Dynojet does use a correction factor and also has a weather station. Also, people like Dynojet because it is an inertia dyno and a Mustang is a load dyno that requires the correct vehicle weight to correctly measure hp so Mustang numbers can be off if the wrong weight is used. This is why the C8 Corvettes were showing 550 rwhp when they first came out on a Mustang Dyno before the Mustang software was updated with C8 info and the Dyno operators were using C7 Data.
yea i was like wow so much incorrect info within 30 seconds is crazy lol they're only as real as the data put into it .. you can make that car say 400 or 150 pending weight lol
Dynos overseas don't read wheel horsepower. They might measure the power at the wheels but the dyno graph gives you brake horsepower. A lot of people don't seem to know this, even the people who own the cars lol. Almost all dynos in Europe give you bhp readouts.
Made 368whp and 416wtq on my 98 volvo fbo billet wheel on wmi 100oct... And mk7 apr stage 2 stays with me pretty well til 80mph.. Not all about peak numbers. Its power under the curve amd delivery.
The Stage 2 GTI has something amiss. APRs numbers are solid on the graphs - a Stage 2 with appropriate modification should be pushing past 300whp (or 330bhp). The Stage 3 car is the same - he's missing a good 25whp from something wrong in the modification. First thing before modding your car, learn the difference between BHP & WHP and don't quote them as if they are the same :-) A stock location IC upgrade, TIP, and .024 gapped plugs would get you a bit better than what APR reports. Your WTQ is pretty close and it's not holding, otherwise you'd have more WHP than what you achieved.
6:03 I love hearing disappointed dyno reactions🤣🤣 Most people don’t even know there’s different types of dynos, so many factors go into the results, and most importantly they can be manipulated by the tuner.
And again, the is38 is not making 330whp. Unless you are running a 91oct file. You should be at around 360whp. Regardless, I would stay away from any ots tune with an is38. Get a proper pro tune and run e30 and you'll be pushing nearly 400whp. No need for a big turbo. You could even do a hybrid and run more power safely.
If you are making 400 wheel and especially 400+ wtq it ain't "safe". Even with a tune that is "safe" you're at the limit of the engine. It may last 30,000 or 50,000 miles but it will not be going 200,000 miles on that engine.
All that nonsense about Dynojet was hilarious. Mustang dyno #s can be changed by changing parameters. You can't do that with Dynojet. They do have correction factors and weather stations 🤦♂️
I'm running is38 non pp gti 407 whp 400 wtq dyno jet though with meth injection. Honestly I jumped from 360 to 407 just changing to hpa hpfp and meth injection.
Midwest Mopars my buddy with the 2015 had his IS20 failing, so he upgraded to the IS38. Supposedly in the 2016’s they fixed that issue, I haven’t had any signs of turbo failure
The early model failures are pretty much done with. They have either been replaced under warranties or upgraded. Im on a '15 IS20 (78k Miles) with no issues what-so-ever and push 296hp/368tq on stg 1. Just make sure to inspect your turbos before tuning if you are that worried.
You're stage 2 is not making 286whp. Unless you are running a 91oct tune or you are running the new revised apr tune which has been significantly turned down. I was at nearly 320whp with my current set up and Apr advertises 309whp for my apr tune. I have the old apr tune 93oct and high torque.
Actually the new revised stg 2 apr tune supposedly make more hp and less torque to help with the horrible surge coming out of 1st gear in manual shift mode.
This is why I moved on from my MK7 after Stage 1 I accepted it wasn’t going to get reliably to my goals, and also afraid my after market clutch was going to cause crank walk. Swapped into a B8.5 s4 and I’m much happier! Heavier yes... but better in every other way and barely any more money. Just software and intake is even if not a bit faster than is38 on my GTi would’ve been and I haven’t even gotten into pulleys or porting yet 😈 Don’t get me wrong I LOVED my stage Mk7, it’s a brilliant car. Handled very well for what it was and took a few muscle cars by surprise from a roll...
@@tdub616 Maybe 3 years? I already moved on from the s4 also. Both were great cars for me, but I also only had them for a few years. I change cars every 3-4 on average. When you're tuning and pushing things it helps to get out before the big headaches. I have a 2018 340i now, four door Supra baby. b58 powered!
