Thanks for this, going to do it on my mum’s Polo for her. Small cars are great, apart from no flipping space to work on them because everything is so tightly packaged.
If you dont have 17mm hex key, you can use a bolt with 17mm head and have 2 nuts tightened on the other side. Use box end spanner on 2nd nut to break loos the filler plug
I like the nut & bolt idea. Nice one, Sarunas. Expanding on that idea a little, if one has access to welding, one could weld a nut onto a bolt and hey presto a home made adapter. Or even weld the bolt head to a piece of bar to make a dedicated 'breaker'. Many ways to skin a cat and all that 👍
Thanks for this, I have to do the gearbox oil on a 1.2 polo I bought as an emergency car when my old Mazda 323 failed it's MOT. The gearbox is whining a bit too much and all the suggestions online say that the gearbox might not have enough oil in it so a drain and refill is my first attempt to keep the car on the road until I can repair the Mazda.
Hi CC. Great video. Loved someone's idea of using a 17 mm bolt with 2 nuts to undo the plug. Genius. 🎉 In SA there are millions of nuts. Will use them. Last, to fill the gearbox, remove battery and battery seat? Pollo vivo 1400 2008. Thanx you are a star.
@@CycloneCyd ive done this before on different cars, it was just very useful to know where to find both plugs at forehand because for example i would not expect the drain plug to be where it was. and would have instead been looking under the front of the gearbox.. For me personally filling felt better from beneath the car so i could see the first signs of spilling. it was not hard or difficult to maneuver it around the axle. going out was approximately 0,5 l less then going in, the oil was not black, but not clear tho there were no solid metal parts.
Drained the oil on the 02T 301 103L (AZ 91 HP / GEJ) gearbox on my 2003 1.6 9N BAH Polo. 323 090 km and the oil are still like brand new (light golden without any metal flakes)
Hi Cyclone Cyd, my car is on 400k miles I've never changed the gearbox oil since I bought the car. But when I change into gears it's a bit rough and is not fluent do you think this has to do with the gearbox needing more oil/ a oil change or something else?
Thanks for watching and interacting. Don't forget to like the video and subscribe. Fill through the fill hole until it just drips back out with the car level. IIRC it's 1.8 litres, so you'll need 2x 1litre tubs. 👍👍
Well I have a 2008 Volkswagen Polo 9n Hatchback 1.6 16V, I'm trying to find out which transmission to use and my other question is recently my transmission has been doing a hesitation during shifting between 3&4.
Any Dexron III if you can't find that Castrol. First port of call is to check fluid level. If the fluid hasn't been changed in 50-60,000 miles then change it. See how it goes.
Hello my friend thnx about video I have Skoda fabia 1.2 12V HTP 2006 SAME MODEL like your Polo i think I am gone change the transmission oil this weekend, please how many Liters should i need ? Thnx a million times ..
Hi.. I was wondering if you could help diagnose my problem.. Same car. Just replaced some blown fuses and replaced the alternator. Gears 1 and 2 work, yet pulling away in drive has hardly any power and when I reach 40+ the revs go higher and higher and won't change gear, maybe 3rd max. Would this be a transmission fluid problem?
It sounds like it could be more serious. First thing to try is always a fluid change. Believe it or not it was 6 weeks ago I did that fluid change and yesterday the gearbox exploded!! We've had to send it off for reconditioning. Bummer! Also if you've replaced the alternator, test the battery. One of my early videos shows you how. A duff battery can pull down the ignition voltage. I hope this helps
Just re-read your problem and can't help wondering if maybe the clutch is going? Try this: get into as high a gear as possible with about 2500-3000rpm and speed steady. If possible find somewhere where you are now going uphill a little. Give it some gas to climb the hill (or if on the flat give it gas to accelerate). Do the revs rise faster than the speed? If yes, clutch is slipping and time for a new one. It's hard to watch the road and the instruments at the same time, so pick somewhere quiet and do be careful!
