@@steveo6685 I’m running about 14 business days on my turn around time, but that being said.. it has slowed down a bit going into the holidays. Shoot me a message on Facebook or Instagram and I can show you pictures for reference as well as get you a quote.
I did this to my P80 like you said and it worked great on one, another one i got so so.. Ended up measuring where that fin sits side to side and found it off just a couple thousands, tweaked it and worked like a charm.. I guess depending on where you get the trigger bar they all might not be as precise as they should be. Black magic marker also helps find where and if its rubbing where it shouldnt.. Great video thank you.
Totally agree, you two and Jhonny Glocks put me in the game, str8 up! Marine Gun Builder, building tips excellent, Johnny Glocks for internals, and you for stippling and ect. Would recommend y'all three to anyone whom needs to know anything about glocks, and p80's.
I am so glad to see someone addressing this issue! I spent all day yesterday looking for a solution to this problem, but didn't even know what to call it. I pop onto youtube again today and this is the second video in my feed! My build will thank you forever! :)
You #Jhonny Glocks and this guy!!! Would be the people I would recommend for anything about building glocks or p80's. Plus your a fellow Marine, I got in the game late, but I'm here now while we still can. HOOYAH!!!
Very helpful, I couldn't figure out what was causing it to stick. Once you pointed out the problem area I put a bit of lube on a qtip and rubbed it on the safety plunger and trigger fin. That fixed the problem for now, in the past with another polymer80 build the problem went away after putting about 100 rounds through it. Thanks for taking the time to post this video.
Wouldn't one of those rounded stainless steel/titanium nitride safety plungers done just as well to fix an issue like that? Rock your glock sells them for 15-20
I had the problem with it get stuck and not going into battery. I was worried it might mess up my 80 but at this point it wasn’t working anyways. I did exactly what you said and now my build is smooth as butter. No more issues at all and haven’t had a malfunction since. Thanks for the information
I've been deburring/polishing the plungers on my Glocks since I got my first one 20 years ago. I bought it used and it had that exact problem (which is why the other guy sold it). Figured I would just start with a basic disassembly and cleaning and I had to fight the plunger to remove it. That one just got the 600 grit treatment but it worked fine.
I have this exact issue. I used sandpaper to polish the fin. It does feel a little better, but I still need to polish that safety plunger a little bit. Thanks for the advice!
I think what you’re doing with these videos and interacting with your community is absolutely amazing. You’re gonna grow quickly doing this and I for one am very appreciative of all of it. I’ve done a few builds now and I got the hang of it pretty well but in the beginning I wouldn’t have done it properly if it weren’t for you and MGB. Thank you both and keep up the great work!!
This is one thing they changed on the gen4 Glocks, Can also use a couple different grits of sandpapers then put a polish on it with the Flitz, then should be good to go. We all should share the know, like the ARMY says, adapt, innovate, overcome.
I ran across two other issues with my build. They caused similar but different problems. First the recoil spring was rubbing on the u channel. Just running the spring in the channel it would catch one of the coils every so often. Further filing and polishing fixed that. The fix was very subtle. The second issue was the spring for the slide release. The spring didn't seem to seat as low as I expected. The part going in to thre
The frame didn't go deep enough and was hanging up on the recoil spring. I decided to shorten the bottom end until it seated. Come to find out it had a lip or edge on the bottom. I filed it off and the spring magically seated all the way and the problem was solved. In my experience stock Glock and aftermarket parts need need to be checked for burrs and rough surfaces. Do the twenty cent trigger job and you will see just how rough things can be. Now I do that first and every other build of mine has been smooth.
I can't wait to try this. Sand and polish that trigger lip. I built a PSA dagger .40 and I was getting several failures to feed and weak strikes that didn't fire the round. Thanks for this!
This is the problem I'm having and have found only your video that addresses this issue. Thanks a bunch. I was ready to call the gunsmith cause I have literally changed every part in this thing to oem to fix this to no avail. Awesome video!