Heard you guys talking about issues with 2015s, I was looking at buying a 2015 GTI and going stage 2, should I be looking at different years or what’s your opinion? Thanks! PS. I’m also in CT :)
The early first production 2015’s had turbo issues, but most of them were fixed via warranty or upgraded to IS38. Get a 2016 so you can use Apple car play (:
Anthony Misakian I’ll look into 2016s just to be safer haha thank you. Also 1 more question, I see some people saying going stage 2 on the IS20 is risky and should upgrade before, have you had any problems cause I’m really not looking to do that until way later down the road. Obviously if it’s one of the earlier prod that already had issues it’d be a problem but say a 2016 would the issue still remain @stage 2?
Sidithian it’s completely safe to go Stage 2 on the IS20. You have to think about how many GTi owners are stage 2/3 and beat them up daily with no issues.
Bought my 2015 gti a week after they were introduced in 2014. I'm stage 2 at 60,000 miles. No turbo issues but still planning to upgrade to a is38. I heard the is20 turbo issue was rather isolated and not widespread to every early 2015 model.
I own a Dynojet and it absolutely has a real time weather station and will display both corrected and Un-corrected. Just pick a shop you like and trust then stay on that dyno with your car. It’s giving you the ability to see the effects of what your doing to your car in real time. Positive or negative. I primarily do SCCA and other road race cars. If we can pick up 7hp on a Spec Miata your going to see the results on track. You could dyno that car today on a dyno and take it to another dyno the very next day and see that 7hp difference from simply using a different dyno. Doesn’t mean you picked anything up. That shop in the video looks very clean and organized. I’d feel comfortable sticking to that dyno with my car. A dyno is simply a tuning tool. Not really the true horsepower of your car.
I have APR stg2 GTI 93oct also and got 272whp 344tq. I have APR intake, downpipe, Remus cat back with RS ignition kit. I was also surprised with how low it was lol.
@@Sus_blues They aren't the safest on the market, that's probably Unitronic. My stage 2 Uni peaks at 21 psi. APR is like 26 psi and makes 50 more lb/ft of torque down at 3,000 rpm. That's a lot more load on the engine and stress on the turbo. I made 280/305 with APR Intercooler, Unitronic downpipe and Unitronic stage 2 91 octane. Everything else stock. The car could definitely make more power with another tune but like I said it only hits 21 psi and I can beat on it all day long over and over, I can even drive up to 7,000 ft elevation and it still hits 21 psi and feels identical to 1,500 ft elevation. Try asking your is20 to hit 26 or 28 psi at 7,000 ft. It wont be able to, and might explode trying lol. I am switching to IS38 and Uni stage 2+ 91 octane. It'll probly make 320 which again is low for an is38 but I can beat on it every day for 200,000 miles at 7,000 ft elevation on 91 octane gas no problem.
Agreed. I also have a MK7.5 Unitronic Stage 2 with CTS DP+IC, Cold air intake+turbo inlet, diverter valve, and stock catback exhaust. I consistently made 285/310 on 91 octane, and this is with a safe tune. Sure there are more aggressive tunes out there. But I can beat on this car at stage 2 all day long and not have to worry about the harm I'm doing to the engine. Plus gap some people sleeping while doing it. If I end up wanting more power in the future I'll just throw the is38 on, but driving in the city, I barely get to open up my Stage 2 as is.
One of you should add an intercooler and do back to back dynos again to measure the difference. From someone who is at stage 2 and is seriously considering an is38. Thanks for doing this comparison 👍👍👍
This adds up regardless of what the dyno reads. About 50 whp difference between the two turbos and quite a bit of area under the curves.
holdup why are the back wheels moving
Dudeeee i was thinking the same thing but no one in the comments said anything about it wtf jajajsjsja
@@HeyImLxiizZ it’s an awd dyno so it will spin all
Dynojet does use a correction factor and also has a weather station. Also, people like Dynojet because it is an inertia dyno and a Mustang is a load dyno that requires the correct vehicle weight to correctly measure hp so Mustang numbers can be off if the wrong weight is used. This is why the C8 Corvettes were showing 550 rwhp when they first came out on a Mustang Dyno before the Mustang software was updated with C8 info and the Dyno operators were using C7 Data.
