It worked for me! Thanks! I changed the oil pressure sending unit and filter, still showing low oil pressure. I continued with your advice by flushing the system the same aditive ( Motor Flush ). Beautiful! Great informative video. Thank you
I have a 2009 5.3 pickup, I had this exact same problem, I went directly to the motor flush and it worked. I used the Liqui-Molly, about 1.25 cans (about quarter of a second can, since we’re treating more volume) and the problem was gone! I did a second flush since I had the materials, the time and the relatively decent weather (for late November) and the crud that came out was remarkable. I replaced the second flush with 5/30 full synthetic & I intend to do another flush & change in 3k miles.
Great to hear. I think my real problem was the oil pressure filter screen. Dont get me wrong, the flush I’m sure helped, but think the screen was huge.
I had this happen to me and learned that the oil screen is rather small and even though the engine seemed clean the screen was partly clogged. One person even pulled the pan and cleaned the screen the correct way. I did not want to take it out of service so I added a cup of Marvel Mistry Oil and drove it a few hundred miles then changed oil. It never dropped again and think that it cleaned the screen. Something to think about. Your truck sounds great.
My 5.3 ecotec was running very rough with a very loud rattling, ticking, pinging bag of crap so I deactivated the cylinder deactivation feature & ran loads of seafoam and marvel mystery oil through it. Now I run 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w20 and it runs absolutely perfect.
Last year I was having issues I changed sensor and filter. .it went away for about a year today light came back on . And gauge needle kept on jumping , thanks for your great quality well explained video.
I used motor medic - 8 minutes idle while the front end was on a jack. Changed oil and went back to ac delco oil filter, new sending unit, and its running like new. 40-60 lbs
Most likely the screen on the pickup tube or the check valve in the pump. It was blocked just enough that it could not suck up the oil. Cleaning it got it clean enough to work. You may want to flush every time you change your oil in the future. Also your oil pressure is not higher than before, it just reads higher because of a slight difference in the new sending unit. The high reading does make you feel better however! Great video. I had oiling troubles on a ‘75 Ford 350 in a Club Van. The oil return tubes became clogged that return oil to the pan. You could drive about 3 miles and then all the oil was stuck in the valve covers. After 4 hours of cleaning all the gunk from the intake and valves, the only oil I pour into anything is Mobile One!!! Thanks for reminding me of my 50 year old story. Loved my old van too! -KB
I wish mine would have been this simple of a fix. I had the same problem on my 2001 Tahoe 5.3 LS. On the highway, pressure dropped to ZERO. Shut it off immediately. I could start it back up and like you said, the pressure would go back up then slowly drop back to ZERO. When the pressure dropped, the motor would start tapping, which is a good indication that it is not the pressure switch or screen (so i was told). I was too far from home (about 20 miles) to do the "creep it home" method, because the pressure would only hold at 40psi for about 30 seconds. So, i had it towed home. I tried the motor flush, the Marvel Mystery, oil and filter change...and nothing. So i knew it had to be the oil pump. This was a 341,000 mile motor. Luckily, i had a backup car and i slowly bought parts to do the oil pump change. I got the Melling pump (with the blue spring). Replaced the o-ring and all the gaskets. It took me a whole weekend. Now, i have about 50-65 psi of pressure all the time. I have put about 8,000 miles on the vehicle since the pump swap (now at 349,200 miles) and the engine still purrs like a kitten. These engines will run forever if handled with care. I just wish my situation would have been as easy as yours. Lol..sorry for the long comment! Great video!
Those early models didn’t have these oil pressure problems (I owned 3 of them) it’s only the 07’s and up. And with that many miles in the engine it’s for sure the oil pump. I hope it all worked out for you.
I’ll admit I was about to swipe just because of all the talking and not getting to the point. However I had the same issue with my Sierra. Changed pour the flush in changed the oil and bam 55 psi at idle. Thank you!
Id highly recommend you switch to 10w30 especially if you live in a warmer climate. It has slightly heavier molecules compared with 5w30 which could thin out especially when the engine gets hot like during hill climbs on the interstate etc. A 10w30 will not thin out as easily or cause low oil pressure and can usually take a bigger beating from a hot engine. I use Amsoil 10w30 Signature Series and an Amsoil filter that filters 99% at 20 microns. I can tell you care deeply about your engine and truck. Youve got nothing to worry about. Your engine is a gem.☺
Thanks for the heads up on that. I’ve read that 10w30 would increase oil pressure but I’ve not heard of People doing it. Good to know it’s worked for you and I definitely may give that a try in the summer.
@@x-coastie No worries.....the important number is your operational temp weight which is 30. Thats number you should not change. The winter weight is dependent on your climate. But even then.....the pour point of 10w30 mobil1 EP is around -43 and Amsoil SS -47......so youre good even then. Cheers.
I did this with my 08 silverado with a 4.8, it worked great as a temporary fix, definitely increased oil pressure. Still would occasionally drop and flip the sensor. I just changed back to 5w30 on my last oil change and can hardly move it without the light coming on now. Which is why i am here watching this video. Unfortunately my LS model did not come with the oil pressure gauge on the dash.
So if I use 10w30 on my 5.3 with AFM I should be good? I use 10w30 on my 00 Silverado but I have an 2010 and I’ve been told not to use 10w30 cause of the AFM.
I also replaced the o ring on the oil pickup tube. Gained 5 to 8 lbs of pressure. O ring was hard with flat sealing surface that wasn’t plyable. It actually broke as I was taking it off the pickup tube.
The o ring on the oil pickup tube is probably bad as well. I would drop the oil pan and replace it and you will gain some oil pressure. I just had the same issue with my wife’s 09 Tahoe with the 5.3. It was definitely the problem for me. It’s worth it to take the little bit of time to do this job.
I should have mentioned in the video that I had already done that. A few years back I went through everything to update the truck. I did a coolant flush, a power steering flush, rear end gear oil change, and at the same time I did the o-ring because someone mentioned that would be a good idea. So I did and I could tell a difference for sure in the oil pressure. But even before I did that it never went below below the 20 psi under any condition. But good call bringing that up.
Just bought my brother's 09 tahoe with the 5.3. Same issue, low oil pressure shortly after driving, warning ding and light comes on to shut it down. No engine knocking or anything. Were you able to drop the oil pan on the ground ? Looks like it's pretty tight clearance under there even on jack stands. I don't have access to a lift so I'm debating how to proceed. Thanks
@@savr4429 lol... You should try dropping a pan on the 4x4! I'm not too sure raising the engine off the mounts might be easier! If not, it's diff and rack. Big job just to drop a damn pan for a friggen O ring!
All I have to say is that truck is one clean truck with age and mileage. Living in northeast I could never keep a vehicle looking so good. An aside, still keep using 5w-30, manufacturers recommended oil grade is the only way to go.
I just recently had this happen to my 08 Suburban. i changed my oil first ( because it needed to be change). And i change my Oil pressure switch and filter on it and it worked. before i found out what it was, I took it to the dealer and of course they wanted to change everything including the oil pump for over 6000.00 dollars. so i save alot of money.
