Sorry my viewers 🙄. I had a real nice soundtrack underneath the video but some jerk on RUclips decides to say it's not copyrighted music and then soon as I upload it it gets flagged so that I can't monetize my video. Total theft of my time. So I had to re-record and re-upload this again without the music. 👉👉If you haven't subscribed yet 👀, please consider doing so, and most importantly click that bell so that you're notified when the next video is released. Thanks for taking the time to view the video 🤜🤛... I truly do appreciate your time and comments. 👍👍👍
Wtf RUclips. We watch to see you work. The music just adds quality to an already fine product. Thats there loss. You know how many songs I got put on to before all the RUclips police stuff. Guess all these artists are gonna miss out on my 99cents.
honestly, there are times where id rather hear whats being done in the vid instead of background music. But yeah, that sucks. Makes me curious what hardware you're working with that takes 50+ mins to do your edits.
Had an old man tell me years ago show me someone that makes no mistakes and I’ll show you someone that’s doesn’t work hard . You da man really enjoy watching you in the many things you do . All ahead full Hoss
I really like how you put that error in there. I really beat myself up when I make mistakes. Im basically a newbie. When i see a tech as good as you that i respect i have to remember it could happen to anyone. Don't get all defeatist, fix the problem and move on. Love your videos man. Keep them coming.✊🏽
You’re welcome. Trane did have some problems with tube rub leaks back in 2010 or so, particularly on the 14 SEER units as I recall. And, they were also having problems supplying replacement coils so the subcooler work around was actually a factory suggestion as a temporary repair until the new coil arrived. However, we found that the units worked very well without a fixed subcooler. It was only because of units being under warranty that many of the coils were replaced in the end. Another situation happened when a homeowner rammed a screwdriver through the middle of the coil for some unknown reason. No coil in stock and insurance wouldn’t pay for a new unit. Again, because that condenser is constructed of loops of spine fin, we simply isolated the damaged loop by cutting it off the discharge and liquid headers, brazing the cuts and put the unit back into service. All in all, a nicely designed coil, in my opinion.
I now know how to take these apart. Thank you for this. I work on everything, even though my job is carrier specific. Nice to see this now I don’t gotta struggle like a botch.
We're a Carrier dealer as well but I've worked for Rudd and Lennox dealers but Trane is not a big seller in the residential side around my area. I mainly see them in the commercial market.
Man i found 100s of Trane coils leaking in the same spot over the years. Fixing and replacing Trane units keeps my belly full lol.Not sure if you know or have seen any older Carrier units that also had the same Spinefin coils about 33-38 years ago. Actually my next door neighbor of 32 years has one of those Carriers with a spinfin coil and it is still working good. Just replaced the original 35/5 capacitor last week on a 101 degree day with 112 heat index. Also replaced condenser fan motor 2 years ago. Great video man keep up the good work. Peace
Thanks Evas Mechanical👍👍. It's all detective work if there's not a dead HVAC system laying on the ground in front of you 😁. Asking the right people the right questions and build your case of what murdered it or abused it. 😲😎👍👍 (That's my version of the big picture analogy)
Nice work, very professional. As another commenter mentioned, you can bypass the bottom subcooler loop if it leaks down there. Depending on your climate zone, the subcooler might not be necessary; up here in Canada I’ve bypassed several leaks and the unit still operates spot on to the charts. The remainder of the coil will still subcool enough. BTW, if you need to change the compressor in an AC unit, (not so easy on the heat pump) strip down the unit and remove the coil as you did, now you have easy access to the compressor. Swage the discharge and liquid line then braze, evacuate and recharge.
Well at least you seen it before you changed the system. I did the same thing. Got my SC set cleaning up system up and running . And dam. Filter drier in wrong . Lol I hate when that happen .
First of all I’ve always enjoy your videos. Man you looks very healthy and skinny that’s totally different from years ago. I remember that I used to watch your old channel. Keep it up sir ! 👍
Great find of a leak in that coil could be from vibration of the unit. Have to use nitrogen when brazing is the long term key. Its the old TXV. Bad belts causes lots of issues. Motor over heats, pulleys wear out, belt brakes, and low performance of the unit. Great video Rick. Like the material you cover. Thank you for the share.
It's not sold around here, and getting my shop to buy something to sit on my truck in hopes of having it when I need it is slim pickings. I have heard it does well on aluminum.
with same spot in coil . I did a lot of research about how to repair coil leak and I found products that would work well with this type of repair. Solder weld “ Alloy Sol “ comes with powder flux is best choice to repair aluminium coils. Thank you @fastlife for your comment it helps me to make my choice to repair the coil , if I succeeded it would save me a lot of money.
Luckily, I have not put a dryer in backwards (yet) but that's because my boss has and makes me check it 14 times before putting flame on it. Good videos.
It doesn't happen often, I was missing around getting the smoke alarm bypassed by the monitoring company and lost track of what I was doing. I figured it builds character 😏
I am looking for an aluminum coil so I can practice my aluminum repair skills. There is a guy in my company that is really good at it. He told me he had an aluminum coil and practiced over and over with propane gas. I have also heard cleaning the aluminum with alcohol.
There's a outfit makes a low temp alum solder for auto use using a propane torch can fix a hole in a beer can .had some lost the name worked well for EVAP leaks .
