This is a an excellent vidrio , addresses the importance of starting a clean slate with everything not just preparing wood tops , but to lest have a clean job even with reclaim woods .
This works great with a strip of plywood. Mark the factory edge with a sharpie so you can find it later. Or better yet, have home depot rip you off a 12" piece so both edges are "factory" straight.
I had the same problem with rough edges on slightly bowed long boards. My solution was to attach the fence guide rail (square C channel) from one saw to the fence of main saw. This gave me 60 inches of straight surface for the long board to ride against. Feather boards and roller supports helped as well.
I've got some ridiculously heavy 8 foot by 2 inch by 18 inch white oak rough sawn boards I've been trying to figure out how to mill. Going to give this a try, thanks.
You can see a significant gap at 5:30. You can never really know if the 2x4 is straight. It would be better to use a factory edge of plywood or something else you know will be very straight from a mill.
This only works if the 2x4 is not bowed. Might be worth using a factory edge of a 3/4" piece of plywood and a width of eight inches. Then attach a 2 x 4 x 8" at the end of the board flush with the plywood on three sides. Next attach a 1 x 12 push block to the 2 x 4 x 8" that is flush on the table saw fence side. Use 3 x 3 x 3/4" plywood blocks to make an attachment point that is level with the top of the 2 x 4 x ?'. Use 3 x 6 x 3/4" blocks to attach the 2 x 4 to be jointed to the jointing sled.
What would you do for long twisted and bowed 2x4s/2x6s? I have a ton of boards anywhere from 8 feet to 16 feet and I want to salvage their lengths for longer uses. But the problem is most of it has a twist and alot are bowed.. what do i do?
Left the single most important part completely out. The cut will only be as straight as your 2x4. And that said, there is no such thing as a straight 2x4.
For fine furniture I would not use this technique. I agree that there is no completely straight 2x4, however, for most basic furniture pieces you can easily use this technique.
Авто/Мото
Was looking for video on how to "join" two long boards....nice demo, glad I stayed.
This is a an excellent vidrio , addresses the importance of starting a clean slate with everything not just preparing wood tops , but to lest have a clean job even with reclaim woods .
I’m going to try this tonight!
This works great with a strip of plywood. Mark the factory edge with a sharpie so you can find it later. Or better yet, have home depot rip you off a 12" piece so both edges are "factory" straight.
I had the same problem with rough edges on slightly bowed long boards. My solution was to attach the fence guide rail (square C channel) from one saw to the fence of main saw. This gave me 60 inches of straight surface for the long board to ride against. Feather boards and roller supports helped as well.
I like it good job thanks again
I've got some ridiculously heavy 8 foot by 2 inch by 18 inch white oak rough sawn boards I've been trying to figure out how to mill. Going to give this a try, thanks.
great video tim
Thank you
good stuff... thanks
You can see a significant gap at 5:30. You can never really know if the 2x4 is straight. It would be better to use a factory edge of plywood or something else you know will be very straight from a mill.
This only works if the 2x4 is not bowed.
Might be worth using a factory edge of a 3/4" piece of plywood and a width of eight inches. Then attach a 2 x 4 x 8" at the end of the board flush with the plywood on three sides. Next attach a 1 x 12 push block to the 2 x 4 x 8" that is flush on the table saw fence side. Use 3 x 3 x 3/4" plywood blocks to make an attachment point that is level with the top of the 2 x 4 x ?'. Use 3 x 6 x 3/4" blocks to attach the 2 x 4 to be jointed to the jointing sled.
I think ill do it with a straight aluminium plate
What would you do for long twisted and bowed 2x4s/2x6s? I have a ton of boards anywhere from 8 feet to 16 feet and I want to salvage their lengths for longer uses. But the problem is most of it has a twist and alot are bowed.. what do i do?
Use them for construction material. Those are no longer really good for any kind of furniture.
Or get yourself a planer
How do you know the 2x4 edge was straight?
Lay a straight edge on it or level long enough.
Left the single most important part completely out.
The cut will only be as straight as your 2x4. And that said, there is no such thing as a straight 2x4.
For fine furniture I would not use this technique. I agree that there is no completely straight 2x4, however, for most basic furniture pieces you can easily use this technique.
@@ASliceofWoodWorkshop No you cant Tim!!
Ah, those were the days: when 2x4’s were actually of some quality…
Yes, now they are bad condition
Why are you yelling?