Glad I could help. I don't always have the money or room for the best tool. I just wanted to show that you can still get the same results without them.
Looks like a good idea. We have a bunch of rough cut pine we want to use for a floor and using our jointer, we have been making crown instead of removing them. Thank you!
I had a jointer and got rid of it. I have a couple of jointing jigs I use for smaller boards. I only do it this way on longer boards. I can get glue joints either way.
Hey Thanks for sharing this! I think I might give it a try. I've been trying to joint some 96" 2X4's with no luck. I made a jig for my table saw, but not working. Will try your method next!
Hey Robert, This was a very informative video. I learned a lot just by watching it. I understand the concept of having a longer table saw fence to strengthen long boards. But my issue is finding a "true" long straight edge. I see that you used (what looks like) a 6' Harbor Freight level to construct your long fence. Are the long Harbor Freight levels very straight? Could you also use that level against your table saw fence to joint a board that is 6' or less (as long as the board ends stayed in contact with the level throughout the entire cut? Thanks again for sharing.
Sorry it took so long to reply. I was going to shoot a video answering your question. Other people may be wondering the same thing. I just haven't had the time. Any level should be straight. If not, it should be in the trash. The concept is that the board has to be in contact the entire length with the fence and not be able to move. If the board has a curve, and the fence is not touching both ends of the board, when it is pushed through the saw it will kick the board over and bind the blade or copy the curve.
@@ShopRamblings - Thank you for your reply. No worries about the delay. I know that you're working those 12 hour shifts at your job. I look forward to seeing the video.
I am not sure if I understand what you mean. It is clamped to my fence. It is parallel to the blade. The goal is to get one straight side. Once I cut one side, I remove the auxiliary fence. Then I cut the other side like any other board.
It was over two years ago so I can't say for sure what I was thinking but most likely that I was tired of getting splinters handling the rough cut board.
Great video !! I can’t wait to see it done 👍
Glue ups are slow but it should come together fast after I have all the panels made.
Thanks for sharing this! I also have a bench top jointer and find it inadequate for edge jointing long boards. What you shared here is really helpful.
Glad it helped
Great video my guy! Thank you!
Thanks for the comment
Great idea. This will Def help with my first wood working project
Glad I could help. I don't always have the money or room for the best tool. I just wanted to show that you can still get the same results without them.
Great video , thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Looks like a good idea. We have a bunch of rough cut pine we want to use for a floor and using our jointer, we have been making crown instead of removing them. Thank you!
I had a jointer and got rid of it. I have a couple of jointing jigs I use for smaller boards. I only do it this way on longer boards. I can get glue joints either way.
Thanks! Very helpful video👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Thanks for sharing this! I think I might give it a try. I've been trying to joint some 96" 2X4's with no luck. I made a jig for my table saw, but not working. Will try your method next!
I have a couple of different ways. When one way doesn't work, I will try another.
Great tips.
Glad it was helpful!
Hey Robert, This was a very informative video. I learned a lot just by watching it. I understand the concept of having a longer table saw fence to strengthen long boards. But my issue is finding a "true" long straight edge. I see that you used (what looks like) a 6' Harbor Freight level to construct your long fence. Are the long Harbor Freight levels very straight? Could you also use that level against your table saw fence to joint a board that is 6' or less (as long as the board ends stayed in contact with the level throughout the entire cut? Thanks again for sharing.
Sorry it took so long to reply. I was going to shoot a video answering your question. Other people may be wondering the same thing. I just haven't had the time.
Any level should be straight. If not, it should be in the trash. The concept is that the board has to be in contact the entire length with the fence and not be able to move. If the board has a curve, and the fence is not touching both ends of the board, when it is pushed through the saw it will kick the board over and bind the blade or copy the curve.
@@ShopRamblings - Thank you for your reply. No worries about the delay. I know that you're working those 12 hour shifts at your job. I look forward to seeing the video.
How do you know what measurement to adjust the table saw to to get your rip cut?
Move it until it cuts all the way down the edge. If I make a cut and it doesn't make a solid cut, I move the fence and cut a little more off.
Hey nice video, but how do you move that whole 16 foot fence accurately all at once?
I am not sure if I understand what you mean. It is clamped to my fence. It is parallel to the blade. The goal is to get one straight side. Once I cut one side, I remove the auxiliary fence. Then I cut the other side like any other board.
I notice you are wearing gloves while doing the jointing. What is your thinking on deciding to do that?
It was over two years ago so I can't say for sure what I was thinking but most likely that I was tired of getting splinters handling the rough cut board.
Tracksaw time... Lol
Thanks for the info. You are right. That's how I did it yesterday. Some people don't have a track saw. This is just another ideal.