I did my 2010 f150 today. The main difference was the cv shaft went directly into the differential so I didn’t have to take it out. Also, didn’t have to remove the strut from the lower control arm. Instead, I removed the top ball joint pulling the knuckle away then muscling the shaft out o the bearing with the actuator. I tried to remove the lower strut bolt first but it wouldn’t come out. Four hours later and it drives like new. There was a rattling noise that sounded like the catalytic converter but it was the actuator. No more noise on passenger side, now I have to change the driver side!
easier to remove center bolt and tire as shown then just remove upper control arm and tierod end remove 3 bolts from actuator pull cv axel and hub out together, place hub on cv put cv back in and bolt everything back together
well presented video, but my 2012 CV shaft doesn't have bolts on a flange like this one. it has a spline with a spring clip that slips into the gear box. This requires a little more disassembly for me..
Lower strut bolt must remain loose until weight of truck is back on suspension before torque is set to prevent rubber bushing from tearing during normal suspension cycling.
I just replaced the front wheel bearing hub assemblies on my 2007 navigator but the wheel still has some slop at the hub area. Can this be due to a worn actuator? Thank you.
After install I cant spin the driver side wheel that i worked on in 4x4. Spins in 2x4. Truck is on a jack with only the wheel I'm working on lifted. Is this normal.
I bought used 2010 all the vacuum lines for iwe are missing bought new lines just need to know where on the passenger side the two ends plug into help please sos lol
Was wondering if there are torque specs on the 6 bolts on the axle flange, the strut bolt, and the actuators 3 bolts, as well as the axle nut? I read a comment the stated the axle torque needs to be no more than 20, any info would be good thanks to all.
+2layz2p Thanks for watching! In the 4x4 set up the axle nut will only be 20 ft lb, the axle flange bolts will be 60 ft lb, and the lower strut bolt will be about 351 ft lb with a new bolt. We do not have the specs for the actuator, but that will not have to be very tight. You can also refer to a repair manual to find any specs you might be missing! 1aauto.com
+@audycamaro3649 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Buddy not there? use a punch in the rotor slots to hold the axle from turning while removing the cv shaft bolts that most fords this year don't have. In fact what year is this one? my 2011 is way different, cv shaft, strut mounting etc.
+Adam Fackler We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have a question bout my 2011 f150 4x4 STX I did struts and I disconnected the drive axle from the actuators do they need to be reset ? I did not remove the actuators from the spindles just driveaxles.
This guy got the job done by doing it the hard way. Yet only thing that would make sense in his time wasted taking all that shit off is as it looked like a brand new CV axle was replaced with no explanation as to why. Video was for the POS IWE vacuum Hub system
+Jim Dailey Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/auto-locking-hub-actuator/i/1afwa00017?RUclips&CTA+Comment&MnNMvzOrKA
+Joe Bowers The part shown in the video does fit your application. It should be the same or a similar procedure. Here is a link to them on our website. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/auto-locking-hub-actuator/i/1afwa00017?RUclips&CTA+Comment&MnNMvzOrKA
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I did my 2010 f150 today. The main difference was the cv shaft went directly into the differential so I didn’t have to take it out. Also, didn’t have to remove the strut from the lower control arm. Instead, I removed the top ball joint pulling the knuckle away then muscling the shaft out o the bearing with the actuator. I tried to remove the lower strut bolt first but it wouldn’t come out. Four hours later and it drives like new. There was a rattling noise that sounded like the catalytic converter but it was the actuator. No more noise on passenger side, now I have to change the driver side!
easier to remove center bolt and tire as shown then just remove upper control arm and tierod end remove 3 bolts from actuator pull cv axel and hub out together, place hub on cv put cv back in and bolt everything back together
Very well done demonstration.
well presented video, but my 2012 CV shaft doesn't have bolts on a flange like this one. it has a spline with a spring clip that slips into the gear box. This requires a little more disassembly for me..
Lower strut bolt must remain loose until weight of truck is back on suspension before torque is set to prevent rubber bushing from tearing during normal suspension cycling.
be careful with the 13mm nut on the end of the axel! Torque spec is only 20lbs! I discovered this after twisting the threaded end right off!!
Do you actually need to remove the cv to do this? Or can you just disconnect it at the wheel?
this is an excellent video ty so much.
So the actuators from trq comes with enough grease so you don’t have to put any in there while installing it
I just replaced the front wheel bearing hub assemblies on my 2007 navigator but the wheel still has some slop at the hub area. Can this be due to a worn actuator? Thank you.
Do you need to grease the acuator hub before installing it?
Are you supposed to grease the teeth on the actuator? I greased mine and I think it's causing difficulty for actuator to engage and disengage..
Is the driver side a passenger side the same part???