Sorry I did not quite understand. Did your gearbox exploded on this car that was on video (Polo 1.2 12v). Did they told you what was the cause of gearbox failure? Is it because of oil change or something else?
Hi there. yes the gearbox exploded internally. When it was taken apart it was a right mess - bits and pieces all over the place. It was making a funny noise which is what prompted me to change the oil in the first place. Ordinarily I would change 'box fluid every 40,000 miles (my Saab is on it's third change in it's life), but this car had 96,000 miles on it when we bought it and it failed at 106,000, so the 'damage' was probably already there when we got it. We cannot know the root cause, but I don't blame the fluid change. On the contrary, a fluid change can often save a worn box that has maybe started to whine.
That is correct. The shift to front wheel drive means the whole transmission is now in one box with common lube. Some companies call it manual transmission fluid.
Hi Chris, thanks for watching and interacting. Yes, the car needs to be level to get the fill correct. In the video I suggest putting the car back on the ground for this. Doing it that way also makes it easier to reach into the bonnet area than if the car's in the air. Otherwise you would need to put it up on four axle stands, which makes no sense really as it's extra kit and effort for no real gain. Personally, though, I don't use jack and stands for jobs like this. Rather, I use caravan ramps, it's way less effort all round. amzn.to/2mC6w1Q
@@fantajenkings4068 Ah, right oh! You can't see the level as such. The gearbox is a closed container with a hole in the side for filling. You cannot see in, so the hole is judiciously placed at the same height as the correct fill level. You fill the 'box until the oil just starts to drip back out of the hole. That's why it's important the car is sat level - if it's not the fill level will be wrong. 😀 This is true for most (but not all) manual gearboxes
@@CycloneCyd ahhhhhh so it can't really be overfilled if it's level. This was the puzzle in my head. The clear pipe shows it being full as it will come into the pipe. Right I'm ready! :) Appreciate the responses. Keep up the videos. If you want to fix my car for subs let me know 😁😁😁
@@fantajenkings4068 Ouch! that light bulb 💡 came on so bright it was dazzling, lol. 😂😂😂 Yes, exactly right - can't be overfilled provided the car is level. The oil just takes a few moments to go down the tube, but the tube is smaller than the fill hole. 👍 Part of the 'trick' is to put the last 200ml or so in slowly. 😎
If 90 is all you can get locally, then you've not much choice, but I suspect you'd have increased wear in cold weather and reduced economy. The gearchange when cold might suffer too.
Thanks for a nice information, i am also driving a polo 1.4 9N, BBY, Auto, petrol, 2003. i have never changed atf oil, i want to now. problem is i dont find any information on what kind of ATF oil to use. is Castro Dextron III useful for this car?
but i drained 2 liters of ATF and replaced 2 litres, is it okay? And also i have another problem, my battery was down do to longtime not started because i travelled, but when i was able to start the car after battery recharge i met with a fuel gauge error, every time and then the fuel gauge will move to full gauge then to empty and bip an alarm. after i checked the fuel pump fuse i found it blown off, i did replaced it but the problem still persists. I even refilled the fuel tank to full tank.
Hi, bought a automatic polo at weekend and having problems with the revs. Pulls away fine but soon about to change to gear 1 to gear 2 revs really high but doesnt pick up speed. Had a mechanic say needs replacement clutch. Any ideas of the price range on a clutch for a polo 1.4 auto? Thanks
I hadn't realised the auto must be an automated manual. I'd guess around £300 or so, but that is a guesstimate. Ring round for quotes - at least 3 and try to ring at least one place that's a transmission specialist. Do let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd Phoned around and most of the mechanics wont touch it. Its a semi auto and 1 mechanic said it was a DSG Gearbox and needs a specialised mechanic which won't be cheap. Will have to bite the bullet and loose half money I paid on it few days ago and re sell the car
@@stevemann2555 it's a shame so soon after getting it, but why not get it done? Is it a good car otherwise? All cars need a clutch at some time - it's a service item. If you sell on you lose half and have nothing to show for it. if you buy the clutch - ok it's effectively cost over the odds - but you've got a good car that could give plenty of good service. if you do the former, you've still gotta find money to re[place it. And that assumes you can sell it. Work out the total cost of each option and then weigh up your options.