It’s the full synthetic oil that congeals over time especially with that mileage. I’ve stayed up to date with PM work and have similar mileage…run ac delco oil filter with 10 40 weight oil
Apparently there is a TSB for the p0521 code on these engines and the fix is to use AC Delco UPF48R instead of the PF48. I’ve replaced the oil pressure switch on our Tahoe and it fixed the issue for a while but then P0521 came up. Oil pressure still reads but it’s around 20 when warmed up instead of 40. So I’m gonna try this upgrade filter and hopefully it fixes the code
@@x-coastie It did thankfully. If anyone reading this is getting P0521, consider changing the oil filter to AC Delco UPF48R or equivalent Mobil 1 M1-113.
this also happens when trunnion needle bearings come outta the stock rocker arms. my car had this happen before i did afm delete. replaced rocker arms with better ones and no more needle bearings to think about.
Thanks I’m gonna try this on my wife’s suburban we were 150 miles from home and the oil pressure went to zero my jaw hit the floor. I will never use cheap oil and filters after this.
Thank you for posting this! I had the low oil pressure issue and looked around at various websites and videos to understand the different scenarios others were facing. Since I have run full synthetic for several years in our 2013 Suburban, I opted to not do the engine/oil flush as the synthetic oil "theoretically" is supposed to keep things clean. I replaced the oil with Mobil 1 and used the AC Delco oil filter. At start up, oil pressure went right to 60 lbs, settled in at 40 lbs under lower rpms until fully warmed up and then 30-35 lbs at idle when warmed up. Oil pressure response was immediate. Hopefully this is all it was. The low oil pressure issue came up about 4000 miles from the last oil change.
Oil Pan pick up tube O ring is probably going bad and needs to be replaced its common, another common issue is the Cam Bearings can move and if they due you lose pressure. Also always use a GM Sensor after markets are not as accurate.
Had the same thing happen to me one day, mine is a 4.3 v6 - I panicked and shut it off and pulled over checked the level etc all looked good. Started back up all sounding fine I drove it home, my oil pressure switch had been changed some time before due to leaking - I found there is an oil level switch on the side of the block just a cheesy little level sensor, changed that out and have never seen that warning again. I always use good grade oil and either wixxp or k&n filters
Thanks for the information this helped me out a lot. If my 2013 Sierra sits still for 5+ weeks it shows low oil and I had the sensor replaced 2 twice. Flushed my engine like you said and changed the oil after the flush and not problems. Saved me at least $450. THANKS
You should replace the O-ring on the oil suction tube for the oil pump because after 200,000 miles those O-rings go flat or they start to crack so if you lose oil pressure again, you know what the check.
When this happened, a year or two before I had already changed the oil pickup o-ring. That’s why this video didn’t cover that as a possible issue because I knew that wasn’t the problem. I should have mentioned that in the video.
I had the same thing took to chevy dealer they changed the oil sensor but got rid of the filter. They told me it was a stupid design from gm the engine does not need that filter. My trucks been running fine for 4 yrs now.
Thank you good video and story ! I’m actually going through that right now and i also have a 2007 ltz silverado so thank you really helpful. Doing that this weekend
My boss has the same 270k on his 2007 with a 6.0l having that same issue I'm going to give it a shot and see if what you just showed me will work on his truck to I'll let you know
I changed sensor and screen. 2 hours away from home low pressure shut off engine. Had to keep stopping and letting it cool to read normal pressure. Have oil pressure sensor code again 😕
@@x-coastie I had to do an oil change with engine detergent. Then I did another oil change to make sure all detergent was out. Replaced the screen in oil pressure sensor again ... I'm all good now.
motor oil flush did not work for me unfortunately. my first thought was that the motor medic is probably just diesel fuel, and as it turns out, that's the number one ingredient, so its basically $8 for a quart of red diesel.
Edit: It worked after all... I did the flush for 5 minutes, like the motor medic suggested. I drained the old oil and replaced the oil filter. I drove about 5 miles with no change (0-20PSI). Truck sat over the weekend and on Monday I started it up and oil pressure was back to factory standards (30-55PSI)! I canceled my appointment to have the O-ring in the oil pan replaced. I had already replaced the sending unit and replaced the gauge cluster (twice). Great video, thanks for posting this, you saved me thousands $$$$.
If you want to use the Delco oil filter, use the pf61e. It is a larger oil filter that will fit that application. The reason you had enough sludge to not even allow the oil to get to that filter underneath the oil pressure switch, was driving habits. Short trip driving that does not get the engine completely warm can cause sludge buildup in the engine. An occasional use of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil, we'll keep the engine side of that engine much cleaner. And I would change oil, Mobil 1 is not the best oil, even Walmart supertech test out better than that. The best oil you put in there would be Kendall, or Amsoil. And Pennzoil Bibles both of those as well as Valvoline. Another trick would be to when you do an oil change, for that 6th Court that you put into the oil, just put in a bottle of transmission fluid. The seals will completely love it and the extra cleaning agents in the transmission fluid will keep everything in that engine clean. All of the advice or some of the advice it all will help that aging motor. 60 lb of oil pressure is not a problem in that engine.
Mine did this,turn motor off,wait 30 sec,restart motor,had 40lbs of pressure.This happened to me on interstate.I would drive maybe 100 miles,it would gradually start coming down.Might ended up being oil pressure sensor.
I have an 02' Blazer ZR2 w/300k miles on her but she's a beautiful sweet running 4.3 I deleted my leaky oil cooler lines & gained oil pressure but mine doesn't give me a low pressure light warning on my dash. At idle it will drop to 10 or 20, then as I throttle up it rises to 50+ No tapping, knocking or anything
My gauge bounces from 0 to 80 to 60 will stick at 0 for a couple days. Low oil pressure light will come on occasionally but it's been doing it since last February I think mine is the gauge if you sit in the truck with the key forward the gage will just go crazy
I always use OEM parts, doesn't matter what people tell me. I learned that from a mistake I actually made. I did oil and filter change and dude at O'rllys told me to buy their premium oil filter. Guess what! Lifter tapping and oil pressure to almost 0 after I installed that "premium" filter
So I read through all these comments and not one place did I see anyone stick a manual oil pressure gauge to verify what was showing on the instrument cluster!
Is the filter on the oil pressure sending unit a problem on all GM engines? Engine oil does more than lubricate the engine. It also functions like hydraulic fluid in these high tech engines.
I think it’s an issue with them for sure. I get why it’s there to help protect the sending unit, but the videos I’ve seen online they all get clogged up. When I think about it, I never hear of an issue with Oil Pressure Sending Unit Filters getting clogged up on other cars.
I have done this and also changed the oil sensor with new screen. The gauge stays below 40 and only reaches 40 when I drive on highway.when temperatures reach -1 outside the low engine light turns on and only goes away when truck is Reved or driven..
The shop replaced my oil sensor for second time in 10 days. I don't think they took out the screen the first time, but know have idle pressure ~ 20 and 40 on highway. I will try a flush next oil change.
I did this exact procedure on my 2008 sierra 5.3. It helped with a few psi’s but when fully warm its still at about 18-20 oppose to being 15 at idle. I dont have any lights on as far as low oil pressure plz help
Just to confirm, you did the following in this order, added flush to the existing oil, changed the oil pressure switch, you changed the oil pressure screen beneath it? Most, if not all, that have reproduced what I did, in the order that I did it, have seen solid improvements. You cannot skip a step because you don’t think it may be not necessary. Everything I did was very necessary. In any event, I don’t know what else to add if you did everything I suggested. To me the oil pump shouldn’t be part of the problem, it’s very mechanical. It’s working as long as the engine is turning. There’s an oil starvation issue somewhere else in the system or the car is returning a false positive. Meaning the reading is wrong on the gauge. Which means the oil pressure switch is bad and/or the screen beneath it is clogged. Since you didn’t mention ticking sounds, rough idle, or symptoms of a bad engine, I think you should do the process all over again.
