I watched this out of pure curiosity. I'll never do it personally but I appreciate the art. I gotta say, most everyone that comes in here with a question gets answered. And that's awesome.
Thank you for watching. I personally think that NIC sort of misleads people, as far as how "simple" this stuff is. It is fairly easy, and forgiving, once you get the technique down. I've seen results all over the place. I do try to answer every comment.
You guy ROCK!!! Seriously, I can't begin to share how much I personally appreciate this share. It's the first video I looked at since becoming interested in this technique. I'm not a complete novice, but if I were, the content of this video gave me a little more courage to try this on my own. Now it's time to go,look at the stencils.... I can't wait! Thanks Brother!!!
Talk about timely! I was just looking at this for a water bottle. Going to do it over an American flag. Laura is helping me with the stencils now. Thanks for doing videos, John. You guys have been awesome!
@@BransonCerakote I tried the acetone rag vs scotch-bright a few times, I am a LOT better with a scotch-bright scuff style than doing the acetone and cotton rag. Just an FYI for other viewers, I found that with the acetone and rag it must be flash dried not an air dry gas-off or it just turns to a slimy goo every time but not with a flash dry. And a cotton t-shirt or bedding linen works better than a terrycloth washrag material. You need to move your fingers more often to a new/clean spot on the rag but the lint residue is cut way down or totally eliminated and far more control of over scuffing and not removing the base cote too. I think I'll stick to scotch-bright, go with what works best ;) Paul @ 4 Dogs Cerakote.
When doing the final curing in the oven at what temp/how long do you do when you have metal and plastic pieces together? Is just baking at the plastic standards 150-180 for 2 hours good for the metal? Or do you flash cure, disassemble and do a final cure separately? Great videos, thank you!
We pop everything in the oven at 180 for about 10 minutes. Pull to out and let it cool enough to handle. Put the polymer back in at the 180 for 2 hours. Once that's done, take the poly out, bump the oven to 300, and final bake the metal for an hour. Just FYI, some colors max out at 250. Be sure to check the data sheets on the cerakote website.
Have you done the video on TABLE ROCK CAMO yet? I would REALLY like to see that because I ordered your stencils but not happy with how my first try turned out so I want to try again. THANKS
Branson Cerakote no hurry. Just discovered tonight. Shared your biz with a few family members. Well soon make the short pilgrimage from Mt. Vernon down to see ya. Wife wants to visit the Landing soon anyway.
Hey. Thanks for the video. This is the first of yours that I've watched. Well done. I'm pretty familiar with Cerakote but I do have a question: after you Scothbrite and blow off residue, do you disassemble completely again and then finish the oven cure? Thanks!
Ok. I would have thought that the grip and stock would not take 180 for 2.5? Have you ever melted of mis-shapened that type of furniture, say Magpul? Thanks. Reading this is really a big help!
No, but let me clarify. That is with my oven. I have a deflection plate in the bottom so that there is no direct heat, and I have a circulating fan. If you don't have those two things, then use caution. Also, you should also always check your items periodically during your cure to make sure all is well. I should have also asked what type of gun. I'm assuming it's a polymer frame?
Hello, do you guys mix the catalyst with the last layer of black that you end up wiping off? I am going to attempt this style Cerakote this weekend. Thanks! Really enjoy the channel!
Thanks so much for this video. I am enrolled in Gunsmithing School in North Carolina and we are doing gunmetal refinishing. These comments answered almost all of my questions except for one. What did you use to clean the stock? The AR I have has a Magpul stock and I woner if I should use alcohol, Acetone or some other cleaner. Thanks for all your great videos. You are helping a lot of people.
Branson Cerakote is their a standard heat for polymer guns? My friend wants me to do a battleworn stars and stripes on his m&p 9 but I've never done multi color projects before. Is the standard temp for polymer guns 180? Thanks for your helpful videos
How often do you cerakote the gun when it is completely assembled? I also noticed you touched it without gloves after tacking out the first coat, does the oil from your hands not effect it that much?
When I'm doing a pattern, or battle worn, I spray the base coat with it disassembled. Once that tacks, i mock it up, and spray the rest of the pattern. That's so that the transition lines match up. It's a common misconception online that gloves are necessary all the way through. I understand why NIC puts that in the pamphlet (it protects them from liability), but it's not necessary. If while I'm working on a project, I notice something on the surface, I just wipe it down with a rag with acetone. I wash my hands constantly, and work with a lot of acetone, so my hands are overly dry instead of oily. When it comes to stenciling, it's almost impossible to handle the pieces without having them stick to the gloves. I've done thousands of projects, and have never had an adhesion issue. Side note, when you go out to NIC for factory certification, they don't wear gloves until they hit the spray booth.
Good mornin John. I’m wondering how you cerakote the inside of a free float 1 color and the outside a different color? Any info would be greatly appreciated. A video would be awesome. I have a STNGR hawk.
I've messed with that a bit over the years, and haven't found a technique I like the look of. I talked to Sonya fro Best Damn Guns out at SHOT Show, and she does some incredible work. Shoot her a facebook message.
Great tutorial. Does dry spray not become a factor when you go over your base coat with the battle worn coat when you are decreasing the air valve on the gun or when you are speckling in the end?
Nope. Dry spray is from being too far away. You are the same distance, you are just spraying faster. The speckling isn't actually spraying at all because there's only enough air pressure to make the gun spit droplets.
No. Cerakote won't stick to fully cured Cerakote. You'd need to strip it down and start again. If you tried to rub it now with a scotch brite or some steel wool, you'd just jack up the coating.
I did a m16a1 kit build and wanted the lower and upper to match so I used Colt grey for everything and my belt sander for distressing. Maybe that seems crude, but it looks authentic.
That is a bit of overkill. What we've done in the past for that same look is to base coat the entire thing in shimmer aluminum, air cure, tack. Once it cools, spray graphite black over the entire thing, air cure, tack, cool. Scotch brite the high areas where you'd normally get wear, down to the shimmer.. Hard bake.
Hey John I have a question. I’m in the process of building my gf an AR and I wanna do a battle worn purple on it. (Her favorite color is purple) my question is what’s a good base coat for the purple? I want It to have a black background in the heavy areas of battle worn. I know you say lighter is better but I don’t want the white back ground. Just wanna make sure I’m goin in the right direction before I start spraying. Thanks for all the videos and info. Love watch in the videos and learning. My dad and I are gonna start doin our own Ceracaoting and I’m using your videos as a guide.
It doesn't need a base. The purple is the base, 1 mil, then tack and spray black over that. I'd do the acetone battle wear over that. Check out our video with the rusted iron look, and it explains it pretty well.
Great work man. Have you tried using a lighter color like white or silver to "highlight" some of the ridges? I've had some success using a sponge to dab a little light color in spots. It gives it the look of being worn through to the steel.
Yep. This is one of our older videos. I tend to acetone battle wear everything lately. What I do when I want just a little of the lighter color to come through is, I use it as the base, then rub each color with acetone as I go along. That lets me just have the lighter color show where I want it.
