“But... But... OiL iS a ChEmIcAl!” 😑 “ThE RuSt IsN’t ReMoVeD ThE oIl Is JuST cOVeRiNg iT uP!” 🙄 OK forensic video watchers, you want to tell me the barrel I have in my possession that you’ve never seen in person is actually still rusty? Second edit: I now have a video on my channel showing the same barrel that was treated nearly three years later with no maintenance also with a close up showing rust removal on a Walther PPK. Third edit: I’m seeing more people recommending the “penny trick”. Why waste an hour rubbing a penny over your entire shotgun and leaving copper fouling everywhere when this method works in seconds and does no harm? Fourth edit: Yes WD-40 and 3 in 1 oil and baby oil and mineral oil and Remoil will all work. Fifth edit: I am aware of bronze wool and the added expense and need to remove copper fouling after use. I use steel wool. Sixth edit: rust inside the barrel. There are more detailed answers in the comment section- but shotguns, wrap steel wool around a bronze bore brush with lots of oil. 10-15 passes should clean it up nicely. Rifles- use up several regular bronze bore brushes and oil before wrapping steel wool on the brush. It will destroy the sharpness of the rifling but can improve safety by removing rust that can cause excessive pressure. Both cases go slow and check for results. Seventh edit: yep, boiling the gun will convert red rust to black. This is rust bluing. Rust bluing without prep work polishing out or draw filing pits will give the appearance of a bad refinishing job and will hurt the value of guns more than having a bare patch of steel. Eighth edit: Preventing rust in the future… you should be inspecting your guns for rust at least monthly even if you aren’t using them. You will be able to catch insignificant problems before a gunsmith has to fix them. A wipe down with any oil and a soft cloth will be fine after handling. That’s all it takes. For more durable protection and for carry/hunting/utility guns a light coat of Renaissance Wax will protect them. Johnson’s paste wax can also be used on the metal and wood. Carry guns may need to be cleaned and oiled every night! Guns should always be stored in open circulating room temperature dry air whenever possible, but since most people keep their guns in safes, a dehumidifier is necessary. Guns should never be stored in soft gun cases as the cotton lining will trap moisture and hold it against the steel. Silicone treated gun socks can help prevent hand oils/salts from getting on guns you’re moving around in the safe. But they should still be checked on regularly. Guns stored on racks should be checked regularly where felt pads meet the barrel to make sure rust doesn’t form there. Ninth edit: if you want me to see your comment, post a new one, I never get notified of replies.
Yes. Oil is a chemical, but it is the only chemical to use on your guns. Stop being a dweeb. Everyone else understood his point. But we can wait for you to catch up. Great video. Great information.
Im not doubting your method and actually its a good one. but motor oil contains chemicals. If i really wanted to be a smartass i could say the steel wool is made of chemicals because anything on the periodic table is technically considered a chemical. Good video
Ive used this method for years as a professional gunsmith. I make one substitution: Use Bronze wool instead of steel wool. The leftover bits of steel wool will rust away leaving mure "red rust" spots if not removed by compressor air or such. Bronze is also softer on the blued finish. If you want to strip it down to bare steel real quick, I suggest using a green pot scrubber pad!
@ Lead mine. I just acquired an m1903 RIA rifle and would like to clean the wood stock and handguard. Is there a safe way to do it? or should I just leave it alone?
@@Macadamia923 Wood stock = 3/4 cup of canola oil, mixed with 1/4 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar. - (*Research this before applying and decide if it's what you want to do. Perhaps test a very small place on gun; or another gun?)
I use a Magic Eraser pad. It is the abrasive equivalent of 5000 grit sand paper. And you can softly apply it and fill it with oils or other fluid of your choice after it is cleaned out. You can easily see it strip away red rust but not the blueing or other finishes.
Hey man Ive got an old Replica of the 1858 Army Black powder Pistol. I just got through replacing some parts on it and noticed the Cylinder and barrel are rusty. It appears to be just surface rust. But Im not a gunsmith so I dont know how exactly to go about restoring it without removing the bluing. At first I thought white vinegar, then I read some people use Transmission Fluid and Acetone mix. Then I saw a video said to spray with Carburetor Cleaner rinse off with water then boil the parts and last use 40 steel wool. Now Im reading here that you use Bronze because the steel wool hairs.. So do I just forget about boiling it and use regular bronze wool no oil? What grain of wool do you use? Do I just stuff some Bronze wool down the barrel with some kind of cleaning rod? abd thatll do the trick?
@@russelmurray9268 This reminds me of an episode of Antiques Road Show. The appraisers told the owners of a Tiffany lamp that they had good news and bad news. The good news was that the lamp was worth $5,000. The bad news was that it would have been worth $50,000 if they hadn't shined it up.
I have used this method to clean up several older guns with great results. You, with this one video , may have saved thousands of guns from total destruction!! good job!
I agree and if I could just add one other tip. The 0000 steel wool as you mentioned is very fine and tends to break apart so I suggest to use a compressor and thoroughly blow off any steel hairs because they are rust bombs.
@@hogdog51 the canned air can still chill the metal enough for condensation to form. Also you never know what garbage made it's way into the can, particularly the cheap stuff
@@hogdog51 Many of us have water separators in the air line from the compressor. It is a standard precaution to keep moisture from getting into air tools.
Great tip with the steel wool. I collect older camping lanterns, several nickel plated. The 0000 wool does wonders for polishing without scratching it up.
I do the same thing. I use an industrial lubricant that I get from work for air compressors called R&O, comes in different weights (68, 100) etc. It stands for Rust and Oxidation. It's for carbon steel equipment that sees a lot of condensation. I use it exclusively on everything from guns, knives, tools, guitars, appliances etc. Its a crystal clear synthetic and I love it. Give it a look.
I just dragged couple of my guns out of the gun cabinet and noticed a little rust in spots after setting for a few years so I thought I'd checked YT to see if anyone has a quick solution... A big thumbs up on video.. Thanks
I had went hunting and water had gotten into my gun case and I did not know it and the gun sat for about a week and it had surface rust on it so now I can take it off
I do this, I usually however wash first with plain hot water to remove any soluble salts, they can come from several sources like salt sea mist, corrosive ammo, the shooters sweat, etc etc. We hunt a pine forest right beside a surf beach occasionally I always wash my firearms with hot water after going there.
@G Thompson :-) I had not heard of that method before. I was an 0331. Okinawa is a humidity factory. The only way to get that M-60 cleaned was to make sure the Platoon Sergeant was not in the Squad bay area, then take the M-60 to the deep sink ( normally for the mop bucket ;-) ) and turn on the hot water and wash the crud down the drain. Wipe the M-60 dry and then put a thin film of L.S.A. on it and return it to the Company Armorer. Viola!
Thanks..tried it on 22 cal rifle sitting in closet for 50 years. The 0000 steel wool with engine oil took off surface rust while leaving the bluing very nicely. Unfortunately some parts of rifle the rust ate through bluing and into the barrel. Took the rust off but I would need to do some sanding and rebluing if it was a heirloom rifle. It's a cheap $100 single shot so I'm happy with results. My sister gave me recipe to restore wood cabinets (3/4 cup canola oil mix with 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar. I rubbed this on stock and it restored the stock to look almost like brand new. Which is not bad considering this was a rifle used for training by high schoolers in a NRA rifle club.
I'm 65, your average outdoorsman throughout my life, and I've always had a particular interest in "fixin' things".., from an early age. Before my teens, I discovered -- on my own -- how well steel wool worked at removing rust. 60+ years before I've come across anyone else that knew of its worth. Running in the wrong crowd? From some of the comments, it appears that steel wool is not a secret, but it's secret enough. 😉 Thanks for this video. As you mentioned, far too many firearms are ruined unnecessarily. Far too many -- of all types of things -- are ruined by an overabundance of desire, ignorance, and confidence.
I've cleaned hundreds of guns too. By far the absolute best for surface rust, like the rifle in your example, is the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaning (pad). This eliminates the rust without affecting the bluing of the metal. For significant pitting oil and 0000 steel wool is probably required but I wouldn't use motor oil - it stinks and is very difficult to remove. But you still have to be able to get into the pits to remove all the rust. That said, steel wool will create oxidation even if immersed for some time within oil or grease. You can't get around this buy using oil and steel wool together. You will always have traces of steel wool held in place against the steel by the oil. I can't tell you how many old weapons I found with active rust growing under grease decades old. For this reason, I rarely use steel wool or any metal that will corrode to remove rust from a rifle or pistol.
@@Its_Melissa_Yall Most of the time I use the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaning (pad). This will remove rust but not the bluing. If significant rust or what some people call patina, I boil the rusted part for an hour or so. Then use either steel wool or a carding wheel to remove the residue. Some metal will need multiple treatments. This method is the only sure way to bring back the original bluing
Soo glad I saw your video. My uncle died & left the family his treasures, but he was in Tennessee... 99% humidity & by the time they were moved to Arizona, half were rusted.. We used the EXACT method you just showed, & it's a oily messy job.
0000 steel wool is also great on the windshield of your automobile, learned this trick from a gentleman who detailed cars for a living. It removes all the road grime bugs you name it....gone. I've also used it for polishing my firearms. I wouldn't recommend this method on stainless barrels for polishing or cleaning
Hey man I just want to tell you how much I appreciate this video. I tried this on my grandfather's 16 gauge he gave meand his m14 service rifle. I cleaned them up and showed him them today. He was blown away!!!! They were rusted and pitted, I had to use your truck about wrapping steel wool around the brush and cleaning up the barrel. It worked. Both guns are beautiful. Thank you.
@@HughesEnterprises I have a westernfield 20 gauge. Also known as a Mossberg 385K. I've been wondering about a non corrosive way to remove the surface rust. Do you use motor oil as a lubricant for all aspects of firearm lubrication? Bolt carriers, bolts, and other moving parts suseptable to wear.
Nice! Pretty sure that’s a stainless gun? I’ve found once stainless rusts once it’s likely to rust in the exact same spot again. A very light coat of Renaissance wax or even Johnson’s paste wax if that’s all you can get will prevent rust again and will protect a carry gun longer than just oil.
@@Silvermeow petroleum jelly will collect every single speck of dust that passes it. If you are curious if I'm right or wrong...smear some imin a paper plate...let sit in the cleanest area of your home for 72 hours. Brace yourself for the results.
