Budget RC FULL rebuild, tricks and tips... PROLONG the inevitable!
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Some of the cheapest budget RC cars are seriously worth the cost vs what you are actually receiving.
BUT
Most if not all RC cars need some sort of mod, upgrade or personalisation to get the most out of them and I'm not just talking about how fast they are!😅
In this video I will show you how I go about setting up most of my budget RC cars for longevity and damage prevention, from adding shims and oil to the diffs to sizing, swapping and installing shock.
All cars are different so remember to always measure and match accordingly.
All parts available here👇
nl.aliexpress....
JJRC: • JJRC
SuChiYu RC cars: • SuChiYu RC cars
Some of my other RCs you may want to check out here👇
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Mojave 4s BLX: • Mojave 4s BLX
HPI Vorza S 6s: • HPI Vorza S 6s
Traxxas Maxx 4s: • Traxxas Maxx 4s
RC Boats: • RC Boats
WLToys speedruns!: • WLToys speedruns!
All of my DIY carbon, aluminium or polycarbonate parts are cut with a jigsaw and drilled with a hand drill.
Most of my materials like Carbon Fibre, Aluminium, polycarbonate and hardware like screws, bolts and nuts are purchased from Ebay Australia but most of what I use is easily found just by Google searching the material or hardware you require.
Music made on the GroovePad phone app.
All editing done on my phone using the Kinemaster phone app.
Email
saulaldridge@yahoo.com
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Little beauty ! Very informative. Thanks
Thank you very much!👍
Good video. Good information.
Thanks Tim!
Hopefully it helps some people enjoy their cars for longer😁
Great video mate thanks for doing this as you know I hoped you started to do some more videos like this so thanks you did a great job of it.
As you say mate you always enjoy yourself no matter what you are driving and that always comes across in the video that you are having fun that’s great mate.
Hope to see more in the future I know that they are probably more frustrating and time consuming for you to do but thanks for persisting with it.
Never give up man keep smashing it! 👍👊😁
Man thank you so much!
And you are very welcome, I think others were waiting for me to do more of this type of video.
Yes my enjoyment and enthusiasm for RC is 100% real, for years now no matter what I'm messing about with I'm always having a blast😅
Yeah making videos on a phone app is exceptionally hard and time consuming but the way I see it, I can't contribute to society (can't work in the general work force) so I may as well keep making videos.
Too late to quite now.
@@rccrazy Haha yeah mate your not quitting now we need your videos for our viewing pleasure 😆😆😂
Do you think you could edit videos on a pc using the same program you use on your phone if you had a pc?
Well that's it mate, as long as people enjoy my videos I'll keep making them😅
And I'm not sure if Kinemaster is available on pc but if it is I could probably edit using a pc.
Don't think it would help that much though as my main issue is my OCD, just always something I'm not happy with, average 3-4 days just editing😬
But lately I haven't been able to get my videos down to less than 10mins which isn't ideal for youtube videos.
The joys of living with a broken brain🥴🤣
@@rccrazy Fair enough mate no point investing in a pc if it won't be anymore efficient for you to edit 👍
Cheers legend 🤜
Very informative. Thanks
Thanks Geoff!
I think I cover most of the important stuff😅
I have the Q130 SCT. Such a fun little 1/14 truck. First thing I did was upgrade the friction shocks to oil filled shocks for $20. Transformed the handling. Need to add oil for the diffs next. Great advise to shim the diffs too. Hadn't thought of that
I don't have the Q130 but same platform so I would imagine it would be awesome aswell😃
Yes I'm happy spending like $50aud on a good set of shocks for these as you still end up with a cheaper car and in my opinion a somewhat better car than most other 1/16s and alot of cars infact that are already setup👌
And yes for a few dollars a bunch of shims is well worth getting, tighter mesh definitely slows wear and sometimes prevent damage but can ultimately make a diff last much longer than if the gears had too much play between them.
Just keep in mind you can over do it(add too many) hench why they come in such thin options, I used 2x 3mm in the rear and 1x 3mm in the front, yours may be slightly different but technically should be the same👍
Did you have any issues with the screws in the steering links not being long enough and backing out? My Q130 came from the factory with the front wheels fairly aggressively toed out (non adjustable) I imagine this would be the main factor in losing the screws in the steering links. I ended up using longer screws and locktite. All good now. I also wound on a fair bit of preload on the rear shocks as the q130 loves to wheelie what with the 2 spare tyres fixed to the rear body. Flip side to this is it makes the q130 a great stunt truck on jumps. Rotates well in the air. You should pick one up and review one with the upgrades
No I had no screws backing out anywhere, sounds like you got it sorted though.