Do you heat all the different parts together? The plastic stock and grip with the metal frame? If so at what temp as cerakote says to cure plastics at much lower temps. Thanks
Depends. When I'm doing a stencil pattern, I'll lay the base coat down on everything, then bake it for 8-15 depending on the type of surface, just to get it tack free. I'll then reassemble the gun, and complete the stencil pattern. After it's done, you have a couple of options. You can put it in the oven for about 15 minutes to get it tack free, take it out and let it cool, the disassemble it. You'd then bake your polymer at 180 for 2 hours. Once it's done, you can then pop the metal in at 300 for 1 hour. Or, you can just bake the whole thing for about 2.5 hrs at 180. I've never had an issue doing that, plus I clear coat almost everything.
I'd have to say no. They won't release the solvent that they use. I've heard about people trying acetone, but I wouldn't suggest it. The problem is how much? Too much and it's too thin (not the correct coverage). Not enough and it still doesn't spray correctly. We tend to stock the colors that we know we use consistently, so it's really never an issue.
So I cerakoted some parts in patriot brown and am thinking I’d like some graphite black over to give a slight battleworn look. I know the contrast won’t be great but I want it to be subtle. My question is you mentioned in your two tone video something about curing parts too much won’t allow new colors to adhere properly, so my question is will it be ok to do a quick wipe down with a degreaser and do a light coat of graphite black over top? Or will I run into some adhesion issues? Thanks for all your help!
Just throwing this out there, suppose someone wanted the “Battleworn” coat to be say a polar blue? How would you go about that? Cause you know if you mist that color, it will be rough. 🤔
Just go heavy enough to be smooth, then remove as much as you needed to for the look you need. With that color, I'd probably do acetone battle wear instead of scotch brite.
So you can do the bake at 180 for two hours does The firearm have to be taken apart to do the bait for metal and polymer any more than the two hour bake after the coating is complete?
Tack it for the last time at 180 with the gun mocked up. Once it's tacked, take the metal out, and finish baking the poly for two hours at 180. Once that's done, take the poly out, run the oven up to 250, and bake the metal for 2 hours.
Polymer yes. Plastic, most of the time. Some plastics have a high petroleum content, and the coating fails. We bake all polymer at 180. Most plastic can handle 180, but if we aren't sure, we go 150, which is the minimum we'd recommend.
@@BransonCerakote I really appreciate your answer. I am somewhat desperately searching for a rugged coating that will not simply come off due to contact with skin oils. I've seen simple skin contact ruin so many different paint coatings... I will look into Cerakote some more. Thanks again!
@@deezeemb We handle things without gloves after degreasing every day, and have never had adhesion issues. As long as your hands are clean, it just doesn't seem to be an issue.
I don't know. That gun is long gone. I do know most of the cheap guns are anywhere between 1.5 and 2. I normally only use them for microslick or clear coat, so they don't last very long. I did just order a bunch of them off of ebay with 1.25 needles, which is fine with the clear and micro.
I'm looking to coat rims, and internal and external engine components. Where is a good place to buy this stuff. I think I like this better than powder coat.
I tried your second technique about a week ago and messed it up. I put the second coat on too heavy-almost a full coat. The sides came out ok when I rubbed them but the corners went down to bare metal. I'm guessing I didn't heat the first coat long enough? Any thoughts? Thanks
Possibly, but if I had to guess I'd say your black was too hard. You have to take it out right when it's at the point of being tack free. Sometimes 30 seconds too much is too much.
I never touch the air knob on the gun. I run my pressure at a valve on the air pipe. I spray at 20 psi. (Elite and clear are different) The fan is either all the way closed for inside areas, or 6 inches for the all over coats. Volume is different with every color.
The most surefire way we've found is to coat the outside first, air cure, tack. once it's cool, completely mask the outside with high heat tape, and cut out all the windows with an exacto. Once thats done, set the HVLP up to do tight spaces (fan closed, volume where it needs to be), and carefully spray in from both ends. Air cure, tack, remove tape, hard bake.
Thank you sir. It's just battle worn with different colors. Use the same technique with the scotch bride pad, and you should be able to recreate it. That customer actually came back in several months later with a different hand guard, and we were able to match it perfectly.
I'm about to tackle this type of project on my current build. (light bronze and dark bronze) However, I'm looking for more of an antiqued look.. basically no scratches. Gonna to some test parts but I was thinking the following: Tack 6 min after the dark (thin) coat then rub with FINE (grey) scotch brite to get to the lighter bronze base? Just thought I'd ask a professional's opinion, thanks.
Check out our certified applicator wall hanger video. It does a pretty good job of showing the acetone battle worn technique. If you have any questions after, shoot me a call.
@@BransonCerakote Thanks for the reply! Just watched the vid. Awesome idea! EXACTLY the color flow I'm looking for. By the way, I assume the oven should already be at the recommended temperature when putting parts in to tack or full bake. Is this correct?
@@benclinkbc Yep. We fire our oven up at least 30 minutes prior. It only takes about 5 to come to temp, but it seems to do better when it's had time to heat soak.
Awesome, thanks I've been looking for ways to do it. I've actually started #cerakoting my own, from your videos, very well done. Question: can I do the battle worn look on a firearm I've already cerakoted? Or do I have to start over..
I've used both, and there's a bit of a difference. However, it all comes down to practice. As long as you are comfortable with your equipment, it doesn't matter too much. Some colors (white, yellow, etc) do spray better with the .8.
Hey buddy, I would like your take on Gun Kote. My Name is Dave and my business is D & J Firearms Specialist Inc. I do custom build AR style pistol and rifles. I started doing gun kote and I like it better then Cerakote. I would like to here your opinion. Thank You, Dave
I've never sprayed it personally, but we have removed it from a few guns over the years from people who weren't crazy about it. I'm a believer in Cerakote, but that doesn't mean the others aren't good.
Brother.... THANK YOU!!! I've been trying to figure out the splatter pattern for a while now! GREATLY appreciate the video. I would love to see any thing you can show! I've been cerakoting for about a year now and I am craving to learn as much as I can, I've even making my own stencils and trying out new things. I would love if we could exchange some emails because I have a little bit different method for Battle worn that looks amazing with burnt bronze and graphite black. Again brother great video and I can't wait to see more!
I have a question. When doing the scuff method. You bake it to get it tack free on base coat when u do the second color, do you spray it then tack free it then scuff or spray then let sit 15 min the scuff then bake? This is for h series thanks in advance
You can do it either way, however they both look different. Tacking it before you scotch write it gives it a scratched up look. Doing it still wet gives it sort of a grain, almost like a wood grain look.
Once the final color goes on, we bake everything at 180 for about 15 minutes to get it tacked out. We then remove the metal from the poly, and continue to bake the poly for 2 hours at 180. After that's done, we remove the poly and put the metal back in. Run the oven up to 250 and bake the metal for 2 hours.