I subbed ,still hild on the dream to resurrect about 4 from the ol farm that my bro says are done,not even sure they are still around but would be worthy even if its only around 50% redone
I've learned how to restore, build, clean, repair, repurpose, refinish countless different things on RUclips. Trick is to just do some counter searches and cross referencing to make sure you have an accurate tutorial or to learn a better methods. I've also learned tons about almost every type of artwork. My drawings and sketches went from cartoon like/ okay to being able to do people's portraits or even their pets with a pencil in less than 2 years so I'd say there's tons of useful information on RUclips Don't let it go to waste.
@@ferrallderrall6588Well, it's been 3 years. Did you ever get around to finding and restoring those 3 gμns at the farm despite your brother's personal opinion?
Never watched this video before but thank you very much since you proved an old friend right. An old friend of mine told me to use very fine steel wool coated with a bit of oil like motor oil and to go back and forth in one direction on the rusted metal with very light pressure but fast passes or to use Scotch-Brite if I didn't have any. He told me to not go completely dry. He said the steel wool with light pressure and fast passes is abrasive enough to remove rust but the oil helps to not be too aggressive and lubricate and act as a bit of a cleaner and that particle suspender. Works perfectly. I also use just regular motor oil. Same friend told me to also use diesel oil since it's supposedly got more rust inhibitors and it naturally coming in thicker grades means it's a thicker coating, but modern oils have more rust inhibitors than before. Never had a rust or filth issue using motor oil. I feel like it's a lie told by gun oil makers to get you to buy their hyper overpriced stuff instead of using motor oil or really any oil like atf, power steering, and gear oil if there are no yellow metals it'll come into contact with since the sulphur in mosy gear oils can degrade yellow metals. But you almost never find that in guns except for the ejectable casings of course. Great to see the same method I was taught long ago.
I'm glad I found your channel. I was considering getting rust remover for my shotgun because other videos said that's what you need. Thanks for the info. I'll be heading out for some 0000 on payday.
This is why I dont trust the internet, Dread spawn states one has watched videos (more than one) then implys more than one content creator then proceeds to say this one video has they right methodology. The OP replys after having made a video saying they've done this to countless firearms and yet ask you to report back how it went as if one doesnt know.... Humans are strange creatures, I shall try on homemade first.....all I own
@@veronder I know it’ll work I just want to hear how happy they are with their guns in better condition. With this video I’ve probably saved 10,000-50,000+ guns from being irreparably damaged from improper cleaning methods. Over 400K views and I would bet the viewers also tell their friends how to do it. I love hearing stories of how they saved their family heirlooms or how they saved money and a trip to the gunsmith.
I’ve used this method for years. Works great. I’ve alway just used Rem gun oil but I like your idea of using motor oil, much cheaper and probably better lubrication. This 0000 steel wool method also works amazingly on chrome although I use chrome polish instead of oil.
Brother your channel is awesome, but what’s even more awesome, is that you take the time to answer everyone’s questions. Even the dumb ones you answer with kindness. Definitely earned a Sub from me. Great content, keep it up 👍🏻
Did this for my shotgun and it worked like a dream. So I just restored an older Sig pistol that the owner had thought completely lost, and it looks great! Rust is gone. I'm not a pro, complete noob at guns, but I have a passion for it. Thanks a ton! This is a frikken lifesaver! ❤
Been doing just this all my life to my guns and for restoration. When it comes to old bluing, you really have to use alot of finesse. And he's right about using brass or bronze mini brushes for deep or heavy rust, but they must be fine soft bristle, or it will lift bluing or other finishes around the edge of the pin holes of the rust pits. I often use wd40 and oil mix on very old bluing in delicate areas. Make sure you change to a new pad frequently as you bring the rust down. Or the grit will cut micro abrasion marks in otherwise good save able bluing. On shotgun barrels you can use a solid older copper penny and gently rub back and forth in lines to knock down heavy rust and preserve bluing, but again, lots of finesse and oil. The softer copper is the trick. But learn first on a less valuable shotgun before attempting saving a valuable one and hone your skill. Good luck. Great advise video here. He probably just helped save thousands of historic guns by posting this.
I have successfully done this for years. As a woodworker I keep stock of 0000 steel wool and use a bit of oil and steel wool to clean my tools. I have used some touch up cold blue on occasion but for the most part I do not need to. Good vid. This is good info to have.
I like this idea. I bought and used one of the "Rust Removers" on a Rem. M700 for a very small rust area near barrel/chamber about five years ago. Maybe about 1/8" by 1/2". Wanted to stop the rust from spreading. Applied the "Rust Remover" stuff and it took off the rust but also the whole exterior finish for about 1" by 3". :-( I just "subscribed".
I followed your video and the old Winchester model 12 and Ithica model 37 look really good. I inherited both when my mother passed away and they were a mess. It didn't take long to do it and they both look great. Thank you
Let me add that if you have serious surface rust to clean- lets assume its not in the action or bore...BEGIN Cleaning with clear water, after disassembling. This is the first step to always take with anything more than minor surface rust. Wiping away the obvious build-up then dry thoroughly before taking the steps the video gives. Also you can use old fashioned Crest tooth paste as a make do lapping compound if you need to do the job faster than waiting for the internet to deliver- yes it will be minty fresh too! this will help eliminate minor surface structures that will only collect moisture and dust and rust again. Be careful not to be over zealous and remove good blueing. I have never lapped a bore but I suspect this would work well.
I've been watching Mark Novak's RUclips channel and i like the way he goes through the conservation process on old guns. He'll boil the oils off of it plus he converts the red rust(ferrous oxide) to black rust(ferro-ferric)then cards it plus several other steps to preserving a firearm.
@@LilYeshua Without prep work draw filing away pits and re-polishing that’s amateur hour for any collectable gun worth more than a couple thousand dollars. That boiled rust blued gun would be labeled as a NPRF (non professional re-finish) at auction and lose a significant chunk of value. A a 1st gen single action army, a M1941 Johnson, a Lee Navy, even dime a dozen WWII production 1911’s with bare patches and pitting will always be worth far more than a poorly refinished rust blued gun.
What about a dremel tool with the bronze wire bush extension? In the military we would also use oil and a copper penny which is 1909 to 1982 pennies. Some 82 are zinc so weigh it and make sure it weighs 3.1. The zinc penny will weigh 2.5. The copper pennies are 95 percent copper compared to less than 2% on newer pennies.
I was blessed to learn this trick early on. My stepfather had a circa 1913 6.5x 55. Swedish mauser he brought back from over seas. Sadly the armorers disc was removed but I watched him clean it and he edjumacated me..😉 still have it, still a straight shooter. Took many deer in my youth with it.
And unlike the steel wool it won't get into your skin and hurt for days if you aren't wearing gloves which Hughes wasn't doing.He might have thick skin but I don't.Wear rubber chemical gloves and disassemble the gun before starting as you will want to get under the stock as it will have rust,too.
Thank you! This really helped me understand the concept. I have always been told not to use steel wool (no matter the coarseness), because it is steel, and will damage the steel upon which is lapped. I had been told to use a brass/bronze brush due to the softer steel. I had heard that lubrication should used, but I had never been told that gun lubricants were inadequate (though it does make sense).
Most gun lubricants are just overpriced repackaged automotive lubricants or various combinations of common solvents. The only time OOOO steel wool will hurt the finish is if you’re rubbing too hard or not using oil. I’ve even used a very coarse brillo pad once and did not scratch the finish when applying little to no pressure and just letting the wool cut the rust and suspend it in the oil. I don’t like bronze/brass wool because it doesn’t cut the rust as well and you have to clean bronze fouling off with a solvent when finished.
You say not to use CLP or Hoppe's because they don't dissolve rust. But my understanding is that both contain petroleum distillates which do dissolve rust (well, to a certain extent anyways - I know it won't break it down like certain acids, but it should penetrate and sop it up, or at least that's my understanding and I'd like your correction.) You say instead to use standard oil. What exactly is standard oil? Any motor oil? Does weight of the oil matter? Does synthetic/blend versus regular matter? Do additives matter? Also when you say not to use Hoppe's are you talking about Hoppe's #9 solvent, or Hoppe's oil? I know these are a lot of questions. Hope you don't mind answering. Thanks for the video.
You’re overthinking it. Hoppe’s refers to No.9, the solvent product of theirs everyone knows. That and CLP suck as lubricants and they also don’t remove rust like people think they do. Literally any oil that can provide film strength and separate the steel wool from the gun will work. Any grade of new motor oil, used motor oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, cooking oil, mineral oil, baby oil, molten bacon grease, etc. doesn’t matter what’s in the oil unless it specifically states on the package that it dissolves rust (like liquid wrench and some penetrating oils). Aerokroil is fine even though it says it loosens rust. All the oil does is prevent the fine steel wool from ever making contact with bare steel. Then you wipe it all off. It’s a whole other conversation what kind of ‘gun oil’ to put on after to prevent rust in the future.
I'm particularly fond of two methods. For light surface rust, I do what the military arsenals did when guns came in rusty. STEAM! It's the same process as slow rust bluing. Gently brush away any grime or rust flakes, degrease, and hang in a PVC pipe hooked up to a pressure cooker for the steam. The Fe2O3 is converted to FeO, card off the black dust, and it perfectly matches the pre-existing finish on many early arms. The other is a process used by museum curators and archaeologist to neutralize and remove rust from priceless artifacts: ELECTROLYSIS. 12v at 500-1200mA will pull off the rust and convert wants left to FeO, very efficient.
I know this is an old comment but could you perhaps elaborate on the process (the steam one) a bit more? I have a 1942 no1 mk3 smle and was wondering if this process would work for it.
Hadn't thought of it for a barrel but I've used electrolysis to take care of badly rusted cast iron frying pans - works very well and there are lots of videos on how to do it. One thing I found is that some battery chargers will not produce current unless there is the right load in the circuit so I had to hook the charger to an old battery with the battery connected to the cast iron.
I am getting some kind of light etchy looking rust starting on my guns(due to basement dampness problems) and was wondering if it was possible to remove rust without harming bluing. Hope this works on my Win. 94 side plates but the streaky bluing needs a redo any way. At any rate , a bad spot on a Remington 722 barrel near muzzle end may benefit from this technique. Much thanks for rust removing 'secrets'. You wouldn't believe how long it took to find an intelligent tutorial on how to remove rust safely on an otherwise good condition gun.