Mine was reading at 20psi when warm now its just under 40 psi warm i changed oil got a k&n filter 5 quarts of 5w30 castrol and a quart of lucas stabilizer
So the low oil pressure light reappears. Does it throw a check engine light code? One thing to think about is the oil pickup o-ring in the oil pan. Though it seems odd that it’s not consistent (every day). I highly doubt it’s the oil pump. If you look at a video on it, it’s very mechanical. If the engine spins it spins. I also doubt it’s the gauge because the act of triggering the message isn’t dependent on the gauge it’s dependent on the sensor I mentioned. Make sure you replace the filter under the sensor. The screen can get filled up with crud and muck and that could possibly cause some inconsistencies. Hope this helps.
@@x-coastie ty ..I changed the screen and sensor (x4)....put the correct oli filter, oil flush etc...bout the only thing I haven't done is, replace the oil pick up tube O ring, ...ummmmm
i have changed everything on my truck it has sat for a whole year cause of this issue ima try this out hopefully it works if it does, im going to freak the fuck out, what trips me out is i hope that nothing happens when it’s running with low oil
Good luck. The oil pump is mechanical and spins with the crank. So if the crank spins so will the oil pump. Dont forget to change the sensor and the filter beneath.
@@x-coastie well i tried it now my motor is bricked i had it on for only 3 and a half minutes then the motor died, then i got a random engine misfire code took out the spark plugs they was covered in that motor flush stuff i could smell it, i changed the spark plugs out for new ones it will crank but it wont start. idk what to do 🤷♂️
STP oil filters are not given a very high grade by the RUclipsrs that cut them apart and compare how each brand is made. WIX is very good. Napa Gold (made by WIX) is also at the top of the list. I've been using Mobil 1 oil filters that they aren't all that great either.
I changed my oil about 2 weeks ago and today my 2011 Silverado 1500 (136,836 miles) gave the same message “low oil pressure shut engine off”. We checked the oil and it appeared to have enough oil on the dip stick. We were 0.3 miles from home and so we drove it home. But half way home; it started making noises like it was knocking. Before the oil change; never had any issues and so I’m here looking at videos trying to figure out what is going on w my truck. Any ideas???
That knocking noise never happened to me. That’s alarming to hear. Did a check engine light come on? Maybe something else is going on in addition the the low oil pressure. Be sure to flush the engine then put in the new oil pressure switch and filter beneath it.
@@x-coastie had shop replace the oil pickup o-ring and oil pan gasket and it didnt gix my low oil pressure. Before that; i replaced the oil pressure sensor/filter with oem parts and didnt fix the problem either although after installing it; the pressure had a reading vs. 0psi before. Code p0523 was on b3fore. Now code p0521 comes on. Any advice? Thanks
Thanks. It try. I love it. I also think it’s a fairly rare truck. Extended Cab Short Bed. Most extended cabs are the 6.5 ft beds. Mine is the 5.8 ft. I never see ones like mine.
2005 GMC Envoy Denali, starts up fine but the gauge slowly falls to the left... once I start driving it consistently, the gauge stands straight up for the duration of my drive every time. The sensor was replaced not the small sensor. Regarding the part 917-143, is it called a oil filter?
I've had same issue going on with my 2012 gmc sierra changed the switch and filter twice and still same issue so I was thinking bad oil pump and the more research I have done I'm thinking it might be the gasket on the filler tube causing my problem any thoughts on this situation
So long ago when I first got the truck (2016) the oil pressure gauge always stayed between 20 and 40. Never ever better than that. So I read about the O-Ring on the oil pickup tube and I replaced that. Now at the time I didn’t do anything or have any reason to check the oil pressure switch or filter because it would read pressure with no problem. But after I replaced the O-Ring the pressure went up to where you see thing now on the truck. That’s why when it went to zero I panicked because I knew the O-Ring was done by myself and the problem was probably severe. Again I did some research and learned the oil pump is strictly mechanical and there shouldn’t be any issue with that as long as the engine spins. And that led me to replacing the Oil Pressure Switch, the Screen and doing a motor flush. Luckily I’ve had no issues at all since I did those things.
Flush with Walmart brand oil. Think it’s called SmartTech. 🤔 Look up way to tell, but in a lot or regions it’s actually Mobile One on Synthetic. Seriously. If you don’t wanna use it for everyday cool, but don’t flush with expensive stuff.
This happen to me on my f250 6.0 powerstroke while I was 100 miles away from home but it turned out to be a bad oil pressure sensor it was leaking oil out the hardness plug..
Another common problem with these motors is the o-ring on the pickup tube in the oil pan wears out and doesn't seal like it's supposed to, causing the same issues. I replaced mine about 85k ago, and at every oil change I substitute one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. I haven't had a single issue with oil pressure since. On a side note, if I ever meet the engineer that put the oil pressure sensor in that spot, I'm probably gonna go to jail. Just sayin......
So I failed to mention that in the video, but I had replaced the o-ring on the oil pickup about two years ago. My problem back then was just low pressure in general. Back then it would at idle hover around 20 and no maters what it never ever went past 40. Soon as I replaced the o-ring it went right up to about 50 max. So I was happy that the o-ring made a difference. It was cheap enough but it took hours to complete the job.
The AC Delco filter is probably not as good as the STP extended life..Just sayin..Any full synthetic oil would be fine in this application..Mobil One is overkill and a waste of your $$. 6:45
You add the motor flush to the engine with the old existing oil. As per the manufacturer of the motor flush says, add it let it run for 5 minutes with the truck being cold when it starts. After 5 minutes drain the oil, change the oil filter and note if you see a lot of clumpy mess draining out of the engine. If so repeat the motor flush process again (engine cold) by adding new oil and oil filter with another motor flush bottle. Let it run for 5 minutes and drain the oil and change the oil filter. Before you start the truck again, change the oil pressure switch and filter screen beneath it. Then start the truck and see what you get. So far I’ve had a lot of positive feedback from this. Hopefully your motor isn’t beyond this fix.
No flow..No pressure drop across the filter..Even a clogged filter..Says to me the threads or the sensor itself LEAK!! Or the problem is elsewhere. 4:21
sorry to tell you ac delco filters are terrible. start cuttimg filters open and check for yourself. check out wix, fram ultra, bosch premium, pure one, or heck even a dang supertech is better than delco.
My filter was not clean. It had muck and crud around the top (where it seats in the housing) of the filter. It also was completely blocked on the bottom. If you’re replacing a $30.00 switch, why not replace the the filter beneath. Not sure why the critiquing when all this video is intended to do is to help and provide a solution that worked for me.
Nice video man, but I'd put ANYTHING in there but a Dorman product. When I was doing this for a living, that brand was a guaranteed way to get a comeback - in other words, doing the job twice, and only getting paid ONCE. Their electrical components are of atrocious quality!
We’ll I thought of that but the decision at the time was to do it all. I’m a guy that had just assumed go scorched earth on things like this vs piece meal.
