Yes, I think I’ve made every single one of these mistakes, I had no idea what the colours represented, and no idea there was a tool to actually crimp these properly other than pliers 😀 great video with lots of information 👍👍
As a teenager, didn't have good crimpers, would pull the insulated part off, use pliers to crimp, then heat shrink or tape the connector. I'd even solder them if I couldn't get a crimp tight enough.
Per industrial standards (IPC620) as well as most manufacturer's guidelines there should not be wire extending through the barrel towards the ring or fork as shown in the video. Wire should be flush with the barrel.
I used to be electrician/technician and my hands looked just like yours with many small wounds. It's hard to do electrical work while wearing gloves. I do crimp connections just like you so to but I always put conductive grease on the wire before I crimp it. I prefer soldered connections if possible.
I hear ya. I finally found a pair of gloves thin enough for me to work with small parts. MaxiFlex makes a model called Elite, intended for workers doing electronics assembly. First pair of gloves this sweaty guy can wear all day without even thinking of taking them off.
I confess, I have had to use too large of crimp connector so I stripped extra insulation off, gave them a twist, then folded the wires over to double up the amount of wire for crimping. Probably not a good practice but seems to work ok. Great video though, nice explanation on everything. 👍
Thank you for the video! I've never done wiring work before but I've 3d printed the case for an arcade fight stick video game controller and I needed to add a few buttons for pinball controls. I had a rough knowledge of how it worked, but this helped me avoid any issues.
Great video. I’m putting 14 gauge connectors onto speaker wire and I wasted about 4-6 of the connectors because I didn’t do extensive research beforehand (fortunately I purchased a 100 pack of both and I haven’t cut the wire at the reel side yet lol, I knew that was gonna end up coming in handy)
Allowing backpressure of the big picture (the whole job) to interfere with somones attention to detail can cause all kinds of problems. Something as small as crimping can sabotage the install. Proper tool for the job. Heard that for decades. Good stuff. Thanks.
I do a bit of electronics and have that same Klein tool and another one from Vise Grip - that is an automated wire stripper. Several companies make them. IMO, if you find yourself stripping wire and making / adding connectors these are well worth the investment. It will make all your work better, cleaner and easier and you won't get so frustrated with yourself. All the cable cuts and crimps will turn out perfect every time.
I was wondering if you or someone on here could recommend crimpers for insulated terminals and heat shrink terminals. Should I go with 2 sets of crimpers or get a set with interchangeable heads ? The heat shrink would be for utility trailer lights and the insulated would be for a low current application on the interior of a Boler rv trailer. Thanks for the video. I will be using it. Lol. I very seldom crimp and generally solder so I don't want to break the bank.
I think the reason why the crimp produced at 9:45 by the cheaper tooth-and-slot crimping tool isn't as flattened as the crimp produced by the Klein crimping tool is that the slot of the cheaper tool is curved, while the slots of the Klein (shown at 12:43) are flat. With the cheaper tool, I would crimp twice... first using the slot area to start the crimp, and then using a flat area of the tool to complete the flattening.
@@RVH-io3dr I dunno. I’m a ridiculous nerd who has spent entirely unhealthy amounts of my free time gorging on connector information, and have actually looked at old military and NASA electronics training materials (going back to the 1940s at least), and I don’t ever recall having seen any recommendations to tin before crimping. Early materials (1950s) were still skeptical of crimping and treated it as borderline experimental; when they did start adopting it in the 60s, the requirements were already more or less the same as today’s. I do remember finding _some_ instruction in the old manuals that diametrically contradicted modern recommendations, but I don’t remember what it was. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t this exact issue, though. What I can say with certainty is that today’s electronics technician training - I graduated in 2023 - and the current military and aerospace standards all concur that crimping onto solder-tinned wire is an absolute no-no. Same with screw terminals: tinning with solder is strictly prohibited. (It is OK with spring clamp terminals like WAGO, since the spring will automatically compensate for any cold flow.)
