Why Crimp & Seal Butt Connectors FAIL!
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- Опубликовано: 6 май 2024
- In this video I bring you along to share with you the reason that I see crimp and seal butt connectors fail, especially here in the salt belt. As many of you know I really like using these connectors and I think and have found over time they do work really well. HOWEVER, if you crimp them wrong, they will 100% fail. Pay attention to the portion of your crimping tool that you are using, and you won't have an issue.
-Enjoy!
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Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained. 
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I worked avionics for over 45 years before retiring. The avionics grade method was to use uninsulated butt end crimps with a separate piece of heat shrink such as the TE Connectivity D-436-37 Blue Environmental Butt Splice heat shrink. Using uninsulated crimps has two advantages. Firstly, it allows you to see the condition of the mechanical crimp prior to heat shrinking. Also, it eliminates the risk of damage to the heat shrink when crimping. It's a better method all around.
It does have ONE limitation...you gotta have space for the separate heat shrink. I have seen a number of Eric O's repairs where that would be hard (rarely impossible) to come by.
I prefer that way, it looks cleaner. I personally do it both ways, but i wont fall out of the sky and die.
That's how Wrenching with Kenny does it.
I always used that method as well, and was taught that in A&P school, but now airlines are getting more and more approval to use these with the caviat of calibrating the crimp tools a little more frequently
I solder all my connections then heat shrink it.
Everything is junk if you don't use it correctly. Always appreciate your common sense approach.
100%
Every machine is a smoke machine if you operate it incorrectly enough.
@@RobertL78I don’t get it
@@weldingjunkie Short your weldingmachine, by stick rod and not taking it of, or in mig weld short nozzle , and let it be there, and you find out. And sorry if my writing is defeckt and incorrect, because english is my third language, and also not so much used in written mode.
@@jormalonnberg1578 that’s ok that’s why I asked. I get what you mean now. If you don’t take care of stuff def ends up having issues. I thought he meant making a smoke machine lol
The ratcheting crimp tool is 100% worth the investment, easy on the hands and you get the correct amount of squeeze every time.
same as the knippex strippers. i mean i do fine with the basic tool or even a box knife and pliers but if you are doing a hundred a day instead of one or two the ratchet tools are like crack. once you try them, you ain't going back.
Agreed and to Erics point, there is a reason they sell ones for insulated and non insulated connectors. Unfortunately, you either have to get two tools or the tool with the interchangeable dies.
I bought some racheting ones and I hate them. It's a dual jaw and should do the job. But it doesn't. Usually only gets one wire and then the crimp is trash😂.
I still prefer the Snapons, or in my case, the same thing for half price Carlyle. Especially when standing on your head trying to crimp something that's buried under a dash or in a door panel. Having the crimpers up front on narrow pliers is super useful. Just know what you're doing.
I don't see a die for smaller gauge white connector. I looked on their site and the kit doesn't seem to have one. I have one of these not sure of the brand but never used it. I have all the dies and bought an extra one for the 90* flag connectors. You see those on 24v HVAC applications. I haven't used butt connectors in years. I'm a solder and heat shrink guy. Going to order some of these. If anyone finds a die for the smaller gauge please point me to it. Most of these tool less interchangeable crimpers can use the same 1 of 2 die styles.
Every car audio "installer" needs to watch this.
Oh God.
Nothing like pulling a radio out and seeing a massive was of 20 of those tulip / "princess dress" style crimp connectors, and those blue squeeze style instant wire taps.
And every company that builds trailers. Every trailer I've bought here in the rust belt is with the t-taps and open connections. It lasts a year before you have to go through it and make proper connections.
@@OtisFlint yes, trailers are terrible! Even from the factory.
maybe not exo contralto 😄
I went to Rockford Tech. 1991 and were taught how to connect wires, there are no solder connections on vehicles from the factory, Were were never allowed to use scotch locks. Sometimes an equipment manufacturer recommended soldering and we would follow their recommendations.