@@CycloneCyd Yeah its a nice car, previous owner didnt specify all problems and I am a noob so didn't ask many questions and got home and loads problems with it amounting over 3x what I paid for the car. Best to get rid and search for another being more glued up next time. Do you know if I can sell this car with just the v5c green slip or do I have to wait until the whole logbook comes through?
Shame. Yeah, maybe move it on and put it down to experience then. We've all been there. You can't learn from mistakes you haven't made!! Sorry dunno about the V5 thing.
Hi Sergio, thanks for watching and interacting. I'm not familiar with any specific requirements of that 'box, but in general with autos it's not possible to drain the torque convertor without specialist equipment. So drain the oil pan and refill the 'box to the correct level with fresh oil and run it for 10,000 miles and then repeat. If the box doesn't have a dipstick, put back in as much as you drain out. After the second drain, repeat every 25,000 miles.
Hello I have a problem with a VW Polo 2003 1.2, when I turn on my car the gears won’t go in, only reverse gear goes in but it wont go back out but when the car engine is off the gears do go in with no problem, what could be wrong with that? Clutch maybe? Or the transmission fluid?
good video but at 0.34 it would have been good if you could have filmed from outside shot to inside as opposed to just cutting to the inside shot of undoing bolt
Hi there sodaclublad, thanks for watching. Don't forget to like the video and consider subscribing. Yeah, FB is what I used. My first choice for manual transmission fluid is Castrol Multivehicle usually (see thumbnail) but it's a 75/90 and this box is specified for 75 which the FB is. Plus it's easily available at ECP.
@@sodaclublad Oh, do let us know how you get on doing the clutch. Just make sure you haven't got a knackered engine mount first, that's another possible cause.
@@CycloneCyd thanks will let you know! And no I have already changed the bottom mount. When releasing the clutch it's as if the flywheel and clutch are not flat with eachother. Hopefully it'll be a Eureka moment when I see inside.
Hi mate, great quality vid, well done. Pls comment on a few items pls: Is it really worth using VW oil? Would a polo 1.6 2008 transmission need resetting after an oil change? I did an oil change and the shifting is still jerky from 2-3, and reverse, once the car is hot, I’m looking to change the valve body, hence the question about resetting. Cheers
@@nevilledewinnaar7349 I'm a big fan of Castrol transmission fluids, and use Multivehicle MTF in my Saab. I'd suggest Transmax for ATF. This is the Castrol Transmax page - on the left is a oil finder so you can make sure to get the correct type. bit.ly/Castrol_TMax_Home. I wouldn't have thought an auto would need resetting after a fluid change. I'd suggest driving it normally for 2-3000 miles with an auto cleaner added (amzn.to/382oxfE) and then changing again. If it has got sticky valves it might free up with the new fluid. ATF has virtually no detergent content (unlike engine oil).
Hi m8, wondering ig I can use the Castrol Synstrans Transaxle 75W90 (GL4+) instead of the 75W90 (GL4)? It´s a 02T transmission from a 1.6 Skoda Fabia. What does the + mean? Regards Dom
I think, but am not 100% certain that the plus means it's got hypoid properties, hence the term transaxle in the name - it's for use cases where hypoid properties are required. I wouldn't imagine that would do any 'harm', since the hypoid element is the addition of extreme pressure additives, but having used Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle in my Saab 'box, I'd stick with it. If you've already got the oil then use it, but if you've got to buy it, then buy the recommended stuff would be my 'take'.
Hi Kryštof , welcome aboard. Yes, just let the car roll off the ramps. Keep your foot on the brake to control it. Don't start the engine with an empty gearbox though.
