Miter Folding - A Production Technique for Making Columns (no exposed fasteners)
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- Опубликовано: 30 сен 2024
- Miter folding is a great production technique for assembling columns without any exposed fasteners. This technique is great for when you don't want to use a lock miter/shaper, but you still don't want any exposed fasteners.
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This is really a channel for pros. This guy is so open with his trade secrets it is phenomenal. I can't tell you how much of the stuff he has given that I have worked into my workflow. Thanks Spencer!
Thanks for the kind words Justin. Very motivating.
Absolutely agree
You sir are the Payton Manning of carpentry.
Awesome time saver...i have 4 columns to build..this does help. Never too old to learn and never too young to teach. Thx
That saying is a keeper.
I like your approach, very methodical. It's obvious you know what you are doing. Idea for video: how you find clients and how you bid a job.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and craft. It amazes me to see what you are capable of and doing it all solo.
Great job Spencer!! Really learned a lot from this video. You’re the man!
Great job man we use 3M heavy duty tape but use a J roller or veneer blade 2 rub that tape down good and it generally stays together pretty good. Thanks for sharing
Love the craftsmanship. I've been doing trades work most of my life, up until about 10 years ago when the economy tanked and I wasn't prepared enough to last the drought. I ended up getting a degree in network technology, but I just don't feel the satisfaction I get from working with my hands and tools. I'm constantly learning and always expanding my skill set, but now I incorporate technology to make things a little more unique. Your skill and attitude is exactly what I've been looking for to help continue elevating myself. I've been focused on joinery, but I can see the resurgence in trades and I'm in the process of also creating a RUclips channel with woodworking and technology craftsmanship combined and using that a platform to build another company. Where are you in the Midwest? I'm a Florida boy now, but I was born and raised in North Central Iowa and Southern Minnesota. Any videos you can offer regarding tricky angles and solutions for that issue would be greatly appreciated. I'm mostly self-taught, and I'm resourceful, but I struggle with angles. I'm gonna go back and fine tune my Dewalt sliding miter now that I watched your other video on that. Keep it up man. We need people like you to keep America grounded and traditional. God Bless brother.
Thanks Ryan. I appreciate the kind words. I'm in Indiana.
I honestly don't know why you share all of these tips and techniques, but boy am I glad that you do! Truly a master...thank you!
KelMaster Construction yeah like neurosurgeon right ?
KelMaster Construction chill , don’t get to serious i get it
The only thing I would have done, before shooting the ply to the styles and rails, is add glue to the S&R, and then shoot off the ply.
good job. but why not use a bit of glue between the styles and plywood.
This was great, I built two post covers two years ago using the Freud stile and rail set, it worked out fine but your method shown here looks like it's much faster and a fair bit easier. Thank you for sharing your experienced method, I thought...wow man, wish I had done it that way. Great work! Andrew
Well done! I have been contemplating this for my house for thirty years. Great tutorial. I have been a carpenter for 40 years and you taught me something.
8:18 priceless info right there. Thank you!
Just wanted to add my two cents to this technique. I have been struggling to build box newell covers to slip over my existing newell posts. Wanting to keep the dimensions small, I decided to use 1/2" plywood which proved tricky to get a good 45 degree bevel. Then I looked at the setup in this video and realized that I was running the stock through the table saw wrong. My saw is a right tilt model and was pinching the stock against the fence. I moved the fence to the left side of the blade and voila, the stock runs through easily and cleanly. Plus the tip about clear packing tape and I now have 3 perfect 50" long boxes that I am going to trim out with poplar prior to painting white. Thanks for taking the time to produce this video and sharing your knowledge. You are awesome!
This was a wonderful information , plan to implement!
If you quickly ran a tack clothe over it the tape would stick better.
Love your vids man.... thinking of starting my own channel now that i'm retired... I never miter my columns I leave edges square, line up inner edges and apply 1/2 inch quarter round to the space... it gives the columns a softer rounded edge look with a slight reveal and is simpler than mitering, I don't know if you are adding shoe to the inside of side panels but that is what I do to complete the look...
I want to see the end product please, But I like your work
DM
Nice shop. Great informative videos!
Great work, it's nice to see a guy explaining what works better in a given situation and why it is so. A lot of DIY-ers do not take into account a lot of the small things you say when they plan their project, including myself. It takes experience to forsee a lot of situations so thank you very much for sharing yours.
Sweet! Zero clamps needed, that’s refreshing. Thank you for imparting your knowledge on us!
Very authentic videos - sets you apart.
First rate thoughtful content.. thanks
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge. God Bless
You really are a true professional, the only thing I wish is that I could see is the finished product on the job site!
You have made my day! I pulled so many good tricks and or techniques from this video that I will be using them when my next big project comes along. Here’s a tip: use a slightly damp cloth to remove the dust before you apply the clear tape.
