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How to Crimp Large Gauge Wires (Battery Cable Lug, Ferrules & Ring Terminals) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубликовано: 5 авг 2024
- Want to crimp large wire connections the look good and are super reliable? Whenever installing aftermarket electrical devices, it's really best to use custom wire cables in order to have a clean installation. In today's video we go over battery cables vs amplifier wiring properties, crimping tools and types of connectors for heavy gauge wires. The tools, techniques and connectors will help you make connections for 10 AWG to 0 AWG.
#BatteryLug #BatteryCable #HeavyGauge #AmpPowerWire #BatteryConnection #Electrical #Electronics #BatteryTerminal
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About AnthonyJ350
I am a Mobile Electronics Certified Professional 12 Volt Installer (MECP Certified), Business Management Graduate (KPU), with a Professional Driver's License and a genuine automotive enthusiast who loves working on vehicles and I want to share my experiences with you. The goal is to help other people who can hopefully learn from my unique outlook towards vehicles, experiences and working practices.
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How to Crimp Large Gauge Wires (Battery Cable Lug, Ferrules & Ring Terminals) | AnthonyJ350
• How to Crimp Large Gau...
ANTHONYJ350
/ anthonyj350
Crimping Heavy Gauge Wire: (0:00)
Tools: (1:25)
Connections: (3:24)
Ring Terminal: (7:53)
Battery Lug: (12:37)
Ferrule: (19:46)
Butt Connector: (34:06)
I always solder my lugs too. Also use a Hakko portable extractor fan for fumes
Thanks for the tip!
Thank you for a very excellent, straight forward video, I have some 0 awg wire, and copper, to make my own, lugs, I just got the same, hydraulic crimper, and im into the van life, I live in an 01 Chevy express conversion van I have one agm 70 amp hour battery, in the back and I want to run cables to the back, connected to a DC to DC charger and a couple of 100 ah batteries, great job, thank you!
Let us know how your install goes!
I like the hook style heat deflector on my heat gun. It heats the tubing much more evenly and about twice as fast as rolling the wire to shrink all sides of the tube. It also helps keep the heat from directly hitting things behind the wire when working in tight quarters.
Thanks for the comment
Well done Sir. I'm trying make sure I'm doing right for my solar customers. Many of them are off grid and hard to get to quickly when things go wrong. It's important to take every chance to prevent failures in systems that may go unattended for a years. You made some points I hadn't thought of. Thanks!
That's great to hear! Would love to hear a follow up on how your connections are doing in the future.
@@AnthonyJ350 G
I finally found the video I been looking for for hours 😴I appreciate this video a lot
Glad it helped you out!
I learned a lot from this velog. I'm so grateful!
Thank you for watching!
Solid upload! For the longest I’ve always been in the “soldering all of my connections” camp. However, over the past 5 years or so, 2/0 or 1/0 runs have become the majority of installs I do. Which in turn has made me more flexible and comfortable with using hydraulic crimps as a suitable connection. Plus, I don’t have to hear the wifey complain about the garage smelling like flux or solder. Hope you have a great 2021! Keep up the great work!
Sounds like you do 0 gauge connections more than I do. I'm glad to hear you like the video! Hope you have a solid 2021 as well!
Thank you Anthony. Have a blessed and safe New Year to you and your family.
Thanks for watching! Wishing you the best for 2021!
For the vise technique, I have seen people use a small screwdriver to create a crimped point. Significantly better than the vise by itself.
That could work. Really recommend adding solder as well.
Great video! Sure wish I would have known about the ferrule connectors about five years ago when I added a secondary battery and cb/ham setup in my GMC Sierra.
Is it too late to change it and upgrade?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yep. Took it all out when I sold it a month ago. Got me a 2021 RAM Rebel.
Anthony you are really a skilled teacher. Thank you for these videos.
So glad you're liking them! Lots more on the channel
Excellent presentation with lots of great info.
Thank you for watching!
So helpful. Reviewing this before doing a battery relocate in my toyota.
Glad the video helped!
This is the best video that I have seen regarding proper crimping of connectors.
Thank you! I have a video for small gauge and in a few weeks will be covering marine grade butt connectors.
really helpful video, thank you!
Glad you liked it!
