How To Crimp Electrical Connectors
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- Опубликовано: 29 июн 2017
- This video details how I crimp electrical connectors. I also talk about, and demonstrate some additional methods for crimping electrical connections. I hope you find the information helpful.
Here's a video I did on Soldering Wires that you might also find helpful: • How To Solder Ultimate...
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Info on wire gauges: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wire_gauge
Check out Painless Wiring: www.painlessperformance.com
Tools
Crimping Tool: www.jbtoolsales.com/sg-tool-a...
Crimping Pliers: www.jbtoolsales.com/sk-hand-t...
Wire Stripper: www.jbtoolsales.com/sg-tool-a...
Wire Stripper (Green Handle): www.jbtoolsales.com/audiopipe...
Stripper/Crimper: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-56...
Weller Soldering Station: www.jbtoolsales.com/weller-we...
Butane Soldering Iron: www.jbtoolsales.com/solder-it...
IsoTip Soldering Iron: www.iso-tip.com/product/quick...
Heat Gun: www.jbtoolsales.com/titan-too...
Connectors
Shrink Tube Butt Connectors: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-00...
Shrink Tube Connectors 12-10 gauge: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-04...
Shrink Tube Connectors 22-18 gauge: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-04...
Shrink Tube Connectors 16-14 gauge: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-04...
Assorted Electrical Connectors: www.jbtoolsales.com/k-tool-04...
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy. 
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As always, another great video by Eric. Thanks for enlightening me on the different connector crimping tools. learn something new every day.Thanks for posting Eric.
i recently started assembling my own custom sleeved computer power cables, it was definitely a learning experience, lots of trial and error and practice to get them right, but very satisfying when done correctly!
You are spot on advising the use of the correct crimping tool. The ratchet type with the sets of interchangeable jaws are best. Regarding over crimping.... on most of these tools there is a sort of star shaped pressure adjuster and locking screw this allows you to avoid over crimping .Look for the arrow indicating + or - . Also always close the crimps fully until they spring back open automatically............enjoying these great vids
Eric, there is an adjustment on your ratcheting crimper that completely eliminates the ability to over crimp with that type of tool. It's on the side of the tool and looks like a star with a Phillips screw in the middle of it. Adjust this properly and the tool will automatically release prior to ever being able to over crimp.
Funny you should mention that, I figured that out the day after I shot this video. Thanks!
We never quit learning. Thanks for pointing that out, SANTAMAN. I just bought crimpers just like that.
Hey, he said how to pretty close crimp electrical connectors!!
Hi zMR. ERIC , It was very pleasant to see you again after a short intervention of 2to 3 years
Sir , you are a blessing too many many thousands of people all around the world to keep their life easy going with the automotive technologies learned from your sincere service given online. May God Bless You and Your Family.
I am Mohandas from New Jersey.
L
The shield (looped) attachment not only heats the back side of the shrink tubing, it also "shields" from damaging other wires in tight areas (like wires in the dash of your car)... Thanks Eric! Been watching your stuff for a long time.
Great post. When you put the item to be crimped in the die while the die is outside the tool, I could see exactly where to place my connector. It's so much easier to see what you are doing than the seven other posts I found on the same subject before finding yours. Thank you for your help.
Excellent timing, I've recently picked up a 1998 GMC C2500 with the 6.5L diesel and she's got quite a few electrical problems that I've traced back to harness damage in multiple spots. Currently have the intake out so I can get better access to where the bulk of the damage is.
Been soldering everything (mostly non-automotive stuff) forever, got sick of encountering aluminum wires and such that don't solder easily and finally ordered a crimping tool. Thanks for the primer, was glad to see YOU had a video on this when i checked RUclips.
Excellent video Eric. Proper tools make all the difference. When I strip the insulation with wire strippers like your yellow/black pair or the red handle pair, I squeeze once with the proper size cutter then rotate the wire 90 degrees and squeeze again to fully cut the insulation then move to the next larger size cutter and pull the insulation off. That way you will not break any strands of the center conductor as you pull the insulation off.
I was looking into this topic just a few days ago, hoping you had made a video on it. Sure enough just a few days later it's posted, very helpful, great video.
Excellent video Eric. You are absolutely right the correct tools make the job, there are different arguments for mechanical crimps vs soldier for different applications. This video was well thought out and presented.