You would be amazed how many people think I’m trying to ruin their guns. I did this every day when I worked for Cabela’s as a gun buyer. Try out Renaissance wax to protect against rust for guns you don’t handle weekly or ones you use in bad weather.
@@everready19373 did you ever stick the blade in a potato and leave over night ? I did this with a German Eye stockman and next morning the shiny blade was black as the ace of spades
I have been using stainless steel wool with oil for years, It works very well and zero chance of finish damage and no chance of any stray fibres staying around to creat rust down the line.
Hello, I have a Schmidt Rubin 1889 Rifle that has rust inside the muzzle end. Is it okay to use the 0000 Steel Wool to remove the rust or will it damage the rifling?
@@3rdusmcsam The short answer is yes it can damage the rifling if you wrap 0000 steel wool around a bore brush and scrub out the rust. However this is your only option if you plan on shooting it with paper patched bullets and hope to have any accuracy and a bronze brush wasn’t enough. Go slow and check for results. Stop when the bore is still dark, and don’t favor one side or another from the muzzle to preserve the concentricity of the crown. If you’re not going to shoot it, just use a bronze brush and run a patch of oil through to preserve it as-is.
I'm more impressed by the 9 edits in the pinned comments then by the video itself. Am gonna try this on my westernfield 30/30 that has a bit of rust from poor storage
My grandfather just recently dropped of a old Stevens model 77e at my house and it looks sorta rough. Kinda like yours in the video. Glad to see it probably wont take much to clean it
Not much at all. Then clean it as usual with a gun solvent like Hoppe’s no#9, run a swab through the bore, rub some boiled linseed oil into the wood stock and get out and enjoy your new gun! The 77e can be a quite valuable gun in original condition. Don’t refinish it. Boiled linseed oil in the wood is standard military procedure for maintaining the gun and won’t affect the value.
@@HughesEnterprises thanks! The wood definitely needs some works specifically on the pump so ill be sure to take your advice. Id hate to ruin a gun given to me by him
Will this work with chromed pieces as well? I have a old H&R 12g break action that was my grandfathers. The chromed receiver is pretty crusty. I have left it alone because I didn’t know what would work without destroying it.
If it’s older than 40 ish years old it’s probably nickel plated, not chromed. It’s a fragile finish. If it’s flaking or bubbled nothing can be done for it except get the loose stuff off and hope the rest stays bonded. Steel wool and oil will take off the loose stuff but you might end up with a lot less nickel than what you started with.
As I'm watching this my 0000 steel wool is sitting a few feet away on my dresser. Turns out I've been using this method for years with great results. I usually use some kind of synthetic oil since the molecules are smaller and I leave the steel with a light coating of clean oil once I'm done. I live in a very humid area so rust is a big problem. Heavier oil stays on the surface longer but lighter oils soak into the metal a little but tend to evaporate. Not sure which is better
Try just a bronze bore brush soaked in oil first, chances are that’ll take care of it. A lot of times dust or unburned powder can look like corrosion. Make full passes of the bore starting from the chamber side. Don’t stop halfway or try to scrub. 5-10 passes should do. Unless you’ve been shooting really old surplus corrosive ammo all your problems will be resolved with just the .308” bronze bore brush. Of course clean dry patches or snake afterwards to get the oil out of the bore. Should shoot just fine afterwards. If you shot old military corrosive ammo didn’t clean it and the bore is rusted, more aggressive methods are necessary.
Hughes Enterprises ok I’ll give that a try. I made the mistake of assuming my gun case that got wet during last hunting season had dried out all the way and it looks pretty bad. It’s mostly the barrel surface so the bore may be in pretty good shape. Thanks HE.
Aqualust No problem. Despite what you might read or hear in a gun shop, even if the bore is pitted from corrosion once rust is removed, the gun will more than likely shoot exactly the same. I’ve got a sewer pipe bore mosin that’ll do an honest 1.5” 10 shot group at 100 yards. Hope the cleanup works for you!
Hughes Enterprises WOW I thought the barrel was pitted for sure. Everything looks brand new, even tried it on my 10/22 from the 80’s and it took almost all the rust off. Thanks for the help, made both my rifles look great 👍🏻
Try using two or three bronze bore brushes and oil. If that doesn’t work you can wrap the brush in OOOO steel wool. Just understand once you use the steel wool you will be risking serious damage to the sharpness of the rifling and you will remove the rust and increase safety, but may significantly decrease accuracy. Go slow and check for results.
I used this method to restore a rusted out WWII sniper training rifle... But I didn't learn about the method from this video... It was a method I learned from detail cleaning the chrome on cars, especially the bumpers. Removes the rust without scratching. Thanks
I was just thinking about this last night. Have a couple guns on my boat and the humidity has been horrid. Thought about Osphos for touchup but was uncertain. The phosphoric acid converts rust to iron phosphate and it is a phosphate barrel finnish. I'll see after a full cleaning/derusting.
Be careful. Phosphoric acid by itself will just strip all rust and leave you with no finish. Parkerizing to leave a phosphate finish is much more involved.
Wow! So simple, yet so effective. Thanks for sharing this very valuable info. I have an older GP WASR-10 that has some surface rust on it. I'll have to give this a try.
Absolutely. My first MAK-90 was a rust bucket that I bought cheap because of that. Five minutes with oil and OOOO steel wool and it looked like a new gun. Sold it a few weeks later and doubled my money.
I have used steel wool for rust removal for many years. I have also used it with a rod to bring a dubious bore in breech loading and muzzle loading rifles to a gleaming finish.
It works on all factory firearm finishes. DIY bluing out of a bottle is very soft and can be removed with this process. However this may be desirable as building up 3-5 thin layers of cold blue will give a stronger darker finish. Brownells recommends this with their Oxpho-Blue products. If the gun is very old or high end it may have nitre blued or strawed parts and care must be taken to not remove that very thin finish.
Theres a relatively cheap product out there that you can get, and a little goes a LONG WAY. Its called Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner and its truly an amazing product. It is an extremely coarse type of steel wool, about like a steel dish scrubber, but its not made of steel. Its made of some kind of proprietary alloy. Its designed for use in muzzleloaders that have rusty bores but it works on any gun made of metal to be honest. I used this stuff to restore the bore of a German K98k that had been used in combat, from sewer pipe condition to mostly shiny and a little frosty. I slugged the barrel afterwards and it still mic'd out at just under .323, which is spec for 7.92x57. I also used it to treat some severe surface rust on a wartime M1917 that I inherited but was surplused as unissued. The bore is perfect, all parts present, all serials matching, but there was a lot of rust flecks from sitting in humidity for 100 years with no preservative coating. Big 45 Frontier alloy scrubber removed every fleck of rust easily, without much pressure or any lubrication and did so without damaging any of the original bluing. In the case of the M1917, the rust was deep enough to remove the bluing underneath as it came off,but there was no pitting and the gun is rust free. Were it not what it is, Id touch up the white spots but Ive opted to just shoot it and enjoy it and curate it in the meantime. Big 45 Frontier is an amazing product and I will buy more of it in the future and I encourage all antique gun enthusiasts to have some in their tool kit.
I oiled after cleaning and use, then I stored it in a full coverage cloth and wiped it dry before using it again. A light coat of oil. I was a rust worker, job title (Corrosion Control Specialist) in The US Air Force. Rust starts on the outer surfaces, then goes deeper. I even oiled the wood.
I have a new redhead gun safe with 2 silica moisture absorbers and a heater. My bolts on my rifles got discolored and any brass in the safe also. The humidity is 32% in the room the safe is in and humidity in the safe is 28%. I’ve read online we’re the drywall and glue for the carpet react. If you have a fix I would appreciate it. Thanks
Should have bought a better safe like a Brown. There can be A LOT of moisture trapped in cheap safe drywall that will steam your guns like broccoli if there is ever a house fire. They won’t burn but there won’t be much that isn’t destroyed. Important paperwork included. Also if you have guns with wood stocks, some moisture in the air is better than none at all otherwise the wood can shrink and crack over time. Like if your house is 50% humidity, outside is on average 75%, and you keep the safe at 15%, that can cause problems. My house/safe is usually over 50%+ humidity and I don’t have rust issues unless I handle the guns and don’t wipe them down afterwards. But you’ve got the safe so what do you do? It may take a very long time for any leaching moisture or chemicals to go away. Clean all your guns thoroughly and apply a light coat of Renaissance Wax to all surfaces (except the bolt face and the bore- those get light coat of oil then clean patch dry). For added protection keep them in a silicone treated gun sock. Cabelas sells those by the six pack. Ammo, store it in milspec cans with good rubber seals with their own drier packs inside. Or Plano ammo boxes again with rubber seals and drier packs. Don’t wax the ammo.
Thanks for letting us know how to make a firearm look like newI have been considering rebluing my childhood BB gun but thanks to you I’ll try it your way thanks thanks thanks
For Chrome car bumpers I used to use 0000 Steel wool then tried the Aluminum foil trick and the foil worked better on Chrome. I love these types of videos.
Had a outdoor smoker and a bbq with no cover that both started getting pretty rusty ,both seemed rejuvenated with a paint brush and used canola, still seem ok after a couple more seasons
Thank you for sharing. My wife inherited a few old shotguns from her father when he passed last month. Couple years back they restored the old 22 my father taught me to shoot as a child. Its not worth anything but it Sure ment a lot to me when I lost him last year. It will be nice to return the favor to my wife. Thank you...
Sage CLP and Hoppe’s aren’t oils they’re cleaners. Motor oil, transmission fluid, cooking oil, WD-40, anything that’s an oil that doesn’t say it removes rust as a feature will work fine. Whatever you use you want lots of it and you want it slick because the oil is providing the barrier so the steel wool doesn’t scratch the finish. CLP/Hoppes only provide minimal lubrication and will allow the wool to scratch the gun.
Bought a new S&W M&P 22 Compact. It must've been in it's factory box a long time between manufacturer date and purchase date because the barrel had a dull and smudged appearance. When I oiled the barrel and wiped it with a cloth rust came off on the cloth. I used gun cleaner and a fine nylon bristled brush on it until no more rust came off and the barrel had a shiny polished look to the bluing.
Rust must not have been too bad then. Manufacturers get all kinds of complaints of their guns being too oily because they don’t want them rusting, so a lot now ship them out dry.
@@HughesEnterprises My thoughts on it are you know when you oil your gun and as time passes that the oil dries up. I'm thinking that the gun was was manufactured a long time ago and the oil dried up plus wherever that gun was stored might have had humid conditions (PSA Columbia SC) . Just my opinion.
