How to Crimp Connections (Butt Connectors) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2018
- In this video we go over a touchy subject when it comes to crimping connections and connecting wires. Where should you place the connector in the tool? Should you use the tooth or not? We try to go over this as thoroughly as possible in this video.
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How to Crimp Connections (Butt Connectors) | AnthonyJ350
• How to Crimp Connectio...
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I was an electrician in a major manufacturing facility for over 15 years. All 20 electricians used the tooth on crimp tools just like this for all types of Sta-Kon and terminal connectors. If you want it done right and you want it to hold and last, do it like this. The wire will fail before the connector/connection does.
Thanks for sharing!
This is a excellent video on how to properly crimp, thank you and GOD bless you.
You are very welcome
I appreciate that you're seeming to get a more reliable connection using the tooth on insulated connectors, and that the insulation doesn't seem to be damaged. However, according the major splice manufacturers, the tooth does damage the insulator and will eventually result in exposed copper over time, especially in a vibrating environment such as an engine compartment. The problem is well known enough that the FAA prohibits using the tooth on insulated butt splices and terminal connectors, as field reports have found corrosion entering into the connector at the crimp fracture, resulting in eventual failure of the connector. Only the "insulated" die in a crimper can be used on insulated connectors. See the FAA Advisory Circular 43-13.1b section 11-178. Another failure cause is insufficient crimp, so the FAA also requires the use of calibrated ratcheting crimp tools that produce a repeatable, maximum application of force with each operation.
One reason you are thinking the "nylon" insulated connectors work better with the tooth is that these may actually be shrink-wrap connectors, designed to be completed using a heat gun to shrink the tubing tightly around the wire. These come in two varieties, non-environmental and environmental, the latter of which have an internal heat-activated adhesive that blocks water. For major terminal brands, such as Gardner-Bender, Pacer Group, Thomas&Betts, and Tyco, the heat-shrink capability is indicated by translucent plastic (to let you inspect the quality of the shrink-wrap against the wire insulation). Note that cheap overseas knockoff connectors may counterfeit this appearance without having the heat-shrink capability. Because non-US manufacturers have great variability in their quality, and connector reliability is usually critical for most applications, I always stick with US manufacturers.
Soooooo do you work on cars in a high volume environment and provide an actual lifetime warranty?
I honestly solder majority of my connections and just show what works for me. I've had my daily for 12 years now and it goes through winters and summers and show what works in service.
FAA could crimp non-insulated then insulate with shrink tube with glue inside. I'm not going to act what is best for a plane. I just share what I do for the masses and what works in an automotive environment.
@@AnthonyJ350 Sorry but FAA trumps high volume auto mechanic. Their "lifetime warranty" is about your ass not meeting the ground suddenly from 20,000 feet.
So do you recommend the tooth method on shrink-wrap connectors that a softer tubing?
Thank you! I have struggled with these connections for years, never realizing that proper placement of the seam was the cause. Lots of unnecessary trial and error that I will no longer waste time and material with.
Awesome! Also consider soldering in a lot of applications. That is my preferred method for making reliable connections ruclips.net/video/BxASFu19bLU/видео.html
Thank you! I've been searching for a video on this exact topic for a while!
Thanks for watching!
Great video! I agree, the tooth is where it's at.
Thanks! Ya I would get a lot of people outside of car audio, really criticise this method. So I figure why not just show the text book and the logic behind it.
Thank you. Finally someone with a clue.
Glad you liked the video!
That was a great instructional video covering some of the small things that are good to know.
Glad it helped!
Great video Anthony! Agreed to the using the "tooth". Invest in some QUALITY crimpers and PRACTICE with the TOOTH. Not being a mechanic by trade and only doing DIY stuff around the house can make crimping a frustrating exercise and an ART; yet, crucial that you make solid crimps every time (nobody wants a fire!). I always tape (with insulated connectors or not); thus, not overly concerned with damaging the insulation periodically with the tooth. That being said, you can even take the cheap plastic insulated connectors and produce cut-free, solidly crimped connectors. Just takes a little practice.
Thanks for sharing your experience! Ya I think people need to be a little more open minded when it comes to trying to achieving and outcome and realize there are different paths leading to it.
Great job! I was trying to figure out why my insulated connectors package showed a diagram indicating a correct crimp done with what is obviously a tooth tool. So even advised by the manufacturer. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Great job explaining and camera work!
