Can You Use Brake Cleaner to Clean Guns?
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- Опубликовано: 28 фев 2020
- This is something I've been curious about for a long time, so I decided to do it! I guess you can say I cleaned up any misconceptions with this video, am I right? Huh? Get it!? Okay.... Just like, comment, and subscribe please so I can stop making stupid jokes. Thanks.
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I've used non chlorinated brake cleaner and live in Palm Beach County, FL. I've never had anything rust but I don't let the brake cleaner sit on the parts for long. And you're right, I don't use it on certain materials but I spray all my polymer lowers and trigger assembly in both handguns and ARs and immediately followed up with clp to blast anything away
Oil the Beretta and 1911 BEFORE installing the grip panels. That is a common rust spot under the grip panels because it's often overlooked.
That's true. Normally I don't take the grips off of the 1911, but I do oil it when I do since quality of a Taurus is not the same as a Beretta. I probably did the same at one point with the Beretta, but oh well. Lol.
aluminum alloy does not rust
@@aslanbosnakoglu8240 Yeah right. Aluminum goes faster than steel under many conditions. Stainless 316 is far more corrosion resistant than aluminum and even that rusts eventually.
@@JohnMaxGriffin aluminum. Doesn’t. Rust. It anodizes. It protects itself.
IT DOES NOT RUST.
@@LinusScrubTips You’re spouting nonsense. There are many chemicals and physical exposures that will eat away the oxide layer and then the aluminum itself, which is highly reactive. Anodizing is a specific passivation process, not the general word for aluminum oxidizing. Where did I say it rusts anyway?
Shut up. You had me at "yes". Anything beyond this point is just fantastically more awesome. Thank you.
Thank you! That comment made my day!
Good video! I just picked up a very dirty handgun from a local gun store used, I don’t think the previous owner ever cleaned it. It’s a polymer frame Walther and like you I was worried it might hurt the plastic and polymer parts. I covered as much of the frame as possible with a plastic bag and just aimed the can at the internals (rails, trigger assembly, springs, etc. immediately followed up with a towel to wipe away the excess. No adverse effects. I can also confirm that even on plastic parts it leaves everything super dry and gritty feeling. Trigger felt like garbage so I followed up by spraying breakfree CLP on the entire thing again let it soak for a bit then wiped away the excess. Smooth as butter. It’s a good cleaner to have but exercise caution. Cleaned up carbon really well!
Glad it worked out for you! Thanks for watching. :)
I love copper or nickel grade anti-seize compound for trigger parts. You get plenty of lubrication that stays put but you also get the metal film from the solids that smooths parts.
@@DriveCarToBar that’s an idea I’ve never thought about. Might have to try that!
Excellent tutorial. Clear with well-advised caveats. Definitely worth watching until the end. Late to the party, but subbed. Look forward to more content from you.
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Awesome vid, i use brake cleaner soaked rag when fouling is really bad but seeing as how cleaner emits very strong fumes it will go into lungs and eyes so use it outside in well ventilated area.
Answered a question I've been thinking of all week. Thank you. I cleaned and AK with it before with no adverse effects, but I was wary on using it for anything else.
Glad I could help!
This is a great vid, as a law enforcement firearms instructor for 27 years, I taught brake cleaner to clean side arms. Finish the cleaning process with Mobil 1 0w-20 for a light coat and slide rail lube. Synthetic Mobil 1 is in wide use by the military. This lubricant doesn't break down and it's easy to clean. Please don't use 10w-40 on your firearms. WD-40 is a penetrating catalyst and will penetrate your primers and render the bullet and firearm useless.
I have also used GUNK Engine cleaner. I got a 1950s Browning A5 Shotgun as a gift. After disassembled, inside of the receiver was packed with very old, very dirty grease of some kind. I sprayed GUNK, rinsed it with hot water, then used a compressor to dry it out. Oiled it and it came out beautiful!
That's awesome! Keep it clean. ;)
Probaly cosmaline, ?
Great video keep up the good work. I always wondered if this was safe for my guns but never tried it. Thanks for risking your guns.
Thank you! It certainly was a risk, but they are still good!
Thanks for the video. I have been cleaning firearms with brake cleaner and WD 40 since 1977. Never had an issue related to either product. Some have told me that I'm just lucky, but 43 years with no issues goes way beyond just good luck.
I would think that after that amount of time, you would call is "proof," not luck. Lol. But what do people like us know, right? Keep on doing what you're going!