Jus the tip... man, you're really crimping my style
Hahaha, good one!
🎉 great video and test results!!! Thank you
Thank you for watching!
I can relate to wanting a flat spot on your hydraulic crimper. I made a couple anti-roll feet on the side of a grease gun with two hose clamps around the body so it lies stable on the floor with the handle staying on top when pumped. (It has a really long hose to reach from floor level). Made a world of difference.
I made a basic stand/holder out of finish plywood. Takes up more space, but allows a good crimp with two hands instead of three.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
Great content! It's nice to drill down into the different styles. It would be interesting to check the installation without a ferrule to demonstrate how the wires fray out. Anyway - glad I found your channel. Thx!
So glad to hear you like the videos!
Excellent video on the topic.
Thanks for watching!
The only crimping video on will ever need.
Thank you!
Excellent content!
Thank you!
Very cool, thanks.
Thank you for watching!
Great video!!!
Thanks for watching 🙂
Awesome tip for those who dont want to spend money on tools theyll only use once or even twice
Thanks for watching!
Very nice video!
Thank you for watching!
excellent video
Thank you!
Very through, thank you
You're very welcome
great - thanks.
You're welcome!
Dang this was late for me but I got it now lol I needed to crimp some 0 gauge wire for my sond system lol but thx for the video
Ya I figured now was a good time since I've learned better techniques and have been able to practice them.
So ive had luck with using welding wire in big 3 and sometimes system installs with people that cant afford the audio cable. So i was wondering if you can ever over crimp wire, damage it or the lug somehow. I too have a hydralic crimper, but different style. When i first got it i remeber using an undersized dye for 0 guage cable, but i now i know better.
I don't think you can over crimp, but the wrong size dye will deform the connector and won't look good
Jesus Christ that garage, that jeep, that camaro
That was the last shop I worked at. This is my home shop where we makes videos now ruclips.net/video/mwKEhh1nzfI/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 Im trying to play catchup, take a look! I want your floor epoxy, then in a few years I was those toolboxes! ruclips.net/video/gnJt4wBOSzY/видео.html
@@FootageFactory Love the Milwaukee pack out setups! You can build my home setup for cheaper buying used. I wanted everything to match and was particular on my drawer configuration.
For large stranded wire lugs or ferrules, you can understand the effectiveness of the crimp if you carefully cut through the center of the original crimp and see how the copper strands are compressed. You may need to use a microscope to see the small deformations. Once you analyze the crimps at different pressures with a choosen die that does not create outer pinch points on the lug of ferrule and the copper strands are evenly compressed after inspection you can then do a pull test if you want to meet a spec.
Thanks for the comment!
How do you like your Snap on torch 300? Saw it was thinking of getting one. Also saw the way you used heat gun, I would get one where there is the adapter that fits on the tip of the nozzle where the shrink tube or connector fits between the tip of the gun and the adapter to evenly heat the tube properly. Just my .02
I like the SnapOn torch a lot, thanks for the suggestion!
крута ідея друже. Дякую
Translation?
When I use a hydraulic crimper, I mark a reference line on the terminal and corresponding wire the way I want the natural twist to line up. I position the terminal in the crimper with the reference line on top and tighten it just to the point where it stays in place. I put the cable in my wood vice with the reference line on top and slide the terminal onto the wire so the reference lines match. I then have two hands to operate the tool and complete the crimp.
Thanks for sharing!
For those high current large applications, In our Lab we have found that Tining the copper wires prior to crimping works best. Tining the lug cup and inserting the tinted wire then applying a large soldering gun will make a true electrical connection that will resist corrosion.
Thanks for sharing! How big is the solving gun to heat up 0 gauge
@@AnthonyJ350 We called it "The Big Dong" It plunged into 115vac wall outlet...It had a heating cylinder that measure about 1inch wide by 8 inches. The anvil tip was about 1/2 inch. We would build cables that carried 200 amperes continuous for testing power supplies.....Good Tip on looking out for cheap aluminum cables plated with copper. Avoid it in high current applications.
@@stealthg35infiniti94 That's pretty crazy. I don't see us using something like that in our shop environment though. Ya too many problems using CCA wire, it's worth investing in OFC.