The toe out on the front wheels helps massively with stability I found, I even started setting up my speed cars the same, I would think 134mph says it works pretty good😅
I can't really afford to get one of the q130 considering it's the same car just a different body, because I'm on low income I can't afford to get every version of a model to review.
I try and get cars that other will like as well as myself but it is hard choosing what to check out.
Sorry mate, I wish I could review them all🥺
@rccrazy No worries. Maybe Alixpress or Banggood will send you out a freebie to review and mod. I've seen a few other RUclipsr review the q130 saying it's great but the friction shocks let it down. If only they added some oil shocks and took it for a bash! Anyway love the channel. Keep up the great work!
I have reached out to so many companies like Banggood and Aliexpress as well as some very popular brand without any luck sadly.
Maybe one day I'll get a offer🤞
Yes I think all cars should come with oil shocks these days even the budget ones.
And I really appreciate the support mate, thank you!
Another great vid 👌 👏 👍
Thanks heaps Zac!👍
Got a few budget 1/10s to check out so hopefully more build/preparation style video coming soon😁
@@rccrazy he'll yea I'm keen
Excellent video mate. Ye I really love the Q117s. Not dismantling the whole thing yet like you are though 😅 I have 4 brushless truggies but no buggies yet. They are really tough though ey. Running them on little Lipo 2s, but scared to put 3s in with the cheap 35amp speed controllers they come with.
Thanks mate!
Yeah these things are such a bargain, I bought a bunch of truggies when they were on sale for like $90aud, can't even get a good esc and motor for that these days🤣
And yes I used to recommend or give the go ahead to run 3s on the stock esc but lately a few people have had them fail on 3s, it's definitely more of a "do at your own risk" sort of test if you were to try.
Eu ando com meu rc Q130 pro em 3s quase sempre com o esc original de 35A, nunca tive problemas até agr😅...bom vídeo, amigo!💥
@Alexandrinocn thanks mate😁
Yours may have just run out of life over time, it happens.
Hope you get it going soon🤞
If you already got it going again then it's time to bash🤘🤪
I like that u answer peoples questions and help out . Hopefully u can answer mines . I just wanted to know what 2s battery do u recommend. I was looking at the 2s lipo by zeee is 50c ok or 80c to wake it up a bit ? And also what oils do u recomend for lubrication
Thanks mate🙏
But I feel I have a obligation to try and answer questions and comments as I do forget to mention stuff on my videos all the time😅
So yes higher C normal suggest the battery is more capable of speed and punch compared to a lower C rating.
C rating has always been controversial though, C rating is almost always over exaggerated by companies.
And oils in this car, I run 30k diff oil in the rear diff and 50k front.
Shocks, try 45-50w in the rear and 30w in the front, if that feels too soft and springy go up by 20w in both front and rear.
So 70w rear 50w front, almost as thick as I run in this car for big jumps.
Aewsome content. I watch a ton of rc vids and your channel is the best. Informational and interesting. Still new to the RC world, and completely addicted. I've taken info you've personally messaged me with, which is greatly appreciated, about my two SG-116MAX's and I am slowly turning them into beasts. My daughter and I have a blast with these.
Wondering if you could tell me if I should stick with the 2s 2200mah 50c(80c burst) lipo's that we're running? Id like to run 3s and I've heard you say that these will handle 3s on the stock esc, but I've also seen you blow them up. Which I understand that's just part of it, but running these 2s lipo's the esc gets pretty hot... ??
Amazing to hear you enjoy my videos so much, Massively appreciate it Chris🙏
I talk to so many people on Messenger and via email it's hard to remember everyone, my memory is terrible aswell which doesn't help, apologises mate😬
And in regards to the 3s, if it's getting hot on 2s but more importantly if your esc has the 3 screw tabs I would recommend not running 3s as the tabbed ones don't seem to like 3s.