You are right with brake cleaner and then wipe dry then use WD 40 excellent choice. I will definitely use the same product and it works for me on my tools as well.
A few drops of synthetic automatic transmission fluid after the brake clean and it's good to go.
I would NOT recommend WD-40 unless you have no other option- and so long as it does NOT have a free-floating firing pin(those who have researched the SKS should know exactly why). WD-40 gums up over time and also does not have the same rust-inhibiting properties(it simply repels water) and wd-40 does not last long at all. If you want a good alternative to gun oil, either go for some synthetic motor oil or some Automatic Trans Fluid.
WD has water in it and will conduct electricity beacuse of.
I use Brake & Parts cleaner on all my rifles. Spray it on, including up the barrels, being careful not to get too much on polymer stocks, and none on timber stocks. Give it a little scrub with a small paintbrush or toothbrush, then wait for it to dry. I help it along with a little blower. Once that’s done, this stuff dries dry. Boresnake through the barrel a few times, then a mop to clean it all out. Once everything is all dry and clean, a good oil up, and you’re done. Gun care sprays are $30-40 a can, whereas the Brake & Parts Cleaner is $4-7 a can. Just be a bit careful, and take your time. Good video, by the way.
Nailed it, and thank you!
I’ve been using non chlorinated brake part cleaner since the 70s. I’ve always been careful getting it on wooden and polymer parts even though it’s supposed to be safe. I always clean my all metal guns first, without grips. Wear PPE both nitrile gloves and eye protection! I disassemble and place the plarts in a Walmart clear polymer shoebox storage box! After completely cleaning all parts I respray them with CLR and then wipe them clean. By the time I’ve finished the third handgun there’s enough brake cleaner overspray left in the shoe box to immerse the parts for the next few guns. Using a small brass or nylon brush and liquid I do just that scrub them clean. Now comes the polymer guns, remove slide with barrel and all springs and submerge in shoe box with brake cleaner, brush, dry and coat with CLR, Now take polymer frames and internal trigger mechanisms and spray with Polymer safe Birchwood Casey gun scrubber, brush out with clean brass brush and dry. Spray with CLR and wipe leaving a thin coating on all parts.
The most interesting fact is that the clear plastic or polymer shoe box which I bought in three packs from HD and Walmart now has about a half inch of the brake parts cleaner and a lot of dirt and carbon for hours and it’s just fine no distortion or softening of any kind. Sometimes I even put the top on it put it outdoors to use again later, so far so good. Be careful use only in a well ventilated area, it’s highly flammable! But it’s worked for years
Thank you for sharing your methods and tips!
This was a good video. I live in Arizona so it is a dry climate but I like with a swamp cooler so humidity is very present in my home.
Thank you! Keep 'em clean. :)
Brake clean shines cleaning guns packed with cosmoline.
As @DK-gy7ll learned, some solvents of this family of chemicals will remove the markings on some sights and safety indicators. I noticed your red dot on your safety survived. I find spraying an old toothbrush or patch gives more control as to where the aggressive solvent goes. Thank you for making this video!
Good tip, and you're welcome!
Coat plastics/rubber/polymer before spraying harsh chemicals, then reapply the rubber protection again.
As having auto detailing as a hoby, my first recommendation would be 303 Aerospace protectant/conditioner. Buy it by the gallon because you can use it on so many things, especially rubber/plastic outside the home.
Check your outside ac unit. Look at those plastic peices. Keep checking for more plastic & rubber that you don't notice that's just degrading in the sun.
Great on tires and dashboards too.
Thanks for the tips!
I have used this in WW2 surplus barrels that have fired surplus corrosive ammo, and it seemed to work fine.
Good to know!
This is a great vid, as a law enforcement firearms instructor for 27 years, I taught brake cleaner to clean side arms. Finish the cleaning process with Mobil 1 0w-20 for a light coat and slide rail lube. Synthetic Mobil 1 is in wide use by the military. This lubricant doesn't break down and it's easy to clean. Please don't use 10w-40 on your firearms. WD-40 is a penetrating catalyst and will penetrate your primers and render the bullet and firearm useless.
Thank you for the compliment on the video and the information!
@@ThatDeltaBravo the penetrant evaporates & the fish oil stays .I have a plastic bottle of BREAK FREE CLP the top of the bottle collects dust & it sticks to it same for the can of G96 gun treatment BUT WD 40 has no dust stuck on it on the same shelf. I like my semi autos clean & dry, no jams
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There would be no new world order if there were no oath Breakers
Awesome info! Thanks!