Look very easy this way
+@audycamaro3649 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I did it without messing with the struts. Disconnect the 2 steering parts
Thanks men
Yes I am not sure if I need an actuator or if I need a wheel bearing a clatter a little bit
After install I cant spin the driver side wheel that i worked on in 4x4. Spins in 2x4. Truck is on a jack with only the wheel I'm working on lifted. Is this normal.
Yes, sounds completely normal
Wonder if some jb weld around the rubber boot would re seal the hub. It fails bc of broken seal. might re seal it.
+Thomas Harp Thanks for the tip!
I am getting a intermittent grinding noise in 2WD, but it goes away when putting it back in 4WD. Is that a symptom of a faulty actuator?
Yes, just happened to mine. Sounds like a can of loose screws rattling.
Where would you go to get your actuator replaced?
+Ajahnae Hinley We recommend bringing it to a local mechanic!
bery good looks easy to do thanks a lot
+beneno 8888 Thank you for checking us out. Keep us in mind in the future if you need parts. 1aauto.com
I bought used 2010 all the vacuum lines for iwe are missing bought new lines just need to know where on the passenger side the two ends plug into help please sos lol
nice work 👍🏻
+Fernando Gausin Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com
Was wondering if there are torque specs on the 6 bolts on the axle flange, the strut bolt, and the actuators 3 bolts, as well as the axle nut? I read a comment the stated the axle torque needs to be no more than 20, any info would be good thanks to all.
+2layz2p Thanks for watching! In the 4x4 set up the axle nut will only be 20 ft lb, the axle flange bolts will be 60 ft lb, and the lower strut bolt will be about 351 ft lb with a new bolt. We do not have the specs for the actuator, but that will not have to be very tight. You can also refer to a repair manual to find any specs you might be missing! 1aauto.com
When i put my 4×4 in my f150 5.4 2005 i thing the driver side only engage halfway and make big bammm noise ....that is possibly guys?
+@audycamaro3649 We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Could this actuator cause popping noise
Buddy not there? use a punch in the rotor slots to hold the axle from turning while removing the cv shaft bolts that most fords this year don't have. In fact what year is this one? my 2011 is way different, cv shaft, strut mounting etc.
Where are the torque specs for all these bolts?
Will the same same process work for a 2011 XLT with a manual 4WD transfer case?
+Adam Fackler We don't have a how-to video for your vehicle right now, but the basic steps in this video should be enough to do this task. Buy this part for your vehicle on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I hate to break it to ya but the lug nuts on a 2004 Ford F-150 are 21 MM not 19 MM
+Matt Sayers Thanks for the feedback! This vehicle had both available depending on the options from the factory. 1aauto.com
1A Auto Parts oh okay then that would make sense. I have a 04 Ford F-150 fx4 crew cab and the lug nuts on that are 21 MM
what do you figure the average shop time would be per hub replacement?
I have a question bout my 2011 f150 4x4 STX I did struts and I disconnected the drive axle from the actuators do they need to be reset ? I did not remove the actuators from the spindles just driveaxles.
+Robert Rowlin Thanks for watching! You do not need to reset anything in your case, just like in the video! 1aauto.com
how do you know if they are going bad????
Very common you say. I've never replaced mine. 2007 f150.
I've worked on 3 F150's with this system and they all had bad actuators.
any suggestions if you don't have an assistant to hold down the brakes?
+Randy Phelps You may be able to keep the axle from moving with a breaker bar.
Announce free beer, you'll make all sorts of friends that will help out
Is that part got 2 sets of teeth or 1?
This guy got the job done by doing it the hard way. Yet only thing that would make sense in his time wasted taking all that shit off is as it looked like a brand new CV axle was replaced with no explanation as to why. Video was for the POS IWE vacuum Hub system
Do you have to realign after doing this?
+bryanbatton01 You shouldn't need one as long as you do not disturb the tie rods or control arm. Hope this helps you out.
Is there both of them one on each side the front or just one
Good job
+Jim Dailey Thanks for watching. If any of our viewers needs to make this repair, we carry the auto repair part shown in this video on our website. Here is a link to them www.1aauto.com/auto-locking-hub-actuator/i/1afwa00017?RUclips&CTA+Comment&MnNMvzOrKA
Why is 2014 not included in this?
+Joe Bowers The part shown in the video does fit your application. It should be the same or a similar procedure. Here is a link to them on our website. Hope this helps you out. www.1aauto.com/auto-locking-hub-actuator/i/1afwa00017?RUclips&CTA+Comment&MnNMvzOrKA
How close is this to 2010?
10 - 4 = 6…. According to my calculations here, they’re 6 years apart. 🤓
It’s also the same procedure..
Mj
Do I need to remove the shock to do this