Well done video. Love that you go to the wiring diagram then back to the engine compartment to check each connection. I didn't understand the system well enough to troubleshoot my F250 cruise control - now I do. Thanks!
One thing not covered, but your vehicle didn’t have it I assume, is the clutch switch. But because of the diagram you shared I was able to trace my power issue back to the clutch switch.
This is an excellent coverage of CC functions & parts including the wiring diagram usage & how to for the interactive parts that may contribute to CC failure
this has been so helpful. i made it to the switch stage and it doesn't read a middle voltage, when I press the on button it reads BAT voltage, and the off reads a super small voltage. but unpressed it reads zero
Great and clear video. Thank you. Replaced the sensor on the brake master cylinder. Ford recall wiring harness was also damaged and unusable. Now I have cruise control on my 2000 F250. I could find no dash light or reference to a cruise control light in the owners manual about cruise control. does a 2000 Ford F250 have a dash light indicating the cruise control?
From my understanding there should be a cruise light. Interesting that this vehicle's cruise light didn't work either. The light was in the cluster but it didn't turn on with the cruise 🤷
My haynes diagram didnt show that harness thanks for this video. Mine was one of those 2 amp fuses. I found put one fuse is before the pressure switch and the other is after the switch.
Great walk through. I’m going to try this on my F350 tomorrow and see if I can fix it! Do you have another video for that master brake cylinder switch replacement?
Replacing the switch itself is pretty simple. Unplug it at the sensor and just use a deep socket to unbolt it. The new sensor should already come with thread sealer on it. Thread it in snug it up you should be good to go.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I can’t even find my cruise control module in my F350 engine bay. Do you know if it’s located in the same spot as the one you have in your video for the 250
This is an awesome video. Where did you get the wiring diagram from? I have the excursion with v10 2001 and it is the brake switch like yours that was the problem. It actually leaked into the plug and caught fire and tripped the fuse. I cut the switch off so it didn’t short out and replaced the fuse so now I need to replace it or make a long term solution so it doesn’t set the whole thing on fire. Bucket for me i was walking to it when I saw it blow a bunch of smoke and was able to check it.
Excellent. Thanks. Is there also a fuse box that controls this? Under the dash? Under the hood? Mine went bad after I hooked up a faulty trailer wiring. Some lights went out. Replaced a light fuse but couldn’t find the cc fuses.
The harness that’s on connecting to the master cylinder is there because the break sensor on it would leak then ground and it would heat an light the truck on fire
This video is very informative. Thank you for sharing. I have no power going from my brake pressure switch at the master cylinder to the servo. I run a temporary bypass wire over to the servo and tested my cc. It still is not working. All other tests shows that everything else is working as it should. Would this mean that the servo is bad? Is there a way to test the servo and see if it is in working order?
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I did replace it last time I was attempting to fix it, and it didn't help. Is it common to get a bad one right out of the box from the part store?
@valley mobile automotive this is a great video, very informational. I am going to use it in hopes to diagnose a non working cc and p0500/blinking OD i am getting. What area of the US are you located in?
I have a 2000 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel automatic transmission. It has no servo to check. I Did find the deactivation switch on the m/c bad and replaced it. (IMHO the extra harness that FORD installed with the 2 fuses was just for the original switch-the new switch is completely different and I don't believe its needed anymore so I didn't re-use it.) Any idea what else I can check on mine? My clockspring appears good as my horn still works and I have no airbag or ABS lights on.
Because I've a 2005 Ranger/Mazda with aftermarket CPP/BPP switches I grounded output wire 4. Works great. That may help if you have Cruise Control problems with A minimal safety risk.