Geek
I loved your value swap technique! I'm subbing and liking!
Awesome! Thank you! What kind of content would you like to see?
@@ThatDeltaBravo I'm good with what you are doing. Your branding and content is good. If I think of anything, I'll put it on the next episode.
@@virgilreyes5028 Thank you! I'll keep doing what I'm doing then!
Just something to add, but brake cleaner will often melt away white sight dots and red safety indicators. It seems safe for polymer frames, but I learned the hard way that some clear plastic magazines are made from a different plastic and will melt.
Always best to keep it away from direct contact with plastic.
Watch out for the brake cleaner ingredients. I've seen some brands (mostly store brands) change their formulation at will. In one case, the brake cleaner which had been safe on polycarbonate caused softening and fogging some months later. It now had acetone, and listed it first (with no other label changes). If you take a "keep it off all plastics" attitude, you shouldn't have any problems. If in doubt (perhaps about certain coatings) don't use it.
Thanks for the tip!
I think the ingredient that causes problems to polymers is acetone. Any brand of brake cleaner should have an associated SDS sheet to show what chemicals they use
Thanks for the video I sure appreciate it, I could’ve used that back in the Marine Corps in the 1980s
No problem! Thanks for your service!
I am in my 23rd of LE. It was a Marine that told me about using brake cleaner years ago. Works like a charm!
Thank you both for your service!!
If you use most cleaning solvents, you have to wipe the metal surfaces with oil. I've used brake cleaner, paint solvent, etc for years. brake cleaner is great for cleaning shot gun barrels where we've shot lots of less lethal rounds at the range.
Birchwood Casey Gun Scrubber at one time even said it may damage plastics, rubber, etc. I have to believe that if it's blued, or parkerized steel, stainless steel or anodized aluminum it would be safe. Any polymer like a coating or paint, or any plastic part, just avoid that. I do anyway with any gun cleaner or oil. It's almost always the metal bits that are getting the dirtiest. Generally a dry clean cloth to clean plastic and rubber bits is sufficient.
Just test on a no conspicuous spot first. I used it an Arsenal Arms AK luckily I just sprayed the muzzle brake and it removed the finish. I use starting fluid (after normal cleaning) and it washes away even more carbon. And it has never damaged any of my firearms. Most of the automotive cleaners and starting fluids have gone way up in price, so I mostly use Balistol, then rinse with starting fluid.
Inflation sucks.
I use gun scrubber which is real similar to brake clean , honestly maybe the same thing , i only use gun scrubber when i have a pretty dirty gun but it definitly cleans well. I always coat a gun well afterwards with gun oil of some type for storage and whiipe the excess off before the range.
It's best to use products formulated for firearms.
I've used brake cleaner on my Glock 19 because I was out of gun scrubber and it worked fine I sprayed it all over never had any issues and I've had my Glock 19 since 2007 and it is my service weapon
Glad to hear!
I use a product from Castle called Shop Solv spray. Not because it cuts fouling but because it cuts the dried oils and grease that causes fouling and is safe for plastic. I get it from my work at a tractor dealership. You use what you have I guess.
I just looked it up, and it looks more expensive than Gun Scrubber! I'm a cheap SOB. :P
I've used it cleaning my slides and barrels for a while. Never had an issue with it
I'll be using it from now on too! :)
I used Carburator cleaner to clean up my rifle barrels. Result? They look great, shiny barrels.
Try out CERESIT CLEANER TS100
cleaner works great, for cleaning floam guns, it works very well.
I switched from brake cleaner to carb cleaner. Carb cleaner is generally safe on polymers although I wouldn't want to drop a Glock frame into a carb dip tank. Carb cleaner is specifically made to remove carbon fouling. But either way (brake or carb), they work and arguably just as well as any specialized gun cleaning product. Just have to remember to follow up with oil if you use either cleaner. Carb cleaners will often leave an oily residue but it's not sufficient to lubricate most guns. So just pick your favorite gun oil and follow the manual.
I haven’t done a deep cleaning like this in a while but that’s a good tip on the carb cleaner. I know brake cleaner leaves no residue. I used non chlorinated brake cleaner. Had a bit of overspray onto the polymer frame but didn’t hurt it. Just leaves things so squeaky dry that even plastic parts need to be oiled afterwards.
