DIY Differential Bearing Replacement 2015 Ford F 150
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Here I'm replacing the bearings and races in the rear differential of a 2015 Ford F-150 with the electronically locking differential. At the time of replacement, I believe the truck was at about 83,000 miles, and is my daily driver, and used often to tow a fiberglass boat and trailer without breaks. I'm not sure if the loading of towing at speed for long distances plus the aggressive engine breaking in "tow haul" mode contributed to this failure, but it became apparent that I needed new bearings. This is a repair that doesn't cost a ton in parts, but can get pretty pricey in labor if you take it to a shop. I should also mention that the parts were very difficult to find at the time of this replacement, and most places had them on back order.
The process I am showing in this video definitely isn't best practice, or the Ford approved method, but I wanted to show how I completed this repair with the tools I had on hand. I did take as much care as I could to ensure that everything was lined up during re-installation, and even then kept a eye out for any signs of trouble for the next thousand miles or so.
Things that definitely made this job easier were a set of tall "truck" jack stands to get the extra room underneath, as well as a large bearing separator (which I picked up cheap at Harbor Freight). I hope this give you a little sense of what can be done by a DIY-er at home, as well as the process you're up against if you are planning to do this on your own vehicle. 
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It's been awhile since I've seen a video. These are fun ones to work on. I had to pull the axles out of a chevy 78 van one time. Was pretty easy
I totally agree that it's rewarding, and definitely money saving. For some reason when it's your daily driver that you need to get back in service, repairs are just a little less fun though lol.
Great Job on this differential. I did the same for my Dodge Ram a couple of years ago. I wished I had videotaped it for my channel. It’s still going strong. I had to replace the ring gear and pinion as well as all the bearings. This is not an easy job but you explain it so well that even a novice could do it. Well done!
Thank you! It's definitely a job that takes some persistence and improvising. Definitely more involved to replace the ring gear and pinion, since you really do have to shim them from scratch. Glad to hear it's still running well!
Good move on going with the OEM bearings!
Excellent video
Thank you!
Good job by doing it on the floor buddy!
Thank you! I got a house and finally now have a lift!
Cool video! Informative & well explained, Enjoyable to watch. Thumbs up.
Great vid man. Thanks.
Couldn’t you have put the truck in neutral and rotated the shaft to where you needed? lol
Weren't the two metal tabs on the coil, suppose go vertically on the front of the side bearing platform and not just one?
Great video, i have the same truck and need to do this on mine. How much was the bearing kit?
I'm replacing the carrier. Is there a certain position to install the e lock
Have you ever done a front diff beariung replacement, like inboard of the wheel bearing. Also, seems like too low of miles for front or rear diff bearings on you rtruck, geez, I just replaced my front ones because I was replacing the suspension and figured while I was there. Also my rear bearings are still fine and I haul and tow alot and I'm at 202,000 miles. But I like your channel, you do things like I do, work with the tools you have. Don't get me wrong, it's always nice to have the right tool, but sometimes we just have to make due.
Where did you find the torque spec for the pinion bearing?
same procedurr for f250?
I can't speak for the f250 in particular, as even different f150 models come with different rear ends. In general however, the procedure for differential bearing replacement is very similar regardless of the differential.
Hey man if you can take the time out of your day to read this and answer a few questions for me it would be greatly appreciated. So I have a moped / scooter and I’ve been having this super annoying problem where you can cold start it and itll start just fine rev up while cold, even after it warms up itll rev up good. Take it for a ride and while your into the ride it will big down on you and die. It’ll start back up and idle normally but as soon as you twist the throttle it’ll big down and either die or keep idling. Also if you got for a short ride then turn it off and let it sit there for a while then go to turn it on it’ll have that bogging problem again and not want to go. I have changed the spark plug cleaned out the jets and air filter is good so I don’t know what the problem is but if you have any idea or tip on what it is it would be greatly appreciated because I’m ready to sell the thing 🤦🏽♂️
I'm not a scooter or small engine expert by any means, but this sounds a lot like a carburetor issue. I know you said you cleaned the jets, did you disassemble the carb completely and let it soak in carb cleaner? When the scooters are cold they often have an auto choke type thing that richens the mixture. Once you lose this, if you have any restrictions in the main jet or fuel delivery, then it will lean out an die. Another thing to check for is a vacuum leak, which is anywhere air may be getting in behind the throttle plate (leaky pcv, egr, torn gasket, etc.), though this would typically cause the scooter to die at idle. I hope this helps. I don't have a silver bullet here, but you just have to rule out one thing at a time. It may also be worth checking the drive train (centrifugal clutch/variator) to make sure they aren't sticking when they get warm, though you can usually feel this, and if you put it on it's stand would definitely be able to see it with the back wheel off the ground.
@@TheAfterWorkGarage thanks I appreciate it and I’m going to try those out!👏🏽
I have a question?
Exaust plb. Restriction
I sincerely hope this is your vehicle and not a clients. You have some knowledge. However your guessing and not actually verifying the accuracy of certain specs can be very catastrophic not to mention costly.
It's my own truck, and I don't pretend to be a mechanic (or have clients). At the time my shop was in KC, and I lived in Dallas, so I had to make it happen when I was there. So far I've been lucky and had no problems after 30k miles, but your point is well taken!
@@TheAfterWorkGarage I apologize for coming off rude or if I offended you. I wasn't trying to be that way. You definitely have some great knowledge and your personality on camera is great. I was worried that without checking the backlash with a dial indicator or checking the in-lbs torque on the preload might be catastrophic. I'm so happy that your vehicle has been trouble free all these miles later. I hope it continues to bring you a solid dependable ride. I unfortunately am in the middle of replacing my bearings on the carrier and the pinion gear. I've just got the carrier back in and I'm ready to check the backlash as well as marking the ring gear to see what my pattern is between that and the pinion. All of this because a tire shop that shall not be named, left out my hub centric rings and didn't verify that my wheel was centered. The excessive vibration threw out my axle bearings and seals then the axle flexed enough to cause my ring gear to hit inside the differential housing. I am so disappointed and stressed out. I really hope I get this right and can have my truck back. 😞 Thank you for taking the time to put together your video.