Just finished the install. This video was the perfect step by step. I did end up snapping my pcv hose (you're right. Crazy brittle), so I'll have to go in and replace it. Did the install an hour from home so it's duct taped until the part comes in. Recommendations that aren't in S&S diesel's instructions or explicitly noted in this video: You need a T style T25 wrench for the FCA. You're not going to be able to fit a socket or even a bit driver. Same idea for installing the block off plate. Get a step ladder or one of the platforms that mount to your plow attachments. Your back and knees will appreciate it. Thanks again to everyone over at Thoroughbred Diesel. This video was a God send!!
Exactly how a how to video should be. All too many "this is how you install" vids don't show the step by step as you have done or they get in the way of their own demos blocking critical views. Great job on this one.
Had a diesel shop in Folsom, CA install this kit for me. THEY MESSED UP!! I TOLD THEM TO WATCH YOUR VIDEO BUT THEY OBVIOUSLY DID NOT. Somehow they twisted the semi-rigid fuel return hose to the tank and left it in a severely restricted condition. About a hundred miles later I received a warning that my number 3 injector was “not learning to 100%”, but it was running fine. After resetting it again, I attempted to return to SD. It popped again coming down the grade into Reno. Standard Diesel in Minden, NV had done some work on my truck before and I had a high degree of confidence in them. They re-set it again and the #3 went off again when coasting to a stop? They started their diagnostics believing the injector was not the cause. When testing, the number 4 injector popped the same code as the previous number 3 injector faults. They asked me what work I had done in recent history and then they discovered the restricted return at the bypass. Fixed that and I’m in Wyoming now with no problems. They could have sold me an 8 injector replacement job and I wouldn’t have been the wiser, instead a couple hundred bucks and I was on my way home. 217,000 miles on my injectors, rail and CP4 and counting…
@@thoroughbreddiesel ,… just wanted others to know that return fuel hose can’t be restricted, and if it is and those codes pop, they can address the problem. I’m looking into replacing that return fuel line because it is almost but not 100%. It’s costly. Others out there,… if you are taking your truck to a shop to have this bypass kit installed, make sure they know what they are doing and preferably have done it before. Don’t go to the Folsom CA Diesel.
I used this video to do mine myself. I'm mechanically inclined but usually don't tackle something like this. This video is awesome. Mine is a 2015. I didn't have to grind down the intake manifold luckily. Job took me about 5 hours to complete. Be careful not to drop anything. The quarter inch drive and swivel was the ticket. I'd recommend having the screwdriver 1/4" drive also to help things once the bolts are loose. There were a few things that he makes look easier than they are. Those things took a little extra time.
I just completed this install. The video is very helpful. I have only one critique of the kit itself. The mounting of the filter seems like it was an afterthought. The aluminum mount has to be turned to keep the filter from hitting the brake booster plug on the side of the tank. Also, only one little bolt holding the entire filter and mount doesn't seem very substantial for a rough riding truck. All that being said, I have bought both the S&S kit and the SPE kit. I decided to install the S&S instead of the SPE. A real filter seems better than a little screen. Thank you for the informative video.
I watched this no less than 15 times before setting out to get this done. After 5 hours of adjusting my weight around the engine bay and wishing I had one of those sweet chair things it was all installed. Living in Vermont and the truck being a 2011 I opted to not attempt the removal of the fuel filter holder due to the bolts being a little rusty. I was still able to get the upper intake off by rotating it counter clockwise up and out and same for install. Otherwise I followed all the steps. Thanks so much for taking the time to put this video together!
Got mine done. This video helped! Just paranoid I hooked it up wrong. Truck runs good been driven over 1,000 miles no problems! I’m pretty sure it’s hooked up right haha!
I have watched this about 6 times, is there any cutting of any of the fuel lines when hooking them up? By far an outstanding video for the back yard mechanics like me. Shows step by step and I feel confident that I can do it. Thanks
All of the lines are precut and ready for installation. If you are going to modify the hoses make sure that you use equivalent fuel pressure rated connections. Thanks for watching!
2 questions... 1. How prevalent is the cp4 failure? Actual numbers. 2. Is it possible to get the repairs covered by any class action lawsuits? Excellent instructional btw.
