Save Your Cash! Say No To Buying A Jointer
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- Plans available on my website.
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I was in the middle of project and needed to joint a few boards to get ready to join them together. A jointer would be the obvious solution, but I don't have one of those. I did the next best thing. I built an easy jointer jig using leftover plywood scraps from around my shop. Getting a straight edge on your lumber opens up a world of possibilities. With this straight edge jig, I was able to buy rough cut lumber, which is typically cheaper than your S4S lumber bought at the big box stores. i'm calling it, the gateway to woodworking progression. While i think its necessary to have a planer, you can get buy with a jointer jig and planer in MOST situations. So if you have a table saw and you are looking to increase your capability, this is just one of the table saw sleds you need for your shop.
Big shout out to @WalkersWoodworks . I took a few tips from his video and they turned out to make a huge difference.
For more of my projects, merch, and plans, check out my website www.readysetbuildit.com
Tools and for this build (affiliate)
Toggle Clamps - amz.run/6XXc
Titebond Quick and Thick amz.run/6XXc
pica dry pencil - amz.run/6XXe
Sanding Blocks - amz.run/6XXf
Apron - amzn.to/4aVTl2B
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Thank you so much for watching. I do have plans available on my website if you are interested in building this jointer sled. readysetbuildit.com/plans-and-merchandise/p/h75i6egdy6wzlxuc6jo6de0yshx76n
That would work too
@@patriciamay638 right on
Great contraption and great presentation !
I totally enjoyed your relaxed (and relaxing) delivery, devoid of the usual false familiarity that i find so annoying in most how-to videos. You’ve got a new subscriber.
Thanks so much. Means a lot to me.
Good video, I liked watching you think through the build and make adjustments. That’s the “real world”. A tip I picked up that can save a lot of frustration is to flip one of the boards over before jointing it. That way if the blade isn’t perfectly vertical, you will get complimentary “angles” on the edges. For example, one will be 92 degrees, the other 88. Set them together and you won’t have a 4 degree difference on one side. Hard to explain but makes sense if you purposely tilt the blade and run two test pieces. Thanks for the nicely done video.
Thanks for watching and that makes perfect sense.
The hand tool guys do the same kind of thing. They plane both boards side by side at the same time. Any deviation from square is offset on the opposite board - therefore a perfect joint. Gotta give it up to the old timers 👍
Excellent. I will now scratch plans and save $ and space in not purchasing a jointer. Thank you from a new subscriber.
Thanks. I appreciate you. I’m glad this video helped.
What a brilliant idea! You have just save me a ton of work!! And a very little cost. I am building one immediately. A thousand thanks!!! I'm a huge fan.
That’s awesome! Thanks and happy building!
Great idea, I can hold off on the jointer for now. I think with clamps and a square I will be able to square up other pieces of questionable square edges, thank you very much.
Of course.
@ReadySetBuildIt thanks for the lesson. I have a suggestion...not sure if it will work but it popped in my mind while watching you.
What if you keep the top board with the clamps BUT didn't glue and screw it down? Insert flush permanent bolts the bottom and make grooves through the top board then add wing nuts. This should allow you to adjust for board width straight edging and also allow for making tapers!
Btw...you have a soothing voice and well spoken. Thanks for not shouting like some people or worse...no speaking! Good job!
That’s a good suggestion. I sometimes get Leary when a jig has multiple jobs, but I think it can work. I have on my to do list to build a smaller taper jig. I will probably make it similar to what you described though.
Thanks. I appreciate that. If only I could get more people to watch my videos lol.
@@ReadySetBuildIt tag me for the new jig please
Nice build. The only thing I would do differently is place the two hold downs for shorter boards toward the center of the jig. That would provide more stability since you’ll able to have the leading end of the jig on the bed of the table already against the fence.
