In Praise of Plinths for DIY Wardrobes [video
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- In this video I discuss why I prefer the simple #plinth for #DIY #wardrobes over adjustable feet, and how I make sure they fit. Enjoy!
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Used/featured in this video:-
Festool TS55 Tracksaw - amzn.to/2pGvzDS (US: amzn.to/2oOgGhw)
Festool T18 drill/driver - amzn.to/2QAHpK1 (US: amzn.to/2RPuOCR)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Mirok square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
Bessey Duo Klamp - amzn.to/2tsSWQs (US:amzn.to/2sVaRBH)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6
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Useful workshop bits & pieces:-
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Bradawl - amzn.to/2qWTbln (US: amzn.to/2pZqVRm)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RTZ
Plastic packers - amzn.to/2vCDN27 (US:amzn.to/2vHk4fZ)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2sTwQJE (US:amzn.to/2sThGo1)
Hultafors Talmeter tape measure - amzn.to/2pHwnbH (US: amzn.to/2oqLQc9)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Braided hose sleeve - amzn.to/2puFkWd (US:amzn.to/2oqbQsi)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2HBxK66 (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
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I watched it when it came out, and liked it. I watch it again now since I’m building a plinth for the first time tomorrow. Thank you Dude.
Ah, you are a plinth among men Peter! I've mentioned the need for these in my 400 year old house before, when the floor falls an inch in twelve inches from the skirting board it's an absolute necessity so my bookcases and bedroom furniture all sit on them.
Hey Peter, not sure if you still get notifications on this video but in case you do, what depth do you build the plinth to? Just standard 600mm? Or do you add on a bit extra to accommodate for the rear panel for example? Many thanks
Hi Matt. I usually made them a bit shallower than the carcass, so that it sets back slightly - unless I'm doing wrap-around skirting or something, in which case it's the same depth.HTH 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter, much appreciated!
Sorry but i didn't got the pros of the plinth vs the adjustable feet
Plinths are much easier to work with especially if you have to move the cabinets around. Put the plinth down. Level with packers, screw in place with L brackets and then you just sit your cabinets on top knowing they will be perfectly level. Adjustable feet can be really awkward especially if you are working to a plinth height of 100mm or less. Front feet might be easy to adjust but getting to the rears on deep cabinets in an alcove is not fun.
@@jakefallon2335 ok got it. I assume this is an option only on wooden floor. If its tile you use feet ?
@@billytsik No, this option works fine for tile or any hard surface. You just need to use a masonry bit or you could use a fast setting grab adhesive. If I am fitting in a carpeted room I will put the plinth down then work out where to cut the carpet and underlay so it will finish flush with the capping over the plinth.
I like this method too. I use ‘integrato G’ feet from Hafele to quickly level the corners of the plinths, with shims in between. I like to scribe and fit the plinth fascia prior to placing the wardrobes, so I can secret-fix it screwed from the rear. The downside of the ladder plinth, which sometimes makes me want to revert to plastic legs, is that sometimes the weight of the wardrobes drops things out of level and then you can’t reach in to adjust it!
It took me so long to figure out that it's better to fit the plinth facia before the carcases 🤦♂️
I know, me too! Blindingly obvious when the penny drops! 🤷♂️
when i do this i screw square blocks on the sides of the frame all over the place so that each piece has its own leg to support it. it seems to work better than just wedges. . i must try those adjustable feet
@@MelbourneAlan I do the same. I wedge it to level it all and then I screw on the blocks and remove the wedges.
Totally agree with plinths! so easy to set floor level in the first place. Im supprised you used real wood, I usually use the MDF or what ever vaneer is in use ( helps stops the off cuts breedingin my shed as well )
As ever clear and simple Peter well done.
Adjustable feet are the bane of my life when fitting kitchens. They're good for adjusting the height, but that's about it. If you need to move the cabinet over even 1mm, you have to lift it to move it because if you just knock it, it'll either move too much, not enough, or the legs will just snap!
Also, setting the whole run of cabinets to the same height with the adjustable legs takes an age and a half, if you need to bring it up, you've got to adjust ALL the legs.