I'm getting a 12 color pint kit and I was wondering your opinion on color choices so far I'm getting 4 of the elite colors and crushed silver bright nickel and tungsten have you used these silver colors b4 and do you think it's worth getting three similar colors? So far I've only used black graphite but looking at other colors wanted your professional opinion was also thinking zombie green just for giggles a pink red and burnt bronze and in the elite colors sand,fde, midnight, and the new m17 tan anything you recommend for the others ?
You'll use more burnt bronze and graphite than anything else. And of course the ever boring FDE, lol. I mix burnt bronze with a lot of other colors to end up with custom shades. Burnt bronze and safety orange in different ratios gives you some cool copper/burnt orange colors. Don't order more than one shade of black, honestly they are all pretty much the same. I rarely use pink or zombie. I seem to be doing a lot of tattered flags, so NRA blue, S&W red, and Snow white seem to always be in my fridge. Camo shades, browns and greens are always good to have. I always keep FDE, Forest Green, and Sage in the shop. Hope this helps.
Branson Cerakote - i noticed you said fridge. I've been using a small mini fridge and keep the setting fairly high (so it doesnt freeze). Do you think this helps extend shelf life??
Do you use the "acetone wipe" technique after spraying somelike like armor black over a basecoat? I've heard about this technique but I cant find any videos or write ups about it. From what I've been told, after the top coat is flash cured you take acetone on a rag and wipe areas to give it an antique look. Any info on this is greatly appreciated.
Never heard of it, but I have a battle worn project coming up this week. I'll give it a try, and see how it turns out. I sent a couple of slides out for machining, and should have them back by friday. I'm going to Battlewear one of them in a rusted iron look.
I use acetone on white scotchbrite on a flash cured topcoat. If you cure the topcoat for more than 11 minutes at 185, then you'll never get it off. LOL. I like the white scotchbrite for this because it won't blow through the base color.
So I noticed you have the rifle put together when you do the battle worn finish. Do you flash cure and then assemble the upper lower and rail to spray the battle worn part
Yep. I spray the base coat on with everything disassembled. Once they have air cured for the 8-10, tacked for 8 or so at 180, and cooled, I re-assemble everything. That allows you to have a seamless pattern.
@@BransonCerakote cool thanks. I am building an ar and want to do a custom cerakote job but the part I want to add a color too is already cerakoted white
So I want to a battleworn camo, but I thought maybe a reverse camo with lighter color stacked on a darker 2nd coat. My base is silver, battle worn black on top. The camo color choices would be fde, o.d green, forest green, brown. Sounds a bit unconventional I know. I'd love to see an example or for your opinion. Thanks
There aren't really any wrong answers. Camo has begun to swing from traditional, to sort of a modern flare, with wilder colors. I'd steer away from FDE and Forrest. They are really close in warmth, and tend to wash each other out from a few feet away. You may want to consider Noveske green, and Patriot brown.
The bigger the variance in the two colors, the better the effect. I doubt you'd really be able to see it with chocolate brown. I've never really had good luck using a dark base and lighter battle worn top color, but I've honestly not gone back and messed with it in a long time.
The only thing I could recommend would be to maybe spray something like sage or verde as a base coat, tack it, then the chocolate over top as a fairly complete coat. Tack that, then scotch bride pad the heck out of it. You'd sort of be doing it in reverse, and you'd have to be careful, but it may work. I did a battle worn red and black AR like that.
I have a problem with this effect, the top coat is very weak and the pattern becomes more intense with the use, do you recomend me to clear coat it for avoid that? What mix ratio do you recomend me for the best adesion between the two colors? Thanks in advance
I mix everything at 12:1. It's the most durable ratio. I also clear coat around 85% of the projects I do in the shop. I may be misunderstanding what you mean by very weak and more intense. Once you finish the effect, get it to where you want it so to speak, and hard bake it, it shouldn't change.
Branson Cerakote I mean that the black pells off very easy with my nail or with normal use after baking it, i will try the low gloss armor clear coat but im afraid that is not matte enough for the look im trying to get. I mix 12/1 and cure it at 300f 1 hour i dont know if im doing something wrong or its normal that the battleworn tends to distress more with normal use
It shouldn't flake off unless you are full curing you're base coat first. That's the only thing I can think of that will lead to a failure to adhere between the two colors. Other than that, give me a call when you have some time and we can try to diagnose it further.
When you do stencils, what do you do with the build up of Cerakote around the edges of the stencil. I have tried clear and wet sand but I just don't like that look.
Branson Cerakote if I understood the question he mentioned when he removes his stencil there is I high spot around where the stencil was from the paint build up and there is now a low spot where the stencil was when the vinyl was removed, As if there was to much coating instead of a smooth transition between the logo and coating?
Ok. Thats an issue with applying the follow on coats too heavy. The base coat is the only one that needs to be the .5 to 1 mil thickness. Every coat after that only needs to be heavy enough to cover the coat beneath it. With Cerakote, it doesn't take much. It may not look like it's covering when it's wet, but it will. Another trick for patterns like multicam, that have 5+ colors, is to use some male stencils and some female. It takes much longer, but it will cut down on the buildup.
Hey Sir, can you add your website to your video description and RUclips home page. People like myself will always refer to the video description for any website site promoted in the video, and because I am to lazy to type it out.
@@unknownm8569 You'd just spray your basecoat, air cure, tack. Let it cool, spray another color so that the surface is blended about 50/50 (honestly I'd do at least three colors). Air cure, tack, cool. Spray black, air cure, tack until sticky, not all the way tacked out. Hang it on a rack and gently wipe through the black with acetone on a tshirt until you get the look you want. Put it back in and bake hard. We'll put that on the list to do a video. It will probably be a while. We are finishing up content for a new website, and it's pushed youtube content to the side a bit.
@@unknownm8569 You can because you sand it down to bare metal, and coat like normal. Just a note, if it's a rifle bolt or pistol barrel, don't coat them with H series.
@@BransonCerakote more so just a dusting of metallic over the purple, just to give the purple that metallic flake look. I've tried mixing bright purple and titanium, looked amazing....baked out brown.
@@mt10fullsend78 That's your issue. Max temp for the purple is 250. Go 250 for 2 hours and you'll be good to go. Cerakote has tech sheets with max temp for all the colors on the resource page.
You may be too far away from the surface. The way to get it light is to dial the volume down, and spray the way you would regularly. If you try to "ease into" the trigger, you end up with some dry spray because you get too much air and not enough coating. I always adjust on a piece of butcher block before spraying on the surface to make sure I'm going to get what I need. If that isn't what happened, feel free to give me a call. Our contact info is on our web page.
Touch it somewhere where it won't matter. Inside of the frame, inside of the mag well, etc. A lot of it is just practice. I can usually tell within a minute or so just by looking at it.