STP is the worst oil filter, AC Delco is too expensive. The mobile one extended oil filter is always my pick. Why wouldnt you just get that in the forst place youre literally using their oil.
Disagree with the conclusion that the pressure sending unit or the filter beneath it had ANYTHING to do with this problem because when you replaced both, the problem remained. 9:09
Also disagree that the STP extended life filter had ANYTHING to do with the problem again because when the AC Delco filter was installed, the problem persisted. Simple logic! 5:08
One thing that could have caused this was the oil pickup screen being clogged as reported by others with similar issues on this engine. Motor medic to the rescue! 5:08
So if I didn’t replace either the motor, the oil pump on the rotating assembly and all I did was to change the oil and filter twice. First time to see if the problem was a false alarm. When the problem persisted, this is what you saw. All I did is what I said, I flushed the engine, I changed the oil and oil filter with an AC Delhi, I replaced the oil pressure sensor, I replaced the oil filter beneath the sensor and the problem was resolved and it’s never came back. So I’m not sure how you think my conclusion was wrong when it worked.
That’ll definitely remove a potential issue for sure. But I imagine it’s there for a reason. It may show increased oil pressure without that filter in the path. The ECU may try and over compensate in another area to bring down the oil pressure. But I don’t know that for sure…
Sir two comments first you're missing a clamp on your intake hose from your filter box and second driving a vehicle with oil pressure problems is Monumental stupidity you should have towed it home! Stop listening to RUclipsrs
Thanks for the advice! My decision to drive it home isn’t without questioning for sure. But me and the truck have a history. A few years before this I had low oil pressure but it never triggered the light. With some research, I learned that the oil pump is mechanical and tied to the crank. So long as the crank spins, the oil pump will pump. So the research led me to the oil pickup o-ring, and that ended up resolved it. As mentioned in this video, there were zero symptoms of oil problems. I change the oil every 3000 miles, there was no oil in the engine bay, none on the ground anywhere. I checked the oil with the dipstick and it was full. So I felt it was a false positive somehow. Meaning the oil warning light came on, but it can’t be for oil starvation or being out of oil. Since the pump is mechanical, I figured it was the sensor and drove it home. Remember the oil pressure was normal at startup and for a bit and would then fall. It never started/restarted with the oil pressure light remaining on. Hope this helps explain my gambling stupidity.
I just changed my oil pan and gasket/filter oil sensor and oil level sensor and Im getting this bullshit low pressure, I reset the oil and its says 100% until I start the truck then it tells me to shut it off. There was some debri in the dilly majigger bobby hanging down inside the pan not sure what its called lmao.. I even soldered a new connector to the level sensor. Im not sure what else to do I used mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 ac delco filter as well
The other thing to check, and I had already done this a couple years ago, and that is to change the oil pickup tube o-ring. Cheap part but you have to drop the oil pan to get to it. I’m about to do it again on my truck and make a video on it in a few weeks since my pan has started to leak a little.
This oil pressure sending transducer design is flawed and needs a TSB. Fix the problem, not the symptom! Engineers screwed up (again) trying to fix something that wasn’t broke in the first place, now placing the burden on the customer.
It worked for me! Thanks! I changed the oil pressure sending unit and filter, still showing low oil pressure. I continued with your advice by flushing the system the same aditive ( Motor Flush ). Beautiful! Great informative video. Thank you
Your welcome.
I have a 2009 5.3 pickup, I had this exact same problem, I went directly to the motor flush and it worked. I used the Liqui-Molly, about 1.25 cans (about quarter of a second can, since we’re treating more volume) and the problem was gone! I did a second flush since I had the materials, the time and the relatively decent weather (for late November) and the crud that came out was remarkable. I replaced the second flush with 5/30 full synthetic & I intend to do another flush & change in 3k miles.
Great to hear. I think my real problem was the oil pressure filter screen. Dont get me wrong, the flush I’m sure helped, but think the screen was huge.
I had this happen to me and learned that the oil screen is rather small and even though the engine seemed clean the screen was partly clogged. One person even pulled the pan and cleaned the screen the correct way. I did not want to take it out of service so I added a cup of Marvel Mistry Oil and drove it a few hundred miles then changed oil. It never dropped again and think that it cleaned the screen. Something to think about. Your truck sounds great.
Thanks. Glad to hear MMO worked for you!
My 5.3 ecotec was running very rough with a very loud rattling, ticking, pinging bag of crap so I deactivated the cylinder deactivation feature & ran loads of seafoam and marvel mystery oil through it. Now I run 5w30 instead of the recommended 0w20 and it runs absolutely perfect.
@@googleaccount2637 What did you use to deactivate 4cylinder mode??
Last year I was having issues I changed sensor and filter. .it went away for about a year today light came back on . And gauge needle kept on jumping , thanks for your great quality well explained video.
Thanks!
I used motor medic - 8 minutes idle while the front end was on a jack. Changed oil and went back to ac delco oil filter, new sending unit, and its running like new. 40-60 lbs
08 Yukon - 238,000
Great to hear!
Most likely the screen on the pickup tube or the check valve in the pump. It was blocked just enough that it could not suck up the oil. Cleaning it got it clean enough to work. You may want to flush every time you change your oil in the future. Also your oil pressure is not higher than before, it just reads higher because of a slight difference in the new sending unit. The high reading does make you feel better however! Great video. I had oiling troubles on a ‘75 Ford 350 in a Club Van. The oil return tubes became clogged that return oil to the pan. You could drive about 3 miles and then all the oil was stuck in the valve covers. After 4 hours of cleaning all the gunk from the intake and valves, the only oil I pour into anything is Mobile One!!! Thanks for reminding me of my 50 year old story. Loved my old van too! -KB
Your welcome. I’m glad you found it helpful.
Or better yet get rid of it it’s not a big deal
I wish mine would have been this simple of a fix. I had the same problem on my 2001 Tahoe 5.3 LS.
On the highway, pressure dropped to ZERO. Shut it off immediately.
I could start it back up and like you said, the pressure would go back up then slowly drop back to ZERO. When the pressure dropped, the motor would start tapping, which is a good indication that it is not the pressure switch or screen (so i was told).
I was too far from home (about 20 miles) to do the "creep it home" method, because the pressure would only hold at 40psi for about 30 seconds. So, i had it towed home. I tried the motor flush, the Marvel Mystery, oil and filter change...and nothing. So i knew it had to be the oil pump. This was a 341,000 mile motor.
Luckily, i had a backup car and i slowly bought parts to do the oil pump change. I got the Melling pump (with the blue spring). Replaced the o-ring and all the gaskets. It took me a whole weekend. Now, i have about 50-65 psi of pressure all the time. I have put about 8,000 miles on the vehicle since the pump swap (now at 349,200 miles) and the engine still purrs like a kitten. These engines will run forever if handled with care. I just wish my situation would have been as easy as yours. Lol..sorry for the long comment! Great video!
Thanks for the compliment. I’m glad yours is still running strong. These engines are pretty bullet proof.
Yup. Reserved this weekend for my 08escaladeESV awd.
Water pump, oil pump, timing chain.
Shit. Kinda wanna do a perf cam while I'm in there!
Those early models didn’t have these oil pressure problems (I owned 3 of them) it’s only the 07’s and up. And with that many miles in the engine it’s for sure the oil pump. I hope it all worked out for you.