Thank you. We have seen trucks with as low as 20K miles on them with full failures, and we have seen trucks with 500K miles on the original CP4 pump on the truck. Prevalent really is overshadowed by the severity of the failure.
actual numbers is about a 7% failure rate in the US. But I believe it Failed more in the Duramax then it does on the super dutys, because for runs the low pressure lift pump, and the duramax did not run a lift pump. Bad fuel will cause premature wear and tear. I run Hotshot diesel solution on every fill up pretty religious about it, i change fuel filters every oil change and have yet to see an issue. Changing the fuel filters incorrectly can cause damage as well if you dont prime the truck before trying to restart. This kit is an added layer of protection for more piece of mind, i will be adding in the future, you just never know.
Awesome video you guys really did great job explaining and showing how to do it . Granted I can’t fix it myself because of my arthritis very had too been my wrist but anyway I’m glad to see how it was done . Just subscribed to your channel and thanks. Bish
Thanks for this video. Clarified a bunch of steps not in the instructions. My late build 2016 F350 differs from your example truck, which initially confused me. Wish I'd have removed the EGR cooler; would have given much more room for the bolts of the upper manifold. I had just removed the CCV filter housing prior to tackling the S&S DPK, so lots of access on that side.
Seems like the 2 lines for the return fuel filter are a tad long? Could they be cut down some to reduce all the extra line? Very nice simple to follow video.
Ok but the pump still delivering fuel straight to the injectors, i still dont see where the fuel is being filtered before going to the injectors, when the pump fail that debri get push quick to the injectors then goes to the return line then it get filter. Not really sure if this works
Its being filtered after it leaves the pump on the return side. Filtering the fuel that has been exposed to the metal from the pump eating away at itself. The incoming fuel is being diverted away from the “belly” of the pump where the failure happens and the FCA receives clean filtered fuel from the primary filtration, that hasn’t been in the pump at the site of the failure, where the metal shavings are produced. Also, the fuel in the tank is clean because of the return filtration.
Add a lift pump. I had 250,000 on my LML with no problems before I traded it. I think the new Ford comes with a separate lift pump also now. I used an air dog 165. Works great.
GREAT Video! I watched this and am going to order the kit for my '14. A question, since I am having to remove the FCA; would you also consider replacing it with a new one, since you are already there? And will this work with the H&S Fuel Filter Conversion Kit?
They will only fit on one side or the other, but what side of the base I guess is relative to where you are facing, and how you view orientation. Most mechanics view orientation as position if you are facing the rear of the truck as to what is left or right.
Do you guys notice a vibration or noise from the fuel input line going to the new s&s filter housing? Is that normal? Lines aren’t bent or pinched, maybe just a lot of fuel pressure? Thanks
I just bought an s&s dpk from thoroughbred and am expecting it in a few days. I was wondering how much more work it would be from this point to replace the turbo in my 2011 as it is the first gen 6.7 with the failure prone turbo. Edit: fantastic instruction in this video by the way.
Really wish the S&S 2.0 and 2.1 kit were available when I did mine 2 years ago. The newer kits look a lot easier to install. I am still going to retrofit the 2.1 filter kit to my gen 1 kit. Extra added layer of protection. Just be careful when putting your metering valve back in the block off plate. If you pinch/crack/break that black o-ring when you put the metering valve back into the block off adapter, you will get one heck of a fuel leak in the turbo valley. And chances are you won't catch it until it is all back together which means you have to tear it all back apart and fix. Ask me how I know.
Thank you for the video. The 2017's are different than the 16 and earlier in that we have to use the included hose as the fuel filter has 3 fuel attachment instead of 2 hoses.
Before reinstallation, what's your recommendation of replacing the CP4 with a DCR replacement pump? Also replace the CCV system or eliminate? I have 210k on my 2011 f250. I do not want to buy another truck.
If you already have the bypass, it isnt needed with the DCR. So if you are here and you don’t have a bypass, we suggest looking at a DCR for sure. With CCV, we recommend changing the filter at suggested intervals.
My 2012 return line that gets rotated upwards it not able to move. Nothing in the directions about this. If I hook the line up it is kinked bad. What to do?
*Update* I grabbed the metal line close to the connector with channel locks. Grabbed the connector with my other hand and got really aggressive. After it moved it was easier to adjust to where it needed to be. I contacted S&S and they said some can be really stubborn.
So the blue clip for the return line from the CP4 broke on me (about 48:30 in your video). How do I get the connector off now and do you sell a repalcement?
So I guess I’m confused?? So the fuel that comes out of the s&s filter goes back to the tank… then goes through two more filters and then ends up at the pump which then goes into the injectors… so if the fuel is just going to go through two filters already… all you’re accomplishing is adding another filter to the system? If the CP4 were to fail couldn’t it still send metal into the injectors?