Thanks. I might make that change if I was to make it again, but it hasn’t affected my work flow thus far
YEAH!!! Wow made it look so easy. I am from South Africa and a jointer's value is around about between 15K and 30K that is more or less between 830 and 1700K USD. I know it might sound cheap but that's for the smallest models. Thus, a lot of cash to take out for a middle class working person. Nevertheless, thank you for this jig made my life so much easier. Keep on doing the amazing job you do and once again. Thank you.
You don’t know how happy this makes me feel. I’m glad it could solve a problem for you. Thanks for watching 👍
I agree, I don't need to spend more money on a heavy piece of equipment I'll only pull out once or twice a year. I'll use my Jessem router table for a jointer.
Exactly. Spend your money where it makes the most sense. I’ll have to do a little research on routing on the jointer as I’ve never seen it.
Great job. I watched several builds for this jig. I found yours the simplest. I made it today and it's producing freaky straight boards for me. I'm making decorative items from fence pickets split down the middle then trimmed to size. They tend to warp after the split. Now I can joint them, then trim to size. Thanks.
BTW. When you cut some thin strips off and reached past the still turning blade to grab them, I shuddered. I nicked my finger once doing that. Careful, they don't grow back.
Francisco, thanks so much. I’m glad it worked out for you and that’s a great tip about saw safety. I appreciate it.
Im building one this week as soon as my toggle clamps get here. I rip down a lot of pallet wood and dont want to put my jointer in any more harm with this usually crap wood. I think I'm just going the length of my fence, maybe an inch or two longer. thanks for sharing!!
I think that’s a safe bet. That’s why I love this jig. It’s customizable to your need. Happy ripping
Thank you
I appreciate you Mark
Hey Drew, Great video! Thanks for sharing your experiences through the design process to help all of us get it right the first time. I will be making one of these this week and this exactly what I was looking for, thanks again and keep up the great work!
Pete. Thanks so much. Good luck on your build.
I've made one of these before but I did something different. I left the factory edge on the non glued side. Flush cut the glued edge first then cut down the opposite to final width. That way when cutting the glued edge, you already have a straight reference against the fence.
So we didn’t same thing in different orders.
Great job thanks.
I'm glad to see that you, like me, are going to be using a jobsite saw mostly due to room, and don't have a workshop with $100,000 worth of tools.
I will build your jig but I think I need to figure out how to build it two sided so that on one side I can do a 2"X4" and the other maybe a wider panel. I guess maybe I can just put a 3/4" spacer to hold the board off of the table.
Thanks for watching. I don’t use the miter slots for the jig, so realistically you can place a pretty wide board in it and just adjust the table saws fence accordingly. That was the versatility I was going for, but you can just the same make two sleds. They don’t take up that much space. Happy building and I’d love to see what you come up with.
This just dropped into my feed....and I'm glad it did. I got a bunch of raw edged red oak that I wanna turn into a bookshelf. I don't own a jointer and this will help me fill in that gap!! Earned a sub!!
Tom, thanks so much. Good luck on the book case.
Thank you sir for your video. I've made these before but you've shed new light on this jig.
Thanks for watching
I have a Unisaw which is getting sold-owns the garage. My replacement is the Skil TS6307-00. It is the brother of the DeWalt. Key to accuracy on job site saws is the fixtures. Make 'em well for precision work. Good job and many good builds ahead for you. I'll be with you.
Thanks so much. I appreciate you!
Nice and easy enough build thank you 🙏 ❤❤
Thanks for watching!
Awesome presentation, Drew. Thanks.
Thanks so much.
Nice jig Drew! I can’t believe how simple it looks so I’m gonna build one this weekend. What a great video! Such a simple jig that can produce so much!!
Dennis, thanks! I appreciate that. It is very simple and even more useful in the shop. I know how a jointer and I still reach for it often
Made mine slightly different. I routed a slot top and bottom so I can slide my toggle clamps forward for adjustment. My piece is probably a quarter of your length. Don t need that length.