Thank you for this great video. You are 100% correct. You have to have the right tools! I am rewiring a 1966 Chevy C-10. Bought a cheap tool, watched this video and bought the "Tool Aid" which you are using. It makes crimping easy and perfect crimps! Thank you for sharing!
You mentioned choosing good wire (at about 4:25). I would like to add the importance of choosing the right wire. Some people don't know that solid wire isn't appropriate for automotive. Much lesser known (and the difference in the wires you held up for demonstration) insulation is rated for different applications. Some are made for added protection against oil or solvents, where others are intended for higher heat areas for example.
As usual you have made a very informative and helpful video. Well done sir and thank you.
I actually learned all of this in electrical class. you got all the right tools for the right job!
As a hobby dude in my garage wiring up anything and everything. I use the exact same ratcheting crimper you're using and I absolutely love it.
Great information, I am currently making two flood lights for nightime trout fishing and this helped me tremendously! Subbed!
Thank you so much for making this! I hadn't thought of the heat gun before but will start using that from now on. I'm about to take on a project of installing an aftermarket Android stereo so this tutorial is perfect. I also enjoyed what you said about the crimping being very relaxing. That, of course, is if you're not using the cheap-o Harbor Freight stripper's crimpers that are 1/16" thick and act like scissors when crimping.
I really like how you add solder to the ring connector after crimping it. We do the same thing in our shop.
I crimp first then add solder to insure max bonding. I find this procedure to be especially important for connections made OUTSIDE the vehicle as moisture, dirt and salt will degrade a crimp only connection in time. I have had to do over connections that were compromised in this way. I like the heat shrinkable connectors for inline bonding as I will sure not get a soldering iron in there without wrecking the connector. Another Great showing, Eric !
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I occasionally crow to people on the quality of your presentations, video and lighting. Your early experience in media arts stands you in good stead. Gordon (AKA Gweedo Murray)
eric thanks for the help im trying to extend some cords on a car connector so this information helps tremendously have a good day
Nice man! I just did my painless harness on my Bronco, I wish you had this video before that. I learned a lot through the process but this video would have helped. Good job!
I like those quick release levers for your crimper dies. I have to remove my two screws to change out dies .. although I never change them. I've got a second crimper for non- insulated connectors.
You are a demigod amongst mechanics and provide inspiration to us lesser beings.
When removing insulation with SCISSORS-type strippers, close the tool around the wire then open it back up without pulling off the insulation. Rotate the tool (or wire) 90 degrees, then clamp down again. Done right (with quality wire) and you can pull the insulation off the wire with your thumbnail.
To chime in regarding solder, I've been known to use it if the wire won't otherwise hold a crimp. One might rightly ask, "Why not just solder the connector in place and skip the crimp?" With insulated connectors I skip the crimp if I can pull the insulator off and slide it back up over the wire insulation. I then solder the connector on then pull the insulator back over the bare metal. Most of the time the wire insulation is too thick, though.
Great job Eric. Thanks for all of your advice and humor.
i like the heat shrink butt connectors and terminals much more than the standard dark plastic ones.
i try to go a little smaller than the recommended color connections like you did in the video with a blue connector for 10 gauge wire even though it's technically in yellow territory. it feels tighter.
i use the second style of strippers and the pliers type of crimpers, personal preference, as long as you use a tool designed for the job, you'll have much more success than trying to use a random pair of pliers to crimp or diagonal cutters instead of a correct stripper.
excellent video. keep up the good work.
I would have no idea about the non insulated connectors, I've already dealt with a few of them and I kind of just sandwich it together, but now I know I can get that tool, life will be so much easier thanks a bunch
I really enjoyed this guy's tutorial. He really knows his stuff!
Thank you!!!
The ignitor for my fireplace broke and they no longer make the type of igniter that fits my fireplace. Everywhere told me my only option was to either open it up and light it by hand every time, or get a new fireplace.
With this I was able to wire up part of my old broken igniter with part of a new one.
Thanks for the free videos Eric!
Automotive wiring if one of my favorite things to do! I actually remove the plastic insulation from crimp connectors (other than butt connectors) and solder them on (no crimping) and add a little dielectric grease (stops any corrosion caused by the solder) with my own heat shrink. It comes out super strong and looks very good. I'm not a big fan of connectors that come with heat shrink built in because MOST, not all but MOST have a heat activated adhesive layer on the inside. Some people like the adhesive, but IMO it causes issues in the long, long run. Some of that adhesive will extrude out onto the wire when you heat shrink it, this extra adhesive is messy and collects debris. This debris can become conductive over time, just look at videos about dirty batteries and how that dirt can become conductive over time. Just my two cents, albeit my two cents is probably only worth .5 cents to most people that read this whole thing. Great video Eric!
