Thank you, your video is great! I subscribed! I have a question: I have a 2000 Ford Expedition and get 3 flashes at the end of the cruise control diagnostics TSB 06-8-5. I have changed the Brake Deactivation Switch on the Master Brake Cylinder and the supplied harness (there was no Ford interim fix harness with two inline fuses, just the new harness). The 3 flashes indicate the Brake Deactivation Switch is OPEN or the Circuit is Damaged. Since I have changed the switch again, what else could it be? I have also tried a jumper on the Brake Deactivation connector, which tricks the circuit into thinking the switch is installed and closed (brake-off) and it still gives me the same reading 3 flashes. Any ideas? The Ford dealer says they changed the cruise control deactivation switch and retested and it the CC was still inop. They then used the work shop manuals and found the Speed Control Servo inop. I swapped that out and I still get the 3 flashes at the end of the diagnostics.
Hi and thanks for reaching out. It could possibly be the wiring to and from the deactivation switch. Might be a broken wire or connector. I need to pull out my electrical manual to check this further. Try tracing the wiring back from the deactivation switch to ensure it is not damaged.
@@DrivingIntelligence Also, I tested this today and found: I get no power going to the Brake Deactivation switch wires but I do have power at the fuse (if I am checking the correct one?) So, no power between the fuse inside driver side fuse panel and the brake pressure switch. Is there something else like a relay that controls power to that wire, like a Brake Pedal Switch? My three brake lights work fine and my brake fluid is topped off.
Finally got to the diagram. I plan to do a video on this in the near future. Good question. Both the Brake Pressure Switch (at the master cylinder) and the Brake Pedal Position Switch (on the brake pedal) are normally closed contacts. The Brake Pressure Switch provides disengagement during normal driving. During a panic stop or when the brake pedal is pushed at more that 125 psi, the brake pedal switch disengages. The Brake Pedal Switch should have continuity between the Red / Light Green (RD/LG) Wire & the Black / Pink (BK/PK) Wire. When you pressure the switch with high pressure, you will get continuity between the RD/LG Wire and the WH/YE (white / yellow) wire. Let me know if this helps.
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you for your reply is very helpful. Since the Brake Pressure Switch is normally closed, I should have power to both wires off that switch. I have no power to either wire. So, that would leave me to believe the wire coming from the fuse is broken OR there is another switch/relay controlling power to that wire? Which fuse controls the wire to the Brake Pressure Switch wire? On my 2000 Expedition I have tested Fuses #5 thru 15 and they are all good. Anything that has the word "Brake" in it or that which controls the "Speed Control Module". Testing the Speed Control Module connector probably wont do me any good as the wiring to the Brake Pressure Switch is not working, unless the brake pressure switch gets it's power from the Speed Control Module?
You're welcome, and make sure you've had the cruise control recall applied to your vehicle if it fell within the recall guidelines. Otherwise, a potential fire hazard.
You should get 5 more flashes after the single flash indicating the speed control servo is ok, then as you press each additional button, the cruise control light should flash with each button. If they do not flash, this indicates your cruise control buttons are bad and need to be replaced. Links for this product are in the description with the full diagnostic instruction.
My question is, why didnt you remove the old harnesses that had the recall fuse on it? I've seen other videos where they cut it out after installing the new parts. And thank you for diagnostic. I was able to verify the steering wheel buttons work.
@@DrivingIntelligence, that was my thinking too. I haven't prefrom the work yet but was just more curious then anything. I appreciate your detail video so much! Thanks for the quick response.
My abs light is on. Would that not allow the cruise to work? I did the switch diagnostic and got the light to flash for each button. I also changed the cruise control brake switch
@@derekwelch5430 Since I can't look at your vehicle, all I can recommend is making sure your connection at the master cylinder switch is in place and that all fuses are ok. Beyond that, you might have a broken wire. Another view had a similar issue. Check all the comments in this video and you'll find how another viewer had to trace wiring that was broken and ended up running another wire to fix the problem.
My f250 cruise doesn’t work did diagnostic test at the end had one flash. Performed test on my f150 the difference between the two was f150 made noise f250 didn’t. Is it the servo that is the problem?
Thanks for the comment. It appears to be your servo. The servo is activated at the end of the self test and if you don't hear any noise, either the wiring is broken or the servo is bad.