I like it
Nice build mate, these are super useful.
Pro tip for anyone using one: place the "crowned" edge of boards outward for the first pass, so it can't try to rock against your jig. Then cut the opposite side on your second pass.
Keep up the great content!
Thanks. Great tip!
Nice video Thank you
I appreciate that. Thanks
I´ll definitely build that jig. Thanks.
Happy building. I sell plans on my website as well
Great idea, thanks. I ended up building one myself
Awesome
Thanks for the tip Drew!
I’m glad it helped
Great idea and simple to construct. Thanks
Of course. Thanks for viewing
Great video. Simple, to the point and verry, very helpful.
Thanks for watching.
This is a great jig, and a great video. The only thing I added were some pull/push blocks out of scrap (behind and inbetween the toggles) to keep the edge tight against the fence and my fingers well away from the blade. Super easy, cheap and effective jig.
Thank you. Those additions do sound like they would add value to the jigs effectiveness. I may consider adding them myself.
Can you show a video of what you're describing jack? The way the jig looks, you can make the cut without ever bringing your hands up near the blade, provided you're cutting short boards. The other thing is, it's very safe having a large heavy jig assembly to feed through the table saw, because your fingers and hands will be at least 6" away from the blade. The jig really doubles as a safety jig, for cutting narrow or very short boards that would not be easy to rip safely. The push blocks are safe, but I see people using two "chicken sticks" to push boards through, and it's a recipe for disaster.
Great video
Thanks I appreciate that
Very helpful jig, Great instructions!
I appreciate that. Thank you.
That makes sense why buy both 👍
If you have to decide based on cost the jig is the way. Now having both a jointer and a jig, I do still reach for the jig on occasion. So I can see the need for both. Situation dependent.
Thanks for showing me the way!
Thanks for watching Pete!
Very good video. Like the way you presented this it was exactly what I needed. I have a small shop with big ideas. I going to build farmhouse style passage doors. This jig will be perfect. Thanks. I look forward to more videos from you.
James. Thank you for the kind words and thank you for coming along on my journey. Good luck on your door builds. This jig should come in handy.
Thank you! Very clearly explained. I definitely have a need for this with an uneven board of Purpleheart I need to square up.
This will do it for sure. Thanks for watching
Perfect. Thanks
Thank you
Thank you!
You’re Welcome
Okay, I like your design. I see my need for one, because of you, I'll make one, thank you.
Happy to help
Just discovered your channel, this is the jig I have been looking for!
Thanks friend. I hope it helps.
Great tip and video! I will be making one of these!
Thank you. It comes in handy.
Nice job thanks !
Thanks for the watch
Thanks very much for this!
My pleasure
thanks for the tip will make me one now!!!
Awesome. Thank you
NIce job! Just what I was looking for to avoid buying that jointer (yet). Got a new subscriber looking forward to more vids!
Thanks friend.
Need .... More .... Videos .... Like .... This. 🙂
Thx.
I appreciate you. Working on them.
Nice job! I've watched several different versions of this.
Thanks Frank
Great video
Thanks
Great tip! I need one of these! Thanks!!
Thanks I’m sure you can build it from the video but I do sell plans on my website as well
Great explanation and video. Thanks!!
Thanks John
Nice work. Just before you started cutting that I was like what are you doing!!! LOL
Hopefully it came together for you
Nice Jig!
Thanks
Very nice. I was looking for something like this, and there you have it! This will my next project 🙂 Thanks!
Thank you. It’s a quick fun project.
Nice!