Thank you thank you thank you thank you. I couldnt figure out for the life of me, why i kept having this drag. Ur trick worked. Im definitely going to be a new follower
Hey dude, this is Jake from Tacticool! My pal is using your videos to fix his P80 and he sent me a link to your video! I was like "bro! I know that dude!"
I’ve only had this issue on a few cerakoted slides. I ended up polishing the hell out of all the metal in the upper and lower parts kits and racking the slide about 1000 times. If that doesn’t work on my pf8ss then I will give this approach a try. Thanks for sharing man.
Yup! Taking off some of shark fin material and rounding it a bit better did the trick for my pf9ss build. Also went ahead and cleaned up some burrs I noticed on the disconnecter that could have been contributing to the dragging to some extent. Super simple and easy fix. It’s like butter now. Thanks again!
I use Flitz Polish on a old sock with a drill on my safety plunger. I would not grind on it. The hardening on glock parts is very thin. I have had the same problem a few times and l think the best fix is to remove the rear rail and the point where the trigger bar and the rail touch take a diamond file to that point and remove a VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF MATERIAL!!! It might take a few times of reinstall and test but you can't add material back.
IMPORTANT INFO: BEFORE REMOVING MATERIAL!!!! Ensure your firing pin safety spring is properly aligned when installed. When the spring is slightly off and doesn’t go into the hole in the center it will cause slide drag. Once you remove material it could cause problems when the safety is reinstalled properly.
Great video bro. Just did my first build and had the same issue. I knew what was causing the drag and was about to buy a new plunger when your video popped up on my stream. Thanks for the tip
I’m having the same issue with a P80 build but, I’m getting a dead trigger (sometimes). I depress the trigger, hold it, rack the slide and sometimes it goes into battery, sometimes the trigger won’t reset. It’s just dead, stuck to the rear. I’ve put the slide on a Glock 17, it functions fine, put a Glock 17 slide on the P80 frame, it functions fine. Only having issues with the P80 slide on the P80 frame.
Good job bruh appreciate it info.. I actually had that problem on my p80.. builds usually disappoint people after the first built with hella issues.. but everything jus needs a bit of tweaking not tweakes lol.
Omg. I was about to give up on my build. I think this did the trick. After doing it it goes into battery every time I have the trigger pulled!!! Next, testing on the range.
thanks for the insight i just used a file and a drill i guess i did ti this may because i have a project a work that i use a drill and file also so again thank for this helpful videp
With my "slide drag", the slide will not fully engage unless I hard rack it. Whenever I soft rack it, it does the same as yours, only difference, a slight shake is what fully engages it.
Hey the plunger may be getting stuck because the OD (outside diameter) my be oversize or rough. Also the slide may have cerakote buildup or just need filing and polishing so the plunger will go smoothly up and down in its hole. File and polish the plunger hole.
Built my p80 almost perfect parts came lubed shot it n it jammed trying to load the next round I took it apart n used mink oil for my boots on it with a q tip and melted it into the recoil spring lubed the rails and it slides like butter now no scraping noises just smooth sliding
Great video, I've got one for you! My trigger bar is dragging on the slide just in front of the safety plunger and marking the slide clearly! Fix? Suggestions? Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Same issue here. Even tried bending it a little too center it on the plunger, lowering it away from the slide, but still rubs. If I take off any more material, afraid it will not function correctly.
@@HomeBrewedVapesReviews I sanded the hump on trigger bar with 1200 grit sandpaper, seemed to work on mine! Lube slide rails and frame rails also? Mine seems ok after a bit of dry fire, slide cycling.
I have a question about having a gap in the front end between the slide and frame and being able to see the guide rod pretty well. Is it the parts I’m using or did I just put it together wrong? Thank you
I need to do this. Seeing drag marks on the slide due to the trigger bar. Slide drags like crazy. Also slide stop lever catches when I rack the slide without a Mag in it.