@@DIYDad1 and it's just as cheap as brake parts cleaner. A few bucks for a can is a deal compared to superwundertacticlean #11ty or whatever they want you to buy.
am always afraid to shoot anything like these sprays into the safety’s and trigger mechanism. it would be so much easier then taking the entire gun apart if it did as well?
This is an awesome video. I picked up an ar from a friend that was filthy and I needed some extra umph
Thanks! Glad I could help!
As a Vet, when the 1SG wasn't looking the armorer would have us use brake cleaner to clean our weapons. It does spit shine the weapon but must be lubed after
Thanks for your service!
I'll use it on the metal parts only. Cleaning off all residue and then using 3 in 1 oil (nothing fancy. Most other oils gum up if it sits for an extended time)
Great information from you and all commenters . Thx .
Thank you!
Got a mil-surp Chec handgun smothered in Cosmoline. BRAKEKLEEN worked great (cosmo so thick I had to soak the parts in it, it was EVERYWHERE).
The leather holster was brittle dry. Saturating it with mineral oil, repeatedly, brought it back to life. Still wiping it off firearm after removing it from.
Specialized gun products are overated (for sales). If engine oil can protect engines (250°+F) it's good enough for me. No problems thus far.
Well done , very useful, thanks!
Thank you!
I've been using Non-Chlorinated CRC Brakleen (the green cans on my Steel Challenge PPQ's for several years with zero problems. And yes, proper lube during reassembly is critical - and simple with OTIS dry lube.
Great to hear someone else uses it!
It is great for cleaning an AR BCG, but as you noted, oil everything well after it is done.
Oil is your friend!
I have had great luck with CRC break clean in the green cans no damage
An old timer i met at Walmart clued me in on using brake cleaner. I still consider myself a traditionalist when it comes to cleaning, but i will use brake cleaner on hard to reach spots like the firing pin and where it goes. Also inside the barrel. Very effective! But got to lube those areas after youre done. It really takes off everything.
Those old timers generally know what they're talking about. They tend to be fountains of knowledge.
I just use an all in one gun cleaning oil and for my surplus steel AK mags that I buy, or other surplus AK parts I buy that come heavily caked in cosmoline I use rem oil
Whatever works!
Hey! First time lurker here. I have good experience with dot3 brake fluid cleaning a rusty padlock, so I said 'why not with a gun?'. I looked for an expert first, and voilá, you appeared. Good vid, great explanation and too much make up.
Woo! Glad you liked the video! too much make up? I'm confused!
I have some rifles barrels that are very rusty, again can I use LOCTITE rust dissolver ? Nice tip on the brake cleaner.
I would go with the least aggressive method first: bore cleaner and 0000 steel wool.
@@ThatDeltaBravo Thanks and congratulations for your knowledge, very nice. Mike van Grieken
I was thinking of this. Thank you. Answered my question
Glad to hear it! That was my goal!
Great video and presentation! Liked and subbed!
Brake parts cleaner can be a number of common solvents. Some brands use n-alkanes (fancy name for jet fuel, kerosene, gasoline fractions) alcohols, and most commonly acetone. At $ 2 for 14 oz for the Walmart can is not bad for acetone. Check that O-ring in your AR extractor. Some rubbers are not compatible. Acetone is also a paint stripper and degreaser, so those painted dots on your slide could be gonners. Wear eye protection. Wear gloves. Use in a well ventilated area. Not really recommended to splatter on your optic's coatings either.
Or you can use better, cheaper parts cleaner/solvent from the same paint section at the hardware store. Its what the U.S. Armed Forces Field Manuals recommend to clean and degrease small arms: Mineral Spirits.
Thanks for the write-up!
I also have seen some gun owners use a super lube or grease a stick on purpose to the metal and stay on for a long time. Oil will not last as long as the grease or super lube.
RIG Universal Gun Grease is like modern day cosmoline in my opinion, so I always use that.
Non chlorinated is supposed to be safe on plastic and rubber but Lucas oil makes a contact cleaner that is specifically polymer safe
Carb cleaner...$2-3 a can, Walmart brand. Keep it off wood, paint, and plastic.