Thanks
Thank you sir for this video. I’m in the process of cutting some rough cut walnut and needs a straight edge. Looks simple. Can’t wait to make it happen . God bless you
Thanks so much for checking it out. It great shop jig for sure.
ready stead build it, insly spring to mind , ha ha , right after losin top tip of finger on inverted planer to try jointing as need jointing , ( its grown back .... )the table saw was makes sense , less hand hazard, but my fence is rubbish and not 90 it vears about 10 deg at kerf end , your fence looks sturdy , connects to both ends and exactly what i need, where is it bought or if came with saw , whats saw model , also im milling lumber down from the forest out back an seasoning them theem for later , so this will be usefull jig ..thanks bro
Absolutely. I have the Dewalt DWSE7491RS 10”. If you want to build this for your saw you could forgo the fence and built it with a runner. The only downside is you can only joint a certain width. With that method I would make the fence a common width of about 5-8” from blade kerf to jig wall.
Fantastic video my man! I’m making this!!!! Hope it comes out as good as yours.
Thanks friend. I know it will
the thing is flat faces. if thst bit isnt flat then ur straight edge wont always be 90 degrees. i made one of these last year and ended up buyin a jointer. anything over 6 inches though, i couldn't do so i simply discovered the circle of pros n cons lol
What bit are you referring to sir?
@@ReadySetBuildIt Must be, the face of the stock against the sled. That face should be squared to the edge that sits along the fence, before making a cut with this jig (if the goal is to edge glue 2 boards).
This jig can also be used to rip a straight line on bowed rough stock, off of which you can plane a 90 deg reference face.
Thanks for the video!
Great video!
Only thing is you made me nervous as crap with your left hand near that blade!
I have a nublet from doing that!
Thanks. You’re right, I have to be better about that.
I’ll be making this soon, thanks for the video!
Absolutely
You should put a dado blade on and run the board back and forth over a dado blade with that jig, to see if you can thickness plane warped boards? I wonder if you could just surface half the width of the board, then spin it around 180 degrees, and surface the other side with the dado blade? In the 1950's, they sold planer head assemblies for radial arm saws, and said that you could plane a board flat with a radial arm saw. The planer head is basically a very wide dado blade.
Possibly. I’m not that adventurous. I built a router sled to handle those tasks.
Good video.
Thanks Cory
Any router points you would like to share sir.
@@corym2513 just make sure you are routing in the correct direction and don’t try to get it all in one pass. Routers are dangerous, so respect it and try to be as safe as possible
Nice and simple. I’ll have to make one too!
It will never completely replace a jointer, but I’ve had countless glue ups go according to plan because of it.
Wondering how a 2x4 would fit on the jig……wold not it be too thick for that snap clamp?
Great question. It would work. The toggle clamp is adjustable. You can increase the clamp capacity for whatever you are using. Another option is to use hold down clamps instead of toggle clamps
The part I don’t get is, you left an overhang against the fence and made a cut. Was that overhang 100% straight because you made a cut referenced off the overhang and then you made another cut to get rid of the overhang…. I’m so confused. Correct me if I’m wrong but when you made your first cut using the factory edge, you ended up with three straight edges. Couldn’t you just glue the piece flush with the factory edge and avoid making the last cut? I just made some straight cuts today, I went the route of painters tape and hot glue. I like your jig and I just may make one, I have a lot of scrap wood from a remodel and I hate to throw wood out.
That’s a great question. There is no way to get the two pieces 100% in line so I used the overhang as a “reference edge”. This reference edge was also the factory edge. Using that edge assure the blade side of the jig is coplanar to the factory edge. You could stop there, but I wanted more surface area on my fence. By now ripping the reference edge using the newly cut coplanar edge, I know have two perfectly coplanar edges.
You don't need the overhang step on this build at all. A lot of channels are just remaking the same video from the original design that for some reason includes this overhang idea. The straightest rip you will ever get on that plywood is the one from the factory, and it's already on the bottom of the jig. Gluing the other factory edge over top, then doing this rip/flip/rip stuff, removes all your factory edges, and leaves you the mercy of how good your rip cut technique was.