@@AnthonyJ350 Okay, I'm looking now.
I find that when I'm connecting big inverters, winches, hydraulic pumps, welders and onboard compressors I tend to use tinned, fine strand copper marine cable. (Great Lakes Skipper)
I will solder lugs for cable #2-2/0. You _know_ it's right, will carry all the amperage and will never come loose.
Adhesive shrink over that. Customers are paying good money, it behooves me to give them the best I can (best, in my mind)
Not to say a hydraulic crimp with the _proper die_ for the Magnalug is in any inferior. 💪
& 9:00 I have done this in the past but after using the vise, I take a large Phillips & while using the style type with an impact back to it, you can use a hammer & in the middle of that crimp, make your impact mark on a solid surface & setting flat
Thanks for sharing!
Any info or link for a channel talking about that particular Camaro build? I'm doing a 69 Camaro right now and I'd like to see any specifics on that wiring.
I don't think anyone documented the Camaro build process, sorry.
Thanks for this video. Love the solder idea. Going to use that on all my large gauge crimps!
I've been seeing it more on factory battery cables.
Solder on Large Gauge Wire Crimp Connections | AnthonyJ350
Anthony - I really like your video. But I'm having trouble getting "wings" on my crimps of heavy lugs. Would you mind sharing what lugs you are using as they seem to work very nicely.
They're from The Install Bay by Metra. You can just grind those wings off
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks. I usually just catch them in the corners of the die and gently crimp them back against the body. And since everything gets covered with adhesive-lined shrink tubing, they aren't seen.
Hi Anthony, amazing tutorial as usual. What's been your experience with Amazon copper lug connectors, if any? I've seen some companies selling them 3-5$ a piece, but on Amazon you can buy them a lot cheaper, so idk what's the difference. I'm doing the big 3 with a Mechman alternator, on a 2005 silverado 4.8, like the one you had I bilieve, replacing some grounds, plus in the near future a moderate sound system. So I just want to make sure these Amazon ones are good before I fill the truck with them and then I find out they are crap 😅. Thank you for all the knowledge you share!
I've been trying parts off Amazon and haven't had any issues. Technique matters the most and protecting your connections from corrosion.
Loved all the different techniques. A couple notes: ferrules are really designed for "cage clamp" style terminals, where the screw moves a flat piece into contact with the wire, not just putting the screw directly into the wire. And I've heard a lot of advice to never solder a crimped connection because you'll lose some of the vibration tolerance. Have you had any problems with that in your experience?
Thanks for the comment! I haven't had a connection break due to a terminal being soldered. I'm more concerned about elements and different metals expanding and contracting.
Soldering any connection that will see movement is generally best avoided. If you have to solder things in automotive use, it's best to use some kind of mechanical strain relief, like back-filling soldered pin connectors and stuff. Soldering involves a bunch of heat and creates a solid chunk of stiff composite material and while a crimp creates a more-or-less solid block, that block is still copper and still allows gradual levels of movement as you move away from the crimp, so you end up with less of a stress-riser.
In short, soldering a crimped connection might not end up causing problems, but it's not a good idea, it doesn't help, and it might end up causing problems. Best practice is don't do it.
This is true, but generally only an issue when you use say too much solder and let it wick down the wire past the end of the connector. Done properly, the risk of vibration having an impact is near zero. Have said that, soldering adds nothing to a properly crimped terminal. And the fact that crimping alone is what is used in aerospace tells you all you need to know. Save soldering for PCBs.
@@AnthonyJ350 It is still bad practise.
@@i_know_nothing7788 Thanks! Have you had it fail consistently?
The exterior, copper crimp presents an issue for me. I want to crimp multiple cables into one connector / terminal. Where do you find something to do this? I don't like stacking cable terminals, I want to do it in the same fashion as the factory.
Look into fusible links or fuse distribution
Great video! Can you tell me more about the large red crimping plier. I would love to purchase one, I really like the way it crimps. Keep those videos coming, good stuff.
The red crimper is a Klein tool for 10 - 8 gauge wire typically. Just a simple tooth but effective.
@@AnthonyJ350 Hi do you have a part number or link for them i have looked but as yet had no luck finding them
@@AnthonyJ350 Any chance of that part number please ??