Good to know. Thanks.
I do the same thing, but crimp the connector first, then flow enough solder to wick the connector to the wire. heat shrink over the top, beautiful. Never had a failure.
Great video! I didn't see it in this video, but I've used some electrical connectors that have a male and female connection which can be disconnected if needed. I've used this connecting wires to my side turn signal mirrors.
Great Video Eric!
Overall, very good instructional video on the basics. Using the correct tooling is absolutely critical. Love how you stress that. Note: You should NEVER crimp a soldered (tinned) wire! There are several failures that can result from doing that. It is a DEFECT in all military, aviation and medical application.
Fantastic video, it helps when your camera can pick up on the details!
TY, I really needed to know this. To know ur tools is to have a peace of mind.
Oh cool! :D I bought a crimping tool just like yours by misstake today, when I actually wanted a cable-stripping tool (yeah, I must be blind...lol). And being a complete beginner in this area, I had absolutely no idea what I had brought home! I'm not an native english speaker, so the word "crimping" to me sounded like something you might do when peeling a cable. Also the store employee actually told me it was a cable-stripper, and I was in a hurry to catch my bus. Anyways, now I realize that this is exactly the kind of tool I'm going to need after stripping the wire! =) Funny how misstakes can end up being lucky sometimes!
I love your videos. Keep them coming.
I was recently introduced to posi-lock and posi-tap connectors. They're slightly more expensive then your standard butt connector or tap, but I love them. They don't come in connectors that I am aware of, but they are great for connecting wires together.
awesome stuff, Mr C! 👍
I've always used non insulated terminals, crimped them in place, the soldered the connection to keep it from working loose, pulling out, or corroding. I then finish the connection with heat shrink tubing to give me a nice insulated terminal.
Most OE car manufactures have warnings in their repair manuals about only using crimps and never soldering wires. The base of the solder joint is a hard-spot that will fail in some circumstances....
ck m
Please cite the OEM manuals that state to "only using crimps and never soldering wires".
That's why they're also crimped. To provide strain relief. The solder is there to make it more corrosion resistant and ensure a good electrical connection.
You the man, best way to do it, hands down
Very informative. Thanks Eric.
YEEEY! i have waited for this for a long time!
Just got a really cool kit and not one mention of how to use it. Thanks Eric!
Excellent- a lot of good tips in this. Thx
Being an Automotive electrician for over thirty years you are a good motor mechanic.
Thank you!
You are a brave man using a heat gun that close to your hands while wearing rubber/nitrile gloves.
Excellent video/tutorial!
I don't have any experience with proper electrical crimping (using actual crimping tools and doing it right), but I think I might know why some people prefer to solder as well as crimp: The best crimp, short of using an industrial swage machine to compress the sleeve into a solid block, will still leave tiny air pockets between strands of wire as well as the connector. Eyes made in steel cable using crimped aluminum 'duplex' or 'turnback' sleeves tend to oxidize on the inside, gradually losing their holding power. So I assume the same issue will exist with any crimped connection - no matter how well you do it, corrosion can still occur inside the sleeve. Soldering, however, should be able to completely fill those air pockets.
Just my thoughts. I'm terrible at soldering, but I sure would rather have solder in addition to a crimp, even with shrinkwrap.
This is a fantastic video that shows the subtle intricacies of something that seems simple, but can have a few pitfalls. You're so right about having the right tool. Great work as always. A minor nitpick: I can see the benefit of having Cameraman Brian. On some of the shots here I needed to pop a Dramamine. I kid, I kid! Have a good 4th, Eric.
Yea, I miss Brian too. It's lonely in the shop these days, but the Fairmont is keeping me company.
Excellent video. Great job.
I actually watched another channel and the guy was sleeving computer cables and using shrink tubing with it. He had a heat shrink tube gun that is only a quarter of the size of the standard electric heat gun, weighs a lot less and only uses lighter fluid or a lighter insert. That would be a cool bit of arsenal for your automotive electric kit dude. I'm going to get one within the week. Cheers for the video bud. :)
Thanks for this good video. should be helpful to many.
Very informative, Eric. Thank you so much.