OEs will say that gearboxes are "filled for life". What the won't tell you though is that "life" is 120,000 miles. Which means 50% will fail before that. So, if you want to extend the life of your 'box ..... you know the song! (this isn't a cast iron guarantee, but for a small outlay and easy work once every few years, you can stack the odds in your favour)
Thank you very much, your video helped me replace the oil in the transmission. I just have a dilemma whether I've poured enough oil. I used one bottle and I have almost 300ml of the other bottle left ibb.co/Fq8414r. The oil went out, and I stopped quitting. The car was on the flat. In comments it says that it takes 1.8l of oil, and I poured 1.7. So I doubt the car was on an ideal flat surface ...
I have 02T gearbox and also some 300ml remained in the bottle. Btw official guide says that gearbox must be run for 2 mins and then oil-level re-check, who knows what cavities there are...
Really helpful, Basically the same as a Seat Ibiza mk5, Thanks!
Ih
Thanks for this, going to do it on my mum’s Polo for her. Small cars are great, apart from no flipping space to work on them because everything is so tightly packaged.
If you dont have 17mm hex key, you can use a bolt with 17mm head and have 2 nuts tightened on the other side. Use box end spanner on 2nd nut to break loos the filler plug
I like the nut & bolt idea. Nice one, Sarunas. Expanding on that idea a little, if one has access to welding, one could weld a nut onto a bolt and hey presto a home made adapter. Or even weld the bolt head to a piece of bar to make a dedicated 'breaker'. Many ways to skin a cat and all that 👍
Yes you can even just use the wheel bolt from vehicle group as they are 17mm, (vag group and other) it's an old trick for these.
Thanks for this, I have to do the gearbox oil on a 1.2 polo I bought as an emergency car when my old Mazda 323 failed it's MOT. The gearbox is whining a bit too much and all the suggestions online say that the gearbox might not have enough oil in it so a drain and refill is my first attempt to keep the car on the road until I can repair the Mazda.
Superbly simple and straight forward for a first time newbie like me! Many thanks! :)
Awesome! We all start at zero!
Very handy tip about using the spanner on the hex-1/2" adaptor.
Iain Walker thanks.
Did this job today spanner on the hex socket was perfect
@@martynnoble3760 Gotta think outside the box sometimes. Glad it worked out for you.
Hi CC. Great video. Loved someone's idea of using a 17 mm bolt with 2 nuts to undo the plug. Genius. 🎉 In SA there are millions of nuts. Will use them.
Last, to fill the gearbox, remove battery and battery seat? Pollo vivo 1400 2008. Thanx you are a star.
Inded I found this video helpful. Nice short video. And thank you for the top tips!
Glad it was helpful Kolja!
I wil change mine tomorrow. Thuis video wil help a lot. Thank you!
Do let us know how you get on and what aspects you found particularly helpful
@@CycloneCyd ive done this before on different cars, it was just very useful to know where to find both plugs at forehand because for example i would not expect the drain plug to be where it was. and would have instead been looking under the front of the gearbox.. For me personally filling felt better from beneath the car so i could see the first signs of spilling. it was not hard or difficult to maneuver it around the axle. going out was approximately 0,5 l less then going in, the oil was not black, but not clear tho there were no solid metal parts.
Drained the oil on the 02T 301 103L (AZ 91 HP / GEJ) gearbox on my 2003 1.6 9N BAH Polo.
323 090 km and the oil are still like brand new (light golden without any metal flakes)
Many thanks, no mention whatsoever of location of Gearbox Fill / Drain Plugs in my Haynes Manual
Really? That's not good. Uncle Cyd to the rescue, lol 🤘🍻
Does this include manual gearboxes?
Is it same with automatic trans vw polo mk4 9N 1.4 BBY engine ?
thank you very much! just ordered the oil and tools for this job Did you notice anny difference in shifting after this job?
yes, shifting much easier. Yourself?
@@CycloneCyd yes it did! Doing well also added a additive to the gear oil.
However, gonna do it again this year drove a lot so try to make it better.
Hi Cyclone Cyd, my car is on 400k miles I've never changed the gearbox oil since I bought the car. But when I change into gears it's a bit rough and is not fluent do you think this has to do with the gearbox needing more oil/ a oil change or something else?