I’ll admit I was about to swipe just because of all the talking and not getting to the point. However I had the same issue with my Sierra. Changed pour the flush in changed the oil and bam 55 psi at idle. Thank you!
Your welcome.
Id highly recommend you switch to 10w30 especially if you live in a warmer climate. It has slightly heavier molecules compared with 5w30 which could thin out especially when the engine gets hot like during hill climbs on the interstate etc. A 10w30 will not thin out as easily or cause low oil pressure and can usually take a bigger beating from a hot engine. I use Amsoil 10w30 Signature Series and an Amsoil filter that filters 99% at 20 microns. I can tell you care deeply about your engine and truck. Youve got nothing to worry about. Your engine is a gem.☺
Thanks for the heads up on that. I’ve read that 10w30 would increase oil pressure but I’ve not heard of People doing it. Good to know it’s worked for you and I definitely may give that a try in the summer.
@@x-coastie No worries.....the important number is your operational temp weight which is 30. Thats number you should not change. The winter weight is dependent on your climate. But even then.....the pour point of 10w30 mobil1 EP is around -43 and Amsoil SS -47......so youre good even then. Cheers.
I did this with my 08 silverado with a 4.8, it worked great as a temporary fix, definitely increased oil pressure. Still would occasionally drop and flip the sensor. I just changed back to 5w30 on my last oil change and can hardly move it without the light coming on now. Which is why i am here watching this video. Unfortunately my LS model did not come with the oil pressure gauge on the dash.
You guys may have to do an engine flush. There may be clogged screens or passages where the oil isnt getting through and causing low pressure.
So if I use 10w30 on my 5.3 with AFM I should be good? I use 10w30 on my 00 Silverado but I have an 2010 and I’ve been told not to use 10w30 cause of the AFM.
I also replaced the o ring on the oil pickup tube. Gained 5 to 8 lbs of pressure. O ring was hard with flat sealing surface that wasn’t plyable. It actually broke as I was taking it off the pickup tube.
I had done mine years ago and again in a subsequent video chasing an oil leak.
The o ring on the oil pickup tube is probably bad as well. I would drop the oil pan and replace it and you will gain some oil pressure. I just had the same issue with my wife’s 09 Tahoe with the 5.3. It was definitely the problem for me. It’s worth it to take the little bit of time to do this job.
I should have mentioned in the video that I had already done that. A few years back I went through everything to update the truck. I did a coolant flush, a power steering flush, rear end gear oil change, and at the same time I did the o-ring because someone mentioned that would be a good idea. So I did and I could tell a difference for sure in the oil pressure. But even before I did that it never went below below the 20 psi under any condition. But good call bringing that up.
Just bought my brother's 09 tahoe with the 5.3. Same issue, low oil pressure shortly after driving, warning ding and light comes on to shut it down. No engine knocking or anything. Were you able to drop the oil pan on the ground ? Looks like it's pretty tight clearance under there even on jack stands. I don't have access to a lift so I'm debating how to proceed.
Thanks
@@savr4429 lol... You should try dropping a pan on the 4x4! I'm not too sure raising the engine off the mounts might be easier! If not, it's diff and rack. Big job just to drop a damn pan for a friggen O ring!
I just got a 2010 avalanche and it’s having this problem
All I have to say is that truck is one clean truck with age and mileage. Living in northeast I could never keep a vehicle looking so good. An aside, still keep using 5w-30, manufacturers recommended oil grade is the only way to go.
Thanks for compliments. I Completely Agree on the oil!
I just recently had this happen to my 08 Suburban. i changed my oil first ( because it needed to be change). And i change my Oil pressure switch and filter on it and it worked. before i found out what it was, I took it to the dealer and of course they wanted to change everything including the oil pump for over 6000.00 dollars. so i save alot of money.
Awesome!
The screen under the pressure switch is for the AFM/ DOD cylinder shut down system but you are correct to replace it regardless.
Thanks.
It’s the full synthetic oil that congeals over time especially with that mileage. I’ve stayed up to date with PM work and have similar mileage…run ac delco oil filter with 10 40 weight oil
Thanks for the info!
Thin (old) oil will throw this code. Change your oil more regularly is a much simpler fix. I look at it as my truck telling me it needs an oil change
Yep
1:29 - "It purred like a clitten." I see what you did there! Good one! Zacky likey!
Thanks.
😂
Apparently there is a TSB for the p0521 code on these engines and the fix is to use AC Delco UPF48R instead of the PF48. I’ve replaced the oil pressure switch on our Tahoe and it fixed the issue for a while but then P0521 came up. Oil pressure still reads but it’s around 20 when warmed up instead of 40. So I’m gonna try this upgrade filter and hopefully it fixes the code
Hope it works.
@@x-coastie It did thankfully. If anyone reading this is getting P0521, consider changing the oil filter to AC Delco UPF48R or equivalent Mobil 1 M1-113.
this also happens when trunnion needle bearings come outta the stock rocker arms. my car had this happen before i did afm delete. replaced rocker arms with better ones and no more needle bearings to think about.
Glad that worked
Thank you for the video, have the same problem with my 2009 Silverado, will get the Motor Flush . Replaced the censor already.
No problem. Glad it helped.
Was your engine making noise?
Thanks I’m gonna try this on my wife’s suburban we were 150 miles from home and the oil pressure went to zero my jaw hit the floor. I will never use cheap oil and filters after this.
Good luck!
Thanks for ur help with the video and thanks for ur service im a commercial fishermen and really appreciate the coastguard
Thanks Sir! Much appreciated!
Hah I just noticed your name. I was CG 2002-2010. MK
Thank you for posting this! I had the low oil pressure issue and looked around at various websites and videos to understand the different scenarios others were facing. Since I have run full synthetic for several years in our 2013 Suburban, I opted to not do the engine/oil flush as the synthetic oil "theoretically" is supposed to keep things clean. I replaced the oil with Mobil 1 and used the AC Delco oil filter. At start up, oil pressure went right to 60 lbs, settled in at 40 lbs under lower rpms until fully warmed up and then 30-35 lbs at idle when warmed up. Oil pressure response was immediate. Hopefully this is all it was. The low oil pressure issue came up about 4000 miles from the last oil change.
Awesome.
Oil Pan pick up tube O ring is probably going bad and needs to be replaced its common, another common issue is the Cam Bearings can move and if they due you lose pressure. Also always use a GM Sensor after markets are not as accurate.
Gotcha. Good advice. Thanks!
Had the same thing happen to me one day, mine is a 4.3 v6 - I panicked and shut it off and pulled over checked the level etc all looked good. Started back up all sounding fine I drove it home, my oil pressure switch had been changed some time before due to leaking - I found there is an oil level switch on the side of the block just a cheesy little level sensor, changed that out and have never seen that warning again. I always use good grade oil and either wixxp or k&n filters
Thanks!!!
After 5 months did you fix the problem?
@@Cezzm ya that was a couple years ago I never had any issues after that
Where at exactly on the side of the engine?
@@julian-H47 passenger side about the middle of the block just above the oilpan - called a “level sensor” delco d8055
Thanks for the information this helped me out a lot. If my 2013 Sierra sits still for 5+ weeks it shows low oil and I had the sensor replaced 2 twice. Flushed my engine like you said and changed the oil after the flush and not problems. Saved me at least $450. THANKS
Your welcome. I’m glad it helped you!
Literalllynsame thing happen to my friend sierra 13'. Has the pressure been fine since you did the flush?
