right? i just shifted from crawlers to prerunner, im a fabricator, and i can build a pretty sick complete rock slayer for under 10k, in the prerunner world that barely covers front sus, but ....going fast is sooooo worth it, you can only crawl for so long.
My build was 57k but all the best parts. Shop labor cost $170 an hour. 43,000 in parts with no price. hikes. Just look at my picture . I've done more since then. I'm also going to get more triple bypasses to put behind the coilovers in the front for dual suspension. First generation Sequoia..
@@SnowboundCustoms update 63 k 48 k in parts LOL. I'm actually thinking about running a bar into the cab to join the shocks and doing a bar over my engine. So I can jump the sh*@ out of it LOL and get longer travel .. it will be a true PreRunner then 🤪
I've had my king bump stops for over a year and I still haven't installed them LOL. But I got a friend that used to work at the shop I was going to he is actually their best that they forced into quitting. But total chaos sends him all their customers because they know he'll do it right. He's going to French them into the frame so they will be embedded into the frame instead of having a bracket.. his name is Bobby. Red or Dead Fabrication.
I raised my rear shock mounts . It wasmt to hard . I bought 100 mm steel pipe . Capped the top and put a hole in it for the shock bolt . Then I drilled a hole in the original shock mount using a 100 mm hole saw . Then you just push the new mount up and weld it in. I made a mistake of tacking it while it was on the lift which ment the new mount angle was wrong. Only tack it when the wheels are on the ground .
Also like any vehicle. If your gonna be jumping you need frane reinforcements and you should run a roll cage. No vehicle is meant to jump from the factory and you will crack your body and bend your frame. Dont forget you should run an axle truss too.
Absolutely! That’s the best thing to do, especially if you’re new to the hobby. I would only invest money into it once you’ve seen that it’s something you enjoy
I agree with this 💯. A lot of people don’t realize how capable their vehicle is in stock form or with very minor mods. Don’t get me wrong I love everything modified but you don’t need this or that to get out there. Maintenance is way more important than mods IMO.
What is the wheel mounting surface width of the front end? Also, why long travel over sas? BTW, awesome rig! Thanks for all you do to continue to make this vehicle platform better.
It’s 69” wheel mount surface width. Stock is 60”. And great question! This vehicle gets driven a LOT and I frequently have my family in it. I needed it to perform great on the highway and on long road trips. I absolutely want a SAS rig in the future, but that will only be on a dedicated crawler
long travel is for hauling ass, i have a 83 toy on superduty axles, and i have a 97 taco with a total chaos long trav setup, they are two different rigs for different purposes, i built my 83 for under 5k, my 97 is up around 10k in sus alone and im a fabricator with a big shop, superduty toyotas are about 1/8 of the cost of a long travel build
You don’t think it would’ve been cheaper to just throw a Dana up front & in the back? Or did you actually want to just build a long travel build for hauling ass
This vehicle specifically will always be IFS. I do want to build a SAS taco one day! I don’t want to do it with a 4runner because it’s easier to damage the body. In terms of cost, I don’t think using a Dana 60 would’ve been cheaper. The fabbed 9 housing with axles is only $1700. After upgrading the Dana 60 to be useable, refurbishing it and removing all the old brackets, you’re at a similar cost already so I’d rather start with a brand new bare housing! The fabbed 9” housing I’m using has the Dana 60 unit hubs for a Toyota bolt pattern too
@@rO-sg5xl it has taken longer than I anticipated to get parts for the cantilever. 4WU just shipped all of the joints to me but I’m still awaiting the rest of the parts such as links and cantilever parts. Hopefully soon!
If your building your vehicle for crawling may as well do a sas but if you're hitting whoops long travel ifs is the way to go but with these prices id find a new hobby.
Damn I’ve been looking at 3rd gens I just love the look and reliability but so tempting to just buy a jeep, solid axles, $3000 for a quality suspension that will have way more flex..decisions decisions
It really just depends on what your uses are in my opinion! Both can be equally expensive. SAS for rocks and LT for speed. A lot of people get LT for rocks because they thinks it’s cheaper unfortunately
couldn't disagree with the labor rates more.. I had a shop build my entire vehicle lots of fab work on my 4runner but not one shop I know of is 100hr.. cheapest i used was 185hr. mine sits at build cost of 65K with 35K of this in labor. cool rig never the less.