On the supply side, fuel is filtered through the two stock filters. The S&S filter is a return fuel filter and its design is to keep the metal debris that are generated in a pump failure from making it to the tank.
Please help me I have the Spe disaster kit on my 2016 i bought the S&S kit from y’all how do I go about swapping the Spe out to theS&S kit thanks so much for all the help you can give me y’all are a great company I have a 2016 ford f 250 6.7
I don’t have experience with the SPE kit, but this should be straight forward and you can install as if it is a stock truck, so long as the SPE kit doesn’t modify the lines.
S&S does not make that guarantee explicitly, and the reason for that is that the condition of the fuel system PRIOR to installation of the DPK has everything to do with the length of time before you possibly can have a fuel system failure. S&S back their product with 100% and the results speak for themselves. Metal from a catastrophic failure cannot make it to your high side components post CP4, however they cant save a component that already has had exposure to metal.
Hi Wade ,I have recently installed the CP4 bypass kit from S&S and it works fine but i have a buzzing sound in the Cab compartment is this normal ,Thanks Phil
Hi ,thanks for your reply I've checked over it and i think the buzzing is the sound from the Fuel pump and is been amplified through the truck body ..@@thoroughbreddiesel
How many man hours are required for a professional installer who has done this before on a 2011 f250 6.7 liter? I am having your kit installed and would like to be an informed consumer.
@@thoroughbreddiesel … a diesel shop in Folsom, CA charged me 4 hours plus marked up the S&S kit 50%. They hadn’t done one before and I suggested they view your video before they started. After the install that is when the horror story began. See the comment I posted so others can learn.
I think at 4:00 mark that 11 to 19 years will not have to heat and cut out that plastic pipe. Do you have to heat old pipe and install new pipe with clap? Or is this all plug and play? Doing this kit Saturday on my 19. Great video
Installed and now I hear a humming sound at idle, it seems to go away if I bring the rpms up. I only hear the sound in the cab, can't hear it in the engine bay. 🤷
What do you charge to install the kit I have a 2014 Ford 6.7 are you In KY? If I was 10 years younger I would do it myself. Do you have the gaskets and clips if they break?
Just had one installed,and at idle there is a noise sounds like a rubbing sound and you can feel a pulse in the whole unit. And that all disappeared when you accelerate,is that normal
I don't have a pulsing sound, but more like the sound of fluid being pushed through the hoses / filter at high pressure. I can hear it in the cab while at idle. Hopefully this is normal.
Just put my kit in. The improp thing looked good and clear truck was running great before install. After I got everything put back together after a few fuel pump cycles the truck ran for about 30 seconds and shut off. Any ideas why this happened?
@@TonightWeGrill Yes, unfortunately I did not catch it in time. When I brought it to the shop they found metal all throughout the fuel system and told me my cp4 and injectors were shot. 10k later everything running great now.
It should be. Surprised a lawsuit hasn’t challenged this. I’m sure these manufacturers love the fact that when it fails you have to purchase thousands of dollars of OEM parts to replace it. Money in the bank for them. Criminal
Because expected engine failure is job security. So many manufacturers design "timed" systems with weak points ao we are forced to buy new cars. When the electric Era kicks off they can literally just turn your car off. In 15 years, electric cars will be a monthly paid subscription just to move it. It's all about money. The US has to find new sources of revenue because Saudi is no longer going to be dealing in the American dollar. So it's pretty much about to become useless.
Hit the back of the CP4 lightly. We have seen some pumps get a contaminant in the valve and wont let it build head pressure. Try that while you are cranking the truck and it should start.
Really? We're at cp4 and got stuff like this happening? I've got a cp1 with almost 300k and it seen some abuse in the last few thousands where I increased rail pressure and injectors duration. Now I let it back to stock and still going strong.
A filter can only hold so much debris once full of metals it will compress bypass spring and full flow unfiltered fuel and ruin systems i just use a good Lubricant at truck purchase marvel mystery oil or power services additives or both every second tank i do remove DEF systems farm tractors and my trucks .. no issues with inspections i dont live in communist California etc ... with this kit void warranty?
If the filter becomes full of CP4 debris the truck most definitely will not be running, unless you change cp4’s without changing the filter. Additives are always a good thing but will not stop the design flaws of the CP4. This kit by design will not harm the fuel injection system in anyway. But it is not a OE part so technically a dealership could flag your warranty for any aftermarket item. In that case you have to fight back, check out the Magnuson Moss Act. This protects you from having your warranty revoked without proof that the aftermarket product caused the failure.