The way we were taught at Ford training is the way you described in the video. We would use the bare barrel connectors and use the ratcheting crimpers from OTC. Then we would slide the heat shrink over the splice. The trainers at Ford said that this is the best way to go and if you ever get any pigtails from Ford, they send it with the barrels and heat shrink.
And if you wanna make your life even easier, put the connector in your pliers FIRST, grip lightly, insert wire and squeeze. It's a lot less fumbling around.
Also give the wire a little twist to make sure all the strands get inside the connector.
This is a good how-to. As an older self taught hot rodder, my test was, "pull on it" if it did not come apart it was good to go. Thanks again.
Ive been using the shrinkable but connections for years and i agree its all about the crimp. Ive seen many fail due to piercing the insulation during the crimp. On most current situations i find the red are too big. Pico makes a smaller clear one but its quite delicate. Ive switched to seamless uninsulated but sleeves and heat shrink for more critical circuits. They are also less bulky. Good video!
I agree on the red splices being too big in a lot of cases. Have you found any ratcheting crimpers that are specifically designed for the smaller clear butt splices?
If you have length to spare, strip double or triple the length and fold the wire over once or twice to bulk it up for crimping.
@scubasteve06 no I haven't and as I said they are pretty easily damaged during crimping. I've started using uninsulated splices with heat shrink.
@major__kong yes good idea.
I recently put a rearview camera, four new speakers and central locking in my car.
If I didn't have a butt-load of butt connectors and crimper, I'd still be soldering wires.
And that stripping tool is the absolute dog's bollocks. I could not live without it. I will never strip wires with a knife, my teeth or side cutters ever again.
Awhile back I purchased the exact same brand butt connectors and the matching crimper. Hands down the best I’ve ever owned.
If you support this company I must have made a wise choice, I suppose even a blind squirrel finds a nut once in a while.
As always, great information.
I really like the bare metal barrel crimps with marine grade heat shrink. They seem to work better for me. Thanks for the video because it's always nice to know how to do something correctly the first time!
I agree... separately applied sealing heat-shrink over a proper crimp or soldered connection.
Great video, Eric. Thanks for showing us how you do it! It's great that you show us the right way to do things. Love your channel!
Hey Mr O, this is a great pointer this morning. Thanks for the tips I'm definitely going to take this to heart for my electronic repair where I just use the cheapest crimper tubes.
Took me trial by fire to learn this about 7 or so years ago! I was crushing the things with the pointy crimper part (uninsulated), and saw vehicles or trailers I had done with electrical problems because of it! All the years I wrenched on cars, it took that long to figure that out, lol. Live and learn!!
I love these educational workshops, keep them coming Mr O!
It shows that you care, and your quality repairs are even in the little details.
Thanks for the information, never too old to learn something new. First time since using crimpers that I knew there was a right tool for the job, have always been using the crimpers that left the dimples. Thanks again.
Great educational video. I’ve used these several times and you enlightened me. Thanks
You rock - thanks for showing us. Of all people you deal with the green crusties up north and would know what works and does not. Others from the south such as myself we don’t have the same issues down here. I really do like to know what’s best and learning from you is undeniably one of the best ways to know what’s best.
Finally a clear how to video on proper butt connector installation! Thank you. I use the HF brand crimper, it works ok sometimes does not crimp fully and it may have to do more with different brands of connector.
As a salt water marine mechanic since 1979 I agree 👍💯
I put anticorrosion compound on copper in crimps before crimp and shrink
Put liquid electric tape over it
Best is to solder and shrink wrap critical connection like bilge pump wires etc .
Also in crimp place metal seam in correct position in tool so connector metal folds in to itself during crimp .
Usually seam goes away from point on tool
I would have to second that. On salt water boat connections I always solder and use marine grade heat shrink with the interior adhesive coating. Otherwise eventually they will fail.
As a former marine surveyor and someone who has spent a good bit of time in the rust belt there is little difference between the marine environment and the salt issues in snowy areas. In fact the salt issues in the rust belt are probably worse due to the salt being pure and being forced throughout the vehicle due to road spray. Following marine procedures in the rust belt is a good idea. Soldering on boats is a big point of contention in the marine industry due to vibration of boats under power causing failure due to the hardness of the solder. I personally never found a failed solder connection on any boat in 25 years of surveying.
