Use 2 pickle forks(ball joint)between bearing and pulley .180 degrees apart. Tap them equally will wedge off pulley. Keep blower tilted towers floor so bolts won't fall out. Either put elastic around bolt or I rings to hold them in place.
Loosen the locknuts, pull up on the bolts, and then wrap the bolts tight with two twists of safety wire. It will hold them by the threads while you finish your work and then you can just untwist it once you have the nuts back on a few threads.
Mecanically solution is not acceptable. Maybe for less noise is good idea but for "frotement" metal on the metal is not god idea. I think that TORO CHANGED MECANICAL IDEA W/NORMAL BEARING. The tiny washer before pulley instalation for what reason is it over there? After finished installation the pulley moves from back a lot. It is normal?
With the puller grabbing the lips of the pulley and actually managing to yank the thing, you can be sure that a pair of crowbars under the center of the pulley would pop it off too. With the crowbars there’s no risk of destroying the pulley.
WHEN THE Mecanic PUT THE NEW BEARING IN HIS 2 x METAL "ROOM" I think he made a mistake. The complet bearing must be put in 2x metal "room" and not separately. I ASK MECANIC IF THE BEARING MUST BE GREASSED INSIDE DIAMETER COPPER W/CONTACT W/THE SHAFT 7/8" DIAMETER?. The bearing has one screw. This screw in allen head must be tight after installing the bearing on the shaft in right position? The big pulley must go down to max. possible in assembly action or flush w/shaft finish side? What role is the tinny, tinny washer after installing the bearing and before installing the big pulley? What is the square head dimension for the 2x screw big puley?
The hex head is to locate the bearing in the metal housing so it doesn’t rotate and the thin washer is just a wear/thrust washer so the pulley is not directly touching the bearing. A little grease here will also help. The square bolts may be 1/4 I didn’t have the proper socket for it. They are great blowers I service about 5 different brands for where I work probably 70 blowers in total and the toro give very little trouble.
I didn't understand what is inside of the bearing/bushing w/copper, how is working together w/drive axle? The hole of the bearing/bushing will be ovale after a time because missing the grease. The bearing w/role is the best. The bushing w/copper is using continu itself and in same time the drive axle. This is not acceptable, the drive axle must stay to the original dimension in diametre. The bushing copper is not correct solution for this application. When the bushing inside copper is finished the bushing frame iron will continu to distroy the drive axle. The bushing copper is all the time dry, no any grease, etc. A lot of heat is acumulate during rotation. Bad mecanical solution.
A bearing would have been better but the bushing lasts quite a long while, its usually 5 years or so before its an issue, even with our wet east coast snow,
Aha. I just picked up an 826 LE with this problem. I have most of it apart but just needed to know the bushing removal sequence. Where did you get the replacement parts from?
THANK YOU Bernie for making the effort and taking the time to make this video! Just found your video after a short Google search... my Toro Power Max 826 looks like it's pretty much the same as your unit. I blew 3 sets of Impeller shear pins in 2 days... after letting it sit overnight in the garage before replacing the shear pins again... had a good look (now that the snow was all melted + gone). I could see all kinds of scraping from the impeller on the lower casing... aHa! grabbed the impeller and could wiggle it at least ½" back and forth... blown bearing.... should have checked this earlier !..... I have all the tools for this except the pulley puller.... Do you think that I might get away with trying to pry that pulley off.??.. I could buy a pulley puller but after this job I'd likely never use it again... (unless I have to do this job again). Although that would be a cheaper option than paying to have it done ! I know you made this video over a year ago... I hope you see this comment... Thanks again for your video (from another Canadian (Ontario)).
It should come off without a puller, if it’s all let go, try placing a couple of pieces of wood under the pulley alongside the bearing and drive out the centre shaft with hammer and punch. Should come off. If body is tipped up make sure the augers are not touching the floor stopping it from moving.
Remove the set screws. Then wedge two long crowbars under the center of the pulley at opposite sides. Then you can hold one crowbar in each hand and kinda hump the two of them up and down until the pulley releases. Some penetrating oil and a light heating with a propane torch can also give you a big advantage. The pulley puller can risk damaging the lips of the pulley and cause you to constantly ruin belts. It also helps to have a buddy smack around the inner perimeter of the pulley with a rubber mallet while you are humping the crowbars.
That's a pretty new machine to have the impeller bearing go out so soon. My 35+ year old 624 Toro blower has the original impeller bushing in it yet and it still good and tight, no slop yet! I see so many other brand use a seal ball bearing in them, but if my Toro bushing lasted 35+ years, they must know what they're doing.
Toro is a great machine. I have put quite a number of bearings in them. Could be the wet Newfoundland snow. Other than a belt once and a while cutting edge and skids they never give any trouble.
Thanks so much for this video! Just finished changing the bearing on my Toro 726. Those bolts on the bearing sleeve were the first to drop. Had to pull out the auger like you did to get them back in place. At least it made it easier to change the shear pins. Haha Thanks again!
Loosen the locknuts, pull up on the bolts, and then wrap the bolts tight with two twists of safety wire. It will hold them by the threads while you finish your work and then you can just untwist it once you have the nuts back on a few threads.
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Use 2 pickle forks(ball joint)between bearing and pulley .180 degrees apart. Tap them equally will wedge off pulley. Keep blower tilted towers floor so bolts won't fall out. Either put elastic around bolt or I rings to hold them in place.
Yup. Should work good
Loosen the locknuts, pull up on the bolts, and then wrap the bolts tight with two twists of safety wire. It will hold them by the threads while you finish your work and then you can just untwist it once you have the nuts back on a few threads.