Nice video there buddy! Trane coils are definitely not that big of a deal to replace the trickiest part in my opinion is learning how to get those panels off
@@HVACRSurvival Easiest way I learned to take them off is wear steel toes, grab the far sides with both hands, and give the bottom middle a tap kick while yanking upwards. Works 99+% of the time. The trick is to kick the panel like you're passing a ball to a little kid. Firm, but not crushing.
I have a 2012 with a Freon leak in the big coil you just put in . They gave me estimate of all day to remove put in the new one and around 2,000 should I look around ? It’s still under warranty parts not labor ,It is a traneYou made it look easy wish I could have you take a look at the heat pump .Thank you for this Video PS it’s really clean the coils are new looking I hose it a lot and it’s not where any grass or trees are
This really depends on what's included in the quote? does this include new refrigerant? This was an R 22 system that stuff goes for over $150 a pound or more. I make it look easy because I've done it for 28 years. Like they say you're paying for all those years that I spent learning the trade not the couple minutes it took me to do it because it didn't always go that easy.
@@HVACRSurvival yes this includes R 12 I thought he said ?? He said it is a special blend they use so they can not use what’s left that haven’t leaked out .He used a snifter to fund leak however no bubble test .. I always wonder could it be sodered? He said they do not do that .Replace the unit is what they are recommending because it is 10 yrs old this July 2023
I’m not sure if this will get responded to, but why do you put the filter drier on the inside ? I’ve always installed them in the outdoor unit side by the valves. Just curious. Cheers🎉
That Trane portion of the video looked high definition! Change of camera or I haven't been keeping up with you lately? As always, thanks for putting out content again.
Not a tech, so this might be a dumb question. Any particular reason to use a braze in filter/drier vs one with flare fittings for ease of future servicing/replacement?
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks for the reply, that makes perfect sense. I never even considered the issues of higher pressures with R-410a. And DUUUHH no isolation valves, LOL.
Question? I have ac unit that is 18 years old, a tech said it was the compressor that was bad he is recommending changing the whole unit in side and out at a cost $3000 to $3500 for new system, in your experience is this true, or is it better to replace the compressor
I had to rewatch the video since it's been awhile. Looks like I did nitrogen for the inside but the outside I did not because of the location of the service valves made it difficult. As far as your question on the vacuum, looks to me like I cut that section out because this was a simple job and didn't want to bore people watching paint dry. Let me ask you this, what kind of vacuum hoses do you use? What kind of micron gauge do you have? Do you pull every system down below 500 and have it hold below 500 micron for over a 30 minutes? Now be truthful
@@HVACRSurvival I use Appion Megaflow 1/2” x 1/4” FL for every evacuation using only VCRTs-no more pulling vacuums through the service manifold. I use a BluVac + Pro micron gauge that performs the decay test. I purge nitrogen for everything I braze and I evacuate to at least 400 µm for everything. As everyone and HVAC should be, I am paid by the hour, and there are no shortcuts. I’ve seen the old timers set up the vacuum pump walk away and smoke a cigarette and come back and call it done because the gauge read 30 inches Hg. A lot of leaks get left behind that way.
At the pump is not the recommended location. It's better to have it either at a different location on the system being evacuated or on the valve core removal tool. This allows you to isolate the vacuum pump from the system and do a blank off test. This helps verify that the vacuum is not only deep but stays deep when it's isolated.
Kinda annoys me when people dont keep bushes etc trimmed back away from units.. So i asked on another channel also but... If after a customer had multiple visits from 2 companies that customer personally found the cause of a problem they were having was a stuck contactor (Not a bad CAP or logic board or high pressure switch like they were lead to believe was the cause), what would you do?
Sometimes it's hard to catch the problem if it won't act up while you're there. I try to look over the contactor and if there is any doubt about it or the capacitor they get changed. If it was mine I would call both companies and explain the issue, see how they respond. If they are reasonable they should either work with you on the bill or do something to make it right. At least that's what I would do.
@@HVACRSurvival Thats reasonable, But... Heres the thing... For the upstairs unit that i had replaced a few months ago, The old unit started acting up last year during a heat wave, the company i had at the time came out a total of 5 times total because they thought they fixed it but they didnt (It reset when they cut the power so when it started working normally they thought they fixed it) and it wasnt until i did some troubleshooting that i figured out what was going on. I found out that i could reset the unit by using the wet/dry switch, it would then reset the unit after the 5 minute delay and allow it to work for exactly 3 On/Off cycles before it had to be "reset" again to work normally. So since the company was full of idiots i got rid of them and went with a different company, which after seeing it for the first time immediately said it was because of the High Pressure Switch, supposedly because of an LED light being lit, though i didnt personally see it. So we had the whole upstairs unit replaced, which i do have to say i Loveeeee. A Few months ago the downstairs unit started doing the exact same thing and was able to again get it working a number of times before needing to be "reset". All of a sudden the unit started working Normally for nearly a month and then started acting up again a week or 2 ago. So i did some troubleshooting. They initially wanted to try replacing the logic board (Super Tinyyyyyyy little thing) and the CAP, wasnt spending $200+ for that so didnt happen.. So i took it upon myself last week and bought a $20 CAP of the same rating, that sadly didnt fix it. Then i remember seeing videos here n there mentioning the contactor and i did recall that something did look off with the contactor, so i nudged it a little and PLOP it came unstuck, there was a little rust/corrosion on the bits it would make contact with so i cleaned it up a little and the unit has been working flawlessly ever since, i'm sure the new CAP helped in some form too though. But yeah i'll consider what you said The next time i'll be seeing them is for Winter maintenance so i'll bring it up with the guy then, i likely will have him replace the contactor depending on its cost just in case though so it wont happen again. Sorry for the extremely large wall of text guys
I have a Trane XR15 condenser. It's 11 years old and the coil has a slow leak. How do I go about getting a replacement coil? I'm not sure if it's even available because the XR15 is discontinued.
