Knowing that this circuit is ground-side switched, I believe it is acceptable to simply t-pin the black (ground) wire with the pressure switch connected, then connect a lead to this t-pin and chassis ground with the engine running. If the switch is working, you should see a slight increase in RPM. This way, you don't need the extra steps of t-pinning the power wire (green) or locking the steering wheel to either side.
Resistance measurements are not as useful as most people think they are. Since the circuit isn't powered up (loaded) when taking a resistance reading a bad power or ground can actually check out fine when in reality a high resistance connection exists. Whenever testing for voltage drop it must be with the circuit under test fully loaded.
I recently replaced my 03 MDX pressure switch. Atfer that I measured black wire. it gave me around 8.0V when it was unpluged and went from 0 to around 8.0V when pluged in engine running locked to locked. The battery was fully charged but I didn't get 12V+. Does that mean PCM is bad.
Honda's to this day still use this pressure switch design. It's simple, inexpensive, and it works. Which is probably the reason they didn't change it. If you're referring to electric power steering systems they work on a totally different principle.
When you tested it with the t-pin along side the black wire, you put the red lead in contact with the t-pin and the black lead on the engine block. After you got that reading you put the t-pin along side the green wire and said that you had the red lead on the ground for the first test and that you were going to switch them around and put the red lead in contact with the pin. You had it that way on the first test. When did you switch them and put the red on ground and which way is it suppose to be. I want to test mine.
+Terri MacFarlane It doesn't matter which multimeter lead goes to what point. If they are reversed the meter will indicate a negative voltage with a - on the display otherwise the reading will be the same.
Great explanation - you have really helped me keep my older Honda’s running - And taught me some car maintenance theory along the way
Knowing that this circuit is ground-side switched, I believe it is acceptable to simply t-pin the black (ground) wire with the pressure switch connected, then connect a lead to this t-pin and chassis ground with the engine running. If the switch is working, you should see a slight increase in RPM. This way, you don't need the extra steps of t-pinning the power wire (green) or locking the steering wheel to either side.
So if my car stalls on idle while moving the steering wheel to a lock position should I clean the connectors or buy a new switch?
Excellent video, thanks
Could you troubleshoot this by unplugging the connector and test-driving, to compare the behavior of the car with/without the switch?
Did you try that ?
im kind of curious myself.
Great video. What year and model is this Honda?
A 97 I think this video was filmed awhile ago.
Couldn't you switch your meter to ohms and test the ground side?
Resistance measurements are not as useful as most people think they are. Since the circuit isn't powered up (loaded) when taking a resistance reading a bad power or ground can actually check out fine when in reality a high resistance connection exists.
Whenever testing for voltage drop it must be with the circuit under test fully loaded.
The current draw of the circuit has to be considered then. A 100ma draw will give 10 times the voltage indication of a 10ma draw.
how do you plug in a Power steering pressure switch connector?
you have diagrams of connection of the pressure control device of the power steering??? thanks
I recently replaced my 03 MDX pressure switch. Atfer that I measured black wire. it gave me around 8.0V when it was unpluged and went from 0 to around 8.0V when pluged in engine running locked to locked. The battery was fully charged but I didn't get 12V+. Does that mean PCM is bad.
good question. I hope I don't run into the same issue.
Nice way to test this. I presume modern vehicles are electrically assisted when on full lock?
Honda's to this day still use this pressure switch design. It's simple, inexpensive, and it works. Which is probably the reason they didn't change it.
If you're referring to electric power steering systems they work on a totally different principle.
no matter what my ground never jumps up when testing it with t pin
When you tested it with the t-pin along side the black wire, you put the red lead in contact with the t-pin and the black lead on the engine block. After you got that reading you put the t-pin along side the green wire and said that you had the red lead on the ground for the first test and that you were going to switch them around and put the red lead in contact with the pin. You had it that way on the first test. When did you switch them and put the red on ground and which way is it suppose to be. I want to test mine.
+Terri MacFarlane It doesn't matter which multimeter lead goes to what point. If they are reversed the meter will indicate a negative voltage with a - on the display otherwise the reading will be the same.
can you just pull them apart?
Press the release tab at the back of the connector and pull it out.
Cambiar sensor de presión de stering honda civic 2010 eso no son los modelos