Acetone Battlewear Technique | Cerakote | Branson Cerakote
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- Опубликовано: 7 фев 2025
- In this video, John explains the Acetone Battlewear Technique.
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This is by far, my favorite RUclips channel
I really appreciate that!
Hey guys, just baked it for about 8 minutes then wiped with Acetone and it worked Friken awesome! What a great tip, no more using Scotch bright for me. You guys' Rock. Thank you
Glad it worked for you!
At what heats?
My stencils arrived last week. I love your videos. I can't wait until the weather warms up to a consistent warm temp. (I'll be painting in my backyard).
Sweet brother!
Your my new Hero. epic short cut!
Glad to help!
This has given me some inspiration! Okay Branson I see you!
Glad to help!
This looks great. I’m doing some tumblers that I’m donating to a charity fundraiser but I’m definitely going to try this technique on my first rifle. Thank you again sir.
Glad to help. It's a ,much easier way to battle wear. The only trick is keeping an eye on it, and yanking it out of the oven when it goes from wet to tacky.
That looks awesome. I’ve wanted to try that look with the titanium and black. I’m sure you’ve got a happy costumer.
Glad to help.
Thanks for taking the time to put all these videos out as well as answer questions! First time doing a multicolor. If you over harden your first layer will it cause your second layer to come off in flakes instead of being able to rub off when wiping down with acetone?
Yes. Tack is a temp and feel, not a temp and time. We tack everything at 180 degrees. The item will go from wet, to sticky, to dry (tack free), to hard. You want to get it out of the oven when it's tack free, but before it starts to get hard. We set timers to remind us to check the items, not to remove them. Poly will tack out in about half the time a barrel will. Practice will show you where your oven will tack different materials. It takes a little practice, but once you learn your oven, it stays pretty consistent.
Superb look!! Appreciate all of your videos and am using all the info I’ve seen in them.
Thanks for watching!
Now can I use this same technique with paint instead of cerakote and get the same results? With either acetone or paint thinner?
Acetone should work.
Do you cook each layer? Or just left them wet and put more coats over, acetone wipe it, then bake it?
We tack the base layer out. If you did wet on wet, you'd likely wipe down to bare metal.
Did I miss the time frames and heat after the first coat (red) and then the same after the second coat?
We always tack at 180. Tacking isn't a time, it's a feel. The item will go from wet, to sticky, to dry. You want to get it out once it's dry. Baking it too long after that point lets the coating start to harden, which will cause any follow on colors to fail. Final bake is at 250 for 2 hours.
Another great vid guys! My question is when you do the 2nd coat (black), do you adjust your air/volume at all? Thanks!
Air, no. The volume is different for every color.
I tried this method but it left little hairs and messed it up. Did I spray too thick on the black coat or not use enough acetone? I used the red shop rags so that may be the issue as well. I'm gonna try a thinner coat of black and a t-shirt today while also keeping the shirt soaked with acetone.
It was the rag. We found T-shirts work the best for not leaving lint. Don't soak it too much, it will completely strip the second layer off. Start out rubbing really lightly, and judge how much pressure from there.
How to you spray the inside of an AR handguard?
Dial the cone all the way closed, set your volume, tap the trigger to float the coating in.
Great video. Thanks! Quick question based on perspective, hopefully it won't sound dumb: is the idea to make the parts look like they were red with a little bit of wear showing the black; or is the idea to make it look like most of the black has worn off (highly worn) with ton of red showing through?
Depends on the customer. This one wanted it to be pretty well blended.
@@BransonCerakote thanks for the quick reply!
I’ve used the TBA stuff Cerakote sells to thin their stuff down. I like how this looks easier and cheaper! So you just tack free the top coat and wipe while warm or do you let it cool?
Either way. I've done it hot, and by the time I finished, it was cool. Doesn't seem to matter.
Hi, quick question. Why acetone and not lacquer thinners? I ask because I am going to attempt this with a local product called kalgard (same as cerekote but different :) )Kalgard one cleans up with thinners.
No clue. Cerakote says acetone, and we've never tried anything else. My only thought is that acetone is plastic safe, as long as you don't soak in it.
Thanks. I just did a test. After 5min at 180F the acetone will lift the kalgard similar to your video. Thinners just strips it right off😁
@@atunguyd Glad to help.
If there is a scrap after baking cerakote. Do you suggest trying to touch that scratch up somehow or completely redo the piece?
There's really not a touch up. You'll likely have to redo it.
@@BransonCerakote you ever have issues getting cerakote off? I sand blast with 80 grit aluminum oxide at 90 psi and I have issues getting it off. I even turned up the psi too.
@@BransonCerakote I found the issue with sand blaster. It was not picking up media :/
@@codymbink17 That will do it.