I’m basing the prices on the rates I was charged. I work closely with a local shop. He charges my customers $650 labor to fully install a set of bypass shock hoops. It’s not cheap quality work either. He performs higher quality work than many of the high end shops I’ve been to. If you’d like to see a sample of his work, go watch my bypass install video or the rear wheel well tub video
@@H3y45 you always have your typical maintenance items like you would with any other car such as brakes, timing belt etc but I’ve found that they tend to just keep going, even when abused. Mine has 320k miles, my dad has one (original owner) with 410k miles and another one (also original owner) with 210k miles. Never had a catastrophic failure yet!
Remember, build to your budget! You can have more fun in a stock 4Runner than a lot of the guys building rigs that never use them. This video serves as a top end baseline of what could be done and many things can be swapped out for more budget friendly items while achieving similar results 🙌🏼 happy wheeling!
@@skwissgaar_skwigelf_kdz3251it’s a stock 3.4 it ain’t going fast anytime soon 😂. Lots of ultra 4 cars and desert runners use solid front axles and go fast lol. Guess the racers at KOH must not know something you do 💀
Great stuff man. Serious information for serious enthusiasts!
Thank you! Means a lot coming from you 🙌🏼
I build prerunners for a living. Nothing and i mean nothing about building a prerunner is cheap. Even doing the work yourself.
right? i just shifted from crawlers to prerunner, im a fabricator, and i can build a pretty sick complete rock slayer for under 10k, in the prerunner world that barely covers front sus, but ....going fast is sooooo worth it, you can only crawl for so long.
I was gunna say, few thousand? 😂 it’s 1500 for a collar lift 😂😂
Yep same with everyone trying SAS Toyota pickups for crawling lol ain’t nothing cheap when you modify it the right way.
Sheshhhh and I thought my build was expensive at $14k in parts invested. Can’t wait to see the rear end build come together, should be super sick!
I wouldn’t have been able to do this without all of my build partners! I’m very grateful for that. It should be sweet. I can’t wait either! 💪🏼
My build was 57k but all the best parts. Shop labor cost $170 an hour. 43,000 in parts with no price. hikes. Just look at my picture . I've done more since then. I'm also going to get more triple bypasses to put behind the coilovers in the front for dual suspension. First generation Sequoia..
Total chaos King front and rear Eton lockers all Coastal off-road bumpers,rock sliders 488 gears metaltech rear. And a lot of other parts.
@@SnowboundCustoms update 63 k 48 k in parts LOL. I'm actually thinking about running a bar into the cab to join the shocks and doing a bar over my engine. So I can jump the sh*@ out of it LOL and get longer travel .. it will be a true PreRunner then 🤪
SICMODS brotha! Can't wait to see the final form of your rig.
I’m knee deep in mind triple bypass all around bump stops front and rear leafs my shit puts in work
I've had my king bump stops for over a year and I still haven't installed them LOL. But I got a friend that used to work at the shop I was going to he is actually their best that they forced into quitting. But total chaos sends him all their customers because they know he'll do it right. He's going to French them into the frame so they will be embedded into the frame instead of having a bracket.. his name is Bobby. Red or Dead Fabrication.
Tie rod extenders , fiberglass fenders, custom front bumper with skid plate , $$$$$$ trd Supercharge $$$$$$
Looking forward to the rear walk around video and shake down !!!!!
Front alignment tab kit $$$$ Uni ball joint kits $$$$ upper A arm $$$$ Rear bed shock mounts $$$ Roll cage $$$$$$$
I raised my rear shock mounts . It wasmt to hard . I bought 100 mm steel pipe . Capped the top and put a hole in it for the shock bolt . Then I drilled a hole in the original shock mount using a 100 mm hole saw . Then you just push the new mount up and weld it in. I made a mistake of tacking it while it was on the lift which ment the new mount angle was wrong. Only tack it when the wheels are on the ground .
Also like any vehicle. If your gonna be jumping you need frane reinforcements and you should run a roll cage. No vehicle is meant to jump from the factory and you will crack your body and bend your frame. Dont forget you should run an axle truss too.
What I always try and tell people just run the rig stock hard have fun save the money for trips and another beater when the first one breaks
Absolutely! That’s the best thing to do, especially if you’re new to the hobby. I would only invest money into it once you’ve seen that it’s something you enjoy
I agree with this 💯. A lot of people don’t realize how capable their vehicle is in stock form or with very minor mods. Don’t get me wrong I love everything modified but you don’t need this or that to get out there. Maintenance is way more important than mods IMO.
What is the wheel mounting surface width of the front end? Also, why long travel over sas? BTW, awesome rig! Thanks for all you do to continue to make this vehicle platform better.