Thinkin of goin down the plinth route when I get around to the kitchen build... I was considering the plastic legs initially... but after seeing several plinth-vids & reading comments from professionals like yerself I think plinths are in my future... particularly as I'm building the base units, upperz & the shaker doors from scratch.. (Millard ep. 001 🤨🍻)
😎👍☘
Peter Fitzpatrick Putting wardrobes on plinths is definitely a good idea as it sorts your levels right from the start,and as we all know there are not many floors that are level,But when it comes to kitchen fitting you have an extra hazard to deal with, WATER. I fitted kitchens for 20years during my working life, (I am well and truly retired now) and one of the best things was when the industry started using adjustable legs.Gone were the wedges to pack up, or the scribing down to the floor, just select your working height and level out and adjust your feet accordingly, couldn't be easier. You would also be thankful using this method if ever the washing machine leaked, or you had a flood, you would normally get away with just replacing the "plinth " trim in front of the legs. I know which method I would choose (kitchen wise). Your call.
What is that exotic material they're made of? Is it the stuff they call wood? 🤪
Tree meat :)
😂👍
I just tried the hafele axilo adjustable feet on my latest build (not yet shared) think I'll go back to plinths like this after all. Was nice to be able to adjust with the long reach tool, but in the end it just gave me more to faff about with where I might have just got it done quicker with long plinth.
I personally feel you’re making the correct choice in going back to using them. Especially when the structure your mounting are quite heavy.
Like the reasoning for plinths vs feet makes sense for the sheer weight these can potentially carry as the customer could put anything they wanted in the wardrobe once out the door.
Thumbs up👍
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I always make mine from birch plywood offcuts-much cheaper,dead flat and no twistor bow.
Also no need for knotting solution.It also takes screws much better than softwood endgrain.
If u make the front and any visible side pieces full height and leave the rest 10mm narrower for shimming to whatever the floor is doing, then there is very little scribing to be done to make the plinth dead level all-round.This saves a lot of time if the plinths aren't going to be covered in fascia/skirting board afterwards.
Always enjoy your vids Peter.
Keep 'em coming!
Where do you buy plinth from? I wanna try this out but can’t find them?
Great video. Do you use shims to level plinth? Do you screw it down once fitted? Will you fit a skirting across the front of the unit?
All will be revealed in the install video - or any previous install video tbh - but yes, yes and yes 👍👍
Please stop apologizing for poor audio or video. We never notice until you point it out. :-)
But I notice it 🤷♂️😆
Yes agree with you about plinths. Once had a bar counter for delivery - L shaped with lengths of 4.5 meters and 5.8 meters. A plinth was absolutely essential to attain a full level structure.
Great tip thanks! So do you scribe the plinth to the floor, or just wedge? Agree the adjustable cabinet feet are a real pain, although perhaps a plinth with adjustable feet attached inside might work?
Thanks! I usually try and avoid scribing the plinth - they're a lot of work - and instead scribe a fascia to fit. 👍
Lucky it doesn't have to be any longer, you'd have to knock out a wall!. 😋
Nice info the, mate. 👍
Adjustable feet are seriously over rated...
Cheers Bill! Ha - if it was nay longer I'd have to move! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop you've been gettin some rather largish jobs lately. Did you ever think when you rented that site that one day you may have to relocate to something larger?
@@SMee67 When I rented this space I was looking to use it as a tiny photographic studio for product photography, so absolutely yes, but for different reasons! And I am trying to pull back from the larger jobs now tbh - getting too old for it. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop oh wow, I didn't realise that you had worked your photography out of there to stat with.
Well this place certainly has a little bit of Peter Millard history... 👍
How very special and cool, got photos of the place as it has evolved?
Might make for a good quick slide show one day, The Evolution Of...