@@alepepperoni2563 I put the safety plunger in a drill and used a steel file. Pretty much milled the safety plunger until it’s smooth. Then polished the trigger bar fin. The slide catch just needed some break in with firing at the range.
It can correct it’s self overtime. But it can also cause issues like the slide not returning to battery. If you don’t plan to carry the build, can deal with the issues as well as the cost of the ammo in today’s market then try and run a few boxes through it and see what it does.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thank you I ran maybe 200 rounds through the build it runs pretty good o have had a few stove pipes or failures to eject.. do you thank that maybe the cause??? And I love the Chanel my guy your awesome af
Another reason to slide binds is the slide takedown leaf spring. I've been trying to figure out why mind is binding for a few days, tried everything in these videos and nothing worked the stupid leaf springs sticking up just a little tiny bit, removed it filed it down and put it back in now it sits flush and it runs smooth.
Thanks man, this is exactly my problem and I would've never guessed the cause of it without this video. The first part you mention grinding down, mine doesn't really have any lips and it appears to be machined in a very particular way. Do you still recommend grinding it down or should I just try to polish the plunger first and see if that fixes it? If you do recommended grinding it still which surfaces do I go after? All of them? The front? The back? Appreciate the help
You can start on the plunger and see if that helps. If it does then problem solved. When working on the fin on the trigger bar, you don’t want to remove any material from the very top. It can cause the bar to pass the plunger without depressing it. So just work the back side of it smooth and polish the tip
Will this problem also cause a off center light primer strike as well ????? I’m having this problem as well as off center light primer strikes. I honestly don’t think I need a stronger recoil spring assembly or and a new striker assembly.
This solved exactly one of the issues I’ve been having! Thank you! Another question! The rear trigger assembly housing doesn’t want to lay flush to the rails; it wants to be half a mil higher to get the pin thru, and as a result has a bit of wobble, as well as making the extractor run slightly on the slide. Should I drill the rear assembly housing so it sits all the way flush with pin installed and jb weld it into the chassis? Will jb work? Any other fix?
I have a problem with my Polymer80 G19 and my slide is getting stuck when cocked backed and i have to butt the back of the slide to make it slide forward i have no idea whats the problem can i get sum help?
But who holds down the trigger after every shot? Does it happen when you reset after shots? I’ve never had this problem, lucky I b. Great info though good to know.
Great video. I am having the same issue. I’m new to the the builds and kind of need a more in depth step by step process. Didn’t know if you were available to chat. Let me know. Thank you
I have a question. Could this be my issue, I just completed my first build, and I’m having an issue where my trigger won’t click/fire, with out me pulling up on the rear of the slide a little. If I don’t pull up, it doesnt want to click/fire, there is a very light click, but the trigger doesn’t stay back, it pushes back forward into fire position. Any help, or advice, as to what might cause this would be greatly appreciated.
Love you content, im having a issue im hoping you can shed some light on. I have a G22 gen 3 and i just bought a replacement slide (rockslide usa) and uppers kit and tried it out on my glock lower and its not going into full battery or ejecting properly. Im still waiting for my p80 kit so i can try it out on it but im assuming it should work on my trusty glock as that gun function flawlessly. Ive noticed my glock upper is nice and smooth while my cerakoted rockslide is almost like a fine grit sandpaper in texture. Any input would be very helpful thanks again and im definitely going to subscribe to your channel.
Steven Gleave chances are it’s excess Cerakote in the rail ports. The easiest fix is an $8 tube of valve lapping compound from autozone. It’s meant to create a metal on metal fit on the valves in motors. It works great for clearing the excess Cerakote out and mating the rails to the slide 🤘🏻
Did you ever hear of the P80 Front Locking Block Pin Or Trigger Housing Pin causing slide drag? I left it out altogether and it resets perfectly without it. Is it necessary if the G19 doesn’t have one?
