✅Click here for the proper coil ➜ amzn.to/3fVjMv5 ✅Click here for new breaker points ➜ amzn.to/3dRLqGK For more videos like this, check out: 👉Easiest Way To Make Your Briggs Points Spark Again ➜ ruclips.net/video/EuaRms2R1C4/видео.html 👉How To Diagnose and Read the Color of Your Spark Plug ➜ ruclips.net/video/Tz4uxFMUCOA/видео.html 👉How To Fix Stripped Spark Plug Threads For Free ➜ ruclips.net/video/yY_fuDRltZE/видео.html 👉How To Check For Spark ➜ ruclips.net/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/видео.html You can connect with Steve here too: ✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/ ✅Visit Steve’s PARTS & TOOL STORE ➜ www.amazon.com/shop/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on FACEBOOK ➜ facebook.com/stevessmallenginesaloon ✅Follow Steve on INSTAGRAM ➜ instagram.com/stevessmallenginesaloon/ ✅Follow Steve on TWITTER ➜ twitter.com/SteveSaloon
The process seems straight forward the difficult part is understanding a replacement at the store. The parts guys want to give you original points coil. How do you find a conversion part. Websites don’t give you this info either. Just original parts.
Thank you so much for mentioning that ignition units have to be the right way round. I fought an Honda GCV135, none start, none spark for a very long time, trying all manner of things. The strange thing was that occasionally it would spark and run for a little. Then I saw your video, flipped the ignition unit and it started on the first pull and didn't stop till I shut it down. I didn't know if I should laugh or weep, the relief was so powerful. Thank you for sharing!
I have a Briggs & Stratton 11 Hp Model 253707 Engine that's used on my homemade log splitter. I had to remove the engine's tin shroud and saw a huge mouse nest that filled the entire cavity. When I removed the nest I saw the spark plug wire was completely stripped of insulation. Amazingly the engine did run like that and luckily didn't catch on fire! I ordered a new coil and installed it but it wouldn't run. It was this video that made me flip the coil over and now it is up and running and I'm splitting wood again. The coil had no markings as to which way to position it. I love all of your videos and they are a great help for us DIY. Thanks for the info!
Steve, about 30 (?) years ago I put electronic ignition on an old lawnmower that was left when I bought my house. It gave new life to an old mower. After the handles broke and I replaced them with an old set someone had thrown out, and the mower kept on cutting. Thanks for the memories.
I still have a Kmart-Murray 22" push mower with the 3.5 HP Briggs that my dad bought for me back in 1970. I still have and use it to this very day. It doesn't smoke, has gone through about 5 carburetor diaphragms, a dozen spark plugs, had two valve jobs done by me to set the end gaps/lash to the tappets and an electronic ignition upgrade like Steve just did. Starts on the first pull. The mowing deck has finally begun to rust through last year. Going to bondo over the little holes and keep it alive! It's also on it's 3rd set of wheels. I use it mostly for trimming where my zero turn won't go.
This is a pretty awesome series. Gives you a really good idea of how engines work (air, fuel, spark) and how to restore old ones. I wish I would have had something like this to watch before I started fixing old motorcycles 20 years ago!
You could mention that the electronic ignition coil has an exciter coil. It's the small iron circular object. Attached to it is a darlington transistor that energizes the coil and spark plug.
Steve, I received my ignition coil today. I followed your easy instructions and my tiller is back in commission. Bought a new coil off of e-bay for $15 , lowes wanted $48 and I bet it is the same coil.. Thanks a lot for you information. Tommy
This is definitely the best way to get around taking the flywheel off and dealing with the points and condenser. Those are referred to as pedestals that the coil bolts to and it is a good idea to run a Q-tip down inside of them with isopropyl alcohol before installing the coil. The coil grounds itself through these pedestals so it is a good idea to make sure that the bolts are wire brushed under side of the head and threads as well! I own a chainsaw collection of around 70 saws, And I have seen it before where the coil is nice and clean and you unbolt it and there is oil down inside the pedestals causing a problem with grounding issues.
I have the exact same Dewalt 20 V drill. Used it for starting motors just like you did in this video. Ended up breaking the chuck brake from not having some sort of free wheel mechanism on there for when the engine fires. Cut the handle off of a cheap Chyneezium 3/8 ratchet and tack weld a 3/4” or so 3/8 drive socket to the backside of the ratchet head. The center twist direction selector type ratchet, not the toggle lever type. I tack welded a short chunk of coat hanger to the outer case to where it will prevent the selector from switching to the wrong ratcheting direction after the socket is tacked on there. Gotta take your time and weld slowly with wet sponge breaks so you don’t cook ratchet guts. Made the same type of thing for them dang Troybilt string trimmers with the easystart (jump start, whatever) feature that they were ignorant enough to make the drive hole that connects to the flywheel require an oddly shaped 5 point female proprietary tool to use, and you will end up needing to use it because the spring assist recoil starter pawls are garbage and fail all the time. Ended up making the ratchet starter for these turds using the 5 point drive piece off of the brand new troybilt easystart drill adapter gizmo I bought.. right after it snapped the drive bit off on the first attempt at using the damn thing. Troy Bilt batting 1000.
Probably because too many people these days are too lazy or uninformed to fix their own small engines? They just throw them away and buy another for just a spark plug going bad. I know because I have recovered dozens of push mowers set out for junk pickup and that's all that they needed. A new spark plug, sharpen the blade, maybe a carburetor jet cleaning and then set out front and sold them for $75 - $100. Easy money.
I’m writing on this video to say THANK YOU from a previous one about carbs‘without adjustments'. You even gave a link for the tools to fix the problem. £10 later...1/2 a turn of a screw and the strimmer is running sweetly again. I don’t drink alcohol but throughly enjoyed your channel. ;)
Steve, I think it needs a new flint and is low on lighter fluid. Back in 2024 - I watch you even when you're not addressing something I am working on.....I get a big kick out of your programs and the info is top notch.
