general tip ... if using a nail gun, stick some painters tape on first. nail through the tape. fill without removing tape. let dry. remove tape. only tiny areas need to be sanded.
Same for any cuts especially if you have a blade that isn’t for finish cuts. Put painters tape down then draw a line on top of the tape. Cut along the line over the tape when you pull off the tape you will have a cut good enough for any cabinetry projects
My goodness. I really appreciate the time you take going into such detail about what most novices, like me, would like to know or sometimes take for granted. I’m learning more about cabinetry in these short videos than some series that are hours long. Thank you very much!
Really like this chap’s approach for teaching. Great channel. Is anyone else slightly reassured that stuff falls off his shelves too? And he doesn’t edit it out. I’m glad I’m not the only one.
Pocketholes are designed for hardwood and make it such that you don't screw directly into the end grain, you go from a face grain to a face grain. I do agree they're messy and are easiest to use in places that will stay hidden, but its worth noting why they are available.
2 года назад+6
The problem comes when they are done on plywood/MDF/particle/... They don't give a better join but they leave the "scars".
@@SillyOmega Dados are wonderful, but the main reason I used them on my last kitchen reno was because my opa was helping me and insisted they were a better joint. He was right, but with a good glue and screw to clamp it down, I probably could've built it in 1/5th the time. We were using birch ply, which is a good choice for dados vs MDF or OSB where that'd be nonsensical.
Thanks mate! Lesson was straightforward, love how you would show the whole duration and not jumping from one scene to the other. This video is relatable
These videos great. See a lot of people talking about pocket screws but no one breaks it down and shows you alternatives. As someone very new to joinery found this very helpful. Thanks 😊
as someone who's never done anything like this before, I find your videos very informative and digestable. I need to learn how to build this type of cabinets very soon so I appreciate your tutoring!
I'm totally absorbed by your videos of your techniques and you are inspiring me to delve deeper into woodworking. I've just made my son a cabinet for his computer & have just put together a makeshift table. The more I watch, the more ideas you give me! Thank you.
...the only channel that is *enhanced* by its use of music is Scott Brown Carpentry. His use of background/B-Roll/music is exemplary, in my humble opinion.
Yes please Peter! I would really like to see a piece on 18 Gauge nailers as I'm currently trying to decide between compressor and cordless and there doesn't seem to be much content from UK RUclipsrs.
When I bought my pocket hole jig (Kreg) I also bought the plug cutter which allows you to make plugs of the same material to fill the pocket holes. The result is almost invisible if one takes care to match the grain if using textured board.
A very good video, Peter. A lovely antidote to the ones where people seem to spend a whole years income on tools and only ever seem to make plywood cabinets for their own Californian workshops! I'd slightly disagree with you on the downsides of pocket holes though. I make really nice (and pricey!) furniture. Mostly fitted bedrooms. All of it with pre-finished boards that I assemble on site with no further cosmetic re-finishing. Over 99% of it absolutely peppered with pocket hole screws, and none of them visible (unless you look round the back, underneath or anywhere else where no normal person would think of looking!). Using 15mm, 18mm and 25mm boards they're great for fixing at right angles and joining 2 boards butted up to each other, like joining the 2 pieces of the back in a double wardrobe, so you don't have to struggle with a 1 metre wide board. It just needs a bit of time in the planning. But yes, I 100% agree with the basic principle of the series: if you have a way of making a nice clean square cut in 18mm board, and you've got a few basic tools like a drill, a screwdriver and a hammer, and a bit of time, nothing (really) is beyond you. I look back at some of the things I made when I started with an old corded Black & Decker and a B&Q circular saw and still think they look pretty good. And still get customers coming back for more!
Thanks John! Oh, I know many people - yourself included - who've built nice businesses making very nice furniture with extensive use of pocket-hole screws! But I still don't like them much, I'm sorry! Nothing against the mechanics of them - they're very strong and very easy to use because you're working from the face, every time, and you're only cutting one side of the joint. Now, for me next series, plywood shop cabinets and a walnut credenza, all made with pocket-hole screws - and maybe a couple of brads, just while the glue sets... 😆👍
Another informative video Peter, thank you for the great content, your channel is definitely worth the Patreon subscription. Your videos have inspired me to dust off my tools and get back into making again.
I find if you have the nails,screw tips slightly protruding push the board together. It helps to hold it together while you drive home. great videos 😎👍
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! As ever, a very informative tutorial on a subject many newbie (and not so newbie) makers will be interested. Swamped with an endless choice of excellent tools to make joints, both quickly and easily, it is easy to forget the utility of PVA, nails and screws.
Thanks! Before this video I’d never used nails to make a carcass before, and have to be honest, I was amazed how well it held up, just with panel pins. 🤔👍👍
I love your videos. Simple and to the point. I especially like that you are not affraid to share your oppinion on different style of either nailing or using any material (like your pocket hole) comment. I use pocket holes and I agree they leave a nasty mark on the wood. I would like to know how much weight you can put on a small cabinet. It would be great to know since I am always afraid of the putting lots of things in the cabinet just to find out that they will fail. Thanks.
