Thank you for the video. I just did this on my 1998 F150 4.6 with an 8.8 rear axle. A very important thing to note is that the drivers side axel is NOT the same length as the passenger side axle on my truck. They are different lengths no matter what your parts counter person says. When you take your axles out, keep the old ones for comparison until the new ones are installed. Also, let the bearings and seals sit in the freezer for an hour or so, they go in much easier. Great video, thank you for sharing.
very good vid, like that you mentioned pt#'s, those are the same for '04-'08 8.8 rear also just did mine .. only thing i would add is a couple of ocd things like clean the cover and top before opening, clean the brake area before you pull the axles, and clean/shiney up the bearing and seal area of the axle before reassembly, 600g paper is about perfect, just even up the surface with it to break the glaze alittle the new stuff wont ride in exactly the same spots .. and again, be sure the bearing and seal area is super clean and you knocked any rust off the outer edge so its not pulled into your new seal when your putting on the c-clips ..
awesome video. was intimidated by this one (im pretty sure i have a bad bearing on my '17) but im feeling much better about tackling this. clear and concise- thank you for your time!
Great video. Was going to send my 04 F-150 to the shop for this same issue. I'm pretty sure this old retiree and a friend can handle this in a couple hrs. Thanks for the info !!
I did not but they say you should. I’ve actually had that bolt break on me twice on my 2003 f150 and it’s not fun extracting that out of there. So that’s why I don’t always choose to use thread locker.
Great job with a lot of tips that nobody else showed. But, I have one question that is probably unexpected. It looks like you were wearing some overalls/coveralls. I’m getting tired of getting my clothes ruined, but cannot find anything other than farmer coveralls. Who makes the blue ones that you’re wearing?
Great video. My 2017 f150 has in and out axle play with a clunk. It only has 25,000 miles on it. It’s stock. Is the play really there to remove the c clips? Is the audible axle clunk normal. It even seems rough rotating the diff on Jack stands with the e brake off. Is it the internal clutches I feel? I am a mechanic like yourself. So this clunk bothers me, but I don’t want to take apart a pretty new truck unless I need to. My warranty has just expired too. What should I do. I have traced the clunk to the axles. This is positive. Thanks.
There shouldn’t be any play in the axles with the pinion shaft in because that’s what locks the c clips in place. I wonder if your backlash is off or something but you wouldn’t think being it’s a newer truck.Sucks that it’s out of warranty. You could always pull the fill plug and see if anything is attached to the magnet and if so maybe pull the cover to inspect? I’m not to familiar with a 2017.
@@iamlazarow3526 it was the axles loose in the housings. We replaced the c clips and filled with schaffers 75 90wt and it’s fixed. Ford service is just stupid. They lied to me and said they took it apart. They never drained the rear end. I marked the plug.
Great video. I am curious that you did not use a bead of the gasket maker (many other videos apply a bead ), but just a coating that you applied with your finger. Has that generally been sufficient for sealing the axle cover? Thanks
Thanks man. You can do either way I’ve never had a problem or leaks from just smearing it with my finger the biggest thing is letting it setup and cure before you start adding the gear oil.
Make sure you select the CORRECT SIZE for the Removal. The 1 he selects IS ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!! Choose the puller head that contacts the BEARINGS, NOT the 1 that’s the same size as the RACE!!! F.Y.I., If you’re going to demonstrate a video, be CORRECT with your info!!!
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was scared of rear ends forever. you showed me that this is an easy fix. great video, great editing, an absolute superb job.
This job at a shop would cost so much money. Thank you for saving my family lots of money
You are the best, man: smart and humble.
Appreciate it.
Thank you for the video. I just did this on my 1998 F150 4.6 with an 8.8 rear axle. A very important thing to note is that the drivers side axel is NOT the same length as the passenger side axle on my truck. They are different lengths no matter what your parts counter person says. When you take your axles out, keep the old ones for comparison until the new ones are installed. Also, let the bearings and seals sit in the freezer for an hour or so, they go in much easier. Great video, thank you for sharing.
Did you have to get the axle replaced too or just the seals and bearings?
very good vid, like that you mentioned pt#'s, those are the same for '04-'08 8.8 rear also just did mine .. only thing i would add is a couple of ocd things like clean the cover and top before opening, clean the brake area before you pull the axles, and clean/shiney up the bearing and seal area of the axle before reassembly, 600g paper is about perfect, just even up the surface with it to break the glaze alittle the new stuff wont ride in exactly the same spots .. and again, be sure the bearing and seal area is super clean and you knocked any rust off the outer edge so its not pulled into your new seal when your putting on the c-clips ..
awesome video. was intimidated by this one (im pretty sure i have a bad bearing on my '17) but im feeling much better about tackling this. clear and concise- thank you for your time!
You make it look really easy, you must have done this for awhile thank you for sharing you knowledge
Thanks for the great video! Finally a video that gets right to the point! Saved us a ton! Thanks man!
Great video. Was going to send my 04 F-150 to the shop for this same issue. I'm pretty sure this old retiree and a friend can handle this in a couple hrs. Thanks for the info !!