I would be very concerned, to be honest. Something might be shorting out behind the horn / airbag pad. You'll need to check that out right away. Do you have a dash light? Checked DTC's?
Sorry for the confusion but the hesitation on my cruise control I found the problem the cable that goes to the bracket the cable housing is broke and that’s where I’m getting the slack app so that’s what’s giving me hesitation I went online everywhere trying to find a new cable for a 2002 Ford Ford 5.4 not to be found other than eBay so I have it on order now thanks anyway
What up guys, my vehicle does the end flash after the set flash yet the actuator does not engage the throttle, it has been intermittent up till now, now it is a hard failure. Any suggestions?
I need to go through the info I sent once again, but I think that means your buttons are out of order and need to be replaced. Did you watch the entire video? Links to new buttons are in the description.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the response. I did watch the entire video and I will be purchasing the buttons do you by chance have a video replacing those?
@johnperry5960 I don’t have a video showing replacement of an F150, but this Explorer Sport Trac is very similar: How To Replace Cruise Control Buttons & Steering Wheel Removal: ‘00-‘06 Ford Explorer Sport Trac ruclips.net/video/60zVqNe41RQ/видео.html
Excellent video, thank you! Is the word "NOT" a typo in your above description? Quote "If the lamp does ""not"" flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:" My situation: the lamp "does" flash with the last button, and additional (2) flashes occur. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hello Larry, thanks for finding my channel and asking the question. That is not a typo. That is the Ford Diagnostic description. BPP refers to "Brake Pedal Position" and could indicate your brake pedal switch that disengages your cruise control is causing problems. Given your description and the diagnostic, I would check your BPP to ensure it is working properly.
I have no lights showing up on the dash after holding the off button while turning on the ignition, and then pressing the on, res, and coast buttons in sequence. Thoughts?
Thanks for your question. Just to confirm, you did not get any lights when you initiated the self diagnostic mode? Or just when you press the buttons? If no lights at all, do you have a check engine light and if so, what DTC's are you receiving? If you did get an initial light, then your switches are likely bad.
@@DrivingIntelligence no lights at all. Hold down off button while turning on ignition. The pressed other three buttons in quick sequence. Service engine light was on previously but mechanic shop replaced plugs and coils so off now. Trade school had dash all apart two months ago, maybe they left something disconnected?
Bob, I wish I can help you more. It is hard to diagnose through RUclips. Make sure you are turning the key only to the "RUN" position (engine off) while holding the "off" button and wait for the dash light to tell you to go to the next steps. Do not press any other buttons until you see the flash on the instrument panel indicating the system is in self diagnose mode. Each press of the button should light the dash light, and once you press the last button, you should hear the servo activate. Beyond this, additional diagnostic steps will be needed that involve more detailed mechanical / electrical skills. Let me know!
@@DrivingIntelligence yes, started the process again. Held down the off button on the steering wheel, turned ignition to on position, without starting, held the cruise off button for twenty seconds. If it was working properly I expect the cruise light to come on in the dash, didn’t happen. I have checked all fuses. I have a wiring diagram so I will find and follow and check as best I can. One thing that may lead to the problem, the cruise light on the dash is not coming on at any time, not even when the key is turned to on position without starting engine. Maybe that will lead to the problem. I appreciate your help and interest so far, and especially your videos, they are great help to us backyard mechanics. Cheers.
@@bobmacmillan7094 My cruise light does not come on when my key is turned on (engine off). Make sure you are following the directions exactly as it makes a huge difference. Also foot off the brake while doing this! I don't know if you are doing the sequence in order. Parking brake set and in park. Key on, engine off. Now this is the cycling part that will get you into the diagnostics, push and HOLD the cruise control OFF button on your steering wheel and turn the key OFF, then back ON (ENGINE OFF). While still holding the cruise control OFF button, look at your dash, you should see the CRUISE light flash once, release the CC OFF and quickly push the other cruise control buttons in the correct order (or it wont work) and wait until the last button is pressed. See above for the results of your diagnostic test....0-1-2-3-4- flashes?
Tried the test on the steering wheel switches and the only Time it came on was when I initially held the off button and turn the key over. It won’t flash for any of the other buttons, does that mean that I need new switches?
That is a strong indication your switch is bad. After pressing the last button, did anything else occur? Did you hear the cruise control servo activate? Any other lights?
