The crimpers with the gap are made to crimp the connector and the strain relief on a nylon connector at the same time. I stopped using these kinds of connectors years ago. I just use noninsulated butt connectors and a size and color of shrink tubing of my choosing. Doing that way, you can use the spike on your crimpers.
I found the brand of the these crimpers matter. Amazon ones wouldn't be consistent enough. Using Tool Aid brand now. And we work on emergency vehicles.
They make proper crimp dies for use with heat shrink crimp connectors that don’t have the teeth on them. The dies on your crimpers are for non heat shrink crimps.
If you watch the video you can see my dies are meant for these connectors. It's just double. I don't know what to tell you. We're the number 1 shop in Canada for building and servicing Law Enforcement for the past 12 years. I will say there's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
@@AnthonyJ350 If you search heat shrink crimp dies you will see lots of them. The double teeth may work but the manufacturers will often tell you those are meant for non heat shrink nylon connectors. I’m not saying you are performing inferior work but there is better tooling solution for the hardware.
@@AnthonyJ350 Take a look into a Knipex 97 52 37. There are lot’s of chinese dies in similarity but they are lacking quality control and are often too “large” resulting in insufficient clamp force. A second issue is chinese wire and connector manufacturers are often skimping on material and barrel diameters on connectors are regularly undersized to save costs.
Excellent vid! I gotta get the correct ratchet crimper! I have recently used wago’s (sp) to connect thermostat (I think the wires are 22 gauge) to rv control box in rv ceiling allowing for thermostat to control furnace, ac, heat strip and fan. How would you protect the six wires at thermostat? Thanks.
Thank you for the information. I was looking at the Ancor ratcheting crimping tool and it seems like they recommend a single for the heat shrink connectors and double for nylon and vinyl. Can you validate some of this info? I have the same type of connectors you are using in this video for my bilge pump but I am wondering if to use the double or single crimp tool.
I've tried the single and for whatever reason it wouldn't bite the wire that well. I was able to pull the wire out too easily. Then learning from my boss, the double tooth works much better and doesn't damage the heat shrink. I like the Tool Aid brand and make any adjustments if necessary to get the best crimp.
love this video! anyway you could help with using on a swivel cord for a Dolphin Nautilus CC pool cleaner? The swivel cord was chewed in half by my dog and its the blue cord now the power cord
What's your take on the low temp solder and heat shrink connectors.ive used em for a few years and prob a few dozen radios and haven't had a problem. Was just wondering if you liked them or not
@@49S13 i use the cheap amazon packs. Like 200pc for 25 bucks. I use it for everything and haven't had a failure besides me over heating them and splitting but when done right they work amazing. Did trailer lights 5 years ago and about 10k miles and still working fine
Okay I bought one of these Chinese aftermarket double-dins Android 8.1 I'm down to a few wires left and one of them is somehow my GPS doesn't work unless I'm using my Wi-Fi hotspot help please
@@AnthonyJ350 Think of the round strands of wire only making contact at the highest point of eachs wire. The solder fills in all the airgaps making all sides of the wire carrying the current. This is more critical in where low impedance applications is required. This procedure is also useful were a weather insulation can not be made at the end of crimped terminals such as car battery terminals. Example: Have you seen exposed multi strand battery wire wicking corrosion back into the insulation? In another case I had an old set of copper battery cables that hardly worked due to the corrosion in the crimped clamp to cable. I undid the crimp, cleaned the cables and tined them, cleaned and tined the clamp. I reclamped the cables and them flowed solder into the crimp area. The jumper cables now work better than new, carrying the maximum current with minimal contact resistance between the clamp and cable.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 Interesting. I always liked solder to help protect the wire and strength on ends. Just wouldn't think you would add more conductivity due to copper already being highly conductive and it's not the whole line. But under the premise you're avoiding corrosion I see your point.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 I look at harness splices all the time and they are just pressure welded....? There's never any solder, and you can strip out individual strands from the wire and pull until they fail. They stay attached at the splice. I'm just not seeing how having what is essentially a wire-solder-wire interface could possibly be better than fusion? There's _definitely_ no solder in aerospace or military avation.