Interesting So they should be issuing refunds or giving prior disclosure about incorrect weight data.
yea i was like wow so much incorrect info within 30 seconds is crazy lol they're only as real as the data put into it .. you can make that car say 400 or 150 pending weight lol
Can't even count how many cars I've ripped through that tunnel
And the other guy is like 385whp and 420ft lbs torque
Why are all of the stage 3+ MK7 GTI’s overseas make more power 480-520hp at the wheels
Prob not the SAE corrected numbers. Who knows
Because APR Stage 3 uses a EFR 7163 turbo not a IS38. As far a I know.
E85, much bigger turbines, water-meth injection, and much more aggressive tune (APR tune is one of the mildest tune you can get on the market)
Dynos overseas don't read wheel horsepower. They might measure the power at the wheels but the dyno graph gives you brake horsepower. A lot of people don't seem to know this, even the people who own the cars lol. Almost all dynos in Europe give you bhp readouts.
I got a pop tune but my pops are not that loud what tune did you use ?
im stage 2 plus with stock turbo and my mk7 makes 350whp and 430wtq. And this was on a mustang dyno. Yall need to get better tunes lol. (Im EQT)
Made 368whp and 416wtq on my 98 volvo fbo billet wheel on wmi 100oct... And mk7 apr stage 2 stays with me pretty well til 80mph.. Not all about peak numbers. Its power under the curve amd delivery.
If it’s mustang dyno it’s multiply your numbers by 16%. That’s like 335whp and like 415ft pounds
What shop is this? And where abouts in CT? I might like to take my EQT Stg 2+ e30 tune there for comparison.
ACI Dynamix in Seymour
The Stage 2 GTI has something amiss. APRs numbers are solid on the graphs - a Stage 2 with appropriate modification should be pushing past 300whp (or 330bhp). The Stage 3 car is the same - he's missing a good 25whp from something wrong in the modification.
First thing before modding your car, learn the difference between BHP & WHP and don't quote them as if they are the same :-)
A stock location IC upgrade, TIP, and .024 gapped plugs would get you a bit better than what APR reports. Your WTQ is pretty close and it's not holding, otherwise you'd have more WHP than what you achieved.
6:03 I love hearing disappointed dyno reactions🤣🤣
Most people don’t even know there’s different types of dynos, so many factors go into the results, and most importantly they can be manipulated by the tuner.
My co worker has been telling me these things make 420whp with a couple bolt on but I have yet to see one make anything close to that lol.
Tire noise sounding like an air raid siren lool
Can someone tell these guys the is38 is not stage 3. It's 2+ at best. Just like the kO4 isn't stage 3 for the mk6
Apr is38 is stage 3 .
Afr numbers?
And again, the is38 is not making 330whp. Unless you are running a 91oct file. You should be at around 360whp. Regardless, I would stay away from any ots tune with an is38. Get a proper pro tune and run e30 and you'll be pushing nearly 400whp. No need for a big turbo. You could even do a hybrid and run more power safely.
my is38 makes 420 on 91... with klots fuel additives so like 100 oct ish it was a proper tune
If you are making 400 wheel and especially 400+ wtq it ain't "safe". Even with a tune that is "safe" you're at the limit of the engine. It may last 30,000 or 50,000 miles but it will not be going 200,000 miles on that engine.
If you run Klotz Nitro you'll add another 5 to 7% hp. I run an IS-38 and E30 on an APR stg 3 tune. Good for 425-ish hp while still OK on AFR
All that nonsense about Dynojet was hilarious. Mustang dyno #s can be changed by changing parameters. You can't do that with Dynojet. They do have correction factors and weather stations 🤦♂️
Topo
Is the gray one running the maxton wing extension??
Yes, I have the full maxton kit on it now
I'm running is38 non pp gti 407 whp 400 wtq dyno jet though with meth injection. Honestly I jumped from 360 to 407 just changing to hpa hpfp and meth injection.
Yeah, you get incredibly more timing out of cooler EGTs.
APR 3+ is the 7163 turbo. Lol
You have just IS38. Which is just Stage 3.
