might flex motor mounts just enough to get a half inch better access. That shroud is totally useless and there’s a 10 mm nut behind that holds it on. GM should be responsible for free of charge fix for letting such a stupid design out the door. Let’s hide a vital to computer operational part that’s prone to false readings in the most inaccessible place possible,,, great let’s run with that.
I will. This vehicle isn’t one of my build projects though so the videos will mainly be general maintenance and towing upgrades. That type of thing. This is primarily our family vehicle and is also used to pull the project cars to the track when we race. 👍🏻 There is a desperate playlist just for “Abby” though. So when I do videos on it you can easily find them there. 😉
Replaced my oil pressure sensor in my 2012 1500, now I still have no oil pressure but sounds fine and it is throwing a map sensor code. So I replaced that and still throws the code I also put a new pigtail on the map sensor still no oil pressure and wont run
No clue brother. Every mechanic is different in how they set their rates. I make these videos so that people can do things themselves and not have to worry about what a mechanic charges. 😉
A mechanic just quoted me almost $300 for this job. It includes oil change. I said no thanks. I ordered the sensor , filter and the special socket for less than 50 bucks from Amazon.
Great video man! Definitely gonna change the oil pressure sending unit in my 5.3 when I get it on the stand. I can't wait to tear into my 5.3 mostly cause I wanna pull the valve cover and see if they have the castech battery logo.. unfortunately locally it's about 200 to have them pressure tested, which isn't bad till you realize if look hard enough on eBay you'll find 799 heads for $350 to 400..
Man I wish mine had 243s.. I'm trying to be SUPER cheap with the 5.3 cause I'm building the whole truck at the same time so most of my budget is going into my Dana and my 4l80.. Figured if I build the rear end and the transmission right, i can deal with a stockish 5.3 so I can drive it while i save some money to build a 6.0 with some good flowing heads
I’ve actually thought about just buying an LS2 block and pistons and transferring the heads, crank, rods, etc over from this LC9 and deleting dod and running a stage 1 BTR truck cam. Then throwing that in the Avalanche for some more pulling power for the big family hauler. It really wouldn’t be that big of an undertaking and would basically be an LS2 at that point but with a tad more cam and a way better intake manifold. Who knows what might happen in the future. 😉
My buddy has a 07 tbss with a stock ls2 it Scoots along real well lol.. if you can find a cheap ls2 block do it.. but I'm a pennie pinching bastard and don't see the benefits of an aluminum block in a truck out weighing the cost vs an iron block.. If it was your uncle's nova then hell yeah
You can buy a brand new LS2 block for around $1100. All I would need would be the block and pistons...everything else would transfer over. Just something I been kicking around.
Must be a stupid Ford guy to think ls motors are junk lol any1 with a tiny fraction of brain knows that's an absolute lie but to be a Ford guy you have to be born without a brain so we forgive you
Myrtle Beach native here, thanks for the shout out!
Thanks Robert, my 17 year old son got my Tahoe in a divorce and moved to Florida. I've been trying to find a descriptive video to send him as hes having the same issue. Appreciate it man
Brother these are the comments I like to hear! Its so motivating when I hear that a video I made really helped somebody out. This is the reason I originally started this channel! I know videos like this dont really pull subscribers or anything but if they save people some time and money then I'd rather do this than the vlog stuff anyday!!! Of course Im still going to do both though,lol.
Thanks!
Thank you sir! But you really didn’t have to do that!
Right on Robert! Well done Bud!
I actually trimmed around that plastic ,using a small hacksaw, and haven't had any issues.
That’s definitely a good tip. 👍🏻
I was tempted to do that too earlier when I was scoping out the job. I will tomorrow now, thanks!
You did good, Oscar. I probably would've pulled the intake and got rid of that heat shield garbage so it wouldn't be in the way next time. Hope you had fun at Myrtle Beach 2 years ago.
I just did this on my 07 tahoe. It has a pain squeezing my hand behind that heat shield. I lost some skin but a doable job. I would suggest removing the vap line on both sides as I snapped my off because of it was constantly in the way. I was able to salvage it but it added another 30 minutes to my fix. Thanks for the video.
Hello Bryan Kraus, Thanks for watching! Im glad this video helped you out!
Have you ever had a problem with engine reduced power and service stabilitrak and service traction control
Heat shield comment yall ALL have been waiting for... cut the f....ker off! (Sorry for the language) Great video bud. I did it 35 minutes start to completion thanks bro.
