Fallen Oak Stave Snare Build - Part 1 - Cutting and Gluing
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- My inaugural RUclips video.
Part 1 of a stave snare drum build where I cover my process for cutting the staves and gluing them up to a rough drum.
This wood for this drum is milled from oak logs cut from a huge fallen limb that dropped a power line in my neighborhood. The limb took down the neighborhood's main power line, during a snow storm. We lost power for 3 days of, really cold, late November weather.
But I saw the opportunity to utilize the fallen lumber, having started building stave drums earlier that year(2018).
I've been trying to think of a name for my drum "enterprise". Push came to shove when I had to name this channel. "Fallen Oak Drums" it is.
So here is the first installment of my build videos. I hope you enjoy it, or at least tolerate it. Where this goes after the drum is complete (2-3 videos?), I have no idea!
After this first experience editing footage(taken on my Samsung S8), I have a greater appreciation for video editors everywhere. I watch a lot of RUclips myself. My hat's off to everyone that watch. It's a lot of work.
Really well done series. As always you are clever and humorous, too.
Well done. I've been playing drums since early seventies and here recently within the last couple years I've been building my own drums. I really enjoy it about always look at the Videos new tips to help thank you for the video
Thank you for the comment and encouragement. I learn something new with every drum I make.
Great video. I’ve made a few shells now. It seems that no matter how perfect I try to make the dimensions, there are always little variations in the staves. But, when glued and clamped down they all squeeze together and turn out fine.
Thanks. And yeah, same observation on the staves and clamping out the imperfections. So far I haven't had to scrap any glued up blanks.
Nice work Tom!
Thanks Dr. Dave!
Hi Tom, I really like your chain saw jig! I thought just today about buying one but yours looks much better.
I got the concept/design from Izzy Swan's RUclips channel. That guy does some unbelievable stuff. Worth checking out!
Nice start to the series. Im going to be building one too. Been wanting to for a while now. Im sure we've watched all the same youtube videos on the subject haha
Its a lot of fun. I have been through several iterations of my jigs, and they get a little better each time. Still trying to perfect building snare drums, but may eventually get back to building toms and kicks.(Initially, I build a 4 piece maple kit when I started doing this 2 years ago) Good luck on your build!
@@fallenoakdrums thanks! Ive got the staves cut. Got to glue up. I am wanting to see your jigs as ive built mine too but haven't got to use them yet
Awesome.
How and where did you dry the wood? Is there a specific moisture point that you want to achieve before you used the wood?
Looking forward to part 2.
Hi Matt. Started the wood drying in my unheated garage. It was middle of winter by the time I had milled those logs. I brought some of the lumber into the house, probably about 5 months later. It was a good 14 months before I used them for this drum and the moisture was around 9% by that time. Also, wood had been back in garage for a month or two when I started e drum. It might have been a little dryer than 9 when I took it out of the house.
How do you like they SawStop? That is top of my list for next purchase.
It's great. Best table saw I've owned. The contractor model has an issue with dust build up on the screw mechanism that raises and lowers blade. Currently that prevents me from lowering the blade all the way down. That's the only issue I've had. Bought it about a year ago.
Ciao e complimenti per il lavoro, ti volevo chiedere come mai inclini la sega ad 8 gradi ? Quando sul progetto di townlab indica l’inclinazione di 9 gradi ? Grazie anticipatamente
Hi, thank your you comment and question. The angle on the indicator is actually 81 dgrees, not 8 degrees. This is the angle of the blade to the table, and it results in a 9 degree bevel when I cut the wooden staves. 90-81=9. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching my video!
From google translation: Ciao, grazie del tuo commento e domanda. L'angolo sull'indicatore è in realtà 81 gradi, non 8 gradi. Questo è l'angolo della lama rispetto al tavolo e risulta in uno smusso di 9 gradi quando taglio le doghe di legno. 90-81 = 9. Spero che possa aiutare. Grazie per aver guardato il mio video!
Grazie per la risposta sei stato davvero molto gentile e utile vorrei chiederti inoltre la misura in centimetri della larghezza di ogni doga grazie ancora
Sei hai consigli da darmi li accetto molto volentieri , vorrei fare un rullante in ulivo di 14 x 3,5 pollici e facendo una prima prova non si è chiuso perfettamente come mi aspettavo ma presentava dei leggeri spazi per questo mi è venuto il dubbio sull’inclinazione del taglio
I'm just getting into building with staves. I see you cut one angle on a stave blank, then turn the piece 180 to cut the other angle. When I try that, it seems like there is a bit of uncut wood at the wide end. Do you ever adjust the fence inward slightly to compensate, or is this a non-issue for you?
I know what you are talking about. I believe you are referring to that whole edge of the wide part of the stave. If you have the fence dialed in perfectly, it should not be a big deal, but if you are measuring the outer width of the stave after the 2nd cut, it's going to read a little less than it should because of the missing edge. This video is many, many drums ago for me. Now I make my blanks wide enough that my first cut is not to final width. So yes, I will make my first cuts on all staves, then adjust my fence to sneak up on the final desired width. Lately, I've been doing 18 staves so that I can set blade to a 10 degree angle. My desired width is 6.33 cm. Thanks for the question and good luck on your drums!