@@SMee67 I took this place on as temporary space after I sold my 'proper' photographic studio, and 20 years later I'm still here 🤷♂️ Actually, I'm not sure I have any photographs of when I first took it on - I'll have to have a dig around and see what I can turn up! 👍
Thanks for that Peter. I'd never thought of doing it this way and it would be very useful when I have to cope with floors that are all over the place, or have floorboards missing. I won't use it all the time though because a lot of my designs have the exposed side panels going down to the floor. I've recently started making all my wardrobes with a removable floor so I can use some short adjustable legs (50p each from HPP) and packing pieces to level everything up. And experience tells me that as soon as I put a run of robes into an old property the weight changes the levels anyway.
We have utilised the height of the plinth in wardrobes by creating wells in the bases which customers have found useful for storing boots.
Do you fill the holes and paint this or just add painted board over the visible parts attached with those button things?
You just add a painted piece on the front that is scribed to the floor, and screw it on from behind.
You add a board or skirting. If fitting it after the cabinets are in I use grab adhesive and/or headless pins as it is usually already painted. If fitting before you can secure it by screwing it from the rear of the plinth.
Whenever we do a wall of wardrobes at my job we make a plinth from a sheet of MDF with adjustable feet underneath. At the jobsite we position it, level it out and put the wardrobes on top and adjust those.
Neat solution, I like it.
Yeo, the Hafeler integrato G are good for that. 👍
Hi Peter. Do you think I could use 25mm thick MDF strips to make the plinth instead? I was looking at price of redwood in my local timber merchant and I worked out it's cheaper to just get a sheet of 25mm mdf and cut it into strips but I didn't know if there is a good reason people use redwood rather than MDF for plinths? Cheers, Rick
Hi Rick. I used redwood as it was easier to screw into, but I’ve used 18mm MDF offcuts plenty of times without any issues. Go for it. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Perfect. the last sheet of 18mm on my cut list only has a small bit on so I can use the rest for base plinth strips. Many thanks.
Thanks Peter. At the far end, left side, the cross member is horizontal, not vertical. What's the reason for that?
He said it was there because it’s easier to get a small screw (tongue tite) in a horizontal timber
@@azza1793 thanks - I missed that
The title of your autobiography?😂
😂😂
Hey thanks for the great video, what do you do to make them level on site if it’s required?
Thanks! I level them up with wedges, then fit small feet made from offcuts inside the plinth, and secure these to blocks screwed to the floor. I show the process in the ikea hack - wall cabinet on the floor video, here 👍 - ruclips.net/video/mRTVt9i8J4E/видео.html
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you Peter, this is very helpful. When fastening the unit to the main wall, how do you not worry about piercing a water pipe or utility? Thanks again
I like the look of this system (Axilo) and the special tool - really cheesy demo vid here - ruclips.net/video/-TfbMA0pWV0/видео.html
My preferred method for base kitchen cabinets installations, toe kick is a separate part. Level It once. I was taught this by an old cabinet maker many years ago.
Agreed plinth is the way to go, lot easier to get it level, and less headaches later.
I love that you show your recording setup :)
As my old maths teacher used to say -0 always show your workings... 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wise man :)
Thanks for the video Peter, useful as usual. I tried the adjustable feet last couple of jobs, they do have their advantages but a good plinth is very stable and strong. Also the adjustable feet are 150mm which is fine for kitchens but not so good for a wardrobe, so I had to cut them all down so there wasn't such a distance between floor and furniture.
Almost identical to how we fit our units, I agree with you the adjustable feet makes things awkward to shuffle about. We usually just use packers to level up or (shims as some call them these days). We do still use adjustable feet on kitchen installs though.
This has long been the preferred MO for me. A little time spent scribing a level platform is always well spent. Sometimes worth considering for kitchens too. Make the plinth and the flooring can be turned up to the top and trimmed before carcasses are installed. It looks smart and is favoured in dental surgeries etc.
Peter can you please make a video on cupboard end panel fitting.it will be very helpful.scribing of end panel against the wall please please please.fan of your work.waiting.thanks again for such a amazing videos
Hi Raj. I covered that on the old TV unit series - P5 here, ruclips.net/video/DmuR9lZaM4g/видео.html 👍
I knew that if I waited long enough then one day my plinth would come...but never mind all that Peter, why is your " avoid the rip-off" no longer available?, sinister forces at work ?.