Do you have a video for a 99 superduty the one for the 01 is great mine only has two wires at the module speedometer always worked brake switch at pedal and at master cylinder are both new as well as steering wheel buttons clock spring replaced with a used one still no cruise brake light switch went badd cruise hasn't worked since
Thank you, your video is great! I subscribed! I have a question: I have a 2000 Ford Expedition and get 3 flashes at the end of the cruise control diagnostics TSB 06-8-5. I have changed the Brake Deactivation Switch on the Master Brake Cylinder and the supplied harness (there was no Ford interim fix harness with two inline fuses, just the new harness). The 3 flashes indicate the Brake Deactivation Switch is OPEN or the Circuit is Damaged. Since I have changed the switch again, what else could it be? I have also tried a jumper on the Brake Deactivation connector, which tricks the circuit into thinking the switch is installed and closed (brake-off) and it still gives me the same reading 3 flashes. Any ideas? The Ford dealer says they changed the cruise control deactivation switch and retested and it the CC was still inop. They then used the work shop manuals and found the Speed Control Servo inop. I swapped that out and I still get the 3 flashes at the end of the diagnostics.
New subscriber here! My CC is dead, however when I hold the On button and push in the Coast button it activates the horn! Any idea what the malfunction could be? I'm going to follow your instructions and hope I find the problem.
That harness at the pressure switch with the fuses is to address a TSB where brake fluid leaking into the connector can short and cause a fire. That's why they come packaged with the new motorcraft pressure switches.
Great video! However You did make one error, You used a volt meter to check for a grond from the brake pedal switch. You need an ohm meter to check for that ground. Saying that, I'm not sure what effect not having the ground would have, but I suspect it would keep the cruise from engageing.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive - this is still one of the BEST videos on this, thank you! That being said, I get all the voltages, etc. across the board. Except on Pin 5, I get 7V with nothing pressed and 0V when 'off' is pressed. When I press 'on' I get 8.3V - cruise doesn't work, nor does the horn. I just got a 2nd set of buttons thinking it was a button issue, apparently it is not. Clock spring has been replaced with an OEM clock spring 4 months ago. No idea if both set of buttons are good. Any thoughts or direction? Any idea where to get a wiring diagram? 2000 Ford Excursion V10. Thanks again...
That jumper harness is a recall. The cruise brake switch on the master cylinder leaks brake fluid in to the switch and can cause a fire. The recall is, to add the jumper harness with fuses, so the fuses blow before it causes a fire. The correct way to fix this recall, is to change the pressure switch with a updated one, but Ford won’t do that. If you have one of these trucks, do not take it in for the recall, because your cruise wont work 6 months after the recall. This jumper harness is total garbage. If you want to repair it correctly, do it yourself. All you need is a 9/16 and a 7/8 wrench. The updated switch from Ford is part number 1L1Z9F924AA. You’ll have to do this yourself, because Ford will just add a junk harness adapter to it and not fix the real issue.
Check to see if your brake lights are on all the time. It sounds like maybe your brake light switch is faulty or somehow misadjusted. If it thinks you are applying the brakes it won't activate the cruise.
Also, I tested this today and found: I get no power going to the Brake Deactivation switch wires. I used a circuit tester light in the plug connector going to the Speed Control Module and I get power on Pin 7 (Blu/Pink which is power) but no power in Pin 9 (Blk/Ylw the Brake Pressure Switch). I do have power to Pin 4 (Brake Pedal Position Switch) I tested Fuse #5 (15A) for the Speed Control Module etc and Fuse #15 (5A) Stop Lamp, Speed Control etc and they do have power on the driver side interior fuse panel. Anyway, I can't figure out why I don't have power to the Brake Deactivation Switch connection or Speed Control Module Pin 9? (I do get power to Pin 7). Maybe the wiring diagram is different for the F250 (Year?) and my 2000 Expedition? If you can help, that would be great! Thanks!