It depends on the application. For electrical in small gauge that isnt going to see stress or vibration, I tend to crimp, pull back the plastic crimp sheath and solder to the connector. Put sheath back and done. If its higher amperage or vibration prone, I dont solder at all. Soldering doesnt work as well, if wire heat cycles and sees vibration. I'd be reluctant to solder wire first and THEN crimp. Solder is soft and not very stable. As mentioned by tookitogo, you introduce other problems by doing it that way. I used to tin/solder then crimp for years. I do believe I was doing it improperly. Obviously its not such a big deal that I noticed immediately. I dont know tho, maybe overtime it is problematic. Plenty of industry standards about all of it, for sure.
I had to use a large crimp connector with a small wire in my car because I was going to ground and the ground screw was really large. What should I have done?
I'll say remove more insulation from the wire you are adding then fold the excess wire in a zig-zag pattern or roll it on to itself properly give you more wire for your crimper to crimp on and get a better wire crimping done with the small wire on to the larger crimp connector, that's the best way to make the most of what you have at hand the best.
You can buy terminals with huge rings or forks, but for small wire. You won’t find these at your local hardware store, but well-stocked mail-order electrical/electronics distributors (like Digi-Key) have them. If your terminal is for somewhat larger wire (e.g. 2x the cross section), folding it back once is an accepted practice. (For example, 24ga in a 20ga terminal, or 20ga in a 16ga terminal.) If you have to use a terminal for much larger wire than you are connecting, then get a short piece of the larger wire the terminal is designed for, and crimp it in with your thin wire. (For example, for a 24ga wire in an 8ga terminal, crimp a short stub of 8ga in with your 24ga.)
I use a hydraulic press to crimp since 2020. The smallest diameter wire I can use is 12AWG. So I only use 12AWG wire and bigger for everything. I just make sure the wire has a high enough strand count.
If you want reliable connections, you don’t use insulated auto style terminals. These are notoriously unreliable. If you want reliable connections, you use either open barrel terminals crimped with the proper tool that rolls the ears into the wire or closed barrel terminals crimped with a good tool such as as those made by DMC that do an 8 point crimp. Then after inspecting the crimp quality you apply shrink tubing for insulation.
I've seen comments from other channels where they said crimping isn't a good way of connecting wires. According to them they've seen many crimps fail. Every time I see those comments I wonder what tool was used to do the crimping and whether or not they had follow some other practices. Even NASA likes crimping and they have specific procedures and practices to follow for correct crimping. It's the same thing with soldering. To do it correctly there are certain practices to follow for a good soldering job.
Just like anything if done correctly it is a great way of connecting wires in specific situations. No different than installing a wire nut or any other splicing device.
I really feel you should have shown the Klein have an alternate set of crimping teeth for the non-insulated terminals. Otherwise, this was a great beginners crimping video.
Some people question if they should take advice if my hands show no sign of injury since that is very common with it and now I have someone wondering if they can take the advice because I do have some minor cuts from working with it. I can't win! 🤣
At the 5 min mark where you were showing how to properly place the wire you crimped the connector backwards. The indention should be on the side of the connector away from the seam.
@@KE5ZZO You better do your homework. This hasn’t been true for probably 40 years. Most lead terminals are swaged at the factory, which is essentially a crimp on steroids. Steel or copper terminals are crimped as is clearly stated in this AC Delco video that is 11 years old so crimping has been in use a long time in the auto world. Same in the aviation world. Crimps everywhere, no solder. ruclips.net/video/PaBu7qywBIQ/видео.htmlsi=b7HFI_ipv5rFYZeA
I solder wire into ring terminals and use heat shrink tubing, and it is superior to all other forms of compression crimping. I make battery systems with lithium cells and Solar equipment, and I can’t afford to make bad connections that even if they got wet they would not fail
Soldering is not superior to crimping. Its been proven time and time again a proper solder is still inferior to a proper crimp. The fact you think soldering is superior, explains why you're soldering.
None that you have shown is correct. First, dump that crimper and buy something decent, second, the copper is not supposed to stick out at the top, it's supposed to be level. And it's not any kind of vision, but standards from civilized countries.
@@LTVoyager 100% agree. I’ve given up on cheap crimp tools and terminals, and just buy name brand. I have managed to buy various crimp tools from TE, Molex, and DMC on auction sites (some used, many brand new) for a fraction of the original price.
I am curious, have you ever caught yourself making any of these mistakes? Some are actually quite common!