@@reaperwayne I can't seem to find it online. I purchased the tool at Home Depot years ago.
My bad found the part number. It's a Bluepoint PWC-30
Could I ask what type of solder you used for the vice crimp example? Also I have just a couple of 12/10 to 8 gauge step down tinned copper seamless butt splice connectors to crimp. Any crimper type suggestions?
Kester brand with flux
Thanks for the info!
When using a vise to crimp you don't do it flat. You put half the connector at the split and crank down on it(this will pinch it like a dye). Then turn it perpendicular and to crank down the other half and it will wrap around holding very tight. Then you can follow up with solder
Thanks for sharing!
@smack9x
I am trying to visualize your method. Care to explain a bit more. I am thinking you have a great method....
Do you have a recommendation for a good place to buy supplies (wire, tools, ext) I live in San Francisco and can’t find a decent store that stocks anything.
Your local install shop can sell you wire. Or try searching Amazon for the brand "Install Bay" and "Stinger".
This guy has more electronics in his trunk than I do in my life.
Thanks for watching!
i was crimpping those big cables to 70-10 70-12 cable lugs, they are really difficult to even put all the cables into lug, the cable is super thick but the individual copper wire are also very fine, i always end up having a couple wire sticking out when i thought i have it, but when i pull the lug out and try again, all the copper wires are bent, it's really frustrating
Thanks for the comment!
Any advice or videos on connecting from a 1/0 GA wire down to a 8ga wire without a junction block?
No sorry I don't
@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks for the reply thou
I saw a fellow using a vise to crimp lugs, and he had a socket (Maybe 1/2"?) cut in half length wise, and was using them as dies.
If it works and he has a zero failure rate that's great. I like using tools designed for the job.
qz
Can you please give a link for the hydraulic crimping tool?
Here you go: www.amazon.ca/Titan-11980-Hydraulic-Cable-Crimper/dp/B07NPJ6KM1/ref=asc_df_B07NPJ6KM1/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=341744119581&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9574741302935172313&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060809&hvtargid=pla-783279645826&psc=1
Great video! Beautiful connections lol. You are an ar-teest
I appreciate that!
I'm having trouble finding a 0 guage crimper tool like yours I mainly do 0 guage and would love to do it this way
There's this one like the one in the video www.ebay.com/itm/113807556582?hash=item1a7f757fe6:g:8-IAAOSw7ixfreco&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337982243&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1
@@AnthonyJ350 just ordered one from Amazon
@@jessedean1983 Nice, make sure to not compress it so hard at the end because the cast tip can break.
What exactly is the name of the last tool you show. Which makes the cables quarters.
Which minute mark in the video?
Could you drill a small hole in that lug at 13:37 and fill the connection with solder, you're going to use shrink tube on it later....
I would have to try it. In theory you could as long as the wire gets hot enough to take the solder. Crimping it should create a cold weld
@@AnthonyJ350
I'm saying solder after the crimp...
It'll never corrode, or pull apart...
@@joeschlotthauer840 You could, dielectric grease will prevent corrosion as well.
Where do you get all of your wire, lugs, connectors, etc. They're not on your Amazon link...
We get them direct from our supplier and sent to our shop.
You still didn’t answer the question. Who’s your supplier. Maybe it’s a trade secret.
Still a good video.
Del City is a professional supplier of wire, connectors and related items. I believe they are based in Illinois, if I am not mistaken.
Hmmm, i got some 4awg lugs to crimp on my factory alternator, starter and wire going to my fuse box on my 06 mustang gt, but they slid over quite easiy, zero resistance actually. i measured the wire with calipers and it's 6mm thick, .24 inches which is actually a little thicker than 4awg is supposed to be i think. Maybe i'll try some 6awg lugs. I used a hammer crimper and not happy with the results.
Hammer crimper in a press works nice. I've been trying that lately.
@@AnthonyJ350 Unfortunately the wires are on the vehicle.🤣 I'm going to try the hand held crimpers on amazon when i redo them. they are too long anyway. those hydraulic ones look nice, but i don't do a lot of wiring.
