🔧 How to Make Jumper Wires with Dupont Connectors | DIY Tutorial
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- Опубликовано: 4 дек 2023
- 🧰 Materials Used:
*As an Amazon Associate, "Let There Be Engineering" earns from qualifying purchases*
AWG 24 silicon wires:
NESHEXST Wire Cable, 24 AWG, Silicon Wire, 6 Colors, Length 9.4 ft (9 m)
* The above product does not appear to be available on Amazon outside of Japan, but, e.g., CBAZY produce an equivalent product found here: amzn.to/4bFFdts
Dupont connectors and housings:
IWISS DUPONT 2.54 mm pitch connector kit, 1550 pcs.
* Available on Amazon: amzn.to/4eU62wZ
Wire strippers: IWISS wire strippers
* I used the above product for stripping. However, check out the following wire strippers:
Klein Tools 11057, Heavy Duty Wire Cutter Stripper for 20-30 AWG Solid Wire and 22-32 AWG Stranded Wire: amzn.to/3W0Dp8G
Jonard Tools ST-500 Adjustable Precision Wire Stripper, 20-30 AWG: amzn.to/3WhMUBw
Crimping Tool:
HOZAN P-706 crimping tool
* Avalilable on Amazon: amzn.to/4bInilK
👀 Visual Demonstrations:
Throughout the video, visual demonstrations provide a clear understanding of each step. Graphic representations illustrate the crimping action at the conductor and insulation crimping areas.
🤖 Application in DIY Projects:
See the final product - a jumper wire with a two-pin female connector at one end and separate male connectors at the other end. Such connectors will be used for testing a basic robot circuit in my DIY Autonomous Mobile Robot build project. Check the video link below.
📌 DIY Autonomous Mobile Robot Series - Part 1: • 🤖 DIY Autonomous Mobil...
📚 For more DIY tutorials and insights, don't forget to subscribe, like this video. Thank you for watching! 
Хобби
This is probably the only DuPont crimping tutorial on RUclips that I approve of. Everyone else shows chewed-up insulation crimps thanks to using entirely wrong crimping tools that use the m-shape die on the insulation. (And to boot, the most commonly shown tool’s insulation die is also too wide, so the crimps don’t fit into the housings properly until further manhandled with pliers.)
The only thing I’d change is to not recommend stripping so much of the wire, especially on the male. Even though the male pin can _usually_ tolerate an excessively long “brush” (the excess sticking out beyond the conductor crimp), some DuPont contact and housing designs* are a bit less tolerant, even on the males, resulting in the housing’s locking tab failing to fully engage, especially with thicker wire. It’s better to stick to the correct strip length (4-4.5mm for most variants) for both genders.
*There is some variation from manufacturer to manufacturer, and when ordering from AliExpress or eBay, you rarely know what you’re going to get…)
Thank you so much for your detailed feedback and kind words! Your point about the wire stripping length is well taken. I’ll pin your comment so others can benefit from your recommendation to stick to the correct strip length of 4-4.5mm for both male and female connectors.
Thanks again for your input
2:18 I highly, highly recommend getting a pair of cable shears, rather than cutting with diagonal cutters. Diagonal cutters crush the wire, flattening the bundle of strands, which then makes the wire a bit harder to insert into the contact without snagging any strands. Cable shears preserve the lay of the stranding better. And they take less force to squeeze! No need to spend a fortune; the ones I have cost $15 at the hardware store.
Thank you for your sound advice! I'll definitely get myself a pair of cable shears for next time. I appreciate you sharing this tip.
A very professional video well worth a watch .
Thank you for your positive feedback! I'm gladto hear that you found the video worthwhile.
This was so AWESOME for a newbie like me. Thanks a lot for making this!
Thank you for your positive feedback. I am glad this video was helpful!
Well Thank You Very Much. I pride myself on being able to figure it out. But, cripping these dang connectors has me perplexed. Then I saw this great simple easy to understand video. New thing #1 Crimp each segment separately. I ruined so many ends trying to crimp both at the same time. OK, New thing #2 No soldering. One friend told me he sodlers them in the connector first them crimps them. ??? True or False?
New Thing #3 it appears we can make a harness with these ends!??? Questions, If we need shorter socket joints can we use Simple ins with wire soldered to the short end to fit into the female connector??? I work in S Gage model trains we have more room than HO but I pile a lot into one engine. The wiring can get piled up in a hurry. Thank You again for the great lesson Video.
Thank you so much for your comment! I'm glad the video was helpful to you. Yes, crimping each segment separately is crucial for a good connection. Crimping both at the same time often leads to poor connections and damaged ends. I think there are crimping tools out there that can simultaneously crimp the conductor section and the insulation section properly, but they are probably quite expensive. It's generally not necessary to solder the wires before crimping. Crimping alone should provide a strong mechanical and reliable connection if done correctly. Soldering can potentially cause issues in tight spaces. So, I think it's better to stick with crimping only, but even if you do, never before crimping IMO, because the solder would likely interfere with the conductor section and not crimp properly.
S gage model trains - awesome! Yes, you can make a harness by inserting multiple DuPont connectors into respective housings of the harness. About creating shorter socket joints. Yes, I suppose you can use simple pins or connectors and solder them to a short length of wire to fit into the female Dupont connector if you have no space for a male DuPont connector. Just ensure that they fit snugly into the female Dupont housing. Maybe you can use heat shrink tubing over the soldered joint to provide additional insulation and support.
nice&clear, thx!
Thank you for your feedback! Glad my video was easy to understand.