I believe that's a 15 seer unit if I'm understanding their terminology of model numbers. They still make 13 seer evap coils and you can go to a higher efficiency evaporator if that's where it's leaking? you'll likely have to go through a dealer and they should be able to match something up.
@@gregflorko8402 find a company that has solder weld for aluminum and have them repair the aluminum spot that's leaking. It can easily be done now. Just got to find the right company to do it.
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks. That's what I was thinking. The HVAC tech that I had here said the coil is a combination of copper and aluminum and that it was not fixable. I don't recall his exact explanation. That company quoted me over $2,800 to replace the coil assembly or $4,000 to $6,000 (depending on tonnage) to replace the entire condenser. I told him that I didn't need an entirely new system. The indoor components, thermostat and evap coils are good. I asked him to clarify that the 4 to 6 thousand was for a condenser only with installation and he said that was correct. I'm seeing brand new condensers advertised on line for about $1,200. I've also watched RUclips videos that explain the process of replacing a condenser unit and it doesn't look like it's anything complicated. They drain the coolant from the old one, disconnect the coolant in and out lines and the power, level the mounting area, hook up the new one, braze the lines, charge the coolant and turn it on. I can't see that being over $1,000 worth of labor at the most. I think I was quoted about double what it should cost. It sounds to me like they're trying to take about $1,000 markup on the equipment and charge me another $2,000 for labor. I'm not hiring them to do the job. Can I order a condenser on-line if I'm not a licensed HVAC vendor? If so, who would you recommend? Thanks.
The setup for the vacuum threw me off for a second 😂😂 I'm use to the vacuum and manifold gauge set up but shit im green as hell i just order that field piece micron gauge
@@prettycureforever7102 if you want to speed up your evacuation times and eliminate several leak points you should try the 2 hose system with vcr tools. I never believed it until I tried it 👍👍
@@prettycureforever7102 I use 3 Schrader core tools, and 2 hoses. I learned it from AC service tech, and its a bit cheaper than HVAC Survival's method. Here's the video ruclips.net/video/wYZ8Wudksb0/видео.html A vacuum only takes me about 5-10 minutes depending on lineset run and system size with a 6cfm pump.
Getting B/EMS involved...Oh heck no, that drier would be installed outside on my job. 10 min. tops and that's with wet ragging it. Not sure what the big deal is with everyone having a problem with installing driers outside. If done properly, the drier will outlast any of the crap ANY manufacturer is making today, including salt spray areas.. /rant anyway.. thanks for the video, Nice bonus material. :-)
I use to always put them outside. I still will at times but I now try to do them inside for the 1% better chance of catching something before the metering device and the rust factor.
@@Froggability Sounds good to me. I use to do it outside all the time. I even did mine at my house on the outside. But as time goes on I try to do it just little bit better than I did the last time.
There's several reasons why, (Warranty coat, safety, and professionalism) but the biggest one would be I've seen it fail to seal a refrigeration system multiple times.
Or just paying better attention 👀😁. I think it was more of me not paying closer attention and all the piping and electrical breaking the visual line of travel making it less obvious.
Such a bloody shame I can't get my hands on the tru blue hoses ! My VACCUM pump is a joke compared to the Fieldpiece one , and I work on big systems with no oil separator , so you can Imagine how long it takes me to pull a bloody vaccum... Try to make my boss understand that we need better tools to do a better job but the answer is always the same : too expensive, you don't need them fancy tools to do a decent job , your colleagues manage just fine with what they've got ... I'm lost for words 😒
I understand what your saying, people I speak with feel it's stupid to use them and don't want to learn the basic science of how these things work. After awhile I just worry about my self because in the end, I'm the only one I can control.
@@HVACRSurvival honestly if I could I'd probably buy them hoses for myself out of my own pocket, but I just can't find them over here , Accutools need to find a way to enter the European market . We're pulling vaccums with charging hoses , that alone doesn't make any sense if you pause and think about it , really ...
Does everyone realized it was not my decision? If that's what the customer wants to do and they accept the responsibility. Who cares what they do. They were given the option to replace it and they chose not to. I can't twist their arm or beat him to a pulp until they buy it. LOL
@@HVACRSurvival Turkey in istanbul. It's great to watch how professionals from different countries work and great to interact with. I am using google translate, it may be wrong translation. I don't want to be misunderstood🙏
@@HVACRSurvival 😁😁 I know what you're doing. You describe the problem and explain what happened and some subtleties. Then you fix it. Yes, I don't really understand your language but I enjoy watching it. I am also repair small air conditioning systems and washing machines.