@@BransonCerakote did you get one of these done yet? Doing one called little liberty that's going to have petina like the statue of liberty about halfway through it's transition. Would love tips on the green for small sections and cracks
@@Chubbza5 I haven't done the video yet, but it's pretty easy now that Cerakote came out with copper. The tarnish is usually just 8 mil of Robins Egg and 4 mil of Zombie. Spray it first, air cure, tack. Let it cool, spray the copper, air cure, partially tack (Get it sticky not dry). Gently rub through the copper in the places you want the tarnish to show through, then when it looks the way you want it to, bake it hard.
Absolutely. Base coat the entire gun in whatever color you want, air cure, tack, cool. Take the second color and spray towards where you want them to fade, creating a line. Go back and readjust the volume to be lighter, and airbrush the edge to fade the two layers together. Air cure, tack, final bake, done.
Sure thing. This technique works with any base color. The only thing to keep in mind is that the lighter the base coat, the more dramatic the end effect will be.
It's a custom built oven. I would not go through the company I used. Jim from Burnett electric in Reno is supposed to be building better ones than I have.
@@vetmecharms I'm not sure if he ever started building them, but if he did, I could recommend him Jim and Jessica are solid people.I'd give them a shout. Even if they aren't building them, he's a solid dude.
I'm actually filming a whole series in the evenings this week. I'm going to be doing a helmet, tac vest, ACOG, laser flashlight, and a bunch of nylon in C series. I'm also going to be doing a handgun and a rifle in H. All of the stuff will be with our new stencil pattern we call "Tablerock Camo". It will hopefully be up next week. Until then, spraying C is no different that H except there's obviously no oven cure. The only difference is it takes about 30-45 minutes to tac it out on the rack between coats, and you need to wait about 24 hours after the final coat to reassemble.
That's funny, we Battleforge burnt bronze all the time with no issue. You must be doing something wrong. www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/?tab=newest&orderby=newest&htids=5773%2C1774
When you bake Cerakote, it goes from wet to tacky (sticky) to tack free (fry, not sticky, tacked out) in the oven. If you are doing multiple layers, you need to take it out as close to the tack free point as possible so that it doesn't get too hard.
The best video I've seen on doing battleworn, thank you
Thank you sir!
Appreciate you mentoring new techniques
Always glad to help. We are going to really try to get back to this kind of content this year.
I watched this out of pure curiosity. I'll never do it personally but I appreciate the art. I gotta say, most everyone that comes in here with a question gets answered. And that's awesome.
Thank you for watching. I personally think that NIC sort of misleads people, as far as how "simple" this stuff is. It is fairly easy, and forgiving, once you get the technique down. I've seen results all over the place.
I do try to answer every comment.
Keep em coming brother. I cerakote my things and learned everything fr r on your videos.
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching.
Good video brother appreciate the information
Thanks for watching!
You guy ROCK!!! Seriously, I can't begin to share how much I personally appreciate this share. It's the first video I looked at since becoming interested in this technique. I'm not a complete novice, but if I were, the content of this video gave me a little more courage to try this on my own. Now it's time to go,look at the stencils.... I can't wait! Thanks Brother!!!
Glad to help!
Talk about timely! I was just looking at this for a water bottle. Going to do it over an American flag. Laura is helping me with the stencils now. Thanks for doing videos, John. You guys have been awesome!
Absolutely. Theres a couple of tricks with the tumblers and water bottles. Give me a call before you start, and I'll pass on some hard won tips, lol.
I have learned sooooo much from you.
Thank you.
Paul at 4 Dogs Cerakote
Thanks Paul!
@@BransonCerakote I tried the acetone rag vs scotch-bright a few times, I am a LOT better with a scotch-bright scuff style than doing the acetone and cotton rag. Just an FYI for other viewers, I found that with the acetone and rag it must be flash dried not an air dry gas-off or it just turns to a slimy goo every time but not with a flash dry. And a cotton t-shirt or bedding linen works better than a terrycloth washrag material. You need to move your fingers more often to a new/clean spot on the rag but the lint residue is cut way down or totally eliminated and far more control of over scuffing and not removing the base cote too.
I think I'll stick to scotch-bright, go with what works best ;)
Paul @ 4 Dogs Cerakote.
When doing the final curing in the oven at what temp/how long do you do when you have metal and plastic pieces together? Is just baking at the plastic standards 150-180 for 2 hours good for the metal? Or do you flash cure, disassemble and do a final cure separately? Great videos, thank you!
We pop everything in the oven at 180 for about 10 minutes. Pull to out and let it cool enough to handle. Put the polymer back in at the 180 for 2 hours. Once that's done, take the poly out, bump the oven to 300, and final bake the metal for an hour. Just FYI, some colors max out at 250. Be sure to check the data sheets on the cerakote website.
Have you done the video on TABLE ROCK CAMO yet? I would REALLY like to see that because I ordered your stencils but not happy with how my first try turned out so I want to try again. THANKS
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Great video. It’s also great to see a local making informative content. I’ll stop by soon about some coating I want done on a few items.
Be glad to have you. We are hoping to be in the new shop in a couple of weeks if you're not in a huge hurry.
Branson Cerakote no hurry. Just discovered tonight. Shared your biz with a few family members. Well soon make the short pilgrimage from Mt. Vernon down to see ya. Wife wants to visit the Landing soon anyway.
@@EchoJulez The Landing. Where men's wallets go to die.
Hey. Thanks for the video. This is the first of yours that I've watched. Well done. I'm pretty familiar with Cerakote but I do have a question: after you Scothbrite and blow off residue, do you disassemble completely again and then finish the oven cure? Thanks!
Nope. Bake that sucker at 180 for 2.5 hrs and you're done.
Ok. I would have thought that the grip and stock would not take 180 for 2.5? Have you ever melted of mis-shapened that type of furniture, say Magpul? Thanks. Reading this is really a big help!
No, but let me clarify. That is with my oven. I have a deflection plate in the bottom so that there is no direct heat, and I have a circulating fan. If you don't have those two things, then use caution.
Also, you should also always check your items periodically during your cure to make sure all is well.
I should have also asked what type of gun. I'm assuming it's a polymer frame?
I understand completely. Thanks. My question was basically about Magpul forearm, pistol grip and stock. Please continue to make great videos!
Hello, do you guys mix the catalyst with the last layer of black that you end up wiping off? I am going to attempt this style Cerakote this weekend. Thanks! Really enjoy the channel!
Yep, just tack it half way. Not wet, not dry, sticky.
Good stuff guys.
Thank you!
Thanks so much for this video. I am enrolled in Gunsmithing School in North Carolina and we are doing gunmetal refinishing.
These comments answered almost all of my questions except for one.
What did you use to clean the stock? The AR I have has a Magpul stock and I woner if I should use alcohol, Acetone or some other cleaner.
Thanks for all your great videos. You are helping a lot of people.
Wipe it down with acetone on a paper towel.
Glad to help.
Great video
Branson Cerakote is their a standard heat for polymer guns? My friend wants me to do a battleworn stars and stripes on his m&p 9 but I've never done multi color projects before. Is the standard temp for polymer guns 180? Thanks for your helpful videos
Yep. Don't go over 180.