@@DrivingIntelligence okay so I received the controls in the mail and went to install them today. Got the old ones out, but could not fit the new ones in. I ended up ordering the ones you had listed, but as i was looking at the pictures on amazon I realized that those switches are for a 4 spoke steering wheel design, not a 2 spoke like yours and mine. I remember reading that in late 2000 ford updates the wheel studs (i had to replace 2 of mine on my front wheels) so it stands to reason that they must have updates the design too
Hi TL, your message is confusing. Is this your question?: "So my cruise control works but I’m getting a hesitation every time I turn the cruise off and even when I push the resume. what do you think?" If that is your question, it sounds like it make be your switches. They may have problems with connection and need to be replaced. I can't help with much more unless I know more details.
Thank you! This information was very helpful and is the first time I’ve seen anyone list what each of the diagnostic flash codes mean. But, I do have a question that perhaps you could help me with. My 2002 F150 SuperCrew does the same exact thing. Push cruise ON and SET only to get a very quick flask before immediately going back off each time. When I run the diagnostic test as you describe here, I get a single flash with the push of each subsequent button (ie; On, Resume, Coast, & Set/Accel) and with no subsequent flashes thereafter. So, if I understand correctly, that is indicative of the servo operating correctly as well as the control buttons in the steering wheel itself, correct? So....that being done...I went on the advice of RUclips suggestions as well as my local AutoZone guy and replaced the pressure switch on the master cylinder but to no avail. No difference....still get a quick flash when attempting to set the cruise at any speed between 35-70mph. Local parts manager said those only thing left that could be causing this is the stop light switch in the brake pedal. So......$25 bucks later I’ve installed a new stop light switch but with that installed the cruise light doesn’t even flash at all when attempting to set the cruise. Additionally, when I run the initial diagnostic test with the switches on the steering wheel, I get no flash with the “Set/Acce” button, followed by the two-flash error code. (BPP bake pedal position code, etc). Put my original stop light switch back in and it at least flashes when I attempt to set the cruise again as well as passing the diagnostic test with no additional flashes at the end. Any idea where I might go from here? I’m grateful for Amy leads you might throw my way. Thank you! M.L.
One thing that you did not mention, when you do the initial diagnostic test and push each button, after the last flash, did you hear the activation of the the cruise control servo.? You can clearly hear it briefly indicating the servo is working properly. The flashing of the lights does not mean the servo is working properly, it only means the switches on your steering wheel are working properly.
I'm just a little confused with my diagnostic. My original switches on the steering wheel wouldn't give me any flashes whatsoever after entering diagnostic mode. I put new ones in today and now I only get one flash after I push the "ON" button while in diagnostic mode. I didn't see anything that gave errors for only one flash and I've checked the switch connected to the master cylinder and it's fine so Im kinda stuck.
Thanks for reaching out. I know how frustrating this can be. I hate to ask, but my first question is, are you sure you followed the test exactly as outlined in the description? If you did, then as per the procedure, the switches are supposed to be faulty given you did not get a signal. When you pushed the last button, did you hear the Cruise Control Servo activate under the hood? You might have an issue with broken wiring behind the horn pad, or a damaged clock spring, but before you go through all that, see if you can return your new cruise control buttons for a new set and try again. It's odd you had nothing with your original switches, now only a flash with the "off" and "on" switches. Let me know if you go that route and your results.
One other possibility based on your description, make sure you don't have your foot on the brake while performing the test, and don't have your foot on the clutch if you have a manual transmission.
@@DrivingIntelligence I followed everything you replied and I got to thinking about the clock spring and forgot that my truck has been in an accident where the air bag deployed so I'm thinking my clock spring is bad. My horn also doesn't work either with no apparent problems so I'm going to get a new clock spring and see if that changes anything.
@@DrivingIntelligence changed the clock spring and fixed cruise control. Now, my clock spring clicks for no reason and I wanna smash my head into a wall 😭
Hey man, I gotta say that this is a great video and helped a lot, But I do have a few questions since I'm new to the whole Crusie Control thing for my First Gen Ford Expedition. When I push the On Button, is the cruise light on the dash supposed to light up first? or it will only light up when I select a certain speed for it?
thanks very much for the compliment! I'm not quite sure I understand your question. Are you referring to normal operation or during the test. During normal operation, the light will be on when you engage cruise control until and will remain on until you disengage cruise control either by depressing the brake or touching the off switch. When testing, the light will flash with each press of the buttons during the test and also at the beginning and end of the test as described in the description of this video. Does that help?