It looks like the wiring diagram is the same. Check fuse #13 this should have power at all times. If you have power at the fuse check for power at the switch light green with red wire. If no power then you have an open between the fuse box and the switch. If you have power then plug it in to the switch and check for power coming out of the switch on the black with yellow wire. If you have power out of the switch but you're not getting power on pin 9 of the servo module then you have a brake in the wire between the switch and the servo. A bypass test to make sure the servo is working is to supply battery power to the back of the servo connector on pin 9 with it plugged in. You should have cruise control at that point if the module is working. Let me know if you have anymore questions 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I have no power in either wire going to the Brake Pressure Switch. I checked the continuity of the Brake Pressure Switch and it is closed as I have a tone between the two terminals with my foot off the brake. I assume the wire coming off the fuse (based on your wiring diagram in the video) is not continuous and has a break somewhere or is fused or has a relay inline. I checked for the Ford recall wiring and I do not have that temp fix or any inline fuses. The only thing I can think of is to find a break in the wire by doing a continuity test of that wire or running a new wire from the back side of Fuse #13(?) to the Brake Pressure Switch? Anything else you can suggest? Thanks!
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Yes I get power to both sides of the fuse. If I was not, the fuse would be blown, right? I also used a continuity test and a light probe to test each fuse.
Good job of explaining the whole system, keep it up for us DIY guys
@@briandahl5013 Thanks! Glad this video was helpful 🙂
Well done video. Love that you go to the wiring diagram then back to the engine compartment to check each connection. I didn't understand the system well enough to troubleshoot my F250 cruise control - now I do. Thanks!
Hey Rick thanks! Glad this video was helpful 👍
An awesome video and one of the best I have seen, so thank you!
Brother that is the most informative video on cruise control that I've seen, I just wish it applied to my 7.3 Powerstroke Thank You!
One thing not covered, but your vehicle didn’t have it I assume, is the clutch switch. But because of the diagram you shared I was able to trace my power issue back to the clutch switch.
This is an excellent coverage of CC functions & parts including the wiring diagram usage & how to for the interactive parts that may contribute to CC failure
Thanks for the thorough diagnosis explanation!…everyone just talks about the pressure switch like they’re a ginus lol
Great video and education. Good teacher...
this has been so helpful. i made it to the switch stage and it doesn't read a middle voltage, when I press the on button it reads BAT voltage, and the off reads a super small voltage. but unpressed it reads zero
I really like the way you explain things.
Great and clear video. Thank you. Replaced the sensor on the brake master cylinder. Ford recall wiring harness was also damaged and unusable. Now I have cruise control on my 2000 F250. I could find no dash light or reference to a cruise control light in the owners manual about cruise control. does a 2000 Ford F250 have a dash light indicating the cruise control?
From my understanding there should be a cruise light. Interesting that this vehicle's cruise light didn't work either. The light was in the cluster but it didn't turn on with the cruise 🤷
I replaced my switch on the master cylinder and it didn't fix mine. Glad I found this so I can try and diagnose my problem.
My haynes diagram didnt show that harness thanks for this video. Mine was one of those 2 amp fuses. I found put one fuse is before the pressure switch and the other is after the switch.
Great walk through. I’m going to try this on my F350 tomorrow and see if I can fix it! Do you have another video for that master brake cylinder switch replacement?
Replacing the switch itself is pretty simple. Unplug it at the sensor and just use a deep socket to unbolt it. The new sensor should already come with thread sealer on it. Thread it in snug it up you should be good to go.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I can’t even find my cruise control module in my F350 engine bay. Do you know if it’s located in the same spot as the one you have in your video for the 250
, thank you for de video, and I recommend buy extra, is broken often on ford excursion Heater control valve
This is an awesome video. Where did you get the wiring diagram from? I have the excursion with v10 2001 and it is the brake switch like yours that was the problem. It actually leaked into the plug and caught fire and tripped the fuse. I cut the switch off so it didn’t short out and replaced the fuse so now I need to replace it or make a long term solution so it doesn’t set the whole thing on fire. Bucket for me i was walking to it when I saw it blow a bunch of smoke and was able to check it.
OUTSTANDING. Thank you
Brother you saved me so much time!
Awesome! Glad this was helpful 👊
Great Video - How are you probing the "Controller" connector when it's plugged in?
Great explanation of circuit pathways; will check my rig.
Hey thanks 👍
Do you have the part number for the Brake Pressure Switch that was leaking? Great instructions and super clarity.