Basically what I did to a vintage lawn mower I got a year ago, the only thing I did different was I believe I kept the kill switch wire and didn’t cut it and put quick connect female terminal on it to connect onto the upgraded ignition module. Did end up work and bypassed the points, still wish I watched this prior tho if I had known about this video cause I didn’t sand the terminals and other important parts and just overall hand information I wish I had known and tried before the project. I realize now I truly winged it and must have had luck on my side, I bought a parts mower for $10 and assumed the ignition module would work (thankfully it did) but didn’t think to check the sizing or anything, and by miracle I didn’t put the module upside down. I did however use a business card for the gap 😂 I’ll remember this video for my next restoration with points :)
I have a B&S 2HP but can't find the electronic ignition for it. Would the one for the 5HP work the same? I see a lot of the electronic ignition for the 5HP for sale. Thanks for anyone's help.😉👍
2HP has a smaller flywheel so the 5HP ignition armature shouldn't fit (assuming of course that it has the original flywheel), because the legs of the armature have a different angle on them to fit the smaller diameter of the 2HP flywheel. The points ignition isn't really all that bad but they can be if you neglect the engine and leave it outside to get rained on, etc. The totally wasted rusty, crusty points, condenser and plunger on the one seen in this video is the worst I've ever seen. I've got intact points ignition on a 4HP and others which I intend to keep, because it's neat, it's old school and just a little bit more complexity to a very simple engine. They are pretty reliable in my limited experience. Keep looking for parts--if you know the part number for the 2HP Magnetron (electronic ignition) you can web search all that much better. I'm almost certain there's aftermarket Magnetrons available, even if made of Chinesium. LASTLY: RUclips comments is the worst place to attempt an intelligent conversation and get replies. I'd suggest searching for a "small engine forum" on the web, join it, read up (your question has already been asked) and ask your own question.
Thanks for the suggestion.👍 I just cleaned up the points, they looked nothing like his did. His looked like it sat on the ocean floor for a few years. @@Hjerte_Verke
Steve, I looked at 2 other sites on how to replace the coil on a Briggs engine they both used recycled coils from a parts engine. your episode was the only one that recommended cleaning the contact points between the recycled part and the engine. Having worked in the electronics world for over 20 years that was the best advice you could have given in this episode 4 presentation. not properly cleaning the contact areas on the engine and the replacement part could easily cause more issues in the future.
I used to use a module to convert the old HK & VK35 Kirby - Techumseh engines to electronic ignition. The old Phelon coils on the VK/HK35s were damn near imortal, and always threw a huge spark. The let down was the carburettors they used wore out quickly, becoming unreliable, and frustrating!
Thanks for this series. I have two old 1970’s tillers I am trying to get going again. Sears & Roebucks Craftsman with 5hp Craftsman, and an MTD with the Briggs. Both the same. I really appreciate your knowledge. You are a pro but also down home to my understanding. I feel like I am there with ya in your shop drinking a beer with ya. Now I just need one of your business cards to make sure my gaps are spot on. 😂
See, I have this same engine or one nearly identical and I did this exact same thing to make it run. However I used an electronic coil from a Kohler pressure washer that threw a rod. The only slight issue with mine was that the sparkplug wire was too short but I managed to extend it and very thoroughly insulated the joint with a section of plug wire insulation and two or three layers of shrink wrap. I don't have much plan for the engine at the moment but I'd like to stick it on a go kart
Steve everything you said about that is 100% true but I have made coils that won’t fit the bolt pattern work by drilling out the square holes and making them oblong so that the boat will bolt it up and still have a business card gap between the coil and the fly will great show my friend keep it up I learned of your channel from Billy Ray show
Thanks again for an informative video. I never knew you could install those things backwards. The few times I've taken them off and put them back, or replaced them, I was lucky enough to have done it right. I don't ever remember seeing a THIS SIDE OUT, or other marking on it to tell me otherwise.
Very very cool. Had no idea it was so easy. Probably a million other suggestions for this, my TAFE teacher told us that any cardboard off a cereal packet is perfect for the gap between the coil and the flywheel. Got a piece in my shed for just that purpose.
Tillers are so much fun! Mine runs but haven't quite figured out the right foward belt,and I'm too stubborn to take advice,but as long as I have something to bitch about I don't take it out on the old lady.What I'm trying to say is your videos are very helpful and I have to watch them because my friends always bring me their junk to fix and usually down a few while tearing crap apart.
First thing I did this spring with my old tiller. Worked great. Then clutch quit that's when I found your site and subscribed. Got clutch working but the screws on screen would not fit (too loose) found a couple of self tapping screws and back to tilling. Great Channel
Makes me ask the question can this work on a old Merc 9.8hp boat motor from the 70's or 80's (not sure what year my motor is) but the system is working for now but I have a pull start on it.
I came here looking for a conversion for my 1950 KE-4 Mercury rocket. I suppose if you can get a core to fit inside the concave shape of the flywheel. Being inside though I don't know how you would get it within .01 of an inch
@@fryreartechnology7611 yup! Thank you. If the laminate core fits the coil then you wouldn't have to do all that nonsense I said in my last comment. I'm gonna give it a shot!
Thanks so much for your videos I decided to get rid of the points on the same engine and after doing this I got shocked by the spark and that made my day lol
@5:37 man that's awesome, so well lit, in focus and close-up. Please don't ever change! Would you do an electronical iginition swap on a Mac 10-10? I would love to actually be able to "see it".
Back in the day (1980's) I'd convert my old Briggs engines to electronic ignition using an "Atom universal ignition module". They never lasted long for me, would fail every 3 or 4 years. I prefer doing as Steve did, using an OEM Briggs coil with the module built into it. They last much longer and run better. I'm sure that Steve has seen a few of those Atom modules in his days?