You should replace the O-ring on the oil suction tube for the oil pump because after 200,000 miles those O-rings go flat or they start to crack so if you lose oil pressure again, you know what the check.
When this happened, a year or two before I had already changed the oil pickup o-ring. That’s why this video didn’t cover that as a possible issue because I knew that wasn’t the problem. I should have mentioned that in the video.
That is very good information I appreciate it.
Glad it was helpful!
I had the same thing took to chevy dealer they changed the oil sensor but got rid of the filter. They told me it was a stupid design from gm the engine does not need that filter. My trucks been running fine for 4 yrs now.
Great to hear.
Thank you good video and story ! I’m actually going through that right now and i also have a 2007 ltz silverado so thank you really helpful. Doing that this weekend
Glad it helped. Good luck this weekend.
Did it work?
My boss has the same 270k on his 2007 with a 6.0l having that same issue I'm going to give it a shot and see if what you just showed me will work on his truck to I'll let you know
Good luck!
Shit really worked saved me alot of money just used it before changing the sensor just an oil change followed the directions for sure
Glad it worked.
I changed sensor and screen. 2 hours away from home low pressure shut off engine. Had to keep stopping and letting it cool to read normal pressure. Have oil pressure sensor code again 😕
Hopefully things will work out.
@@x-coastie I had to do an oil change with engine detergent. Then I did another oil change to make sure all detergent was out. Replaced the screen in oil pressure sensor again ... I'm all good now.
motor oil flush did not work for me unfortunately. my first thought was that the motor medic is probably just diesel fuel, and as it turns out, that's the number one ingredient, so its basically $8 for a quart of red diesel.
Edit: It worked after all... I did the flush for 5 minutes, like the motor medic suggested. I drained the old oil and replaced the oil filter. I drove about 5 miles with no change (0-20PSI). Truck sat over the weekend and on Monday I started it up and oil pressure was back to factory standards (30-55PSI)! I canceled my appointment to have the O-ring in the oil pan replaced. I had already replaced the sending unit and replaced the gauge cluster (twice). Great video, thanks for posting this, you saved me thousands $$$$.
Your welcome!!!!!
If you want to use the Delco oil filter, use the pf61e. It is a larger oil filter that will fit that application. The reason you had enough sludge to not even allow the oil to get to that filter underneath the oil pressure switch, was driving habits. Short trip driving that does not get the engine completely warm can cause sludge buildup in the engine. An occasional use of Marvel Mystery Oil in the oil, we'll keep the engine side of that engine much cleaner. And I would change oil, Mobil 1 is not the best oil, even Walmart supertech test out better than that. The best oil you put in there would be Kendall, or Amsoil. And Pennzoil Bibles both of those as well as Valvoline. Another trick would be to when you do an oil change, for that 6th Court that you put into the oil, just put in a bottle of transmission fluid. The seals will completely love it and the extra cleaning agents in the transmission fluid will keep everything in that engine clean. All of the advice or some of the advice it all will help that aging motor.
60 lb of oil pressure is not a problem in that engine.
Thanks a bunch for all the advice. You seem to know quite a bit about these engines. I had never heard of some this information. Awesome to know!
The 61e is for the gen 3 engines that require a 46e ACDelco filter. This is a gen 4 that requires a 48e. The upgrade is a pf63 for these trucks!
Mine did this,turn motor off,wait 30 sec,restart motor,had 40lbs of pressure.This happened to me on interstate.I would drive maybe 100 miles,it would gradually start coming down.Might ended up being oil pressure sensor.
Glad you made it that long while the pressure was dropping. Mine wouldn’t go a half mile before I had to restart it.
@@x-coastie did you have lifter knock?
I have an 02' Blazer ZR2 w/300k miles on her but she's a beautiful sweet running 4.3
I deleted my leaky oil cooler lines & gained oil pressure but mine doesn't give me a low pressure light warning on my dash.
At idle it will drop to 10 or 20, then as I throttle up it rises to 50+
No tapping, knocking or anything
Good to hear.
Thank you very much you saved me alits of hustle 💪 God bless you. ❤️❤️❤️❤️
No Problem! Glad the video was able to help.
My gauge bounces from 0 to 80 to 60 will stick at 0 for a couple days. Low oil pressure light will come on occasionally but it's been doing it since last February I think mine is the gauge if you sit in the truck with the key forward the gage will just go crazy
That sounds weird! If you figure it out you should post a video on it.
If you figure it out definitely post a reply here so others can learn too ppls😁
Same mine jumps to 80 them 40 to 60 back to 0 matter of seconds fluctuations started 2 days ago
@@emanuelaguayo7811you ever figure your issue oit
I always use OEM parts, doesn't matter what people tell me. I learned that from a mistake I actually made. I did oil and filter change and dude at O'rllys told me to buy their premium oil filter. Guess what! Lifter tapping and oil pressure to almost 0 after I installed that "premium" filter
Yep. Sticking with OEM.
Lionel here in central California. Good and useful info. My one question, what did the new oil look like after using Motor Flush?
It didn’t look brand new, but it wasn’t completely black. It like the motor flush did it’s job and some varnish or crud came out.
08 Sierra low oil pressure, p0521 code with good oil level no rough idle or anything. I’ll be trying this hope it works!
Good luck!
Forgot to update, oil pressure has come back! Idled at 20ish psi, oil pressure low message gone.
So I read through all these comments and not one place did I see anyone stick a manual oil pressure gauge to verify what was showing on the instrument cluster!
Good point! That certainly could have been used to check things in more detail!
This just happened to my 07 Yukon going to give this a try and throw in a cam for fun thanks for the help
NP!
Great Video 👍
Thanks 👍
Having the same issues -here for the comments
Thanks.
Is the filter on the oil pressure sending unit a problem on all GM engines? Engine oil does more than lubricate the engine. It also functions like hydraulic fluid in these high tech engines.
I think it’s an issue with them for sure. I get why it’s there to help protect the sending unit, but the videos I’ve seen online they all get clogged up. When I think about it, I never hear of an issue with Oil Pressure Sending Unit Filters getting clogged up on other cars.
Nice nice well done old school
Thanks!
A/C Delco only and the Mobile 1 is the way to go. Half a container of Lucas Oil Stabilizer with each oil change
Glad to know about the Lucas.
@@x-coastie helps prevent dry starts
I have done this and also changed the oil sensor with new screen. The gauge stays below 40 and only reaches 40 when I drive on highway.when temperatures reach -1 outside the low engine light turns on and only goes away when truck is Reved or driven..
I’d keep flushing the engine at every like change. Could still be some crud in there.
The shop replaced my oil sensor for second time in 10 days. I don't think they took out the screen the first time, but know have idle pressure ~ 20 and 40 on highway. I will try a flush next oil change.
@@tims7160 how much did they charge you to replace sensor?
I did this exact procedure on my 2008 sierra 5.3. It helped with a few psi’s but when fully warm its still at about 18-20 oppose to being 15 at idle. I dont have any lights on as far as low oil pressure plz help
Just to confirm, you did the following in this order, added flush to the existing oil, changed the oil pressure switch, you changed the oil pressure screen beneath it? Most, if not all, that have reproduced what I did, in the order that I did it, have seen solid improvements. You cannot skip a step because you don’t think it may be not necessary. Everything I did was very necessary. In any event, I don’t know what else to add if you did everything I suggested. To me the oil pump shouldn’t be part of the problem, it’s very mechanical. It’s working as long as the engine is turning. There’s an oil starvation issue somewhere else in the system or the car is returning a false positive. Meaning the reading is wrong on the gauge. Which means the oil pressure switch is bad and/or the screen beneath it is clogged. Since you didn’t mention ticking sounds, rough idle, or symptoms of a bad engine, I think you should do the process all over again.
