I am experimenting with tablesaw jointing in an effort to decide which type of jig is most suitable for my needs, There will be at least one more video in this series
Great idea Blue, and just what I need to cut some oak square for a table I am making. Hell of lot of MDF dust in the shop, and you with no mask! Your lungs could be trouble later. Check out the material ...it is very toxic.
you've got it wrong mate ..... the out feed side of a jointer is set higher than in feed, so you need to add thickness to your mdf after the blade ..... this set up will make your jointed timber bowed
The riving knife sorts that out on this setup . It's the same width as the blade and the jig is 1mm from the blade creating the offset. When I make a real jig, I'll make an offset on it.
Terry is correct. The riving knife is not enough to keep your board from diving back into the fence after the blade and after the riving knife. A thin sheet of laminate or such will maintain the spacing to the edge of the fence and therefore a better joint. Good video though, I will make one.
the easiest way to fix this is to just make a cut till the end of the board ... similar to what he did for his riving knife but on the other side ... so that the in feed is lower than the out feed ... basicly just push the whole board through the blade ...
great jig, you need to account for what you are cutting off though. i would keep the riving knife off and clamp or otherwise attach a piece of Formica or something thin to the backside of the saw. otherwise, great method
More of the same comments I guess, but shouldn’t you cut the incoming side of the mdf completely, or at least some amount relative to the blade, so there’s a delta? Just thinking out loud... thanks so much for posting this video. It’s a huge help for me to conceptualize how to straighten some boards when I don’t have a jointer.
Thanks for your comment. I was going to follow up these videos once I decided on the method that suited me best but a customer traded me a jointer for some work and I no longer need to use the saw for it. With this setup , (it proved best for sawn timber) I would remove the riving knife and make a full blade width recess, then a half width run forward of the blade. When set up you would be taking half blade width passes and have a long support at the rear of the blade that is level with it.
I think you would have better results if you cleared the material in front of the blade (to be as thick as the blade) and left the material thicker behind it. That way the freshly cut wood is resting on the thicker part of the jig and you're feeding it in on a the jig. This is how jointers work so just adapt that concept into this jig and you'll have a much better time. Just a thought at least.
You are right but the purpose here was to make something quick that tests the type of jig and this fit the bill really well. During use it showed that the outfeed did need to be longer to achieve reliable results. I did get all of the boards straight and square, so it worked and would do so for anyone with a table saw with a riving knife who needed a quick solution to straightening boards.
As a professional industrial sewing machinist, I had my hands as close as 3mm to a needle moving at 4000+ times a minute. That needle was 75mm long and 2mm thick. The mechanism pulls the material and your hands towards the needle. I assure you I was operating safely and was very comfortable working so far from the blade.
That was a great Video, and you really taught me something today. You made the "Tutorial" simple and easy to follow. I have a question,...can this "Jig" be a permanent piece for future Jointing ? Would this be a good idea also, if you can construct a removable "Shim" to offset the saw blade from the Jig to 2mm, perhaps creating a slot at the top edge of the board in line with the saw blade, for easy removal of the "Shim" once the blade depth is set ?
Thanks for your kind words. You can make a more permanent fixture. Once I have explored the other tablesaw jointing methods I will make better jigs for those that are the most useful.
@@davearonow65 I made one other video showing a different method, which also worked fine. I did make a better version of this one. A customer then gave me a 6 inch jointer but it seems to taper the wood after a couple of passes. While I have been trying to fix it , I have continued to use this and the other method depending on how close to straight the piece that I am jointing is. This method suits straightish pieces and the other method suits boards that have really bad edges like live edge.
If your board is arched and you are attempting to straighten outside of the arch, how would it straight if you board is kept firmly against the fence. Would you not just be shaving a mm of the whole board? It makes sense for the inside of an arched board to me. Please fill me in if I am missing something because I would like to make a jig like this if it works.
I have used this for 2 x 4. You can't take all of the risk out of operating machinery but the saw blade is fixed in place , so as long as you take steps to make sure that your hands can't be dragged toward the blade, it is reasonably safe
This works for board faces. The only reason this isn't as good as a real jointer (other than the fact that a table saw will leave a slightly rougher finish) is the size of the table saw blade limits its capacity for jointing. With a 10" blade only 5" at most will be exposed. So you can only really joint a 5" face. Even the smallest jointers these days have 6" beds.