Haha, thanks Henry! No, nothing sinister - I deleted it as the comments were getting a little ‘unnecessary’ and tbh it had served its purpose. 🤷♂️👍
Hiya Peter. Its been a while since we chatted, sorry, we just moved to a new house. This is a brilliant idea for the total set of six wardrobes I'm building in two of the 3 bedrooms. When joining them, would it not have been better to screw from both sides to get equal bite? My K5 pocket hole jig will have a good workout when I start the job. You really should try it one day, it's a flippin brilliant bit of kit.
Hey Gary. Re joining the plinths, I don’t think it makes any difference how they’re screwed together tbh, as long as you’re getting a solid fixing. I have a couple of Kreg mini jigs, they’re very good - I just don’t use pocket holes much as I have a Domino, and I have a Lamello... 🤷♂️ 👍👍
I make my base with the kitchen cabinet adjustable feet
I love your videos, inspired me to move house so I can get a big shed/workshop. I'm about to try and build my first wardrobe, my wife would like it to have decorative moulding like kitchen cornice round the base of the unit. How would you fit this to a plinth if the room is far from square? A flat plinth cover, I could scribe, but a decorative moulding needs to remain the same profile all along. Thank you
Thanks! On internal corners you just have to scribe the moulding as if it was skirting board; what I’d usually do,is scribe a length to get the internal as tight as I could, then cut it to length to suit the external mitre. If it’s going into an alcove where it’s a flat fit across the front, then you just have to practice on bits of scrap until you get it bang on - then repeat that on the finished piece. 👍
'benchmark'.. finally that word makes a click in my head!
Hi Peter, LOVE your work, thank you! Any chance that you can do a dedicated video on levelling the plinth?
Thanks! I've covered this before in some of the bigger builds - my last install was one, and alcove units another. Not something i could spin out into a complete video though, I dont think! 👍
Hi Peter, I am sorry if anything I wrote in my comment got you into trouble, that was not my intention. The comments I put were entirely my own and nothing to do with any of your comments, I have always disliked thieves and made my thoughts known. I enjoy your videos and usually leave a comment but not normally an angry comment.
Hi John. Totally fine with your comments, but others were getting a little out of hand and none of us involved in the episode really had time for it. 🤷♂️👍
Peter , presumably you use shims / packers to level plinth up , do you then screw in a few blocks of wood to hold plinth up in case shims were to move at all ? Or is that unnecessary? Ta . Paul.
Hi Paul. There’s some more on this when I get to the install - or on any previous install video tbh - but in essence, yes, the plinthbis levelled upmwirh wedges, then secured to the floor with small brackets as necessary. On this instance the plinth was fixed to the back well, so once levelled up it wasn’t really necessary to do anything else. 👍👍
Peter what the hells a plinth ,hope you didnt get any on you ,we just use a base /substructure,getting all "edgeumacated ",on us ,where gonna have to put you up on a pedestal now ...lol
😂😂👍👍
As Always Peter , Great Tip , your a Perfectionist which i love , its great to see even at your Level you still Pre drill everything , I have learnt so much from you thank you for sharing .One question would you use the same screws all the time or does that change depending on the Type of wood ?
Thank you! I use Spax screws 99% of the time, and Spax M-cut for MDF. I'll also use tongue-tite or lost-tite screws because they have a very small head that's easy to 'lose' on a job. 👍
I can see the importance of a plinth. Very helpful video.
I prefer to use plinths however I cut out about 30mm sections on the bottom on all sides leaving about 50mm on each corner so only the corners are in contact with the floor makes is easier to level and if there are raised parts of the floor less chance your have to cut the plinths down only leaving you to scribe the skirting , great videos love watching.
Good idea, thanks! I actually like the floor contact with heavier wardrobes as it spreads the load, but nothing that couldn’t be handles with little scrap wood feet screwed on. 👍👍
Hurrah! I was going to ask you to do a plinths video, you read my mind
Nothing wrong with sound. No need to be sorry. Thanks for sharing wisdom.