Thank you very much, got an old 5hp Briggs that stopped sparking after winter. Seeing how easy it is to upgrade, just ordered a new electronic coil. Goodbye points and condensers :)
RUclips's A.I. closed caption if on, does not give a correct number. 0.010" is the feeler blade you want to use. Good video. Hey, lighten up and try and have fun! Don't be so serious dude. ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Hey Steve, Great video but please make a note to do a video in the future for converting an old Tecumseh points and condenser engine (that has the magneto BEHIND the flywheel like an old H60 or H70) to an electronic ignition. I see plenty of videos for B&S engines but not for this old style of Tecumseh. I have asked DonyBoy and Taryl multiple times but I they only ever convert B&S engines, NOT Tecumseh conversions with the magneto BEHIND the flywheel for engines like an H60 or H70. Thanks. Also, do you ever try any Belgian beer??? Very good stuff the majority of it!!!
Now that's funny. This comment coincides well with a video of Steve and Bucking Billy Ray fixing an old McCulloch generator. At 51:27 we catch Steve in a baldface lie. "....I'm camera shy, but go ahead." Steve, you are a treasure. I think your channel ought to be required viewing for small engine shop classes. God bless. ruclips.net/video/uI4l8Rw3TXg/видео.html
I did this same upgrade on a 1965 Barracuda I owned way back when. Tune ups were so much easier and cheaper once I made the swap in the distributor. Unfortunately some yahoo ran a stop sign and T-boned me, and that was the end of my beautiful red 'Cuda. Still ran great though even after the wreck.
thanks for the video Steve, for the gap I get myself a 12 pack of coors light and use the package for setting the gap and then when the engine starts I drink the beer to celebrate
can you tell me how to tell a Electronic Ignition coil from a reguler coil and were dose the one wire go to 'thanks this is for my rototiller 5 hp bridggs
I’ve been following your channel for a while now and I just wanted to say thank you cos your content has really helped me out a lot doing my own repairs at home even though I have no experience working with engines. So thank you very much Steve for all your content it’s always helpful and easy to follow,your my go to guy on RUclips for engine repairs and you never let me dawn so thanks again really appreciate the time you take to do these videos ✌️❤️
That business card trick is something an old mentore showed me when I was just a kid, mey he rest in peace, it works fantastic! I've since started useing the Oregon external ignition module and that works mint Aswell! I just did one yesterday on a super 250 mcculloch! I should have filmed it as it worked out great! The saws running but has a leaky Gas tank seal, maybe I'll do a video after all 🤔 lol
Hey Steve Justin here from California, been subscribed to the channel for a while now. Great video thanks for the information I picked up a 1956 Sears Roebuck reel mower with a Briggs & Stratton on it that I'm doing up. The things was surprisingly clean inside despite sitting for years with no oil fill cap and open carb. Very informative thanks for the hack!! Keep the videos coming brother! Much thanks
Great video, Steve! Thanks again. A down-to-earth approach is always the best way to explain things. Appreciate telling me what happens, as well, if you install the coil backwards. If you hadn't mentioned that, I would have been left with that question. I like it when people cover all the bases, including what happens if you do it wrong. :) I was always wondering if you're from the East Coast originally, as I'm from Newfoundland, and I always think you seem to have an east coast accent, for some reason. I have a friend from NB who seems to have the same accent as yours. But perhaps I'm mistaken. I think for the first time I understand about upgrading from breaker points to an Electronic Ignition system. The breaker and points operate on a cam under the flywheel to supply the collapse of the magnetic field built up in the coil, while the electronic ignition has a circuit (either transistor controlled or capacitive discharge controlled) built right into the coil pack. I guess this one would be a TCI unit, wouldn't it? CDI seems like it requires a separate box....
Thanks for providing good sound information to us...I have a problem that requires a little more information...I have a welding machine driven by a 12hp tecumseh, the magneto is bad so I'm thinking I need to upgrade to a electronic ignition....need help....
Awesome......watching now....I'll respond at the end. Excited! Thanks for this ............ ............ Cheers! I broke one off years ago....I drilled it out lol, and 3hrs later I had another bolt in. Pain in the backside! Sandpaper point was very very important! Thanks for that Steve. Pabst Blue Ribbon cheers🍻🍺🍻 Ps...I've seen folks machines with a 1/16" gap and they wondered why it either didn't fire, or was very sluggish.
Seems to me, about ‘90, I bought a small module at K mart that eliminated the points. It didn’t require a coil change, and was around $6.00. Worked fine. That mower is long gone.
Well I just learned a valuable trick and I have 2 old tillers like this. One is shot and has a good coil. Other has a bad points coil. I cant wait to try swapping it over! You're a beauty Steve!
Hi Steve. I enjoy watching your videos sooooo much. Every time I see one I learn something new. You explain things so well. Hope you keep doing what you are doing. Again thanks so much.
You did it the best way .Cost more to buy a electronic Module with a kit and you still have to cut the wires and use Electrical liquid Tape on it. more time and more money .Transistor Module is easy to install but seem easy to blow them apart if you try to Jump Start the Engine.
Taryl had an interesting demonstration on a Kohler? engine. If the coil was installed properly (this side out) the coil wouldn't work. Flip the coil around so the cylinder side was out, it ran. It appears that some engines have the north and south poles swapped. Flilpping the coil meant you didn't have to have the magnet recharged with opposite polarity.
I am surprised that works. On the old chainsaws that I work on that method does not work. We would have to replace the flywheel also because it is timed differently for points vs electronic ignition.
WOW. I knew it was that simple but anything I work on usually is broken in the first place... so I've never gotten the chance to try this out. Awesome job, thanks for the information!
Love your videos. Have learned great deal from you. Question: My Briggs powered chipper shredder would not fire. Spark tester showed no spark. You showed me where the main jet is at the bottom of the fuel bowl. Installed a new coil, new plug, flushed the tank, flushed the carb. Filled with fresh 89 ethanol free gas WITH STABIL added. Pulled the cord and the machine ran. Next day, used machine for an hour, no problem. TWO days later, it will not fire. Plan on flushing it out all over again. WHY are briggs engines so blasted sensitive to humidity? If all ignition coils are not created equal, what is the best brand of coil to buy? Thank you for your videos and your expertise.
