I love my RidgeRock! I upgraded my servos, removed tire foam, used 1.9 beadlocks and new tires. Added wheel weights to all four tires. Also added black wheel weights to both diffs. Changed out lower arms to high clearance aluminum arms. The rig is unstoppable. One of my favorite vehicles. So impressive. Great video! Keep up the great work.
Well done Troy! All the right mods for this awesome little truck, for very little $ $ yielded impressive performance gains in the end! Awesome job brother!👊🏼😆👍🏻
Great video, Troy! Great mods. I ordered one of these danchees. They look fun and for the price I figured why not? I have plenty of high dollar builds lol. Something about these rigs just calls to me. Really enjoyed your video! Gonna have to find someone to print that tray for me since my 3d printer fried lol.
Even with this, I am still not 100% satisfied with the weight distribution. I really want to remove more rear weight and get more in the front. Perhaps that is one of the drawbacks of MOA when it adds a lump of metal at the rear!
First of all man, LOVE your videos! Your video you did on calibrating Hobbywing on your drift car helped me tremendously on getting mine going! Quick question... just got my Ridgerock dropped off and had a question on how low the ESC sits. I saw another video where they removed it and relocated it inside... what do you think are the Pros/Cons on this mod? Thank you🙂
Hi there! Glad to hear the videos have been helpful! Basically - any time you can move weight forward and down, that is the right move. You want the rear to be very light, and all of the weight to be as low and forward as possible.
Love my danchee! I used bullet weights-(amazon-Bullet Weights 1-Pound Roll Hollow Core Lead Wire Fishing Line, 1/4-Inch,) on the rims of mine and it made a world of difference with the injora 2.2 hyrax knock offs.
I am relatively new to this channel, and I got one of these last month. I don't have a 3d printer for that battery tray mod, and I don't exactly know how to change from a factory battery set up to the same or similar battery set up you have done on this one. Do you still use the same receiver that it came with? I have changed the receiver and esc on my brushless Typhon and Senton, but I am new to the crawler scene, and just don't feel comfortable yet with the delicateness of it all. Any insight is appreciated. Awesome mods btw, and explaining everything, it's very helpful.
Thanks for joining! Yes - I kept the factory electronics in order to maintain the 4WS, etc. To run a lipo, all you need is the battery itself. The factory battery is a Li-ion, so going to a Lipo - the ESC is fine.
@@gihonda127 I use these on many of my crawlers. Note - you will need to solder on a new connector to the truck - these XT60 connectors are much better. www.amazon.com/dp/B08R72ZF6N/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_9A33B9MEA9VHYSYVW9ZK?linkCode=ml2&tag=roadsiderc-20
Ok couple of things... first off, moving the shock mounting points to the farthest back and up helps alot. No keys needed. Second, use some high clearance links that are a few mm longer than the stock plastic ones which will not only increase the shock angles but will also decrease the height. Lowered it considerably with just these mods alone. You are way overthinking it. Oh and just attach the weights to the tops of the servos, 4 of them fit perfectly.
I know the E10 links fit, but my understanding is they are the same length. Which links did you use? I prefer my weight to be as low as possible, hence them going low. Plus, they are hidden, so don't look ugly.
@@RoadsideRC I used the E-10 links. You will have to run your wires up the center y links. Because of the bends it makes it sit lower and flatter. I used square black weights from Amazon and I use a Traxxas ID lipo in the stock spot. Proline BFG tires w/hairbuns, It easily out crawls my modified C2X that's now a C1.
@@RoadsideRC no, that's ok... my CG is low enough that it side hills fine. Too much mass that far forward will make it endo more easily when going downhill.
For the part that you pointed out where it previously fell but in your current run after mods it didn't... do you think it was due to the lowering of the Ridgerock or the weights that were added? I guess what I'm asking is was one mod more the factor than the other for it not falling? Great video.
@Roadside RC ya just something to mess with . I have a couple projects I'm finishing up bully2 and a lcg for crazy lines . I just seen some things I thought was cool with one of those . I guess more of bouncer style build with one instead of just crawling.
Ok thank you. I seen that 1 when I looked it up. I like the stand alone version like yours but I guess times have changed lol. Just ordered the danshee. I did the 4 wheel steer on my Everest 10 last night with your help! Turned out great! Love your channel you’re awesome!
How many RC, 1/10 scale trucks come with all the weight of a motor and a servo built onto each axle ? That's a LOT of weight you would otherwise have a hard time getting on there, besides zip tying an old motor & servo onto each axle for weight. And you think you still need more, lol !!! Tunnel vision.........MUST HAVE MORE WEIGHT !?!? At what point are you just kicking a dead horse ?
That is really odd. I haven't heard of them bending before. Since this truck is not very popular, I don't think there are many aftermarket parts for them.