@@DrivingIntelligence I mean in normal operations, sorry if I sound confusing, again I'm new to the whole cruise control thing. Because when I hit the On button while I'm driving, nothing pops up on the dash to insure me that the cruise control is working or On, but when I press the set acceleration button, the cruise light comes on. Is that supposed to happen? Or is there something wrong? Again I'm just having a hard time understanding.
@@DetectivePhatWeedington ah, ok, I think I understand a little better. When you hit the "ON" button, it activates the system, but without a light. The light is turned on when the cruise is engaged after hitting the "Set/Resume" button. The light will stay on until you hit the brake or the "OFF" button.
@@DrivingIntelligence ooooh ok, that makes sense now, I just wish it told me it was on instead of leaving me in the dark, but if it's working, that's all that matters. Thanks a lot :D
Thank you, your video is great! I subscribed! I have a question: I have a 2000 Ford Expedition and get 3 flashes at the end of the cruise control diagnostics TSB 06-8-5. I have changed the Brake Deactivation Switch on the Master Brake Cylinder and the supplied harness (there was no Ford interim fix harness with two inline fuses, just the new harness). The 3 flashes indicate the Brake Deactivation Switch is OPEN or the Circuit is Damaged. Since I have changed the switch again, what else could it be? I have also tried a jumper on the Brake Deactivation connector, which tricks the circuit into thinking the switch is installed and closed (brake-off) and it still gives me the same reading 3 flashes. Any ideas? The Ford dealer says they changed the cruise control deactivation switch and retested and it the CC was still inop. They then used the work shop manuals and found the Speed Control Servo inop. I swapped that out and I still get the 3 flashes at the end of the diagnostics.
Hi and thanks for reaching out. It could possibly be the wiring to and from the deactivation switch. Might be a broken wire or connector. I need to pull out my electrical manual to check this further. Try tracing the wiring back from the deactivation switch to ensure it is not damaged.
@@DrivingIntelligence Also, I tested this today and found: I get no power going to the Brake Deactivation switch wires but I do have power at the fuse (if I am checking the correct one?)
So, no power between the fuse inside driver side fuse panel and the brake pressure switch. Is there something else like a relay that controls power to that wire, like a Brake Pedal Switch? My three brake lights work fine and my brake fluid is topped off.
Haven’t had a chance to look at the diagrams, but definitely could be the brake switch. I’ll try to check out the diagram tomorrow.
Finally got to the diagram. I plan to do a video on this in the near future. Good question. Both the Brake Pressure Switch (at the master cylinder) and the Brake Pedal Position Switch (on the brake pedal) are normally closed contacts. The Brake Pressure Switch provides disengagement during normal driving. During a panic stop or when the brake pedal is pushed at more that 125 psi, the brake pedal switch disengages. The Brake Pedal Switch should have continuity between the Red / Light Green (RD/LG) Wire & the Black / Pink (BK/PK) Wire. When you pressure the switch with high pressure, you will get continuity between the RD/LG Wire and the WH/YE (white / yellow) wire. Let me know if this helps.
@@DrivingIntelligence Thank you for your reply is very helpful. Since the Brake Pressure Switch is normally closed, I should have power to both wires off that switch. I have no power to either wire. So, that would leave me to believe the wire coming from the fuse is broken OR there is another switch/relay controlling power to that wire?
Which fuse controls the wire to the Brake Pressure Switch wire? On my 2000 Expedition I have tested Fuses #5 thru 15 and they are all good. Anything that has the word "Brake" in it or that which controls the "Speed Control Module". Testing the Speed Control Module connector probably wont do me any good as the wiring to the Brake Pressure Switch is not working, unless the brake pressure switch gets it's power from the Speed Control Module?
I ended up spraying contact cleaner on my pressure switch and it worked. Thanks for the video bro!
You're welcome, and make sure you've had the cruise control recall applied to your vehicle if it fell within the recall guidelines. Otherwise, a potential fire hazard.
I'm gonna try these steps out. Thanks for the video.
Very welcome
This test work for my 2003 5.4 expedition
Glad it helped!
Thanks
very welcome, hope you resolved your issue
Thanks buddy, very helpful. Especially the diagnostic test
Glad it helped! Please subscribe and let me know if you have any questions about these trucks.