Was this H series cerekote you used? Also what temp did you flash the coatings at? Looks badass, but I'm sure you already knew that
It's H series. We tack items out at 180. Thanks for watching.
@@BransonCerakote thank you!
So tacking is how long in the oven and how hot?
180 degrees, but the time depends on the substrate. It's more of a feel than a time. The item will go from wet, to sticky, to dry. You want to take it out as close to the point where it is dry as possible, to keep from over hardening.
@@BransonCerakote okay thanks, reason why i ask is im going toncerakote all
My firearms and hopefully start a business doing it. Thank you for your informative videos. Aloha
@@briandy2094 Glad to help!
I've gotta give this a try. I've always done distressed with some scotchbrite. Thanks and keep up the great work!
Glad to help!
What color black did ya use?
After you wipe it top coat off with acetone do you put it back in to cure?
Yep. Final step is two hours at 250 degrees.
Branson Cerakote right on. Thank you for the fast reply
I’m sorry if this is a dumb question, will the acetone ruin the finish? I’m trying to take of some spray paint off.
No, I used paint thinner on my rifle today and the base coat is pretty tough.
@@jamaallewis3520 Yep, should be fine.
So the first thing need to do is To spray first your desired color like red, od , tan , green ? Then let it dry ? Then when it dry apply the black color ? Then let it dry again ? Then will rubbed it using A Cotton or a Shirt with acetone? Then will let it dry again? Am i right ?
Thats the order, however, it won't dry by itself. You do have to bake it.
@@BransonCerakote can i dry it in the sunight
@@doriehernandez864 Only if you use C series. We haven't sprayed C in a couple of years.
@@BransonCerakote i would like to use a camouflage spray paint od green and A camflauge Spray paint zero black is that will do? About 2-3min dry when direct sunlight will that works ?
@@doriehernandez864 You can rattle can with these stencils, however, I'd do some research with cure times etc. I have almost no experience with that technique.
your the man!!!!!!
My wife thinks so too! lol
Damn, I was looking for hillbilly bobs backyard paint job and this guy makes me feel like I'm already a 4th year spraypaint apprentice
Lol. Hopefully that's a good thing?!
What temp do you use for 2nd coat (c) and how long ?
Thank a lot
Once you've put the battle wear coat on, it goes in the oven at 300 for an hour. At that point, you're done and ready for it to be hard baked.
Branson Cerakote Oh . Sorry for my mistake I mean when finished black color then go to oven , what temp and how long ?
Because my problem is when spray the black then go oven . It very hard to distressed
Thanks
All ovens are different. For ours, we go about 5 minutes at 180. You are looking for the item to go from wet, to sticky, but not tack free. That in between zone allows you to rub it off with the acetone.
Branson Cerakote I will try and let you know thanks for great technique
@@patchayasorrananupap1899 You spray your base, and then tack it out (180 for 6-10 minutes. You want it dry completely) Let it cool, spray the black on. 180 for 4-5 minutes until it's sticky, but not dry. Bring it out, and rub it with acetone. Put it back in the oven at 300 for one hour.
are you guys from branson mo?
Yes, we are in the Branson area. Our shop is now located in Hollister, MO.
Have you had issues with rubbing thru the base color? I've done about a dozen using this technique but recently I've had issues with rubbing thru. The only thing that has changed is the Minnesota humidity. Any advice would be appreciated.
If you're rubbing all the way through, it's likely either a thin base coat, or the base coat not being tacked out all the way. Happens to us all.
I've been trying this technique but just cant seem to get the same results. On the poly parts, it worked perfectly. On the metal, not so much. Either when i go to spray the black over the base, it fish eyes something fierce of the 2nd coat chips or has jagged edges when i go to wipe it off. i think i may be leaving it too long but after eight to ten minutes of tack on the base coat its still wet when i pull it out, so i put it back in. I guess my real question is, will it still be a little wet to the touch with the right tack time and then dry as it cools off? Any help would be awesome. Thanks, Ricky.
There's a few things it could be. What ratio are you mixing at? What color is your base coat? What temp are you tacking at?
@@BransonCerakote the exact same set up as your video. Crimson Red base. Graphite Black over the top. 180 for tack temp and 8 minutes on poly. 10 on metal.
@@Ricky8088y16 Might either be contamination in your air or you aren't tacking quite long enough. If it's still on the wet side, it tends to create little balls.
@@BransonCerakote I thought about that too, but the base coat lays way too nicely and I have a huge $500 r134 air dryer. Do you have an email I can send you some pictures of what’s going on?
@@Ricky8088y16 info@bransoncerakote.com
Hey bro,
First off, thanks so much for all the dedication to simply help people, it’s not a trait we see a lot of anymore unfortunately.