Thing is, after 400,000 miles, there could be no oil left in the 'box and you wouldn't know it. At the very least check the oil level.
@@CycloneCyd Hi thanx for responding, I have the exact same car as you so how much oil does it take as you should know. Thank you
@@ginoanthony The polo took 1.8 litre
Thanx soo much I really appreciate it 🌟
Great Video..How much oil is required?
Thanks for watching and interacting. Don't forget to like the video and subscribe.
Fill through the fill hole until it just drips back out with the car level. IIRC it's 1.8 litres, so you'll need 2x 1litre tubs. 👍👍
Great video! how much oil did you put? I have a Peugeot 208 with 1.2 L engine, how much oil I should put in the gearbox after I drain it completely?
IIRC it was 1.8 litres, but the fill plug is a level plug too, so you can't overfill it.
Well I have a 2008 Volkswagen Polo 9n Hatchback 1.6 16V, I'm trying to find out which transmission to use and my other question is recently my transmission has been doing a hesitation during shifting between 3&4.
Any Dexron III if you can't find that Castrol. First port of call is to check fluid level. If the fluid hasn't been changed in 50-60,000 miles then change it. See how it goes.
Hello my friend thnx about video I have Skoda fabia 1.2 12V HTP 2006 SAME MODEL like your Polo i think I am gone change the transmission oil this weekend, please how many Liters should i need ? Thnx a million times ..
Yes, it is the same model. 1.8 litre.
@@CycloneCyd Thank you sooo much
how many liters does it take in?
Very helpful and informative.
Glad you think so!
Hi.. I was wondering if you could help diagnose my problem.. Same car. Just replaced some blown fuses and replaced the alternator.
Gears 1 and 2 work, yet pulling away in drive has hardly any power and when I reach 40+ the revs go higher and higher and won't change gear, maybe 3rd max. Would this be a transmission fluid problem?
It sounds like it could be more serious. First thing to try is always a fluid change. Believe it or not it was 6 weeks ago I did that fluid change and yesterday the gearbox exploded!! We've had to send it off for reconditioning. Bummer!
Also if you've replaced the alternator, test the battery. One of my early videos shows you how. A duff battery can pull down the ignition voltage.
I hope this helps
Ok yeah I'll change it and go from there, battery was tested and ok. Thanks
Just re-read your problem and can't help wondering if maybe the clutch is going? Try this: get into as high a gear as possible with about 2500-3000rpm and speed steady. If possible find somewhere where you are now going uphill a little. Give it some gas to climb the hill (or if on the flat give it gas to accelerate). Do the revs rise faster than the speed? If yes, clutch is slipping and time for a new one.
It's hard to watch the road and the instruments at the same time, so pick somewhere quiet and do be careful!
Sorry I did not quite understand. Did your gearbox exploded on this car that was on video (Polo 1.2 12v). Did they told you what was the cause of gearbox failure? Is it because of oil change or something else?
Hi there. yes the gearbox exploded internally. When it was taken apart it was a right mess - bits and pieces all over the place. It was making a funny noise which is what prompted me to change the oil in the first place. Ordinarily I would change 'box fluid every 40,000 miles (my Saab is on it's third change in it's life), but this car had 96,000 miles on it when we bought it and it failed at 106,000, so the 'damage' was probably already there when we got it. We cannot know the root cause, but I don't blame the fluid change. On the contrary, a fluid change can often save a worn box that has maybe started to whine.
Is gear oil same as transmission oil? I have a manual with a mini shift on my car n the light says I need a gear oil
Change .
That is correct. The shift to front wheel drive means the whole transmission is now in one box with common lube. Some companies call it manual transmission fluid.
Could do with seeing how you get it level with axle stands, I presume you use four stands to get it level?
Hi Chris, thanks for watching and interacting. Yes, the car needs to be level to get the fill correct. In the video I suggest putting the car back on the ground for this. Doing it that way also makes it easier to reach into the bonnet area than if the car's in the air. Otherwise you would need to put it up on four axle stands, which makes no sense really as it's extra kit and effort for no real gain. Personally, though, I don't use jack and stands for jobs like this. Rather, I use caravan ramps, it's way less effort all round. amzn.to/2mC6w1Q
@@CycloneCyd how can you see it when its reached the right level? Thats the bit that baffles me...