Nail guns. Nail guns. I have a 22g , an 18g , a 16g . All compressed air they’re cheap and super reliable. I use them all when doing assembly work, depending on the project. Toe nail everything it’s really strong and of course plenty of glue.
Ive used pocket hole screws for a lot of things. One project used 100 of them. Planter boxes that were lined then filled with dirt so no need to even fill the holes in. ground contact grade cedar and exterior rust resistant screws and boom, three happy magnolia trees in my backyard. They needed the boxes because the top soil where I live is like 4 inches deep and we needed to quickly and easily add a few feet of soil for the trees to take root in. They have good drainage and access to that super thin soil and hopefully will be able to help break donw that very hard clay soil eventually once those roots get long enough.
Another great video Peter. SImple, however very informative and super useful. It's the really simple stuff that people frequently get wrong and this stops them from achieving great results. Keep the videos coming Peter, they are excellent...
I'm a ex bricklayer took up welding building trikes and motorbikes. Never got on with wood. Sorry Peter pocket hole is my only way. I started a couple of years or so ago back on a learning curve with wood. Love the channel it keeps me sane
@@10MinuteWorkshop I have doweled and glued with a dowel jig but in my case its clamps. I count your clamps and just long for half LOL. at least now I do more than use my chop saw for more than fire wood. I think I have more patience now and take more time
Thank you so very much. Have been struggling with my RV cabinet replacement. Wonderful and informative video. Simply amazing detailed instructions. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Good job! Two ideas come to mind: 1. Using a second set of bench dogs with a spacer to get the corner arrangement steady. Spacer being two wedges with sandpaper glued on. This way they can be easily adjusted to any thickness while checking the corner's angle. Alternatively use a clamp and board as varaible stop. 2. Taping the second horizontal board to the first one in a T-formation. This way you have a plain to put the side board on at exactly 90°. The tape could go around the T-formation all the way like a belt so it does not rely on glueing and is strong.
I think pocket holes are an excellent choice for a beginner who wants to get some stuff built. I actually think the holes look pretty cool as is. My Howdens units have unsightly platic boxes inside plus little shelf supposts but judging by the amount they sell people don't seem to mind too much. What is good about pocket holes is they do square up your work for you, not everyone has a workshop remember!
Thank you for your videos, I like your method of explanation. I just got into DIY because of this quarantine and have been watching a lot of videos lately. Sadly MDF as raw material is not sold in Puerto Rico, but I can apply your teachings to PVC plastic panels, we are not building too often with wood because our weather is excellent for all kind a termites. How you join them (screw, nails, pocket holes) seems to be a personal decision, depending on your desired finish and tools available. For me pocket holes are not a bad option since I will add a layer of formica laminate. And for sure I will suggest your videos to my other pals. Regards, Héctor.
Over 100,000 views and only 5.5k likes, this is criminally under appreciated! Informative content as ever. Agree about the pocket hole screws. I'm new to carpentry so eagerly waiting to see where exactly it is they prevail. I know there's a bit of a "for" and "against" thing around them.
Just a great series Peter!!! I use an 18 gauge Ryobi nailer like the one you use. The only issue is how heavy it is. I also use Grex pneumatic nailers with a small, battery powered air compressor also by Ryobi. Still totally portable, the compressor is quiet, has plenty of power for nailers, and no power cord. The advantage is that an air powered nailer is really light weight for overhead work, such as attaching face frames on high cabinets on wall units. Thanks again, these really are good compilations of your years of work and experience.
Thanks! Good to hear you’re liking it so far. I had no idea Ryobi made a battery powered compressor - I’ll have to take a look at that, thanks! And yes, the 16g is a bit of a lump, keep meaning to get an 18g cordless; I have a corded Maestri nailer /stapler but it maxes out at 25mm, so a bit limiting. 🤷♂️👍👍
I love pocket holes. But they do need a bit of planning to make sure the holes will be hidden. If they’re going to be visible I’d probably go with a different type of fastener that I could easily hide
Im a girl who likes wood building projects I know some things & I’ve tried building some wood projects which were not complete failures Thank you for your easy to follow instructions You are very amiable in your method of teaching because I can tell you have done it a long time & with that you’ve learned patience May you continue to be blessed in all you do & for teaching and encouraging others that they too can be successful I watched the 1st video & I look forward to watching your other videos Have an awesome day Shalom
We forget how limited we were , until quite recently , in the options we had - powertools have been a game changer. My dad nailed things together - or used corrugated fasteners ( what happened to them ? ) Never used glue , and very rarely used a screw fitting. I was of the posidriv generation , which opened your options up a bit - and then the Yankee screwdriver - guaranteed to slip - should have been the tag line. Screwing (ahem ) was seldom used as a diy fixing as I remember - it was all 2 by 1 , Royal hardboard , nails and panel pins , or if you subscribed to Practical Householder , you graduated to reeded hardboard and quilted Fablon. When I married and had to up my game to Central Heating and Kitchens , my game changer was a screwdriver bit in a brace and bit - try attaching radiator brackets and generally screwing with a normal screwdriver - it's forearm bursting. We default too easily to the cordless driver - there are better, more suitable alternatives. Glue , or glue and pin are normally more than adequate for basic home cabinetry. Certainly , the cordless drill/ driver has enabled the average diyer to greater things - there is still a place for basic , and perhaps more elegant fixings. Then we have the Festool generation - a tool for every application.......... I still have ny Dad's pushpin , for inserting panel pins without a hammer , and bless him , when I was sorting out my Mother's estate recently , when removing the burglar alarm boxes from the house , the back repeater ( which was a dummy ) had been nailed to the wall with several thorsman cable clips - he put that up in 1979, had not moved at all, and took some prising off.