It's all good for now boys if you spend all that money on upgrades on that loaned truck ;) but God bless you.... stress so badly on the way to work enjoy it while it last it gives no warning . Every mile is a blessing 🙏
Not going to help you now, but anyone who reads this. For '17 plus, there is a long bolt, spacer and nylon lock nut to go in place of the plastic clip.
🔥 Want a S&S Diesel Motorsport Gen2.1 CP4.2 Bypass Kit? Order One Today!
www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/cp4-67f-bp-g21/
Just finished the install. This video was the perfect step by step. I did end up snapping my pcv hose (you're right. Crazy brittle), so I'll have to go in and replace it. Did the install an hour from home so it's duct taped until the part comes in.
Recommendations that aren't in S&S diesel's instructions or explicitly noted in this video:
You need a T style T25 wrench for the FCA. You're not going to be able to fit a socket or even a bit driver. Same idea for installing the block off plate.
Get a step ladder or one of the platforms that mount to your plow attachments. Your back and knees will appreciate it.
Thanks again to everyone over at Thoroughbred Diesel. This video was a God send!!
You're welcome! Glad to help!
Exactly how a how to video should be. All too many "this is how you install" vids don't show the step by step as you have done or they get in the way of their own demos blocking critical views. Great job on this one.
Thank you!
Had a diesel shop in Folsom, CA install this kit for me. THEY MESSED UP!! I TOLD THEM TO WATCH YOUR VIDEO BUT THEY OBVIOUSLY DID NOT. Somehow they twisted the semi-rigid fuel return hose to the tank and left it in a severely restricted condition. About a hundred miles later I received a warning that my number 3 injector was “not learning to 100%”, but it was running fine. After resetting it again, I attempted to return to SD. It popped again coming down the grade into Reno. Standard Diesel in Minden, NV had done some work on my truck before and I had a high degree of confidence in them. They re-set it again and the #3 went off again when coasting to a stop? They started their diagnostics believing the injector was not the cause. When testing, the number 4 injector popped the same code as the previous number 3 injector faults. They asked me what work I had done in recent history and then they discovered the restricted return at the bypass. Fixed that and I’m in Wyoming now with no problems. They could have sold me an 8 injector replacement job and I wouldn’t have been the wiser, instead a couple hundred bucks and I was on my way home. 217,000 miles on my injectors, rail and CP4 and counting…
So very sorry to hear this!
@@thoroughbreddiesel ,… just wanted others to know that return fuel hose can’t be restricted, and if it is and those codes pop, they can address the problem. I’m looking into replacing that return fuel line because it is almost but not 100%. It’s costly. Others out there,… if you are taking your truck to a shop to have this bypass kit installed, make sure they know what they are doing and preferably have done it before. Don’t go to the Folsom CA Diesel.
I used this video to do mine myself. I'm mechanically inclined but usually don't tackle something like this. This video is awesome. Mine is a 2015. I didn't have to grind down the intake manifold luckily. Job took me about 5 hours to complete. Be careful not to drop anything. The quarter inch drive and swivel was the ticket. I'd recommend having the screwdriver 1/4" drive also to help things once the bolts are loose. There were a few things that he makes look easier than they are. Those things took a little extra time.
Thanks for sharing and happy you got er done!
Best video since Diesel Ron. Thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Installed the kit last weekend. Thanks for making the install video.
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
How long did it take you?
I just completed this install. The video is very helpful. I have only one critique of the kit itself. The mounting of the filter seems like it was an afterthought. The aluminum mount has to be turned to keep the filter from hitting the brake booster plug on the side of the tank. Also, only one little bolt holding the entire filter and mount doesn't seem very substantial for a rough riding truck. All that being said, I have bought both the S&S kit and the SPE kit. I decided to install the S&S instead of the SPE. A real filter seems better than a little screen. Thank you for the informative video.
You're welcome.
I watched this no less than 15 times before setting out to get this done. After 5 hours of adjusting my weight around the engine bay and wishing I had one of those sweet chair things it was all installed. Living in Vermont and the truck being a 2011 I opted to not attempt the removal of the fuel filter holder due to the bolts being a little rusty. I was still able to get the upper intake off by rotating it counter clockwise up and out and same for install. Otherwise I followed all the steps.
Thanks so much for taking the time to put this video together!
Glad to help!
Thanks. just received this from you all. This will help a bunch.