Next task in list… can’t get good angle
Hello I have a 5.3 2013 avalanche I replace oil pump with high volume pump I replaced pickup tube and I replaced oil pressure sensor and filter I hooked up an external oil pressure gauge on the side of the block where the oil pump is cold start I had 80 psi warmed up to 210 and idled at 59 psi if I have this kind of oil pressure why does my oil pressure in the car say I have no oil pressure I have noises in the motor no ticks at the lifters runs smooth and lots of power any advice at this point would be good thanks.
The intake is smaller on the older trucks, so it is not in the way as much, but also does not flow as well. Then there is the rear shield.... That thing will be coming off or at least getting a trim at the first opportunity.
Yea the earlier trucks are actually a piece of cake.
Thanks guys....very helpful....my 08 silverado gauge dropping ...thanks again brotha....
AWESOME informative video! Thank you!!
My oil pressure gauge just sits at 0 at start up and reving. Dont move at all on my 2007 chevy silverado? No engine tickings or sounds, any ideas?
ruclips.net/video/iZ1kKGC5vrI/видео.html
This was very helpful for me, and now that I have the knowledge of how to do it, scheduling an appointment with my mechanic. I like doing my research on RUclips, always right on time for me, pushing to get more out of my 2007 Avalanche.
I’m glad you found this helpful brother. 👍
whats the purpose for the heat shield?@@BadLuckGarage
Handy tips bro... those cheap parts buying bastard double trips to supercheap really rip my undies to.
Yea I bought that tool like five years ago and have fought with it every time I’ve used it. I finally trashed it and went and bought a set of better ones.
Ok. Now the hard part. What if you hear the engine noises? What to do
1993 GMC Sierra 3500 Gas 7.4L
Dash Board Oil Pressure Gage @-5? Lmk the options?
The options are fix it or dont
@@BadLuckGarage Ok. To fix it.
Let me ask you this. Have a 6.0 in a express van. Sometimes zero oil pressure at startup. And stays at zero unless you rev it. Then pressure is good until you shut down. I replaced the pick up tube o ring and that didn't fix it. Any ideas?
Replaced the sensor but still erratic. What now?
I did this on my sister's Tahoe blind with an extension and swivel helped that I just layed on the intake. Good info. Keep em' coming.
Thanks for watching Jeremy!
My father 2007 Yukon oil pressure gauge doesn't move at all also it doesn't light up at night. No funny sounds or knocking coming from the engine. Could it be just a problem with instrument cluster gauge?
Thats what it sounds like.
I have the same engine and I don't have pressure but I know the pump is fine because no knocking. I changed the sending unit still no pressure. What are other common issues with do this thanks?
If you have verified oil pressure with a mechanical gauge as suggested in the video, and have checked or replaced all three items suggested in the video, then your gauge is most likely faulty.
A very common, known issue on GM trucks is the DOD solenoids leaking, causing low oil pressure. I have seen brand new trucks with very low oil pressure. The fix, at least for me, was to do away with the DOD all together. Now my 210,000 mile Silverado isles at 50 psi and pushes close to 70 psi cruising down the highway.
yea I keep waiting for DOD issues on this one. No real oil pressure issues yet but I may do a dod delete and put a small cam in soon. This one has over 100k and has always had great oil pressure. 👍🏻
Thanks for the tips, I replaced the sensor and got nothing, but didn't cross my mind the pig tail, that might do it almost for sure. Thanks for the video, very helpful.
If it doesn’t then you may actually have a real oil pressure situation! If the the pigtail still doesn’t do it then I HIGHLY suggest checking your pressure with a mechanical gauge before driving the vehicle anymore.
Rather than bad luck, you were quite lucky that it was the sending unit. Most of the time, it is the crap under the intake manifold bleeding the oil pressure away....I'm living that nightmare now...well for the last 3 weeks and counting!
Excellent video I have the same issue fixing it tomorrow thanks a bunch... new sub🤠👍
I’m having the same problem what is the issue
I have a 2007 Suburban 1500 5.3 L vortec which has a similar problem. It had trouble with oil pressure reading low quite some time ago, but it also had the AFM issue and I replaced the lifter a couple of times before I decided to buy the kit that replaces the cam and puts a new cover without the AFM stuff on it. When I finished it and got the PCM re-written, I was able to get the vehicle started and after awhile it ran well. I took it for a drive and it had several codes so I reset them and drove it some more. The codes did not return.