Great comment! Thanks! Wow, corrugated fasteners - wavy nails we called them, haven’t thought of those in years! Probably last used them at art school in the later 70s to make canvass stretchers! As for 2x1 batten over-boarded with hardboard, and yes, panel pins - you could be describing my childhood home, or any of my friends or neighbours from back then. Must admit, I’m pretty sure that before I made this video I’ve never nailed a carcass together before, and I was impressed by how well it held up - and it did make me wonder why I’ve been messing about with all this fancy stuff, all this time! 🤷♂️😆👍👍 Great comment, thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts! 🙌
This is an excellent series of videos, with everything clearly explained and there is information here for woodworkers with every level of experience......you would have made an excellent teacher! On the subject of pocket holes, I quite like them for some jobs, but I am always wary of using them with sheet materials, because the screw is aimed directly at the outer corner of the carcase, and you have to be very careful not to blow out the edge....or perhaps I'm just clumsy! I do like to use them in thicker solid wood and have found you can make the scars almost invisible in pine/whitewood by gluing in a piece of 9mm dowel and cutting it off with a flush cut saw (all my workbenches are built that way). Can't wait for instalment no.3 of this series👍
Thanks Davis! Yes, I know what you mean re pocket holes and sheet goods, and I haven't used them often, but so far they've worked well - but then so did the nails! 🤷♂️👍😂
Hi Peter, when I used to make these cabinets I always rebated the sides and then fixed together. If you were using say 18mm I would rebate out 12mm leaving 6mm on the end, this would leave you the opportunity to nail down into the ends for fixing or fine screws if you were careful, this was especially useful if using veneered boards where you did not want to show your fixings on the side. I did chuckle when I saw the estwing come out for panel pins, I thought that was asking for trouble, a little tip I always used was to drag the pin against a piece of candle wax always went in easier. For the record I never had a claw hammer in my cabinet shop it was always my 10 oz or 3 1/2 oz cross pein Warrington hammers. And yes I do use senco nailers and pinners.
Thanks Gary. Yes, that’s the way to do it- just trying to keep it simple for the ‘basics’ series, you know?? And yes, J thought those Estwing hammers were supposed to be decent! 😂😂 Haven’t hit a nail with a hammer for a long long time - could you tell?? 😆 👍👍
@Gary Blake A lot these choices really come down to the cost of the final product as time does mean money. Pocket holes are a simple cheap method of constructions that allows for timely production with good quality. Just some simple planning with pocket holes can allow for a really high standard of production.
Pocket holes come into their own in real wood. They allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. Much stronger. Helps a bit with mdf but not as necessary.
@@isackhernandez3691 They are good for real wood as they allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. But they are also fine for use in MDF.
Personally I always use dowels or biscuits so there is no damage to external faces. Filling nail holes or over screw heads is just a huge amount of extra work and time. Agree about pocket hole screws, I hate those things.
Been watching now for a while some great advice and tips has help me so much and given me reassurance when starting a project has even helped me with my PTSD as it has given me focus thank you Peter
When I use pocket hole screw joinery, I typically only use them where I can hide them. I only use them where they will never be seen, mostly on the tops of cabinets, if there will be some kind of corniced detail, or if the top of the cabinet sits flush against a bulkhead. I sometimes use pocket screws in the back of cabinets or book cases if they’re built in, when the back goes against the wall. They’re also good for attaching solid hardwood face frames, or when multiple cabinets are joined together and the sides with the screws won’t be seen. When I want to avoid fasteners for aesthetics, I prefer using rabbets and dado glue joints, and loose tenons (dominos). I use dominos a bit more sparingly, because pocket hole screws and rabbet and dado joints, are more economical than dominos.