1L1Z9F924AA
Excellent. Thanks. Is there also a fuse box that controls this? Under the dash? Under the hood? Mine went bad after I hooked up a faulty trailer wiring. Some lights went out. Replaced a light fuse but couldn’t find the cc fuses.
The harness that’s on connecting to the master cylinder is there because the break sensor on it would leak then ground and it would heat an light the truck on fire
Where do you get one of these switches and harness, I can't seem to locate one anywhere for my 96 E350?
This video is very informative. Thank you for sharing.
I have no power going from my brake pressure switch at the master cylinder to the servo. I run a temporary bypass wire over to the servo and tested my cc. It still is not working. All other tests shows that everything else is working as it should. Would this mean that the servo is bad? Is there a way to test the servo and see if it is in working order?
@@bronco78 Because you know the brake switch is faulty I would go ahead and replace it and see what happens.
@ValleyMobileAutomotive I did replace it last time I was attempting to fix it, and it didn't help. Is it common to get a bad one right out of the box from the part store?
@@bronco78 Not common but possible. Do you have power going into the switch?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive yes I do
@@bronco78 are you able to jumper the pressure switch connector and get power to pin 9 on the servo? I show that at time index 8:55
Very helpful thank you
@valley mobile automotive
this is a great video, very informational. I am going to use it in hopes to diagnose a non working cc and p0500/blinking OD i am getting. What area of the US are you located in?
I have a 2000 7.3 Power Stroke Diesel automatic transmission. It has no servo to check. I Did find the deactivation switch on the m/c bad and replaced it. (IMHO the extra harness that FORD installed with the 2 fuses was just for the original switch-the new switch is completely different and I don't believe its needed anymore so I didn't re-use it.) Any idea what else I can check on mine? My clockspring appears good as my horn still works and I have no airbag or ABS lights on.
Do you have anything on a 2004 exposition cruise control?
If nothing else, this was entertaining.
Because I've a 2005 Ranger/Mazda with aftermarket CPP/BPP switches I grounded output wire 4. Works great. That may help if you have Cruise Control problems with A minimal safety risk.
Where did you buy the the new pressure switch and connector?
From the local parts store. They had a Motorcraft sensor available the next day that came with the harness adapter.
Do you have a video for a 99 superduty the one for the 01 is great mine only has two wires at the module speedometer always worked brake switch at pedal and at master cylinder are both new as well as steering wheel buttons clock spring replaced with a used one still no cruise brake light switch went badd cruise hasn't worked since
Thank you, your video is great! I subscribed! I have a question: I have a 2000 Ford Expedition and get 3 flashes at the end of the cruise control diagnostics TSB 06-8-5. I have changed the Brake Deactivation Switch on the Master Brake Cylinder and the supplied harness (there was no Ford interim fix harness with two inline fuses, just the new harness). The 3 flashes indicate the Brake Deactivation Switch is OPEN or the Circuit is Damaged. Since I have changed the switch again, what else could it be? I have also tried a jumper on the Brake Deactivation connector, which tricks the circuit into thinking the switch is installed and closed (brake-off) and it still gives me the same reading 3 flashes. Any ideas? The Ford dealer says they changed the cruise control deactivation switch and retested and it the CC was still inop. They then used the work shop manuals and found the Speed Control Servo inop. I swapped that out and I still get the 3 flashes at the end of the diagnostics.
New subscriber here! My CC is dead, however when I hold the On button and push in the Coast button it activates the horn! Any idea what the malfunction could be? I'm going to follow your instructions and hope I find the problem.
Clock spring short
That harness at the pressure switch with the fuses is to address a TSB where brake fluid leaking into the connector can short and cause a fire. That's why they come packaged with the new motorcraft pressure switches.
Great video! However You did make one error, You used a volt meter to check for a grond from the brake pedal switch. You need an ohm meter to check for that ground. Saying that, I'm not sure what effect not having the ground would have, but I suspect it would keep the cruise from engageing.
Thanks... It would be GREAT to be able to look a bit closer to this diagram. Could you link it?
