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Thank you. I mostly buy from drumfactorydirect.com. Occasionally I will buy SPL snare drums on sale from big box retailers and use those parts which are pretty good quality, on my own shells, and then sell the bare SPL shell off for a few bucks on FB.

I try to keep mine pretty consistent with a round-over outside and 45 degree inside.

Sure! 20x14, 14x14, 12x8. Snare, listed separately on Revetb, is 14 x 5.5.

Thanks Rob! That's quite a nice compliment. I'm always excited about new drums, or new used drums so this is the greatest hobby ever.

Danke für dein Video 👍, Grüße aus Deutschland 👋

Glad you think so!

A few years ago on another video, someone suggested I use "rounded tip bits" for milling. I thought, great idea and bought a set of cove bits, but I found that the overall length was too short for my sled/jig setup. I will have to see if I can find some longer cove or bowl bits.

Thanks. I have not attempted a 10" drum yet, but it's on my list to try one. I am hoping my trim router will work out for inner milling, with a different or modified sled. For sure, this sled setup won't even come close to fitting.

@@fallenoakdrums it's great when it works for 12"! I tried several things for 10" but I could only proceed for 12" as my router is bigger. It really could work with your model when the sled is "tuned" for that.

Thanks! I agree about inside rounding. The outside rounding is so much easier. This is like the 5th jig I've come up with since 2018. They all kind of worked the same way, but I've improved the various components with each iteration. I'm sure it still looks like a total mess, but oh well, it works.

Thanks Rob! I can't wait to see what mind-bending concept you come up with for your full kit. For sure, I will be watching.

I took a break to spend more time with my family....

Thanks! I did try a spring solution but still had trouble. Now I use a cargo strap to hold the drum in place and it's been going very well! Thank you for the nice comment!

Hola otra vez, he visto muchos vídeos y veo que casi todo el mundo lo hacen a mano, he hecho una máquina que ya lo hace sola, gira la caja y la fresadora se mueve sola, me ha llevado un tiempo pensar como hacerla, pero ya hice pruebas con ella y funciona, incluso los chaflanes de los bordes ya los hago con la misma máquina.

That one was probably just under 1/2". I got frustrated by the inner milling process, but would have liked to go for more like 5/16" with thicker rerings, which is what I've been doing on the many snares I've built after this one.

I know what you are talking about. I believe you are referring to that whole edge of the wide part of the stave. If you have the fence dialed in perfectly, it should not be a big deal, but if you are measuring the outer width of the stave after the 2nd cut, it's going to read a little less than it should because of the missing edge. This video is many, many drums ago for me. Now I make my blanks wide enough that my first cut is not to final width. So yes, I will make my first cuts on all staves, then adjust my fence to sneak up on the final desired width. Lately, I've been doing 18 staves so that I can set blade to a 10 degree angle. My desired width is 6.33 cm. Thanks for the question and good luck on your drums!

Lathes large enough to handle the drums I make are many times more expensive than it cost to build a jig. This is a hobby so I try keep the costs reasonable.

Well, I hope my method helps you, or at least triggers a better idea!

Thanks Dave! I appreciate the encouragement!

Probably yes. Finished diameter to shoot for is 13 7/8. I like to leave a little bigger to accommodate sanding and shrinkage. I've made some slightly undersized drums, they still work and can sound great.

Matt, I figured I would follow this one up when I'm ready to mill the bass drum I am about to start on. ( Just bought the lumber today, will cut and glue it this weekend, I hope.) The drum in this video is 14x14, the deepest drum that I have built since 2018 when I built myself a 4 pc kit. However at 14" diameter, it wasn't much different than the snare drum that I made in my first video series just longer horizontally when mounted in the jig. So I think the 20x14 bass drum that I intend to record will be more interesting to show the setup process and milling. Thanks for the comment and the interest.

For a minute there I thought you might be doing a 2fer. Make one long cylinder, cut it in half, and bam!, two snare drums.

That's not a bad idea.

Now I'm interested to see if you can actually make that work.

Thanks Andreas!

Thanks Thom! My bass drum is 20". The toms are 12,13 and 16.

Cool! There must have been a ton of these kits sold. I remember seeing them year after year in the Christmas catalog. I had no real concept of higher ends drums, so to me, they were the best thing ever and I wanted some badly! I ended up with a used MIJ kit for a neighbor, then an new MIJ kit for a local music store, but always had a soft spot for the blue sparkles!

Hi Carl. Even better, here is the link so that you can enter the final drum dimensions of your choosing and get the required stave angles and dimensions. uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/

@@tomwalsh4676 Hi Tom! Thank you very much! Very helpful! Greetings from Sweden 😀

@@Cellcarl , glad to help.( I didn't realize I was answering from my personal account.) Good luck with your project!

To be honest, I usually am not thinking inside versus outside before I cut the bevels. I probably should! Once cut, I just try to arrange in a pleasing pattern. Sometimes I try to alternate different color tones when the staves vary, light to dark. Or I alternate distinctive versus subtle grain, in either case trying not to end up with a drum that is all dark on one side, all light on the other.

I have built 4 walnut snares over the last 4 years. Walnut is my favorite! I have walnut lumber for another 1 or 2 drums now and at some point, I think I am going to build myself a walnut kit. It's such a nice wood to work with.

@@fallenoakdrums Have to agree! :D Love working with it my self. Really want to build a kit to, but you know.. time..

@@fallenoakdrums i have enough walnut to make a 100 drums snares that is hit me up ill hook you up but i want credit in the vid

Hi Fredrik, thanks for the comment. I should look into that. The inner milling is my least favorite step in drum building. I have made improvements since the time of this video, but it still is not as problem-free as I would like it to be!