@@x-coastie I changed the pressure switch and filter/screen before doing the flush and oil change.
This was so so helpful thanks alot
Your welcome
Mine was reading at 20psi when warm now its just under 40 psi warm i changed oil got a k&n filter 5 quarts of 5w30 castrol and a quart of lucas stabilizer
Great.
Glad it worked out for you.
Thanks.
I have done all of this ....runs fine ...but same issue comes back every couple months.....any idea???
So the low oil pressure light reappears. Does it throw a check engine light code? One thing to think about is the oil pickup o-ring in the oil pan. Though it seems odd that it’s not consistent (every day). I highly doubt it’s the oil pump. If you look at a video on it, it’s very mechanical. If the engine spins it spins. I also doubt it’s the gauge because the act of triggering the message isn’t dependent on the gauge it’s dependent on the sensor I mentioned. Make sure you replace the filter under the sensor. The screen can get filled up with crud and muck and that could possibly cause some inconsistencies. Hope this helps.
@@x-coastie ty ..I changed the screen and sensor (x4)....put the correct oli filter, oil flush etc...bout the only thing I haven't done is, replace the oil pick up tube O ring, ...ummmmm
i have changed everything on my truck it has sat for a whole year cause of this issue ima try this out hopefully it works if it does, im going to freak the fuck out, what trips me out is i hope that nothing happens when it’s running with low oil
Good luck. The oil pump is mechanical and spins with the crank. So if the crank spins so will the oil pump. Dont forget to change the sensor and the filter beneath.
@@x-coastie i changed the filter and the sensor at about 10k miles ago
@@x-coastie well i tried it now my motor is bricked i had it on for only 3 and a half minutes then the motor died, then i got a random engine misfire code took out the spark plugs they was covered in that motor flush stuff i could smell it, i changed the spark plugs out for new ones it will crank but it wont start. idk what to do 🤷♂️
They make a socket for the oil sensor i had to buy one.
Hmmm. I didn’t know that. Thanks!!!
STP oil filters are not given a very high grade by the RUclipsrs that cut them apart and compare how each brand is made. WIX is very good. Napa Gold (made by WIX) is also at the top of the list. I've been using Mobil 1 oil filters that they aren't all that great either.
Gotcha.
I changed my oil about 2 weeks ago and today my 2011 Silverado 1500 (136,836 miles) gave the same message “low oil pressure shut engine off”. We checked the oil and it appeared to have enough oil on the dip stick. We were 0.3 miles from home and so we drove it home. But half way home; it started making noises like it was knocking. Before the oil change; never had any issues and so I’m here looking at videos trying to figure out what is going on w my truck. Any ideas???
That knocking noise never happened to me. That’s alarming to hear. Did a check engine light come on? Maybe something else is going on in addition the the low oil pressure. Be sure to flush the engine then put in the new oil pressure switch and filter beneath it.
Thanks for replying. But no check engine light came on. But today I had my truck towed in.
@@x-coastie had shop replace the oil pickup o-ring and oil pan gasket and it didnt gix my low oil pressure.
Before that; i replaced the oil pressure sensor/filter with oem parts and didnt fix the problem either although after installing it; the pressure had a reading vs. 0psi before.
Code p0523 was on b3fore.
Now code p0521 comes on.
Any advice?
Thanks
Trucks mint 👌
Thanks. It try. I love it. I also think it’s a fairly rare truck. Extended Cab Short Bed. Most extended cabs are the 6.5 ft beds. Mine is the 5.8 ft. I never see ones like mine.
No, after you replace it. You need to reset the computer. Turn the key half way and pump the fuel pedal 5 times and hold it for a few seconds.
Yeah this video wasn’t really about an oil change. But what you’re saying should be done after every oil change.
2005 GMC Envoy Denali, starts up fine but the gauge slowly falls to the left... once I start driving it consistently, the gauge stands straight up for the duration of my drive every time. The sensor was replaced not the small sensor. Regarding the part 917-143, is it called a oil filter?
It’s called an Oil Pressure Switch Filter.
@@x-coastie Thank you!!
Thank you buddy I flush my tahoe today work good now I was ready to swap the oil pump 😀 💯💯💯
Glad to hear!
Same vehicle I’m having this problem
I've had same issue going on with my 2012 gmc sierra changed the switch and filter twice and still same issue so I was thinking bad oil pump and the more research I have done I'm thinking it might be the gasket on the filler tube causing my problem any thoughts on this situation
So long ago when I first got the truck (2016) the oil pressure gauge always stayed between 20 and 40. Never ever better than that. So I read about the O-Ring on the oil pickup tube and I replaced that. Now at the time I didn’t do anything or have any reason to check the oil pressure switch or filter because it would read pressure with no problem. But after I replaced the O-Ring the pressure went up to where you see thing now on the truck. That’s why when it went to zero I panicked because I knew the O-Ring was done by myself and the problem was probably severe. Again I did some research and learned the oil pump is strictly mechanical and there shouldn’t be any issue with that as long as the engine spins. And that led me to replacing the Oil Pressure Switch, the Screen and doing a motor flush. Luckily I’ve had no issues at all since I did those things.
Yes cheap and was the issue for me O-ring on the oil pick up tube in the oil pan.
Flush with Walmart brand oil. Think it’s called SmartTech. 🤔 Look up way to tell, but in a lot or regions it’s actually Mobile One on Synthetic. Seriously. If you don’t wanna use it for everyday cool, but don’t flush with expensive stuff.
Gotcha!
Flush with ATF lol
This happen to me on my f250 6.0 powerstroke while I was 100 miles away from home but it turned out to be a bad oil pressure sensor it was leaking oil out the hardness plug..
Glad to hear that’s all it was.
Ive, changed both like five times and it still having the same issue
Flushing the motor isn’t the only step. Please change the oil pressure switch and filter screen beneath the oil pressure switch.
How many miles now?
295,000 and some change.
Another common problem with these motors is the o-ring on the pickup tube in the oil pan wears out and doesn't seal like it's supposed to, causing the same issues. I replaced mine about 85k ago, and at every oil change I substitute one quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. I haven't had a single issue with oil pressure since. On a side note, if I ever meet the engineer that put the oil pressure sensor in that spot, I'm probably gonna go to jail. Just sayin......
So I failed to mention that in the video, but I had replaced the o-ring on the oil pickup about two years ago. My problem back then was just low pressure in general. Back then it would at idle hover around 20 and no maters what it never ever went past 40. Soon as I replaced the o-ring it went right up to about 50 max. So I was happy that the o-ring made a difference. It was cheap enough but it took hours to complete the job.
The pressure got up to about 50 psi when at 2500RPM..Perfectly normal..Not "pretty dagone high".. 7:50
Thanks.
So put motor flush in with exciting oil. Let run with exciting oil filter or put new one first, then what???
Yes add the motor flush with the existing old and oil filter.