Yes, I think I’ve made every single one of these mistakes, I had no idea what the colours represented, and no idea there was a tool to actually crimp these properly other than pliers 😀 great video with lots of information 👍👍
As a teenager, didn't have good crimpers, would pull the insulated part off, use pliers to crimp, then heat shrink or tape the connector. I'd even solder them if I couldn't get a crimp tight enough.
Per industrial standards (IPC620) as well as most manufacturer's guidelines there should not be wire extending through the barrel towards the ring or fork as shown in the video. Wire should be flush with the barrel.
I used to be electrician/technician and my hands looked just like yours with many small wounds. It's hard to do electrical work while wearing gloves. I do crimp connections just like you so to but I always put conductive grease on the wire before I crimp it. I prefer soldered connections if possible.
I hear ya. I finally found a pair of gloves thin enough for me to work with small parts. MaxiFlex makes a model called Elite, intended for workers doing electronics assembly. First pair of gloves this sweaty guy can wear all day without even thinking of taking them off.
Would that be like bulb grease? Who manufactures a good product under what name? Thanks
@@lwfeaganthanks for the tip! 🫡
I confess, I have had to use too large of crimp connector so I stripped extra insulation off, gave them a twist, then folded the wires over to double up the amount of wire for crimping. Probably not a good practice but seems to work ok.
Great video though, nice explanation on everything. 👍
Thats fine to do. Just as long as you dont cut wire to make it fit into a smaller connector.
Heh heh... I've done that! 😁
Thank you for the video! I've never done wiring work before but I've 3d printed the case for an arcade fight stick video game controller and I needed to add a few buttons for pinball controls. I had a rough knowledge of how it worked, but this helped me avoid any issues.
Great video. I’m putting 14 gauge connectors onto speaker wire and I wasted about 4-6 of the connectors because I didn’t do extensive research beforehand (fortunately I purchased a 100 pack of both and I haven’t cut the wire at the reel side yet lol, I knew that was gonna end up coming in handy)
Thank you so much. I'm new with this sort of stuff, and you answered my questions. I played your video twice. Appreciate your video 🤝💃
👍Ratchet crimpers are the best, you can get different dies to crimp a variety of things.
Love your videos. I've made some of the mistakes you've called out for sure.
Allowing backpressure of the big picture (the whole job) to interfere with somones attention to detail can cause all kinds of problems. Something as small as crimping can sabotage the install.
Proper tool for the job. Heard that for decades.
Good stuff. Thanks.
Great video, thanks for sharing. One of the few videos that bothers to point out that a terminal has a top and bottom…
Always something to learn, thanks
I do a bit of electronics and have that same Klein tool and another one from Vise Grip - that is an automated wire stripper. Several companies make them. IMO, if you find yourself stripping wire and making / adding connectors these are well worth the investment. It will make all your work better, cleaner and easier and you won't get so frustrated with yourself. All the cable cuts and crimps will turn out perfect every time.
I was wondering if you or someone on here could recommend crimpers for insulated terminals and heat shrink terminals. Should I go with 2 sets of crimpers or get a set with interchangeable heads ? The heat shrink would be for utility trailer lights and the insulated would be for a low current application on the interior of a Boler rv trailer. Thanks for the video. I will be using it. Lol. I very seldom crimp and generally solder so I don't want to break the bank.
Amazing video!! Thank you
I think the reason why the crimp produced at 9:45 by the cheaper tooth-and-slot crimping tool isn't as flattened as the crimp produced by the Klein crimping tool is that the slot of the cheaper tool is curved, while the slots of the Klein (shown at 12:43) are flat. With the cheaper tool, I would crimp twice... first using the slot area to start the crimp, and then using a flat area of the tool to complete the flattening.
I like to tin the wire. A little solder on the wire makes a sturdy area for the crimp to take hold.
Never, ever do this!!! Solder cold-flows under pressure, so it’ll be nice and tight initially, but will loosen over time.
@@tookitogo Maybe times have changed. That is what I was taught in High reliability soldering course back in the day.
@@RVH-io3dr I dunno. I’m a ridiculous nerd who has spent entirely unhealthy amounts of my free time gorging on connector information, and have actually looked at old military and NASA electronics training materials (going back to the 1940s at least), and I don’t ever recall having seen any recommendations to tin before crimping. Early materials (1950s) were still skeptical of crimping and treated it as borderline experimental; when they did start adopting it in the 60s, the requirements were already more or less the same as today’s. I do remember finding _some_ instruction in the old manuals that diametrically contradicted modern recommendations, but I don’t remember what it was. I’m pretty sure it wasn’t this exact issue, though.