@@jimurrata6785 At NASA, I have repair many Temperature Baths for exactly corrosion weaping up the crimped connectors and failing the power supplies. Solution: cut the wire, strip it, tin it, crimp on new connector, flow solder on the connector if possible. Crimping is frowned upon on Space Hardware. Soldering or high reliability connections are always used...Granted it might be overkill for a DIY doing a simple installation on a car that can later repair a failed connection.
On the “double crimp” crimpers, you should notice that they are in fact different profiles. The one with the smooth arc that closes tighter is for the terminal side and the one that is a little further apart and has “ridges” in it goes on and is designed for crimping the connector insulation to the wire insulation for strain relief.
Not a professional. Is it worth it purchasing a new ratchet crimper to crimp insulated butt cap for a small home speaker wiring job or just stick with the Klein cutter/crimper for insulated, non-insulated tool. Thanks?
🫣 Hmmm…. No LUBRICATION required for BUTT work? 🤣 Seriously… Thanks for this video presentation. They sure seem easier to use than crimp or solder (or both) with dual wall / adhesive lined heat-shrink tubing. Half of the time I’d forget to include the heat-shrink tubing BEFORE performing the splice.
You're just twisting it so there's no stray wires going off to the side creating burrs. Have you actually been able to consistently replicate that problem by lightly twisting 100% copper wire and then crimping? I haven't been able to do it in 15 years. To give the folks at home some context, what industry do you work in to come to that conclusion?
Check my Amazon store in Electrical Materials www.amazon.com/shop/anthonyj350?ref_=cm_sw_r_mwn_aipsfshop_aipsfanthonyj350_TKZH3XCZPK07PKPVN0SF&language=en_US
I don’t recommend these for marine use, I can tell you from years of experience these are not only bad idea, but they are also very dangerous. Corrosion will stil find it’s way if it’s not soldered ( the only true way to join any connections between wire breaks in insulated wire) even when insulated corrosion works it’s way up the wire just like electrolysis, it’s inevitable. So why make the life of your wiring shorter? Now the dangerous point, with corrosion comes resistance and resistance causes heat, these butt connections are like hot spots waiting to go off! Some of y’all will disagree with me, and I can respect your decision either way. Just giving you all years of experience from lessons learned the hard way( (I’ve worked on boat electronics all my life) my errors are your knowledge and it’s free for y’all.
Thanks for sharing. So you've found that even a Wurth butt connector with glue inside will still have corrosion? I can understand if it's an open butt connector. These are similar connectors also found in airplanes and they experience a lot of condensation. I find connections there's always a debate, solder vs butt connector and I've done a few videos and have practiced them both over the past 14 years.
@@AnthonyJ350 My view about connections is based on Marine use only. I’ve used the connectors on tail lights and car audio in vehicles and haven’t had too many problems
@@anwhyistherumgone I just thought these are completely sealed because of all the glue that covers the wire as well as the insulation shrinking over it. Because the other argument, in a vehicle application the manufacturer crimps all of their connections. In very cold climates solder can become brittle. That's why we don't see that technique in aviation. But everyone's experience and specialty will vary.
I use these for Marine. It's what I see others use as well. I've been told not to use Solder for applications with current..... these debates make my head hurt, cause, how do you know who is right, other than testing on your own, and, perhaps, experiencing a failure.
I hate that there are tools that look identical and work so differently. It's like an inbuilt gotcha/trap for anyone just trying to get a simple job done.
Here's a good explanation of why you are using the incorrect crimpers for these heat shrink terminals: ruclips.net/video/3yiwwfoqE6U/видео.html Additionally the crimp heights are different between the two types of connectors... as someone who aspires to be a high-reliability builder you should be using the manufacturer recommended tool for the specific terminal.