Stu
I love those terminals with the heat-shrink tubing pre-installed. And I hate the ones with the hard plastic. I also tend to use non-insulated terminals for ground connections. Almost everything on the car grounds to the chassis, anyway. So there's no need to worry about short-circuits.
For connections that will be exposed to the elements, I like to use "fully insulated" terminals or weather-pack terminals. On the fully insulated terminals, I put a dab of grease into them before connecting them, to keep moisture out.
Thanks for sharing your tools.
great work. miss you man
really like the video , the blue crimper look really good
good job keep up the great work bro
Eric, your the man! That is all.
These nothing like a really good stripper!
I will give a thumbs up for your procedure.
Excellent video
helpful and nicely presented
I enjoyed the video and never knew that some people crimp the wiring and then solder the connection later. That is the one thing I never did when soldering wiring, and didn't know that was an option.
Looking forward to more from the GSR series bro!
I like the crimping as appose the soldering. When done with the proper tools it makes a great connection that anyone can make.
Well, when we fixed aircraft wiring (NAVY, AE) we used crimp type splices to make a repair in a wire, crimped on pins inside connectors too. Special heat guns for the heat shrink to seal up the splices, no lighters. Crimp tools that don't release until they've been squeezed far enough. Pretty much what you see here. Soldering was only on terminals that were meant to be soldered to. I use a butane soldering iron when I solder, it heats up quick, doesn't require a cord. I'll set up a few wires, solder and then shut the iron off and put it out of the way by itself or in an old glass ashtray If I want it near. I also have a neat little butane heat gun that shrinks things up quick without too much heat. Having the proper tools and supplies to begin with makes it so much easier.
I make the wiring of an old Fiat 131 about 3 years ago only crimping and never had any electric problem. I think soldering is ok only in circuit boards. Anyway really good tutorial, I learned the hard way.
Cool video! Just want to add that tinning the wire before crimping is no good. Either solder or crimp, don't do both. Also adding a heat shrink tube over insulated crimped connectors/joins makes no sense to me (unless you want to hide your imperfect crimp...) Heat shrink tubes over soldered wire joins makes sense though, and makes a good and rigid connection if done right (it's cheaper also, but disassembly is not as easy). If using heat shrink tubes in automotive assemblies, make sure to use high quality kind with glue inside. Helps protect it against dirt and moisture and makes it more resistant to wear, moist, vibrations etc.
The reason the numbers increase as the wire diameter decreases is wire is measured as how many can fit into a square inch. Known as the Stubs Steel Wire Gauge. They use similar for IV cannula sizing.
Thanks had a hard time finding a good crimping tool.
Keep it up bro.. love the videos!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! seriously!!!!!
Good video, I learned that if you press the metal of the shrink tube flat, slide the shrink tube itself off, solder, then slide the shrink tube back over, and shrink. Added protection, add proper size shrink tube as well? Over-kill, I know but it's good, I've tried!
Thank you for this video!
Thank you Mr. Eric! RUclips just sent this to me in 2020. This is a great video! I hope you are safe and happy this Thanksgiving.
Excellent video...but no happy birthday ?!??
To each their own, reading through comments.
Yes, soldered connections can go bad over time, crack, high vibrations with no give, but I honestly believe this is based on materials used and knowledge /execution.
I mainly do soldering for security, you tug hard enough on any crimped connection, and they usually fail, but I see both sides as well and have used crimping.
Looks good Eric ! Well done sir!
klein makes an ergonomic set (blue handle white ring) very good.
I'm also led to believe that the reason that the gauge number goes up as size goes down is something to do with the number of drawing processes necessary to get the wire down to size. I also recall that it's not as easy as a 1:1 correlation to the awg number.
Great info, Thank you
Excellent video, as usual. Hope you take a look at Widemüller Stripax Plus 2.5 tool (wire ferrules). Not common here yet. Lots of neat features for jobs like this. They also have ratcheting style crimping tools, like you favor. Really enjoyed video. Thank you again.
Great videos Eric and cant wait to see the first burnout!
Thanks.
Kyle T you want to wake up in bed next to him one day dont ya homo!
fuzzy wuzzy that's not what your mom thinks.
Bud, you need to be on radio, you have the voice !!
Very useful video
Very informative thank you!