An ounce or two of lucas oil stabilizer will help protect the cam and bearings. The splash systems in these engines are decent enough, but the high temperatures coupled with extended idle time can be detrimental to friction surfaces. Straight 30 weight detergent oil either synthetic or regular with the lucas added is my routine. Don't forget to monitor both the level and the hours run, oil changes are both simple and cheap for small engines. I do one at beginning of season of use, and one mid season of use. My Craftsman lt1000 is 20 years old, looks and runs like new.
@@markk3652 Thank you for your input Mark! I will try using some Lucas and see how it goes. Last year I started using Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in one of my push mowers that I don’t care much about just to see if it would start burning oil. I worked it hard and I changed the oil twice during the year and I haven’t seen the oil level go down or any smoke puff out with a cold start. I’m surprised! I heard Amsoil makes a specific small engine 10w-30 oil and I think I am gonna test it out this year for myself on another lawn mower. On the Amsoil website it says not to use additives because it already has specific additives for small engines. I have watched some videos of people talking very highly of it. Maybe you can give it a try too! It is kind of spendy but I like trying new things especially if it protects my engines
Another believer from England, just done this on a 1980's Briggs 5hp but your videos do explain very well and you have given me several good pointers!. You need to check out some Czech beer, it where Pilsner comes from!
I used the same method for gapping the coil, but used the box that the spark plug came in. Unfortunately, I didint have one of your business cards handy :( Another great vid Steve. Nice one.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I do have plenty of new engines too, to admit, I have converted a couple over to electronic ignition, The ones that bug me is when the points underneath the flywheel, I'm lucky that in the climate I'm in, even though it does it get humid in the summer, in Wisconsin, somehow I still don't end up with corroded points.
@@kenbrown2808 I have three of the same model of lower end, leaf blowers, that I got from someone All have extremely weak coils, and I've seen some pretty bad coils run an engine pretty decently, like yellow bad spark.
@@turtmastert3545 point is, before he put the pointless ignition on it, he was getting the points fixed every season. after - no more problems with the ignition.
Loved the video Thank you I am replacing a older twin cyl 20hp briggs with a new twin cyl 20hp briggs and the wiring harness is not the same on the engine.. any ideas would be appreciated.. Mechanical I am pretty good at wiring not so much Thank You
✅Click here for the proper coil ➜ amzn.to/3fVjMv5
✅Click here for new breaker points ➜ amzn.to/3dRLqGK
For more videos like this, check out:
👉Easiest Way To Make Your Briggs Points Spark Again ➜ ruclips.net/video/EuaRms2R1C4/видео.html
👉How To Diagnose and Read the Color of Your Spark Plug ➜ ruclips.net/video/Tz4uxFMUCOA/видео.html
👉How To Fix Stripped Spark Plug Threads For Free ➜ ruclips.net/video/yY_fuDRltZE/видео.html
👉How To Check For Spark ➜ ruclips.net/video/VZ8r7xv3DLY/видео.html
You can connect with Steve here too:
✅Visit Steve’s WEBSITE ➜ www.stevessmallenginesaloon.com/
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Noob
Why use a Darlington pair of transistors?
Why not just use one transistor?
That coil from Amazon doesn't have the stub out for the air diverter
what coil do I need for a 80302-933128 B/S engine to make it Electronic Ignition ?
What transistor??? How will it work? Do you have a how to link or video? Thx
The process seems straight forward the difficult part is understanding a replacement at the store. The parts guys want to give you original points coil. How do you find a conversion part. Websites don’t give you this info either. Just original parts.
Buy any coil that fits the flywheel, either offseas or online. Dont bother really with briggs service,
It was every bit as easy as you said. $15 and 15 minutes from non-running to running snowblower. Terrific hack! Thanks.
Great to hear!
Thank you so much for mentioning that ignition units have to be the right way round. I fought an Honda GCV135, none start, none spark for a very long time, trying all manner of things. The strange thing was that occasionally it would spark and run for a little. Then I saw your video, flipped the ignition unit and it started on the first pull and didn't stop till I shut it down. I didn't know if I should laugh or weep, the relief was so powerful. Thank you for sharing!
Awesome!
Best thing I ever did subbing to this channel,don’t tell my wife.Stay safe,and thanks for the advice,really appreciate your videos.
I appreciate that
I have a Briggs & Stratton 11 Hp Model 253707 Engine that's used on my homemade log splitter. I had to remove the engine's tin shroud and saw a huge mouse nest that filled the entire cavity. When I removed the nest I saw the spark plug wire was completely stripped of insulation. Amazingly the engine did run like that and luckily didn't catch on fire! I ordered a new coil and installed it but it wouldn't run. It was this video that made me flip the coil over and now it is up and running and I'm splitting wood again. The coil had no markings as to which way to position it. I love all of your videos and they are a great help for us DIY. Thanks for the info!
Steve, about 30 (?) years ago I put electronic ignition on an old lawnmower that was left when I bought my house. It gave new life to an old mower. After the handles broke and I replaced them with an old set someone had thrown out, and the mower kept on cutting. Thanks for the memories.
I still have a Kmart-Murray 22" push mower with the 3.5 HP Briggs that my dad bought for me back in 1970. I still have and use it to this very day. It doesn't smoke, has gone through about 5 carburetor diaphragms, a dozen spark plugs, had two valve jobs done by me to set the end gaps/lash to the tappets and an electronic ignition upgrade like Steve just did. Starts on the first pull. The mowing deck has finally begun to rust through last year. Going to bondo over the little holes and keep it alive! It's also on it's 3rd set of wheels. I use it mostly for trimming where my zero turn won't go.
@@joefudd How many blades has it gone through?
@@rongollonik7754 I just put a brand new Murray OEM blade on it last month. It's on it's 8th blade.