But for 12 years our shop hasn't had any crimp failures doing it this way. Don't know what to tell you. I just share what works for us and proven out of our shop.
It's been field tested in this shop for 12 years on first responder vehicles. I don't know what to tell you, it works. You can stop by and we can compare techniques and tools if you'd like.
@@AnthonyJ350 do I really need to buy a specialty crimper tool for these marine connectors? Can I use something else? Don't want to buy a specialty tool for a one time use
Can u help me with a question? I bought some cheap baja designs. Knock off s. Look like the lp 6in. But they're only like 5in. Do I need a relay? Plz and ty.
I'm just splicing together a 12v supply line from my truck to the slide-in camper. This will do great, thanks!
Glad the video helped you 🙂
Thanks a million! Did it right all working!
Glad to hear the video helped you!
The crimpers with the gap are made to crimp the connector and the strain relief on a nylon connector at the same time. I stopped using these kinds of connectors years ago. I just use noninsulated butt connectors and a size and color of shrink tubing of my choosing. Doing that way, you can use the spike on your crimpers.
I found the brand of the these crimpers matter. Amazon ones wouldn't be consistent enough. Using Tool Aid brand now. And we work on emergency vehicles.
Great video thanks for your sharing
Thanks for watching!
Great video, thanks
Thank you!
They make proper crimp dies for use with heat shrink crimp connectors that don’t have the teeth on them. The dies on your crimpers are for non heat shrink crimps.
We use these on Law Enforcement vehicles with no issues and these vehicles take a beating. Got these crimpers from my SnapOn guy.
If you watch the video you can see my dies are meant for these connectors. It's just double. I don't know what to tell you. We're the number 1 shop in Canada for building and servicing Law Enforcement for the past 12 years.
I will say there's more than 1 way to skin a cat.
Can you send me the part number to the tool you're using?
@@AnthonyJ350 If you search heat shrink crimp dies you will see lots of them. The double teeth may work but the manufacturers will often tell you those are meant for non heat shrink nylon connectors. I’m not saying you are performing inferior work but there is better tooling solution for the hardware.
@@AnthonyJ350 Take a look into a Knipex 97 52 37. There are lot’s of chinese dies in similarity but they are lacking quality control and are often too “large” resulting in insufficient clamp force. A second issue is chinese wire and connector manufacturers are often skimping on material and barrel diameters on connectors are regularly undersized to save costs.
thanks for sharing well done
Thanks for watching!
Excellent vid! I gotta get the correct ratchet crimper! I have recently used wago’s (sp) to connect thermostat (I think the wires are 22 gauge) to rv control box in rv ceiling allowing for thermostat to control furnace, ac, heat strip and fan. How would you protect the six wires at thermostat? Thanks.
Thanks for watching! I'd spray a little bit of Fluid Film to protect the wires.
Thank you for the information. I was looking at the Ancor ratcheting crimping tool and it seems like they recommend a single for the heat shrink connectors and double for nylon and vinyl. Can you validate some of this info? I have the same type of connectors you are using in this video for my bilge pump but I am wondering if to use the double or single crimp tool.
I've tried the single and for whatever reason it wouldn't bite the wire that well. I was able to pull the wire out too easily.
Then learning from my boss, the double tooth works much better and doesn't damage the heat shrink. I like the Tool Aid brand and make any adjustments if necessary to get the best crimp.
I’ve used the single one a bunch and I gave up entirely using it because it never actually crimped the wire. Will try the double tooth one, thanks
love this video! anyway you could help with using on a swivel cord for a Dolphin Nautilus CC pool cleaner? The swivel cord was chewed in half by my dog and its the blue cord now the power cord
I don't think I can help.
What's your take on the low temp solder and heat shrink connectors.ive used em for a few years and prob a few dozen radios and haven't had a problem. Was just wondering if you liked them or not
Is that the connector with the solder already built into them?
@@AnthonyJ350 yessir
@@918Kustomz It looks like a good idea, but I have zero experience with it and haven't seen it used in the field, so I can't give any feedback on it.