I'm not a Trane guy so it never occurred to me that button of the coil was just a extra capacity subcooler?. Someone else mentioned that as well, it's definitely something I will take into consideration next time. 👍👍
Yeah I wouldn't have gave the option of repair..... That wouldn't benefit them in the long run. If the AHU was in good shape it would've got a new ID coil and outdoor unit
It was the decision of the board of directors and the head maintenance. This was for the basement and they technically didn't occupy that area of the building so it wasn't important to them. 🤷🏻♂️ You eventually learn to accept it's not your building and not your money. So whatever 😏
Sorry my viewers 🙄. I had a real nice soundtrack underneath the video but some jerk on RUclips decides to say it's not copyrighted music and then soon as I upload it it gets flagged so that I can't monetize my video. Total theft of my time. So I had to re-record and re-upload this again without the music. 👉👉If you haven't subscribed yet 👀, please consider doing so, and most importantly click that bell so that you're notified when the next video is released. Thanks for taking the time to view the video 🤜🤛... I truly do appreciate your time and comments. 👍👍👍
HVACR Survival Isn’t it fun dubbing over the work that you’ve already done. I’ve had to do that a couple times. But it does sound good
Wtf RUclips. We watch to see you work. The music just adds quality to an already fine product. Thats there loss. You know how many songs I got put on to before all the RUclips police stuff. Guess all these artists are gonna miss out on my 99cents.
I know. What's bs is it's said royalty free.
I just pulled it out of my edit and then reformatted it and re-uploaded it. Takes about an extra 50 minutes to upload and process 😠
honestly, there are times where id rather hear whats being done in the vid instead of background music. But yeah, that sucks. Makes me curious what hardware you're working with that takes 50+ mins to do your edits.
Had an old man tell me years ago show me someone that makes no mistakes and I’ll show you someone that’s doesn’t work hard . You da man really enjoy watching you in the many things you do . All ahead full Hoss
Thanks for the kind words, I'm just doing what I can do.
Glad you didn’t edit the filter dryer install backwards. We have ALL done it. It shows your honesty and practical job experience. Nice job.
Thanks, I agree, I try to be real and not pretend I don't screw up and have problems. Because I do 😲😏😁
Every filter/drier on my van is bi directional
I have them, there nearly double to triple the cost for a sporlan.
DOHHHHH. just one of those days :)
the best part is, I missed it being backwards because the big shhh smiley lol
Your slacking 😁
I really like how you put that error in there. I really beat myself up when I make mistakes. Im basically a newbie. When i see a tech as good as you that i respect i have to remember it could happen to anyone. Don't get all defeatist, fix the problem and move on. Love your videos man. Keep them coming.✊🏽
Sherwin that's really nice of you to say 👍👍. I'm just a average tech trying to help give the newer guys some extra resources to learn from.
You’re welcome. Trane did have some problems with tube rub leaks back in 2010 or so, particularly on the 14 SEER units as I recall. And, they were also having problems supplying replacement coils so the subcooler work around was actually a factory suggestion as a temporary repair until the new coil arrived. However, we found that the units worked very well without a fixed subcooler. It was only because of units being under warranty that many of the coils were replaced in the end. Another situation happened when a homeowner rammed a screwdriver through the middle of the coil for some unknown reason. No coil in stock and insurance wouldn’t pay for a new unit. Again, because that condenser is constructed of loops of spine fin, we simply isolated the damaged loop by cutting it off the discharge and liquid headers, brazing the cuts and put the unit back into service. All in all, a nicely designed coil, in my opinion.
I never thought about it till this video review 👍👍.
I now know how to take these apart. Thank you for this. I work on everything, even though my job is carrier specific. Nice to see this now I don’t gotta struggle like a botch.
We're a Carrier dealer as well but I've worked for Rudd and Lennox dealers but Trane is not a big seller in the residential side around my area. I mainly see them in the commercial market.
HVACR Survival I see here I don’t see to many of them but enough that it’s nice to know
Man i found 100s of Trane coils leaking in the same spot over the years. Fixing and replacing Trane units keeps my belly full lol.Not sure if you know or have seen any older Carrier units that also had the same Spinefin coils about 33-38 years ago. Actually my next door neighbor of 32 years has one of those Carriers with a spinfin coil and it is still working good. Just replaced the original 35/5 capacitor last week on a 101 degree day with 112 heat index. Also replaced condenser fan motor 2 years ago. Great video man keep up the good work. Peace
🤣🤣🤣👍👍 have a great weekend, thanks 4 watching!
Great video Rick, i catch your live shows on the rerun, because of my hours. I learn more about attention to detail after watching your videos
Thanks Evas Mechanical👍👍. It's all detective work if there's not a dead HVAC system laying on the ground in front of you 😁. Asking the right people the right questions and build your case of what murdered it or abused it. 😲😎👍👍 (That's my version of the big picture analogy)
Nice work, very professional. As another commenter mentioned, you can bypass the bottom subcooler loop if it leaks down there. Depending on your climate zone, the subcooler might not be necessary; up here in Canada I’ve bypassed several leaks and the unit still operates spot on to the charts. The remainder of the coil will still subcool enough. BTW, if you need to change the compressor in an AC unit, (not so easy on the heat pump) strip down the unit and remove the coil as you did, now you have easy access to the compressor. Swage the discharge and liquid line then braze, evacuate and recharge.