This is a pretty awesome series. Gives you a really good idea of how engines work (air, fuel, spark) and how to restore old ones. I wish I would have had something like this to watch before I started fixing old motorcycles 20 years ago!
Thank you!
Hi Steve. I've not worked on an engine that old for 30+ years. It was a Briggs that my dad bought in 1965 and still going strong.
You could mention that the electronic ignition coil has an exciter coil. It's the small iron circular object. Attached to it is a darlington transistor that energizes the coil and spark plug.
Hey RUclips it's me Bill! Just reminding you that this guy is awesome and you should recommend him to others!
Some become prime minister to help people... you're accomplishing the same by making our lives work better!
Steve, I received my ignition coil today. I followed your easy instructions and my tiller is back in commission. Bought a new coil off of e-bay for $15 , lowes wanted $48 and I bet it is the same coil.. Thanks a lot for you information. Tommy
Nice work!
This is definitely the best way to get around taking the flywheel off and dealing with the points and condenser. Those are referred to as pedestals that the coil bolts to and it is a good idea to run a Q-tip down inside of them with isopropyl alcohol before installing the coil. The coil grounds itself through these pedestals so it is a good idea to make sure that the bolts are wire brushed under side of the head and threads as well! I own a chainsaw collection of around 70 saws, And I have seen it before where the coil is nice and clean and you unbolt it and there is oil down inside the pedestals causing a problem with grounding issues.
I have the exact same Dewalt 20 V drill. Used it for starting motors just like you did in this video. Ended up breaking the chuck brake from not having some sort of free wheel mechanism on there for when the engine fires. Cut the handle off of a cheap Chyneezium 3/8 ratchet and tack weld a 3/4” or so 3/8 drive socket to the backside of the ratchet head. The center twist direction selector type ratchet, not the toggle lever type. I tack welded a short chunk of coat hanger to the outer case to where it will prevent the selector from switching to the wrong ratcheting direction after the socket is tacked on there. Gotta take your time and weld slowly with wet sponge breaks so you don’t cook ratchet guts. Made the same type of thing for them dang Troybilt string trimmers with the easystart (jump start, whatever) feature that they were ignorant enough to make the drive hole that connects to the flywheel require an oddly shaped 5 point female proprietary tool to use, and you will end up needing to use it because the spring assist recoil starter pawls are garbage and fail all the time. Ended up making the ratchet starter for these turds using the 5 point drive piece off of the brand new troybilt easystart drill adapter gizmo I bought.. right after it snapped the drive bit off on the first attempt at using the damn thing. Troy Bilt batting 1000.
This is awesome.
I don't know why you don't have over 1 million subscribers
Maybe one day?
383k id say its coming along pretty good. Even project farm started off kinda slow. These channels gain steam as the numbers go up.
Probably because too many people these days are too lazy or uninformed to fix their own small engines? They just throw them away and buy another for just a spark plug going bad. I know because I have recovered dozens of push mowers set out for junk pickup and that's all that they needed. A new spark plug, sharpen the blade, maybe a carburetor jet cleaning and then set out front and sold them for $75 - $100. Easy money.
Because there isn't a million of us silly enough to play around with mowers, chainsaws and small engines! 🤣🤣🤣
@@greyhairedphantom4038 why is it silly to repair your own mower? Why are you here then?
I’m writing on this video to say THANK YOU from a previous one about carbs‘without adjustments'. You even gave a link for the tools to fix the problem. £10 later...1/2 a turn of a screw and the strimmer is running sweetly again. I don’t drink alcohol but throughly enjoyed your channel. ;)
Right on
Steve, I think it needs a new flint and is low on lighter fluid. Back in 2024 - I watch you even when you're not addressing something I am working on.....I get a big kick out of your programs and the info is top notch.
Just what I needed to watch, I was like what are these extra wires, doesn't matter, just cut them and get a new coil. Thanks man
You're Welcome...
Another Master Class. Great educational video to get newbie engine tinkerer’s some confidence on how easy some upgrades are.
Glad you enjoyed it
I am a motor head from Milwaukee. Video warmed my heart
Awesome!
Thank you so much for making these videos Steve. You are a hero to the people. Respect from Scandinavia!
You're Welcome...and Thank You...
Basically what I did to a vintage lawn mower I got a year ago, the only thing I did different was I believe I kept the kill switch wire and didn’t cut it and put quick connect female terminal on it to connect onto the upgraded ignition module. Did end up work and bypassed the points, still wish I watched this prior tho if I had known about this video cause I didn’t sand the terminals and other important parts and just overall hand information I wish I had known and tried before the project. I realize now I truly winged it and must have had luck on my side, I bought a parts mower for $10 and assumed the ignition module would work (thankfully it did) but didn’t think to check the sizing or anything, and by miracle I didn’t put the module upside down. I did however use a business card for the gap 😂
I’ll remember this video for my next restoration with points :)
Nice I have a 3.5 hp Briggs on a rotor tiller that’s going to get the same thing I have all the pieces. This is a great video thank you for sharing
You're Welcome...
Where did you find yor replacement coil ?
I need to check the points gap on my Honda engine on my ride-on. After watching the video, I have complete confidence to do the job. Thanks Steve.
Good luck!
I have a B&S 2HP but can't find the electronic ignition for it.
Would the one for the 5HP work the same?
I see a lot of the electronic ignition for the 5HP for sale.
Thanks for anyone's help.😉👍
2HP has a smaller flywheel so the 5HP ignition armature shouldn't fit (assuming of course that it has the original flywheel), because the legs of the armature have a different angle on them to fit the smaller diameter of the 2HP flywheel. The points ignition isn't really all that bad but they can be if you neglect the engine and leave it outside to get rained on, etc. The totally wasted rusty, crusty points, condenser and plunger on the one seen in this video is the worst I've ever seen. I've got intact points ignition on a 4HP and others which I intend to keep, because it's neat, it's old school and just a little bit more complexity to a very simple engine. They are pretty reliable in my limited experience.