If you get the legit Raychem ones they are fine, but expensive, use them on aircraft all day long.
@@49S13 i use the cheap amazon packs. Like 200pc for 25 bucks. I use it for everything and haven't had a failure besides me over heating them and splitting but when done right they work amazing. Did trailer lights 5 years ago and about 10k miles and still working fine
Okay I bought one of these Chinese aftermarket double-dins Android 8.1 I'm down to a few wires left and one of them is somehow my GPS doesn't work unless I'm using my Wi-Fi hotspot help please
I would buy a name brand like Kenwood, Alpine or Pioneer.
@@AnthonyJ350 lol.. I know, I got what I paid for. But when the interface and harness cost me 280 I couldn't afford it . 😂
Good
Thank you for watching!
I do like the extra weather tight seal of that shrink crimp..
For added strength and electrical conductivity, I always tin the wires before crimping.
Interesting, how does the solder make the copper more conductive?
@@AnthonyJ350 Think of the round strands of wire only making contact at the highest point of eachs wire. The solder fills in all the airgaps making all sides of the wire carrying the current. This is more critical in where low impedance applications is required. This procedure is also useful were a weather insulation can not be made at the end of crimped terminals such as car battery terminals. Example: Have you seen exposed multi strand battery wire wicking corrosion back into the insulation? In another case I had an old set of copper battery cables that hardly worked due to the corrosion in the crimped clamp to cable. I undid the crimp, cleaned the cables and tined them, cleaned and tined the clamp. I reclamped the cables and them flowed solder into the crimp area. The jumper cables now work better than new, carrying the maximum current with minimal contact resistance between the clamp and cable.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 Interesting. I always liked solder to help protect the wire and strength on ends. Just wouldn't think you would add more conductivity due to copper already being highly conductive and it's not the whole line. But under the premise you're avoiding corrosion I see your point.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 I look at harness splices all the time and they are just pressure welded....?
There's never any solder, and you can strip out individual strands from the wire and pull until they fail.
They stay attached at the splice.
I'm just not seeing how having what is essentially a wire-solder-wire interface could possibly be better than fusion?
There's _definitely_ no solder in aerospace or military avation.
@@jimurrata6785 At NASA, I have repair many Temperature Baths for exactly corrosion weaping up the crimped connectors and failing the power supplies. Solution: cut the wire, strip it, tin it, crimp on new connector, flow solder on the connector if possible. Crimping is frowned upon on Space Hardware. Soldering or high reliability connections are always used...Granted it might be overkill for a DIY doing a simple installation on a car that can later repair a failed connection.
Your not using the crimpers correctly. It has a two stage die in it. It will crimp the wire and the strain relief at the same time.
What's wrong exactly? The crimp sees compression and the insulation isn't damaged.
On the “double crimp” crimpers, you should notice that they are in fact different profiles. The one with the smooth arc that closes tighter is for the terminal side and the one that is a little further apart and has “ridges” in it goes on and is designed for crimping the connector insulation to the wire insulation for strain relief.
Not a professional. Is it worth it purchasing a new ratchet crimper to crimp insulated butt cap for a small home speaker wiring job or just stick with the Klein cutter/crimper for insulated, non-insulated tool. Thanks?
I think it is. They're not much and you can use them for other jobs.
Thank you for your help 🙂❤
You're welcome 😊
What brand marine connectors do you use?
PICO
🫣 Hmmm…. No LUBRICATION required for BUTT work?
🤣
Seriously… Thanks for this video presentation.
They sure seem easier to use than crimp or solder (or both) with dual wall / adhesive lined heat-shrink tubing.
Half of the time I’d forget to include the heat-shrink tubing BEFORE performing the splice.
Thanks for watching!
Error error, never twist wires for Crimping,it will breake some wires and the Crimping will not be solid.
Research it if you don't belive it.
You're just twisting it so there's no stray wires going off to the side creating burrs. Have you actually been able to consistently replicate that problem by lightly twisting 100% copper wire and then crimping? I haven't been able to do it in 15 years.