Awesome video love the details. Thank you for taking the extra time to show step-by-step on the video.
You made this stupid simple. Best video on yt for sure.
Lol, when the second clip fell out. I knew exactly where that dam thing went. Every time!
Thank you, it greatly help me to change mines!
Very well done AAA !!
Thank you, super helpful. I just fixed a leaking axle seal on my 97 f150. I’m curious did you put any thread locker on the pin you torqued at 30lbs?
I did not but they say you should. I’ve actually had that bolt break on me twice on my 2003 f150 and it’s not fun extracting that out of there. So that’s why I don’t always choose to use thread locker.
It helps when you use your driver properly. Try turning the plate around and then driving the bearing and seal in, it's much easier that way.
good video, thanks for taking the effort to make it!
It helps when u use the puller right tighten more than hand tight
Great job
Great work and detail on the video man. I have a 79 F250 you could do next.
Thanks I appreciate the positive feedback.
Awesome Video Sir thank you very much 👍
Great job with a lot of tips that nobody else showed. But, I have one question that is probably unexpected. It looks like you were wearing some overalls/coveralls. I’m getting tired of getting my clothes ruined, but cannot find anything other than farmer coveralls. Who makes the blue ones that you’re wearing?
It’s a pair just like these amzn.to/3TSPAF4 but the brand is Key I got mine from bomgarrs which is a farm and ranch store where I live.
Great video. My 2017 f150 has in and out axle play with a clunk. It only has 25,000 miles on it. It’s stock. Is the play really there to remove the c clips? Is the audible axle clunk normal. It even seems rough rotating the diff on Jack stands with the e brake off. Is it the internal clutches I feel? I am a mechanic like yourself. So this clunk bothers me, but I don’t want to take apart a pretty new truck unless I need to. My warranty has just expired too. What should I do. I have traced the clunk to the axles. This is positive. Thanks.
There shouldn’t be any play in the axles with the pinion shaft in because that’s what locks the c clips in place. I wonder if your backlash is off or something but you wouldn’t think being it’s a newer truck.Sucks that it’s out of warranty. You could always pull the fill plug and see if anything is attached to the magnet and if so maybe pull the cover to inspect? I’m not to familiar with a 2017.
did you address the clunk noise?
did you address the clunk noise?
@@iamlazarow3526 it was the axles loose in the housings. We replaced the c clips and filled with schaffers 75 90wt and it’s fixed. Ford service is just stupid. They lied to me and said they took it apart. They never drained the rear end. I marked the plug.
@@CoeShow619 I'm looking to do this seal/bearing repair on mine. I have a takeoff thump. I wonder if any of this will also fix that.
I have a 2018 f150 with the 8.8 dif, will it be the same process?
Yes it will be pretty much same procedure.
Such a great vid 💯
I always index the hub so that the splines go back the way they came. just in case there was some balancing before I touched it.
Never really thought of that I’ll keep that in mind next time. Thanks for the tip.
What year is this truck? 2wd or 4wd? Thank you for the great video
Thank you. It’s a 2005 4wd.
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE thank you for your response. Mine is 08 so should be the same
@@saulornelas1510 yes it will be the same.
I got a 9.75 gear and 8.8 axle wander why and how that's possible
I wonder why it never goes that smooth for me. Sorry to say that I was hoping to see that shaft lock bolt break.
👍👍
Stupid question: what's that sprocket on the other side of the ring gear ? Looks to be some sort a sensor trigger ring of some kind ?
It's the abs ring.
Awesome video
Lots of help
how much woukd this cost in total?
With labor and everything probably around $400
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE for both sides or just 1?
@@obedb093 that’s just for 1 with both probably around $550
Great video. I am curious that you did not use a bead of the gasket maker (many other videos apply a bead ), but just a coating that you applied with your finger. Has that generally been sufficient for sealing the axle cover? Thanks
Thanks man. You can do either way I’ve never had a problem or leaks from just smearing it with my finger the biggest thing is letting it setup and cure before you start adding the gear oil.
So much less scary than I thought
one shop was trying to charge me 1000 for this, i think thats too much, gonna get a second quote from somewhere else
update- went to another shop and it turned out to be the pinion bearing and seal, they quoted around 500, guess I have to get it fixed
if u cant get the plug out just fill some ziplock baggys and close her up lol it works lol i seent it before (if u have no choice)
Never lift truck by pumpkin
Make sure you select the CORRECT SIZE for the Removal. The 1 he selects IS ABSOLUTELY WRONG!!! Choose the puller head that contacts the BEARINGS, NOT the 1 that’s the same size as the RACE!!! F.Y.I., If you’re going to demonstrate a video, be CORRECT with your info!!!
If you already know how to do it the right way then why are you watching this video???
@@BLUECOLLARGARAGE unfortunately some people just can't help themselves - id love to see his video... oh wait... lol
@@williammagarian3712 😂 yeah I think that’s all some people do is sit there and troll all day.
That would rip the rollers out and leave the race behind.