Keep looking for parts--if you know the part number for the 2HP Magnetron (electronic ignition) you can web search all that much better. I'm almost certain there's aftermarket Magnetrons available, even if made of Chinesium. LASTLY: RUclips comments is the worst place to attempt an intelligent conversation and get replies. I'd suggest searching for a "small engine forum" on the web, join it, read up (your question has already been asked) and ask your own question.
Thanks for the suggestion.👍
I just cleaned up the points, they looked nothing like his did.
His looked like it sat on the ocean floor for a few years.
@@Hjerte_Verke
Steve, I looked at 2 other sites on how to replace the coil on a Briggs engine they both used recycled coils from a parts engine. your episode was the only one that recommended cleaning the contact points between the recycled part and the engine. Having worked in the electronics world for over 20 years that was the best advice you could have given in this episode 4 presentation. not properly cleaning the contact areas on the engine and the replacement part could easily cause more issues in the future.
Right on Paul! Thank You...
I used to use a module to convert the old HK & VK35 Kirby - Techumseh engines to electronic ignition. The old Phelon coils on the VK/HK35s were damn near imortal, and always threw a huge spark. The let down was the carburettors they used wore out quickly, becoming unreliable, and frustrating!
Thanks for this series. I have two old 1970’s tillers I am trying to get going again. Sears & Roebucks Craftsman with 5hp Craftsman, and an MTD with the Briggs. Both the same. I really appreciate your knowledge. You are a pro but also down home to my understanding. I feel like I am there with ya in your shop drinking a beer with ya. Now I just need one of your business cards to make sure my gaps are spot on. 😂
See, I have this same engine or one nearly identical and I did this exact same thing to make it run. However I used an electronic coil from a Kohler pressure washer that threw a rod. The only slight issue with mine was that the sparkplug wire was too short but I managed to extend it and very thoroughly insulated the joint with a section of plug wire insulation and two or three layers of shrink wrap. I don't have much plan for the engine at the moment but I'd like to stick it on a go kart
Another show from the legend 'Steve' . This guy is perfect teacher...
Thank You...
Steve you got right to the points.
LOL! Thank You...
Steve everything you said about that is 100% true but I have made coils that won’t fit the bolt pattern work by drilling out the square holes and making them oblong so that the boat will bolt it up and still have a business card gap between the coil and the fly will great show my friend keep it up I learned of your channel from Billy Ray show
Thanks again for an informative video. I never knew you could install those things backwards. The few times I've taken them off and put them back, or replaced them, I was lucky enough to have done it right. I don't ever remember seeing a THIS SIDE OUT, or other marking on it to tell me otherwise.
Glad to help
Very very cool. Had no idea it was so easy.
Probably a million other suggestions for this, my TAFE teacher told us that any cardboard off a cereal packet is perfect for the gap between the coil and the flywheel. Got a piece in my shed for just that purpose.
Right on
Will watch latter when at work mate.. hope you and the family are well
Right on Mick! Have a great night...
Nice job Steve. I always thought you were a "bright spark."
LOL! Thank You...
Tillers are so much fun! Mine runs but haven't quite figured out the right foward belt,and I'm too stubborn to take advice,but as long as I have something to bitch about I don't take it out on the old lady.What I'm trying to say is your videos are very helpful and I have to watch them because my friends always bring me their junk to fix and usually down a few while tearing crap apart.
I saw another comment that they thought you should be about due for a video , ditto that ! You're killing me I want to see this thing run C'mon !😆
Hopefully in 1 week!
998
First thing I did this spring with my old tiller. Worked great. Then clutch quit that's when I found your site and subscribed. Got clutch working but the screws on screen would not fit (too loose) found a couple of self tapping screws and back to tilling. Great Channel
Right on
Makes me ask the question can this work on a old Merc 9.8hp boat motor from the 70's or 80's (not sure what year my motor is) but the system is working for now but I have a pull start on it.
I came here looking for a conversion for my 1950 KE-4 Mercury rocket. I suppose if you can get a core to fit inside the concave shape of the flywheel. Being inside though I don't know how you would get it within .01 of an inch
@@agtjamesb007 something tells me it says it's a 7.5hp but it'd run circles around mine when it's running. Cool old boat motor and good luck with it.
@@fryreartechnology7611 yup! Thank you. If the laminate core fits the coil then you wouldn't have to do all that nonsense I said in my last comment. I'm gonna give it a shot!
I did this with an old Stihl 031av chainsaw back in 2005 (thanks Arborsite). Worked a treat!!!
This is cool I’ve looked for a video like this befor but couldn’t find a good one
Thank You...
I like Steve’s video. However, I found this one the other days before finding Steve’s.
ruclips.net/video/0Q_sBKJUGdw/видео.html
Thanks so much for your videos I decided to get rid of the points on the same engine and after doing this I got shocked by the spark and that made my day lol
@5:37 man that's awesome, so well lit, in focus and close-up. Please don't ever change! Would you do an electronical iginition swap on a Mac 10-10? I would love to actually be able to "see it".
Steve, you are a small engine wizard! I've got more work to do now. Cheers from Kentucky with some cold Rolling Rock tonight.
Rock on!
Back in the day (1980's) I'd convert my old Briggs engines to electronic ignition using an "Atom universal ignition module". They never lasted long for me, would fail every 3 or 4 years. I prefer doing as Steve did, using an OEM Briggs coil with the module built into it. They last much longer and run better. I'm sure that Steve has seen a few of those Atom modules in his days?
Thank you very much, got an old 5hp Briggs that stopped sparking after winter. Seeing how easy it is to upgrade, just ordered a new electronic coil. Goodbye points and condensers :)
Great to hear!
This is getting exciting, I can't wait for the next episode.
Coming soon!
RUclips's A.I. closed caption if on, does not give a correct number. 0.010" is the feeler blade you want to use. Good video. Hey, lighten up and try and have fun! Don't be so serious dude.
ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Awesome , greatest Easy to understands videos , Steve's small engine saloon , thank you !
Glad to help
I found an old Montgomery Ward tiller with exact engine. Gonna go try this right now! Thanks!!
Hey Steve, Great video but please make a note to do a video in the future for converting an old Tecumseh points and condenser engine (that has the magneto BEHIND the flywheel like an old H60 or H70) to an electronic ignition. I see plenty of videos for B&S engines but not for this old style of Tecumseh. I have asked DonyBoy and Taryl multiple times but I they only ever convert B&S engines, NOT Tecumseh conversions with the magneto BEHIND the flywheel for engines like an H60 or H70. Thanks. Also, do you ever try any Belgian beer??? Very good stuff the majority of it!!!
I rewatched your 10 worst video comments from 2 years ago when you'c turned 3 million views. I just noticed you're about to hit 4million views!
I think I was just thinking, "I haven't seen Steve Lately."
also, electronic ignition systems are pointless.
LOL! Right on Kenny...
Now that's funny. This comment coincides well with a video of Steve and Bucking Billy Ray fixing an old McCulloch generator. At 51:27 we catch Steve in a baldface lie. "....I'm camera shy, but go ahead." Steve, you are a treasure. I think your channel ought to be required viewing for small engine shop classes. God bless. ruclips.net/video/uI4l8Rw3TXg/видео.html
-facepalm- THANKS DAD !!
I know they're pointless. But right now it has points. I can't find a cross over number to replace my present coil
I did this same upgrade on a 1965 Barracuda I owned way back when. Tune ups were so much easier and cheaper once I made the swap in the distributor. Unfortunately some yahoo ran a stop sign and T-boned me, and that was the end of my beautiful red 'Cuda. Still ran great though even after the wreck.
thanks for the video Steve, for the gap I get myself a 12 pack of coors light and use the package for setting the gap and then when the engine starts I drink the beer to celebrate
That business card cap is basically perfection. I wished I had that only channel. Good day sir :)
Thank you kindly!
can you tell me how to tell a Electronic Ignition coil from a reguler coil and were dose the one wire go to 'thanks this is for my rototiller 5 hp bridggs
The wires leading under rhe flywheel would generally be to a set of points on old machines but don't confuse that on machines with charging stators
I’ve been following your channel for a while now and I just wanted to say thank you cos your content has really helped me out a lot doing my own repairs at home even though I have no experience working with engines.
So thank you very much Steve for all your content it’s always helpful and easy to follow,your my go to guy on RUclips for engine repairs and you never let me dawn so thanks again really appreciate the time you take to do these videos ✌️❤️
Happy to help!
That business card trick is something an old mentore showed me when I was just a kid, mey he rest in peace, it works fantastic! I've since started useing the Oregon external ignition module and that works mint Aswell! I just did one yesterday on a super 250 mcculloch! I should have filmed it as it worked out great! The saws running but has a leaky Gas tank seal, maybe I'll do a video after all 🤔 lol
Hey Steve Justin here from California, been subscribed to the channel for a while now. Great video thanks for the information I picked up a 1956 Sears Roebuck reel mower with a Briggs & Stratton on it that I'm doing up. The things was surprisingly clean inside despite sitting for years with no oil fill cap and open carb.
Very informative thanks for the hack!! Keep the videos coming brother! Much thanks
Awesome, thank you!
Great video, Steve! Thanks again. A down-to-earth approach is always the best way to explain things. Appreciate telling me what happens, as well, if you install the coil backwards. If you hadn't mentioned that, I would have been left with that question. I like it when people cover all the bases, including what happens if you do it wrong. :)
I was always wondering if you're from the East Coast originally, as I'm from Newfoundland, and I always think you seem to have an east coast accent, for some reason. I have a friend from NB who seems to have the same accent as yours. But perhaps I'm mistaken.
I think for the first time I understand about upgrading from breaker points to an Electronic Ignition system. The breaker and points operate on a cam under the flywheel to supply the collapse of the magnetic field built up in the coil, while the electronic ignition has a circuit (either transistor controlled or capacitive discharge controlled) built right into the coil pack. I guess this one would be a TCI unit, wouldn't it? CDI seems like it requires a separate box....
Thanks for providing good sound information to us...I have a problem that requires a little more information...I have a welding machine driven by a 12hp tecumseh, the magneto is bad so I'm thinking I need to upgrade to a electronic ignition....need help....
Steve, I recently acquired a Mac 325 with points is it possible to do this on it
Este es El mejor canal de small engine thanks Steve
Great Video Steve ain't seen one of yours for AGES!
Thanks from London England 👍💪😎
Thanks 👍
points and cond have stood the test of time my 1953 m37 dodge (over 70 yrs ) still runnng do not need electronic .
Thanks again,Steve! Easy conversation that's more maintenance free.
You bet!
Awesome......watching now....I'll respond at the end. Excited! Thanks for this
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Cheers! I broke one off years ago....I drilled it out lol, and 3hrs later I had another bolt in. Pain in the backside!
Sandpaper point was very very important!
Thanks for that Steve.
Pabst Blue Ribbon cheers🍻🍺🍻
Ps...I've seen folks machines with a 1/16" gap and they wondered why it either didn't fire, or was very sluggish.
I love your videos Steve! I agree with you, those old points and condenser were pretty weathered. Best to all :)
Thanks 👍
Seems to me, about ‘90, I bought a small module at K mart that eliminated the points. It didn’t require a coil change, and was around $6.00.
Worked fine. That mower is long gone.
Steve, do you think it would be possible to grind the ignition to make it have the same radius if it’s off a little bit?
Yes.
Thank you Steve. I may do this on an old wheel horse lawn tractor.
Good luck!
Well I just learned a valuable trick and I have 2 old tillers like this. One is shot and has a good coil. Other has a bad points coil. I cant wait to try swapping it over! You're a beauty Steve!
Good luck!