@@fantajenkings4068
Ah, right oh! You can't see the level as such. The gearbox is a closed container with a hole in the side for filling. You cannot see in, so the hole is judiciously placed at the same height as the correct fill level. You fill the 'box until the oil just starts to drip back out of the hole. That's why it's important the car is sat level - if it's not the fill level will be wrong. 😀
This is true for most (but not all) manual gearboxes
@@CycloneCyd ahhhhhh so it can't really be overfilled if it's level. This was the puzzle in my head. The clear pipe shows it being full as it will come into the pipe. Right I'm ready! :) Appreciate the responses. Keep up the videos. If you want to fix my car for subs let me know 😁😁😁
@@fantajenkings4068 Ouch! that light bulb 💡 came on so bright it was dazzling, lol. 😂😂😂
Yes, exactly right - can't be overfilled provided the car is level. The oil just takes a few moments to go down the tube, but the tube is smaller than the fill hole. 👍
Part of the 'trick' is to put the last 200ml or so in slowly. 😎
I have a 2008 vw polo 9n what type of transmission do I need. It's automatic with a tip tronic
Really need to know which engine and where you are, but I'm 70% certain it's this amzn.to/3mpTwsj
I have a manual transmission vehicle. Which oil would you recommend?
Either Castrol Multivehicle or Mannol Unigear
@@CycloneCyd Would you recommend Castrol Syntrans Fe 75w this oil?
where abouts is the fill plug for the gear box oil, its a VOLKSWAGEN POLO E 55 05 plate know where the drain plug is, just cant find the fill plug.
Usually about halfway up the front or rear gearbox side.
Wonderful! I'll give it a go with my seat ibiza 2003. It does look like a bit of a frustrating job though!
Somewhat awkward but I wouldn't say frustrating. plan ahead and it's fairly simple.
Would it not be logical to change the gbox oil filter at the same time?
It would be IF the gearbox had an oil filter, but it doesn't. Very very few manuals do.
@@CycloneCyd ah okay never knew that mate! Appreciate it👌
sir nyc video , can i use sae 90 instead of 75w 90
If 90 is all you can get locally, then you've not much choice, but I suspect you'd have increased wear in cold weather and reduced economy. The gearchange when cold might suffer too.
1:03 the driveshaft is leaking ? You lose transmission fluid ?
It might have been, but we no longer have the car.
Thanks for this info.
Thanks for a nice information, i am also driving a polo 1.4 9N, BBY, Auto, petrol, 2003. i have never changed atf oil, i want to now. problem is i dont find any information on what kind of ATF oil to use. is Castro Dextron III useful for this car?
Yes, Dexron III. Castrol Transmax Z would be my choice
i replaced with dextron II and it is working great now! thank you so much!!
Dexron II? Should be Dexron III
oh sorry, it is typing error, i meant Dextron III. Thanks for caring!
but i drained 2 liters of ATF and replaced 2 litres, is it okay?
And also i have another problem, my battery was down do to longtime not started because i travelled, but when i was able to start the car after battery recharge i met with a fuel gauge error, every time and then the fuel gauge will move to full gauge then to empty and bip an alarm. after i checked the fuel pump fuse i found it blown off, i did replaced it but the problem still persists. I even refilled the fuel tank to full tank.
how many litres of transmission oil does this gearbox take ?
IIRC, 1.8 litres
Hi, bought a automatic polo at weekend and having problems with the revs. Pulls away fine but soon about to change to gear 1 to gear 2 revs really high but doesnt pick up speed. Had a mechanic say needs replacement clutch. Any ideas of the price range on a clutch for a polo 1.4 auto?
Thanks
I hadn't realised the auto must be an automated manual. I'd guess around £300 or so, but that is a guesstimate. Ring round for quotes - at least 3 and try to ring at least one place that's a transmission specialist.