When I dry fire my p80 26 my slide comes completely forward and off like if I was taking it apart can someone please help I’ve been tryna to fix this issue for weeks
G23 .40s&w completed stainless ported rock slide w/ a silencer co threaded barrel on a polymer 80 lower w/ (what I hope) are OEM parts having failure to feed; you think it’s the trigger connector? Trigger housing? Or the safety plunger like in your video?
Did function check with no magazine in and the trigger resets fine. I insert empty mag to check for slide lock. Works fine. Upon releasing slide with empty magazine in. The trigger will not reset. All Glock parts. Well oiled and clean. Anybody with this type of experience to offer quick fix? Thank you.
Slide is being lifted just enough with the mag that you’re losing your cruciform engagement. Johnny Glocks has some great video on how to fix it. Just search Johnny Glocks cruciform engagement and it will pull them up.
Subscribe to the Channel here: @UCsLkXUyX5vFMuc38Tm8WqTQ
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@t
@@steveo6685 awesome man! I’m ready when you are 🤘🏻
@@steveo6685 yes sir! Send away
@@steveo6685 I’m running about 14 business days on my turn around time, but that being said.. it has slowed down a bit going into the holidays. Shoot me a message on Facebook or Instagram and I can show you pictures for reference as well as get you a quote.
@@steveo6685 t
I’ve seen where on a aftermarket slide the safety plunger doesn’t seat flush. It will be a tad high when pressed down.
I did this to my P80 like you said and it worked great on one, another one i got so so.. Ended up measuring where that fin sits side to side and found it off just a couple thousands, tweaked it and worked like a charm.. I guess depending on where you get the trigger bar they all might not be as precise as they should be. Black magic marker also helps find where and if its rubbing where it shouldnt.. Great video thank you.
Thanks dude, needed this. U and marinegunbuilder have been massively valuable to my build.
B B glad it helped! 🤘🏻
Dude these people helped an endless amount of fuck ups for me forever the full will someday do a build joys for video then give t away
Totally agree, you two and Jhonny Glocks put me in the game, str8 up! Marine Gun Builder, building tips excellent, Johnny Glocks for internals, and you for stippling and ect. Would recommend y'all three to anyone whom needs to know anything about glocks, and p80's.
Thanks man! 2 years later and still helping people out! Fixed my issue 🤙
You are a life saver . I was going to quit building until I came across this video and was able to fix the same problem you had.
I am so glad to see someone addressing this issue! I spent all day yesterday looking for a solution to this problem, but didn't even know what to call it. I pop onto youtube again today and this is the second video in my feed! My build will thank you forever! :)
Thanks for this video! I’ve owned 5 glocks and built three 80%s and every single one of them have had this issue. Giving it a try now 🤘
My Brother doing his thing and putting in the work !! #gunsmithswinning
MarineGunBuilder gotta achieve that first time quality 🤘🏻
You #Jhonny Glocks and this guy!!! Would be the people I would recommend for anything about building glocks or p80's. Plus your a fellow Marine, I got in the game late, but I'm here now while we still can. HOOYAH!!!
Just getting into P80 building and your knowledge is a big help,good stuff,keep it up and will definitely lean on your know how
Very helpful, I couldn't figure out what was causing it to stick. Once you pointed out the problem area I put a bit of lube on a qtip and rubbed it on the safety plunger and trigger fin. That fixed the problem for now, in the past with another polymer80 build the problem went away after putting about 100 rounds through it. Thanks for taking the time to post this video.
Glad it helped!
Wouldn't one of those rounded stainless steel/titanium nitride safety plungers done just as well to fix an issue like that? Rock your glock sells them for 15-20
I had the problem with it get stuck and not going into battery. I was worried it might mess up my 80 but at this point it wasn’t working anyways. I did exactly what you said and now my build is smooth as butter. No more issues at all and haven’t had a malfunction since. Thanks for the information
I've been deburring/polishing the plungers on my Glocks since I got my first one 20 years ago. I bought it used and it had that exact problem (which is why the other guy sold it).