That's a good thing to know 👍👍i will definitely try that option to get a system back to operation in critical situations. Thanks for the tip 👉👍👍
Wow big job to replace the condenser box
Nice neat job Rick thanks for taking the time to make these videos we appreciate it
You got it Chris 👍👍. It took longer to cut it up than to do the repair 🤣🤣
Gotta love that pre-work-hardened mystery Chinese copper. Bitten me a few times with how easily it cracks under the SLIGHTEST vibration load.
I believe that's made in the USA but I could be mistaken? 🙄
@@HVACRSurvival Yum, this crow is tasty. . . 😅
I could be wrong but who knows anymore 🤣
That last leak is just unbealievable 🤯
I haven't seen you in a while, 👍👍 glad to see your still around, thanks 4 viewing it!
Agree, and the question is how?!?!? 🤔
Always a pleasure enjoying your workmanship
That's really cool of you to say👍👍🤜🤛 . I appreciate you taking the time to respond!
Well at least you seen it before you changed the system. I did the same thing. Got my SC set cleaning up system up and running . And dam. Filter drier in wrong . Lol I hate when that happen .
I agree, it could have been worse just like that 👍👍
First of all I’ve always enjoy your videos. Man you looks very healthy and skinny that’s totally different from years ago. I remember that I used to watch your old channel. Keep it up sir ! 👍
Thank you sir, I've lost about 80 to 85 lb. It makes life a little easier. It sucks watching what you eat but it's good all the same 👍👍
Just carry the bi-directional heat pump filter dryers and you're always right!
I have them but there about double the cost. Good idea otherwise 👍👍
Great find of a leak in that coil could be from vibration of the unit. Have to use nitrogen when brazing is the long term key. Its the old TXV. Bad belts causes lots of issues. Motor over heats, pulleys wear out, belt brakes, and low performance of the unit. Great video Rick. Like the material you cover. Thank you for the share.
As always Ray, you have been a great supporter of my channel 👍👍 thanks man!
Rick you are very welcome. Love to support you always. Great guy doing great things. Keep up the great work.
Had one leaking at the bottom last week. Used solderweld al-cop was able to braze the copper to aluminum, saved them from purchasing a new coil.
It's not sold around here, and getting my shop to buy something to sit on my truck in hopes of having it when I need it is slim pickings. I have heard it does well on aluminum.
with same spot in coil . I did a lot of research about how to repair coil leak and I found products that would work well with this type of repair. Solder weld “ Alloy Sol “ comes with powder flux is best choice to repair aluminium coils. Thank you @fastlife for your comment it helps me to make my choice to repair the coil , if I succeeded it would save me a lot of money.
Your hey scared my poor 🐈 to death 😅 that's the first time you've ever scared the cat. LOL you did a great job
Good 1 Slick Rick ... We appreciate em all ...
Thanks Eddy👍👍
As always, good stuff. Always learning and the commentary is absolutely priceless😊
Cant wait for another one or a live stream.
Thanks bud 👍👍I appreciate you checking it and leaving me feedback.
I’ve had those spun driers bust and spread bb’s through everything. Get rid of them at every opportunity. Great video. 👍
I agree, I don't like them either 👍👍
Being a Trane dealership I can’t tell you how many of those coils I’ve replaced because of a leak in that s as same spot. Keep the videos coming 👍
trane is nothing but overpriced junk
They are all junk. I work on all brands and they all fail and they all are cutting corners to put more money in the shareholders pocket 😏👎👎
Just delete the bottom row of coils, old unit anyway saves bucks $$
That's what I'm hearing. News to me, I figured it would be higher head pressure.
I'd rather they just had replaced it 🤷🏾♂️
Luckily, I have not put a dryer in backwards (yet) but that's because my boss has and makes me check it 14 times before putting flame on it. Good videos.
It doesn't happen often, I was missing around getting the smoke alarm bypassed by the monitoring company and lost track of what I was doing. I figured it builds character 😏
I am looking for an aluminum coil so I can practice my aluminum repair skills. There is a guy in my company that is really good at it. He told me he had an aluminum coil and practiced over and over with propane gas. I have also heard cleaning the aluminum with alcohol.
I would like to try the solder weld kit 👍👍
@@HVACRSurvival Dude! A garage video on it would be great! Then you can add a por to pressure test. That's if it doesn't go to hell of course hahah
There's a outfit makes a low temp alum solder for auto use using a propane torch can fix a hole in a beer can .had some lost the name worked well for EVAP leaks .
I have one like that and it did not work, I heard good stuff about solder weld and millhoff.
@@HVACRSurvival thanks
Good video Rick . I always install a sight glass on systems with large linesets . Not a big fan of those copper spun driers. Stay safe !!!
Just remember you can't charge a ac without a receiver by the sight glass. I have one on my heatpump just so I can see what going on inside 👍👍
Great video by the way!!
Thank you 👍👍. I'm glad you liked it.
Nice video Rick 👍
Thanks Ryan 👍👍
Great video today. You are the man !!
Thanks 🐻👍👍
Great video brother. Finally able to check some of your videos out. Definitely good info bud. Keep it up. 💪🏻👊🏻🤟🏻
Thanks man 👍👍 I appreciate you taking the time to check them out 🤜🤛.