Looks great, I like the technique.
Thank you for watching!
How often do you cerakote the gun when it is completely assembled? I also noticed you touched it without gloves after tacking out the first coat, does the oil from your hands not effect it that much?
When I'm doing a pattern, or battle worn, I spray the base coat with it disassembled. Once that tacks, i mock it up, and spray the rest of the pattern. That's so that the transition lines match up.
It's a common misconception online that gloves are necessary all the way through. I understand why NIC puts that in the pamphlet (it protects them from liability), but it's not necessary. If while I'm working on a project, I notice something on the surface, I just wipe it down with a rag with acetone. I wash my hands constantly, and work with a lot of acetone, so my hands are overly dry instead of oily. When it comes to stenciling, it's almost impossible to handle the pieces without having them stick to the gloves. I've done thousands of projects, and have never had an adhesion issue. Side note, when you go out to NIC for factory certification, they don't wear gloves until they hit the spray booth.
Just found your channel and am super excited as I’m getting ready to try to cerakote my own stuff. Ty so much for the info!!!! Keep up the good work
Thank you for watching!
Great video! Thanks for sharing. Beginners such as myself will learn a lot! Your stencils are amazing too!
Thank you sir!
Good mornin John. I’m wondering how you cerakote the inside of a free float 1 color and the outside a different color? Any info would be greatly appreciated. A video would be awesome. I have a STNGR hawk.
I've messed with that a bit over the years, and haven't found a technique I like the look of. I talked to Sonya fro Best Damn Guns out at SHOT Show, and she does some incredible work. Shoot her a facebook message.
Awesome vid. Thank you for taking the time and for sharing the insights you have.
Glad to do it.
Great tutorial. Does dry spray not become a factor when you go over your base coat with the battle worn coat when you are decreasing the air valve on the gun or when you are speckling in the end?
Nope. Dry spray is from being too far away. You are the same distance, you are just spraying faster. The speckling isn't actually spraying at all because there's only enough air pressure to make the gun spit droplets.
@@BransonCerakote Awesome technique!
Can I do the battle worn technique if the base coat has completely cured?
No. Cerakote won't stick to fully cured Cerakote. You'd need to strip it down and start again. If you tried to rub it now with a scotch brite or some steel wool, you'd just jack up the coating.
I did a m16a1 kit build and wanted the lower and upper to match so I used Colt grey for everything and my belt sander for distressing. Maybe that seems crude, but it looks authentic.
That is a bit of overkill. What we've done in the past for that same look is to base coat the entire thing in shimmer aluminum, air cure, tack. Once it cools, spray graphite black over the entire thing, air cure, tack, cool. Scotch brite the high areas where you'd normally get wear, down to the shimmer.. Hard bake.
very nice job
Thanks for watching!
Hey John I have a question. I’m in the process of building my gf an AR and I wanna do a battle worn purple on it. (Her favorite color is purple) my question is what’s a good base coat for the purple? I want It to have a black background in the heavy areas of battle worn. I know you say lighter is better but I don’t want the white back ground. Just wanna make sure I’m goin in the right direction before I start spraying.
Thanks for all the videos and info. Love watch in the videos and learning. My dad and I are gonna start doin our own Ceracaoting and I’m using your videos as a guide.
It doesn't need a base. The purple is the base, 1 mil, then tack and spray black over that. I'd do the acetone battle wear over that. Check out our video with the rusted iron look, and it explains it pretty well.
Thank you very much your help is greatly appreciated. Your videos are great!!!
Absolutely!
Great work man. Have you tried using a lighter color like white or silver to "highlight" some of the ridges? I've had some success using a sponge to dab a little light color in spots. It gives it the look of being worn through to the steel.
Yep. This is one of our older videos. I tend to acetone battle wear everything lately. What I do when I want just a little of the lighter color to come through is, I use it as the base, then rub each color with acetone as I go along. That lets me just have the lighter color show where I want it.
Are you oven curing the base coat first or just dry? And if Soo what is the dry time?
You have to tack it out at 180 degrees. There is no set time, it's a feel.
Do you heat all the different parts together? The plastic stock and grip with the metal frame? If so at what temp as cerakote says to cure plastics at much lower temps. Thanks
Depends. When I'm doing a stencil pattern, I'll lay the base coat down on everything, then bake it for 8-15 depending on the type of surface, just to get it tack free. I'll then reassemble the gun, and complete the stencil pattern. After it's done, you have a couple of options. You can put it in the oven for about 15 minutes to get it tack free, take it out and let it cool, the disassemble it. You'd then bake your polymer at 180 for 2 hours. Once it's done, you can then pop the metal in at 300 for 1 hour.
Or, you can just bake the whole thing for about 2.5 hrs at 180. I've never had an issue doing that, plus I clear coat almost everything.
Instead of black, could you use a brown to get a sepia dirty look instead?
absolutely!
By chance do you have any Copper/brass and Tungsten/titanium combinations?
I doubt it, but there will be abunch on the Cerakote gallery.
"A Grayy......Gooo" Haha that made my night
Lol
What is your gear set up Like? I.e curing oven, air compressor, solvent tank, blasting station so on and so forth.
We have a video of our shop on our channel.
does cerrakote have a thinner for diluting it during application ?
I'd have to say no. They won't release the solvent that they use. I've heard about people trying acetone, but I wouldn't suggest it. The problem is how much? Too much and it's too thin (not the correct coverage). Not enough and it still doesn't spray correctly. We tend to stock the colors that we know we use consistently, so it's really never an issue.
I like to use the method you showed in a different video where you cure the second coat for 3 minutes and then wipe with a rag and acitone.
We do too. Acetone battle wear gives you more control, in my opinion. This video is pretty old, and pre-dates the acetone battle wear technique.
So I cerakoted some parts in patriot brown and am thinking I’d like some graphite black over to give a slight battleworn look. I know the contrast won’t be great but I want it to be subtle. My question is you mentioned in your two tone video something about curing parts too much won’t allow new colors to adhere properly, so my question is will it be ok to do a quick wipe down with a degreaser and do a light coat of graphite black over top? Or will I run into some adhesion issues? Thanks for all your help!
If the base coat is fully cured, it won't adhere.
Just throwing this out there, suppose someone wanted the “Battleworn” coat to be say a polar blue? How would you go about that? Cause you know if you mist that color, it will be rough. 🤔
Just go heavy enough to be smooth, then remove as much as you needed to for the look you need. With that color, I'd probably do acetone battle wear instead of scotch brite.
@@BransonCerakote thanks for the reply!
So you can do the bake at 180 for two hours does The firearm have to be taken apart to do the bait for metal and polymer any more than the two hour bake after the coating is complete?
Tack it for the last time at 180 with the gun mocked up. Once it's tacked, take the metal out, and finish baking the poly for two hours at 180. Once that's done, take the poly out, run the oven up to 250, and bake the metal for 2 hours.
@@BransonCerakote awesome thanks for the help as usual
@@corddwigans Any time.