That happened to me on the one board that I redid. You need to make sure that the board rides straight on the riving knife. The other option is to remove the riving knife and set the blade level with the portion of the jig that is behind the blade.
@@jpthedelawarebeeman6239 That's why it didn't work. You can cut a track in front of the blade all the way and then run onto the MDF at the back of the blade, making sure that the back of the blade is level with the MDF. Buy a new riving knife, they are important in preventing kickback.
My friend is either ultra brave or foolhardy. Why? Well, he's running material through the table saw without any means of safety whatsoever. So far, I've seen his fingers so near the blade. To me, that is a recipe for disaster. The push sticks and miter gauges are right there. An ounce of prevention will always beat a pound of cure.
Thanks for whispering instead of talking, really made it easy to understand and follow along. Nothing is more creepy than a man who whispers in order to bring you closer. Ughskfhdb
Thank you for your wise and constructive critique. You surely realise that I am an amateur videographer. I got the sound edit wrong and I apologise. However I know that using the volume control does raise the sound level. An old technique that you may not have tried before deciding to insult me. I guess that shows the level of your competence at your computer and the tone of your comment shows the nature of your character
No mask/respirator while kicking MDF dust into the very enclosed space. No push stick with a blade that's fully exposed (SawStop or not). Leaving the saw running while fetching work pieces. This guy is an accident just waiting to happen. For any young, aspiring woodworkers watching... these are great examples of what NOT to do.
Thanks for your comment. My workshop is a little bit bigger than 3 double garages, so it's not enclosed. There is an extractor just behind the camera that reduces the airborne dust. I chose not to wear a respirator as I hadn't found one that didn't cause my glasses to fog up. Foggy glasses and power tools don't mix. I now have a mask that works with my glasses. The only table saw accident I have ever had was when the push stick that came with the saw slipped and dropped my hand into the side of the blade. I work alone, what accident can occur if I am away from the blade? I found the tone of your comment disrespectful , if you wish to change peoples behaviour, showing respect by leaving out phrases like "This guy is an accident waiting to happen" would give your comment more weight , as would clear constructive critique over just listing what you thought was wrong.
That's fine if you have the money and the space. I had a jointer and only used it a little. It was better than this but not a lot. When I have money for a combination jointer/thicknesser, I'll go that way
Хобби
Brilliant! Thank you 👏🌹🇦🇺✌️
Quick and DIRTY lmfao 🤣
Thanks so much for posting this! Very cool and useful :)
Excelente
Great idea Blue, and just what I need to cut some oak square for a table I am making. Hell of lot of MDF dust in the shop, and you with no mask! Your lungs could be trouble later. Check out the material ...it is very toxic.
Briliant!
Ty much😊
you've got it wrong mate ..... the out feed side of a jointer is set higher than in feed, so you need to add thickness to your mdf after the blade ..... this set up will make your jointed timber bowed
The riving knife sorts that out on this setup . It's the same width as the blade and the jig is 1mm from the blade creating the offset. When I make a real jig, I'll make an offset on it.
Terry is correct. The riving knife is not enough to keep your board from diving back into the fence after the blade and after the riving knife. A thin sheet of laminate or such will maintain the spacing to the edge of the fence and therefore a better joint. Good video though, I will make one.
the easiest way to fix this is to just make a cut till the end of the board ... similar to what he did for his riving knife but on the other side ... so that the in feed is lower than the out feed ... basicly just push the whole board through the blade ...
Where a mask u will have more health problems later .. I wear a mask good idea thank you for sharing
great jig, you need to account for what you are cutting off though. i would keep the riving knife off and clamp or otherwise attach a piece of Formica or something thin to the backside of the saw. otherwise, great method
This is the final thing needed to make this kinda jig perfect..
More of the same comments I guess, but shouldn’t you cut the incoming side of the mdf completely, or at least some amount relative to the blade, so there’s a delta? Just thinking out loud... thanks so much for posting this video. It’s a huge help for me to conceptualize how to straighten some boards when I don’t have a jointer.