Do let us know how you get on.
@@CycloneCyd Phoned around and most of the mechanics wont touch it. Its a semi auto and 1 mechanic said it was a DSG Gearbox and needs a specialised mechanic which won't be cheap. Will have to bite the bullet and loose half money I paid on it few days ago and re sell the car
@@stevemann2555 it's a shame so soon after getting it, but why not get it done? Is it a good car otherwise? All cars need a clutch at some time - it's a service item. If you sell on you lose half and have nothing to show for it. if you buy the clutch - ok it's effectively cost over the odds - but you've got a good car that could give plenty of good service. if you do the former, you've still gotta find money to re[place it. And that assumes you can sell it. Work out the total cost of each option and then weigh up your options.
@@CycloneCyd Yeah its a nice car, previous owner didnt specify all problems and I am a noob so didn't ask many questions and got home and loads problems with it amounting over 3x what I paid for the car. Best to get rid and search for another being more glued up next time. Do you know if I can sell this car with just the v5c green slip or do I have to wait until the whole logbook comes through?
Shame. Yeah, maybe move it on and put it down to experience then. We've all been there. You can't learn from mistakes you haven't made!!
Sorry dunno about the V5 thing.
Great vid pal !
Thank you Ross. Did you find the job easier for seeing how it's done?
hi 2008 polo 1.4 engine how much and which oil we have to use sir?
VW polo jerk lightly on lower speed but on high speed i DNT feel it ..what can be the reason???
Throttle body clean? ruclips.net/video/qn5nT5jJtNA/видео.html Dirty MAP? ruclips.net/video/pgPCrioK-6A/видео.html
Let us know how you get on
Tiny vacuum leak?
Excellent info
Glad it was helpful! Did you change your successfully?
This might be a silly question,is this a manual transmission?
YES
@@CycloneCyd Thank you
which transmission oil is good for my golf 4 ? i bought Castrol ATF DEX II MULTIVEHICLE is it ok
use something not thick. 7rw i think and use oem. other is too thick and would cause hard shift when cold.
I need to change the oil of the automatic gearbox of my Polo 9N 1.4 from 2003. Could you give me some tips? Thanks
Hi Sergio, thanks for watching and interacting. I'm not familiar with any specific requirements of that 'box, but in general with autos it's not possible to drain the torque convertor without specialist equipment. So drain the oil pan and refill the 'box to the correct level with fresh oil and run it for 10,000 miles and then repeat. If the box doesn't have a dipstick, put back in as much as you drain out. After the second drain, repeat every 25,000 miles.
Hello I have a problem with a VW Polo 2003 1.2, when I turn on my car the gears won’t go in, only reverse gear goes in but it wont go back out but when the car engine is off the gears do go in with no problem, what could be wrong with that? Clutch maybe? Or the transmission fluid?
sounds like the clutch to me
good video but at 0.34 it would have been good if you could have filmed from outside shot to inside as opposed to just cutting to the inside shot of undoing bolt
hook stunk Danis thanks for the tip. I'll try that on a future video.
Hi, really helpful video and well explained. I'm about to change mine would you say febi bilstien oil from eurocarparts was for this car?
Hi there sodaclublad, thanks for watching. Don't forget to like the video and consider subscribing.
Yeah, FB is what I used. My first choice for manual transmission fluid is Castrol Multivehicle usually (see thumbnail) but it's a 75/90 and this box is specified for 75 which the FB is. Plus it's easily available at ECP.
@@CycloneCyd thank you for the advice. I'm going to do the clutch too as it's juddering like mad setting off. Have subscribed
@@sodaclublad Oh, do let us know how you get on doing the clutch. Just make sure you haven't got a knackered engine mount first, that's another possible cause.
@@CycloneCyd thanks will let you know! And no I have already changed the bottom mount. When releasing the clutch it's as if the flywheel and clutch are not flat with eachother. Hopefully it'll be a Eureka moment when I see inside.