Figured I would just start with a basic disassembly and cleaning and I had to fight the plunger to remove it. That one just got the 600 grit treatment but it worked fine.
I have this exact issue. I used sandpaper to polish the fin. It does feel a little better, but I still need to polish that safety plunger a little bit. Thanks for the advice!
I think what you’re doing with these videos and interacting with your community is absolutely amazing. You’re gonna grow quickly doing this and I for one am very appreciative of all of it. I’ve done a few builds now and I got the hang of it pretty well but in the beginning I wouldn’t have done it properly if it weren’t for you and MGB. Thank you both and keep up the great work!!
Much appreciated man. Glad to be able to help 🤘🏻
This is one thing they changed on the gen4 Glocks, Can also use a couple different grits of sandpapers then put a polish on it with the Flitz, then should be good to go. We all should share the know, like the ARMY says, adapt, innovate, overcome.
Just wanted to say thank you for this video. This was a very frustrating part of my build. It's much better now.
Glad it helped 🤘🏻
I’ve been looking for this solution for months now !! THANK YOU !!!!
One of the few legends in the Glock/80 group you definitely aren't one to not help out. Just preparing myself for another build
I ran across two other issues with my build. They caused similar but different problems. First the recoil spring was rubbing on the u channel. Just running the spring in the channel it would catch one of the coils every so often. Further filing and polishing fixed that. The fix was very subtle. The second issue was the spring for the slide release. The spring didn't seem to seat as low as I expected. The part going in to thre
The frame didn't go deep enough and was hanging up on the recoil spring. I decided to shorten the bottom end until it seated. Come to find out it had a lip or edge on the bottom. I filed it off and the spring magically seated all the way and the problem was solved. In my experience stock Glock and aftermarket parts need need to be checked for burrs and rough surfaces. Do the twenty cent trigger job and you will see just how rough things can be. Now I do that first and every other build of mine has been smooth.
You have to use a punch to install the slide release
I can't wait to try this. Sand and polish that trigger lip. I built a PSA dagger .40 and I was getting several failures to feed and weak strikes that didn't fire the round. Thanks for this!
Went from complete jam up to a near perfect run (last shot didn't lock slide back) by following your suggestions...thank you!
This is the problem I'm having and have found only your video that addresses this issue. Thanks a bunch. I was ready to call the gunsmith cause I have literally changed every part in this thing to oem to fix this to no avail. Awesome video!
Thanks man, fired my ss build for the first time last night and had this problem.
Thank you thank you thank you thank you. I couldnt figure out for the life of me, why i kept having this drag. Ur trick worked. Im definitely going to be a new follower
thank you sir. 6:25 for the dad "GTFOH" move. lol
Hey dude, this is Jake from Tacticool! My pal is using your videos to fix his P80 and he sent me a link to your video! I was like "bro! I know that dude!"
I’ve only had this issue on a few cerakoted slides. I ended up polishing the hell out of all the metal in the upper and lower parts kits and racking the slide about 1000 times. If that doesn’t work on my pf8ss then I will give this approach a try. Thanks for sharing man.
Yup! Taking off some of shark fin material and rounding it a bit better did the trick for my pf9ss build. Also went ahead and cleaned up some burrs I noticed on the disconnecter that could have been contributing to the dragging to some extent. Super simple and easy fix. It’s like butter now. Thanks again!
I know this is an older video. But you gave me some info I needed. Thank you and you have a new subscriber.
I use Flitz Polish on a old sock with a drill on my safety plunger. I would not grind on it. The hardening on glock parts is very thin.
I have had the same problem a few times and l think the best fix is to remove the rear rail and the point where the trigger bar and the rail touch take a diamond file to that point and remove a VERY SMALL AMOUNT OF MATERIAL!!! It might take a few times of reinstall and test but you can't add material back.