To give the folks at home some context, what industry do you work in to come to that conclusion?
Where do you get these butt connectors? What brand are they?
Check my Amazon store in Electrical Materials www.amazon.com/shop/anthonyj350?ref_=cm_sw_r_mwn_aipsfshop_aipsfanthonyj350_TKZH3XCZPK07PKPVN0SF&language=en_US
Just FYI, inside the marine connector is tin plated copper, not pot metal, witch is hard and brittle, think a hot wheels toy car
Thanks for the comment
I don’t recommend these for marine use, I can tell you from years of experience these are not only bad idea, but they are also very dangerous.
Corrosion will stil find it’s way if it’s not soldered ( the only true way to join any connections between wire breaks in insulated wire) even when insulated corrosion works it’s way up the wire just like electrolysis, it’s inevitable. So why make the life of your wiring shorter? Now the dangerous point, with corrosion comes resistance and resistance causes heat, these butt connections are like hot spots waiting to go off! Some of y’all will disagree with me, and I can respect your decision either way. Just giving you all years of experience from lessons learned the hard way( (I’ve worked on boat electronics all my life) my errors are your knowledge and it’s free for y’all.
Thanks for sharing. So you've found that even a Wurth butt connector with glue inside will still have corrosion? I can understand if it's an open butt connector. These are similar connectors also found in airplanes and they experience a lot of condensation. I find connections there's always a debate, solder vs butt connector and I've done a few videos and have practiced them both over the past 14 years.
@@AnthonyJ350
My view about connections is based on Marine use only. I’ve used the connectors on tail lights and car audio in vehicles and haven’t had too many problems
@@anwhyistherumgone I just thought these are completely sealed because of all the glue that covers the wire as well as the insulation shrinking over it. Because the other argument, in a vehicle application the manufacturer crimps all of their connections.
In very cold climates solder can become brittle. That's why we don't see that technique in aviation. But everyone's experience and specialty will vary.
What do you suggest for marine applications?
Especially for bilge pump connections?
I use these for Marine. It's what I see others use as well. I've been told not to use Solder for applications with current..... these debates make my head hurt, cause, how do you know who is right, other than testing on your own, and, perhaps, experiencing a failure.
I hate that there are tools that look identical and work so differently. It's like an inbuilt gotcha/trap for anyone just trying to get a simple job done.
I know, I have so many crimpers now
Better to not use the torch on heat the shield it's too easy to burn the wire insulation as in this vid. Better to use the heat gun.
Thanks for the feedback
Great vid! I didn't see the butt connectors in your store... where can I get some ?
I get them from a local distributor. I'll look into updating the Amazon store.
Here's a good explanation of why you are using the incorrect crimpers for these heat shrink terminals: ruclips.net/video/3yiwwfoqE6U/видео.html
Additionally the crimp heights are different between the two types of connectors... as someone who aspires to be a high-reliability builder you should be using the manufacturer recommended tool for the specific terminal.
But for 12 years our shop hasn't had any crimp failures doing it this way. Don't know what to tell you. I just share what works for us and proven out of our shop.
@@AnthonyJ350 I'll take 12 years of proven solutions versus a sales guy with no long term durability testing.
@@notknown8214 Thanks for the support 🙂
No it won't make the crimp correctly because THAT is the wrong tool for THOSE insulated barrels! THAT is for spade type connectors!
It's been field tested in this shop for 12 years on first responder vehicles. I don't know what to tell you, it works.
You can stop by and we can compare techniques and tools if you'd like.
@@AnthonyJ350 do I really need to buy a specialty crimper tool for these marine connectors? Can I use something else? Don't want to buy a specialty tool for a one time use
@@wazup3333 Yes you do, or you might break the jacket.
Can u help me with a question? I bought some cheap baja designs. Knock off s. Look like the lp 6in. But they're only like 5in. Do I need a relay? Plz and ty.
What kind of device is it?