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Thank you so much! I'm glad you find the series informative. Stay tuned for more content!

Hi! WOW! It's awesome to hear that you're also working on an autonomous bird-shaped robot for your final year project-how cool is that? 😊 Good luck with your project, too! 😊

@@lettherebeengineering Well its very interesting! Im now at the detailed designing stage where I have to make calculations whether the structure is appropriate. Then I will move to the implementation stage. Are you also doing this for fyp?

I see! I have mainly concentrated on the geometry aspect, making sure I can fit all the components within the small body shell. I haven’t done actual calculations yet, so I guess my chassis design might be a little over engineered. But I do intend doing a few structural analyses on Fusion 360, where I might have to make a few more adjustments before implementation.

@@lettherebeengineering Nice 😊👍 Where are you from? I will follow your progress and hope everything goes well on your side 👌😎

I'm originally from New Zealand 😎, but I haven't lived there for many years. I now live in Japan. I really hope your project goes well for you too!

Thank you so much for your comment! I'm glad the video was helpful to you. Yes, crimping each segment separately is crucial for a good connection. Crimping both at the same time often leads to poor connections and damaged ends. I think there are crimping tools out there that can simultaneously crimp the conductor section and the insulation section properly, but they are probably quite expensive. It's generally not necessary to solder the wires before crimping. Crimping alone should provide a strong mechanical and reliable connection if done correctly. Soldering can potentially cause issues in tight spaces. So, I think it's better to stick with crimping only, but even if you do, never before crimping IMO, because the solder would likely interfere with the conductor section and not crimp properly. S gage model trains - awesome! Yes, you can make a harness by inserting multiple DuPont connectors into respective housings of the harness. About creating shorter socket joints. Yes, I suppose you can use simple pins or connectors and solder them to a short length of wire to fit into the female Dupont connector if you have no space for a male DuPont connector. Just ensure that they fit snugly into the female Dupont housing. Maybe you can use heat shrink tubing over the soldered joint to provide additional insulation and support.

Thank you so much for your detailed feedback and kind words! Your point about the wire stripping length is well taken. I’ll pin your comment so others can benefit from your recommendation to stick to the correct strip length of 4-4.5mm for both male and female connectors. Thanks again for your input

Thank you for your sound advice! I'll definitely get myself a pair of cable shears for next time. I appreciate you sharing this tip.

That is AWESOME advice! I really appreciate your input!

P.S. Klein Tools’ Klein-Kurve strippers actually have markings for both solid and stranded. With that said, for small wires like used in DuPont, there’s a specific style of precision wire stripper I like (sold by CK as the 330011), since it lets you set a very precise depth stop to very short strip lengths, works with even difficult insulation types (like Teflon, irradiated PVC or PE, or Kapton), and keeps the wire straight. That and the Knipex MultiStrip 10 fully-automatic stripper, but it’s only for “normal” easy-to-strip insulation materials like PVC, most silicone, and newfangled ones like mPPE. At work, another department has a costs-more-than-my-first-two-cars-combined wire stripping machine, which is glorious, but they annoyingly won’t let me take it home. :p It’s actually for stripping small coaxial cables, so it can be programmed with the exact strip lengths and depths for each layer of the cable, but it’s also what I used for some difficult wires when I worked in that department.

Wow, the precision wire stripper you mentioned is very appealing (CK 330011), but very pricey where I live (Japan). That costs-more-than-your-first-two-cars-combined “programmable” wire stripping machine sounds awesome, too!

@@lettherebeengineering How much is “very pricey” for the CK? They’ve been in short supply for years (i have two - one of that model, one of the model for slightly smaller wires - and it took 2 months to get the one, 6 for the other!) so the prices on them have been going up…

That's interesting to hear how long it took for you to aquire the CKs. Upon further investigation, my initial search on Amazon was way over priced at over 27,000 yen, or 189 US dollars. Whereas, I searched elsewhere and found the same CK at only 7800 yen, or 44 US dollars, which seems quite reasonable!

Thank you for your positive feedback. I am glad this video was helpful!

I would prefer to say “inexpensive audio!”😄Yeah, I'm on a budget. But I realized my phone was doing a better job that my cheap mic🤔 I will look into it more. Can’t do much about my voice or accent though…

Complaining about the audio on a free instructional video that someone else took hours of their time to put together for you? Nice. Audio was fine.