Thanks! 👍
You made this whole video for the pun at the end. Don't bother denying it, we know you too well ;)
😂👍
Cut the bottom at 45 deg makes for easier scribing once level
They all have a planted-on fascia that’s scribed to the floor. 👍👍
Very handy Peter.
What happened to the Rip off video. It won't play at my end.
Thanks Peter. I deleted yesterdays video - the comments were getting all a bit unnecessary, and neither the other parties nor myself have the time to argue with people who just want to argue. It had served its purpose within a couple of hours, tbh. 👍
This is how I built my kitchen cabinets but I didn't know there was a name for it or that anyone else did it this way.
Did mine that way too, used waterproof ply just in case. There was NO WAY I was going to use those 'adjustable' legs on our floors ! Once leveled with shims and lightly fixed to prevent movement, the cabinets went in quickly and accurately. It was a 3-part plinth for a u-shaped layout.
Nice little vid my man... just watchin it with a cuppa after carrying 20 sheets of 1/2" plasterboard into the house from me trailer before the rain turns it to mush ... 😤😵 gittin too old for that stuff 🙄
I may even get this place of mine fully refurbed before I fall off me perch.
Full re-wire
Full re-plumb
Full heating install incl. digging pipe trenches
Lowering ALL the ceilings to 8'
Insulation EVERYWHERE !!
Ext. wall vents punched tru 2' stone walls in every room...
Oh yeah... fun times 😂😂
😎👍☘
Sounds like hard work, Peter 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ya know what they say Pete... "what doesn't kill ya , makes ya stronger !! 💪💪
Its a long-term project & as I live alone theres no pressure to get it finished ... that may be a bad thing tho... 🙄😂😂
😎👍☘️
Thank you Peter a great solution and are you feeling ok, as you've used real wood 😂
Cheers Ray. Felt a little lightheaded there for a while, it OK now I’m back with MDF. 👍👍
Hi Peter
Is there a video where you go into levelling up the plinth on site in more detail. Im assuming that Ill need to level across the front, across the back and front to back?
Not specifically, but if you pick pretty much any build where there’s an install I’ll show the general process. Alcove unit P4 I think was one - ruclips.net/video/v7WAw3CC4dQ/видео.html 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks
Thank you Peter. Out of interest what happened to your previous video about stopping rip offs? By the time I had gotten around to watching it, it had disappeared.
Thanks Benedict. I deleted that video -0 the comments were getting all a bit unnecessary, and it had served it's purpose in hi-lighting the issue, tbh.👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fair enough... though I am now curious as to what the issue was....
Email me if you’re really that curious - it’s really not that interesting though. 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop Fair enough. I'll let it pass. People being excessively vexed in comments is a little tedious so I can appreciate why you took the video down.
Hi, what is the best way to level the plinth once in position?
Wedges.
Thanks for sharing another 10 minutes well spent 👍. I notice that Aldi have brought out an airless sprayer for £175.00 I believe, was wondering if you had planned to do a review of it 😜
Kevin Wood yeah if you want to buy it for him to try out 😁
Thanks Kevin. No, no plans for that sprayer - not something I'm likely to use 👍
😂👍
Live it.
Sort of related. Have you got any recommendations for sliding door rail kits for wardrobes?
I've just fitted some Klug gear from Ironmongery direct - similar to the basic hafele kit, worked well 👍
David foulds. Just used some Rothley ares kits from the Screwfix website , easy to use and great for simple MDF sliding doors . Don't seem to be in the catalogue though.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks, I'd been looking at that brand. Not easy to evaluate from pictures.
@@spring899 Thanks, I'll take a look, going past Bangor SF on Friday.
What is a plinth?
😂👍
Will these side tables disappear lol
😂😂 Friday, apparently- but who truly knows 🤷♂️😆👍
Peter Millard I have my fingers crossed for you great videos look forward to seeing the lemello p2 v the mafell dowler video
Thanks! 👍👍
How do you fix the carcasses to the plinth when you're installing them in a way that the fixings are invisible?
I use tongue-tite or screw-tite screws, driven through the base into the plinth. The heads on these screws are tiny, so the holes are easily filled. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks Peter.