@@RoadsideRC Are you sure they aren't that popular? I seam see them everywhere and loads of videos. It seams to be the go to for getting into the hobby for cheap. Maybe I'm wrong. But yeah, I have a bent wheel shaft FR and it makes the wheel wabble. It must be a known problem because they are out of stock everywhere. Sadly. I did see a massive upgrade that included the whole assembly but I can not for the life of me find it again.
@RoadsideRC I rather deck out my ground pounder by redcat, I did some modifications and put bigfoot body on it, I geuss I like the ideal of one motor and 2 drive lines,Gen 7,Everett 10
I love my RidgeRock! I upgraded my servos, removed tire foam, used 1.9 beadlocks and new tires. Added wheel weights to all four tires. Also added black wheel weights to both diffs. Changed out lower arms to high clearance aluminum arms. The rig is unstoppable. One of my favorite vehicles. So impressive. Great video! Keep up the great work.
Thanks!
Glad you like the truck!
Which arms did you get? Been trying to look for some
Watching this crawler makes it hard believe it's under 200 bucks unbelievable value
Agree!
Well done Troy! All the right mods for this awesome little truck, for very little $ $ yielded impressive performance gains in the end! Awesome job brother!👊🏼😆👍🏻
Yes! Thank you!
I appreciate you, Troy.
Thank you!
@@RoadsideRC how can i share my danchee build with you?
Adding the lead moved weight to the driver side. That was a big help
How does that help?
Great video, Troy! Great mods. I ordered one of these danchees. They look fun and for the price I figured why not? I have plenty of high dollar builds lol. Something about these rigs just calls to me. Really enjoyed your video! Gonna have to find someone to print that tray for me since my 3d printer fried lol.
Agree 100%
Sometimes the cheaper and fun cars can be really fun!
Finally got my Danchee man I'm all over your videos trying to make mine get better
Awesome! Hope they help!
Love hangin' out at Troy's RC Skunkworks. 😁 Great mods for low bucks, love it !
Thank you!
impressive improvement. I am intrigued by the Ridgerock and it's MOA. Could be in my future plans.
If you get it, I hope you enjoy it!
Waiting for mine to arrive & I found this video! Now I’m so excited for it to arrive. 😊
Great! Glad to hear it!
We added steel wheels weights to the top
Of the servos on Grayson’s .. made a big difference.. might have to try the shock keys..
Even with this, I am still not 100% satisfied with the weight distribution. I really want to remove more rear weight and get more in the front. Perhaps that is one of the drawbacks of MOA when it adds a lump of metal at the rear!
First of all man, LOVE your videos! Your video you did on calibrating Hobbywing on your drift car helped me tremendously on getting mine going! Quick question... just got my Ridgerock dropped off and had a question on how low the ESC sits. I saw another video where they removed it and relocated it inside... what do you think are the Pros/Cons on this mod? Thank you🙂
Hi there! Glad to hear the videos have been helpful!
Basically - any time you can move weight forward and down, that is the right move. You want the rear to be very light, and all of the weight to be as low and forward as possible.
when its not perfect then you get to work on it making so much better
*full view always💯Au👍big like*
That is part of the fun!
Love my danchee! I used bullet weights-(amazon-Bullet Weights 1-Pound Roll Hollow Core Lead Wire Fishing Line, 1/4-Inch,) on the rims of mine and it made a world of difference with the injora 2.2 hyrax knock offs.
Interesting! Thanks for the feedback!
anti-squat, anti-dive - drill 4 holes in the frame and move the upper links down, this will form a ">" on the rear and "
Thanks for the tip!
Or should I just buy the shock keys and adjust accordingly? I appreciate the advice.
I am relatively new to this channel, and I got one of these last month. I don't have a 3d printer for that battery tray mod, and I don't exactly know how to change from a factory battery set up to the same or similar battery set up you have done on this one. Do you still use the same receiver that it came with? I have changed the receiver and esc on my brushless Typhon and Senton, but I am new to the crawler scene, and just don't feel comfortable yet with the delicateness of it all. Any insight is appreciated. Awesome mods btw, and explaining everything, it's very helpful.
Thanks for joining!
Yes - I kept the factory electronics in order to maintain the 4WS, etc.
To run a lipo, all you need is the battery itself. The factory battery is a Li-ion, so going to a Lipo - the ESC is fine.
@@RoadsideRC can you recommend a lipo bat that would fit or the one that you use?
@@gihonda127 I use these on many of my crawlers. Note - you will need to solder on a new connector to the truck - these XT60 connectors are much better.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08R72ZF6N/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_9A33B9MEA9VHYSYVW9ZK?linkCode=ml2&tag=roadsiderc-20
I like the weights in the axle good idea and looks better
Thanks - agree, I don't like seeing them outside.
Have you had any issues with the plastic c hubs in your ridgerock?
I was glad I bought two danshees one for parts.
I have not! Haven't broken a thing on it!
I'm getting one soon or most of your parts listed in the link below
Awesome!
Hope you enjoy it!