What I can say with certainty is that today’s electronics technician training - I graduated in 2023 - and the current military and aerospace standards all concur that crimping onto solder-tinned wire is an absolute no-no. Same with screw terminals: tinning with solder is strictly prohibited. (It is OK with spring clamp terminals like WAGO, since the spring will automatically compensate for any cold flow.)
It depends on the application. For electrical in small gauge that isnt going to see stress or vibration, I tend to crimp, pull back the plastic crimp sheath and solder to the connector. Put sheath back and done. If its higher amperage or vibration prone, I dont solder at all. Soldering doesnt work as well, if wire heat cycles and sees vibration. I'd be reluctant to solder wire first and THEN crimp. Solder is soft and not very stable. As mentioned by tookitogo, you introduce other problems by doing it that way. I used to tin/solder then crimp for years. I do believe I was doing it improperly. Obviously its not such a big deal that I noticed immediately. I dont know tho, maybe overtime it is problematic. Plenty of industry standards about all of it, for sure.
You obviously dont understand crimping.
Awesome information as always! Thank you 😊
Are crimping tools
heads same for terminal end connectors and butt connectors used for splice
Do you use the ratcheting klein tool for un-insulated connectors as well?
Great info thanks for sharing.
can these type of connectors be used with a crimper which compresses all 4 sides at once, like the ones Knippex make?
Excellent video thanks!
Great to know the difference in the crimp tool, I was using it on the wrong sided. Can always trust advice from scarred hands
I prefer non-insulated terminals. Crimp and solder, then use heat shrink tube with heat activated sealer. Obviously takes longer but lasts forever.
I had to use a large crimp connector with a small wire in my car because I was going to ground and the ground screw was really large. What should I have done?
I'll say remove more insulation from the wire you are adding then fold the excess wire in a zig-zag pattern or roll it on to itself properly give you more wire for your crimper to crimp on and get a better wire crimping done with the small wire on to the larger crimp connector, that's the best way to make the most of what you have at hand the best.
You can buy terminals with huge rings or forks, but for small wire. You won’t find these at your local hardware store, but well-stocked mail-order electrical/electronics distributors (like Digi-Key) have them.
If your terminal is for somewhat larger wire (e.g. 2x the cross section), folding it back once is an accepted practice. (For example, 24ga in a 20ga terminal, or 20ga in a 16ga terminal.)
If you have to use a terminal for much larger wire than you are connecting, then get a short piece of the larger wire the terminal is designed for, and crimp it in with your thin wire. (For example, for a 24ga wire in an 8ga terminal, crimp a short stub of 8ga in with your 24ga.)
I use a hydraulic press to crimp since 2020. The smallest diameter wire I can use is 12AWG. So I only use 12AWG wire and bigger for everything. I just make sure the wire has a high enough strand count.
If you need hydraulics to crimp 12G wire, you need a gym membership.
If you want reliable connections, you don’t use insulated auto style terminals. These are notoriously unreliable. If you want reliable connections, you use either open barrel terminals crimped with the proper tool that rolls the ears into the wire or closed barrel terminals crimped with a good tool such as as those made by DMC that do an 8 point crimp. Then after inspecting the crimp quality you apply shrink tubing for insulation.
as a professional ag auto electrician^tm if it fits it ships, as long as she passes the tug test shes golden
Those are 'Sta-Kon' type terminals... for eons 'Thomas & Betts' has been the premier name in crimpers.
I've seen comments from other channels where they said crimping isn't a good way of connecting wires. According to them they've seen many crimps fail. Every time I see those comments I wonder what tool was used to do the crimping and whether or not they had follow some other practices.
Even NASA likes crimping and they have specific procedures and practices to follow for correct crimping. It's the same thing with soldering. To do it correctly there are certain practices to follow for a good soldering job.
Just like anything if done correctly it is a great way of connecting wires in specific situations. No different than installing a wire nut or any other splicing device.
A good crimp beats a good solder.
@@SOLDOZER Yep. Even repairs to wires on airplanes are to be done by crimping.
You’re a genius
Wow. The stuff I didn’t know I didn’t know.