Sorry, I don't know what it means to have a tab on it or not? I'm trying to send you a short video of what I have but I'm not sure if it sent. I have no idea what I'm doing and was hoping you could tell me if any of this is ok..
I have soldered a plug to a fan to run off the charging port of the batteries. Seems to work good and should keep it much cooler... in theory. But I haven't gave them a good smash and dash yet.
Take a look at thus post from a while back, notice the esc/receiver in my car has no tabs.
The one I'm holding in my hand has 3 tabs molded to the case for mounting to the chassis with screws.
ruclips.net/user/postUgkxeY-6eZIQLDyHMKfH8OAWkncYbd6S233Z?si=NcF69EU6kS9XVZZr
And yes most fan will work fine plugged directly into a 2s lipo but for 3s make sure the fan can handle 12v otherwise it will almost definitely smoke😵
Thanks a lot brother... and yes the esc's that we have are the tabbed version.. shucks! Really appreciate the info and your time. It is still tempting to throw a 3s in one and see how long I can push it, but I will take your advise and stick with the 2s lipo's. Is there any way to send you my 30 second video? It would be for you to just take a peek at what I've got going here.
Sorry buddy, I have so many questions!!!!, lol. What would I have to do to safely run these on 3s? I understand I need different/better esc and I think a new transmitter?? Is that it? How do you go about programming it?
A new controller would be nice, but like most poeple money is too tight. I ran mine over with my actual truck and I've re-soldered all broken wires duck taped, jb welded and flex sealed it all back together 👌. And while doing so, for fun I flipped the steering wheel to the other side of the transmitter, now operating throttle with right hand. It works 🤷
Nice rebuild! Do the diffs hold the oil well? I’d be using the same CST as you.
Thanks Mag🙂
Yes they hold oil quite well actually, it's been going strong for a while now after this rebuild, tuff little buggies with the right mods💪
@@rccrazy nice! I will give it a try. Not a fan of the marine grease which leaves them really open :)
Grease inside the diff is not really ideal anyway as it sticks and stays on the diff case creative a void between the gears, even the thickest diff oil runs over the gears constantly lubricating them👌
So far these diffs hold up in my q901 with 1 10 tires
Where do i plug a fan into on one of these rc cars . Do u have a video ?
No video sorry but it's very simple, the 2 ports on the 2in1 for LEDs, they will run a fan no problem you may just have to change the plug on the fan so it will fit.
Alternatively if you buy a 6v to 12v capable fan you can run it of the balance plug on the actual car lipo or just run a separate small 2s lipo directly to the fan.
Love this channel watched heaps of vids it’s why I chose a suchiyu sweep but I need help here after about 6 runs I’m getting way more power through front wheels and the car won’t turn on the throttle anymore I opened the rear diff and all seemed fine no worn gears I added gear oil to the rear diff only no change in performance does anyone have any ideas
Thanks mate I appreciate that🙂
Personally I am a little stumped, I would suggest checking everything from the hexes on the wheels to the bearing on the centre shaft, could just be a blown bearing.
It is sometimes a bit of a mission to find the cause.
@@rccrazy thanks for the reply rccrazy I forgot to mention the the diff seems loose or something because I can stop the rear wheels spinning very easily how can I tighten the diff up you shimmed yours didn’t you ?
Yes you put a shim with the bearing on the crown gear side, that will push the gears closer making the mesh tighter, I think I used 10x12mm shims and 0.3mm thick.
But if you can stop both at the same time while the front keeps going that is worse than just needing shims, that is definitely damage somewhere.
My sweep brushless of this car won’t turn under throttle rear differential seems fine filled it with some gear oil no difference about 6 runs old now a problem please help
How did you fit the 50a esc in the truggy I was trying to get a 45a in mine an can't fit it.. and is that a plate underneath it mine doesn't have one
The Hobbywing 45a and 50a escs are the same size but they fit perfectly fine under my truggy shell without any mods so I don't know why people have difficulty fitting them🤔 your not the first to ask.
But yes there are 2 different versions, one with a esc mount because the escs that came with mine did not have 3 tabs that mount to the chassis.
@@rccrazy that's weird.. thanks for the reply .. love the videos 👍
Sir can you help me pelase i have the q117, when i push the throttle with the car on my hand the wheels spins, when i put it on thr ground i hear a rattle sound like on 2.28 sec like differentials and the car dont drive, when i pushed a little bit it get slowy speed.. what can the problem be i see you put shims on the differentials the chasis is the same like this car on the video
You may have differential damage so yes definitely check them.