@@wjjpearson They never split the MDF even when used close to the edge,can even be driven without the use of a pilot,and the torx heads rarely cam out, also self countersinking, Try them, think you'll be impressed
Thanks Paul! Yes, we crossed that bridge around 11.30 this morning, but typically I’m head down and grafting on next weeks video so no time to reflect! I believe google has to verify the account and I’ll be notified after that, and then items up to 3 weeks before I get my hands on it. But yes - the process has started. 😆👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Very well earned pal. I'm slowly working my way through replacing my entire kitchen - all via learning with your videos. Hoping to bump into you at Tim's or Makers this year
Dear Peter - nice video again, thanks. Maybe a suggestion for a follow up: I think the choice of material for the cabinet (in your case MDF) does have an influence on which jointing methods are more suitable and which are less. If I understood correctly, the Lamellos f.I. were introduced to overcome the challenges of jointing chipboard (of lesser quality). The quality of the MDF determines some of the options as well. And a 2nd thought is about the transport between the workshop and the client - which you addressed in another video. Thanks, Wino
Thanks! Very true, though I think any of the jointing methods that work well in MDF will work well in other materials - not always the case the other way around though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop A while ago I somehow got some MDF of a (very) poor quality. If I drove a nail in it, it did splice-up easily, vert easily. A cut for a lamello would break out surprisingly easyly and fast as well. It was just falling apart in my hands basically. I did not realise that there was such a quality difference between different types of MDF. I ended up just using dowels (with the Mafell DDF40) and glue, just because of the poor quality of the MDF. To be honest, it really crossed my mind to just trough away that MDF. I did not - I used it for something which was not going to deal with a lot of dynamic forces, only static ones. (A cover for a central heating manifold under some open stairs). Ever since I do pay quite a bit more attention when buying MDF.
Nails are still effective things, one thing ive always remembered from my grandad teaching me a simple method of "dovetailing the nails" makes a much stonger fixing...
![Dowel Jig Basics [video 441]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zTj_hiEVfvw/mqdefault.jpg)
![Dowel Jig Basics [video 441]](/img/tr.png)
![Cabinetry Basics P3 [Video 437]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/iKle2JqhEV8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Stromae, Pomme - “Ma Meilleure Ennemie” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1F3OGIFnW1k/mqdefault.jpg)
general tip ... if using a nail gun, stick some painters tape on first. nail through the tape. fill without removing tape. let dry. remove tape. only tiny areas need to be sanded.
Simple enough to remember, I hope for next time!
Cool, thx.
Thank you master 🙏
What a good idea 👍
Same for any cuts especially if you have a blade that isn’t for finish cuts. Put painters tape down then draw a line on top of the tape. Cut along the line over the tape when you pull off the tape you will have a cut good enough for any cabinetry projects
My goodness. I really appreciate the time you take going into such detail about what most novices, like me, would like to know or sometimes take for granted. I’m learning more about cabinetry in these short videos than some series that are hours long. Thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful! 👍
Really like this chap’s approach for teaching. Great channel.
Is anyone else slightly reassured that stuff falls off his shelves too? And he doesn’t edit it out. I’m glad I’m not the only one.
This series is gold for those of us new to cabinet making. 👍🏻
Thanks, glad you think so! 👍
Brilliant, only video on youtube that actually shows how to assemble an mdf carcass. Greetings from Texas, USA.
Thank you! And very best wishes from London! 👍👍
Pocketholes are designed for hardwood and make it such that you don't screw directly into the end grain, you go from a face grain to a face grain. I do agree they're messy and are easiest to use in places that will stay hidden, but its worth noting why they are available.
The problem comes when they are done on plywood/MDF/particle/... They don't give a better join but they leave the "scars".
Personally my teacher had us make rabbets and dados. Then glue and nail them together.
@@SillyOmega Dados are wonderful, but the main reason I used them on my last kitchen reno was because my opa was helping me and insisted they were a better joint. He was right, but with a good glue and screw to clamp it down, I probably could've built it in 1/5th the time. We were using birch ply, which is a good choice for dados vs MDF or OSB where that'd be nonsensical.
I will be watching this series to learn to make cabinets.
Finally the kind of videos I've been looking for - quick no-nonsense well-informed advice. Thanks!
Thanks! 🙌👍
Knocking on the door of 100k.
A sublime achievement but thoroughly deserved and, to be honest, should’ve happened aeons ago.
Thanks Frank - and yes, getting there! 😆👍👍
Thanks Peter for taking time to make these wood work videos for beginners like myself.
Very very useful information for beginners. And I love your style of explaining all things the way you do. Thank you for your efforts.
Thanks mate! Lesson was straightforward, love how you would show the whole duration and not jumping from one scene to the other. This video is relatable
Get on and Get one made. So straight and to the point. LOVE this!!
👍
Very helpfull for someone that just wants to build some custom things around the house. Much appreciated!
Very much enjoy your videos, well detailed and explained.
Practical, down to earth advise. Your presentations are good and honest. Well done.
Thank you! 👍
Loving the explanations, plain and simple for us novices 🔥
These videos great. See a lot of people talking about pocket screws but no one breaks it down and shows you alternatives. As someone very new to joinery found this very helpful. Thanks 😊
Really like this series. Subscribed.
Thanks, and welcome! 👍
Do yourself a big favourite and go back and watch his old ones. Top notch.
This is awesome Peter! Thank you for uploading these.
Glad you like them, thank you!
as someone who's never done anything like this before, I find your videos very informative and digestable. I need to learn how to build this type of cabinets very soon so I appreciate your tutoring!
I'm totally absorbed by your videos of your techniques and you are inspiring me to delve deeper into woodworking. I've just made my son a cabinet for his computer & have just put together a makeshift table. The more I watch, the more ideas you give me! Thank you.