So the plastic parts are fine in the oven? I’ve always taken them off cuz though it would ruin them
Poly bakes at 180 for two hours.
Can polymer parts or plastic in general be cerakoted? What temperature is required in the oven?
Polymer yes. Plastic, most of the time. Some plastics have a high petroleum content, and the coating fails. We bake all polymer at 180. Most plastic can handle 180, but if we aren't sure, we go 150, which is the minimum we'd recommend.
@@BransonCerakote I really appreciate your answer. I am somewhat desperately searching for a rugged coating that will not simply come off due to contact with skin oils. I've seen simple skin contact ruin so many different paint coatings...
I will look into Cerakote some more. Thanks again!
@@deezeemb We handle things without gloves after degreasing every day, and have never had adhesion issues. As long as your hands are clean, it just doesn't seem to be an issue.
Does the gun you use in this video for the black also have a .8 needle size? I find it’s hard to find some hvlp guns with .8 needle tip sizes.
I don't know. That gun is long gone. I do know most of the cheap guns are anywhere between 1.5 and 2. I normally only use them for microslick or clear coat, so they don't last very long. I did just order a bunch of them off of ebay with 1.25 needles, which is fine with the clear and micro.
I'm looking to coat rims, and internal and external engine components. Where is a good place to buy this stuff. I think I like this better than powder coat.
Cerakote.com.
I tried your second technique about a week ago and messed it up.
I put the second coat on too heavy-almost a full coat. The sides came out ok when I rubbed them but the corners went down to bare metal. I'm guessing I didn't heat the first coat long enough? Any thoughts? Thanks
Possibly, but if I had to guess I'd say your black was too hard. You have to take it out right when it's at the point of being tack free. Sometimes 30 seconds too much is too much.
How many ml’s basecoat for an AR. Would you suggest.
We generally mix 72-96, depending on how many accessories/mags we are doing. Just the complete AR itself, 72.
Thank you John, i need to try this out :)
Let us know how it turns out for you. We have created a customer gallery on our website. Email us a pic if you'd like at BransonCerakote@yahoo.com.
For sure John :)
For the base colors, where do you normally have the fluid control , fan, and air set?
I never touch the air knob on the gun. I run my pressure at a valve on the air pipe. I spray at 20 psi. (Elite and clear are different)
The fan is either all the way closed for inside areas, or 6 inches for the all over coats.
Volume is different with every color.
How do you dual color a longer hand guard. Light color inside, dark outside?
The most surefire way we've found is to coat the outside first, air cure, tack. once it's cool, completely mask the outside with high heat tape, and cut out all the windows with an exacto. Once thats done, set the HVLP up to do tight spaces (fan closed, volume where it needs to be), and carefully spray in from both ends. Air cure, tack, remove tape, hard bake.
That black and red AR is bad ass!
Thank you sir. It's just battle worn with different colors. Use the same technique with the scotch bride pad, and you should be able to recreate it.
That customer actually came back in several months later with a different hand guard, and we were able to match it perfectly.
I'm about to tackle this type of project on my current build. (light bronze and dark bronze) However, I'm looking for more of an antiqued look.. basically no scratches. Gonna to some test parts but I was thinking the following: Tack 6 min after the dark (thin) coat then rub with FINE (grey) scotch brite to get to the lighter bronze base? Just thought I'd ask a professional's opinion, thanks.
Check out our certified applicator wall hanger video. It does a pretty good job of showing the acetone battle worn technique. If you have any questions after, shoot me a call.
@@BransonCerakote Thanks for the reply! Just watched the vid. Awesome idea! EXACTLY the color flow I'm looking for. By the way, I assume the oven should already be at the recommended temperature when putting parts in to tack or full bake. Is this correct?
@@benclinkbc Yep. We fire our oven up at least 30 minutes prior. It only takes about 5 to come to temp, but it seems to do better when it's had time to heat soak.
Awesome, thanks I've been looking for ways to do it. I've actually started #cerakoting my own, from your videos, very well done. Question: can I do the battle worn look on a firearm I've already cerakoted? Or do I have to start over..
You have to start over. Cerakote will not stick to fully cured Cerakote.
@@BransonCerakote thank you
Great video, thanks so much for putting this up!
Absolutely, thanks for watching!
Thank you for the video! For a 1911, one overspraying could result... problems to reassembly the gun?
Great video. Question, during research its recommended to use a .8mm spray tip. How much difference o
Would a 1mm tip really make
I've used both, and there's a bit of a difference. However, it all comes down to practice. As long as you are comfortable with your equipment, it doesn't matter too much. Some colors (white, yellow, etc) do spray better with the .8.
Branson Cerakote thank you! I'm going to do some small projects before I get into the real thing
I did my own projects for 6 months before I worked on customer guns. Practice will get you comfortable.
Hey buddy, I would like your take on Gun Kote. My Name is Dave and my business is D & J Firearms Specialist Inc. I do custom build AR style pistol and rifles. I started doing gun kote and I like it better then Cerakote. I would like to here your opinion. Thank You, Dave
I've never sprayed it personally, but we have removed it from a few guns over the years from people who weren't crazy about it. I'm a believer in Cerakote, but that doesn't mean the others aren't good.
Brother.... THANK YOU!!! I've been trying to figure out the splatter pattern for a while now! GREATLY appreciate the video. I would love to see any thing you can show! I've been cerakoting for about a year now and I am craving to learn as much as I can, I've even making my own stencils and trying out new things. I would love if we could exchange some emails because I have a little bit different method for Battle worn that looks amazing with burnt bronze and graphite black. Again brother great video and I can't wait to see more!
Absolutely. Thank you for watching.
Email anytime, BransonCerakote@Yahoo.Com. I'm always interested in hearing about new techniques.
Thanks! I've always done a small amount on a toothrush and used my thumb to "spray" it off the bristles!
Cool technique! Thanks for sharing.
I have a question. When doing the scuff method. You bake it to get it tack free on base coat when u do the second color, do you spray it then tack free it then scuff or spray then let sit 15 min the scuff then bake? This is for h series thanks in advance
You can do it either way, however they both look different. Tacking it before you scotch write it gives it a scratched up look. Doing it still wet gives it sort of a grain, almost like a wood grain look.
Branson Cerakote thank you for the fast replies your vidoes are awesome keep doing what your doing.
@@mochoa7211 Glad to help!
What time and temp will u bake that at with the grip and stock on? Thanks
Once the final color goes on, we bake everything at 180 for about 15 minutes to get it tacked out. We then remove the metal from the poly, and continue to bake the poly for 2 hours at 180. After that's done, we remove the poly and put the metal back in. Run the oven up to 250 and bake the metal for 2 hours.
@@BransonCerakote thank you! Just purchased some stencils from you and looking forward to trying this out.
@@bmbertges Glad to help. Thank you for your business.