But the way you explain it to me it sounds more like a motor cogging issue.
Check the motor wires and the gold plugs, sometimes the wire can come loose inside the solder and it will cause strange throttle issues because the wire is not always touching the gold plug.
Could be something else but that will eliminate those 2 things at least😅
@@rccrazy i will definitly check this two things thank you
🙋🏻♂️I have a question. I have the same Truggy and the esc stopped working. If i buy a new esc, same as the original, do i also need a new controller or something else?
Hey mate, you can definitely keep using the original controller.
Because the radio must pair/bind every time you turn it on and they all have the same protocols/firmware it will bind to your old controller just as the original esc did👌
@@rccrazy thank you very much sir🙏 I’ve been googling and YouTubing and couldn’t find a clear answer. I appreciate you 👍
Your welcome🙂
Yes sometimes what you need to know is not really documented, never hurts to ask a question as you have👌
How do you know the esc stopped working. Mine seems the same too red light/wont connect to controller. And did you get a new one is it working now?
@4YearsHmooB only way to properly tell is by trying a new one.
If it's not doing as it should there is a high chance you just need a new 2in1 board or swap to a esc and hobby grade radio system.
I bought one of these. The green one.. 160101PRO. When I got it. It wouldn’t run on High Mode(fastest). I’ll full throttle then it would stall esc sounds 3 beeps. Seems like I can only run it when the motor warms up. I try 3s lipo and it ran on High mode decently. Anyways my 3s lipo is low so I had to go charge it. Next day I try 2s again and the esc just flashes red the led on front bumper flashes very fast and wont connect up to the controller. I feel that I got a defective one. Im not sure what to do or what the problem is? I might try but this time the 16102PRO one time and see if it will work great for me. Seeing how you had yours for maybe 1-2 years running good.
If it's the 2in1 board(esc) with 3 screw mounting tabs on it you probably killed it with the 3s.
The ones with the tabs can not run 3s.
Not even the brushless? I have the same model/built style. I assume the serial number is just different because of the body style. Mine do have 3 screws to hold it down, also have a red heat shield I think thats what it is. Says 35a 2s.
No do not run 3s on it!
For some reason there is 2 different versions of the 35a 2in1 boards, mine does not have tabs AT ALL but instead held on by double side tape, this version (non tabbed) can handle 3s but the tabbed ones fail on 3s almost every time🤷
May just be one tiny component on the esc that they changed and that changed the capabilities of them, I don't know and I don't think anyone else has found why either🤔
Sorry mate
Thanks for answering my question. I will buy the same exact one you have and same model.
Just be aware the listing's don't always show the exact product, I purchased 2 spares and the pictures showed the non tabbed version but I received 2 tabbed ones🫤
Do the stock diffs come with oil in them?
Not these cars no, just a tiny little bit of grease🫤
Try larger tires 1 10 scale on these cars and see of the can handle it
I personally don't run wheels that don't allow the chassis to bottom out, if it can't every other part cops the stress especially the shocks and swingarms.
1/10 buggy wheels are OK on this car but I would never run 1/10 truck or truggy wheels as it will cause excess stress and higher chance of damage.
@@rccrazy i use on my 1 16 schale 1 10wheels of my traxxas slash and longer schrews for the chassis so it will spam the screws in stead of my shock absorber
Are these diffs good for larger tires i orded some one and hopefully they last longer than the iron diffs on 1 10 tires
Not sure, they are not the strongest diffs
@@rccrazy my first one was iron and lasted 1 month with big tires
Do they come stock with oil in the difs
No just a little grease
@@rccrazythank you
What model number is the (trugy) @ 8:10 is it 16101 or 16102 I want to upgrade but I’m not sure what number it is
The Pro versions have all the same parts mate, parts from the Buggy, Truggy and Gantry are compatible.
If you have a brushed version and want to upgrade to steel diffs and everything just search "SCY 1/16 Pro" and you should find the upgraded parts you need.
@@rccrazythank you I’m new to the game his really helped me
@preciseX556 not a problem at all🙂
I have lots of videos on these cars so plenty of info but I'm always happy to help more if possible👍