Thank you! Really pleased to hear it! 👍👍
Wonderful video, thank you very much. I appreciate you going into the very basic aspects of cabinetry and woodworking.
Thank you! 👍
It’s so satisfying manually driving a nail in to join cabinetry!
It is! First time I’ve ever actually nailed a cabinet together was for this video - makes me wonder why I’ve been messing about all these years! 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Got to do what is most satisfying! dont worry about how strong the join is hahah
... and all with a complete absence of muzak. Love it!
Thanks! 👍
Or the flash bang wallop I'm coming at you guys
Yep - nothing makes me hit the ‘stop’ button quicker than guitar shreddding
...the only channel that is *enhanced* by its use of music is Scott Brown Carpentry. His use of background/B-Roll/music is exemplary, in my humble opinion.
Perfect timing with this series, as I am about to start building some cabinetry in my garage. Thanks!
👍👍
me too 😀
Yes please Peter! I would really like to see a piece on 18 Gauge nailers as I'm currently trying to decide between compressor and cordless and there doesn't seem to be much content from UK RUclipsrs.
I am very new to anything DIY and these videos have been very informative. Thank you for doing them and I look forward to the next one
Thanks James! You’re exactly the kind of viewer I had in mind, so I really appreciate the feedback. 👍👍
When I bought my pocket hole jig (Kreg) I also bought the plug cutter which allows you to make plugs of the same material to fill the pocket holes. The result is almost invisible if one takes care to match the grain if using textured board.
A very good video, Peter. A lovely antidote to the ones where people seem to spend a whole years income on tools and only ever seem to make plywood cabinets for their own Californian workshops!
I'd slightly disagree with you on the downsides of pocket holes though. I make really nice (and pricey!) furniture. Mostly fitted bedrooms. All of it with pre-finished boards that I assemble on site with no further cosmetic re-finishing. Over 99% of it absolutely peppered with pocket hole screws, and none of them visible (unless you look round the back, underneath or anywhere else where no normal person would think of looking!). Using 15mm, 18mm and 25mm boards they're great for fixing at right angles and joining 2 boards butted up to each other, like joining the 2 pieces of the back in a double wardrobe, so you don't have to struggle with a 1 metre wide board. It just needs a bit of time in the planning.
But yes, I 100% agree with the basic principle of the series: if you have a way of making a nice clean square cut in 18mm board, and you've got a few basic tools like a drill, a screwdriver and a hammer, and a bit of time, nothing (really) is beyond you. I look back at some of the things I made when I started with an old corded Black & Decker and a B&Q circular saw and still think they look pretty good. And still get customers coming back for more!
Thanks John! Oh, I know many people - yourself included - who've built nice businesses making very nice furniture with extensive use of pocket-hole screws! But I still don't like them much, I'm sorry! Nothing against the mechanics of them - they're very strong and very easy to use because you're working from the face, every time, and you're only cutting one side of the joint. Now, for me next series, plywood shop cabinets and a walnut credenza, all made with pocket-hole screws - and maybe a couple of brads, just while the glue sets... 😆👍
Another informative video Peter, thank you for the great content, your channel is definitely worth the Patreon subscription. Your videos have inspired me to dust off my tools and get back into making again.
Thank you! 👍👍
I find if you have the nails,screw tips slightly protruding push the board together. It helps to hold it together while you drive home. great videos 😎👍
Thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge! As ever, a very informative tutorial on a subject many newbie (and not so newbie) makers will be interested.
Swamped with an endless choice of excellent tools to make joints, both quickly and easily, it is easy to forget the utility of PVA, nails and screws.
Thanks! Before this video I’d never used nails to make a carcass before, and have to be honest, I was amazed how well it held up, just with panel pins. 🤔👍👍
I love your videos. Simple and to the point. I especially like that you are not affraid to share your oppinion on different style of either nailing or using any material (like your pocket hole) comment. I use pocket holes and I agree they leave a nasty mark on the wood. I would like to know how much weight you can put on a small cabinet. It would be great to know since I am always afraid of the putting lots of things in the cabinet just to find out that they will fail. Thanks.
Nail guns. Nail guns. I have a 22g , an 18g , a 16g . All compressed air they’re cheap and super reliable. I use them all when doing assembly work, depending on the project. Toe nail everything it’s really strong and of course plenty of glue.
I don't really think Peter's workshop has enough space for compressed air equipment :)
Ive used pocket hole screws for a lot of things. One project used 100 of them. Planter boxes that were lined then filled with dirt so no need to even fill the holes in. ground contact grade cedar and exterior rust resistant screws and boom, three happy magnolia trees in my backyard.
They needed the boxes because the top soil where I live is like 4 inches deep and we needed to quickly and easily add a few feet of soil for the trees to take root in. They have good drainage and access to that super thin soil and hopefully will be able to help break donw that very hard clay soil eventually once those roots get long enough.
Another great video Peter. SImple, however very informative and super useful. It's the really simple stuff that people frequently get wrong and this stops them from achieving great results. Keep the videos coming Peter, they are excellent...