Yes you can use Brake Cleaner but you have to make sure it is non-chlorinated as it can and will damage the polymer parts. As a Tractor/Trailer Mechanic I have sprayed regular chlorinated Brake Cleaner on the Polymer hubcaps and watched the cracks appear fast but Non-Chlorinated Cleaner has no bad effects, I sprayed down a cheap Polymer Handgun I had to see what the Non-Chlorinated cleaner would do and there were no ill effects at all but the Chlorinated spray damaged the Gun. After cleaning be sure to lube everything that should be and wipe the metal slide and barrel with oil to prevent rust. Delta Bravo is Correct .
I only use brake cleaner when I shoot corrosive surplus ammo in bolt action rifles. Then I spray the bore, parts and wood in Ballistol and Frog Lube the metal on metal rubbing. I never use brake cleaner for normal non-corrosive ammo sessions.
Do I detect a Mosin? ;)
Mausers and Mosins!
Wooo! I love mine. :)
All I ever do now is spray the crap out of everything with breakkleen, air-hose immediately until dry then spray with rem oil and wipe down. I started doing this with my 10/22 because I shoot it a lot and got sick of cleaning it old school. It does have a magpul synthetic stock on it. After 10 years now It’s fine. It might be a tad faded but that could also be from many hours in the sun. There’s no obvious signs that the breakleen did anything negative. I wish I knew this 40 years ago lol.
I use the acetone brake cleaner and it does make the plastic on my Ruger 22/45 feel funny for a while but that goes away in 20 minutes.
Cleans really fast.
That seems like it is degrading the integrity of the plastic. Seems like it might lose durability like that, but if it works, it works!
Any tips on keeping the outer surface of the gun lube with a light oil when going in and out of pockets and holsters?
Keep reapplying it. That's the only way.
Great content, thanks for the information.
Thank you!
I just got a Remington Mosin Nagant m91 for my birthday. It’s my first gun, and I love it!
Happy Birthday! That's an awesome rifle! I might suggest a less aggressive cleaner on a classic rifle, but at least keep the brake cleaner away from the wood. :)
@@ThatDeltaBravo I used mineral spirits and 0000 steel wool to clean the wood, and the same for the metal pieces. I polished the bolt assembly, and added a layer of oil to it all to prevent rusting. I’ll tell ya, that wood cleaning made it look like a whole new rifle! I believe it’s made of walnut.
@@ryankessler9470 That's awesome. Congrats!
Been using it on gas port of my AR spray in flush out dirt and powder take lone pipe clean go thru it spray a light oil pipe cleaner ran thru it 2 more time till dry and clean .
Yeap! I tried break clean on my rock island tac ultra fshc 45acp. Work. 👌 OUTSTANDING. I did like you said, witch is VERY IMPORTANT. Lube right after cleaning with break fluid. What I like to do is cause I have a Air Compressor at my house, is after I get done cleaning my firearms with break clean is blow them out ' GENTLY ' with the air then flow that up with lubing up with Radco CLP, or your favorite lube. All in All. Break clean is a TIME SAVER , from getting in there with cotton ear swabs, and picks cotton patches. Nope! Not anymore for me
Glad it worked well for you!
@@ThatDeltaBravo yes, sir. I'll NEVER go back to using patches or ear swabs again
I bought an used AK47 from a friend that was super dirty, I don’t think he ever cleaned. Use a large bottle of brake cleaner and left some parts like the bolt submerged in it and came out supper clean. Now I won’t use it in a pistol. Just for AR-15s bolts or any AKs, pistols are super easy to clean with just CLP.
That's awesome! And yes, while it may be easy, this was more so about the cost. Brake cleaner is far cheaper, especially in the long run. I do believe it still is also factoring in the additional cost of oil and lube as well you'll need after using brake cleaner.
This was really helpful thanks for making this video
No problem! Glad it helped. :)
I feel funny asking you to do this but you could you please put on another video where you take some of these Plastics put it in a solvent and put it on your garage shelf fot a year then we'll know for sure and we'll all Point your video and you as the hero for finally solving this.
Lol. No. No firearm part of any sort should ever be left in any type of cleaner. The only thing that should ever be left on a firearm is oil or grease.
Any cleaing advice for PT92 in steel/aluminum finish ?
"Standard" firearm cleaners should be fine.
Use it on inside of barrels all the time then one oil patch after
If you have a firearm thats cerakoted or has a parkenized finish, I’d stay away from brake cleaner, but for the most part it works great on guns that have a lot of rounds ram thru them
I've used it on a Cobray M11 and it was okay. However, better to be safe than sorry.
Can I use LOCTITE rust dissolver ? Thanks
What about carb cleaner for powder fouling? There are marine outboard carbon cleaners too.