Nice video there buddy! Trane coils are definitely not that big of a deal to replace the trickiest part in my opinion is learning how to get those panels off
Yeah, that took a minute to figure out but after a few days I got it 🤣🤣👍👍
@@HVACRSurvival Easiest way I learned to take them off is wear steel toes, grab the far sides with both hands, and give the bottom middle a tap kick while yanking upwards. Works 99+% of the time. The trick is to kick the panel like you're passing a ball to a little kid. Firm, but not crushing.
That's a good analogy 😁👍👍. Thanks 4 the info!
Awesome video.
Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to watch it 👍👍
I have a 2012 with a Freon leak in the big coil you just put in . They gave me estimate of all day to remove put in the new one and around 2,000 should I look around ? It’s still under warranty parts not labor ,It is a traneYou made it look easy wish I could have you take a look at the heat pump .Thank you for this Video PS it’s really clean the coils are new looking I hose it a lot and it’s not where any grass or trees are
This really depends on what's included in the quote? does this include new refrigerant? This was an R 22 system that stuff goes for over $150 a pound or more. I make it look easy because I've done it for 28 years. Like they say you're paying for all those years that I spent learning the trade not the couple minutes it took me to do it because it didn't always go that easy.
@@HVACRSurvival yes this includes R 12 I thought he said ?? He said it is a special blend they use so they can not use what’s left that haven’t leaked out .He used a snifter to fund leak however no bubble test .. I always wonder could it be sodered? He said they do not do that .Replace the unit is what they are recommending because it is 10 yrs old this July 2023
Where those kevlar industrial clutching belts?
Nice work , puts money in your pocket
Yes it does and makes them happy to.
Great video!
Thank you for checking it out 👍👍
Nice job and video
Thanks Donnie 👍👍. I appreciate the view!
I'm curious, the original coil is copper/ali truly not fixable? Or didn't try?
We usually braze repair at least 90% coil leaks no problem.
The leak was in the aluminum not the copper. I have tried repairing a Trane coil once before and it did not work.
The clip on the fan cover is on the outside. It looks like it should be tucked behind the condenser grille.
I corrected it before I left. Good catch 👍👍
I’m not sure if this will get responded to, but why do you put the filter drier on the inside ? I’ve always installed them in the outdoor unit side by the valves. Just curious. Cheers🎉
Less likely to rust, and it's right before the metering device.
That Trane portion of the video looked high definition! Change of camera or I haven't been keeping up with you lately? As always, thanks for putting out content again.
I record at 1080 60fps, sometimes the lighting makes all the difference.
Crap happens " man " real world applications. Got to love it or get in a different field . Thanks for passing it forward.
You betcha Joe 👍👍
Not a tech, so this might be a dumb question. Any particular reason to use a braze in filter/drier vs one with flare fittings for ease of future servicing/replacement?
Possible leaks is why when your using R-410a and there was no isolation valves to change it anyway if I wanted to. Thanks 4 watching!
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks for the reply, that makes perfect sense. I never even considered the issues of higher pressures with R-410a. And DUUUHH no isolation valves, LOL.
😁👍👍
Question? I have ac unit that is 18 years old, a tech said it was the compressor that was bad he is recommending changing the whole unit in side and out at a cost $3000 to $3500 for new system, in your experience is this true, or is it better to replace the compressor
If it's R22 and 18 years old, I would replace it. That's a fair price.
Did you purge with nitrogen during brazing? You don’t shoot for
I had to rewatch the video since it's been awhile. Looks like I did nitrogen for the inside but the outside I did not because of the location of the service valves made it difficult. As far as your question on the vacuum, looks to me like I cut that section out because this was a simple job and didn't want to bore people watching paint dry. Let me ask you this, what kind of vacuum hoses do you use? What kind of micron gauge do you have? Do you pull every system down below 500 and have it hold below 500 micron for over a 30 minutes? Now be truthful
@@HVACRSurvival I use Appion Megaflow 1/2” x 1/4” FL for every evacuation using only VCRTs-no more pulling vacuums through the service manifold. I use a BluVac + Pro micron gauge that performs the decay test. I purge nitrogen for everything I braze and I evacuate to at least 400 µm for everything. As everyone and HVAC should be, I am paid by the hour, and there are no shortcuts. I’ve seen the old timers set up the vacuum pump walk away and smoke a cigarette and come back and call it done because the gauge read 30 inches Hg. A lot of leaks get left behind that way.
Does the micron gauge give you an accurate measurement when placed on the vacuum pump?
At the pump is not the recommended location. It's better to have it either at a different location on the system being evacuated or on the valve core removal tool. This allows you to isolate the vacuum pump from the system and do a blank off test. This helps verify that the vacuum is not only deep but stays deep when it's isolated.
just curious why you didn't fit the drier at the condenser?
Two reasons, the big one is I can pump the system down and change it and the other is to prevent rusting of the metal shell after it has been brazed.
Almost like they knew it was going to go bad exactly 😂
🤣🤣👍👍
Kinda annoys me when people dont keep bushes etc trimmed back away from units..
So i asked on another channel also but... If after a customer had multiple visits from 2 companies that customer personally found the cause of a problem they were having was a stuck contactor (Not a bad CAP or logic board or high pressure switch like they were lead to believe was the cause), what would you do?
Sometimes it's hard to catch the problem if it won't act up while you're there. I try to look over the contactor and if there is any doubt about it or the capacitor they get changed. If it was mine I would call both companies and explain the issue, see how they respond. If they are reasonable they should either work with you on the bill or do something to make it right. At least that's what I would do.