Thanks for the advice. How do you keep your glasses from fogging up? I tried an "anti fog" pair of gogles by Dewalt but instead of fogging over, water just beads up inside
Sometimes it’s unavoidable, but I have found some success lately with a better mask. I am currently using the GVS eclipse and it sits a little tighter to my nose. It provides better protection from dust while still having a light form factor. amzn.to/41yi7S3
Thanks for making a great video. I have a question though. Complete beginner, so forgive my ignorance...why do you need a jig for this? If your blade and fence are square, can't you just shave a thin slice off like that? Please help me understand. Thanks!
Hi, No such thing as bad question. Think of your table saw fence as a reference edge. When trying to get a straight edge, the goal is to make two mirror edges so you can join them seamlessly. With a table saw fence, anything you push through it will be skewed by the imperfections of the side of the board touching the fence. The jig gives you the ability to gap your board and create a new reference edge. Once obtained, you can flip your board around and place the jointed side up against the fence to cut the other side. In a perfect world, you will be left with two parallel edges. I hope this helps.
@@ReadySetBuildIt Yes, it absolutely helps...I never thought about the imperfections of the side against the fence. Thanks for helping me understand.
Nice build. Where did you get the apron?
Thanks. I bought it on Amazon. I added a link to it in the description
I'm working with 8- 10' rough sawn lumber.
But I was wondering since you are using such small boards in this example, why couldn't you just run it up against the fence to produce that straight edge?
If jointing is your goal running it again your fence is not a straight reference edge. Meaning you cut edge won’t be as straight as possible.
Hi Drew!
I have another question:
(This is how I learn!)
I need to join 3 43” long (2 11”w and one 6”w) for a desk. Dominoes would be preferable, but $$$! I bought some dowel punches as the next best (affordable) option. Could I not run tongue and groove, like some flooring, to keep them flush?
I’m fairly new to this and each turn presents a new challenge!
Thx
@@MarkZart hi again. That’s what the community is for. This may not be the right answer, but I too wish I had a domino. Sadly I do not. I use my biscuit joiner for board alinement. It offers no strength, but will align the boards nicely. If dowels is all you had, I would go that route. With tongue and groove, I would be concerned with the possibility of imperfections when joining. Essentially ending up with inconsistent gaps along the width. If you can afford it, you can grab a really cheap biscuit joiner from your local home center. Long post to say, there are many ways and none more right than the option you have available to you at the time.
Hi Drew! Excellent how-to 👍
I’m about to give this a shot, and I have a question:
What if neither side of the board to plane is square? Am I missing something?
Thx
Hi. The key is to ensure you have a factory edge to reference. It doesn’t really work without it. I do have plans that go into a little more detail available on my website.
@@ReadySetBuildIt ok, thx. I’m using mahogany from a sawmill. No guarantees any edge is square. I suppose get as close as possible on one side using a straightedge, then muscle it manually until it’s square. Guess I’ll have to repeat that process for all 3. Might have to invest in a hand planer, but good long ones aren’t cheap. I could look for one to refurbish, but that’s an entire process with which I’m not familiar either. But, I’ll get it done 👍
The point of this job, if I'm not mistaken, is to allow you to cut irregular boards like your mahogany. You are using the factory edge from the jig as your straight edge. The edge of the board you are cutting can be as wavy as you like so long as you can clamp it securely to your jig. At least that's my understanding- I'm halfway through my jig and plan to use it on live edge maple so I'll find out soon!
@@laurasworkshop thanks. I feel like I’m missing something. One commenter asked why one cannot simply use the fence, as it’s straight. I see these jigs as merely an extension of the fence, so I’m obviously missing something important. Maybe I’m just dense. Using a jig like this will certainly give you a straight edge, but will it be square? If neither side of the roughcut is perfectly square, relative to the end, how does one tell exactly where to position the board to be cut? I’ll continue to ponder this concept; perhaps the bulb will light up.
…and, for that matter, running the edge thru a jointer (if you have one, which I don’t), you will get a straight flat edge, but it might not be square either, relative to the end.