@Steve's Small Engine Saloon it worked! Full bright spark. Swapped coil. Clipped wires and she sparks! You sir are a legend!
Hi Steve. I enjoy watching your videos sooooo much. Every time I see one I learn something new. You explain things so well. Hope you keep doing what you are doing. Again thanks so much.
So nice of you
You did it the best way .Cost more to buy a electronic Module with a kit and you still have to cut the wires and use Electrical liquid Tape on it. more time and more money .Transistor Module is easy to install but seem easy to blow them apart if you try to Jump Start the Engine.
Garry not Linda. Jump start a lawn mower engine??
Only way to go! Thanks stevo!!
Hey bud can this be done to the mid 70 single piston kohler found on ford lgt tractor's?
Briggs and Stratton 3hp from 63 on old toro reel mower. Used a modern coil from a 1350 snow series. No more points on coil starts and runs grest
You have a great way of explaining how things work! Keep making videos!
Thank you! Will do!
Taryl had an interesting demonstration on a Kohler? engine. If the coil was installed properly (this side out) the coil wouldn't work. Flip the coil around so the cylinder side was out, it ran. It appears that some engines have the north and south poles swapped. Flilpping the coil meant you didn't have to have the magnet recharged with opposite polarity.
I am surprised that works. On the old chainsaws that I work on that method does not work. We would have to replace the flywheel also because it is timed differently for points vs electronic ignition.
You dont have too replace the fly wheel they have moduels that you spice in on the two cycle engine that does away with the points
WOW. I knew it was that simple but anything I work on usually is broken in the first place... so I've never gotten the chance to try this out. Awesome job, thanks for the information!
You're Welcome...
Thanks Steve! Nice upgrade...and you made it look easy to do!
It was!
Love your videos. Have learned great deal from you.
Question: My Briggs powered chipper shredder would not fire.
Spark tester showed no spark.
You showed me where the main jet is at the bottom of the fuel bowl.
Installed a new coil, new plug, flushed the tank, flushed the carb.
Filled with fresh 89 ethanol free gas WITH STABIL added.
Pulled the cord and the machine ran.
Next day, used machine for an hour, no problem.
TWO days later, it will not fire.
Plan on flushing it out all over again.
WHY are briggs engines so blasted sensitive to humidity?
If all ignition coils are not created equal, what is the best brand of coil to buy?
Thank you for your videos and your expertise.
Hey Steve! Are you a believer of using any oil additives? If so what do you use??
An ounce or two of lucas oil stabilizer will help protect the cam and bearings. The splash systems in these engines are decent enough, but the high temperatures coupled with extended idle time can be detrimental to friction surfaces. Straight 30 weight detergent oil either synthetic or regular with the lucas added is my routine. Don't forget to monitor both the level and the hours run, oil changes are both simple and cheap for small engines. I do one at beginning of season of use, and one mid season of use. My Craftsman lt1000 is 20 years old, looks and runs like new.
@@markk3652 Thank you for your input Mark! I will try using some Lucas and see how it goes. Last year I started using Mobil 1 5w-30 synthetic in one of my push mowers that I don’t care much about just to see if it would start burning oil. I worked it hard and I changed the oil twice during the year and I haven’t seen the oil level go down or any smoke puff out with a cold start. I’m surprised! I heard Amsoil makes a specific small engine 10w-30 oil and I think I am gonna test it out this year for myself on another lawn mower. On the Amsoil website it says not to use additives because it already has specific additives for small engines. I have watched some videos of people talking very highly of it. Maybe you can give it a try too! It is kind of spendy but I like trying new things especially if it protects my engines
Another believer from England, just done this on a 1980's Briggs 5hp but your videos do explain very well and you have given me several good pointers!. You need to check out some Czech beer, it where Pilsner comes from!
Right on
This is so cool thanks Steve always learn something new from you videos cheers for Ireland 🇮🇪👌
My pleasure!
Thank you Steve, I just purchased a brand new one and I am not getting spark....maybe have it on backwards....
Thank you for the great video Steve! I hope you are well
Thanks, you too!
I used the same method for gapping the coil, but used the box that the spark plug came in. Unfortunately, I didint have one of your business cards handy :(
Another great vid Steve. Nice one.
Thanks for sharing
This is just so cool!! Keep em coming Steve and thank you!!
Thanks! Will do!
InFREAKINgenious! Briggs Flatty’s have standed the rest of time so it makes sense of what you did and how easy it was to do! 🤙🏻🇺🇸🦅🔧
So maybe it was good that that condenser was bad. I don't have to worry about points or nothing. The big upgrade!
Never knew this was possible only on older cars!! Thank you Steve
Videos like this are golden. Well done from Rome Ga USA
Thank You...
Me, I like my points on my old engines, a lot simpler to fix, as long as the coil itself doesn't go bad.
Fair enough!
counterpoint: my dad's old weed eater never needed the ignition fixed after he had it upgraded to pointless ignition.
@@StevesSmallEngineSaloon I do have plenty of new engines too, to admit, I have converted a couple over to electronic ignition,
The ones that bug me is when the points underneath the flywheel, I'm lucky that in the climate I'm in, even though it does it get humid in the summer, in Wisconsin, somehow I still don't end up with corroded points.
@@kenbrown2808 I have three of the same model of lower end, leaf blowers, that I got from someone
All have extremely weak coils, and I've seen some pretty bad coils run an engine pretty decently, like yellow bad spark.
@@turtmastert3545 point is, before he put the pointless ignition on it, he was getting the points fixed every season. after - no more problems with the ignition.
Loved the video Thank you
I am replacing a older twin cyl 20hp briggs with a new twin cyl 20hp briggs and the wiring harness is not the same on the engine.. any ideas would be appreciated.. Mechanical I am pretty good at wiring not so much Thank You
Installed one of these units.
Engine would not start.
Turned out unit was on backwards timing was off.
Reversed it motor runs perfect now.
Right on
Right on Steve, thickness of a plastic credit card is perfect for ignition coil gaping !