@@mooosestang That hydraulic crimper isn't too much money. Better to buy the proper tool for a better result. Especially on high amperage wires
@@AnthonyJ350 Well i cut open one of my hammer crimps and it looked like a solid block of brass. i'm going to order 6awg lugs and probably just remove the wires from the car. technically i can remove the starter, alternator and fuse box wire i'm just lazy. I just didn't like how much larger the flared end was compared to the wire insulation. At any rate at least i know they are making a good connection.
Welding wire is great to work with, but I have never seen welding wire rated for oil and gas so I don’t use it on most auto applications. I don’t worry so much about abrasion as welding wire gets dragged over concrete and all sorts of surfaces, but the oil and gas resistance is a few issue, particularly under hood.
If it's not rated for oil have you seen it degrade in shops where it's being dragged on dirty floors with oil?
@@AnthonyJ350 Very few shops where welding is occurring will have liquid petroleum on the floor. Most spills either soak into the dirt or are covered with absorbent material so a cable dragged across them contacts little, if any, petroleum. This isn’t like an engine compartment where a leak can soak a battery cable or spray out of a blown power steering hose or a pressurized fuel line, etc. And often these leaks go unnoticed for some period of time. That is where the issue occurs, not in typical welding scenarios.
@@LTVoyager Says right here welding wire is suitable and oil resistant nassaunationalcable.com/en-ca/blogs/blog/welding-cable-vs-battery-cable-can-you-substitute-one-for-the-other
Have you guys seen how solder degrades over time and corrodes in the environment? A proper cold weld with a crimp tool is as strong as the metals being connected, especially with tin and copper. Soldering Aloominum requires a very toxic flux. Reinforcing inadequate crimp methods with solder will fail after the customer has been forgotten about.
I have to buy my crimping tools and re wired my stereo lol
Thanks for watching!
Nothing wrong with using welding lead, it goes beyond the specs of battery cable. Especially on the thermal heat standard.
Thanks for sharing!
i'm going to guess the harder stuff is PVC, cna't speak for amp but, i have used EPDM insulated cable and it's thick and flexible
Thanks for sharing!
The biggest downside to EPDM is very poor resistance to petroleum. As long as you keep it away from oil, gas and petroleum based greases, it can be good stuff.
@@LTVoyager I'm glad you told me, I didn't know that! And here Amazon sells it as welder cable! Not good for shop use them but, fine for in home battery banks and that!!!
what make of heat gun , thanks
Stanley makes this one
If you dont want to spend $100 on the hydraulic crimper, you can get a good old fashioned hammer crimper for about $20. You prep the same way, set the lug into the die, then give it a good whack or two with a hammer - done.
I use that hammer crimper with a hand operated hydraulic press.
How do I order the tools and ferrules?
Amazon
Do you ever solder lugs
If I can't crimp them I will.
Wish you would have discussed "correct die size".
I just use whatever fits. the tolerances on connectors will change for similar sizes so it can be a little bit trial an error till you find a combination that works for you.
@@AnthonyJ350 I just used 35mm die to crimp 2 awg and lug easily twisted ! So I went 25mm die and crimped until it was really snug and no problems. The 35mm die is just a tad under the 2 awg diameter.
I usually just put it on a rock and then hit it with a hammer. It works excellent
Thanks for sharing
The guy who taught me 2 weld wouldn't buy the copper end lugs he would make them out of copper plumbing pipe
Sounds like more work and not as nice a result.
I was tempted to do that back when the supply for ring terminals was very limited so they were expensive. Now they aren’t as expensive even for good ones
Now create a video showing how to crimp 22 gauge up to 18 gauge stranded insulated copper wire. Small gauge wire is much more difficult to crimp that 16 gauge or larger gauge wire.
I have this video ruclips.net/video/0fx0ByZzlM8/видео.htmlsi=8LhcXE881jitmcS4
And I have this video ruclips.net/video/LcCLjbPS-m4/видео.htmlsi=TOsDs5w5VKpsxjp-
I also have this video ruclips.net/video/VnPil9x8gUc/видео.htmlsi=9KgvAbfVT6flraOs
Yeah, get a nozzle for your heat gun that has a cup around the outside.
It will shrink all sides at once.
Thanks for the feedback
@@AnthonyJ350 Milwaukee 49-80-0292
Thank you for sharing how you do!