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video I think it's a great video it really breaks it down and helps out
Glad you liked it! Needed to clarify things because a lot of people didn't understand why we use the tool the way we do.
Thank you. I was able to do it properly and it works.
That's awesome, glad it worked!
Thank you for a great informational video!
Thanks for watching!
Well done! Great tutorial
Thank you!
I learned so much from this video. Thank you so much Anthony!! i subscribed to your channel
Thanks so much for subscribing! You might like this crimping video as well ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.html
This video might help as well, it's for large gauge wires ruclips.net/video/ca37WnL6Oxo/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you so much Anthony!!
awesome vid thx and just ordered the same chanel lock crimper
It's an awesome tool
Very knowledgeable video Thank you for sharing
Thanks for watching! You'll like this video ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.html
I have one for large gauge wires as well ruclips.net/video/ca37WnL6Oxo/видео.html
Thanks for the video 👌👌
Glad you liked it.
Great video. Thank you.
You're welcome, here's a follow up video ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.html
A lot of people also like this one for large gauge wires ruclips.net/video/ca37WnL6Oxo/видео.html
Great video!
Thank you for watching!
THANK YOU!
Glad it helped!
Electrician here from the UK, never use anything but ratchet crimpers for the insulated crimps, always makes excellent joints. Rarely use non insulated crimps in smaller sizes but the bigger sizes I use a hex crimping die
Daniel Brydon I have a hydraulic crimper for large gauge wire like 4 gauge.
For smaller gauge multi strand wire we use the hand crimper you see in the video.
Mate I’m an electrician in British Columbia with a 350z in Canada it’s super common to use crimps with heat shrink. I don’t know how the price of hex crimps is there but it’s expensive as hell compared to these
AnthonyJ350 yea I’ve used barrel crimps for amp main runs but other than that it’s a waste of money plus a t&b one shot is 800$ (crimp tool for small barrel lugs)
Stuart Clingan Hmmm I try not to use crimps for high amperage applications. We'll use multiple power wires for multiple amp applications. The only crimps you'll see in those installs are the ring terminals with solder.
Thank you, great video. I've always preferred soldering but I think I'm going to start using crimping more instead, I understand it's better in general. What brand of connectors do you like most and where are they sold?
You'll want to check this video I have on crimping small wires ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.html
The Install Bay has good parts. Also at the beginning of April I'll have a video about marine grade butt connectors which you'll probably want to watch.
Awesome video! Could you throw heat shrink tube over the insulated connectors just for added security?
Oh for sure! You can use shrink tube with glue. I have a couple other videos about connections you should check out.
Excellent video! I learned a thing or three...lol.
I have been doing it wrong. Now I know how to do it the right way.
Do you recommend the Channellock 909 or the Klein Tools 1005? I need a new set of crimping pliers is why I am asking.
I really prefer the ergonomics of the Channel Lock. I've tried Klein and SnapOn and the Channel Lock feels the best to me.
New subscriber here, I was installing an aftermarket stereo yesterday and was crimping for the first time. I was wondering how exactly you're supposed to crimp and found that the tooth worked best. I guess I was doing it correctly lol
MCFriedChicken1 Yup great job. Just make sure the tooth is on the side opposite of the seam.
Great video my concern is ....what style do we use in a marine application where not breaking the insulation is crucial? They now make some butt connectors with solder inside those might be a better fit for marine applications.
There is a specific crimper for marine application connectors.
I always put a shrink sleeve over my work even if the connections have insulation already. Minimum of 6 inches on each side. The good stuff has heat activated sealant inside of it as well
But if you are interested in the very best connection wouldn't you consider an open barrel connection as you showed in your opening of the factory-installed connections?
Depends on the application. Some connections need insulation. I have another video coming out in a couple weeks on marine grade butt connectors.
So what's your take on marine step-down butt connectors. I used a ratcheting crimper and it mangled the anchor step-down butt connector. I think the jaws in my ratcheting crimper are too wide. Are there different widths to these crimpers? I don't mean the change in size by the color-coding dots either because I was using the correct colors, but the actual width of the metal jaws.
I use a ratchet crimper with a double tooth. If the butt connector is really small, I use a regular tooth crimper like in this video but I'm gentle with it.