Did you have to bleed the master cylinder when you replace the disengagement switch my disengagement switch has brake fluid leaking out of it
I don’t bleed mine, but definitely would be a good step.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
very welcome!
What if after I hold off and turn the key on I get the one flash. Then none when pushing the buttons
You should get 5 more flashes after the single flash indicating the speed control servo is ok, then as you press each additional button, the cruise control light should flash with each button. If they do not flash, this indicates your cruise control buttons are bad and need to be replaced. Links for this product are in the description with the full diagnostic instruction.
My question is, why didnt you remove the old harnesses that had the recall fuse on it? I've seen other videos where they cut it out after installing the new parts. And thank you for diagnostic. I was able to verify the steering wheel buttons work.
Interesting question. My point of view, why remove the extra level of protection?
@@DrivingIntelligence, that was my thinking too. I haven't prefrom the work yet but was just more curious then anything. I appreciate your detail video so much! Thanks for the quick response.
You’re very welcome. Good luck
My abs light is on. Would that not allow the cruise to work? I did the switch diagnostic and got the light to flash for each button. I also changed the cruise control brake switch
ABS is separate from cruise and should have no impact. Could you hear your servo activate when you did the test?
@@DrivingIntelligence yes I heard it
@@derekwelch5430 Since I can't look at your vehicle, all I can recommend is making sure your connection at the master cylinder switch is in place and that all fuses are ok. Beyond that, you might have a broken wire. Another view had a similar issue. Check all the comments in this video and you'll find how another viewer had to trace wiring that was broken and ended up running another wire to fix the problem.
Very informative!👍
Glad to assist!
My f250 cruise doesn’t work did diagnostic test at the end had one flash. Performed test on my f150 the difference between the two was f150 made noise f250 didn’t. Is it the servo that is the problem?
Thanks for the comment. It appears to be your servo. The servo is activated at the end of the self test and if you don't hear any noise, either the wiring is broken or the servo is bad.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks you
What is happening if the horn beeps when I push the cruise button? It would appear I have to take the switches out and check for a short.
I would be very concerned, to be honest. Something might be shorting out behind the horn / airbag pad. You'll need to check that out right away. Do you have a dash light? Checked DTC's?
@@DrivingIntelligence Thanks for the reply. I already figured out the problem, and you're right. Replacing the clock spring.
Good stuff... thanks for sharing. Important topic.
So I replaced the brake pressure switch and I did your steering wheel thing and I heard something hum under the hood what else could be the issue?
did the diagnostic test show proper lights on the dash? what exactly is your problem?
Sorry for the confusion but the hesitation on my cruise control I found the problem the cable that goes to the bracket the cable housing is broke and that’s where I’m getting the slack app so that’s what’s giving me hesitation I went online everywhere trying to find a new cable for a 2002 Ford Ford 5.4 not to be found other than eBay so I have it on order now thanks anyway
Excellent! Glad you found it and shared your results. Good luck with the install.
What up guys, my vehicle does the end flash after the set flash yet the actuator does not engage the throttle, it has been intermittent up till now, now it is a hard failure. Any suggestions?
Sounds like your actuator failed. You might be able to get a good one at the junk yard or on eBay.
What if you get no lights at all on the dash but you hear the servo
I need to go through the info I sent once again, but I think that means your buttons are out of order and need to be replaced. Did you watch the entire video? Links to new buttons are in the description.
@@DrivingIntelligence thanks for the response. I did watch the entire video and I will be purchasing the buttons do you by chance have a video replacing those?
@johnperry5960 I don’t have a video showing replacement of an F150, but this Explorer Sport Trac is very similar:
How To Replace Cruise Control Buttons & Steering Wheel Removal: ‘00-‘06 Ford Explorer Sport Trac
ruclips.net/video/60zVqNe41RQ/видео.html
And thank you
very welcome!
Excellent video, thank you!
Is the word "NOT" a typo in your above description? Quote "If the lamp does ""not"" flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:"
My situation: the lamp "does" flash with the last button, and additional (2) flashes occur. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Hello Larry, thanks for finding my channel and asking the question. That is not a typo. That is the Ford Diagnostic description. BPP refers to "Brake Pedal Position" and could indicate your brake pedal switch that disengages your cruise control is causing problems. Given your description and the diagnostic, I would check your BPP to ensure it is working properly.