It's obvious you care, and it shows.
LiFePO4 batteries offer a longer lifespan than Optima batteries.
I like Oddessey AGM or AC Delco Gold batteries for value.
Очень здравая идея обжимать 30+ квадратов чтоб пустить напругу через предохранители общим пропускным сечением максимум 1.5 квадрата. Л - "Логика"
Thanks for watching
Not crimping the ferrule before installation is about the same as crimping ring terminals in a vise. It may work, but it is substandard work and screams amateur to everyone who looks at it in the future. As a customer, whenever I see things like this I immediately begin to wonder where else the installer cut corners and did substandard work. Better to just not do it if you want repeat business.
You have a ferrule crimper big enough for 4 gauge? @CarAudioFabrication does it in a similar fashion and Mark is one of the top benchmark skilled Installers in North America ruclips.net/video/sMFFzpzKhFg/видео.html
A
Thanks for the comment!
Not sure why you're using starter lugs vs power lugs...
They're just copper lugs, they're not limited to starter motors. But lets say they are. They're used in the elements and can handle tons of amperage.
If you don't like the look, that would be a preference, but not a fundamental point.
Maybe make a jig. Meaning something to attach the actual hydraulic crimper to. Therefore making ur crimper stationary so you have hands free to position ur work piece(the wire you're crimping).. they sell a crimping MACHINE that basically does this. Granted On that machine all you have to do is push a button to Finalize your crimp. But it costs upwards of $1000. Make a jig that basically costs nothing from say, scrap wood and zip ties. (just an example) yes making your actual
crimp is manual, but this jig makes it much easier to attain a good looking, more effective crimp...
I use a press with the hammer style crimper now.
I'm horrified. I always put the tooth of my crimper on the seam. I feel like it's a good grab when it folds. F@ck me right?
Put the tooth on the solid section
Dude, just clamp your hydraulic crimper in your vice - this way you will enough control over the crimp!
How do you crimp connections when in the vehicle and cutting wire to length?
Ok... So how in the fuck are you going to make a connection to the brass ring without fancy ass hydraulic crimpers????
Buy a hydraulic crimper for $80.
I see your using copper clad... ☹️👎
Some brands like Stinger put a coating on their wire that's silver. You cut it and it's copper inside the strand. I don't use or recommend CCA. It's also "You're" not "Your"
Dielectric grease is an insulator, not a conductor, use it only on the exterior surfaces to create a seal to prevent corrosion. Don't use it as an interface between connection points.
I prove otherwise in this video ruclips.net/video/YgJRKlE7pYg/видео.html
@@AnthonyJ350 you can say you prove it, but read the directions. It's not supposed to be used between contact surfaces. I trust the manufacturer and my 25 years of experience working on aircraft over some dude's say so on youtube. Even a simple google search show's you are wrong.
@@christaylor93 But I show what's happening with test tools. I'm not just saying it. Now not all dielectric grease displaces the same.
To be fair, in aircraft world. Don't you replace wiring after "x amount of service hours"?
I'm not just some guy on RUclips. I have 15 years of field experience working on daily drivers, emergency vehicles, motorcycles and fleet trucks that do salting.
@@christaylor93 Did you "Google search Dielectric definition? It literally says "having the property of transmitting electric force without conduction; insulating."
Sooooooooo?
@@AnthonyJ350 no, we don't replace wiring after any amount of service hours. That would be almost impossible to do. We're talking miles and miles and miles of tens of thousands of wires.
That sounds stupid you put it back in vice not to crimp it but to cool it down...
Being out in the open air would help you cool down...
So the theory of a heat sink is stupid?
Why don't you try it? Heat it up and let it just cool in the air. Then try again but lightly put it in the vice. See how much faster it cools down. You seem like a smart guy. Unless you're scared to try it 😊
@@AnthonyJ350 no its not, what I was saying is after you heated it up you put it in the vise to cool, It would cool faster if you laid it somewhere were all sides have air, sure it will cool down in a vise but cool slower, that is all I am saying
@@z4u68 But I've tried it. And I find it cools down faster when cold iron is touching it. Try it, what do you have to lose?