I assume when coming to firearms, they would do the same thing, but I have NOT tested them, so don't hold me to anything. Lol.
@@ThatDeltaBravo Might make a good test for video
I said powder, but should have said carbon. Carbon can be very stubborn
@@Eugene2ndW Once ammo prices come down, I'll see what I can do!
hey i just noticed my guns have light rust on them giving a orange hue due to humidity will the brake cleaner remove the rust allowing me to oil them without the rust?
Brake cleaner does not remove rust. I would suggest 0000 steel wool and something like Hoppes 9. Be careful though! Those are both aggressive and abrasive and could damage your finish worse if you're not careful.
Take of all your plastic/rubber (also fibre optic) hose it down with non chlorinated polymer safe cleaner, blow everything out with compressed air. Allow to dry. When dry completely hose down with a ceramic conservative/lubricant like Flunatec gun coating. Allow to work in an hour or so, wipe off any acces which didn’t completely dry.
You now have a squeaky clean and lubricated firearm.
I use carb cleaner and oil immediately after. Does it degrade plastic? I don't know but so far no signs of that on my glock or any other gun of mine. Carb cleaner is meant for cleaning carbon off metals so why not? You absolutely have to do it in a well ventilated place with no flames, such as pilot lights though.
Carbs have gaskets, so I would assume carb cleaner should be safer, but I still would avoid directly spraying it on polymer/plastic parts on your firearm, just to be safe.
In a pinch I was just wondering if spraying out the bolt when you don't have time to break down and re assemble would be ok. Fluted Chamber in a PTR might be good too since you really can't get that MF clean with traditional stuff. I would think it necessary to spray on an oil otherwise you are bound to miss some nook or cranny.
There should be no "pinch" when it comes to cleaning. Especially using WD-40. If you plan on doing something like that, a CLP is a must. However, if rushing, it takes minutes to strip, spray, and oil. Not worth the risks of doing something like you described.
Contact cleaner...Similar price. Doesn't harm plastic. And also offers some corrosion protection. Even though I oil everything well after cleaning.
Thanks for the tip!
Fairly new to the hobby... so, big question... can you offer oil your gun, if so than what??
I'm not sure what you mean, but any oil really works if you just averagely use your firearm.
Good video, I think brake cleaner is a very harsh cleaner hence the name its designed for cleaning brake parts, I would not use it on my firearms especially when there are many safer solvents, and you did demonstrate how it removes everything to bare metal, in my opinion its over kill for firearms.
Thanks! I think it's safe for moderate use on "modern" firearms. Do I use it all the time? Nah. But at least I know I can if I need to!
Liked and subbed. Great video.
Thank you!
Which break cleaner is it
And is it the car or heavy vehicle break cleaner or what
What if in a long pot v put our M4 for some 10 to 15 min then v dry it then v put it in diesel for around 30 min
Then take it out and dry it from the out side only and leave it in the sun for some time so the inside diseal drips out
Aso how's that easy fast process
I don't remember. I think this was the store brand from Advance Auto Parts. I can't speak for the old Navy Seal tricks you're talking about, but I know spraying this works!
Very helpful thanks 👍
You're welcome!
Thanks for this video
No problem!
This nitty gritty specific stuff on firearms is good to have when there isn’t a lot of information to get the right answers.
Exactly! That's why I wanted to make this video, because I could not find the right answer. :)
taurus is lower end, disassemble the weapon and use regular brake kleen on your metal parts. BE minful of yout nite sights on your slide.
I use brake cleaner for years on my competition shotguns keeping it OFF of WOODEN Stocks, and have NEVER had a problem !
Awesome!
Hello. Im a primitive metal head. Is brake klean and karb klean basikly tbe same shit? Bekuzz thats what i used to klean last time and followed up with WD-40 just to keep it slightly Soviet with an amerikan twist. Just kurios. Thanks.
Don't you have the letter "c" in your alphabet???
I believe brake cleaner is a tad more harsh.
@@stanleyneiljelinek1924 broken key
WD-40 isn't a lubricant, you need an oil not WD-40 after using brakecleaner.
Awesome video
Thx
You got it! Thanks for watching!
I have been shooting firearms for nearly 50 years and never have had problems using brake cleaner or carburetor cleaner on any of my firearms. I even used WD40 for lube. (THE FIREARM PURITANS JUST HAD A CONNIPTION)
Never had issues, ever.