Check this video out ruclips.net/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/видео.html
Yes this is what I looking for
I have this video as well ruclips.net/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/видео.html
Nice thanks
Thanks for watching!
Good job bud
Glad you liked it!
PRO TOOTH for my installs ;)
Thanks for sharing!
I like to use non insulated crimps with heat shrink over it. But if you have a good set of crimpers (like snap-on ones) then you can crimp them in the insulated part of then tool. I always also do a pull test on my connectors.
The ratchet type is also very good if you have a good one as it works a lot like the hydraulic big gauge crimpers.
I like your videos and sometimes I pickup some tricks that I may not know and thought about. I do a lot of installations, fix other peoples mistakes and train installers. I know what you are getting at but a lot of people use what ever the system comes with or the cheapest connectors that they can use.
I still try not to use any connectors as they will be a weak point in the system and over time you may see them corroded the wires inside. I like to soldered and heat shrink all my connections. But you try to teach people to solder and they see it takes longer they are it takes to long bla bla bla and I try to tell them you want your work to out last the vehicle. I work all over the USA and I can't afford to be going back to fix a loose wire or a connection that came loose.
Also should have in here why not to use t-taps as they drive me crazy and I just rip them out and solder in the connection even if it's not my work as that is the worst of the worst.
George T Haha I'd do a t-tap video but there aren't any in my shop. Maybe I'll buy some for a video
George T I totally agree with the philosophy the work should outlast the vehicle. It's not "faster" if the vehicle has to come back and you have to warranty the job.
It's not even the warranty of the job, it's taking pride in your work and putting a simple standard "If you were paying someone to do the work would you be happy with it. If not then why should the customer be happy"
Solder is not necessarily better than crimping. In some situations where there is a lot vibration solder can crack under fatigue. Crimp connectors when done properly should outlast the vehicle.
The crimp connectors in this video have a seam. Is this method recommended on crimp connectors without a seam (solid or brazed seam)?
I don't see why you can't use the same technique. I'd try it and test it.
Sometimes using the tooth on an insulated bud and then using the heat gun to shrink wrap will tear the insulation.
Tear the shrink wrap?
What about crimps without a seem? Mine looks like a circle with a V inside of it. Does the "V" point into the valley of the crimper?
Orientation won't really matter then.
Crimp connectors with soft heat shrink can be crimped as non-insulated ones (with the tooth opposite the seam)?
If you're referring to the marine grade crimpers, there is a different speciality tool for those.
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes, I think they are called marine grade connectors. They are a butt crimp connectors with heat shrink on them. What is the correct tool for those?
Just got into a discussion with a friend at work today because he was using the non insulated connector and the wires were coming undone because it wasn't in the correct position. But RVIA has written me up for not using the insulated.
So what do you guys practice at work?
You're crimping sta-kons without wire in them.. of course there will be a little gap, that gap is where the wire should be.. if you have insulated sta-kons then use the insulated crimping section.. if you have non insulated sta-kons, then use the non insulated section.. I am an industrial electrican and I work with inspectors that will nit pick the crap out of someone's work and this is one of the main things they can tell by someone's work and how good of an electrican they are is if they used insulated stakons and crimped them down with the non insulated section of a crimp tool.. if you use the non insulated section to crimp an insulated sta-kon and you touch that sta-kon after the power is on, it can light your butt up.. so always use your tools as they are intended, even if you think they perform better an inspector will fail your work because you "think" you know better..
Thanks for the feedback. Quick question, the connections you work on, are they in moving vehicles?
To be fair I have also evolved since this video. If you watch this video at 3:56 you can see the variety of crimpers I use. ruclips.net/video/dqy9h-Tnvvk/видео.html
But I still find for insulated nylon connectors the tooth works very well. Scroll the comments, many other professionals agree, but it sounds like we both come from very different fields.
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
If there is a tiniesy hole in bud connector insalator is it still usable? The cables are cramped together
You can wrap it in electrical tape after to make sure it's insulated.
@@AnthonyJ350 okay, I was worried about that darn insulator. went to my local auto parts store and got the red ones too! and they are the pricier ones but tear easily!!
@@mellymarie7383 Were they plastic or nylon?
@@AnthonyJ350 they look exactly like the red ones you demonstrated with in the video , a thin plastic feel to them
Do they make a crimping tool when working in a tight spot? I'm thinking something like a needle nose crimper?