NO-OX-ID A-Special. Coat it good, then heat it up and let it flow. Good for 40 years IME. Also prevents any sort of corrosion on battery terminals.
Ha - another salt water mechanic! 😉 Yeah, the ocean teaches you to do it the right way, every time.
@@snapperboat25 Oh, DUDE. I could tell you endless stories about soldered connections gone bad - including a Gozzard 50 where I had to rewire *the entire panel* precisely because those connections (all soldered) had broken loose. Poor soldering, unsecured harnesses, no drip loops... that boat's electrical system was a nightmare (well, mostly for the owner.) We were both headed for the Caribbean, and in every harbor where I crossed paths with this guy, he had yet another job for me. ☺
Thank you Mr O I’ve rarely had to do them, but knackered them every time, now I know why.
I actually really needed this right now. Thank you for this video! I’m the worst with this type of repair!
I frequent flea markets and garage sales . Many moons ago I found Thomas and Betts crimpers and wire strippers made in Elizabeth New Jersey, good ol ‘murica made stuff . From the first time that I put them in my hands, I knew right away that they were excellent quality tools.(we all know a good quality well made hand tool by the feel of it),years later and hundreds if not thousands of crimps later I haven’t looked back. Thomas and Betts combined with a pair of older Ideal stripmasters are basically all that I use now and never had a failure,
Here's my 2C, We used Butt connectors like that for years in aircraft harness's, we didn't crimp at all! But you were required to strip each end and tin the lead on both ends then clean off any flux residue, line up both ends inside the splice so the wires are on top of each other, then shrink with a heat gun that had an adapter on the nozzle, heat the piece till the solder flow's and the ends are sealed. This was an inspected piece conforming to the Weapon Spec, which I don't remember the number now, haven't done those in many moons. That is how, in manufacturing a harness we HAD to do it. Never had a failure that I am aware of! You do you, it works great.
"We used Butt connectors like that" No, you did not. Those are not crimp and seal connectors. If you did the attachment as you described with crimp and seal it would fail.
Solder and seal connectors are a whole different animal. The high spec ones are super convenient and nice to use, but near impossible these days to find . The retail ones are still convenient but few (so far) in my experience hold up in environments where temps are consistently over 130f.
@@michaelkrenzer3296 fastenal still carries the solder seal connectors. Bought them accidentally once.
As a retired crew chief in the Air Force, no butt connectors were allowed. We had to replace the wire or harness
That is interesting, but not a butt connection, as the wires overlap. (a lap, rather than butt joint) Where soldering in aviation, such as terminals for a radio installation RE: solder, Tin conductor for about half its exposed length.
This is enough to take advantage of the closed part of
solder cup. Tinning or solder on wire above the cup
causes wire to be stiff at point where flexing takes
place. This will result in wire breakage.
Today we mostly use crimped connectors.
@@robertheinkel6225 That's because you were a "Crew Chief" and not a repair depot. Depot or manufacturer will document damage and do an approved repair and tag part as repaired. Be glad you didn't have to do these things in the field.
Great video, I actually just got that better crimper earlier this year, been using that red one for years
Thank you SMA. Wish I'd learned this years ago but happy now to understand.
I really don't have a favorite or preferred method for making connections. It really depends on several factors. Where are you making the connection? Is it easy to access with plenty of room or is it a PITA where you have very little room? What is the environment, like will it be soaking in salt water constantly? Regardless of the method, crimp and seal, non-insulated or solder with shrink wrap, make sure you perform your chosen connection properly. Be proficient in all methods of making connections and you will always be able to make a good connection, which is the end goal in my humble opinion. You demonstrated how to make a flawless crimp and seal connection. Thank you for another very informative video. No matter how long I've been spinning wrenches I never stop reviewing basic repairs because somebody always has a better way to do it.