I couldn't start mines after I cut the engine off
That doesn’t sound good. Hopefully it’s a bad starter!
Really helpful
Thanks.
I only use Wix or Napa Gold.
Good to know!
fyi incase you didn’t know, wix makes napa gold filters. both great options! 👍🏼
@@jaydengrivette8829 thanks for the info, I didn't know that.
Didn't work for me.. IDK what to do..
Try removing the filter beneath the oil pressure switch and see what it shows.
The AC Delco filter is probably not as good as the STP extended life..Just sayin..Any full synthetic oil would be fine in this application..Mobil One is overkill and a waste of your $$. 6:45
Thanks
I flushed my truck truck and went from 25 to 40 instantly
Awesome
over the counter engine oil flush ?
Or the 400 dollar bg flush the Chevy dealership sells ?
@@stevennunez6013 I believe it was lucus
@@ericgayton6607 Lucas?
@@jaayg9262 I apologize I went to double check it's called sea foam not Lucas however several choices I used sea foam still holding
Can't change the old filter, with out empty the old oil
You add the motor flush to the engine with the old existing oil. As per the manufacturer of the motor flush says, add it let it run for 5 minutes with the truck being cold when it starts. After 5 minutes drain the oil, change the oil filter and note if you see a lot of clumpy mess draining out of the engine. If so repeat the motor flush process again (engine cold) by adding new oil and oil filter with another motor flush bottle. Let it run for 5 minutes and drain the oil and change the oil filter. Before you start the truck again, change the oil pressure switch and filter screen beneath it. Then start the truck and see what you get. So far I’ve had a lot of positive feedback from this. Hopefully your motor isn’t beyond this fix.
No flow..No pressure drop across the filter..Even a clogged filter..Says to me the threads or the sensor itself LEAK!! Or the problem is elsewhere. 4:21
Huh?
Oil pump screen may be bad or pump may have came losse
A while back I had replaced the o-ring on the oil pickup tube. At the time the screen was actually pristine.
I have a Camaro and my light will pop on and off out of no where also I have a scanner and no code for this pops up at all
Depending on the year its probably a LS engine and its could be the oil pressure switch.
sorry to tell you ac delco filters are terrible. start cuttimg filters open and check for yourself. check out wix, fram ultra, bosch premium, pure one, or heck even a dang supertech is better than delco.
Gotcha. I also like the K&N.
Again no flow..No pressure drop so the filter beneath the switch was not part of the problem.. 9:14
My filter was not clean. It had muck and crud around the top (where it seats in the housing) of the filter. It also was completely blocked on the bottom. If you’re replacing a $30.00 switch, why not replace the the filter beneath. Not sure why the critiquing when all this video is intended to do is to help and provide a solution that worked for me.
My 14 is doing it
Good luck. Don’t forget to replace the screen too.
Nice video man, but I'd put ANYTHING in there but a Dorman product. When I was doing this for a living, that brand was a guaranteed way to get a comeback - in other words, doing the job twice, and only getting paid ONCE. Their electrical components are of atrocious quality!
Gotcha. Thanks for the heads up.
Perhaps you should have done one repair at a time to isolate what the actual problem was
We’ll I thought of that but the decision at the time was to do it all. I’m a guy that had just assumed go scorched earth on things like this vs piece meal.
@@x-coastie I'll allow it. This time👍🏼😁
STP is the worst oil filter, AC Delco is too expensive. The mobile one extended oil filter is always my pick. Why wouldnt you just get that in the forst place youre literally using their oil.
You’re right. You’re absolutely right.
That’s why 99% of mechanics don’t put the filter back in,,,,
Gotcha…
Disagree with the conclusion that the pressure sending unit or the filter beneath it had ANYTHING to do with this problem because when you replaced both, the problem remained. 9:09
Also disagree that the STP extended life filter had ANYTHING to do with the problem again because when the AC Delco filter was installed, the problem persisted. Simple logic! 5:08
One thing that could have caused this was the oil pickup screen being clogged as reported by others with similar issues on this engine. Motor medic to the rescue! 5:08
So if I didn’t replace either the motor, the oil pump on the rotating assembly and all I did was to change the oil and filter twice. First time to see if the problem was a false alarm. When the problem persisted, this is what you saw. All I did is what I said, I flushed the engine, I changed the oil and oil filter with an AC Delhi, I replaced the oil pressure sensor, I replaced the oil filter beneath the sensor and the problem was resolved and it’s never came back. So I’m not sure how you think my conclusion was wrong when it worked.
Hello everyone... Is there anyone in Los Angeles that can help a girl out??? 2009 Chevy Traverse with the SAME ISSUE.
Not sure
Do not use Motor flush with AFM DOD ,IT WILL CLOG YOUR VALLEY PLATE FILTERS AND THIS RUIN LIFTERS SEEN IT HAPPEN WAY TOO MANY TIMES
Gotcha. Thanks.
Mobile 1 is what happened. That oil is junk. Valvoline full synthetic all day everyday.
Thanks.
Just remove the oil pressure filter
That’ll definitely remove a potential issue for sure. But I imagine it’s there for a reason. It may show increased oil pressure without that filter in the path. The ECU may try and over compensate in another area to bring down the oil pressure. But I don’t know that for sure…
I think is your oil
Don't use Mobil bad oil
Yeah I’m not sure Mobil 1 was part of the problem. To me, it is pretty good oil.
I've seen junk conventional oil do it.
Good to know!
Sir two comments first you're missing a clamp on your intake hose from your filter box and second driving a vehicle with oil pressure problems is Monumental stupidity you should have towed it home!
Stop listening to RUclipsrs
Thanks for the advice! My decision to drive it home isn’t without questioning for sure. But me and the truck have a history. A few years before this I had low oil pressure but it never triggered the light. With some research, I learned that the oil pump is mechanical and tied to the crank. So long as the crank spins, the oil pump will pump. So the research led me to the oil pickup o-ring, and that ended up resolved it. As mentioned in this video, there were zero symptoms of oil problems. I change the oil every 3000 miles, there was no oil in the engine bay, none on the ground anywhere. I checked the oil with the dipstick and it was full. So I felt it was a false positive somehow. Meaning the oil warning light came on, but it can’t be for oil starvation or being out of oil. Since the pump is mechanical, I figured it was the sensor and drove it home. Remember the oil pressure was normal at startup and for a bit and would then fall. It never started/restarted with the oil pressure light remaining on. Hope this helps explain my gambling stupidity.
Chevy
Yep
Stop calling it a car. It's a truck man
Yep. You’re right.
Yep you’re right.
I just changed my oil pan and gasket/filter oil sensor and oil level sensor and Im getting this bullshit low pressure, I reset the oil and its says 100% until I start the truck then it tells me to shut it off. There was some debri in the dilly majigger bobby hanging down inside the pan not sure what its called lmao.. I even soldered a new connector to the level sensor. Im not sure what else to do I used mobile 1 full synthetic 5w30 ac delco filter as well
The other thing to check, and I had already done this a couple years ago, and that is to change the oil pickup tube o-ring. Cheap part but you have to drop the oil pan to get to it. I’m about to do it again on my truck and make a video on it in a few weeks since my pan has started to leak a little.
This oil pressure sending transducer design is flawed and needs a TSB. Fix the problem, not the symptom! Engineers screwed up (again) trying to fix something that wasn’t broke in the first place, now placing the burden on the customer.
Yep