Just Watched it many times. Got the Spark Working etc. hopefully 🙏 I will get Lights & horn working. And Hopefully 🙏 It starts for me. Great Video. Thanks
Great video...the guy that wired that Puch needs sitting down and having a chat with though😂 That's odd....although there's 21 different looms for these PA50😊 You have a rectifier fitted, which doesn't look original and not required unless you have indicators, and then that means a battery too. The lighting circuit is 6 volts AC, unregulated on early models, then at some point around 1980 a resistor is installed on bottom fork yoke by the horn.... but only on the dip/low beam circuit to help stop bulbs blowing....leaving the high beam circuit still unregulated😉
Thanks! Funny enough every old Hobbit I've come across has had the rectifier, even the early 1978 models, I'm guessing it's a redundant thing, there is definitely a LOT of wire for such a simple moped.
Good Video have had to wire up one of these myself after last owner had burned out wires to horn/light switch What I did not understand is, to do the engine kills switch you say to ground the positive coil wire ? Why does this not cause an issue, grounding a live wire? 🤔
dumb question but how would i check for power with a multimeter off the yellow (lighting) cable off the stator? trying to hardwire my hobbit and not having anything on my headlights (which once worked but stopped mysteriously). do i need to ground everything? previous owner of my bike didn't seem to have any visible grounds and everything runs. thanks for the video -- it's been an immense help in helping me understand how wiring//points work.
when i test the white black wire from ignition coil with meter to ground i have continuity does this mean the coil is bad. and when i test the white black wire to coil it self i have continuity is coil bad i have no spark
Most likely not - those coils are protected underneath the side covers, it is not common for them to go bad (but not impossible!) Best way to troubleshoot is to on have the black wire from the stator going right to the coil, grounding the other 3 wires from the stator temporarily. Then check for spark - many no spark cases are from dirty points, but also make sure the wires going to the coil aren't pinched and torn, that ended up being the case on this moped.
I'm about to hardwire a 1979 Sears Free Spirit Deluxe Puch/Kromag. I hate those little plastic block connectors with set screws in them that Puch used. The screws vibrate loose, they come loose because the wire compresses, and they rust and corrode. Despite being in nearly new condition cosmetically with only 200 miles on it (which I believe to be accurate) it already had wiring problems. I was getting an intermittent spark, which turned out to be a bad on/off switch. It also had the same type of switch for the headlights, and even had turn signals, which looked hideous, and only worked at full throttle. Those will be going away. All I need is an always on high beam headlight, tail light, I'm going to keep the brake light, but wired only to the front brake, and ignition. I'm going to wire in a much better quality switch to cut the ignition. I can easily get rid of half the wiring and all 4 original switches on it, plus those worthless and ugly turn signals. And every single one of those plastic junction blocks with the set screws.
Hey Travis. Thanks for your videos! I recently bought a non running Gitane confort I noticed it wouldn't spark without connecting the brake lever wires. After getting the bike to run, when I drive it and apply the brakes all lights go out, and the bike stalls. It does have a burnt out taillight bulb. Would that cause it to die? If it is a ground issue where would I start to look for this? Thanks for the vids!
Very common way of wiring on Italian scooters and mopeds, if the rear brake light blows, you loose ignition....this is down to having brake light running off of ignition coil, if engine is running you have brake lights. It's a cost effective way to do it, not the best way though.
It's a map to make sure that you can track the wires later on. If you use different colors I would recommend printing out the diagram and then coloring the wires with the ones that you used.
I recently relocated a new automotive condenser on my peugeot 103 lvs u3 and was able to start it 3 times and was tryimg to adjust the idle but kept running out of gas because i ran a temporary fuel line to the carb. I removed tha temp fuel line and added fuel to the carburator and went to start it and i had no spark. I checked all my connections for tightness and all is good. I rechecked timing. So i turned the flywheel by hand and was checking the points with a multimeter and when the points opened i was still getting a ohms reading instead of getting infinity. Can someone tell me what the problem might be? Thank you
If it's just a halfwave or fullwave rectifier it does not output DC, but it does output only positive voltage. Adding a big capacitor at the output of the rectifier makes it more DC-like, but you won't really have DC unless there's a properly sized regulator after the rectifier. Find a friend with an oscilloscope to check. :)
I have! Most of the aftermarket options are pretty safe. If you dig you might be able to find a late Hobbit OEM electronic ignition from a 1983 model, but most likely you'll be buying the DOS cycles Hobbit CDI which I have on a bike and has served me very well.
Just Watched it many times. Got the Spark Working etc. hopefully 🙏 I will get Lights & horn working. And Hopefully 🙏 It starts for me. Great Video. Thanks
Just starting my first rebuild of a yellow stock hobbit. Thanks for all the tutorials!
Ah I am so glad to gear it! Hobbits are a great platform once you get them dialed in!
hey travis good to see you back
My dog just had her birthday the other day and she had only one wish.... for you to post Part (2/2) BASIC Moped Performance Carb Tuning -- Jetting
Great video...the guy that wired that Puch needs sitting down and having a chat with though😂
That's odd....although there's 21 different looms for these PA50😊
You have a rectifier fitted, which doesn't look original and not required unless you have indicators, and then that means a battery too.