Then I began to get P0521 error codes. The oil pressure is 40 psi at start up, revs to 80 psi or so and when hot it appears to be around 20 psi at idle. So I put a mechanical gauge on it which showed 36 psi but some air was in the line, too. The point was that the pressure was there just as the other gauge indicated. That made me decide that the sender must be the culprit and I replaced it. Alas, I had similar problems to get it out, but the worst came when the new one slipped out of my fingers and onto the cover plate under the intake manifold. I finally gave up trying to retrieve it and removed the intake manifold - it was stuck between the foam and the edge of the manifold.
Now I got it all back together and started it - works like a champ. Took it for a drive - no error code. Fixed! Wrong! I took it for another spin a day later and sure enough, the error was back! I hear no clicking or engine noises that indicate low pressure, the engine gauges say the pressure is there, but the PCM says that the voltages are wrong. I checked the voltages between 2 and 3 and between the pins to ground. 0 volts all around with power off and 5 volts from 2 to ground and from 2 to 3 with power on. 1 and 3 to ground are both 0 volts as expected. Unless I got a bad sender unit, it should be ok. So what is it?
If I pull the timing chain cover and replace the oil pump, nine chances out of ten there will be no improvement in oil pressure.
2021, your situation was probably the oil pickup tube which you have to drop the oil pan to do that.
The oil pressure gauge on my 2002 GMC sierra drop zero and two minutes later the engine starts ticking, So what’s the problem with my truck?
Sounds like you don’t have any oil pressure.
Hey my dads avalanche is a 08 and it’s doing the same thing the engine runs smooth n no noise can you help what do I need to get for it, what are the little parts I have to buy thanks
If you determine your issue is the sensor then need the parts shown in the video.
My Sierra lifters tick only when the truck is idling. But when normal driving etc. the ticking goes away. I'm thinking it could be the oil pressure sending unit. But I don't know how to diagnose.
The symptoms I mentioned in the video are usually a dead giveaway but the best way to know for sure is to unscrew the sending unit and use a mechanical gauge to check your oil pressure.
@@BadLuckGarage I replaced my sensor unit in my 2008 and it still read zero psi..... what do you suggest to replace the oil pump.
Read my reply that you just posted under.
@@terrancewilliams2326 there is a ball valve in the oil pan, read up on it
I just bought a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with 80,000 miles on it. I was driving it home and the oil pressure was at 40psi, and about 20 monitors on my way, my oil pressure dropped down to 20 psi and slowly went down to 0. I pulled over and shut it down and started it up and then continued home. It stayed at 35 the rest of the way home. What do you think? I’m thinking it is probably the sensor. I’m not sure though. Oil is level is good.
Diagnose with a mechanical gauge
did you ever find the fix? mines doing the same thing.
@@DerDerFlippy it was the oil pressure sensor
I’m putting a 04 Silverado Lm7 into a 03 Jeep Wrangler and it’s definitely easier to get to the sensor on the 04 in the Jeep then it is in your vehicle keep up the great work and videos
Yea everything’s usually easier to get to in a swap. Sometimes it feels like GM does this shot on purpose. 😂 Have you seen my video on replacing the speakers in a 5th gen Camaro? 🤦♂️
Bad Luck Garage No I haven’t watched it but I can imagine the only vehicle that I’ve found easy to change speakers in is my Jeep you can to everything with a screwdriver and torx bit
Yea in the 5th gen Camaro you have to start at the side panels next to the front seat and removes EVERYTHING from there back just to be able to remove the rear deck to get to the speakers. It was pretty ridiculous.
I have the same issue replaced sensor
Only when it’s cold is around 40 but if engine is hot is around 20 pressure goes up when car is moving
Any idea idea what’s wrong???
Thank you very much❗️
While 20psi warm seems low, it is still well within GM specifications. As an engine wears, bearing clearances will increase and will cause oil pressure to be lower. As long as it increases with engine speed, 20 psi at idle is acceptable.
I have a 2001 Chevy with a vortex 4.3 6 cy every time I turn on the truck it dies right away and it has a light that says check oil pressure any tips?
Yes, check the oil pressure. 😉
I have had 3 oil pressure sending units in my truck never fixed the problem. Called my mechanic who got info from a retired gm master tech. If your oil pressure sending unit does not fix the problem you might as well replace the pick up tube, pick up tube o-ring and your oil pump. I say the oil pump because there is a spring regulator inside it that gets wore out and starts sticking. And the other problem people have is the pick up tube o-ring. I dont believe there is really a cheap way to fix this if your sending unit is not the problem. My mechanic said this is a 12 book hr job on my 2010 Silverado so either bust your wallet out or dump the truck!