I'm getting a 12 color pint kit and I was wondering your opinion on color choices so far I'm getting 4 of the elite colors and crushed silver bright nickel and tungsten have you used these silver colors b4 and do you think it's worth getting three similar colors? So far I've only used black graphite but looking at other colors wanted your professional opinion was also thinking zombie green just for giggles a pink red and burnt bronze and in the elite colors sand,fde, midnight, and the new m17 tan anything you recommend for the others ?
You'll use more burnt bronze and graphite than anything else. And of course the ever boring FDE, lol. I mix burnt bronze with a lot of other colors to end up with custom shades. Burnt bronze and safety orange in different ratios gives you some cool copper/burnt orange colors. Don't order more than one shade of black, honestly they are all pretty much the same. I rarely use pink or zombie. I seem to be doing a lot of tattered flags, so NRA blue, S&W red, and Snow white seem to always be in my fridge. Camo shades, browns and greens are always good to have. I always keep FDE, Forest Green, and Sage in the shop. Hope this helps.
Branson Cerakote yes it does thanks for your help
Branson Cerakote - i noticed you said fridge. I've been using a small mini fridge and keep the setting fairly high (so it doesnt freeze). Do you think this helps extend shelf life??
Do you use the "acetone wipe" technique after spraying somelike like armor black over a basecoat? I've heard about this technique but I cant find any videos or write ups about it. From what I've been told, after the top coat is flash cured you take acetone on a rag and wipe areas to give it an antique look. Any info on this is greatly appreciated.
Never heard of it, but I have a battle worn project coming up this week. I'll give it a try, and see how it turns out.
I sent a couple of slides out for machining, and should have them back by friday. I'm going to Battlewear one of them in a rusted iron look.
Ok, thanks. You do great work sir.
Thank you.
I use acetone on white scotchbrite on a flash cured topcoat. If you cure the topcoat for more than 11 minutes at 185, then you'll never get it off. LOL. I like the white scotchbrite for this because it won't blow through the base color.
So I noticed you have the rifle put together when you do the battle worn finish. Do you flash cure and then assemble the upper lower and rail to spray the battle worn part
Yep. I spray the base coat on with everything disassembled. Once they have air cured for the 8-10, tacked for 8 or so at 180, and cooled, I re-assemble everything. That allows you to have a seamless pattern.
What is the mixture ratio when you spray the battle worn coat
We mix everything at 12:1.
Is it possible to do a battle worn look if the first color is fully cured?
No. Cerakote doesn't stick to fully cured Cerakote. It will eventually flake off.
@@BransonCerakote cool thanks. I am building an ar and want to do a custom cerakote job but the part I want to add a color too is already cerakoted white
@@braxtonfillerup7937 No worries. Just sand it down, and start over.
Where is your shop located? I want to send my CZ scorpion to you for the white battleworn look
We are in Branson, MO. Our contact info and price list is on our web page, BransonCerakote.Com.
Good video, thank you for the info
Glad to help!
what's better to use, HVLP or Airless to apply Cerakote?
The best option is the Iwata LPH80. I've never heard of anyone using airless.
@@BransonCerakote airless is better since you don't have to dilute it or use solvent or whatever
@@elcolin_ The solvent is already in the Cerakote from the factory.
So I want to a battleworn camo, but I thought maybe a reverse camo with lighter color stacked on a darker 2nd coat. My base is silver, battle worn black on top. The camo color choices would be fde, o.d green, forest green, brown. Sounds a bit unconventional I know. I'd love to see an example or for your opinion. Thanks
There aren't really any wrong answers. Camo has begun to swing from traditional, to sort of a modern flare, with wilder colors.
I'd steer away from FDE and Forrest. They are really close in warmth, and tend to wash each other out from a few feet away. You may want to consider Noveske green, and Patriot brown.
Awesome
Would the graphite go good with the chocolate brown? Or should I go with a different distress color?
The bigger the variance in the two colors, the better the effect. I doubt you'd really be able to see it with chocolate brown.
I've never really had good luck using a dark base and lighter battle worn top color, but I've honestly not gone back and messed with it in a long time.
Branson Cerakote I'm really hooked on the chocolate brown. But I want the distressed look to it.
The only thing I could recommend would be to maybe spray something like sage or verde as a base coat, tack it, then the chocolate over top as a fairly complete coat. Tack that, then scotch bride pad the heck out of it. You'd sort of be doing it in reverse, and you'd have to be careful, but it may work. I did a battle worn red and black AR like that.
I have a problem with this effect, the top coat is very weak and the pattern becomes more intense with the use, do you recomend me to clear coat it for avoid that? What mix ratio do you recomend me for the best adesion between the two colors? Thanks in advance
I mix everything at 12:1. It's the most durable ratio. I also clear coat around 85% of the projects I do in the shop.
I may be misunderstanding what you mean by very weak and more intense. Once you finish the effect, get it to where you want it so to speak, and hard bake it, it shouldn't change.
Branson Cerakote I mean that the black pells off very easy with my nail or with normal use after baking it, i will try the low gloss armor clear coat but im afraid that is not matte enough for the look im trying to get. I mix 12/1 and cure it at 300f 1 hour i dont know if im doing something wrong or its normal that the battleworn tends to distress more with normal use
Branson Cerakote sorry for my english, is not my native language
Branson Cerakote i dont know if it matters but im painting over berilium copper
It shouldn't flake off unless you are full curing you're base coat first. That's the only thing I can think of that will lead to a failure to adhere between the two colors.
Other than that, give me a call when you have some time and we can try to diagnose it further.
When you do stencils, what do you do with the build up of Cerakote around the edges of the stencil. I have tried clear and wet sand but I just don't like that look.
Not sure exactly what you are having an issue with. Can you email me at BransonCerakote@yahoo.com?
Branson Cerakote if I understood the question he mentioned when he removes his stencil there is I high spot around where the stencil was from the paint build up and there is now a low spot where the stencil was when the vinyl was removed, As if there was to much coating instead of a smooth transition between the logo and coating?
Ok. Thats an issue with applying the follow on coats too heavy. The base coat is the only one that needs to be the .5 to 1 mil thickness. Every coat after that only needs to be heavy enough to cover the coat beneath it. With Cerakote, it doesn't take much. It may not look like it's covering when it's wet, but it will. Another trick for patterns like multicam, that have 5+ colors, is to use some male stencils and some female. It takes much longer, but it will cut down on the buildup.
Love the vid ... thanks!
Glad to help.
great video. make more!
Sure will. We have 8 or 9 done. Just waiting on editing. Thanks for watching!
Any tricks to getting the inside of the handguard?
Dial the cone down, and float it in from both ends. The rest gets coated from what goes in through the key holes.
Hey Sir, can you add your website to your video description and RUclips home page. People like myself will always refer to the video description for any website site promoted in the video, and because I am to lazy to type it out.
Absolutely. I'll knock those out today.
Could you make a video of how to do battle worn with a two tone. Doing a gold and black and trying to figure it out
Do you mean two tone underneath the black battle wear, or using those two colors?