The lighting circuit is 6 volts AC, unregulated on early models, then at some point around 1980 a resistor is installed on bottom fork yoke by the horn.... but only on the dip/low beam circuit to help stop bulbs blowing....leaving the high beam circuit still unregulated😉
Thanks! Funny enough every old Hobbit I've come across has had the rectifier, even the early 1978 models, I'm guessing it's a redundant thing, there is definitely a LOT of wire for such a simple moped.
That's a great color scheme.
Halloween forever!
European Hobbits, (Camino) if no ignition switch use the decompressor as kill switch....so you'd have to hope a thief can't find the choke lever😂
You're welcome!
Finally a moped video!
Good Video have had to wire up one of these myself after last owner had burned out wires to horn/light switch
What I did not understand is, to do the engine kills switch you say to ground the positive coil wire ? Why does this not cause an issue, grounding a live wire? 🤔
Another great tutorial
dumb question but how would i check for power with a multimeter off the yellow (lighting) cable off the stator? trying to hardwire my hobbit and not having anything on my headlights (which once worked but stopped mysteriously). do i need to ground everything? previous owner of my bike didn't seem to have any visible grounds and everything runs. thanks for the video -- it's been an immense help in helping me understand how wiring//points work.
Finally a moped vid!
when i test the white black wire from ignition coil with meter to ground i have continuity does this mean the coil is bad. and when i test the white black wire to coil it self i have continuity is coil bad i have no spark
Most likely not - those coils are protected underneath the side covers, it is not common for them to go bad (but not impossible!)
Best way to troubleshoot is to on have the black wire from the stator going right to the coil, grounding the other 3 wires from the stator temporarily. Then check for spark - many no spark cases are from dirty points, but also make sure the wires going to the coil aren't pinched and torn, that ended up being the case on this moped.
I'm about to hardwire a 1979 Sears Free Spirit Deluxe Puch/Kromag. I hate those little plastic block connectors with set screws in them that Puch used. The screws vibrate loose, they come loose because the wire compresses, and they rust and corrode. Despite being in nearly new condition cosmetically with only 200 miles on it (which I believe to be accurate) it already had wiring problems. I was getting an intermittent spark, which turned out to be a bad on/off switch. It also had the same type of switch for the headlights, and even had turn signals, which looked hideous, and only worked at full throttle. Those will be going away. All I need is an always on high beam headlight, tail light, I'm going to keep the brake light, but wired only to the front brake, and ignition. I'm going to wire in a much better quality switch to cut the ignition. I can easily get rid of half the wiring and all 4 original switches on it, plus those worthless and ugly turn signals. And every single one of those plastic junction blocks with the set screws.
I agree, it is some pretty caveman style wiring, always room for improvement!
Hey Travis. Thanks for your videos! I recently bought a non running Gitane confort I noticed it wouldn't spark without connecting the brake lever wires. After getting the bike to run, when I drive it and apply the brakes all lights go out, and the bike stalls. It does have a burnt out taillight bulb. Would that cause it to die? If it is a ground issue where would I start to look for this? Thanks for the vids!
Hey, it sounds like you may have the hidden ground in the rear brake circuit like on the Sachs Prima 5 I am restoring
@@alexgagnier623 thanks. I'll check it out
Very common way of wiring on Italian scooters and mopeds, if the rear brake light blows, you loose ignition....this is down to having brake light running off of ignition coil, if engine is running you have brake lights.
It's a cost effective way to do it, not the best way though.
when i check all my stator wires to ground they all beep is the stator bad
I’m only 5 and 1/2 minutes into the video but do the color of the wires matter? Or are they to help you determine what wire is where?
It's a map to make sure that you can track the wires later on. If you use different colors I would recommend printing out the diagram and then coloring the wires with the ones that you used.
I recently relocated a new automotive condenser on my peugeot 103 lvs u3 and was able to start it 3 times and was tryimg to adjust the idle but kept running out of gas because i ran a temporary fuel line to the carb. I removed tha temp fuel line and added fuel to the carburator and went to start it and i had no spark.
I checked all my connections for tightness and all is good.
I rechecked timing. So i turned the flywheel by hand and was checking the points with a multimeter and when the points opened i was still getting a ohms reading instead of getting infinity. Can someone tell me what the problem might be?
Thank you
If it's just a halfwave or fullwave rectifier it does not output DC, but it does output only positive voltage.
Adding a big capacitor at the output of the rectifier makes it more DC-like, but you won't really have DC unless there's a properly sized regulator after the rectifier.
Find a friend with an oscilloscope to check. :)
My aftermarket coil has a yellow wire instead of the black
Have you ever fitted an electronic ignition to a PA50?
I have! Most of the aftermarket options are pretty safe. If you dig you might be able to find a late Hobbit OEM electronic ignition from a 1983 model, but most likely you'll be buying the DOS cycles Hobbit CDI which I have on a bike and has served me very well.
You got any for sale?
مرحبا كل التقدير والشكر
tl/dw the whole video, but kudos for keeping the correct wire colors. You should have checked the timing, when you checked for spark.
Timing on the Hobbit is almost never off. They are remarkably reliable in that department...if no other... haha
The sponge is expected to be wet