IMPORTANT INFO:
BEFORE REMOVING MATERIAL!!!!
Ensure your firing pin safety spring is properly aligned when installed. When the spring is slightly off and doesn’t go into the hole in the center it will cause slide drag. Once you remove material it could cause problems when the safety is reinstalled properly.
That frame and handle look great man. Love the black and white/silver look it has going on with it.
Thank you for this video sir. I'm off to fix this slide drag problem of mine. I appreciate you!!
Great video, glad to see it young brother, I know it's a old video, but great job.
🙏🏻
Great Guy real American here watching out for us .Stay safe Thanks very much.
Having this exact problem with 2 serialized p80 builds! Thank you for the information
Thanks. Makes sense. Will do it tomorrow. I owe you a beer.
Excellent video. Helped a bunch
🤓👊🏻
Dude you saved mt ass I been chasing this problem
🤓👊🏻
Great video bro. Just did my first build and had the same issue. I knew what was causing the drag and was about to buy a new plunger when your video popped up on my stream. Thanks for the tip
Thank you. Been trying to trouble shoot this issue for some time now.
very nice.
sweet pistol.
you may need a sign for your door that says recording do not disturb.
gilliland426 😂 that’s no kidding! We have 5 kids, it’s almost inevitable!
I’m having the same issue with a P80 build but, I’m getting a dead trigger (sometimes). I depress the trigger, hold it, rack the slide and sometimes it goes into battery, sometimes the trigger won’t reset. It’s just dead, stuck to the rear. I’ve put the slide on a Glock 17, it functions fine, put a Glock 17 slide on the P80 frame, it functions fine. Only having issues with the P80 slide on the P80 frame.
Sounds like a cruciform engagement issue
Good job bruh appreciate it info.. I actually had that problem on my p80.. builds usually disappoint people after the first built with hella issues.. but everything jus needs a bit of tweaking not tweakes lol.
Gr8 insight bro, just getting all my materials ready for my 1st p80 g26 build
Omg. I was about to give up on my build. I think this did the trick. After doing it it goes into battery every time I have the trigger pulled!!! Next, testing on the range.
Trying this tonight after the channel owner gave me a suggestion. That is how you build a YT channel.
Sorry man, just seen this post. Did it help?!
@@gledhillcustoms4659 it was the rear nub on the trigger bar dragging on the cerakote. Seems to operate now. Your suggestion helped a ton sir.
Hot boxing the room while building my type of video😂
😂👊🏻
Awesome video. Thanks
This was a great video it helped me out a lot, I’ve been trying to fix this issue for a while now. Thank you!
Thank you so much. So awesome.
👊🏻🤓
thanks for the insight i just used a file and a drill i guess i did ti this may because i have a project a work that i use a drill and file also so again thank for this helpful videp
With my "slide drag", the slide will not fully engage unless I hard rack it. Whenever I soft rack it, it does the same as yours, only difference, a slight shake is what fully engages it.
They’re not designed to soft rack.
This was incredibly helpful...thank you!!
Thanks brother, thT helped me out on my 43.
Tks , your plunger tip helps a lot
Awesome man, glad to hear that!
Hey the plunger may be getting stuck because the OD (outside diameter) my be oversize or rough. Also the slide may have cerakote buildup or just need filing and polishing so the plunger will go smoothly up and down in its hole. File and polish the plunger hole.
Dude! Your garage is on fire!
Built my p80 almost perfect parts came lubed shot it n it jammed trying to load the next round I took it apart n used mink oil for my boots on it with a q tip and melted it into the recoil spring lubed the rails and it slides like butter now no scraping noises just smooth sliding
Well explained.
Great video, I've got one for you! My trigger bar is dragging on the slide just in front of the safety plunger and marking the slide clearly! Fix? Suggestions? Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks!