Yes, sub par oils can dry out pretty quickly. Smith also has a habit for storing guns for months to years before releasing them to wholesalers. A lot of the first gen Shields being sold up to last March 2020 were all made and stockpiled around 2016 in preparation for Hillary to win. Wouldn’t surprise me if they had warehouses of other guns too.
I will be trying this out on my Remington model 31 soon in so glad to see there is somthing I can do to save my super old gun I inherited. I will update this after I try it
@@HughesEnterprises I haven't done it yet but I do want to inform you it does fire but sadly a small part of the stock broke off when I tested it. It's a fairly small piece so I can live it with. On a side note do you have any advice on how to clean the inside of the gun. Because the inside is fairly clean outside of 50-60 year old gun that had been in there. And I dont own a gunsmith kit so I cant remove the pins Only reason I haven't tried cleankng the rust off is in waiting on Amazon to deliver my OOOO steel wool.
ace142014 Save that piece that broke off it can be glued back on. I’m guessing the stock was kinda loose? The action will batter into the wrist of the stock and break it. There is a product called Gunscrubber that comes in a spray can. Take off the stock and hose down the inside. Do it outside. Try to scrub what you can get to with a toothbrush. Then re-oil what you can get to anywhere parts move. And of course re-oil the outside to prevent further rust.
@@HughesEnterprises the little bit that broke was weirdly was right by the bottom side of the recoil pad at it went flying so I could only find some of the wood that broke. And honestly I dont think with this model I can remove the stock without removing a pen. I will say thanks for being very helpful because I havent been able to find nothing about this online honestly. Also one more maybe dum question but do all all old shotguns kick like a 12 gauge. This gun has a ton of recoil and is much louder compared to the single shot 20 gauge I grew up shooting (again this is a 20 gauge) so I am just am curious
ace142014 The toe of the stock which is the piece you’re describing is pretty common to see broken especially if the gun has been dropped before. No big deal. If you remove the two screws in the butt pad/plate and take it off there will likely be a deep hole and at the bottom a screw that holds the stock in place. If the stock is tight and doesn’t wobble, don’t take it off, but if it’s even a little loose that screw needs to be fastened or you risk damaging the stock more. You’ll need a very long screwdriver. Yep, all 12 gauge manually operated guns will hit you the same. Lighter guns hit harder than heavier guns. Hard plastic butt pads definitely don’t help. If you’ve got a rubber pad, it’ll take most of the pain out of it. But you’ve still got to pull the gun tight into your shoulder so it pushes your whole upper body. If it’s up at your shoulder but you’re not pulling it in, you’re giving it a chance to get up to speed and punch you in the collar bone. Also leaning forward a bit into the gun will help. But if that doesn’t help, you’ve discovered why 20 and 28 gauge shotguns are so popular.
I have some very old guns given to me by my grandfather. One is completely rusted through but the others look ok except the rust. I’ll give this a shot on one of them.
Even the really bad one, rub a bronze bristle brush with oil into the rust and check for results. You might be surprised how much original finish is left on it!
@@HughesEnterprises I see you did the barrel in your video. Could I also do the same thing on rust for the receiver? Sorry for all the newb questions. 😔
So once rust starts, does that mean it has eaten into the blued finish? Leaving a pitted, or damaged area? I have a brand new Ruger. It started rusting, even though I thought I was caring for it. I determined that because it sat in front of my AC over night, when I brought the freezing cold it out into the humid southern morning, water was condensing on it. Its only a few months old, and I just realized it was starting to rust. Im hoping the pitted finish is repairable. Its very very slight, but glaring to me of coarse. I hope its not permanently scarred.
The first thing to rust in a blued finish is the finish itself. It converts from beautiful and blue and flat to bulky, red and flakey. Most of the time when you catch it early there is still good finish left under the rust it’s just a little thinner and you can’t tell it was ever rusted. Leave it longer and it’ll eat all the finish away and leave you with a patch of silver steel once cleaned. Left even longer and the rust will start eating the metal and leave pits. All depends on the severity of the rust. Fingerprint rust will take a long time to pit. Blood or colas can cause pitting in hours. I have seen Ruger 10/22’s ship brand new from the factory with rusted barrels. Many people complain about new guns being so oily but I’d take dripping in oil over bone dry any time. If the finish is gone and it’s only lightly pitted Ruger offers very competitive rates to have the gun refinished professionally. Or just live and learn. Hopefully just some OOOO steel wool and oil will fix it up and get it looking new again.
Video you won't need any chemicals . Proceeds to break out a jug of oil . 😆 great tip though . I will add to break down the fjirearm as far as you are comfortable doing so . Rust gets everywhere .
Came across the video 2 years after the fact, but quick question...does cold bluing affect value if we have a gun that has been in less than ideal conditions for decades? Once the rust is removed woth this method that is.
Depends on the type of gun, type of cold blue, and whether or not there’s pitting. Cold blue is cosmetic only. It won’t affect how well the gun resists rust in the future. Only oil and wax can do that. Done well following all the prep work, a cold blue like Brownells Oxpho blue paste can make a pretty convincing finish. Though you’ll be able to smell it and an experienced collector will see it right away. If the gun has pits it’s going to look terrible. If the gun is a shooter or utility gun and you want it to look a certain way, go for it. Forget the book value on common worn and used sub $400 utility guns like shotguns and hunting rifles. They will always be worth pretty much the same regardless of whether they’ve got some wear. If you’re worried about potential collectability even on guns that aren’t treated as collectible like Post-64 Winchester’s or Post War but Pre-Lock Smith revolvers, or don’t use cold blue. Honest wear will always command a higher price than refinished. But really, they’re your guns and who cares whether the gun loses some value if you get your enjoyment and money’s worth out of it having it a certain way.
“But... But... OiL iS a ChEmIcAl!”
😑
“ThE RuSt IsN’t ReMoVeD ThE oIl Is JuST cOVeRiNg iT uP!”
🙄 OK forensic video watchers, you want to tell me the barrel I have in my possession that you’ve never seen in person is actually still rusty?
Second edit: I now have a video on my channel showing the same barrel that was treated nearly three years later with no maintenance also with a close up showing rust removal on a Walther PPK.
Third edit: I’m seeing more people recommending the “penny trick”. Why waste an hour rubbing a penny over your entire shotgun and leaving copper fouling everywhere when this method works in seconds and does no harm?
Fourth edit: Yes WD-40 and 3 in 1 oil and baby oil and mineral oil and Remoil will all work.
Fifth edit: I am aware of bronze wool and the added expense and need to remove copper fouling after use. I use steel wool.
Sixth edit: rust inside the barrel. There are more detailed answers in the comment section- but shotguns, wrap steel wool around a bronze bore brush with lots of oil. 10-15 passes should clean it up nicely. Rifles- use up several regular bronze bore brushes and oil before wrapping steel wool on the brush. It will destroy the sharpness of the rifling but can improve safety by removing rust that can cause excessive pressure. Both cases go slow and check for results.
Seventh edit: yep, boiling the gun will convert red rust to black. This is rust bluing. Rust bluing without prep work polishing out or draw filing pits will give the appearance of a bad refinishing job and will hurt the value of guns more than having a bare patch of steel.
Eighth edit:
Preventing rust in the future… you should be inspecting your guns for rust at least monthly even if you aren’t using them. You will be able to catch insignificant problems before a gunsmith has to fix them. A wipe down with any oil and a soft cloth will be fine after handling. That’s all it takes. For more durable protection and for carry/hunting/utility guns a light coat of Renaissance Wax will protect them. Johnson’s paste wax can also be used on the metal and wood. Carry guns may need to be cleaned and oiled every night! Guns should always be stored in open circulating room temperature dry air whenever possible, but since most people keep their guns in safes, a dehumidifier is necessary. Guns should never be stored in soft gun cases as the cotton lining will trap moisture and hold it against the steel. Silicone treated gun socks can help prevent hand oils/salts from getting on guns you’re moving around in the safe. But they should still be checked on regularly. Guns stored on racks should be checked regularly where felt pads meet the barrel to make sure rust doesn’t form there.
Ninth edit: if you want me to see your comment, post a new one, I never get notified of replies.
😂😂 as a chemist, I was tempted but I fought back the urge!
He used a synthetic even. Haha! Hopefully I'll never have to try his method. Ut-oh, I better go check them!
Yes. Oil is a chemical, but it is the only chemical to use on your guns. Stop being a dweeb. Everyone else understood his point. But we can wait for you to catch up.
Great video. Great information.
@@billquigley8100 Wound up a little tight are ya? Yes I would do this if I had to.
Im not doubting your method and actually its a good one. but motor oil contains chemicals.
If i really wanted to be a smartass i could say the steel wool is made of chemicals because anything on the periodic table is technically considered a chemical. Good video
That angle grinder story sent chills up my spine...
Alex Squatch I sucked air when i heard it!
@@PlanePreacher giggity
had a face like i smelled dog mess when he talked about that.
Kids are dumb, what do you expect.
Those were the days. A time when people were responsible enough to have gun class in school.
Ive used this method for years as a professional gunsmith. I make one substitution: Use Bronze wool instead of steel wool. The leftover bits of steel wool will rust away leaving mure "red rust" spots if not removed by compressor air or such. Bronze is also softer on the blued finish. If you want to strip it down to bare steel real quick, I suggest using a green pot scrubber pad!
@ Lead mine. I just acquired an m1903 RIA rifle and would like to clean the wood stock and handguard. Is there a safe way to do it? or should I just leave it alone?
@@Macadamia923 Wood stock = 3/4 cup of canola oil, mixed with 1/4 cup of Apple Cider Vinegar. - (*Research this before applying and decide if it's what you want to do. Perhaps test a very small place on gun; or another gun?)
@@uncletio0428
Thanks! I will try this.
I use a Magic Eraser pad. It is the abrasive equivalent of 5000 grit sand paper. And you can softly apply it and fill it with oils or other fluid of your choice after it is cleaned out. You can easily see it strip away red rust but not the blueing or other finishes.
Hey man Ive got an old Replica of the 1858 Army Black powder Pistol. I just got through replacing some parts on it and noticed the Cylinder and barrel are rusty. It appears to be just surface rust. But Im not a gunsmith so I dont know how exactly to go about restoring it without removing the bluing. At first I thought white vinegar, then I read some people use Transmission Fluid and Acetone mix. Then I saw a video said to spray with Carburetor Cleaner rinse off with water then boil the parts and last use 40 steel wool.