So the IS20 isn’t reliable? I keep hearing a lot of IS20s and IS38s blow up when tuned
Midwest Mopars my buddy with the 2015 had his IS20 failing, so he upgraded to the IS38. Supposedly in the 2016’s they fixed that issue, I haven’t had any signs of turbo failure
Anthony Misakian thank you
The early model failures are pretty much done with. They have either been replaced under warranties or upgraded. Im on a '15 IS20 (78k Miles) with no issues what-so-ever and push 296hp/368tq on stg 1. Just make sure to inspect your turbos before tuning if you are that worried.
Charles Saul thanks!
@@CharlesSaul i'm on a 2014 TT Quattro IS20, 310hp/335tq. for almost 90 thousand km's. WIll be upgrading to a hybrid soon ;)
You're stage 2 is not making 286whp. Unless you are running a 91oct tune or you are running the new revised apr tune which has been significantly turned down. I was at nearly 320whp with my current set up and Apr advertises 309whp for my apr tune. I have the old apr tune 93oct and high torque.
Carlos Lopez I have the high torque 93 octane file, aggressive pops and bangs
it’s a mustang dyno.....
Actually the new revised stg 2 apr tune supposedly make more hp and less torque to help with the horrible surge coming out of 1st gear in manual shift mode.
Every dyno can read very different
Dynos are just tools . The drag strip is where performance is measured .
My stage 1 apr 7.5 GTi is 327hp 397lb ft
Probably APR stage 3 vs COBB stage 3. APR is up near 400 while Cobb is only like 300 max. So it depends who the stage 3 tune is from.
Mustang is not the realest 😂😂
This is why I moved on from my MK7 after Stage 1 I accepted it wasn’t going to get reliably to my goals, and also afraid my after market clutch was going to cause crank walk.
Swapped into a B8.5 s4 and I’m much happier! Heavier yes... but better in every other way and barely any more money. Just software and intake is even if not a bit faster than is38 on my GTi would’ve been and I haven’t even gotten into pulleys or porting yet 😈
Don’t get me wrong I LOVED my stage Mk7, it’s a brilliant car. Handled very well for what it was and took a few muscle cars by surprise from a roll...
should’ve just gotten an auto
How long did you have your mk7 for? I just got one as a daily for the meantime and will probably go stage 1 but idk how long I’ll keep the car for
@@tdub616 Maybe 3 years? I already moved on from the s4 also. Both were great cars for me, but I also only had them for a few years.
I change cars every 3-4 on average. When you're tuning and pushing things it helps to get out before the big headaches.
I have a 2018 340i now, four door Supra baby. b58 powered!
@@thomasburns3345 wow i don’t blame you! I already want something faster🤣
@@tdub616 It's a sickness for sure haha
Heard you guys talking about issues with 2015s, I was looking at buying a 2015 GTI and going stage 2, should I be looking at different years or what’s your opinion? Thanks! PS. I’m also in CT :)
The early first production 2015’s had turbo issues, but most of them were fixed via warranty or upgraded to IS38. Get a 2016 so you can use Apple car play (:
Anthony Misakian I’ll look into 2016s just to be safer haha thank you. Also 1 more question, I see some people saying going stage 2 on the IS20 is risky and should upgrade before, have you had any problems cause I’m really not looking to do that until way later down the road. Obviously if it’s one of the earlier prod that already had issues it’d be a problem but say a 2016 would the issue still remain @stage 2?
Sidithian it’s completely safe to go Stage 2 on the IS20. You have to think about how many GTi owners are stage 2/3 and beat them up daily with no issues.
@@davidrelyea6284 Just got my 2016 GTI SE w/LP yesterday. Super excited about it and love it already.
Bought my 2015 gti a week after they were introduced in 2014. I'm stage 2 at 60,000 miles. No turbo issues but still planning to upgrade to a is38. I heard the is20 turbo issue was rather isolated and not widespread to every early 2015 model.
This can’t be right.... my APR stage 3+ mk7 git made 499whp on the dyno.... do you have a 91oct tune?
You cant make more than 480 on a stock is38 what turbo??
Don Don I believe its the 7163 turbo not is38
Stock intercoolers?