Same issue here. Even tried bending it a little too center it on the plunger, lowering it away from the slide, but still rubs. If I take off any more material, afraid it will not function correctly.
@@HomeBrewedVapesReviews I sanded the hump on trigger bar with 1200 grit sandpaper, seemed to work on mine! Lube slide rails and frame rails also? Mine seems ok after a bit of dry fire, slide cycling.
I found that changing the 17lb spring to a 20lb spring made mine run flawless
Thanks bro ... just what I needed
Thank you so much!
I have a question about having a gap in the front end between the slide and frame and being able to see the guide rod pretty well. Is it the parts I’m using or did I just put it together wrong? Thank you
I like that frame man
Awesome. Thanks
Great video brother & a beautiful build👍
Thnx.
Thank you!
I need to do this. Seeing drag marks on the slide due to the trigger bar. Slide drags like crazy. Also slide stop lever catches when I rack the slide without a Mag in it.
Did you figure out the issue?
@@alepepperoni2563 I put the safety plunger in a drill and used a steel file. Pretty much milled the safety plunger until it’s smooth. Then polished the trigger bar fin. The slide catch just needed some break in with firing at the range.
Great video! Thanks for the help.
Oil that squeaky spring it’s killing me 😂.
Thanks Brad, you are a boss. 💪. Worked sooo good.
On my p80 i need to use force to remove the slide , it doesn’t come out smooth any help ? Should I get oem parts ?
Thanks bro I'm going to round it out now
Apex makes a rounded safety plunger.
What will happen if i shoot the gun with that malfunction??? Will it fix itself over time like the more I shoot it the better it will get?
Just got done with my build
It can correct it’s self overtime. But it can also cause issues like the slide not returning to battery. If you don’t plan to carry the build, can deal with the issues as well as the cost of the ammo in today’s market then try and run a few boxes through it and see what it does.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 thank you I ran maybe 200 rounds through the build it runs pretty good o have had a few stove pipes or failures to eject.. do you thank that maybe the cause??? And I love the Chanel my guy your awesome af
Another reason to slide binds is the slide takedown leaf spring. I've been trying to figure out why mind is binding for a few days, tried everything in these videos and nothing worked the stupid leaf springs sticking up just a little tiny bit, removed it filed it down and put it back in now it sits flush and it runs smooth.
Thanks man, bless you.
Very well explained!
I subbed and liked, this video helped me fix my slide drag. Thanks for all the great info!
Omg life saver thank you for this video
What if you replace the plunger with a stock Glock plunger?
Thanks man, this is exactly my problem and I would've never guessed the cause of it without this video. The first part you mention grinding down, mine doesn't really have any lips and it appears to be machined in a very particular way. Do you still recommend grinding it down or should I just try to polish the plunger first and see if that fixes it? If you do recommended grinding it still which surfaces do I go after? All of them? The front? The back? Appreciate the help
You can start on the plunger and see if that helps. If it does then problem solved. When working on the fin on the trigger bar, you don’t want to remove any material from the very top. It can cause the bar to pass the plunger without depressing it. So just work the back side of it smooth and polish the tip
I really believe you should try out a pre-rounded safety plunger from rockyourglock before you make a permanent alteration to a trigger bar
@@mghegotagun to each their own. Some guys enjoy the satisfaction of doing it themselves, some are not comfortable with it.
@@gledhillcustoms4659 FR we do!!
Nice work.
Jamie thank you 🙏🏻
Will this problem also cause a off center light primer strike as well ????? I’m having this problem as well as off center light primer strikes. I honestly don’t think I need a stronger recoil spring assembly or and a new striker assembly.
It shouldn’t. Shouldn’t fire if it’s out of battery. Is your channel liner installed?