Eric
the number of conductors inside the insulation determines the flexibility of the wire. Thaat is the smaller the conductor size and the laarger number of conductors the more flexible it is. Also I have been stripping wire for over 50 years and use nothing but a knife or side cutters. You can get a good strip this way doing this method. I never use splices to join wire, but will use ring and spade terminals. In any wire joinery, I solder. Solder wires together and solder terminals on the ends. I was glad when heat shrink tubing came along. When it firsy came out it was about $15.00 for a 3 foot section to shrink over a 14 ga. wire. How things have changed over the years.
I am changing the circuit in the signal handle in my f150 02...and the circuit came with thicker wire connected to it, than whats already in my truck...can i connect 2 different size wires together?
The video makes us feel like a curios little kid standing in there, and Eric is like daddy behind me teaching all the wiring stuff ;)
Weird fetish projection
I recently built my own camper van . Wiring wise using crimps .
Using a crimping tool similar to the one in the video .
If it's getting a bit awkward , is to load the crimp into the ratchet crimper literally to the first notch on the ratchet .
So the crimp is gripped just enough so it can't fall out of the tool .
Then you have a bit more control in tight areas , push the stripped wire into the crimp then squeeze it up .
Rather unorthodox but it worked for me .
Being a welder for a good portion of my life, I tend to want to solder connections and shrink tube them then place them in flex loom. Just more confidence in those terminations and it looks so neat and tidy when you're finished.
I agree, but with this project, those shrink tube butt connectors saved my butt. (pun intended) When you have to make a thousand connections, crimping can save you a ton of time. Thanks for your input.
hay its good your passing on good information and I used to work as a quality assurance manager and your crimpers that click they should not over crimp on the job we had a lot of them and we got the best over a $100 and they are mad almost full proof and their is a bimba cylinder fixture for those tools with a foot pedal control they are nice, and your right, the right tools make the difference and wire striping in the industrial market and military grade you cant even have one strand missing because the crimp wont be as strong its a proper mechanical crimp, and solder is only a electrical connection not used as a weld not strong enough and their is a term about how clean everything is, they say is it sanitary. but I'm glade someone is not putting bullshit out their for once, hey good luck and if your installing amps and doing repairs if your interested I could tell you how it enhance amps I mean louder clear not distorting everyone I have done for people say its the best amp they ever owned and wont give it up big difference
Hi Eric! Could you please make a video on manual gear stick too tight and too lose?
Thanks for the video 👌👌
Thanks Eric the car Guy, Great information bestowed Here. Stay Dirty Bud.... Angelo
Those Kline crimpers were all there was way back. Good for insulated and non-insulated connectors. I like those crimpers you are using. Like Ethernet crimpers.
Good work
Exelente,muy útil, gracias por compartir👍👍👍
I have made many thousands of crimps and agree with NOT soldering the wire before crimping.
Agreed. I'll expand on that though, you shouldn't solder a crimped connector. There are many reasons. One, consider that the three different materials will all expand and contract at different rates and will cause the connection to come apart, oxidize and otherwise become unreliable. Another reason is that the solder creates a solid (brittle) component of the connection and will break when flexed repeatedly.
I agree on never soldering, in proffesional use it is not allowed.
The solder wil walk across the copper and removes the flexibility.
The joint will break for sure.
Crimped connectors ar far more reliable in stressed environments then soldered connections.
@@CBTalon97 I doubt the thermal expansion coefficients are significantly different and since one SHOULD anchor wire - especially before and after a join the concern about flexing leading to failure is misplaced.
@@kennmossman8701 but there is a difference, and it's needless additional labour that will only add to the chance of failure. Why bother?
@@CBTalon97 Again the thermal expansions co-efficients are not significant. by you own argument, a crimped connector would fail because the co-efficents are not identical.
The average DIY guy is more likely to crimp incorrectly. Even in the video Eric mis-crimps - TWICE. And some key points are, though talked about, are not shown well enough. It is easy to do an improper crimp.
enlightening entertaining and cathartic
Hi Eric! Im building my car and I am in the wiring step. I moved battery to the trunk. I didnt use the solder with those crimp connectors, but when I did the connections for the big powercable from trunk to front, I used little solder just because my tool was too little for the connector.IMO solder is not necessary If you have good tools and It also makes the wire too stiff to crimp for no reason.
I've learned from my granddad to put Vaseline in those crimp/shrink connectors. The excess pulls out when heat is applied.
I have 3 different types of crimpers that ratchet . They also make a hydraulic one for the big connectors like they use on battery cables. A lot of times I still solder stuff.
great video i agree its all about the tools making the job easier and better. also the connectors do not get the harbor freight ones to save money they dont stay connected or they break