Now Im reading here that you use Bronze because the steel wool hairs.. So do I just forget about boiling it and use regular bronze wool no oil? What grain of wool do you use? Do I just stuff some Bronze wool down the barrel with some kind of cleaning rod? abd thatll do the trick?
The high school students used an angle grinder to remove the rust from a civil war rifle. It's painful just to hear that story.
I trust those students were held back for a year or so
@@russelmurray9268 This reminds me of an episode of Antiques Road Show. The appraisers told the owners of a Tiffany lamp that they had good news and bad news. The good news was that the lamp was worth $5,000. The bad news was that it would have been worth $50,000 if they hadn't shined it up.
@@1notgilty yet another case of "if you don't know what the fuck you're doing, don't do it"
A grinder to remove rust from any firearm is painful to hear
Held back a year…they deserve a thorough beating 🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
I have used this method to clean up several older guns with great results. You, with this one video , may have saved thousands of guns from total destruction!! good job!
I agree and if I could just add one other tip. The 0000 steel wool as you mentioned is very fine and tends to break apart so I suggest to use a compressor and thoroughly blow off any steel hairs because they are rust bombs.
Yes you should always get rid of the steel hairs. Good tip!
Use a can of computer duster not an air compressor . Air compressors can blow a fine mist of condensation , computer duster is a dry inert gas .
@@hogdog51 Very good idea, thanks!
@@hogdog51 the canned air can still chill the metal enough for condensation to form. Also you never know what garbage made it's way into the can, particularly the cheap stuff
@@hogdog51 Many of us have water separators in the air line from the compressor. It is a standard precaution to keep moisture from getting into air tools.
My dad was a gunsmith, seen him use steel wool as you described when I was a kid. Great tip
Great tip with the steel wool. I collect older camping lanterns, several nickel plated. The 0000 wool does wonders for polishing without scratching it up.
I do the same thing. I use an industrial lubricant that I get from work for air compressors called R&O, comes in different weights (68, 100) etc. It stands for Rust and Oxidation. It's for carbon steel equipment that sees a lot of condensation. I use it exclusively on everything from guns, knives, tools, guitars, appliances etc. Its a crystal clear synthetic and I love it. Give it a look.
Thanks for the angle grinder tip, I been waiting to use mine.
Works for weight reduction too. Just a few lightening cuts through the bolt and barrel and it’ll be lighter than it was before.
@@HughesEnterprises that response sir, got you a sub.
@@truthfulconch7773 HE DOES NOT WANT A SUBMARINE
HE WANTS A NEW GUN
I just dragged couple of my guns out of the gun cabinet and noticed a little rust in spots after setting for a few years so I thought I'd checked YT to see if anyone has a quick solution... A big thumbs up on video.. Thanks
I had went hunting and water had gotten into my gun case and I did not know it and the gun sat for about a week and it had surface rust on it so now I can take it off
Does it work? I see minor rust spots on top of my colt 45 I don’t want to damage it’s titanium color
I do this, I usually however wash first with plain hot water to remove any soluble salts, they can come from several sources like salt sea mist, corrosive ammo, the shooters sweat, etc etc. We hunt a pine forest right beside a surf beach occasionally I always wash my firearms with hot water after going there.
@G Thompson
Hottest water we could get and Tide laundry soap! Then the LSA...
Semper Fi - Panama, '84 UNITAS
BTW, nobody uses Coca Cola anymore??
@G Thompson :-) I had not heard of that method before. I was an 0331. Okinawa is a humidity factory. The only way to get that M-60 cleaned was to make sure the Platoon Sergeant was not in the Squad bay area, then take the M-60 to the deep sink ( normally for the mop bucket ;-) ) and turn on the hot water and wash the crud down the drain. Wipe the M-60 dry and then put a thin film of L.S.A. on it and return it to the Company Armorer. Viola!
So many great tips
Throw it in the dishwasher...😱
@@DL101ca Naa... That's only for pistols. Make sure you unload them first, unless you're Alec Baldwin.
I use a carpenters pencil the wide flat type . The lead is just abrasive yet soft enough to not damage blueing
I agree. I use G96 Gun-treatment instead of oil.
Thanks..tried it on 22 cal rifle sitting in closet for 50 years. The 0000 steel wool with engine oil took off surface rust while leaving the bluing very nicely. Unfortunately some parts of rifle the rust ate through bluing and into the barrel. Took the rust off but I would need to do some sanding and rebluing if it was a heirloom rifle. It's a cheap $100 single shot so I'm happy with results. My sister gave me recipe to restore wood cabinets (3/4 cup canola oil mix with 1/4 cup of apple cider vinegar. I rubbed this on stock and it restored the stock to look almost like brand new. Which is not bad considering this was a rifle used for training by high schoolers in a NRA rifle club.
Hey, thanks for the recipe..
I'm 65, your average outdoorsman throughout my life, and I've always had a particular interest in "fixin' things".., from an early age. Before my teens, I discovered -- on my own -- how well steel wool worked at removing rust. 60+ years before I've come across anyone else that knew of its worth. Running in the wrong crowd? From some of the comments, it appears that steel wool is not a secret, but it's secret enough. 😉 Thanks for this video. As you mentioned, far too many firearms are ruined unnecessarily. Far too many -- of all types of things -- are ruined by an overabundance of desire, ignorance, and confidence.
I've cleaned hundreds of guns too. By far the absolute best for surface rust, like the rifle in your example, is the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaning (pad). This eliminates the rust without affecting the bluing of the metal. For significant pitting oil and 0000 steel wool is probably required but I wouldn't use motor oil - it stinks and is very difficult to remove. But you still have to be able to get into the pits to remove all the rust. That said, steel wool will create oxidation even if immersed for some time within oil or grease. You can't get around this buy using oil and steel wool together. You will always have traces of steel wool held in place against the steel by the oil. I can't tell you how many old weapons I found with active rust growing under grease decades old. For this reason, I rarely use steel wool or any metal that will corrode to remove rust from a rifle or pistol.
So what do you use then?
@@Its_Melissa_Yall Most of the time I use the Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaning (pad). This will remove rust but not the bluing. If significant rust or what some people call patina, I boil the rusted part for an hour or so. Then use either steel wool or a carding wheel to remove the residue. Some metal will need multiple treatments. This method is the only sure way to bring back the original bluing
Bronze Wool, No Rust
I have a KK Wehrsprortgewehr i was about to use acid on and I wanted to do more research before I got started. I’m glad I did, thank you.
Happy to save another gun!
Soo glad I saw your video. My uncle died & left the family his treasures, but he was in Tennessee... 99% humidity & by the time they were moved to Arizona, half were rusted.. We used the EXACT method you just showed, & it's a oily messy job.
But the rust is gone! Glad I could help.
I’ve got one a old old gun guy showed me. Works flawlessly.
Well ??? Carpenters Pencil ??? Worn out jeans ? Wool ?
0000 steel wool is also great on the windshield of your automobile, learned this trick from a gentleman who detailed cars for a living. It removes all the road grime bugs you name it....gone. I've also used it for polishing my firearms. I wouldn't recommend this method on stainless barrels for polishing or cleaning
Just a FYI for bug mess on the truck paint use a dryer sheet wet works like magic, will need to wash off residual
Been doing this for years! First time that I actually saw someone else do it!! Subbed!
Thanks Chuck!
As a gun lover I thank you for helping me in cleaning my shotgun it worked wonders!!! She's as beautiful as ever hitting that sub button
Hey man I just want to tell you how much I appreciate this video. I tried this on my grandfather's 16 gauge he gave meand his m14 service rifle. I cleaned them up and showed him them today. He was blown away!!!! They were rusted and pitted, I had to use your truck about wrapping steel wool around the brush and cleaning up the barrel. It worked. Both guns are beautiful. Thank you.
Thank you! I inherited a couple of guns with a little rust on them, and this video is very helpful.
Saving old guns is my mission
@@HughesEnterprises I have a westernfield 20 gauge. Also known as a Mossberg 385K.
I've been wondering about a non corrosive way to remove the surface rust.
Do you use motor oil as a lubricant for all aspects of firearm lubrication?
Bolt carriers, bolts, and other moving parts suseptable to wear.
I just used this method to clean up my dad's Taurus UltraLite that had rust on the sites, barrel, and cylinder. It worked great.
Nice! Pretty sure that’s a stainless gun? I’ve found once stainless rusts once it’s likely to rust in the exact same spot again. A very light coat of Renaissance wax or even Johnson’s paste wax if that’s all you can get will prevent rust again and will protect a carry gun longer than just oil.
@@HughesEnterprises what about petroleum jelly?
@@Silvermeow petroleum jelly will collect every single speck of dust that passes it. If you are curious if I'm right or wrong...smear some imin a paper plate...let sit in the cleanest area of your home for 72 hours. Brace yourself for the results.
@@fly_swatter_ nice as long as it protects it
Great video. Simple techniques proven over time. People have been taking care of guns for about 3 centuries now without harsh chemicals.
HONEST, USABLE KNOWLEDGE FOR FREE ON RUclips! WHO WOULD HAVE THUNK IT?
THANK YOU, SIR.
Thanks for watching!
Ha thunk
I subbed ,still hild on the dream to resurrect about 4 from the ol farm that my bro says are done,not even sure they are still around but would be worthy even if its only around 50% redone
I've learned how to restore, build, clean, repair, repurpose, refinish countless different things on RUclips. Trick is to just do some counter searches and cross referencing to make sure you have an accurate tutorial or to learn a better methods. I've also learned tons about almost every type of artwork. My drawings and sketches went from cartoon like/ okay to being able to do people's portraits or even their pets with a pencil in less than 2 years so I'd say there's tons of useful information on RUclips Don't let it go to waste.
@@ferrallderrall6588Well, it's been 3 years.
Did you ever get around to finding and restoring those 3 gμns at the farm despite your brother's personal opinion?
Just what I needed. I have a few collectors items and a house with a lot of humidity.