Yes ,it should work just fine
Mecanically solution is not acceptable. Maybe for less noise is good idea but for "frotement" metal on the metal is not god idea. I think that TORO CHANGED MECANICAL IDEA W/NORMAL BEARING. The tiny washer before pulley instalation for what reason is it over there? After finished installation the pulley moves from back a lot. It is normal?
It usually moves a little after installation
I couldn’t really see what you were doing you had a camera in the wrong place
With the puller grabbing the lips of the pulley and actually managing to yank the thing, you can be sure that a pair of crowbars under the center of the pulley would pop it off too. With the crowbars there’s no risk of destroying the pulley.
The pulley is pretty strong try to stay away from the outside edges. give the shaft a couple of hits with a hammer while prying with your bars.
WHEN THE Mecanic PUT THE NEW BEARING IN HIS 2 x METAL "ROOM" I think he made a mistake. The complet bearing must be put in 2x metal "room" and not separately. I ASK MECANIC IF THE BEARING MUST BE GREASSED INSIDE DIAMETER COPPER W/CONTACT W/THE SHAFT 7/8" DIAMETER?. The bearing has one screw. This screw in allen head must be tight after installing the bearing on the shaft in right position? The big pulley must go down to max. possible in assembly action or flush w/shaft finish side? What role is the tinny, tinny washer after installing the bearing and before installing the big pulley?
What is the square head dimension for the 2x screw big puley?
The hex head is to locate the bearing in the metal housing so it doesn’t rotate and the thin washer is just a wear/thrust washer so the pulley is not directly touching the bearing. A little grease here will also help. The square bolts may be 1/4 I didn’t have the proper socket for it. They are great blowers I service about 5 different brands for where I work probably 70 blowers in total and the toro give very little trouble.
I didn't understand what is inside of the bearing/bushing w/copper, how is working together w/drive axle? The hole of the bearing/bushing will be ovale after a time because missing the grease. The bearing w/role is the best. The bushing w/copper is using continu itself and in same time the drive axle. This is not acceptable, the drive axle must stay to the original dimension in diametre. The bushing copper is not correct solution for this application. When the bushing inside copper is finished the bushing frame iron will continu to distroy the drive axle. The bushing copper is all the time dry, no any grease, etc. A lot of heat is acumulate during rotation. Bad mecanical solution.
A bearing would have been better but the bushing lasts quite a long while, its usually 5 years or so before its an issue, even with our wet east coast snow,
Aha. I just picked up an 826 LE with this problem. I have most of it apart but just needed to know the bushing removal sequence. Where did you get the replacement parts from?
Picked them at the toro dealer, it is also available on Amazon
THANK YOU Bernie for making the effort and taking the time to make this video! Just found your video after a short Google search... my Toro Power Max 826 looks like it's pretty much the same as your unit. I blew 3 sets of Impeller shear pins in 2 days... after letting it sit overnight in the garage before replacing the shear pins again... had a good look (now that the snow was all melted + gone). I could see all kinds of scraping from the impeller on the lower casing... aHa! grabbed the impeller and could wiggle it at least ½" back and forth... blown bearing.... should have checked this earlier !.....
I have all the tools for this except the pulley puller.... Do you think that I might get away with trying to pry that pulley off.??.. I could buy a pulley puller but after this job I'd likely never use it again... (unless I have to do this job again). Although that would be a cheaper option than paying to have it done !
I know you made this video over a year ago... I hope you see this comment...
Thanks again for your video (from another Canadian (Ontario)).
It should come off without a puller, if it’s all let go, try placing a couple of pieces of wood under the pulley alongside the bearing and drive out the centre shaft with hammer and punch. Should come off. If body is tipped up make sure the augers are not touching the floor stopping it from moving.
Just make sure the bolts that holds the auger to the body are out so it will all come out.
@@weekendatbernies4503 That makes sense. Good tip / suggestion! Thank you for taking the time to get back to me. I'll give it a go.
Remove the set screws. Then wedge two long crowbars under the center of the pulley at opposite sides. Then you can hold one crowbar in each hand and kinda hump the two of them up and down until the pulley releases. Some penetrating oil and a light heating with a propane torch can also give you a big advantage. The pulley puller can risk damaging the lips of the pulley and cause you to constantly ruin belts. It also helps to have a buddy smack around the inner perimeter of the pulley with a rubber mallet while you are humping the crowbars.
That's a pretty new machine to have the impeller bearing go out so soon. My 35+ year old 624 Toro blower has the original impeller bushing in it yet and it still good and tight, no slop yet! I see so many other brand use a seal ball bearing in them, but if my Toro bushing lasted 35+ years, they must know what they're doing.
Toro is a great machine. I have put quite a number of bearings in them. Could be the wet Newfoundland snow. Other than a belt once and a while cutting edge and skids they never give any trouble.
Great video,very informative
Thanks so much for this video! Just finished changing the bearing on my Toro 726. Those bolts on the bearing sleeve were the first to drop. Had to pull out the auger like you did to get them back in place. At least it made it easier to change the shear pins. Haha Thanks again!
Your welcome, the toro snowblowers are great machines. Should throw snow like new after bearing replacement
Loosen the locknuts, pull up on the bolts, and then wrap the bolts tight with two twists of safety wire. It will hold them by the threads while you finish your work and then you can just untwist it once you have the nuts back on a few threads.
thank you thoroughly explained
Happy the video was helpful
Newfie? Was that the Avondale Speedway?
Yes it was at Avondale, sorry for the late reply
So far it’s our only drag track, there is talks of reopening stevenville but that’s on the other side of the island
Thought there was one somewhere around Clarenville? There used to be a track out in central between Botwood and Bishop’s Falls.
@@matthewburry4905 there is a circle track in bishop falls. Think it’s called Thunder valley speedway.