Sorry, unfortunately I don't have the ability to share the file.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive - this is still one of the BEST videos on this, thank you! That being said, I get all the voltages, etc. across the board. Except on Pin 5, I get 7V with nothing pressed and 0V when 'off' is pressed. When I press 'on' I get 8.3V - cruise doesn't work, nor does the horn. I just got a 2nd set of buttons thinking it was a button issue, apparently it is not. Clock spring has been replaced with an OEM clock spring 4 months ago. No idea if both set of buttons are good. Any thoughts or direction? Any idea where to get a wiring diagram? 2000 Ford Excursion V10. Thanks again...
That jumper harness is a recall. The cruise brake switch on the master cylinder leaks brake fluid in to the switch and can cause a fire. The recall is, to add the jumper harness with fuses, so the fuses blow before it causes a fire. The correct way to fix this recall, is to change the pressure switch with a updated one, but Ford won’t do that. If you have one of these trucks, do not take it in for the recall, because your cruise wont work 6 months after the recall. This jumper harness is total garbage. If you want to repair it correctly, do it yourself. All you need is a 9/16 and a 7/8 wrench. The updated switch from Ford is part number 1L1Z9F924AA. You’ll have to do this yourself, because Ford will just add a junk harness adapter to it and not fix the real issue.
I have the same truck pretty much but mine only works if I put my foot underneath the brake pedal and pull up the brake.
Any suggestions?
Check to see if your brake lights are on all the time. It sounds like maybe your brake light switch is faulty or somehow misadjusted. If it thinks you are applying the brakes it won't activate the cruise.
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive i was thinking that . All lights are off and working when applying the pedal. But how do you adjust the pedal & or switch
@@84mustanglover there may not be an official adjustment method. Check the video at 14:30 and see what's happening on your brake pedal circuit.
Also, I tested this today and found: I get no power going to the Brake Deactivation switch wires. I used a circuit tester light in the plug connector going to the Speed Control Module and I get power on Pin 7 (Blu/Pink which is power) but no power in Pin 9 (Blk/Ylw the Brake Pressure Switch). I do have power to Pin 4 (Brake Pedal Position Switch) I tested Fuse #5 (15A) for the Speed Control Module etc and Fuse #15 (5A) Stop Lamp, Speed Control etc and they do have power on the driver side interior fuse panel. Anyway, I can't figure out why I don't have power to the Brake Deactivation Switch connection or Speed Control Module Pin 9? (I do get power to Pin 7). Maybe the wiring diagram is different for the F250 (Year?) and my 2000 Expedition? If you can help, that would be great! Thanks!
I'll look this up and get back to you 👍
It looks like the wiring diagram is the same. Check fuse #13 this should have power at all times. If you have power at the fuse check for power at the switch light green with red wire. If no power then you have an open between the fuse box and the switch. If you have power then plug it in to the switch and check for power coming out of the switch on the black with yellow wire. If you have power out of the switch but you're not getting power on pin 9 of the servo module then you have a brake in the wire between the switch and the servo.
A bypass test to make sure the servo is working is to supply battery power to the back of the servo connector on pin 9 with it plugged in. You should have cruise control at that point if the module is working. Let me know if you have anymore questions 👍
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive I have no power in either wire going to the Brake Pressure Switch. I checked the continuity of the Brake Pressure Switch and it is closed as I have a tone between the two terminals with my foot off the brake.
I assume the wire coming off the fuse (based on your wiring diagram in the video) is not continuous and has a break somewhere or is fused or has a relay inline. I checked for the Ford recall wiring and I do not have that temp fix or any inline fuses. The only thing I can think of is to find a break in the wire by doing a continuity test of that wire or running a new wire from the back side of Fuse #13(?) to the Brake Pressure Switch? Anything else you can suggest? Thanks!
@@TOM3684 Are you getting power on both sides of fuse 13?
@@ValleyMobileAutomotive Yes I get power to both sides of the fuse. If I was not, the fuse would be blown, right? I also used a continuity test and a light probe to test each fuse.