I also would choose a cove bit for the inside.

Thanks, I hope 2 of my brothers and nephew don't see this, all play banjo! Great instrument, hmmm....maybe I ought to look into that? (The neck to body connection is intimidating to me.)

Too much chance of pieces coming unstuck. I've had the best results when I've done it the way shown here. Much better for alignment this way.

Hi Niels. I have been wood working on and off for about 35 years. I wasn't creative enough to figure out stave drum building on my own, so I am lucky that I spotted others building drums this way on RUclips. For the last 4 years, I've been going strong with my woodworking hobby and it's because I love making drums. Thanks for the comment!

@@fallenoakdrums I don't have any woodwork skills. Love to watch it.You're welcome. Subscribed.

Thank you!

Not really a problem. They were pretty small, didn't blow out during milling and I filled with black epoxy. So they add some interesting detail to the shell. I suppose if I was taking more aggressive passes with the router, they could have been trouble. I probably take about 1/16" per pass.

Hmm, not sure. I guess that since there is some interlocking between the wood pieces on a segmented drum, it may be a stronger than a stave assembly overall. Depending on the wood, I think, you can get a pretty stiff shell with as little as 1/4" thickness, even with staves, although I do prefer to leave thicker re-ring sections (3/8" at least) at the rims to make sure it's nice and stiff. Oh and thanks, I had fun making this one. was pleased with how to final stained/lacquered finish came out!

Hi Chips. We'd probably be talking in the range of 250USD plus shipping & duties. If you think you are interested, I can start on that, but since I'm not doing this full time, I'd rather take this as a "suggestion", rather than an actual order. Then when its done, I'd give you first crack at buying it. My day job keeps me pretty busy, so these projects can drag on for weeks, unfortunately. Makes it hard for me to commit with enough confidence to take custom orders, but I would love to try a 13x6 drum, I've built mostly 14s and one 12". It would be nice to add 13's to my capabilities. Thanks for the interest! Let me know if still interested. I have Facebook page called "Fallen Oak Drums", so that's another way to communicate with me. - Tom

​@@fallenoakdrums I'm just curious at the moment. It's a unique drum and looks sensational. I will find you on FB.

I've added bearing brackets to the top of the drum on my inner milling jig. It's much more stable than the casters I used here. Still not perfect results, but much better now.

Thanks. And yeah, same observation on the staves and clamping out the imperfections. So far I haven't had to scrap any glued up blanks.

No, unfortunately not. I made a 20" kick a few years ago, but did not capture on video. The process is the same. The Uniontown labs stave drum program will work with any size you want, as far as I know. The only major difference for me was that I decided to use thicker stock because I worried that using 3/4" would not give me enough leeway to get a thick enough(strong enough) kick drum. I believe I used 5/4 maple which is really 1 inch thick.

Sorry, I disassembled it. After burning out an electric chainsaw on it. I refit it with a small 16 inch gas model, but I still had difficulties. It cut very slowly and rough. I considered buying a really good, powerful saw, but opted instead for a 14" bandsaw, which is not as cool, but gets the job done for the size logs that I have. Izzy Swan came up with design that I used and I think he's got at least a couple videos on his channel about his chainsaw mill.

@@fallenoakdrums all good mate thanks for the info

Hi Alessandro, I am not sure where you see that measurement and I'd have to do some digging to find that sheet from the video, but the thickness of the shell ended up around 1/4 inch thick, or 6.3 mm. When I'm inside milling I usually shoot for around 6.3mm, but lately I have changed my process. I mill the whole inside to 9.5mm, then I continue to mill most of the drum down to 6.3mm and leave about 25mm wide re-rings (9.5mm thick) at each rim. This gives me a pretty rigid shell, that is mostly thinner for better resonance. The uniontown stave caclulator is great! If you plan to build some drums this way, check out their site: uniontownlabs.org/tools/stave/ . Good luck if you are building drums! Its so much fun.

@@tomwalsh4676 Grazie!

Thanks Marty. I was pretty happy to have pulled that off. Probably the most satisfying thing I've ever done to fix a drum!

It's a monkey off my back that's for sure. Next I'm planning to convert some orphaned drums into a compact bop kit.

Where are you located?

Hi Josue, I'm located in the US, Chicago area. I don't have any shells available at the moment. What size and what kind of wood are you interested in?

@@fallenoakdrums it depends on the prices. I want start with 14x6". I would like to be able to ensamble my own hardware and modifications.

and two sets just like the bearings on the bottom.

Hi Daniel, thanks for the kind words and the drilling tip. I have a bunch of those in the shop, never thought to use for drilling the shells. I'll try that on my next build.

Hi, thank your you comment and question. The angle on the indicator is actually 81 dgrees, not 8 degrees. This is the angle of the blade to the table, and it results in a 9 degree bevel when I cut the wooden staves. 90-81=9. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching my video! From google translation: Ciao, grazie del tuo commento e domanda. L'angolo sull'indicatore è in realtà 81 gradi, non 8 gradi. Questo è l'angolo della lama rispetto al tavolo e risulta in uno smusso di 9 gradi quando taglio le doghe di legno. 90-81 = 9. Spero che possa aiutare. Grazie per aver guardato il mio video!

Grazie per la risposta sei stato davvero molto gentile e utile vorrei chiederti inoltre la misura in centimetri della larghezza di ogni doga grazie ancora

Sei hai consigli da darmi li accetto molto volentieri , vorrei fare un rullante in ulivo di 14 x 3,5 pollici e facendo una prima prova non si è chiuso perfettamente come mi aspettavo ma presentava dei leggeri spazi per questo mi è venuto il dubbio sull’inclinazione del taglio