Thank you for your support and understanding! I'm glad you found the audio to be acceptable. Maybe the issue was to do with background noise, as I live on a busy street with a constant stream of traffic...

I appreciate your engagement with my content! Glad to know that you’re finding value in this series. Currently, I’m immersed in the process of designing the body and chassis. There’s going to be a few surprises!

One way would be to split one wire into two branches by stripping a 10mm mid-section of the insulation of one wire say about 30mm from the end, strip the end of another much-shorter wire, solder the end of the shorter wire to the exposed wire of the mid-section, cover the exposed soldered bare wires with heat-shrink, also strip the end of the first wire. Make four sets of such wires, attach DuPont connectors to all of the single ends and then connect each single end to a 4-pin DuPont housing, then attach DuPont connectors to all the double ends (with separate DuPont connectors) and then connect these double ends to the 8-pin housing. I hope I have understood your question correctly.

Great question! The modified servo has very decent torque, even at the lowest possible rotation speed. For example, at the slowest speed of +/ - 1, you can pick up the servo by the horn and the body of the servo rotates instead. But it can also pull much heaver loads than that. So I don't think there is much (if any) loss in torque upon modification to 360 degree rotation.

Glad you enjoyed the video!

Hi, thank you for your comment. I have shared a link to a downloadable file in the video description. Do you want to use the file for designing your robot? Please note that this 3D model is just for the purpose of establishing the outer dimensions of the servo to aid in a more accurate design of your project such as, e.g., a robot, etc. Best of luck with your robot project!

Just to update, I have made a STEP file available for downloading from my GrabCad account. Details in the description of this video.

Thank you for your thought-provoking comment. Perhaps the AWG standard will one day disappear. However, the National Electric Code handbook 2014 (United States) does mention that “In this country, the American Wire Gage (AWG) is the standard for copper wire and for aluminum wire used for electrical conductors”, which does give the impression that AWG is has not been replaced by the SI metric system. Regardless, the purpose of this video was to show how to make your own DuPont connectors, as I am using jumper wires with DuPont connectors in my DIY robot building project. It was not my intention to push the usage of any particular wire standard. I just wanted to let people know what size I used. I do prefer the metric system most of the time, however, the wire I have in my possession which was purchased in Japan has been manufactured according to the AWG standard, which I thought at the time was a little strange as Japan is strictly metric with regard to standardization.

Sorry to break to you but us folks on the ground use AWG to identify wire size. Until your comment I've never even heard of metric wiring. Obsolete is an interesting word you chose. Greetings from Canada!

LMAO at this absurd comment. Not only has the USA not switched to metric wire wholesale (maybe the auto industry has, but everything else hasn’t), but in fact, AWG wires are still really common _outside_ of USA too, in particular for thinner stranded wires, like are common in electronics. In fact, below 0.25mm2, there are no standardized metric sizes, and the most common ones (0.14mm2 and 0.08mm2) are just translated AWG sizes.

What I find much more irritating than AWG-vs-metric is that metric wire itself uses two entirely different systems: all stranded wire, as well as thicker solid wire, are measured by cross-sectional area (mm^2), while thin solid wire is measured in the diameter in mm. This means you really need to pay attention when selecting or configuring wire strippers, not to mention that since it is cross-section that determines ampacity, you have to do math to compare the ampacity of solid and stranded wires when selecting them.

Thank you for your positive feedback! I'm gladto hear that you found the video worthwhile.

Thank you for your feedback! Glad my video was easy to understand.

Thanks your for your nice comment! I did use stock videos at the beginning of the video, and I hope the robot I am creating will exceed your expectations!

@@lettherebeengineering I have my faith in you! I love the content you are creating. I cannot wait to see what happens when you are finished.

Wow! I’m so glad you have joined the journey of this DIY robotic design and build project! Consider yourself officially counted in, Fred! It's fantastic to have you as a new subscriber. Just a heads up, this is the epitome of a shoestring-budget project. I'm not broke, just financially challenged, with a wallet that echoes more than it jingles! 🤑💸…Oh yeah, my mother calls me Dale, but everyone else just calls me Mr. Let-there-be-engineering for short.