@@HVACRSurvival Thats reasonable, But...
Heres the thing... For the upstairs unit that i had replaced a few months ago, The old unit started acting up last year during a heat wave, the company i had at the time came out a total of 5 times total because they thought they fixed it but they didnt (It reset when they cut the power so when it started working normally they thought they fixed it) and it wasnt until i did some troubleshooting that i figured out what was going on. I found out that i could reset the unit by using the wet/dry switch, it would then reset the unit after the 5 minute delay and allow it to work for exactly 3 On/Off cycles before it had to be "reset" again to work normally. So since the company was full of idiots i got rid of them and went with a different company, which after seeing it for the first time immediately said it was because of the High Pressure Switch, supposedly because of an LED light being lit, though i didnt personally see it. So we had the whole upstairs unit replaced, which i do have to say i Loveeeee.
A Few months ago the downstairs unit started doing the exact same thing and was able to again get it working a number of times before needing to be "reset". All of a sudden the unit started working Normally for nearly a month and then started acting up again a week or 2 ago. So i did some troubleshooting.
They initially wanted to try replacing the logic board (Super Tinyyyyyyy little thing) and the CAP, wasnt spending $200+ for that so didnt happen.. So i took it upon myself last week and bought a $20 CAP of the same rating, that sadly didnt fix it. Then i remember seeing videos here n there mentioning the contactor and i did recall that something did look off with the contactor, so i nudged it a little and PLOP it came unstuck, there was a little rust/corrosion on the bits it would make contact with so i cleaned it up a little and the unit has been working flawlessly ever since, i'm sure the new CAP helped in some form too though.
But yeah
i'll consider what you said
The next time i'll be seeing them is for Winter maintenance so i'll bring it up with the guy then, i likely will have him replace the contactor depending on its cost just in case though so it wont happen again.
Sorry for the extremely large wall of text guys
Nice man.
Thanks John 👍👍
I have a Trane XR15 condenser. It's 11 years old and the coil has a slow leak. How do I go about getting a replacement coil? I'm not sure if it's even available because the XR15 is discontinued.
I believe that's a 15 seer unit if I'm understanding their terminology of model numbers. They still make 13 seer evap coils and you can go to a higher efficiency evaporator if that's where it's leaking? you'll likely have to go through a dealer and they should be able to match something up.
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks.
@@HVACRSurvival It's leaking at the condenser coils. The evap is good.
@@gregflorko8402 find a company that has solder weld for aluminum and have them repair the aluminum spot that's leaking. It can easily be done now. Just got to find the right company to do it.
@@HVACRSurvival Thanks. That's what I was thinking. The HVAC tech that I had here said the coil is a combination of copper and aluminum and that it was not fixable. I don't recall his exact explanation. That company quoted me over $2,800 to replace the coil assembly or $4,000 to $6,000 (depending on tonnage) to replace the entire condenser. I told him that I didn't need an entirely new system. The indoor components, thermostat and evap coils are good. I asked him to clarify that the 4 to 6 thousand was for a condenser only with installation and he said that was correct. I'm seeing brand new condensers advertised on line for about $1,200. I've also watched RUclips videos that explain the process of replacing a condenser unit and it doesn't look like it's anything complicated. They drain the coolant from the old one, disconnect the coolant in and out lines and the power, level the mounting area, hook up the new one, braze the lines, charge the coolant and turn it on. I can't see that being over $1,000 worth of labor at the most. I think I was quoted about double what it should cost. It sounds to me like they're trying to take about $1,000 markup on the equipment and charge me another $2,000 for labor. I'm not hiring them to do the job. Can I order a condenser on-line if I'm not a licensed HVAC vendor? If so, who would you recommend? Thanks.
Are you still allowed to fill R22 in the US? It's been illegal in Sweden since 2005 i think.
On repairs yes, I believe until it's all gone. But we can't import it make it.
January of 2020 is when they stopped manufacturing R22.
Good vid
Thanks RJ👍👍🤜🤛
Two hoses for the vacuum?...just learned something
How many hoses do you normally use?
@@HVACRSurvival lol the normal 3 hoses
The setup for the vacuum threw me off for a second 😂😂 I'm use to the vacuum and manifold gauge set up but shit im green as hell i just order that field piece micron gauge
@@prettycureforever7102 if you want to speed up your evacuation times and eliminate several leak points you should try the 2 hose system with vcr tools. I never believed it until I tried it 👍👍
@@prettycureforever7102 I use 3 Schrader core tools, and 2 hoses. I learned it from AC service tech, and its a bit cheaper than HVAC Survival's method. Here's the video ruclips.net/video/wYZ8Wudksb0/видео.html A vacuum only takes me about 5-10 minutes depending on lineset run and system size with a 6cfm pump.
I wonder how much is that job? Probably same price as replacement of the unit?!!
Not every company is screwing the customer. Sorry to bust your bubble.
ur not the only one with the filter drier ....lol
Thanks Knoxville, I appreciate you saying that 👍👍
No nitrogen purge while brazing? :(
You're correct they're eagle eye, I needed to hook up the condenser coil before I could run my nitrogen through the system. I used it everywhere else.