It’s 69” wheel mount surface width. Stock is 60”. And great question! This vehicle gets driven a LOT and I frequently have my family in it. I needed it to perform great on the highway and on long road trips. I absolutely want a SAS rig in the future, but that will only be on a dedicated crawler
You could do super duty axles for that!
long travel is for hauling ass, i have a 83 toy on superduty axles, and i have a 97 taco with a total chaos long trav setup, they are two different rigs for different purposes, i built my 83 for under 5k, my 97 is up around 10k in sus alone and im a fabricator with a big shop, superduty toyotas are about 1/8 of the cost of a long travel build
You don’t think it would’ve been cheaper to just throw a Dana up front & in the back? Or did you actually want to just build a long travel build for hauling ass
This vehicle specifically will always be IFS. I do want to build a SAS taco one day! I don’t want to do it with a 4runner because it’s easier to damage the body.
In terms of cost, I don’t think using a Dana 60 would’ve been cheaper. The fabbed 9 housing with axles is only $1700. After upgrading the Dana 60 to be useable, refurbishing it and removing all the old brackets, you’re at a similar cost already so I’d rather start with a brand new bare housing! The fabbed 9” housing I’m using has the Dana 60 unit hubs for a Toyota bolt pattern too
Right on dude, nice build 💯🤟
Got a link for that rear axle?@@SnowboundCustoms
When will the update be dropping? Looking forward to it
@@rO-sg5xl it has taken longer than I anticipated to get parts for the cantilever. 4WU just shipped all of the joints to me but I’m still awaiting the rest of the parts such as links and cantilever parts. Hopefully soon!
If your building your vehicle for crawling may as well do a sas but if you're hitting whoops long travel ifs is the way to go but with these prices id find a new hobby.
Goodness I thought i was the only one upside down in a toy 😅
And that’s how I have over 30k into a samurai.
Damn I’ve been looking at 3rd gens I just love the look and reliability but so tempting to just buy a jeep, solid axles, $3000 for a quality suspension that will have way more flex..decisions decisions
Seems like in the end just going SAS is the better route especially if doing all the work yourself.
It really just depends on what your uses are in my opinion! Both can be equally expensive. SAS for rocks and LT for speed. A lot of people get LT for rocks because they thinks it’s cheaper unfortunately
couldn't disagree with the labor rates more.. I had a shop build my entire vehicle lots of fab work on my 4runner but not one shop I know of is 100hr.. cheapest i used was 185hr. mine sits at build cost of 65K with 35K of this in labor. cool rig never the less.
I’m basing the prices on the rates I was charged. I work closely with a local shop. He charges my customers $650 labor to fully install a set of bypass shock hoops. It’s not cheap quality work either. He performs higher quality work than many of the high end shops I’ve been to. If you’d like to see a sample of his work, go watch my bypass install video or the rear wheel well tub video
How’s the maintenance on these rigs? Deciding make one a daily driver but not sure if it’s worth it
@@H3y45 you always have your typical maintenance items like you would with any other car such as brakes, timing belt etc but I’ve found that they tend to just keep going, even when abused. Mine has 320k miles, my dad has one (original owner) with 410k miles and another one (also original owner) with 210k miles. Never had a catastrophic failure yet!
What about portal axles.
Sure if you want to add another $25k on to the price 😅
Well… that’s depressing 😂
Remember, build to your budget! You can have more fun in a stock 4Runner than a lot of the guys building rigs that never use them. This video serves as a top end baseline of what could be done and many things can be swapped out for more budget friendly items while achieving similar results 🙌🏼 happy wheeling!
just goals for how to stay poor
So I could sell my 5th gen and take that money and buy a cheap 3rd or 4th gen and then long travel that
Lowball shop and labour costs.
Nice 👍🏾
That kit is worth more than that 4Runner
Yea just go SAS it will be far more capable and about 10K cheaper on 1ton axles
Capable for what tho?
people keep saying that, long travel is for going fast, sas is for going slow, how is that hard to grasp.
@@skwissgaar_skwigelf_kdz3251it’s a stock 3.4 it ain’t going fast anytime soon 😂. Lots of ultra 4 cars and desert runners use solid front axles and go fast lol. Guess the racers at KOH must not know something you do 💀
Im going sas instead
Long travel will cost $20k if done with good parts and all new parts
lol at shop rate of 100/hr
Why own a nice car if your not the one to work on it? 😂😂 it's such a easy job all you need is couple wrenches and jack stands