Can you change out the body on the Danchee Ridgerock?
You can. However, you need to get a little creative based on the side-mount style it uses.
What wheel spacers did you use? And do you k own where to order the spacers for the shocks? I can't find them anywhere
These are the wheel hubs I used:
amzn.to/41PVJDt
And the shock standoffs were just some I had laying around.
Ok couple of things... first off, moving the shock mounting points to the farthest back and up helps alot. No keys needed. Second, use some high clearance links that are a few mm longer than the stock plastic ones which will not only increase the shock angles but will also decrease the height. Lowered it considerably with just these mods alone. You are way overthinking it. Oh and just attach the weights to the tops of the servos, 4 of them fit perfectly.
I know the E10 links fit, but my understanding is they are the same length. Which links did you use?
I prefer my weight to be as low as possible, hence them going low. Plus, they are hidden, so don't look ugly.
@@RoadsideRC I used the E-10 links. You will have to run your wires up the center y links. Because of the bends it makes it sit lower and flatter. I used square black weights from Amazon and I use a Traxxas ID lipo in the stock spot. Proline BFG tires w/hairbuns, It easily out crawls my modified C2X that's now a C1.
@@KingMrBigE Now you can move that lipo up front and it will be even better!
@@RoadsideRC no, that's ok... my CG is low enough that it side hills fine. Too much mass that far forward will make it endo more easily when going downhill.
Does it still have Cog Stall even with a 3S battery?
Yes it does. Just a core issue with the design.
For the part that you pointed out where it previously fell but in your current run after mods it didn't... do you think it was due to the lowering of the Ridgerock or the weights that were added? I guess what I'm asking is was one mod more the factor than the other for it not falling? Great video.
The lowering had more of an impact than the weight.
Does the battery that was added increase battery life? I want to get into crawling and maximize my drive time.
Sure does!!!
What wheels and tires are you using please
Hi James!
The video description has links to all of the parts.
Is the ridge rock basically the Everest 10- cuz I’m looking for parts for my e-10.
Nope! Very different vehicles.
Thank you
Are you running 3s on the stock electronics Troy??
Yes - runs 3S great on the stock ESC!
@@RoadsideRC have seen sonoran scale studios use 3s also but i"m afraid 🤦🏽♂️
Is this one still around ? And the wheels and tires ? I was just looking at one
Yep! I think Redcat still sells it.
Honestly - if I remember correctly, you have some other crawlers that would be better than this in the long run.
@Roadside RC ya just something to mess with . I have a couple projects I'm finishing up bully2 and a lcg for crazy lines . I just seen some things I thought was cool with one of those . I guess more of bouncer style build with one instead of just crawling.
🥰🤩💥💯👍👏
Do the wheels bolt right on?
I used a wider wheel hub to get the proper spacing. I believe there is a link in the video description.
Where did you find that scale?
It is the older version of this one:
amzn.to/3F5pA1k
Ok thank you. I seen that 1 when I looked it up. I like the stand alone version like yours but I guess times have changed lol. Just ordered the danshee. I did the 4 wheel steer on my Everest 10 last night with your help! Turned out great! Love your channel you’re awesome!
Just glue the weights to the bottom of the axle and Pan them black and you're done.
1) it doesn't look good
2) don't want to reduce ground clearance
How many RC, 1/10 scale trucks come with all the weight of a motor and a servo built onto each axle ? That's a LOT of weight you would otherwise have a hard time getting on there, besides zip tying an old motor & servo onto each axle for weight.
And you think you still need more, lol !!!
Tunnel vision.........MUST HAVE MORE WEIGHT !?!?
At what point are you just kicking a dead horse ?
Have you ever studied full comp crawlers? Check out a few of those (like the Bully) and see what you think. That is how far it can go.
“ He can do what he wants. it’s his toy truck. “ 😂
Added better tires to mine and it’s 2x better
Tires do make a huge difference!!!
Fairly inexpensive recommendation?
Did u replace the wheels or just the tires and what one did u choose? Please
@jacob55yearsago47 Please what?
I'm getting bent wheel axels and everyone is out of sock. Anyone know where I can get upgraded wheel axels that don't bend easily?
That is really odd. I haven't heard of them bending before.
Since this truck is not very popular, I don't think there are many aftermarket parts for them.
@@RoadsideRC Are you sure they aren't that popular? I seam see them everywhere and loads of videos. It seams to be the go to for getting into the hobby for cheap. Maybe I'm wrong. But yeah, I have a bent wheel shaft FR and it makes the wheel wabble. It must be a known problem because they are out of stock everywhere. Sadly. I did see a massive upgrade that included the whole assembly but I can not for the life of me find it again.
Thanks, now I know not to buy one
Glad to help!
@RoadsideRC I rather deck out my ground pounder by redcat, I did some modifications and put bigfoot body on it, I geuss I like the ideal of one motor and 2 drive lines,Gen 7,Everett 10