You're welcome! Great to hear!
Phenomenal video about to do mine and this video is gold love the indepth step by step...making it too easy bud!!
Thanks and glad you like it!
Just installed on my 2015 following this video step by step
Glad it helped!
Just bought my first 6.7 power a stroke, how much does this usually cost to have this system installed in my truck?
Got mine done. This video helped! Just paranoid I hooked it up wrong. Truck runs good been driven over 1,000 miles no problems! I’m pretty sure it’s hooked up right haha!
Great to hear!
Excellent informative video, thanks for taking the time to do this.
Glad it was helpful!
I have watched this about 6 times, is there any cutting of any of the fuel lines when hooking them up? By far an outstanding video for the back yard mechanics like me. Shows step by step and I feel confident that I can do it. Thanks
All of the lines are precut and ready for installation. If you are going to modify the hoses make sure that you use equivalent fuel pressure rated connections. Thanks for watching!
2 questions... 1. How prevalent is the cp4 failure? Actual numbers. 2. Is it possible to get the repairs covered by any class action lawsuits? Excellent instructional btw.
Thank you. We have seen trucks with as low as 20K miles on them with full failures, and we have seen trucks with 500K miles on the original CP4 pump on the truck. Prevalent really is overshadowed by the severity of the failure.
actual numbers is about a 7% failure rate in the US. But I believe it Failed more in the Duramax then it does on the super dutys, because for runs the low pressure lift pump, and the duramax did not run a lift pump. Bad fuel will cause premature wear and tear. I run Hotshot diesel solution on every fill up pretty religious about it, i change fuel filters every oil change and have yet to see an issue. Changing the fuel filters incorrectly can cause damage as well if you dont prime the truck before trying to restart. This kit is an added layer of protection for more piece of mind, i will be adding in the future, you just never know.
Awesome video you guys really did great job explaining and showing how to do it . Granted I can’t fix it myself because of my arthritis very had too been my wrist but anyway I’m glad to see how it was done . Just subscribed to your channel and thanks. Bish
Thank you and welcome!
Had to jack up on the body mounts to get the upper intake out because my body mount bushings are bad.
Great detailed video. Many thanks
Thanks and you're welcome!
Thanks for this video. Clarified a bunch of steps not in the instructions. My late build 2016 F350 differs from your example truck, which initially confused me. Wish I'd have removed the EGR cooler; would have given much more room for the bolts of the upper manifold. I had just removed the CCV filter housing prior to tackling the S&S DPK, so lots of access on that side.
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
When are you going to make video on how to change the spark plugs on that Ford diesel ?
Seems like the 2 lines for the return fuel filter are a tad long? Could they be cut down some to reduce all the extra line? Very nice simple to follow video.
Thank you. The lines are crimped but if you would like to shorten them you could just would need to be re crimped.
Better information than the print out
Thanks.
Ok but the pump still delivering fuel straight to the injectors, i still dont see where the fuel is being filtered before going to the injectors, when the pump fail that debri get push quick to the injectors then goes to the return line then it get filter.
Not really sure if this works
Its being filtered after it leaves the pump on the return side. Filtering the fuel that has been exposed to the metal from the pump eating away at itself. The incoming fuel is being diverted away from the “belly” of the pump where the failure happens and the FCA receives clean filtered fuel from the primary filtration, that hasn’t been in the pump at the site of the failure, where the metal shavings are produced. Also, the fuel in the tank is clean because of the return filtration.
Amazing video, installing this kit from s+s on my 2013 6.7 next week when it comes in
Thanks!
S&S please make this for the LML duramax. Put a bug in thier ear thoroughbred diesel.
Add a lift pump. I had 250,000 on my LML with no problems before I traded it. I think the new Ford comes with a separate lift pump also now. I used an air dog 165. Works great.
Did you clean the lower intake out when you had it off? I didn’t bother with mine
No I didn’t but in hindsight it would have been a good idea.
Would it be a good idea to replace anything else, while you have all of these parts off? - Like the Serpentine Belt?
Serpentine belt is always good, we suggest fuel filters too obviously. No other wear parts there.
Excellent video, thanks for taking the time to do this.
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed it!
GREAT Video! I watched this and am going to order the kit for my '14. A question, since I am having to remove the FCA; would you also consider replacing it with a new one, since you are already there? And will this work with the H&S Fuel Filter Conversion Kit?