I'm sure someone does, but the crimping tool we use in the video can get in tight spots. The only thing I crimp now how ever are ring terminals. We solder everything now, including the ring terminals after they are crimped.
@@AnthonyJ350 .. So you apply the solder over the crimp ( non insul) ? I thought you would solder the wire to the connector and then crimp.
@@mpcp27 I apply solder on large ring connector connections. 4 gauge for example that get hooked up to the battery.
Look into the snap on style crimpers they are a lot smaller. Neiko, Carlyle and a lot of other companies have the same style for a lot cheaper. Carlyle even offers a bent needle nose version but the crimps are not at the tip of the jaws they are toward the handle. The small snap on part number is- PWCS7ACF and the Carlyle ones are CHT WSCCP
Would have loved to see how to do this with an actual wire, as I am doing this for the first time today and wanted a close-up view of how it is down with two wires 😕
You do the same as the close up we showed, just with a wire in it.
What model Channellock pliers?
These are the ones I use www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/channellock-909-crimping-tool-pliers-8-in-0584567p.0584567.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwwY-LBhD6ARIsACvT72NuqDrMxRUHUN1VRMg_6k5EwUVeVl3y-VfulDHByauluQnfmIowG1caAuNiEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=426
How can I crimp a non insulated fork connector without creating a dimple on the back?
Check this other video I made ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.html
The best type of butt connector in my opinion are the heat shrink one
Yup those are awesome.
Why? Also can you crimp them as if they were non-insulated (with the tooth opposite the seam)?
I assumed every installer would be using a ratcheting crimper by now
I've never used one honestly. But I don't crimp that often continuously either as also all our head unit installs are typically soldered and heat shrinked.
I like the simplicity and size of the Channel Lock crimper as well.
I don't really see the need for a ratcheting crimper either.
Avery Alexander I just put my body into it rather than squeezing.
Hell yea the cheap stuff cracks or insulating splits open. Have you seen the connectors that have poor conduction ground to chassis? The metal looks fake lol
Really? I haven't noticed those kind of connectors. Sorry for the late reply Thizz, trying to catching up with everyone.
@@AnthonyJ350 Haha no worries. I think I was referring to standard ring connectors with poor conductivity. Then I saw you using ground rings in your installations. Good stuff
@@BoOmBaMan Ic gotcha
Beavis; "He said Butt" heh heh heh heh
Yup
LONG LIVE THE TOOTH 🦷✊🏿
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video! First off, are you sure the MECP manual photo is showing an insulated connector? To me it doesn't look thick enough. I didn't see anything in the text above the photo to indicate it was insulated.
Anyway, this issue has bothered me for the last 20 years. I don't think it's absolutely wrong to do it your way.(I did it that way for many years and never had a problem)
I don't use stake crimpers for insulated crimps just because every manufacturer and trade association I come across disagrees with the MECP. I have researched tons of documents over the years and I was surprised to see the MECP manual supposedly going against the grain especially with a tool that is most always universally marked with a INSL and a Non INSL slot.
Here's my reasoning based on my research. The ideal crimp is a "gas tight" connection where the barrel fully envelops the strands to prevent moisture ingress as well as maintaining ampacity. That's not usually possible with cheaper or smaller gauge crimps because most metal barrels are not thick enough to maintain enough pressure on the compressed strands.
Here's why I think a staked crimp is potentially worse. In the hands of Big Bubba who hasn't much experience he will put too much force on those small strands that he breaks off a lot of strands or at least creates a weak point in most of the strands that will potentially work harden thru vibration and break off. This problem is exacerbated by using cheap crimpers with thin, narrow tooling that creates more of a point rather than a wider stake that distributes the crimp pressure.
I saw one video a while back showing pull testing done by a laboratory which shows the smooth oval jaw high quality insulated crimp to be superior to a poorly done stake crimp whether insulated or not.
So in the hands of an experienced technician with high quality wide mouth tooling the stake method will work fine whether insulated or non insulated.
Looks like the picture shows an uninsulated terminal but I would think the text would clearly state as much. When in doubt I always refer to OEM specs. IIRC even NASA standards say refer to OEM. When properly crimped best results are to use insulated on insulated and non on non.
It's insulted in the picture. If you talk to anyone in the industry this is how it's done, but most of us have strayed away from butt connectors all together and prefer soldering with shrink wrap.