Never watched this video before but thank you very much since you proved an old friend right. An old friend of mine told me to use very fine steel wool coated with a bit of oil like motor oil and to go back and forth in one direction on the rusted metal with very light pressure but fast passes or to use Scotch-Brite if I didn't have any. He told me to not go completely dry. He said the steel wool with light pressure and fast passes is abrasive enough to remove rust but the oil helps to not be too aggressive and lubricate and act as a bit of a cleaner and that particle suspender. Works perfectly. I also use just regular motor oil. Same friend told me to also use diesel oil since it's supposedly got more rust inhibitors and it naturally coming in thicker grades means it's a thicker coating, but modern oils have more rust inhibitors than before. Never had a rust or filth issue using motor oil. I feel like it's a lie told by gun oil makers to get you to buy their hyper overpriced stuff instead of using motor oil or really any oil like atf, power steering, and gear oil if there are no yellow metals it'll come into contact with since the sulphur in mosy gear oils can degrade yellow metals. But you almost never find that in guns except for the ejectable casings of course. Great to see the same method I was taught long ago.
I'm glad I found your channel. I was considering getting rust remover for my shotgun because other videos said that's what you need. Thanks for the info. I'll be heading out for some 0000 on payday.
Dread Spawn Nice! Let me know how it turns out.
This is why I dont trust the internet,
Dread spawn states one has watched videos (more than one) then implys more than one content creator then proceeds to say this one video has they right methodology.
The OP replys after having made a video saying they've done this to countless firearms and yet ask you to report back how it went as if one doesnt know....
Humans are strange creatures, I shall try on homemade first.....all I own
@@veronder I know it’ll work I just want to hear how happy they are with their guns in better condition. With this video I’ve probably saved 10,000-50,000+ guns from being irreparably damaged from improper cleaning methods. Over 400K views and I would bet the viewers also tell their friends how to do it. I love hearing stories of how they saved their family heirlooms or how they saved money and a trip to the gunsmith.
@@veronder it's a good trait not to believe everything you see on the internet, it's also a good trait to use critical thinking.
@@veronderYou’re overthinking this buddy. 😂
I've been using this method for years. People are always amazed at how I make their guns look in a matter of minutes right before their eyes.
Thanks for watching! I’m amazed how many people didn’t know to do this.
I’ve used this method for years. Works great. I’ve alway just used Rem gun oil but I like your idea of using motor oil, much cheaper and probably better lubrication. This 0000 steel wool method also works amazingly on chrome although I use chrome polish instead of oil.
Brother your channel is awesome, but what’s even more awesome, is that you take the time to answer everyone’s questions. Even the dumb ones you answer with kindness. Definitely earned a Sub from me. Great content, keep it up 👍🏻
Thanks, Brian!
Copper penny and oil works good, also brass or bronze wool and oil work great
Did this for my shotgun and it worked like a dream. So I just restored an older Sig pistol that the owner had thought completely lost, and it looks great! Rust is gone. I'm not a pro, complete noob at guns, but I have a passion for it.
Thanks a ton! This is a frikken lifesaver! ❤
Thanks for sharing! Glad I could help save a couple more guns!
Been doing just this all my life to my guns and for restoration. When it comes to old bluing, you really have to use alot of finesse. And he's right about using brass or bronze mini brushes for deep or heavy rust, but they must be fine soft bristle, or it will lift bluing or other finishes around the edge of the pin holes of the rust pits. I often use wd40 and oil mix on very old bluing in delicate areas. Make sure you change to a new pad frequently as you bring the rust down. Or the grit will cut micro abrasion marks in otherwise good save able bluing. On shotgun barrels you can use a solid older copper penny and gently rub back and forth in lines to knock down heavy rust and preserve bluing, but again, lots of finesse and oil. The softer copper is the trick. But learn first on a less valuable shotgun before attempting saving a valuable one and hone your skill. Good luck. Great advise video here. He probably just helped save thousands of historic guns by posting this.
Finally someone who understands what I’m trying to do!!! Great tips.
I have successfully done this for years. As a woodworker I keep stock of 0000 steel wool and use a bit of oil and steel wool to clean my tools. I have used some touch up cold blue on occasion but for the most part I do not need to. Good vid. This is good info to have.
Thanks for watching!
I like this idea. I bought and used one of the "Rust Removers" on a Rem. M700 for a very small rust area near barrel/chamber about five years ago. Maybe about 1/8" by 1/2". Wanted to stop the rust from spreading. Applied the "Rust Remover" stuff and it took off the rust but also the whole exterior finish for about 1" by 3". :-( I just "subscribed".
I followed your video and the old Winchester model 12 and Ithica model 37 look really good. I inherited both when my mother passed away and they were a mess. It didn't take long to do it and they both look great. Thank you
Thanks for the comment Joe! Glad they got saved and you can enjoy them.
Been doing this for years...honestly thought I was the only one!
Hopefully we’ll stop seeing so many rusted guns at stores and shows now!
Let me add that if you have serious surface rust to clean- lets assume its not in the action or bore...BEGIN Cleaning with clear water, after disassembling. This is the first step to always take with anything more than minor surface rust. Wiping away the obvious build-up then dry thoroughly before taking the steps the video gives. Also you can use old fashioned Crest tooth paste as a make do lapping compound if you need to do the job faster than waiting for the internet to deliver- yes it will be minty fresh too! this will help eliminate minor surface structures that will only collect moisture and dust and rust again. Be careful not to be over zealous and remove good blueing. I have never lapped a bore but I suspect this would work well.
Thank you so much brutha I have a brand new 10 22 never fired sitting around has a bit of oxidation on it, had me worried
Should come right off no problem. You would be amazed how many new guns ship out rusty
I've been watching Mark Novak's RUclips channel and i like the way he goes through the conservation process on old guns. He'll boil the oils off of it plus he converts the red rust(ferrous oxide) to black rust(ferro-ferric)then cards it plus several other steps to preserving a firearm.
@@LilYeshua Without prep work draw filing away pits and re-polishing that’s amateur hour for any collectable gun worth more than a couple thousand dollars. That boiled rust blued gun would be labeled as a NPRF (non professional re-finish) at auction and lose a significant chunk of value. A a 1st gen single action army, a M1941 Johnson, a Lee Navy, even dime a dozen WWII production 1911’s with bare patches and pitting will always be worth far more than a poorly refinished rust blued gun.
I collect milsurps and I've used this method for years. Works great on tired looking military relics.
Thanks for watching! I have an old video using steel wool on a Japanese Type I Carcano- turned out great!
When you get it all cleaned up wipe it all down with a very lightly oiled old fashioned cloth baby diaper
@@paulschilling6561 Can you still buy them ?? lol
@@kraggman yeah they're still out there and really good for polishing up your truck too !
@@kraggman they are seeing a bit of a resurgence because of the restrictive price and unsustainable nature of disposable diapers.
What about a dremel tool with the bronze wire bush extension? In the military we would also use oil and a copper penny which is 1909 to 1982 pennies. Some 82 are zinc so weigh it and make sure it weighs 3.1. The zinc penny will weigh 2.5. The copper pennies are 95 percent copper compared to less than 2% on newer pennies.
Way too abrasive with the Dremel and too easy to take off the blue. Penny works but will take forever on a whole gun.
I was blessed to learn this trick early on. My stepfather had a circa 1913 6.5x 55. Swedish mauser he brought back from over seas. Sadly the armorers disc was removed but I watched him clean it and he edjumacated me..😉 still have it, still a straight shooter. Took many deer in my youth with it.
Does it still have the full stock?
@@DeezCheez69 yessir.
I did this on my single action shotgun worked well. i used old us army bore cleaner. and the steel wool you said to use. Worked very well.
I like brass wool myself. Very gentle on the finish.
And unlike the steel wool it won't get into your skin and hurt for days if you aren't wearing gloves which Hughes wasn't doing.He might have thick skin but I don't.Wear rubber chemical gloves and disassemble the gun before starting as you will want to get under the stock as it will have rust,too.
How to remove internal rust from firearms and does using rust removal sprays affect the paint of the weapon?
Thank you! This really helped me understand the concept. I have always been told not to use steel wool (no matter the coarseness), because it is steel, and will damage the steel upon which is lapped. I had been told to use a brass/bronze brush due to the softer steel. I had heard that lubrication should used, but I had never been told that gun lubricants were inadequate (though it does make sense).
Most gun lubricants are just overpriced repackaged automotive lubricants or various combinations of common solvents.
The only time OOOO steel wool will hurt the finish is if you’re rubbing too hard or not using oil. I’ve even used a very coarse brillo pad once and did not scratch the finish when applying little to no pressure and just letting the wool cut the rust and suspend it in the oil.
I don’t like bronze/brass wool because it doesn’t cut the rust as well and you have to clean bronze fouling off with a solvent when finished.
Steel wool is much softer than gun steel 0000 will not harm bluing.
You say not to use CLP or Hoppe's because they don't dissolve rust. But my understanding is that both contain petroleum distillates which do dissolve rust (well, to a certain extent anyways - I know it won't break it down like certain acids, but it should penetrate and sop it up, or at least that's my understanding and I'd like your correction.) You say instead to use standard oil. What exactly is standard oil? Any motor oil? Does weight of the oil matter? Does synthetic/blend versus regular matter? Do additives matter? Also when you say not to use Hoppe's are you talking about Hoppe's #9 solvent, or Hoppe's oil? I know these are a lot of questions. Hope you don't mind answering. Thanks for the video.
You’re overthinking it. Hoppe’s refers to No.9, the solvent product of theirs everyone knows. That and CLP suck as lubricants and they also don’t remove rust like people think they do. Literally any oil that can provide film strength and separate the steel wool from the gun will work. Any grade of new motor oil, used motor oil, gear oil, transmission fluid, cooking oil, mineral oil, baby oil, molten bacon grease, etc. doesn’t matter what’s in the oil unless it specifically states on the package that it dissolves rust (like liquid wrench and some penetrating oils). Aerokroil is fine even though it says it loosens rust. All the oil does is prevent the fine steel wool from ever making contact with bare steel. Then you wipe it all off.
It’s a whole other conversation what kind of ‘gun oil’ to put on after to prevent rust in the future.
I'm particularly fond of two methods. For light surface rust, I do what the military arsenals did when guns came in rusty. STEAM! It's the same process as slow rust bluing. Gently brush away any grime or rust flakes, degrease, and hang in a PVC pipe hooked up to a pressure cooker for the steam. The Fe2O3 is converted to FeO, card off the black dust, and it perfectly matches the pre-existing finish on many early arms. The other is a process used by museum curators and archaeologist to neutralize and remove rust from priceless artifacts: ELECTROLYSIS. 12v at 500-1200mA will pull off the rust and convert wants left to FeO, very efficient.