Do you look for grain direction or profile to decide which is inside or outside?
To be honest, I usually am not thinking inside versus outside before I cut the bevels. I probably should! Once cut, I just try to arrange in a pleasing pattern. Sometimes I try to alternate different color tones when the staves vary, light to dark. Or I alternate distinctive versus subtle grain, in either case trying not to end up with a drum that is all dark on one side, all light on the other.
Hi, according to the measurements of your drawing, the final thickness of the barrel should be 3.2mm. It's correct? Thank you!
Hi Alessandro, I am not sure where you see that measurement and I'd have to do some digging to find that sheet from the video, but the thickness of the shell ended up around 1/4 inch thick, or 6.3 mm. When I'm inside milling I usually shoot for around 6.3mm, but lately I have changed my process. I mill the whole inside to 9.5mm, then I continue to mill most of the drum down to 6.3mm and leave about 25mm wide re-rings (9.5mm thick) at each rim. This gives me a pretty rigid shell, that is mostly thinner for better resonance. The uniontown stave caclulator is great! If you plan to build some drums this way, check out their site: uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/ . Good luck if you are building drums! Its so much fun.
@@tomwalsh4676 Grazie!
is there a video of you making a kick drum?
No, unfortunately not. I made a 20" kick a few years ago, but did not capture on video. The process is the same. The Uniontown labs stave drum program will work with any size you want, as far as I know. The only major difference for me was that I decided to use thicker stock because I worried that using 3/4" would not give me enough leeway to get a thick enough(strong enough) kick drum. I believe I used 5/4 maple which is really 1 inch thick.
why no horizontal tape length?? just roll out a length, put the staves on top, glue and fold into circle.
Too much chance of pieces coming unstuck. I've had the best results when I've done it the way shown here. Much better for alignment this way.
Is there a chance to get the paper with the dimensions?
Hi Carl. Even better, here is the link so that you can enter the final drum dimensions of your choosing and get the required stave angles and dimensions. uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/
@@tomwalsh4676 Hi Tom!
Thank you very much! Very helpful!
Greetings from Sweden 😀
@@Cellcarl , glad to help.( I didn't realize I was answering from my personal account.) Good luck with your project!
I see a lot of people building their own drum sets or snare drums. I unfortunate don't have the equipment to do it my self.
Hi Niels. I have been wood working on and off for about 35 years. I wasn't creative enough to figure out stave drum building on my own, so I am lucky that I spotted others building drums this way on RUclips. For the last 4 years, I've been going strong with my woodworking hobby and it's because I love making drums. Thanks for the comment!
@@fallenoakdrums I don't have any woodwork skills. Love to watch it.You're welcome. Subscribed.
Mate can I see your DIY chainsaw mill? It looks really perfect!!
Sorry, I disassembled it. After burning out an electric chainsaw on it. I refit it with a small 16 inch gas model, but I still had difficulties. It cut very slowly and rough. I considered buying a really good, powerful saw, but opted instead for a 14" bandsaw, which is not as cool, but gets the job done for the size logs that I have. Izzy Swan came up with design that I used and I think he's got at least a couple videos on his channel about his chainsaw mill.
@@fallenoakdrums all good mate thanks for the info
for my project i was thinking of making only TWO BEVEL CUTS on a long strip of the shell material then proceed to crosscut AS MANY TIMES necessary to create enough staves....
Am i wrong in saying that it looks like more work to repeat 40 bevel cuts at 9°?
Thanks !
No reason that it wouldn't work. I've done that before. On this project, the wood I chose did not have a lot of clear wood so cutting down to blanks made more sense to me. I had to avoid some pretty gnarly spots, avoiding bark inclusions, rotten spots, etc. Thanks for the question and good luck on your project. Once you start building stave drums, its hard to stop! :-)
@@fallenoakdrums Fair enough! That makes sense and thank you for your reply…
Only reason why I was hesitant was for the sake of accuracy and holding a cut of that length as I fed it through the Blade.... or consistency of the bevel itself...
Can I offer you some video production advice? The reason why I ask is sometimes new people get offended when I’m only trying to be constructive…
Here goes… Editing is your friend… Words are not your friend… The people clicking on this video are well aware of all the idiot secrecy’s not pertinent to the actual activity such as accessories that sort of thing so no need to make extra descriptions… good job with the narration it’s always a good idea to provide an over dub where you can be comfortable and speak into the microphone calmly.... if you catch yourself over explaining cut it out of the video someone will ask you in the comments....
And this is a pet peeve that I see lots of people do… As soon as the video starts they explain what they’re gonna do in the video as if the title didn’t just explain it!! 😂🤦🏻♂️
Thank friend and good luck
I suppose if the long board is not stable, has warping or twist, breaking it down to the desired lengths before bevel cut might help. I'm no guru here, but that's how I approach it. I just bought a jointer so will probably try the long bevel cut on future projects. I have no issue with constructive criticism on the video editing. I'm not very good at it and have gained new respect for those who are. I think the overdubbing method is probably what I want to do going forward, just to get around the volume level issues that make editing such a pain in the ass.