I’ve purchased stencils etc from you in the past, and actually drove up to Branson to pick them up, and you allowed me to pick your brain and see the shop. Your videos have helped me cerakote from day one LOL! Anyhow, what’s your advice on blood splatter designs? I seen a few videos where people use toothbrushes to splat the paint, but I am yet to see or even read anything on using cerakote.
I was wondering:
1. Can I apply it to the weapon after the battleworn technique?
2. If I literally just finished my final baking, and wanted to do just some cosmetic blood splatter, do I need to redo “everything prep wise,” or can I just do a light splatter and bake in?
Anyhow, thanks again!
GOD Bless
Thanks for watching, and stopping by. We enjoy meeting people.
The toothbrush trick is about the easiest way I've used. I buy them three for a dollar at the dollar store, and just pitch them when I'm done. Just mix what you need (crimson works well for blood), and pour it into a lid or dish. Dip the brush in, and with a little wrist action, flick it on from about 3-4 feet away, depending on how mush of an effect you want.
Just apply it in whatever step is going to look best.
Normally, I'd say you have to start over. Cerakote generally doesn't stick very well to fully cured cerakote. However, if you are already done, there's not much risk in giving it a try. Worst case scenario, it doesn't stick, and you are no worse off than you are now.
Branson Cerakote thanks a lot! Last question, what’s your thoughts on how to apply say a small decal on an already cerakote cured lower? How do I prep without ruining the other areas cerakoted?
@@rarebreedmma I've never done it, but I'd just wipe down the area with acetone, let it dry, and apply.
Do you think it will work with Duracoat as well
It should, but I have zero experience with duracoat.
Hey branson! thanks for your video! Do you think i could use Thinner instead of Acetone? I live in Argentina, and its difficult to get Acetone.. but i was seeing Thinner(diluyent), maybe could work. Thanks!!
Anything that cuts oil and grease without leaving residue should work.
Do you use graphite black H-146?
Yep. That's the only black we use in our shop.
@@BransonCerakote
Thank you. I'm just getting started doing this at home and appreciate the quality content and tips you share.
@@jwojtoviets Glad to help. Let me know if you run into any problems.
Where do you get your acetone from?
We are in a small town, so the best place I've found is from Home Depot. They have 5 gallon cans at a decent price. If you live in a larger market, hit up the local chemical supply companies.
Awesome work🇺🇸✔do you need to blow air over parts after to wipe with acetone?..like you suggested qith scotch brite technique?...and thanks for all the advice you give all of us🇺🇸✔🙌
Nope. The scotch brite leaves fibers. The acetone doesn't.
Do you bake your metals and plastics at the same temp?
No. Metal is either 250 for two hours, or 300 for one hour, depending on the color. Poly should never go above 180.
@@BransonCerakote can you bake the metal at 180 for 3 hours with the poly? Is there a difference in hardness if you go with the higher temps?
@@Tuffydudee It won't be as hard. Another trick we use (not earth shattering) is to pop the poly in a NEW toaster oven. If all you have is a couple of pieces, it works great. Make sure it's never had food in it. A smoker would also work great.
I did this today, it's in the oven cooking for an hour.
I feel like I might have rubbed some of my base coat off with the acetone. Kinda hard to tell because my parts were raw to begin with and my bascoat is like a silver.
That's a tough one to tell. If you have an issue with that happening, put a light base coat of black on first.
That’s the most S&M shower curtain I’ve ever seen
LOL!
I also spray and wipe while wet.. that way you don’t have to do the tac and you can add and take the black off as you need.. you can use xylene too.. but be careful if you do.. it cuts right through quick..
Thanks for the tip!
So my new plan now is to make the base coat gold, then lay the predator stencils down and attempt the battle worn/distressed look with graphite black and burnt bronze. I hope it looks amazing like this does.
Lay the gold, air cure, tack out at 180. Let it cool. Find a piece of burlap, wrap or hold it against the project, spray a dark color through the burlap lightly in the areas you are going to lay stencils. Air cure, tack, cool. Stencil. Spray your all over color, air cure, tack, cool. Lightly spray a contrasting color in just a few areas to break ups the all over color (it ends up looking like a billboard with one color.) For example, if you used green as an all over color, try FDE. Think ATACS Camo looking. Air cure, tack, cool. Set the HVLP up to a closed cone and light volume, and use that to softly outline your stencil pieces. Air cure, tack, peel the stencils. Bake the poly at 180 for 2 hours. Remove. Run the oven up to 250, put the metal in and bake for 2 hours. Let it all cool, and you're done.
wanna know a cooler way to get your rifle to look worn? ware it out, re barrel it and do it again.
That works too, lol.
Lol yup
Do you cook each layer? Or just left them wet and put more coats over, acetone wipe it, then bake it?
We just tack out the base layer. if you sprayed wet on wet you'd likely wipe all the way to bare metal.