Just curious. Why wouldn't you make a 3/4" plywood core box and then use solid wood rails and styles for your raised paneling then your just mitering the rails instead of the whole column sides? I have done it that way many times and I think it would be quicker for the same result. I like your attention to detail.
Great video. Thanks
Still trying ti figure out the diameter of the square inside the column? Thanks for taking the time to share your ideas.
Why do you not glue your panels before stapling? Just a small amount so as not to have squeeze out.
" Just shoot a couple through there" he shoots like 10 LOL
Best tape for folding miters is 3M 355 carton sealing tape. It’s a little difficult to find by the roll but can be purchased in bulk at uline. I love your channel and always seem to learn something new.
Sweet. I'll check that type of tape out. What specifically is better about it? My biggest things was finding a type that doesn't tear and is decently sticky, but not so sticky that it damages things.
It’s just sticky enough and has just the right amount of flexibility. I would be careful on Pre finished material as it can remove finish. I have tried every clear tape available at Home Depot and staples and always return to the 355 or “V- fold tape”.
If you are setting the saw at 45 1/2 deg and you are making the inside squaring blocks the width of the heels of the 2 miters that would make it out of square, wouldn't it? thanks
Nice work. And that fly almost became a permanent part of your project right at 13:33. Thanks for posting informative videos.
Do you think you'd ever show a video on running modern base? 1x6 maybe? Getting good outside corners, and how to tweak an inside that doesn't have a good wall or if it's more on how u cut at the miter? Also what tolerances do you want with painted base, then stain grade?
Outside corners are very often greater than 45 degrees due to the build up of drywall mud at the corners. One little trick that I had done was to cut several sets of 1×4 blocks about a foot long. Cut the test blocks flat, not upright, at angles of 45° , 46° maybe 47° and check each corner with these sets ahead of time marking the degree on each corner. Also note that the lengths of the base will be at the intersection point of these two pieces (sometimes the corner of the trim will actually be beyond the drywall corner). By placing the test blocks flat you can pretty accurately gauge to about a half of a degree with great accuracy.
Messy inside corners can generally be cleaned up by tapping them with a block no higher than the base itself, being of course respectful to not damage the tape joint at the corner. The great thing about coping is that it produces outstanding inside corners.
Hope that helps.
SuperAlfaDogg that’s smart
great video, Sheathing Tape works much better than packing tape
you taught me well and I'm really thankful for you and your video - you're awesome !!!!!
Love the clear tape tip.
Great technique; thanks for posting. On the glue choice, TB II Extend is thinner than TB III, and has a longer open time. It's a little hard to find, but great for large or complex assemblies.
I’ll have to get some. I use enough that it would be worth getting some to try out. 👍👍
Good job dude! I knew you were putting that block on the wrong section oh, I knew it needed to be in the middle I was waiting for you to realize it LOL have a great day bro
Great videos! Have you tried any other tapes? We use strapping tape. Clear, not too tacky, and very strong.
Great videos. Any tips/secrets for making the blocking when building a mitered wrap over a 4” steel lally column in a basement?
Was thinking about your technique here and came to mind that is application would work great for making CRAFTSMAN TAPERED COLUMNS.
Next video 🤔
Such fine work! I'm in awe. I kind of feel like a Little League runt giving a suggestion to a Major League Star, but I'm wondering if you've considered house wrap tape for your glue-up. Tyvek tape is translucent, but you can see a lot of texture through it. It is super sticky though.
All the info is great cant wait to put it to use!!!
Using clear tape is a awesome idea!!
I like it better. Just make sure you get the heavy duty thicker stuff. It is much better to work with and doesn't tear nearly as easily. I've got a link in the notes.
I made some miter fold shelves following the video. My equipment isn’t the best but they came out pretty good however there were some gaps at the edges of the folds. What would you recommend I do to fill those gaps. The shelves will be painted. Thanks.
I have No idea what your taking about but I love watching your show. Math just isn't my thing so building don't work for me.
everything there looks great but why are you using plywood on a column anyway? don't you think it would look better and be better with standard wood that's how I do mine I never build it with plywood I've done it before and it just doesn't look good
I really like the Ron Paulk table. Handy in any shop.
Do you prefer lock miters or miter fold?
I prefer miter fold when using sheet goods and lock miters for solid wood
Try the reinforced strapping tape. Have you tried Titebond's moulding glue? When I have used this process I roll the corners with a nail set slightly to make sure the edges are closed which forces the glue into the edge.
I do the same with burnishing the edges. I prefer a thin glue like TB3 for this. Gives more working time and allows the joint to come together better.
Is there a specific reason you didn't glue the 1/4" panel to the backside of the frame rails/stiles when you attached it?
I do most of the time. On stain grade sometimes I don’t so I don’t have to worry about any accidents messing up stain. The staples are plenty strong enough without it.