@@BransonCerakote under like a pattern scheme of two colors like camo for example
@@unknownm8569 You'd just spray your basecoat, air cure, tack. Let it cool, spray another color so that the surface is blended about 50/50 (honestly I'd do at least three colors). Air cure, tack, cool. Spray black, air cure, tack until sticky, not all the way tacked out. Hang it on a rack and gently wipe through the black with acetone on a tshirt until you get the look you want. Put it back in and bake hard.
We'll put that on the list to do a video. It will probably be a while. We are finishing up content for a new website, and it's pushed youtube content to the side a bit.
@@BransonCerakote thank you can I trouble you for one more nugget of knowledge. Can you cerakote paint on titanium nitride finishes?
@@unknownm8569 You can because you sand it down to bare metal, and coat like normal. Just a note, if it's a rifle bolt or pistol barrel, don't coat them with H series.
Can you show a good technique for getting a metallic (like titanium) over another color ie bright purple.
Are you talking about battlewearing titanium over purple?
@@BransonCerakote more so just a dusting of metallic over the purple, just to give the purple that metallic flake look. I've tried mixing bright purple and titanium, looked amazing....baked out brown.
@@mt10fullsend78 What temp did you bake it at?
@@BransonCerakote 300f for 1 hour
@@mt10fullsend78 That's your issue. Max temp for the purple is 250. Go 250 for 2 hours and you'll be good to go. Cerakote has tech sheets with max temp for all the colors on the resource page.
Try four different colors speckled onto a base color and it looks like granite -- cool technique for a marble granite look
We've done that before to get the galaxy look.
I appreciate all your tutorials. I would like to learn how you do brush camo. Great work!
If you mean putting the Cerakote on with a brush, I've never found a way that works.
I think he means like stenciling natural brush onto a rifle using cerakote
any tips on avoiding dry spray when applying cerakote so light for this effect? i tried it and it came out rough almost like sandpaper
You may be too far away from the surface. The way to get it light is to dial the volume down, and spray the way you would regularly. If you try to "ease into" the trigger, you end up with some dry spray because you get too much air and not enough coating. I always adjust on a piece of butcher block before spraying on the surface to make sure I'm going to get what I need.
If that isn't what happened, feel free to give me a call. Our contact info is on our web page.
how do you test for tack without messing up the finish?
Touch it somewhere where it won't matter. Inside of the frame, inside of the mag well, etc. A lot of it is just practice. I can usually tell within a minute or so just by looking at it.
Can you do a cerakote bluing, that high gloss and slick looking.
The microslick isn't ceramic. It's a teflon based coating that's not meant for external parts.
Awesome info thanks! Do I need an FFL if i were to paint a gun for someone else??
If you are charging money, then the answer is yes. We do enough transfers to cover the cost of our FFL.
Branson Cerakote ok awesome, would I need a dealer FFL or a manufacturer one?
I always recommend the 07. With AR builds being so popular, an 07 makes your life a lot easier.
Branson Cerakote Ok thanks!!!
@@BransonCerakote
I'm confused. Is an FFL required just to paint someone else's firearm?
I’d love to see the “brushed” antique copper look if you’ve done that
Copper is a tough one. Same technique, just substitute colors. I'll put it on the list.
@@BransonCerakote did you get one of these done yet? Doing one called little liberty that's going to have petina like the statue of liberty about halfway through it's transition. Would love tips on the green for small sections and cracks
@@Chubbza5 I haven't done the video yet, but it's pretty easy now that Cerakote came out with copper. The tarnish is usually just 8 mil of Robins Egg and 4 mil of Zombie. Spray it first, air cure, tack. Let it cool, spray the copper, air cure, partially tack (Get it sticky not dry). Gently rub through the copper in the places you want the tarnish to show through, then when it looks the way you want it to, bake it hard.
Can you do a fade technique I want to do a ar that fades from od green to fde
Absolutely. Base coat the entire gun in whatever color you want, air cure, tack, cool. Take the second color and spray towards where you want them to fade, creating a line. Go back and readjust the volume to be lighter, and airbrush the edge to fade the two layers together. Air cure, tack, final bake, done.
@@BransonCerakote appreciate the advice! 🙏🏾🙏🏾🙏🏾
@@KayoMonei Glad to help.
Can you do it in wood grain on a ar
You probably could. It would all depend on colors.
How did you do the red and black battle worn look?
Just lay a base of red, tack it out in the oven, then lightly spray it with black. Tack that, and scuff it with a scotch brite pad.
Awesome. Ty.
Sure thing. This technique works with any base color. The only thing to keep in mind is that the lighter the base coat, the more dramatic the end effect will be.
Can this work with armor
I haven't sprayed armor black in years, but it should. Black is black.
What kind of oven do you use
It's a custom built oven. I would not go through the company I used.
Jim from Burnett electric in Reno is supposed to be building better ones than I have.
@@BransonCerakote did you go with Burnett? They’re local for me just seeing if I should contact them
@@vetmecharms I'm not sure if he ever started building them, but if he did, I could recommend him Jim and Jessica are solid people.I'd give them a shout. Even if they aren't building them, he's a solid dude.
I would love to see a no heat cerakote option for a video
I'm actually filming a whole series in the evenings this week. I'm going to be doing a helmet, tac vest, ACOG, laser flashlight, and a bunch of nylon in C series. I'm also going to be doing a handgun and a rifle in H. All of the stuff will be with our new stencil pattern we call "Tablerock Camo". It will hopefully be up next week.
Until then, spraying C is no different that H except there's obviously no oven cure. The only difference is it takes about 30-45 minutes to tac it out on the rack between coats, and you need to wait about 24 hours after the final coat to reassemble.
Any C series videos?
I honestly don't think we do. We haven't sprayed it in years. Everything is the same except no hardener, and no baking.
can you show a video of doing burnt bronze distressed
It doesn't distress very well. When you use two dark colors, you really can't see the effect.
I can put it on the list tho.
That's funny, we Battleforge burnt bronze all the time with no issue. You must be doing something wrong. www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/gallery/?tab=newest&orderby=newest&htids=5773%2C1774
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"make sure to blow it off with an airgun" blows on it with his mouth... lol
Lol! Do as I say...... Good thing this was a prop.
John the videos are great! Bullseye Cerakote Goose Creek SC
Thank you sir!
Thanks
Absolutely!
Whats tac free mean
When you bake Cerakote, it goes from wet to tacky (sticky) to tack free (fry, not sticky, tacked out) in the oven. If you are doing multiple layers, you need to take it out as close to the tack free point as possible so that it doesn't get too hard.
@@BransonCerakote thank you sensei
@@Silvermeow Any time, lol.
Why would my green under my black turn brown?!?
Normally it's either too hot, or no circulating fan.
Holding your burnt bronze ar as he says don’t use burnt bronze lol 😅
Lol. It will work if you use one of the darker bronzes over top.
Branson Cerakote haha that’s what I did and it came out good. I just happened to watch your video shortly after painting.
@@brandons2079 Sweet!