WD in WD40 stands for water displacement nothing about lubing. Let’s think about that.
@mikeanthony07 Okay, here we go! I don't know what blog you copied and pasted from. But they are completely wrong! Here is the official WD40 website on their product explanation. Read carefully and remember that!
"WD-40® Multi-Use Product protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates almost anything."
Truthfully, for the last few decades, I actually just used the Walmart Super Tech brand to save even more money. Again, I never had any issues.
I have shot firearms for over 50 years (10s of thousands rounds down range and used WD-40 (Walmart super tech brand) for much of those decades). Again, I never had an issue or a problem with said lubricant. But Hey, if you want to spend 3 to 10 times more on super secret, always proprietary, special formulated gun lubricant, go right ahead.
is lucas good? both the gun and car?
No idea. I said what I used in the video, so that's what I know. Lol.
Nice!
Thank you!
Used it on a shotgun I painted. I taped off the rubber butt pad snd that was it! After that I taped everything I didn't want painted and started painting! One year later I'm still happy with the results! However I personally would never use it solely as my cleaner!
Nice! I agree. I use it when something is really dirty, or maybe a once per year clean on something I shoot a lot and clean a lot. "Normal cleaning" won't get everything this will.
@@ThatDeltaBravo when I used it it left something I could see, almost a white looking film or residue. Cheap brake cleaner from the Dollar Store. The gun I painted is on my page under the community tab if you would like to see the results!
Yes, but NON-CHOLORINATED!
Thank you you answered my question
You're welcome! Glad I could help!
Can you do a vid on using an Ultrasonic bath to clean firearms?
I would if I had access to one. :(
I have put it on 4 or 5 RUclips sit es over the last 10 years BUT i SAY TO SPRAY DOWN AFTER WITH WD40 AFTER BRAKE CLEAN. FOR rifle barrels & semi autos barrels take the stocks off, block end of barrel full with brake clean spray all metal parts including the trigger. . WD40 has fish oil in it, spray on wipe off & patch your barrel
I always just used it on the barrel 😊
So should I use break cleaner and lube? Or not?
You DEFINITELY need to lube the gun after.
Thanks for the video! In my experience with aerosol brake parts cleaners, if it melts a nitrile glove while you're wearing it, it's going to melt, or at least soften, any plastics. Now, the type of plastic will determine it damage. I'm pretty sure the composite plastics in many firearms can survive parts cleaners sold in parts/chain stores. I use electronic parts cleaner sprays here at work and the chemical will eat through a nitrile glove in seconds and it disastrous to many common plastics. It works wonder on carbon/soot, but again, kills many plastics!
I have not and probably will not use this product on polymer? However, it has never harmed a composite valve cover or engine cover at all. The same product I mentioned evaporates almost immediately, faster than any brake parts cleaner I've used. And I've had great success cleaning brake parts with it. That said, I'm pretty confident your tests and suggestions are spot on and many folks wondering would be safe with cleaning firearms with Brake Parts cleaners!
Thanks man! I really appreciate the detailed and comprehensive response. That is the reason I took the grip panels off the Beretta. 30 year old plastic might be risky, but a new Glock should be (and proved to be) fine. :)
it’s weird how brake cleaner does eat some rubbers and etc… but it doesn’t chew through your gloves?? lol I used it once to clean my impact tools I used on my car and It started to chew through the rubber grips on my brand new milwuake tools. Didn’t tear them up but it definitely ate through some of it
Chemistry is a crazy thing!
Did you use the non chlorinated version of brake cleaner? If not, then that’s your problem, right there. You’re welcomed.
Brake clean is fine but it needs to be the correct brake clean , all brands have there own formula. read the lable and understand what chemicals are in it and whether or not those chemicals are safe for your weapon type
Carb cleaner!!! Also the best hand soap for a mechanic
My Torino needs my carb cleaners. Lol.
Thanks for the spoiler... saved a lot of time. Still watched it until the end. 👍
Thank you! I appreciate that! As a RUclips watcher myself, I hate sitting around and waiting or clicking around. :)
Been really wanting to know the Answer to this question the guy at the gun shop who assembled my A.R. 15 lower for me said that you can use brake cleaner now the question is can you really use brake cleaner lol thanks for the video
No problem! Thank you for the comment. An AR should be fine. Just be sure to oil everything up after, and you'll be good!
COOL Great to know
Glad I could help. :)