GM should recall these Piece of shit motors for that issue
What if it just stopped working
Same procedure
mine is always on zero all the time. is it tge gauge or the sensor ?
Diagnose it and find out. 🤷🏼♂️
Mine starts at 43 psi then works its way down. What could it be . we have replaced the small filter screen . helped a little then the issue happened again.
oil pick up tube o ring. replace the oil pan gasket while you're at it.
Mine too. These motors are junk
Very good info. I was wondering how else one can see if your truck has oil pressure.
Meaning clicks. Meters etc.
Thanks again.
This helped a lot!
I have a 2016 Chevy truck and I believe the sensor is up front per another utuber.
Remove the sending unit and attach a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
I wonder if a slight bit of jacking up on rear of engine underneath might flex motor mounts just enough to get a half inch better access. That shroud is totally useless and there’s a 10 mm nut behind that holds it on.
GM should be responsible for free of charge fix for letting such a stupid design out the door.
Let’s hide a vital to computer operational part that’s prone to false readings in the most inaccessible place possible,,, great let’s run with that.
Will you be doing more 07avalanche videos
I will. This vehicle isn’t one of my build projects though so the videos will mainly be general maintenance and towing upgrades. That type of thing. This is primarily our family vehicle and is also used to pull the project cars to the track when we race. 👍🏻 There is a desperate playlist just for “Abby” though. So when I do videos on it you can easily find them there. 😉
Replaced my oil pressure sensor in my 2012 1500, now I still have no oil pressure but sounds fine and it is throwing a map sensor code. So I replaced that and still throws the code I also put a new pigtail on the map sensor still no oil pressure and wont run
I cut that stupid heat shield and thing went easy.
Yea getting that out of the way helps a lot. Lol
Thanks bro,, this is a great to do video
Glad you liked it
Good Video! Thanks!
Glad it helped!
How much does a mechanic charge to do this?
No clue brother. Every mechanic is different in how they set their rates. I make these videos so that people can do things themselves and not have to worry about what a mechanic charges. 😉
A mechanic just quoted me almost $300 for this job. It includes oil change. I said no thanks. I ordered the sensor , filter and the special socket for less than 50 bucks from Amazon.
Great video man!
Definitely gonna change the oil pressure sending unit in my 5.3 when I get it on the stand.
I can't wait to tear into my 5.3 mostly cause I wanna pull the valve cover and see if they have the castech battery logo..
unfortunately locally it's about 200 to have them pressure tested, which isn't bad till you realize if look hard enough on eBay you'll find 799 heads for $350 to 400..
Yea this avalanche actually has 243s on it. If I ever total this thing the engines gonna find its way into something stupid small. 😂
Man I wish mine had 243s..
I'm trying to be SUPER cheap with the 5.3 cause I'm building the whole truck at the same time so most of my budget is going into my Dana and my 4l80..
Figured if I build the rear end and the transmission right, i can deal with a stockish 5.3 so I can drive it while i save some money to build a 6.0 with some good flowing heads
I’ve actually thought about just buying an LS2 block and pistons and transferring the heads, crank, rods, etc over from this LC9 and deleting dod and running a stage 1 BTR truck cam. Then throwing that in the Avalanche for some more pulling power for the big family hauler. It really wouldn’t be that big of an undertaking and would basically be an LS2 at that point but with a tad more cam and a way better intake manifold. Who knows what might happen in the future. 😉
My buddy has a 07 tbss with a stock ls2 it Scoots along real well lol..
if you can find a cheap ls2 block do it.. but I'm a pennie pinching bastard and don't see the benefits of an aluminum block in a truck out weighing the cost vs an iron block..
If it was your uncle's nova then hell yeah
You can buy a brand new LS2 block for around $1100. All I would need would be the block and pistons...everything else would transfer over. Just something I been kicking around.
Cool vid
Thanks brother.
All that to change a sensor. Piece of junk LS motors. I have low oil pressure but its not a sensor.
Thanks for watching! Glad this video helped you out!
Must be a stupid Ford guy to think ls motors are junk lol any1 with a tiny fraction of brain knows that's an absolute lie but to be a Ford guy you have to be born without a brain so we forgive you
👍👍
Good luck with the Chinese parts. Spend the extra money and get an original AC Delco sensor.
Thanks for watching. Glad this video helped you out!
Bet you’re glad you found this video to help you out.
Dude you are so lucky you had this video to help you figure out how to do this. I know I was. Thanks @BadLuckGarage