The elbow you turn upright connects to the left side of the filter base? 2013 6.7
They will only fit on one side or the other, but what side of the base I guess is relative to where you are facing, and how you view orientation. Most mechanics view orientation as position if you are facing the rear of the truck as to what is left or right.
I take for granted that the additional fuel filter that comes with the kit gets changed at every standard fuel filter change?
My 17 has 3 ports at the filter..What do you do with that 3rd port?? I have 55k miles on mine and I'm going to install your kit..
Nothing needed to be done with the 3rd port I regards to this kit.
Will this affect a truck that’s fully deleted and tuned?
Will you need any new gaskets for installation?
The gaskets can be reused but if you prefer to change the intake gaskets we owe them.
Does the S&S Filter need to be changed at the same interval as the other two fuel filters?
It’s a relatively cheap filter, we suggest changing when you change the fuel filters.
Why did the fuel filter housing get removed? I didn't remove the filter or anything. Intake came right out.
I find it easier to get the intake out by removing it.
Do you guys notice a vibration or noise from the fuel input line going to the new s&s filter housing? Is that normal? Lines aren’t bent or pinched, maybe just a lot of fuel pressure? Thanks
There is quite a bit of supply pressure on the low side lines so vibration is normal.
I just bought an s&s dpk from thoroughbred and am expecting it in a few days. I was wondering how much more work it would be from this point to replace the turbo in my 2011 as it is the first gen 6.7 with the failure prone turbo.
Edit: fantastic instruction in this video by the way.
Give us a call if you get stuck!
Really wish the S&S 2.0 and 2.1 kit were available when I did mine 2 years ago. The newer kits look a lot easier to install. I am still going to retrofit the 2.1 filter kit to my gen 1 kit. Extra added layer of protection. Just be careful when putting your metering valve back in the block off plate. If you pinch/crack/break that black o-ring when you put the metering valve back into the block off adapter, you will get one heck of a fuel leak in the turbo valley. And chances are you won't catch it until it is all back together which means you have to tear it all back apart and fix. Ask me how I know.
Thanks for the info. Glad it worked out.
Thank you for the video. The 2017's are different than the 16 and earlier in that we have to use the included hose as the fuel filter has 3 fuel attachment instead of 2 hoses.
You're welcome and thank you!
Before reinstallation, what's your recommendation of replacing the CP4 with a DCR replacement pump? Also replace the CCV system or eliminate? I have 210k on my 2011 f250. I do not want to buy another truck.
If you already have the bypass, it isnt needed with the DCR. So if you are here and you don’t have a bypass, we suggest looking at a DCR for sure. With CCV, we recommend changing the filter at suggested intervals.
Is there a better filter than the Donaldson as far as micron ratings go?
I have asked that question too and Donaldson is the clear winner with the testing that S&S has done.
Are you re using all the old gaskets in a 250,000 mile truck?
We didn’t replace them here at request of the customer because of a recent repair that was made, but yes, we advise changing them.
I like the under hood light and would like to have one, where did you get that?
How many miles were on the truck i have 197,000 on my 2011 and it's starting to act up
Now's a good time to install this kit.
How ofter do we have to change that bypass kit filtee
I would suggest changing at every fuel filter change. Low dollar filter and good practice to get ahead of a complete failure.
What is the difference for 17-19 can’t find a video anywhere??
This video covers for that model year. If you need the video for the 20+ trucks, it can be found here: ruclips.net/video/xSC6nlFLGm8/видео.html
My 2012 return line that gets rotated upwards it not able to move. Nothing in the directions about this. If I hook the line up it is kinked bad. What to do?
Apply a little gentle heat to the line and see if you can get it freed up. If not, you made need to replace.
*Update* I grabbed the metal line close to the connector with channel locks. Grabbed the connector with my other hand and got really aggressive. After it moved it was easier to adjust to where it needed to be. I contacted S&S and they said some can be really stubborn.
I didn’t hear in the video about how often does the filter need to be replaced or how many miles?
It’s a low cost filter so we change on every 3rd oil change.
Where can you find the replacement filters? Just bought a kit for my 15 f 250. @@thoroughbreddiesel
That ground cable was making me nuts till I realized why it was loose 😂
lol
So the blue clip for the return line from the CP4 broke on me (about 48:30 in your video). How do I get the connector off now and do you sell a repalcement?
I think if you use fuel line disconnects you can get it. I think we can get you something, call us at 866-737-4966.
I just did mine today and same clip broke. was able to get the clip open wid a pick.l, dealer near me had the clip in stock so downtime was minimal
At this point would it be a good decision to go ahead and replace the (FCA) ? you're in there ya know .