@@z4u68 Would it not transfer heat through conduction, especially with it being colder than the piece I heat up with the torch? www.auburn.edu/academic/forestry_wildlife/fire/heat_transfer.htm
hanebüchen
Thanks for watching!
Just spend 50$ and buy the peoper crimping tool man
Which one don't you like?
@@AnthonyJ350 the one crushed with the vise 😭😭
@@AutodidactEngineer You didn't watch the whole video did you...
@@AutodidactEngineer You do realize I show a hydraulic crimper for large gauge wires at the end right?
@@AnthonyJ350 aparently not 🙃
No need for grease ! Period
Did you just like your own comment? What is fundamentally wrong using dielectric grease where condensation may be a concern in a vehicle?
Before we go down this black hole of a debate. Please tell everyone your work experience to give context (aircraft, boats, automotive). And tell us how you've seen consistent failure by adding dielectric grease and what you think is happening due to using it.
YOHB? Waiting for your answer transmission. Over.
"...So you can see..." No, I can't see anything. Either you're holding the object up out of cam view or your hands are in the way.
Cool, go somewhere else.
673 other people can understand what I was demonstrating. Then there's you... Watching the video on a tiny phone instead of a computer monitor....
Ring terminal in a vise isn’t controversial. Nobody knowledgeable in the field will ever recommend it. So, no controversy: it is a pure hack job.
Thanks for the feedback
Got any videos or pictures of the installs you're working on? Like to learn from how other people are doing it.
@@AnthonyJ350 I’m retired and have no access to my former work. I will be installed the electrical system on the airplane I am building, but probably not until later this year. Just finishing the airframe now and still have FWF and paint to do before most of the electrical and avionics.
@@LTVoyager Did you watch the CAF video I sent on how he crimps large ferrule connectors?
@@AnthonyJ350 Yes. I watched it. I give him a B- as he is using ferrules which is more than most seem to do, but using the set screw to “crimp” them, and he even said “crimp” in a way that suggested he knows he isn’t really crimping, keeps him out of the A range. If you were to take one if his “set screw crimped” ferrules and section it and acid etch it and then view it under a microscope or magnifier, you would see that at best probably 1/3 of the strands are actually compressed together and the ones on both sides will still be largely round in cross section and not compressed “gas tight”.
Sorry dud, that cheap hydraulic tool doesnt work reliably. Try crimping a 6mm2 tube type lug. If the cable od is smaller and/or the ring lug is thin walled that cable will just pull out. Soldering essential, and hard work - needs a lot of heat. Also that tool needs a two man job its really difficult to get the wire/lug held in right place in the anvil jaws and the operate the piston handle TWO MEN needed RUBBISH. The hex shape transverse has no ridges to hole the wire
But I'm not. I'm doing copper lugs that are 4 gauge and it works in first responder, construction and show vehicles.
You can use the anvil style crimper by yourself if you put it into a press I found.
I have taken the copper (Tinned or not) & drilled 2 holes with a 18” drill bit & while placing the lug in the vise & holding the wire in in the rear of it -Ring hole up- heated that lug up & ran my older down into those holes & made perfect solder connections all day👍
Just an opinion but putting such sound system in a car is a fad. People that do it are sheep trying to keep up with the Jones’ and be cool. Succinctly put…. It’s stupid.
Maybe they just earn way more money than you and can afford these luxuries. High end clean sounds systems are not a fad. Everyone likes music.
I just need to know. Do you find yourself complaining at least once every time you hang out with your friends? Ask your best friend if they think you complain a lot. The answer might surprise you.
@@AnthonyJ350
I’ve kinda’ run out of things that I really want to buy. In the past few months I’ve spent at least $25K on a new dog and a van I’m turning into a camper. I could have put that into a sound system for BMW but, as I said, it’s just a sheepish fad. I guess coolness is measured by the ability of your sound system to make your hair move.
@@Zerpersande You can build a nice system for $3K...
Noone is asking you to spend 5 figures on a sound system.
Want a way to prevent the wire from coming out of a terminal? Use a crimp tool. Properly crimped you would NOT able to pull the wire out by hand. In fact you could hang yourself from it. Those techniques are amateurish at best. I’m not saying the for audio purposes that they will not work, but why the hell would you even SHOW those techniques?