@@sodaclublad good luck.
Hi mate, great quality vid, well done.
Pls comment on a few items pls:
Is it really worth using VW oil?
Would a polo 1.6 2008 transmission need resetting after an oil change?
I did an oil change and the shifting is still jerky from 2-3, and reverse, once the car is hot, I’m looking to change the valve body, hence the question about resetting.
Cheers
Valve body? Is it an automatic?
Confirming that it is an auto transmission.
@@nevilledewinnaar7349 I'm a big fan of Castrol transmission fluids, and use Multivehicle MTF in my Saab. I'd suggest Transmax for ATF. This is the Castrol Transmax page - on the left is a oil finder so you can make sure to get the correct type. bit.ly/Castrol_TMax_Home.
I wouldn't have thought an auto would need resetting after a fluid change. I'd suggest driving it normally for 2-3000 miles with an auto cleaner added (amzn.to/382oxfE) and then changing again. If it has got sticky valves it might free up with the new fluid. ATF has virtually no detergent content (unlike engine oil).
How many liter use .. 3liter or more?
Hi m8,
wondering ig I can use the Castrol Synstrans Transaxle 75W90 (GL4+) instead of the 75W90 (GL4)? It´s a 02T transmission from a 1.6 Skoda Fabia.
What does the + mean?
Regards
Dom
I think, but am not 100% certain that the plus means it's got hypoid properties, hence the term transaxle in the name - it's for use cases where hypoid properties are required. I wouldn't imagine that would do any 'harm', since the hypoid element is the addition of extreme pressure additives, but having used Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle in my Saab 'box, I'd stick with it.
If you've already got the oil then use it, but if you've got to buy it, then buy the recommended stuff would be my 'take'.
Cyclone Cyd THX - I allready have it ... I'll Change it later this day.
I'd suggest a 'box fluid change every 50,000 miles anyway so I can't see it doing any harm and anyway that Castrol is mighty good stuff.
I have 2003 Skoda with the same transmission, still on original gear oil, 35 000 miles on it. Is it worth to replace ithe gear oil?
YES
How do I know the correct DSG dextron to use on this vw polo?
what if u use ramps to lift the car, is it safe to move car from ramps with drained oil from gearbox?
Hi Kryštof , welcome aboard. Yes, just let the car roll off the ramps. Keep your foot on the brake to control it. Don't start the engine with an empty gearbox though.
@@CycloneCyd okay, thank you :)
How much liter oil is needed for a polo 9n 1.4 16v 101 hp in gearbox?
Hello Hunor. I'm on holiday just now. IIRC it'll be 1.8litre but if you can wait a week I can look it up.
This is the best
amzn.to/2y2w9Bh
well done mate !
thanks Alex
Thanks helpfull
Glad to hear that
Thank you
Thanks, helpful! ;-)
thank you too
Nice informative video:)
You have some wery usable content! Let's get you to 332 subs ;)
Thanks. I've returned the favour. I'll explore your channel at the weekend - right now is bed time! Gotta be up at 5!
how i check the level?
see comment and replies below from Chris jenkins, where we discuss this at length.
Do let us know how you get on.
I.didnt even know.unhad to.do.this in a maneul only autos
OEs will say that gearboxes are "filled for life". What the won't tell you though is that "life" is 120,000 miles. Which means 50% will fail before that. So, if you want to extend the life of your 'box ..... you know the song!
(this isn't a cast iron guarantee, but for a small outlay and easy work once every few years, you can stack the odds in your favour)
Thank you very much, your video helped me replace the oil in the transmission. I just have a dilemma whether I've poured enough oil. I used one bottle and I have almost 300ml of the other bottle left ibb.co/Fq8414r. The oil went out, and I stopped quitting. The car was on the flat. In comments it says that it takes 1.8l of oil, and I poured 1.7. So I doubt the car was on an ideal flat surface ...
I have 02T gearbox and also some 300ml remained in the bottle. Btw official guide says that gearbox must be run for 2 mins and then oil-level re-check, who knows what cavities there are...
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