It would be a consideration yes.
So I guess I’m confused?? So the fuel that comes out of the s&s filter goes back to the tank… then goes through two more filters and then ends up at the pump which then goes into the injectors… so if the fuel is just going to go through two filters already… all you’re accomplishing is adding another filter to the system? If the CP4 were to fail couldn’t it still send metal into the injectors?
On the supply side, fuel is filtered through the two stock filters. The S&S filter is a return fuel filter and its design is to keep the metal debris that are generated in a pump failure from making it to the tank.
Please help me I have the Spe disaster kit on my 2016 i bought the S&S kit from y’all how do I go about swapping the Spe out to theS&S kit thanks so much for all the help you can give me y’all are a great company I have a 2016 ford f 250 6.7
I don’t have experience with the SPE kit, but this should be straight forward and you can install as if it is a stock truck, so long as the SPE kit doesn’t modify the lines.
does s&s gauarantee that there bypass kit will save your whole fuel system if a cp4 fails ?
S&S does not make that guarantee explicitly, and the reason for that is that the condition of the fuel system PRIOR to installation of the DPK has everything to do with the length of time before you possibly can have a fuel system failure. S&S back their product with 100% and the results speak for themselves. Metal from a catastrophic failure cannot make it to your high side components post CP4, however they cant save a component that already has had exposure to metal.
Hi Wade ,I have recently installed the CP4 bypass kit from S&S and it works fine but i have a buzzing sound in the Cab compartment is this normal ,Thanks Phil
I am not familiar with that. Do you think there could be something vibrating in the engine compartment?
Hi ,thanks for your reply I've checked over it and i think the buzzing is the sound from the Fuel pump and is been amplified through the truck body ..@@thoroughbreddiesel
Had the same thing on my 17 ,it was the transmission stick tube vibrating .
Great Video. I live in Ca will this cause any emissions problems? I have a 2016 Super Duty.
Thanks! This is CARB compliant with EO # D-756-6
Does this affect California emissions? Thanks for video
It does not.
Would have been a excellent opportunity to get the PUSHER intake
Okay what would a shop charge to install this including the kit?
You would have to call a local mechanic.
How many man hours are required for a professional installer who has done this before on a 2011 f250 6.7 liter? I am having your kit installed and would like to be an informed consumer.
About 2.5 hours.
@@thoroughbreddiesel … a diesel shop in Folsom, CA charged me 4 hours plus marked up the S&S kit 50%. They hadn’t done one before and I suggested they view your video before they started. After the install that is when the horror story began. See the comment I posted so others can learn.
They make it for a 2023 F350?
You would want the kit for the 2020 and up trucks. Give us a call 866-507-2099.
At what point should this kit be installed? What effect does it have on the factory warranty? Im at 50k miles on a 2017. Thanks
Now. We haven’t heard of any warranties being voided for these kits
Can yall use my 15 6.7 and install the bypass too 😅😅
I think at 4:00 mark that 11 to 19 years will not have to heat and cut out that plastic pipe. Do you have to heat old pipe and install new pipe with clap? Or is this all plug and play? Doing this kit Saturday on my 19. Great video
Thank you, yes on the earlier years the pcv pipe can be removed without cutting. Just be very careful as they get pretty brittle.
My electrical connector still touches mt lower intake a little after shaving it, will it be ok?
I hated doing it as a whole, but if you can get some more relief in the intake I would suggest it. Needs to clear.
Installed and now I hear a humming sound at idle, it seems to go away if I bring the rpms up. I only hear the sound in the cab, can't hear it in the engine bay. 🤷
We haven’t heard of this. A couple of things, go over your install again, and if you have any questions just give us a call.
What do you charge to install the kit I have a 2014 Ford 6.7 are you In KY? If I was 10 years younger I would do it myself. Do you have the gaskets and clips if they break?
Gaskets and clips if they break? For the PCV? Give us a call if you need something 866 737 4966
How much does it run for labor to have a shop install it?
You'll have to contact your local mechanic.
Just had one installed,and at idle there is a noise sounds like a rubbing sound and you can feel a pulse in the whole unit. And that all disappeared when you accelerate,is that normal
The pulse is normal but the rubbing sound is not. Go back through your install.
I don't have a pulsing sound, but more like the sound of fluid being pushed through the hoses / filter at high pressure. I can hear it in the cab while at idle. Hopefully this is normal.
What is the average time to install the CP4 bypass?