Getting B/EMS involved...Oh heck no, that drier would be installed outside on my job. 10 min. tops and that's with wet ragging it. Not sure what the big deal is with everyone having a problem with installing driers outside. If done properly, the drier will outlast any of the crap ANY manufacturer is making today, including salt spray areas.. /rant anyway.. thanks for the video, Nice bonus material. :-)
I use to always put them outside. I still will at times but I now try to do them inside for the 1% better chance of catching something before the metering device and the rust factor.
We braze the filter outside, a puff of zinc spray slows corrosion
@@Froggability Sounds good to me. I use to do it outside all the time. I even did mine at my house on the outside. But as time goes on I try to do it just little bit better than I did the last time.
How the copper pipe might leak refrigerant!?!?!?!??!?! is it real?
I'm confused if your asking or making a statement and if so what your saying?. The leak was in the aluminum. Not the copper.
I use jb weld on anything, why couldn't you use jb weld and let it fix the hole?
There's several reasons why, (Warranty coat, safety, and professionalism) but the biggest one would be I've seen it fail to seal a refrigeration system multiple times.
A sharpie would have sorted the drier orientation issue!
Or just paying better attention 👀😁. I think it was more of me not paying closer attention and all the piping and electrical breaking the visual line of travel making it less obvious.
I wouldn't want aluminum on evap or condenser, they seem to leak bigtime over copper.
Such a bloody shame I can't get my hands on the tru blue hoses !
My VACCUM pump is a joke compared to the Fieldpiece one , and I work on big systems with no oil separator , so you can Imagine how long it takes me to pull a bloody vaccum... Try to make my boss understand that we need better tools to do a better job but the answer is always the same : too expensive, you don't need them fancy tools to do a decent job , your colleagues manage just fine with what they've got ... I'm lost for words 😒
I understand what your saying, people I speak with feel it's stupid to use them and don't want to learn the basic science of how these things work. After awhile I just worry about my self because in the end, I'm the only one I can control.
@@HVACRSurvival honestly if I could I'd probably buy them hoses for myself out of my own pocket, but I just can't find them over here , Accutools need to find a way to enter the European market .
We're pulling vaccums with charging hoses , that alone doesn't make any sense if you pause and think about it , really ...
That's what I was doing 7 years ago. It will work just not as fast or as deep of vacuum.
the compressor will probably fail a few days later,i would never replace just the coil on a residential split system,unless it's a warranty job,
Does everyone realized it was not my decision? If that's what the customer wants to do and they accept the responsibility. Who cares what they do. They were given the option to replace it and they chose not to. I can't twist their arm or beat him to a pulp until they buy it. LOL
you didn't put the unit back together very good tops not tucked in
I noticed it when I put the door back on for the electrical section. Good catch 👍
It’s a leaker mama
🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 Yep!
👍👍👍
Thanks man 🤜🤛👍👍
Çok iyi 🖒🖒🖒
Thanks 👍👍. Where you located?
@@HVACRSurvival Turkey in istanbul. It's great to watch how professionals from different countries work and great to interact with.
I am using google translate, it may be wrong translation. I don't want to be misunderstood🙏
No your translation was perfect. That's really interesting, so how do you watch my videos if you don't speak english?
@@HVACRSurvival 😁😁 I know what you're doing. You describe the problem and explain what happened and some subtleties. Then you fix it. Yes, I don't really understand your language but I enjoy watching it. I am also repair small air conditioning systems and washing machines.
That's really cool 👍👍. Stay safe out there.
Try this next time Trane KIT01146
Interesting. Thank you!
I just delete the bottom of the coil- subcool loop is all it is
I'm not a Trane guy so it never occurred to me that button of the coil was just a extra capacity subcooler?. Someone else mentioned that as well, it's definitely something I will take into consideration next time. 👍👍
HVACR Survival I've actually deleted an entire circuit from the coil without any distinguishable problems as well ...just to keep in mind.
That would have been handy if it was a critical unit. This one wasn't
That door isn't on correct
Woo0000🤘
Joe Joe, what's up my Canadian brother 👍👍. Thanks 4 checking out the video 🍺🍺.
Isn’t it more practical just change the whole condenser unit?
Speed of replacement is an issue right now. Things are slow to get.
Yeah I wouldn't have gave the option of repair..... That wouldn't benefit them in the long run. If the AHU was in good shape it would've got a new ID coil and outdoor unit
Not my call on what we do and don't quote and there maintenance guy knows what he wants.
@@HVACRSurvival yeah well I reckon that's job security
That's what I was thinking.
Good job. I suggest wearing gloves when handling coils, my hands are proof, lol.
It builds character. I have so many cuts and bruises it don't matter anymore 😏
The landscaper didn’t do you any favors. I did a coil and I spent 20 minutes cutting down vegetation grrrrrr
It's the same old situation🤦🏻👍👍
Just delete the bottom row
. It is a old r22 unit anyway. They won’t notice a loss of capacity or effectiveness
Save bucks$$
👍👍
Who in their right mind pays for a condenser change out on an r22 system?
It was the decision of the board of directors and the head maintenance. This was for the basement and they technically didn't occupy that area of the building so it wasn't important to them. 🤷🏻♂️ You eventually learn to accept it's not your building and not your money. So whatever 😏
That's why I will never install Trane I'll walk away if a customer wants Trane installed and let it be someone else's headache
#382 thumbs up
Thanks Steve 👍👍
#ShitHappens
😁🤣👍🏻👍🏻