Thank you SMA
Eastwood makes a pair of ratcheting crimpers that grab from the front when there isn’t enough wire or room to get it from the side. I saw them at their local store here and bought them for just those times like u see the dashboard.
Nice demonstration as always Eric!
I used to hate crimp connectors for the exact reasons Eric mentioned...until I purchased proper crimper tools...now I love them :)
Great video Eric as always, and great tip on the crimpers. I use the Snapon crimpers and I have made the same mistake.
Thanks for your time sir
Great tip Eric O. I use the soldiering method with heat shrink tubing.. its all good.
Proper use and procedure is key ...thanks Eric !
Thanks for the video Mr.O!
Lesson learned !! I've been doing it wrong for a long, long, time. Thanks !!!
In the 80's in the UK, we crimped a metal terminal with crimp tool , then slid insulated sleeve over the crimp on male and female terminal connections, these are as you say great if you crimp correctly, great video for plenty people thanks Eric ❤
I have worked with crimp connectors for many years. If you use the correct crimp tool for the correct colour then all is good. Great video and explanation.😊
Best automotive channel on youtube!
Thanks for the video Eric.
Great informative video Mr. O!
Educational as always. Thanks Mr O 🧐
Thank you, Eric, nice class on crimping 101
Great educational content today!
Timely video. I'm doing some wiring on my boat. Thamks
great info! Thanks Dr. O.....
Using the proper tooling is the key to making proper crimped connections. I work in the electronics field, and have accumulated an entire toolbox drawer full of nothing but various crimping and pin extraction tools for all the different types of connectors I work with.
Thank you for another great video. Cheers
Thanks for the info Mr O.
I have had good luck using the channel lock brand crimper. Depending on the application, I go one step further and put a piece of shrink tubing over the repair. Especially on my semi trailer lights.
Great topic bro, I’m always trying to perfect my crimping style and it depends on the gauge of the wire. I use my knipex mini wrench pliers to crimp since they don’t penetrate the shielding. Here in California there’s not much salt or moisture but I try to be profesional in every crimp.
I started using them to replace the scotch locks on my trailer. Yup bought one of those $10 butane lighters too. Thanks Mr O.
Good work!
I was always using the non insulated crimping portion until you brought it up previously. I thought it would give a tighter crimp!
Very good video!
I do these the same (marine work) and have found that a tiny bit of schmoo (dielectric grease, Corrosion-X, etc) on the wire end before sliding the crimp on improves your chances even more. The crimps must have adhesive shrink tube, ie seeing a little ring of goo around the edge once you've heated.
Also - I vote for a heat gun with the curved deflector attachment - good if there's wind involved, and helps protect adjacent wiring and other surfaces.
Good advice. I like your wedding band. I use....after decades of dealing with a gold one.....a silicon band and I love it. Comfortable, safe, cool/black.
Never wore a wedding band. No need for it. 😅😅
So funny you posted this today, last Friday I fixed an 09 Yukon with a P2135 (TPS 1 & 2 correlation). Someone had replaced the throttle body and connector and used the same connectors with the peg type crimper. Took huge chunks out of the plastic where it was crimped and it was green and corroded. Of course the excessive resistance skewed the TPS sensor readings and threw the P2135. I didn't take a chance of that one and just soldered and used heat shrink, though a properly applied crimp connector would have been fine too. And I love my ratcheting crimper! One of the best tools I ever bought for wiring repairs.
Wow Thank you Erik
Great video, use them very often Thanks..
I appreciate your video Mr Eric. Have a good day yourself sir
Great tip! Thanks Eric O 😉👍
thanks for the info Eric; I generally used the "pierce" jaws to be sure of the connection. lesson learned
Great video. My father was a electrician. He explained this to me exactly as you have. Great information all techs should know.
To each there own. I used to do the bare crimp and double wall shrink tubeing. Takes much more time plus you need more wire space available. Both seel well if done correctly. I have also used shrink crimps with sadder in them. Also worked well.