Took me about 5 hrs
Will this mess with emissions here in California?
This is CARB compliant with EO # D-756-6
Why not just put the CP3 kit on it and be done with it ?
No CP3 kit for the 6.7 Powerstrokes yet.
excellent video i just did my f350 2011 thanks for the help
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Why can’t you guys ship to California?
Just put my kit in. The improp thing looked good and clear truck was running great before install. After I got everything put back together after a few fuel pump cycles the truck ran for about 30 seconds and shut off. Any ideas why this happened?
Did you ever figure that out!?
@@TonightWeGrill Yes, unfortunately I did not catch it in time. When I brought it to the shop they found metal all throughout the fuel system and told me my cp4 and injectors were shot. 10k later everything running great now.
@@ryanrizzo7399 That’s crazy! Was the truck acting up at all before you installed the kit?
@@TonightWeGrill Nope was doing fine before install
My question is, why is this not already on from the factory??? It’s a no brainer..
We agree!
It should be. Surprised a lawsuit hasn’t challenged this. I’m sure these manufacturers love the fact that when it fails you have to purchase thousands of dollars of OEM parts to replace it. Money in the bank for them. Criminal
Or just a better style pump that we don’t have to worry about exploding at any point it wants
Ford won’t make more money off of you if they did that
Because expected engine failure is job security. So many manufacturers design "timed" systems with weak points ao we are forced to buy new cars. When the electric Era kicks off they can literally just turn your car off. In 15 years, electric cars will be a monthly paid subscription just to move it. It's all about money. The US has to find new sources of revenue because Saudi is no longer going to be dealing in the American dollar. So it's pretty much about to become useless.
cannot get to start have primed numerous times
Hit the back of the CP4 lightly. We have seen some pumps get a contaminant in the valve and wont let it build head pressure. Try that while you are cranking the truck and it should start.
With the high mileage and the work removing to gain access to the CP4, wouldn't it be worth it to replace the whole pump at that point?
Not a bad idea, still a lot to do to get the pump off the truck at that point.
Don’t they make a kit to go to a cp3 ?
No. The CP3 won't work on these. The have a DCR conversion kit.
why not duramax
There are options for the LML trucks though Give us a call to discuss! 859-737-4966
What if your running a duel pump set up
Will not affect this.
clean that area before removing that piece, you dont want anything to fall in there
Really? We're at cp4 and got stuff like this happening? I've got a cp1 with almost 300k and it seen some abuse in the last few thousands where I increased rail pressure and injectors duration. Now I let it back to stock and still going strong.
what is a CP1???
@@justinfannon8159 high pressure common rail pump. Cp1 is the 1st edition
Sure glad I have a 05 Dodge that engine bay is a mess !
On my 2019, do I have to remove the windshield cowl? Doesn’t seem like there is enough room to get the upper intake manifold off?
Not to remove the upper intake, but it is very tight getting it out.
Duramax??????
Ford only. There are options for the LML trucks though Give us a call to discuss! 859-737-4966
A filter can only hold so much debris once full of metals it will compress bypass spring and full flow unfiltered fuel and ruin systems i just use a good
Lubricant at truck purchase marvel mystery oil or power services additives or both every second tank i do remove DEF systems farm tractors and my trucks .. no issues with inspections i dont live in communist California etc ... with this kit void warranty?
If the filter becomes full of CP4 debris the truck most definitely will not be running, unless you change cp4’s without changing the filter. Additives are always a good thing but will not stop the design flaws of the CP4. This kit by design will not harm the fuel injection system in anyway. But it is not a OE part so technically a dealership could flag your warranty for any aftermarket item. In that case you have to fight back, check out the Magnuson Moss Act. This protects you from having your warranty revoked without proof that the aftermarket product caused the failure.
Good grief look at all that stuff on the top of that motor that’s crazy !!
It's all good for now boys if you spend all that money on upgrades on that loaned truck ;) but God bless you.... stress so badly on the way to work enjoy it while it last it gives no warning . Every mile is a blessing 🙏
My 2019 has 3 lines to the filter and the ground strap is not where this one is. Ended up using the 2020 method I guess.
Not going to help you now, but anyone who reads this. For '17 plus, there is a long bolt, spacer and nylon lock nut to go in place of the plastic clip.
Did you have to remove your windshield cowl to remove the intake manifold
@@LandanL no but you do have to loosen it to get the bracket bolt under it.
What do you recommend for interval for the filter p550943 . miles/ hours
The FS19856 is rated at 7 micron.