I know this is an old comment but could you perhaps elaborate on the process (the steam one) a bit more? I have a 1942 no1 mk3 smle and was wondering if this process would work for it.
@@pyrogothica3906 midway USA has a gunsmithing video on how to rust blue a gun. They use a homemade steam chamber and card off the dust.
Hadn't thought of it for a barrel but I've used electrolysis to take care of badly rusted cast iron frying pans - works very well and there are lots of videos on how to do it. One thing I found is that some battery chargers will not produce current unless there is the right load in the circuit so I had to hook the charger to an old battery with the battery connected to the cast iron.
I am getting some kind of light etchy looking rust starting on my guns(due to basement dampness problems) and was wondering if it was possible to remove rust without harming bluing. Hope this works on my Win. 94 side plates but the streaky bluing needs a redo any way. At any rate , a bad spot on a Remington 722 barrel near muzzle end may benefit from this technique. Much thanks for rust removing 'secrets'. You wouldn't believe how long it took to find an intelligent tutorial on how to remove rust safely on an otherwise good condition gun.
You would be amazed how many people think I’m trying to ruin their guns. I did this every day when I worked for Cabela’s as a gun buyer. Try out Renaissance wax to protect against rust for guns you don’t handle weekly or ones you use in bad weather.
This is exactly how I clean the rust off of my carbon steel knives.
I actually like the gray patina a cleaned rusted knife gets
I put a mustard patina on my knives. It etches the metal and helps to keep it from rusting.
@@everready19373 did you ever stick the blade in a potato and leave over night ? I did this with a German Eye stockman and next morning the shiny blade was black as the ace of spades
I have been using stainless steel wool with oil for years, It works very well and zero chance of finish damage and no chance of any stray fibres staying around to creat rust down the line.
Hard to find super fine stainless wool in stores around here though.
It doesn’t need to be superfine, even kitchen grade will work fine without damaging finish.
Hello,
I have a Schmidt Rubin 1889 Rifle that has rust inside the muzzle end. Is it okay to use the 0000 Steel Wool to remove the rust or will it damage the rifling?
@@3rdusmcsam The short answer is yes it can damage the rifling if you wrap 0000 steel wool around a bore brush and scrub out the rust. However this is your only option if you plan on shooting it with paper patched bullets and hope to have any accuracy and a bronze brush wasn’t enough. Go slow and check for results. Stop when the bore is still dark, and don’t favor one side or another from the muzzle to preserve the concentricity of the crown. If you’re not going to shoot it, just use a bronze brush and run a patch of oil through to preserve it as-is.
I'm more impressed by the 9 edits in the pinned comments then by the video itself.
Am gonna try this on my westernfield 30/30 that has a bit of rust from poor storage
Been doing this since the 50s,,,only I used 3-in-1 oil.
My grandfather just recently dropped of a old Stevens model 77e at my house and it looks sorta rough. Kinda like yours in the video. Glad to see it probably wont take much to clean it
Not much at all. Then clean it as usual with a gun solvent like Hoppe’s no#9, run a swab through the bore, rub some boiled linseed oil into the wood stock and get out and enjoy your new gun! The 77e can be a quite valuable gun in original condition. Don’t refinish it. Boiled linseed oil in the wood is standard military procedure for maintaining the gun and won’t affect the value.
@@HughesEnterprises thanks! The wood definitely needs some works specifically on the pump so ill be sure to take your advice. Id hate to ruin a gun given to me by him
Thank you! This is amazingly simple.
My Grandfather taught me this method over 65 years ago and I can honestly say it works great.
Will this work with chromed pieces as well? I have a old H&R 12g break action that was my grandfathers. The chromed receiver is pretty crusty. I have left it alone because I didn’t know what would work without destroying it.
If it’s older than 40 ish years old it’s probably nickel plated, not chromed. It’s a fragile finish. If it’s flaking or bubbled nothing can be done for it except get the loose stuff off and hope the rest stays bonded. Steel wool and oil will take off the loose stuff but you might end up with a lot less nickel than what you started with.
What a good community teaching children the proper use and maintenance of firearms.
Little light rust? Angle grinder is the tool for the job.
Been doing that for years,also l have used heavy denim
Earthly denim will suffice as well.
What kind of oil?
As I'm watching this my 0000 steel wool is sitting a few feet away on my dresser. Turns out I've been using this method for years with great results. I usually use some kind of synthetic oil since the molecules are smaller and I leave the steel with a light coating of clean oil once I'm done. I live in a very humid area so rust is a big problem. Heavier oil stays on the surface longer but lighter oils soak into the metal a little but tend to evaporate. Not sure which is better
I have a 308 rifle that may have some rust inside the bore, what tool do I use to clean the interior of the bore?
Try just a bronze bore brush soaked in oil first, chances are that’ll take care of it. A lot of times dust or unburned powder can look like corrosion.
Make full passes of the bore starting from the chamber side. Don’t stop halfway or try to scrub. 5-10 passes should do. Unless you’ve been shooting really old surplus corrosive ammo all your problems will be resolved with just the .308” bronze bore brush. Of course clean dry patches or snake afterwards to get the oil out of the bore.
Should shoot just fine afterwards. If you shot old military corrosive ammo didn’t clean it and the bore is rusted, more aggressive methods are necessary.
Hughes Enterprises ok I’ll give that a try. I made the mistake of assuming my gun case that got wet during last hunting season had dried out all the way and it looks pretty bad. It’s mostly the barrel surface so the bore may be in pretty good shape. Thanks HE.
Aqualust No problem. Despite what you might read or hear in a gun shop, even if the bore is pitted from corrosion once rust is removed, the gun will more than likely shoot exactly the same. I’ve got a sewer pipe bore mosin that’ll do an honest 1.5” 10 shot group at 100 yards.
Hope the cleanup works for you!
Hughes Enterprises thanks sir I’ll let you know how it goes.
Hughes Enterprises WOW I thought the barrel was pitted for sure. Everything looks brand new, even tried it on my 10/22 from the 80’s and it took almost all the rust off. Thanks for the help, made both my rifles look great 👍🏻
A brush with copper bristles also works great and doesnt harm the finish. I regularly use a copper penny and scrape small rust spots off.
Only issue I have with bronze brushes and pennies is they often leave copper fouling which then usually to be removed with a solvent.
@@HughesEnterprises I say it's better to have a slight copper smear than rust. But I get where you're coming from.
Can you remove in-barrel rust?
Try using two or three bronze bore brushes and oil. If that doesn’t work you can wrap the brush in OOOO steel wool. Just understand once you use the steel wool you will be risking serious damage to the sharpness of the rifling and you will remove the rust and increase safety, but may significantly decrease accuracy. Go slow and check for results.
@@HughesEnterprises thank you :D
Ill be honest, i didnt expect a response on a video this old
I used this method to restore a rusted out WWII sniper training rifle... But I didn't learn about the method from this video... It was a method I learned from detail cleaning the chrome on cars, especially the bumpers. Removes the rust without scratching.
Thanks
Funny, I was looking to clean up my Nova ;)
I was just thinking about this last night. Have a couple guns on my boat and the humidity has been horrid. Thought about Osphos for touchup but was uncertain. The phosphoric acid converts rust to iron phosphate and it is a phosphate barrel finnish. I'll see after a full cleaning/derusting.
Be careful. Phosphoric acid by itself will just strip all rust and leave you with no finish. Parkerizing to leave a phosphate finish is much more involved.
Wow! So simple, yet so effective. Thanks for sharing this very valuable info. I have an older GP WASR-10 that has some surface rust on it. I'll have to give this a try.
Absolutely. My first MAK-90 was a rust bucket that I bought cheap because of that. Five minutes with oil and OOOO steel wool and it looked like a new gun. Sold it a few weeks later and doubled my money.
Which oil out of all that you’ve used you do recommend?
I have used steel wool for rust removal for many years. I have also used it with a rod to bring a dubious bore in breech loading and muzzle loading rifles to a gleaming finish.
Does this work on chemical blueing?
It works on all factory firearm finishes. DIY bluing out of a bottle is very soft and can be removed with this process. However this may be desirable as building up 3-5 thin layers of cold blue will give a stronger darker finish. Brownells recommends this with their Oxpho-Blue products.
If the gun is very old or high end it may have nitre blued or strawed parts and care must be taken to not remove that very thin finish.
Theres a relatively cheap product out there that you can get, and a little goes a LONG WAY. Its called Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner and its truly an amazing product. It is an extremely coarse type of steel wool, about like a steel dish scrubber, but its not made of steel. Its made of some kind of proprietary alloy. Its designed for use in muzzleloaders that have rusty bores but it works on any gun made of metal to be honest. I used this stuff to restore the bore of a German K98k that had been used in combat, from sewer pipe condition to mostly shiny and a little frosty. I slugged the barrel afterwards and it still mic'd out at just under .323, which is spec for 7.92x57. I also used it to treat some severe surface rust on a wartime M1917 that I inherited but was surplused as unissued. The bore is perfect, all parts present, all serials matching, but there was a lot of rust flecks from sitting in humidity for 100 years with no preservative coating. Big 45 Frontier alloy scrubber removed every fleck of rust easily, without much pressure or any lubrication and did so without damaging any of the original bluing. In the case of the M1917, the rust was deep enough to remove the bluing underneath as it came off,but there was no pitting and the gun is rust free. Were it not what it is, Id touch up the white spots but Ive opted to just shoot it and enjoy it and curate it in the meantime. Big 45 Frontier is an amazing product and I will buy more of it in the future and I encourage all antique gun enthusiasts to have some in their tool kit.
Thank you so much for your simple yet in-depth tutorial. You have saved me a lot of worry and money. Thank you
Happy to save some guns!
I oiled after cleaning and use, then I stored it in a full coverage cloth and wiped it dry before using it again. A light coat of oil. I was a rust worker, job title (Corrosion Control Specialist) in The US Air Force. Rust starts on the outer surfaces, then goes deeper. I even oiled the wood.
I was a crew chief in the air force. I just beat my guns with a hammer to get the rust off
Thanks a bunch, ill have to try this on my rusty 870.
Spiffy spiferson did it work?
It definitely helped. Depending on how bad the rust is I'd try it.