Thanks Lester! 👍👍
Really helpful all encompassing trip through cabinets. Thanks.
Just built a kitchen cabinet, used pocket screws to assemble the face frame. First time I have used them, Very quick, easy and got great results.
Yep, no matter the damage that they do, or the aesthetics, they allow folks to get stuff built, which is fantastic 👍👍
I'm a ex bricklayer took up welding building trikes and motorbikes. Never got on with wood. Sorry Peter pocket hole is my only way. I started a couple of years or so ago back on a learning curve with wood.
Love the channel it keeps me sane
Thank you! Honestly, pocket holes work very well, provided you can live with, or hide, the scarring. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I have doweled and glued with a dowel jig but in my case its clamps. I count your clamps and just long for half LOL. at least now I do more than use my chop saw for more than fire wood. I think I have more patience now and take more time
Thank you so very much. Have been struggling with my RV cabinet replacement. Wonderful and informative video. Simply amazing detailed instructions. Great job. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you.
You're a treasure on RUclips !
Good job! Two ideas come to mind:
1. Using a second set of bench dogs with a spacer to get the corner arrangement steady. Spacer being two wedges with sandpaper glued on. This way they can be easily adjusted to any thickness while checking the corner's angle. Alternatively use a clamp and board as varaible stop.
2. Taping the second horizontal board to the first one in a T-formation. This way you have a plain to put the side board on at exactly 90°. The tape could go around the T-formation all the way like a belt so it does not rely on glueing and is strong.
I think pocket holes are an excellent choice for a beginner who wants to get some stuff built. I actually think the holes look pretty cool as is. My Howdens units have unsightly platic boxes inside plus little shelf supposts but judging by the amount they sell people don't seem to mind too much. What is good about pocket holes is they do square up your work for you, not everyone has a workshop remember!
Yep, all very true! 👍👍
Thank you for your videos, I like your method of explanation. I just got into DIY because of this quarantine and have been watching a lot of videos lately. Sadly MDF as raw material is not sold in Puerto Rico, but I can apply your teachings to PVC plastic panels, we are not building too often with wood because our weather is excellent for all kind a termites. How you join them (screw, nails, pocket holes) seems to be a personal decision, depending on your desired finish and tools available. For me pocket holes are not a bad option since I will add a layer of formica laminate.
And for sure I will suggest your videos to my other pals.
Regards, Héctor.
Thank you Hector! Best wishes from London! 👍
Finally I got my hands on a Domino, and Peter Millard goes back to nails and screws 😜😜😜😜
Send it to me, problem solved
😂 Timing! 👌👍
He’ll be breaking out his yankee screwdriver next week!
@@alieverett5895 Nothing wrong with a yankee, used since I was 16 and still use them for slotted screws.
Congratulations on your new domino!! 😀😀
Over 100,000 views and only 5.5k likes, this is criminally under appreciated! Informative content as ever. Agree about the pocket hole screws. I'm new to carpentry so eagerly waiting to see where exactly it is they prevail. I know there's a bit of a "for" and "against" thing around them.
Yet another great series. Thanks Peter
Cheers Mick! 👍
Seeing you struggle to put the first corners together squarely was comical. I needed that.
It’s never easy! 😂🤷♂️👍
I'm glad I got into your channel. Really useful and very well explained for beginners. You got a new subscriber from Mexico! Cheers!
Thanks, ans welcome! 👍
Just a great series Peter!!! I use an 18 gauge Ryobi nailer like the one you use. The only issue is how heavy it is. I also use Grex pneumatic nailers with a small, battery powered air compressor also by Ryobi. Still totally portable, the compressor is quiet, has plenty of power for nailers, and no power cord. The advantage is that an air powered nailer is really light weight for overhead work, such as attaching face frames on high cabinets on wall units. Thanks again, these really are good compilations of your years of work and experience.
Thanks! Good to hear you’re liking it so far. I had no idea Ryobi made a battery powered compressor - I’ll have to take a look at that, thanks! And yes, the 16g is a bit of a lump, keep meaning to get an 18g cordless; I have a corded Maestri nailer /stapler but it maxes out at 25mm, so a bit limiting. 🤷♂️👍👍
I love pocket holes. But they do need a bit of planning to make sure the holes will be hidden. If they’re going to be visible I’d probably go with a different type of fastener that I could easily hide
Im a girl who likes wood building projects
I know some things & I’ve tried building some wood projects which were not complete failures
Thank you for your easy to follow instructions
You are very amiable in your method of teaching because I can tell you have done it a long time & with that you’ve learned patience
May you continue to be blessed in all you do & for teaching and encouraging others that they too can be successful
I watched the 1st video & I look forward to watching your other videos
Have an awesome day
Shalom
We forget how limited we were , until quite recently , in the options we had - powertools have been a game changer.
My dad nailed things together - or used corrugated fasteners ( what happened to them ? ) Never used glue , and very rarely used a screw fitting.
I was of the posidriv generation , which opened your options up a bit - and then the Yankee screwdriver - guaranteed to slip - should have been the tag line.