Thanks for your comment. I was going to follow up these videos once I decided on the method that suited me best but a customer traded me a jointer for some work and I no longer need to use the saw for it. With this setup , (it proved best for sawn timber) I would remove the riving knife and make a full blade width recess, then a half width run forward of the blade. When set up you would be taking half blade width passes and have a long support at the rear of the blade that is level with it.
cool...
Seemed to do the trick, cheers Barry
Cheers Scott
Any improvement in the water situation?
Dry as a bone now, Townsville missed all the rain unfortunately. We have beer though ;)
Beer is probably cheaper than water
I think you would have better results if you cleared the material in front of the blade (to be as thick as the blade) and left the material thicker behind it. That way the freshly cut wood is resting on the thicker part of the jig and you're feeding it in on a the jig. This is how jointers work so just adapt that concept into this jig and you'll have a much better time. Just a thought at least.
You are right but the purpose here was to make something quick that tests the type of jig and this fit the bill really well. During use it showed that the outfeed did need to be longer to achieve reliable results. I did get all of the boards straight and square, so it worked and would do so for anyone with a table saw with a riving knife who needed a quick solution to straightening boards.
ModestMaking it would have taken 30 seconds to clear the mdf infront of the blade making the end result 100% better. But I get your point
ModestMaking I think I’m following your idea... would this work without that little knife blade thing ??
Dude! REALLY! I know must of the blade is covered and you have a saw stop, but getting your hands that close to the blade is just crazy.
As a professional industrial sewing machinist, I had my hands as close as 3mm to a needle moving at 4000+ times a minute. That needle was 75mm long and 2mm thick. The mechanism pulls the material and your hands towards the needle. I assure you I was operating safely and was very comfortable working so far from the blade.
This is a great idea. Thank you. What do you recommend for a blade ?
a tip: you can watch series on Flixzone. Been using them for watching loads of movies these days.
@Ibrahim Lionel definitely, I have been watching on Flixzone for years myself =)
That was a great Video, and you really taught me something today. You made the "Tutorial" simple and easy to follow. I have a question,...can this "Jig" be a permanent piece for future Jointing ? Would this be a good idea also, if you can construct a removable "Shim" to offset the saw blade from the Jig to 2mm, perhaps creating a slot at the top edge of the board in line with the saw blade, for easy removal of the "Shim" once the blade depth is set ?
Thanks for your kind words. You can make a more permanent fixture. Once I have explored the other tablesaw jointing methods I will make better jigs for those that are the most useful.
@@SuperiorEtchworx ok, so a year later, what other options have you found and is this still your go to method after seeing other options?
@@davearonow65 I made one other video showing a different method, which also worked fine. I did make a better version of this one. A customer then gave me a 6 inch jointer but it seems to taper the wood after a couple of passes. While I have been trying to fix it , I have continued to use this and the other method depending on how close to straight the piece that I am jointing is. This method suits straightish pieces and the other method suits boards that have really bad edges like live edge.
@@SuperiorEtchworx ok, Thanks for the quick reply.
If your board is arched and you are attempting to straighten outside of the arch, how would it straight if you board is kept firmly against the fence. Would you not just be shaving a mm of the whole board? It makes sense for the inside of an arched board to me. Please fill me in if I am missing something because I would like to make a jig like this if it works.
Hi
It works on the inside of the arch. You trim off the outside with a standard rip cut after straightening the inside of the arch.
Can this setup work with 2x4's? Also, is it possible to joint the face safely?
I have used this for 2 x 4. You can't take all of the risk out of operating machinery but the saw blade is fixed in place , so as long as you take steps to make sure that your hands can't be dragged toward the blade, it is reasonably safe
This works for board faces. The only reason this isn't as good as a real jointer (other than the fact that a table saw will leave a slightly rougher finish) is the size of the table saw blade limits its capacity for jointing. With a 10" blade only 5" at most will be exposed. So you can only really joint a 5" face. Even the smallest jointers these days have 6" beds.
What was he trying to do?
Does the riving knife keep the board from moving when going past the saw blade ? Is that what keeps the edge straight ? Thanks Good Vid
MY HOW TO'S , the riving knife really isn’t long enough. Add a slip sheet behind the riving knife to maintain distance from the fence.
What did you say?