& please subscribe! ;)
I have no lights showing up on the dash after holding the off button while turning on the ignition, and then pressing the on, res, and coast buttons in sequence. Thoughts?
Thanks for your question. Just to confirm, you did not get any lights when you initiated the self diagnostic mode? Or just when you press the buttons? If no lights at all, do you have a check engine light and if so, what DTC's are you receiving? If you did get an initial light, then your switches are likely bad.
@@DrivingIntelligence no lights at all. Hold down off button while turning on ignition. The pressed other three buttons in quick sequence. Service engine light was on previously but
mechanic shop replaced plugs and coils so off now. Trade school had dash all apart two months ago, maybe they left something disconnected?
Bob, I wish I can help you more. It is hard to diagnose through RUclips. Make sure you are turning the key only to the "RUN" position (engine off) while holding the "off" button and wait for the dash light to tell you to go to the next steps. Do not press any other buttons until you see the flash on the instrument panel indicating the system is in self diagnose mode. Each press of the button should light the dash light, and once you press the last button, you should hear the servo activate. Beyond this, additional diagnostic steps will be needed that involve more detailed mechanical / electrical skills. Let me know!
@@DrivingIntelligence yes, started the process again. Held down the off button on the steering wheel, turned ignition to on position, without starting, held the cruise off button for twenty seconds. If it was working properly I expect the cruise light to come on in the dash, didn’t happen. I have checked all fuses. I have a wiring diagram so I will find and follow and check as best I can. One thing that may lead to the problem, the cruise light on the dash is not coming on at any time, not even when the key is turned to on position without starting engine. Maybe that will lead to the problem.
I appreciate your help and interest so far, and especially your videos, they are great help to us backyard mechanics. Cheers.
@@bobmacmillan7094 My cruise light does not come on when my key is turned on (engine off). Make sure you are following the directions exactly as it makes a huge difference. Also foot off the brake while doing this! I don't know if you are doing the sequence in order. Parking brake set and in park. Key on, engine off. Now this is the cycling part that will get you into the diagnostics, push and HOLD the cruise control OFF button on your steering wheel and turn the key OFF, then back ON (ENGINE OFF). While still holding the cruise control OFF button, look at your dash, you should see the CRUISE light flash once, release the CC OFF and quickly push the other cruise control buttons in the correct order (or it wont work) and wait until the last button is pressed. See above for the results of your diagnostic test....0-1-2-3-4- flashes?
Tried the test on the steering wheel switches and the only Time it came on was when I initially held the off button and turn the key over. It won’t flash for any of the other buttons, does that mean that I need new switches?
That is a strong indication your switch is bad. After pressing the last button, did anything else occur? Did you hear the cruise control servo activate? Any other lights?
I did not unfortunately. And the cruise light only flashed when i held the off button. It didnt flash for any other button
@@fpaltenhoff86 did you try changing the buttons? That is what your diagnostics leans towards.
@@DrivingIntelligence ill probably end up doing that first. Thank you sir, ill keep you posted on the progress
@@DrivingIntelligence okay so I received the controls in the mail and went to install them today. Got the old ones out, but could not fit the new ones in. I ended up ordering the ones you had listed, but as i was looking at the pictures on amazon I realized that those switches are for a 4 spoke steering wheel design, not a 2 spoke like yours and mine. I remember reading that in late 2000 ford updates the wheel studs (i had to replace 2 of mine on my front wheels) so it stands to reason that they must have updates the design too
So my cruise control works be I’m getting a hesitant every time I try the cruise of and even when I push the resume what do you think
Hi TL, your message is confusing. Is this your question?: "So my cruise control works but I’m getting a hesitation every time I turn the cruise off and even when I push the resume. what do you think?" If that is your question, it sounds like it make be your switches. They may have problems with connection and need to be replaced. I can't help with much more unless I know more details.