This solved exactly one of the issues I’ve been having! Thank you! Another question! The rear trigger assembly housing doesn’t want to lay flush to the rails; it wants to be half a mil higher to get the pin thru, and as a result has a bit of wobble, as well as making the extractor run slightly on the slide. Should I drill the rear assembly housing so it sits all the way flush with pin installed and jb weld it into the chassis? Will jb work? Any other fix?
I have a problem with my Polymer80 G19 and my slide is getting stuck when cocked backed and i have to butt the back of the slide to make it slide forward i have no idea whats the problem can i get sum help?
Alex Alex sounds like it’s a problem with your rails. See my video on fixing your rail issue.
Super helpful!
My trigger housing extractor pin is dragging on my slide, can I just file the extractor bar
SilverWingsMinistry yes. Little by little until there’s no friction. File, fit, file more if necessary. Polish once you have proper fitment 🤘🏻
Thank you for the info
Anytime man! Hope it helped 🤘🏻
But who holds down the trigger after every shot? Does it happen when you reset after shots? I’ve never had this problem, lucky I b. Great info though good to know.
Thanks
Great video. I am having the same issue. I’m new to the the builds and kind of need a more in depth step by step process. Didn’t know if you were available to chat. Let me know. Thank you
I have a question. Could this be my issue, I just completed my first build, and I’m having an issue where my trigger won’t click/fire, with out me pulling up on the rear of the slide a little. If I don’t pull up, it doesnt want to click/fire, there is a very light click, but the trigger doesn’t stay back, it pushes back forward into fire position. Any help, or advice, as to what might cause this would be greatly appreciated.
Check and adjust cruciform engagement
Love you content, im having a issue im hoping you can shed some light on.
I have a G22 gen 3 and i just bought a replacement slide (rockslide usa) and uppers kit and tried it out on my glock lower and its not going into full battery or ejecting properly. Im still waiting for my p80 kit so i can try it out on it but im assuming it should work on my trusty glock as that gun function flawlessly. Ive noticed my glock upper is nice and smooth while my cerakoted rockslide is almost like a fine grit sandpaper in texture. Any input would be very helpful thanks again and im definitely going to subscribe to your channel.
Steven Gleave chances are it’s excess Cerakote in the rail ports. The easiest fix is an $8 tube of valve lapping compound from autozone. It’s meant to create a metal on metal fit on the valves in motors. It works great for clearing the excess Cerakote out and mating the rails to the slide 🤘🏻
@@gledhillcustoms4659 ,you rock!!
@@gledhillcustoms4659 ,is valve grinding compound the same? Do i put it on and rack the slide?
Steven Gleave yes sir!
Did you ever hear of the P80 Front Locking Block Pin Or Trigger Housing Pin causing slide drag? I left it out altogether and it resets perfectly without it. Is it necessary if the G19 doesn’t have one?
WTF YOU JUST HELPED ME
idk the science behind it but i just took out my front locking block pin and it works
When I dry fire my p80 26 my slide comes completely forward and off like if I was taking it apart can someone please help I’ve been tryna to fix this issue for weeks
Slide lock issue. Either backward (grove goes towards the back) or a spring tension issue.
Having the same issue on my p80. Im going to install the apex trigger and plunger. Hope that will fix the problem.
You can just rework your safety plunger and save the money!
Hero period.
Chad if you will
G23 .40s&w completed stainless ported rock slide w/ a silencer co threaded barrel on a polymer 80 lower w/ (what I hope) are OEM parts having failure to feed; you think it’s the trigger connector? Trigger housing? Or the safety plunger like in your video?
Did function check with no magazine in and the trigger resets fine. I insert empty mag to check for slide lock. Works fine.
Upon releasing slide with empty magazine in. The trigger will not reset.
All Glock parts. Well oiled and clean.
Anybody with this type of experience to offer quick fix? Thank you.
Slide is being lifted just enough with the mag that you’re losing your cruciform engagement. Johnny Glocks has some great video on how to fix it. Just search Johnny Glocks cruciform engagement and it will pull them up.