It’s recommended to get bigger intercooler
1:44 thats obviously a GTR
You guys ever run them against each other???
b good yes, the Is38 gaps bus lengths
I own a Dynojet and it absolutely has a real time weather station and will display both corrected and Un-corrected. Just pick a shop you like and trust then stay on that dyno with your car. It’s giving you the ability to see the effects of what your doing to your car in real time. Positive or negative. I primarily do SCCA and other road race cars. If we can pick up 7hp on a Spec Miata your going to see the results on track. You could dyno that car today on a dyno and take it to another dyno the very next day and see that 7hp difference from simply using a different dyno. Doesn’t mean you picked anything up. That shop in the video looks very clean and organized. I’d feel comfortable sticking to that dyno with my car. A dyno is simply a tuning tool. Not really the true horsepower of your car.
I have APR stg2 GTI 93oct also and got 272whp 344tq. I have APR intake, downpipe, Remus cat back with RS ignition kit. I was also surprised with how low it was lol.
Upgrade the stock location IC and add a TIP - ensure you are gapped to at least .024 and the power will be there.
@@MegaHollywood1971 I have RS ignition kit and a CTS turbo inlet pipe. APR's numbers are on stock IC
@@perfectxzero4037 APRs tunes are the safest on the market. Get a Cobb access and go EQT or sneekytuned and you’ll easily push 320-350
@@Sus_blues They aren't the safest on the market, that's probably Unitronic. My stage 2 Uni peaks at 21 psi. APR is like 26 psi and makes 50 more lb/ft of torque down at 3,000 rpm. That's a lot more load on the engine and stress on the turbo. I made 280/305 with APR Intercooler, Unitronic downpipe and Unitronic stage 2 91 octane. Everything else stock. The car could definitely make more power with another tune but like I said it only hits 21 psi and I can beat on it all day long over and over, I can even drive up to 7,000 ft elevation and it still hits 21 psi and feels identical to 1,500 ft elevation. Try asking your is20 to hit 26 or 28 psi at 7,000 ft. It wont be able to, and might explode trying lol. I am switching to IS38 and Uni stage 2+ 91 octane. It'll probly make 320 which again is low for an is38 but I can beat on it every day for 200,000 miles at 7,000 ft elevation on 91 octane gas no problem.
Agreed. I also have a MK7.5 Unitronic Stage 2 with CTS DP+IC, Cold air intake+turbo inlet, diverter valve, and stock catback exhaust. I consistently made 285/310 on 91 octane, and this is with a safe tune. Sure there are more aggressive tunes out there. But I can beat on this car at stage 2 all day long and not have to worry about the harm I'm doing to the engine. Plus gap some people sleeping while doing it. If I end up wanting more power in the future I'll just throw the is38 on, but driving in the city, I barely get to open up my Stage 2 as is.
One of you should add an intercooler and do back to back dynos again to measure the difference.
From someone who is at stage 2 and is seriously considering an is38. Thanks for doing this comparison 👍👍👍
His car is not a stage 3+🤦🏽♂️
Joe’s car is stage 4+
Yeah this is why i stopped at apr stage 2. If I wanted more power I wouldve just bought something will a bigger engine
You need some ethanol in your life bruv
Kudos to you 🎉
Get intercoolers already....
Dirk bet
Well if you rally look a mk4 gti with gt30 makes about the same power so it good number but many of factor elevation fuel heat soak . Shot meth
i have gti clubsport stage 1 370whp HAHAHAH
Same shit clubsport has is38 standard which you pay for anyway cause it’s more expensive than a normal gti lol
@@DonDon-xe2ov and? it has lsd and different bumpers, alacantara steering wheel? much nicer wheels? spoiler? all shit u dont get on standard gti
@@turok637 only thing worth anything is the lsd...
@@turok637 Not on a Mustang dyno you didn’t.
imagine losing to a is20 eqt stage 2 e30 gti hehe
And then that car losing to an IS20 Sneekytuned E30 GTI
@@MeltingRubberZ28 incorrect, we’ve seen the outcome of this multiple times eqt always wins
@@jacobp7740 I'd love to see that. My buddy has both tunes on his AP and sneekytuned is night and day faster
@@MeltingRubberZ28 are you in eqt chat? Plenty of real life kills on there, every sneaky tuned guy says the same thing cuz they wasted their money
@@jacobp7740 no. Not sure what that's even on....YT is the only "social media" I have. However, I've only seen sneeky=5150>EQT>APR