U need a new saw bad.can i have that one lol
i just worry about his health. please put on dust mask especially when you cutting MDF indoor..
Yep and without using something to push the wood through well could get bloody
I tried to make one yesterday but for some reason I ended up with the boards high in the middle and low on both ends ?
That happened to me on the one board that I redid. You need to make sure that the board rides straight on the riving knife. The other option is to remove the riving knife and set the blade level with the portion of the jig that is behind the blade.
I don't have a knife it was missing when I bought the saw second hand
@@jpthedelawarebeeman6239 That's why it didn't work. You can cut a track in front of the blade all the way and then run onto the MDF at the back of the blade, making sure that the back of the blade is level with the MDF. Buy a new riving knife, they are important in preventing kickback.
the riving knife is an obsolete part. I might be able to find a used one not sure. Thanks Joe
JP thebeemaninDE the same thing happens to me using a jointer sled on the table saw. Not sure why, blade is parallel to fence.
What if your fence isn’t square?
Then your board won't be square...
@@LykMike thank you
My friend is either ultra brave or foolhardy. Why? Well, he's running material through the table saw without any means of safety whatsoever. So far, I've seen his fingers so near the blade. To me, that is a recipe for disaster. The push sticks and miter gauges are right there. An ounce of prevention will always beat a pound of cure.
AAAAAAAHHHHH !!!!!! LOWER THE DAMN BLADE !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I couldn't quite figure out what you were doing.
I was straightening the edges of the boards so that I could get a tight fit on the glued joints
@@SuperiorEtchworx I realized that but couldn't quite grasps all the steps. It's not important - all's good.
Great video! I hope the best for your channel. Maybe you could swing by my channel sometime. Good luck!
Thanks
I'm off to have a look now
Awesome! By the way, I subscribed. Hopefully you can do the same.😁
Great video but this is not jointing! This just a very short but normal cut againts a fence on a table saw. No jointing, just cutting.
Thanks for your comment Francois.
When I started they were not straight and they were straight when I finished, that's why I called it jointing.
1972 called..it wants it's featherboards back..Kreg,Rockler,ETC
Haha.. If I have a need , I make a solution out of what I have on hand. If the need keeps up , then I buy.
@@SuperiorEtchworxto be fair, if you're making table saw jigs, then you can probably make your own featherboards.
Thanks for whispering instead of talking, really made it easy to understand and follow along. Nothing is more creepy than a man who whispers in order to bring you closer. Ughskfhdb
Thank you for your wise and constructive critique. You surely realise that I am an amateur videographer. I got the sound edit wrong and I apologise. However I know that using the volume control does raise the sound level. An old technique that you may not have tried before deciding to insult me. I guess that shows the level of your competence at your computer and the tone of your comment shows the nature of your character
Huh? You must be dumb and deaf. No whispering at all.
Good video but very hard to hear you. Try speaking up or torn up the volume please
No mask/respirator while kicking MDF dust into the very enclosed space. No push stick with a blade that's fully exposed (SawStop or not). Leaving the saw running while fetching work pieces. This guy is an accident just waiting to happen.
For any young, aspiring woodworkers watching... these are great examples of what NOT to do.
Thanks for your comment.
My workshop is a little bit bigger than 3 double garages, so it's not enclosed. There is an extractor just behind the camera that reduces the airborne dust. I chose not to wear a respirator as I hadn't found one that didn't cause my glasses to fog up. Foggy glasses and power tools don't mix. I now have a mask that works with my glasses.
The only table saw accident I have ever had was when the push stick that came with the saw slipped and dropped my hand into the side of the blade.
I work alone, what accident can occur if I am away from the blade?
I found the tone of your comment disrespectful , if you wish to change peoples behaviour, showing respect by leaving out phrases like "This guy is an accident waiting to happen" would give your comment more weight , as would clear constructive critique over just listing what you thought was wrong.
Did you really walk away from a saw that was running and film yourself doing this?
Yep, it's a reality in many workshops. I work on my own so there is no danger to anyone.
My advice, get a jointer and quit wasting time with work arounds.
That's fine if you have the money and the space. I had a jointer and only used it a little. It was better than this but not a lot. When I have money for a combination jointer/thicknesser, I'll go that way
Bad audio. Talk too low