I have a new redhead gun safe with 2 silica moisture absorbers and a heater. My bolts on my rifles got discolored and any brass in the safe also. The humidity is 32% in the room the safe is in and humidity in the safe is 28%. I’ve read online we’re the drywall and glue for the carpet react. If you have a fix I would appreciate it. Thanks
Should have bought a better safe like a Brown. There can be A LOT of moisture trapped in cheap safe drywall that will steam your guns like broccoli if there is ever a house fire. They won’t burn but there won’t be much that isn’t destroyed. Important paperwork included.
Also if you have guns with wood stocks, some moisture in the air is better than none at all otherwise the wood can shrink and crack over time. Like if your house is 50% humidity, outside is on average 75%, and you keep the safe at 15%, that can cause problems. My house/safe is usually over 50%+ humidity and I don’t have rust issues unless I handle the guns and don’t wipe them down afterwards.
But you’ve got the safe so what do you do? It may take a very long time for any leaching moisture or chemicals to go away. Clean all your guns thoroughly and apply a light coat of Renaissance Wax to all surfaces (except the bolt face and the bore- those get light coat of oil then clean patch dry). For added protection keep them in a silicone treated gun sock. Cabelas sells those by the six pack. Ammo, store it in milspec cans with good rubber seals with their own drier packs inside. Or Plano ammo boxes again with rubber seals and drier packs. Don’t wax the ammo.
Thanks for letting us know how to make a firearm look like newI have been considering rebluing my childhood BB gun but thanks to you I’ll try it your way thanks thanks thanks
Hello, I love the info. Can I use this method on a rifle with patina without affecting the beautiful patina?
Yes, go slow and check for results. Lots of oil.
Got a good price on a old m6 scout ,it has some rust specs on barrel,gonna try this, thanks
joe 9990 t how’d it go?
For Chrome car bumpers I used to use 0000 Steel wool then tried the Aluminum foil trick and the foil worked better on Chrome. I love these types of videos.
I'm not a gun guy but I'm gonna see how well this works on classic bicycles where I wanna keep the paint but get rid of the rust
Had a outdoor smoker and a bbq with no cover that both started getting pretty rusty ,both seemed rejuvenated with a paint brush and used canola, still seem ok after a couple more seasons
Thank you for sharing. My wife inherited a few old shotguns from her father when he passed last month. Couple years back they restored the old 22 my father taught me to shoot as a child. Its not worth anything but it Sure ment a lot to me when I lost him last year. It will be nice to return the favor to my wife. Thank you...
Thank YOU for Intelligent Answer !!
Question what type of oil?
He say's use any oil including gun oil but at the end says dont use clp or hoppes can anyone suggest there favorite oil?
Sage CLP and Hoppe’s aren’t oils they’re cleaners. Motor oil, transmission fluid, cooking oil, WD-40, anything that’s an oil that doesn’t say it removes rust as a feature will work fine. Whatever you use you want lots of it and you want it slick because the oil is providing the barrier so the steel wool doesn’t scratch the finish.
CLP/Hoppes only provide minimal lubrication and will allow the wool to scratch the gun.
Thank you. I will try this on an old BB gun setting out in the garage
Let me know how it turns out!
Bought a new S&W M&P 22 Compact. It must've been in it's factory box a long time between manufacturer date and purchase date because the barrel had a dull and smudged appearance. When I oiled the barrel and wiped it with a cloth rust came off on the cloth.
I used gun cleaner and a fine nylon bristled brush on it until no more rust came off and the barrel had a shiny polished look to the bluing.
Rust must not have been too bad then. Manufacturers get all kinds of complaints of their guns being too oily because they don’t want them rusting, so a lot now ship them out dry.
@@HughesEnterprises My thoughts on it are you know when you oil your gun and as time passes that the oil dries up.
I'm thinking that the gun was was manufactured a long time ago and the oil dried up plus wherever that gun was stored might have had humid conditions (PSA Columbia SC) .
Just my opinion.
Yes, sub par oils can dry out pretty quickly. Smith also has a habit for storing guns for months to years before releasing them to wholesalers. A lot of the first gen Shields being sold up to last March 2020 were all made and stockpiled around 2016 in preparation for Hillary to win. Wouldn’t surprise me if they had warehouses of other guns too.
I will be trying this out on my Remington model 31 soon in so glad to see there is somthing I can do to save my super old gun I inherited. I will update this after I try it
Keep me posted. I love those old shotguns. It would be a shame for it to be relegated as a wall hanger, or worse, parts.
@@HughesEnterprises I haven't done it yet but I do want to inform you it does fire but sadly a small part of the stock broke off when I tested it. It's a fairly small piece so I can live it with.
On a side note do you have any advice on how to clean the inside of the gun. Because the inside is fairly clean outside of 50-60 year old gun that had been in there. And I dont own a gunsmith kit so I cant remove the pins
Only reason I haven't tried cleankng the rust off is in waiting on Amazon to deliver my OOOO steel wool.
ace142014 Save that piece that broke off it can be glued back on. I’m guessing the stock was kinda loose? The action will batter into the wrist of the stock and break it.
There is a product called Gunscrubber that comes in a spray can. Take off the stock and hose down the inside. Do it outside. Try to scrub what you can get to with a toothbrush. Then re-oil what you can get to anywhere parts move. And of course re-oil the outside to prevent further rust.
@@HughesEnterprises the little bit that broke was weirdly was right by the bottom side of the recoil pad at it went flying so I could only find some of the wood that broke.
And honestly I dont think with this model I can remove the stock without removing a pen.
I will say thanks for being very helpful because I havent been able to find nothing about this online honestly.
Also one more maybe dum question but do all all old shotguns kick like a 12 gauge. This gun has a ton of recoil and is much louder compared to the single shot 20 gauge I grew up shooting (again this is a 20 gauge) so I am just am curious
ace142014 The toe of the stock which is the piece you’re describing is pretty common to see broken especially if the gun has been dropped before. No big deal.
If you remove the two screws in the butt pad/plate and take it off there will likely be a deep hole and at the bottom a screw that holds the stock in place. If the stock is tight and doesn’t wobble, don’t take it off, but if it’s even a little loose that screw needs to be fastened or you risk damaging the stock more. You’ll need a very long screwdriver.
Yep, all 12 gauge manually operated guns will hit you the same. Lighter guns hit harder than heavier guns. Hard plastic butt pads definitely don’t help.
If you’ve got a rubber pad, it’ll take most of the pain out of it. But you’ve still got to pull the gun tight into your shoulder so it pushes your whole upper body. If it’s up at your shoulder but you’re not pulling it in, you’re giving it a chance to get up to speed and punch you in the collar bone. Also leaning forward a bit into the gun will help.
But if that doesn’t help, you’ve discovered why 20 and 28 gauge shotguns are so popular.
I have some very old guns given to me by my grandfather. One is completely rusted through but the others look ok except the rust. I’ll give this a shot on one of them.
Even the really bad one, rub a bronze bristle brush with oil into the rust and check for results. You might be surprised how much original finish is left on it!
Thanks so much! I have an old Ruger Mark 3 I am going to do this on.
thank u so much u just saved a .22 if mine that got really rusted while on the trapline great video!
Glad to help! Love knowing I have saved hundreds if not thousands of guns from being scrapped, turned into wall hangers, or sold for parts.
Save the firearms... they matter
Nice. What is your take on citric acid and washing or baking soda if there is more rust?
I'm going to try this on a 12 gauge Remington Wingmaster 870 that was passed down to me from my father-in-law.
OIF_ ArmyDV2007 Should clean up great! The old 870’s have a nice smooth blue finish that cleans easily.
@@HughesEnterprises This particular Wingmaster was produced in 2001.
Will the Rem Oil spray lubricant and using the 0000 pad work on the rust?
OIF_ ArmyDV2007 Remoil will work just fine. 2001 I believe is pre-freedom group acquisition so Remington still made a quality gun back then.
@@HughesEnterprises I see you did the barrel in your video. Could I also do the same thing on rust for the receiver? Sorry for all the newb questions. 😔
A bronze brush or copper kitchen pad also works great too
So once rust starts, does that mean it has eaten into the blued finish? Leaving a pitted, or damaged area? I have a brand new Ruger. It started rusting, even though I thought I was caring for it. I determined that because it sat in front of my AC over night, when I brought the freezing cold it out into the humid southern morning, water was condensing on it. Its only a few months old, and I just realized it was starting to rust. Im hoping the pitted finish is repairable. Its very very slight, but glaring to me of coarse. I hope its not permanently scarred.
The first thing to rust in a blued finish is the finish itself. It converts from beautiful and blue and flat to bulky, red and flakey.
Most of the time when you catch it early there is still good finish left under the rust it’s just a little thinner and you can’t tell it was ever rusted. Leave it longer and it’ll eat all the finish away and leave you with a patch of silver steel once cleaned. Left even longer and the rust will start eating the metal and leave pits.
All depends on the severity of the rust. Fingerprint rust will take a long time to pit. Blood or colas can cause pitting in hours.
I have seen Ruger 10/22’s ship brand new from the factory with rusted barrels. Many people complain about new guns being so oily but I’d take dripping in oil over bone dry any time.
If the finish is gone and it’s only lightly pitted Ruger offers very competitive rates to have the gun refinished professionally. Or just live and learn.
Hopefully just some OOOO steel wool and oil will fix it up and get it looking new again.
Video you won't need any chemicals . Proceeds to break out a jug of oil . 😆 great tip though . I will add to break down the fjirearm as far as you are comfortable doing so . Rust gets everywhere .
Came across the video 2 years after the fact, but quick question...does cold bluing affect value if we have a gun that has been in less than ideal conditions for decades? Once the rust is removed woth this method that is.
Depends on the type of gun, type of cold blue, and whether or not there’s pitting.
Cold blue is cosmetic only. It won’t affect how well the gun resists rust in the future. Only oil and wax can do that. Done well following all the prep work, a cold blue like Brownells Oxpho blue paste can make a pretty convincing finish. Though you’ll be able to smell it and an experienced collector will see it right away. If the gun has pits it’s going to look terrible.
If the gun is a shooter or utility gun and you want it to look a certain way, go for it. Forget the book value on common worn and used sub $400 utility guns like shotguns and hunting rifles. They will always be worth pretty much the same regardless of whether they’ve got some wear.
If you’re worried about potential collectability even on guns that aren’t treated as collectible like Post-64 Winchester’s or Post War but Pre-Lock Smith revolvers, or don’t use cold blue. Honest wear will always command a higher price than refinished.
But really, they’re your guns and who cares whether the gun loses some value if you get your enjoyment and money’s worth out of it having it a certain way.