Thank you! This information was very helpful and is the first time I’ve seen anyone list what each of the diagnostic flash codes mean. But, I do have a question that perhaps you could help me with. My 2002 F150 SuperCrew does the same exact thing. Push cruise ON and SET only to get a very quick flask before immediately going back off each time. When I run the diagnostic test as you describe here, I get a single flash with the push of each subsequent button (ie; On, Resume, Coast, & Set/Accel) and with no subsequent flashes thereafter. So, if I understand correctly, that is indicative of the servo operating correctly as well as the control buttons in the steering wheel itself, correct? So....that being done...I went on the advice of RUclips suggestions as well as my local AutoZone guy and replaced the pressure switch on the master cylinder but to no avail. No difference....still get a quick flash when attempting to set the cruise at any speed between 35-70mph. Local parts manager said those only thing left that could be causing this is the stop light switch in the brake pedal. So......$25 bucks later I’ve installed a new stop light switch but with that installed the cruise light doesn’t even flash at all when attempting to set the cruise. Additionally, when I run the initial diagnostic test with the switches on the steering wheel, I get no flash with the “Set/Acce” button, followed by the two-flash error code. (BPP bake pedal position code, etc). Put my original stop light switch back in and it at least flashes when I attempt to set the cruise again as well as passing the diagnostic test with no additional flashes at the end. Any idea where I might go from here? I’m grateful for Amy leads you might throw my way. Thank you! M.L.
One thing that you did not mention, when you do the initial diagnostic test and push each button, after the last flash, did you hear the activation of the the cruise control servo.? You can clearly hear it briefly indicating the servo is working properly. The flashing of the lights does not mean the servo is working properly, it only means the switches on your steering wheel are working properly.
I'm just a little confused with my diagnostic. My original switches on the steering wheel wouldn't give me any flashes whatsoever after entering diagnostic mode. I put new ones in today and now I only get one flash after I push the "ON" button while in diagnostic mode. I didn't see anything that gave errors for only one flash and I've checked the switch connected to the master cylinder and it's fine so Im kinda stuck.
If I hold down the on button while in diagnostic mode it will flash initially, and then once again a little later but idk what that means really
Thanks for reaching out. I know how frustrating this can be. I hate to ask, but my first question is, are you sure you followed the test exactly as outlined in the description? If you did, then as per the procedure, the switches are supposed to be faulty given you did not get a signal. When you pushed the last button, did you hear the Cruise Control Servo activate under the hood? You might have an issue with broken wiring behind the horn pad, or a damaged clock spring, but before you go through all that, see if you can return your new cruise control buttons for a new set and try again. It's odd you had nothing with your original switches, now only a flash with the "off" and "on" switches. Let me know if you go that route and your results.
One other possibility based on your description, make sure you don't have your foot on the brake while performing the test, and don't have your foot on the clutch if you have a manual transmission.
@@DrivingIntelligence I followed everything you replied and I got to thinking about the clock spring and forgot that my truck has been in an accident where the air bag deployed so I'm thinking my clock spring is bad. My horn also doesn't work either with no apparent problems so I'm going to get a new clock spring and see if that changes anything.
@@DrivingIntelligence changed the clock spring and fixed cruise control. Now, my clock spring clicks for no reason and I wanna smash my head into a wall 😭
Hey man, I gotta say that this is a great video and helped a lot, But I do have a few questions since I'm new to the whole Crusie Control thing for my First Gen Ford Expedition. When I push the On Button, is the cruise light on the dash supposed to light up first? or it will only light up when I select a certain speed for it?
thanks very much for the compliment! I'm not quite sure I understand your question. Are you referring to normal operation or during the test. During normal operation, the light will be on when you engage cruise control until and will remain on until you disengage cruise control either by depressing the brake or touching the off switch. When testing, the light will flash with each press of the buttons during the test and also at the beginning and end of the test as described in the description of this video. Does that help?
@@DrivingIntelligence I mean in normal operations, sorry if I sound confusing, again I'm new to the whole cruise control thing. Because when I hit the On button while I'm driving, nothing pops up on the dash to insure me that the cruise control is working or On, but when I press the set acceleration button, the cruise light comes on. Is that supposed to happen? Or is there something wrong? Again I'm just having a hard time understanding.
@@DetectivePhatWeedington ah, ok, I think I understand a little better. When you hit the "ON" button, it activates the system, but without a light. The light is turned on when the cruise is engaged after hitting the "Set/Resume" button. The light will stay on until you hit the brake or the "OFF" button.
@@DrivingIntelligence ooooh ok, that makes sense now, I just wish it told me it was on instead of leaving me in the dark, but if it's working, that's all that matters. Thanks a lot :D
Very welcome
I don't think you have the multimeter even connected to the terminals. It looks like is only holding the plastic.
It was definitely connected