1:29 Remember also that AWG refers to the cross-sectional area of a wire, not its diameter, so due to the air gaps, stranded wires have a slightly larger overall diameter than the same-AWG solid wire. Most wire strippers are labeled for solid wire, in which case you typically have to go up one gauge for stranded wire. E.g. for 24AWG stranded, you’d use the 22AWG blade. Silicone wire usually has finer stranding, which can also slightly increase the overall diameter of the conductor. So sometimes you need to go up two gauges. Also, it’s possible the tool is fine, but the wire insulation itself isn’t properly centered around the conductor, which can also lead to damaged strands. Finally, cut strands can also be due to suboptimal technique. When using this style of wire stripper, I often like to close the handle all the way to cut the insulation, but then release it ever so slightly before pulling off the insulation.
That is AWESOME advice! I really appreciate your input!
P.S. Klein Tools’ Klein-Kurve strippers actually have markings for both solid and stranded.
With that said, for small wires like used in DuPont, there’s a specific style of precision wire stripper I like (sold by CK as the 330011), since it lets you set a very precise depth stop to very short strip lengths, works with even difficult insulation types (like Teflon, irradiated PVC or PE, or Kapton), and keeps the wire straight. That and the Knipex MultiStrip 10 fully-automatic stripper, but it’s only for “normal” easy-to-strip insulation materials like PVC, most silicone, and newfangled ones like mPPE.
At work, another department has a costs-more-than-my-first-two-cars-combined wire stripping machine, which is glorious, but they annoyingly won’t let me take it home. :p It’s actually for stripping small coaxial cables, so it can be programmed with the exact strip lengths and depths for each layer of the cable, but it’s also what I used for some difficult wires when I worked in that department.
Wow, the precision wire stripper you mentioned is very appealing (CK 330011), but very pricey where I live (Japan). That costs-more-than-your-first-two-cars-combined “programmable” wire stripping machine sounds awesome, too!
@@lettherebeengineering How much is “very pricey” for the CK? They’ve been in short supply for years (i have two - one of that model, one of the model for slightly smaller wires - and it took 2 months to get the one, 6 for the other!) so the prices on them have been going up…
That's interesting to hear how long it took for you to aquire the CKs. Upon further investigation, my initial search on Amazon was way over priced at over 27,000 yen, or 189 US dollars. Whereas, I searched elsewhere and found the same CK at only 7800 yen, or 44 US dollars, which seems quite reasonable!
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Glad you enjoyed the video!
hi how do i connect a 4 pin connector to a 8 pin connector or 8pin to 4 pin
One way would be to split one wire into two branches by stripping a 10mm mid-section of the insulation of one wire say about 30mm from the end, strip the end of another much-shorter wire, solder the end of the shorter wire to the exposed wire of the mid-section, cover the exposed soldered bare wires with heat-shrink, also strip the end of the first wire. Make four sets of such wires, attach DuPont connectors to all of the single ends and then connect each single end to a 4-pin DuPont housing, then attach DuPont connectors to all the double ends (with separate DuPont connectors) and then connect these double ends to the 8-pin housing. I hope I have understood your question correctly.
Horrible audio!
I would prefer to say “inexpensive audio!”😄Yeah, I'm on a budget. But I realized my phone was doing a better job that my cheap mic🤔 I will look into it more. Can’t do much about my voice or accent though…
Complaining about the audio on a free instructional video that someone else took hours of their time to put together for you? Nice. Audio was fine.
Thank you for your support and understanding! I'm glad you found the audio to be acceptable. Maybe the issue was to do with background noise, as I live on a busy street with a constant stream of traffic...
AWG is now a redundant System
The U.S. has finally adopted the Metric system of wiring since 2014
This was initiated by the Car industry which exports most of the vehicles
manufactured - thus it became necessary to change to SI units.
Do your homework and STOP propagating a redundant obsolete system
Thank you for your thought-provoking comment. Perhaps the AWG standard will one day disappear. However, the National Electric Code handbook 2014 (United States) does mention that “In this country, the American Wire Gage (AWG) is the standard for copper wire and for aluminum wire used for electrical conductors”, which does give the impression that AWG is has not been replaced by the SI metric system. Regardless, the purpose of this video was to show how to make your own DuPont connectors, as I am using jumper wires with DuPont connectors in my DIY robot building project. It was not my intention to push the usage of any particular wire standard. I just wanted to let people know what size I used. I do prefer the metric system most of the time, however, the wire I have in my possession which was purchased in Japan has been manufactured according to the AWG standard, which I thought at the time was a little strange as Japan is strictly metric with regard to standardization.
Sorry to break to you but us folks on the ground use AWG to identify wire size. Until your comment I've never even heard of metric wiring. Obsolete is an interesting word you chose. Greetings from Canada!
LMAO at this absurd comment. Not only has the USA not switched to metric wire wholesale (maybe the auto industry has, but everything else hasn’t), but in fact, AWG wires are still really common _outside_ of USA too, in particular for thinner stranded wires, like are common in electronics. In fact, below 0.25mm2, there are no standardized metric sizes, and the most common ones (0.14mm2 and 0.08mm2) are just translated AWG sizes.
What I find much more irritating than AWG-vs-metric is that metric wire itself uses two entirely different systems: all stranded wire, as well as thicker solid wire, are measured by cross-sectional area (mm^2), while thin solid wire is measured in the diameter in mm. This means you really need to pay attention when selecting or configuring wire strippers, not to mention that since it is cross-section that determines ampacity, you have to do math to compare the ampacity of solid and stranded wires when selecting them.