Screwing (ahem ) was seldom used as a diy fixing as I remember - it was all 2 by 1 , Royal hardboard , nails and panel pins , or if you subscribed to Practical Householder , you graduated to reeded hardboard and quilted Fablon.
When I married and had to up my game to Central Heating and Kitchens , my game changer was a screwdriver bit in a brace and bit - try attaching radiator brackets and generally screwing with a normal screwdriver - it's forearm bursting.
We default too easily to the cordless driver - there are better, more suitable alternatives. Glue , or glue and pin are normally more than adequate for basic home cabinetry.
Certainly , the cordless drill/ driver has enabled the average diyer to greater things - there is still a place for basic , and perhaps more elegant fixings.
Then we have the Festool generation - a tool for every application..........
I still have ny Dad's pushpin , for inserting panel pins without a hammer , and bless him , when I was sorting out my Mother's estate recently , when removing the burglar alarm boxes from the house , the back repeater ( which was a dummy ) had been nailed to the wall with several thorsman cable clips - he put that up in 1979, had not moved at all, and took some prising off.
Great comment! Thanks! Wow, corrugated fasteners - wavy nails we called them, haven’t thought of those in years! Probably last used them at art school in the later 70s to make canvass stretchers! As for 2x1 batten over-boarded with hardboard, and yes, panel pins - you could be describing my childhood home, or any of my friends or neighbours from back then. Must admit, I’m pretty sure that before I made this video I’ve never nailed a carcass together before, and I was impressed by how well it held up - and it did make me wonder why I’ve been messing about with all this fancy stuff, all this time! 🤷♂️😆👍👍 Great comment, thanks again for taking the time to share your thoughts! 🙌
This is an excellent series of videos, with everything clearly explained and there is information here for woodworkers with every level of experience......you would have made an excellent teacher!
On the subject of pocket holes, I quite like them for some jobs, but I am always wary of using them with sheet materials, because the screw is aimed directly at the outer corner of the carcase, and you have to be very careful not to blow out the edge....or perhaps I'm just clumsy!
I do like to use them in thicker solid wood and have found you can make the scars almost invisible in pine/whitewood by gluing in a piece of 9mm dowel and cutting it off with a flush cut saw (all my workbenches are built that way).
Can't wait for instalment no.3 of this series👍
Thanks Davis! Yes, I know what you mean re pocket holes and sheet goods, and I haven't used them often, but so far they've worked well - but then so did the nails! 🤷♂️👍😂
Thanks, I always learn something from watching your videos. South Texas
Thanks, glad to hear it! 👍 Greetings from London!
You can buy plastic caps to cover pocket holes. They give a good finished look.
I'm here because I want to build speaker cabinets and bookshelves, and I don't regret it
I think dowels and cakes are pretty. I like the rustic look
Hi Peter, when I used to make these cabinets I always rebated the sides and then fixed together. If you were using say 18mm I would rebate out 12mm leaving 6mm on the end, this would leave you the opportunity to nail down into the ends for fixing or fine screws if you were careful, this was especially useful if using veneered boards where you did not want to show your fixings on the side.
I did chuckle when I saw the estwing come out for panel pins, I thought that was asking for trouble, a little tip I always used was to drag the pin against a piece of candle wax always went in easier. For the record I never had a claw hammer in my cabinet shop it was always my 10 oz or 3 1/2 oz cross pein Warrington hammers. And yes I do use senco nailers and pinners.
Thanks Gary. Yes, that’s the way to do it- just trying to keep it simple for the ‘basics’ series, you know?? And yes, J thought those Estwing hammers were supposed to be decent! 😂😂 Haven’t hit a nail with a hammer for a long long time - could you tell?? 😆 👍👍
@Gary Blake
A lot these choices really come down to the cost of the final product as time does mean money.
Pocket holes are a simple cheap method of constructions that allows for timely production with good quality.
Just some simple planning with pocket holes can allow for a really high standard of production.
Enjoyed that one Peter. Really simple yet hugely useful. Very helpful indeed!
Thanks Martin! 👍👍
never used pocket holes nails and screws, oh an glue 2. thank you for these videos.
Thank you so much for insights. I am learning quite a bit. Again. Thank you.
Pleasure, thanks for taking the time to comment! 🙌👍
Can't wait to jump to pt. 3!
Great vid mate with good explanations
Great series, thanks Peter. 👍
Cheers Brian! 👍👍
Really enjoyed this Peter. Many thanks.
Thanks! 👍👍
i will be watching more of your videos.. this is exactly what i need to learn 👍🏻🙏🏻
Pocket holes come into their own in real wood. They allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. Much stronger. Helps a bit with mdf but not as necessary.
Pocket holes are better used for real wood is what I'm understanding
@@isackhernandez3691 They are good for real wood as they allow you to screw into face grain rather than end grain. But they are also fine for use in MDF.
Great video!
ANOTHER EXCELLENT VIDEO. GOD BLESS.
Personally I always use dowels or biscuits so there is no damage to external faces. Filling nail holes or over screw heads is just a huge amount of extra work and time. Agree about pocket hole screws, I hate those things.