Please don't listen to this guy.. any electrical inspector with half a brain can see when someone crimped an insulated sta-kon with the non insulated part of their crimping tool.. and they should and will fail your work because of that reason.. it is a safety hazzard when the power is turned on because crimping insulated sta-kons with the non insulated section of a crimper can leave a hole or gap and can cause a short if it touches a box or peice of conduit.. if you touch that sta-kon that has a hole or gap in it, it can and will shock you or short out while under load.. it is very dangerous and shouldn't be taken lightly.. and I always tape around my splices and tape up devices that I have put sta-kons on because it is common courtesy for the next electricans because in 10 years when another electrican comes to work on something, he won't get shocked because it has tape around it..
You didn't watch the whole video and see my reasoning. It seems you also don't have an automotive background.
I discuss how not to pierce the insulation and show an industry standard text book.
Read the comments and there are other industry professionals that agree with this technique. Have you ever tried it?
Only thing I'd say different is that the tooth goes on the split side. Makes it stronger because the ends lock into each other. Using the back relies on the strength of the folded edges. Just have to center it.
I've seen way more errors occur that way.
Wasn't the guy supposed to teach us how to deal with the problem of the tooth piercing the insulation?!? So basically using the tooth gives a better crimp but destroys the insulation. That's quite a BS advice no? Then why not using Klein 1005 or 1006 or the Milwaukee? If I'm correct their non-insulated crimp section does NOT have a tooth. Don't they provide a crimp as good without the issue of ending up with a damaged insulation with a tooth mark in it?
You purchase nylon butt connects, which were shown and discussed about in the video. That's how you solve that issue.
@@AnthonyJ350 I solely use nylon terminals. Unless I use Anderson Powerpole (polycarbonate) or Dupont connectors. I purchased a pair ChannelLock 909 pliers today at Canadian Tire and crimped about eight or nine NYLON butt connectors and each AND every single time the tooth pierced the nylon sleeve. By simply looking at the nylon insulation it didn't look like it has been pierce. But with a multimeter and probe leads to test continuity I was able to see that the nylon insulation on EVERY terminals has been pierce by the tooth. So next time then test your work with a multimeter just to check. You might have a bad surprise. Unless you have access to connectors made out of a very special strong nylon. And if the multimeter doesn't show continuity, slightly push the probe against the nylon insulation, I bet you'll have continuity. The tooth is crushing the nylon insulation so thin, that if it doesn't pierce it during the crimping process, the insulation most probably will rupture later one. Show your technique to an electrical engineer (one of the few that actually know what he's doing) and listen what he has to say. Tomorrow I'm gonna go at Lumen to see if I can buy a Klein 1006 (or a 1005 or the Milwaukee) and see if I can get better results.
@@mikem8145 Where are you getting your connectors from, because we get ours from speciality distributors not open to the public. These are practices used in my industry. Our preferred choice is solder and shrink tube, but if we have to use butt connectors that's what we use.
Is it possible you're trying to crush them as hard as you can? Maybe you're just really strong?
@@AnthonyJ350 lol you said to lean the pliers on the table and I'm not even doing that. Like I said I'm going to Lumen tomorrow. Lumen is not open to public, but mainly to electricians and contractors, it's the largest distributor of electric equipment in Quebec. I'll see if I can find better quality connectors.
@@AnthonyJ350 If this method works only for the nylon connectors that you get from specialty distributors non open to the pubic then it will be misleading for the people who watch this video thinking that can get any nylon connector and use the tooth method without any damage to the insulation.
Never use the tooth on a marine grade connector.
I have a video dedicated for marine grade butt connectors ruclips.net/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/видео.htmlsi=x9Fay3l0kp68jNcg
The internet is a magnet for idiots. No wire in the connector? If you use the right size wire for the right size connector I promise you there will be no gaps. I mean in this case the manufacturer clearly put the instructions on the tool and yet we have idiots who ignore them.
Which part of the video are you referring to?
Just curious, what industry do you work in?
Just use needle nose pliers. Lmao 😂😂
Derrick h That's asking for a really poor connection.
Utterly useless video. These crimpers are made to be used with wires inside the connectors! Where's the demo with wired connectors? Like what's the POINT?
You're asking about plugs with pigtail wire ends? I'm trying to understand what you want to see.