I’m overthinking this. I’ll need to run my boards thru with this jig, then flip them over and see if any trim comes off side 2. Then I’ll have 2 straight sides. Put that on the miter saw at 90°, and I should have all 4 sides straight AND square. I’ll make it and find out!
Now I need to make a table saw sled. Maybe Drew has a video for that also 👍
Thanks for assisting me work this out in my little gecko brain!
Enjoyed your video on making a joiner jig. I like the way you make things simple I subscribed scrib3to your channel. Look forward to more videos
Thanks so much.
show!
And tell
Nicely done - I especially like that you trimmed it down to get a straight cut in 2x4. I'm trying to build a DADO jig using 1x4 that I have laying around and they are ALL bowed, even if only a tiny bit. I think I'm going to build this exact jig -- it appears to work well with narrower wood (2x4) as well as wider materials such as the hardwood you initially wanted to joint. One question... if you were to do it again, would you use the same dimensions or would you make the clamping side a bit narrower?? Many thanks - great video, Larry
Larry thanks a lot. To be honest the two changes I would make are one, make two sizes. One for small pieces and one for longer pieces. Secondly, I find the toggle adjustment to be rather time consuming at times. I would embed some t track and utilize t track hold down clamps. I think the adjustability within length is a little more versatile and obviously screwing down to the size you need takes less time than to bust out the wrench. But I use it just the same to this day the way it is. I may make one that tapers in addition to straight cuts in the future.
Great idea about using track hardware.. I JUST ordered, last night, a bunch of clamps from Amazon... enough for two jigs.. oh well, less expensive :). But I like the idea of a long and short version. Would you still keep the same size, width, for the side with the clamps? Thanks, Larry
@@EEEZSolutionS that’s great. I do like the width. I wouldn’t change that part. That’s the best thing about this jig. You can choose how wide you are comfortable with. I do have plans on my website for this jig, but I think it’s pretty self explanatory to create.
Gonna try building it this weekend...
@@EEEZSolutionS good man
can you put a t track on the top so you can use the other type of hold downs and slide them to where ever you need them instead of having to be stuck with the same distances? or you could remove them and use them on other jigs when you need to. or is there a downside to using the t track?
You can absolutely add t track instead of the toggles. It will cost a little more but the versatility can’t be matched. If you have the coin, I say go for it.
where did you get that apron? rick nice video
Thanks. I bought it on Amazon. Here’s an associate link to it. amzn.to/431T3mk
How much of an over hang is safe to have? I'm trying to decide how wide to make my jig (the bottom board) and want to be able to use it on boards ranging from 12" wide down to around 4" wide
That’s up to you. My lower board is about 4 ish inches longer than the top.
Nice job. Will the jacks work with the two by for
Thanks. Jacks?
subbed!! good video. musics good but a little loud compared to your voice
Thanks. I agree. Take a look at some of my most recent videos and let me know what you think.
@@ReadySetBuildIt making my way through all of them man. Good stuff.
@@JoeyCour thanks
safety guard?
Point guard
I think hacking your thickness planer with a sled is better than trying do do this as you are so limited on how wide of a face you can joint.
There are always many tools to get the job done. I’m glad you know which works for you.
Thickness planer “hack” doesn’t work for edge jointing, only face jointing. Two different applications. This is the correct sled for an edge joint.
4:39 I was about to say…
Hope that is a good thing
Please do yourself one Huge favor and level up your outfeed table with your table saw, one of these days your looking at a serious trip to the hospital the way your boards are falling off and your hand on top....Just sayin.
Thanks Eric
Awesome jig! That’s going to get a lot of use for sure! Stay safe! 😃
Thanks
When I saw the thumbnail I thought someone was stealing a tablesaw but as it turned out it was yours and this is a good idea.
Now that you mention it, it does look a bit nefarious lol
Great job! Thank you !
Im glad you enjoyed the video