I like your style Sir!
Greetings from the other side of the sea channel.
Thanks and welcome! 👍
Been watching now for a while some great advice and tips has help me so much and given me reassurance when starting a project has even helped me with my PTSD as it has given me focus thank you Peter
Thanks Marcus! 👍👍
When I use pocket hole screw joinery, I typically only use them where I can hide them. I only use them where they will never be seen, mostly on the tops of cabinets, if there will be some kind of corniced detail, or if the top of the cabinet sits flush against a bulkhead. I sometimes use pocket screws in the back of cabinets or book cases if they’re built in, when the back goes against the wall. They’re also good for attaching solid hardwood face frames, or when multiple cabinets are joined together and the sides with the screws won’t be seen. When I want to avoid fasteners for aesthetics, I prefer using rabbets and dado glue joints, and loose tenons (dominos). I use dominos a bit more sparingly, because pocket hole screws and rabbet and dado joints, are more economical than dominos.
Hi Peter, another great vid thanks, I love those spax MDF screws, they certainly do exactly what it says on the tin! Stay safe, thanks for posting
Thanks Paul! and they certainly do! 👍
What actual noticeable difference do you see compared to cheap wood screw?
@@wjjpearson They never split the MDF even when used close to the edge,can even be driven without the use of a pilot,and the torx heads rarely cam out, also self countersinking, Try them, think you'll be impressed
As always Peter very informative and helpful
Thanks Steve! 👍
Really enjoying the content, thanks for your time.
Thank you! 👍
Absolute gold! Thank you very much
Great series so far. I hope to use some of the techniques soon.
Thanks! 👍
I think I saw a video in which is shown that if the pocket holes are placed correctly they resist the shear stress more than the screws from the side.
Great video, Thank you!
I know it's an expensive investment but I bought a Domino last year and it makes cabinetry so much cleaner and easier.
Yes, absolutely. Great machine and so versatile. 👍👍
I've just noticed your subs have beaten the 100k - congratulations Peter. I guess you will be getting a nice Silver award though the post.
Thanks Paul! Yes, we crossed that bridge around 11.30 this morning, but typically I’m head down and grafting on next weeks video so no time to reflect! I believe google has to verify the account and I’ll be notified after that, and then items up to 3 weeks before I get my hands on it. But yes - the process has started. 😆👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Very well earned pal. I'm slowly working my way through replacing my entire kitchen - all via learning with your videos. Hoping to bump into you at Tim's or Makers this year
What I learned? I need way more drill drivers 😁
Great video as always! Thanks!
Haha, thanks! They’re like clamps - you can never have too many! 😂👍
Great tips thanks for sharing.
Thanks! 👍
Brilliant video Peter , I'm looking forward to the next one.
Thanks! 👍
great video I am learning a lot
Thanks a lot for your videos! Greetings from Chile
Thank you! Best wishes from London! 👍👍
Thank you
your videos are gold!!
A very interesting series. Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks! 👍
wolfcraft do lovely triangle corner clamps which I use to hold pieces to be able to glue then screw and nail.
I love those mdf screws from spax
I’d say you nailed that video! 👍
I’ll get my coat...
😂 😂 👍
But he screwed the wood (MDF)
You are a legend mate! Thanks for this
Dear Peter - nice video again, thanks. Maybe a suggestion for a follow up: I think the choice of material for the cabinet (in your case MDF) does have an influence on which jointing methods are more suitable and which are less. If I understood correctly, the Lamellos f.I. were introduced to overcome the challenges of jointing chipboard (of lesser quality). The quality of the MDF determines some of the options as well. And a 2nd thought is about the transport between the workshop and the client - which you addressed in another video.
Thanks, Wino
Thanks! Very true, though I think any of the jointing methods that work well in MDF will work well in other materials - not always the case the other way around though! 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop A while ago I somehow got some MDF of a (very) poor quality. If I drove a nail in it, it did splice-up easily, vert easily. A cut for a lamello would break out surprisingly easyly and fast as well. It was just falling apart in my hands basically. I did not realise that there was such a quality difference between different types of MDF. I ended up just using dowels (with the Mafell DDF40) and glue, just because of the poor quality of the MDF. To be honest, it really crossed my mind to just trough away that MDF. I did not - I used it for something which was not going to deal with a lot of dynamic forces, only static ones. (A cover for a central heating manifold under some open stairs). Ever since I do pay quite a bit more attention when buying MDF.
Nails are still effective things, one thing ive always remembered from my grandad teaching me a simple method of "dovetailing the nails" makes a much stonger fixing...
Yes, ‘skew’ nailing they call it sometimes. And have to say, I was impressed with how well the nailed carcass held together! 👍
I presume dove tailing the nails mean hammering the nails in at an angle?
@@DeafMaker yes just like a dive tail each opposing angle really grips well
@@grahamalexander7230 everyday is a school day, cheers
@@DeafMaker Yep, we are e-learning for ever.
2 vids inside your channel..already suscribed..keep it up bud!
Thanks - and welcome! 👍