A video on quality insulateed and non insulated connectors and butt plugs. Compare them to cheap amascam ones and the dangers of using them
This in not the place to post video on butt plugs.
I really feel you should have shown the Klein have an alternate set of crimping teeth for the non-insulated terminals. Otherwise, this was a great beginners crimping video.
I showed both sets of teeth on it and explained them.
good info
See ya!
What's with all the hand injuries? Wondering if I should be taking advice here..🤔
Some people question if they should take advice if my hands show no sign of injury since that is very common with it and now I have someone wondering if they can take the advice because I do have some minor cuts from working with it. I can't win! 🤣
Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Have a nice weekend
By heat gun insulator can remove and put in place after shrinking.
its also a good idea to not have a few snorts of scotch before crimping....
🤣 Fair point!
At the 5 min mark where you were showing how to properly place the wire you crimped the connector backwards. The indention should be on the side of the connector away from the seam.
I just put wire in terminal slide off plastic cover. Solder wire to connector slide back on color cover. Crimp is unreliable solder isn’t
An improper solder joint is very unreliable. A cold solder joint is worse than a poorly crimped connection.
@@LTVoyager an experienced person does not do cold solder joint.
@@KE5ZZO An experienced person doesn’t do a bad crimp either.
@@LTVoyager hmmm let see auto manufacturers do not crimp battery cables. They are soldered because crimp come loose over time
@@KE5ZZO You better do your homework. This hasn’t been true for probably 40 years. Most lead terminals are swaged at the factory, which is essentially a crimp on steroids. Steel or copper terminals are crimped as is clearly stated in this AC Delco video that is 11 years old so crimping has been in use a long time in the auto world. Same in the aviation world. Crimps everywhere, no solder. ruclips.net/video/PaBu7qywBIQ/видео.htmlsi=b7HFI_ipv5rFYZeA
I solder wire into ring terminals and use heat shrink tubing, and it is superior to all other forms of compression crimping. I make battery systems with lithium cells and Solar equipment, and I can’t afford to make bad connections that even if they got wet they would not fail
Soldering is not superior to crimping. Its been proven time and time again a proper solder is still inferior to a proper crimp. The fact you think soldering is superior, explains why you're soldering.
Super class I poor man I want a terminal crimping tool please sent
0:01 most dyi people? Hahah trust me I was an electrician and a lot of those people wouldn't know that either.
Nec stats wire not to be twisted more than the natural lay of the wire.
If you can't reference it, it is a lie.
Hee hee hee hee...
You said butt
🤣
💙
Unrelated ~ but, Are there WAY more ADVERTISEMENTS than there used to be? Some even MUST watch til the end..😠
I dunno. That would be a question for RUclips.
Man, cover up that blood on your fingers. I can send you a couple bandages if you need!
Go have some soy milk
Maybe should wait to do the video while you're not bleeding?
Maybe it happened while making the video. Aside from that, what difference does it make? Not uncommon when working with wire.
not supposed to twist
JESUS!! FRIGGIN ADS BRO!!!😕
Bend the wire
None that you have shown is correct. First, dump that crimper and buy something decent, second, the copper is not supposed to stick out at the top, it's supposed to be level. And it's not any kind of vision, but standards from civilized countries.
Nothing you said was fact or correct. You are probably not from the US, which this video is more directed towards.
@@HowToHomeDIY The way the connectors are crimped is determined by international standards, not your ridiculous NEMA which is about 50 years behind.
@kikiv1993 thank you for confirming what I suspected. You don’t live here and don’t know our codes and procedures. You’re incorrect.
You need better grimping tool not chinese.
It’s not Chinese.
If it's important, I crimp and solder!
If it is important, I use a good open or closed barrel terminal crimped with a good ratcheting crimp tool such as made by DMC.
@@LTVoyager 100% agree. I’ve given up on cheap crimp tools and terminals, and just buy name brand. I have managed to buy various crimp tools from TE, Molex, and DMC on auction sites (some used, many brand new) for a fraction of the original price.
@@tookitogo Yes, a good used DMC tool will work better and last longer than a brand new chinesium tool.
@@LTVoyager Yep. Heck, a worn-out DMC/Molex/Amphenol/TE/JST tool will perform better than a new chinesium one!