@@stevefortune4315Chrysler engineering has issued at tip tech 20 years ago, brass crimps, solder and the Chrysler heat shrink tubes to seal everything
Got it, many thanks.
Thanks for crimp class and allowing me to bask in the glow of the internet on fire this morning. 😊 Going to be 96 here today....not blaming you though. 😊
Thanks Eric.
Good information, thanks.
It's the simple things and attention to detail.
Thanks
Thanks for the quick video! I have found that with any of the Jungle Site connectors the quality control isn't very good, some connectors in the batch just don't hold well. I seem to have better luck with an uninsulated connector and a piece of adhesive lined heat shrink.
So true thanks for sharing
I love the "Ideal" brand yellow handled crimps, even better than the Klines. The insulated crimp area is right up top under the snip portion, and not at the bottom. 90% of my everyday crimping is going to be on an insulated connector. The small snapons are really nice also but not for anything bigger than a 10-12 connector ✌🏼
Thanks Eric! Great video as always
Taking a good look at the results and adjusting your method goes a long way. I noticed the same problem with my Mac (identical to the SnapOn) crimpers and no more issues once i watched closer what i was doing.
Me and my dad have been using them for 17 years, they are great! They are all I use now.
I have the Mac pair basically same thing as snap on i work for ford and always use the barrel connector with the shrink wrap but I have seen previous repairs fail from wiring issues
Well done Mr. O.
Thanks for posting this.
Been beating that drum myself for a while.
Attention to detail is the difference between a tech and a hack.
Great video Eric thanks for the info ..keep up the really good videos like always
Great stuff, Mr. O.
Very helpful! As always, you the best.
I am a big fan of "do it right the first time" thanks for the lesson!
A lot of people may not like these kind of connectors, BUTT, I would say the way you show to install them should work great!
Had good luck with the recent solder in the connector versions that I see advertised often from other channels. Hold up well and no crimp perforation to worry about.
Glad to see an accurate public service announcement for the correct use of the sealed crimp fittings. only thing we use in the marine industry. At least where I work and have worked.
great tip thanx
Very important video.
Good instructional video................
Thanks for the great video!
Very good thanks, haven't even thought of damaging the insulation
Great info, found them on Amazon. As a kit W/tools or separate for a great price.
Thanks for the education!
Yep, this is the place to learn an everyday crimping experience. I learn something new everyday working with Eric.
Thanks for sharing
Nice. Having worked more than 30 years in the electronics industry, I can not even count how many times I've seen failures (of all varieties) because people didn't know what they were doing. In my initial training class with the company I worked for, the instructors spent a lot of time going over connections. The types, the tools, the proper way etc.. This video gave me a flashback to that lol. I still recall the instructor saying "this is what people will do and it is why it will fail". What you are saying here is correct. Of course, the discussion of what type of connection to use in various environments is a long one and there not just one answer. Many times, the best solution is not practical or possible. Just make certain that, whatever method you use, you actually know how to do it properly.
Im glad I watched this. It makes me sad, but I am glad that I will be doing it right in the future.
In my +40 years of crimping connectors to wire, that ratcheting crimper is a GODSEND! I think how many times I had to redo and replace a terminal connection because I was unable to get a proper crimp with those crappy old school thin pliers-type crimpers. Like Eric said; they're inexpensive and they work like magic.
Get one today even if you only use it a couple of times a year. It pays for itself just for piece of mind they offer!
Thank you, Eric.I just started watching your crimp and seal connector video I hope that the product that you use is a good one. If it is, I'm buying some, thank you.
Experience plays a factor in all of this as well. I used to do commercial electrical work, and you can physically gauge how hard you need to crimp something in order to not destroy the connection. However, youtube masters don't like talking about real-world experience. Thanks Eric, will definitely be buying some to add to my toolbox. Which color do you use the most for vehicles?
Red and blue 👍🏼
@SouthMainAuto thanks! I recently purchased a brand new Toyota, so hopefully, I will not have to work on my own car for 6 or 7 years, which is weird to think about lol.
Thanks.
👏👏👏so well explain even a pre k can understand it, thank you Eric.