Would love to see how the miter lock works on the shaper
My next house about six columns so I hope to do a video on the lock miter when I do that house. 👍 it’ll be a couple months away probably.
that's a great idea to rip that down after the woods on it I never thought of that LOL that's a great idea because it is a pain in the butt to get it perfect when you put your styles and rails all on cuz that miter you just cut it with it already built on that's super smart
Have you thought about using MDF as the panel? 3/4" th makes for a solid stable feel.
MDF paints up really nice and is a great option.
Great video and helpful tip on using clear tape. Are these used for hiding posts ? If so doesn't the center block get in the way ? Thanks
Correct. They hide posts. Center block gets removed at time of install. Until then it helps keep things from getting damaged and keeps square.
Nice video. Very well explained. Appreciate the pro tips throughout.
Brother! Great skills - Asset to the trades!
Thanks boss!
Just shoot a couple thru there, Bang, bang, bangbangbangbangbangbang bang
Would this glue up method hold up on exterior posts? Or will the wood glue let go over time?
Thanks for this! Let's hope the fourth panel fits well when you get on site.
Spencer your the men.
Learned a ton thanks!
Great tips there, thanks
I found that the clear Gorilla tape works well
Some great tips Spencer. Have you ever heard of the Miter Folding tablesaw blade from Rockler? That works really good in some situations.
Another tool I have started using is the Lamello Zeta P2 system using the Tenso clamps/biscuits. They are so good for doing faux beams, crown moldings, window trim and so much more. And they have other components that do even more.
Do yourself a favor and check out the Lamello Zeta P2 and the Tenso clamps. You can get rid of the tape when doing miters. If you or anyone else decides to go with the Lamello Zeta P2, do yourself a favor and get the diamond blade instead of the carbide blade as the diamond blade lasts a very long time. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/NdE4p4MQnpY/видео.html
I have no affiliation with this company. I just wanted to share a tip since you have shared so many with your viewers.
Thanks Spencer. Happy Holidays!
Ron
I have seen things like the miter folding blade, the issue I see is that the workpiece has to be ran perfectly tight to the table which doesn't happen much on larger pieces.
I have had my eye on the zeta. I may have to pull the trigger before year end to save some tax money. I know I'll end up buying it eventually. Its just a salty pill to swallow. And thanks for the tip on the diamond cutter. 👍
Insider Carpentry Yeah I know what you mean regarding the miter folding blade and especially pieces as large as you were working on.
Regarding the Lamello Zeta P2 I think you will think why you waited so long to get one. I did. And I think I got an email a few weeks ago regarding a year end sale on their new 20the anniversary edition. I think it’s either $100 or $150 cheaper than I paid for it. Their accessories are on sale as well.
I got mine from my local dealer not from Colonial Saw. They are like Festool in that their prices are set and the price is the same anywhere you buy it.
And just an FYI there are two different SYSTAINER boxes of consumables so make sure you get the right one for your needs. Or you can buy the consumables by the box in I think 3 different quantities If you don’t need the variety of consumables/components in the systainers.
If you decide to get one let me know how you like it...
Ron
Thanks for the info
Nice one dude!
love the video thank you !
Great job! Thanks for the video.
I see others mentioned glueing the 1/4" panel to the frame along with the trusty staples.
Try 3M Scotch brand #3743 2" clear tape, and use a J-roller to apply the tape to the completely dust-free surface of your aligned miters. Remove the tape carefully as it may try to pull some grain; especially on veneer. Good video!
Wonky!
Awesome
Curious. Why don't you glue the plywood to styles? Also noticed in another vid you were gluing all the casing but not the base miters. I don't do much trim and never glued base miters either. I just assumed you guys glue everything with a joint.
Perfect execution.
Nice job!
There’s flies on my screen
thank you for sharing your knowledge spencer!
You bet.
My God I’m so jealous at the tools this man has!! So jealous
Great job,glad to be a new subscriber
Glad to have you. Thanks!
Great videos Thanks. Looks like the squaring blocks were a few 16ths less than the inside column dimension (12:50). Is that so the 4th panel press-fits into an opening smaller than it's width for better corner control (along with the 45.5 degree mitres)?
It might be 1/32 shy, you don't want it to keep the miter from being able to come together, but not a few 16ths. Its probably just the way the video makes it look being that the 1/4 ply is ripped at 45 and looks the same color.
I've used that tape and glue technique for boxes and columns. Great tip on using clear tape. I have always done all 4 sides at once. That way you don't get any surprises trying to fit the 4th side after the glue dried. I assume you would do the same except for the fact you are probably assembling the 4th panel onsite around a fixed column.
Yep. They are wrapping support columns.
Great demo!
Thanks Tom. 👍
A J roller over the tape helps in keeping it down.
I've had great success using aluminum duct tape for miter folding corners. It adheres well to most surfaces, including MDF. Being aluminum, it emphasizes the crispness or gaps in the fold. When removing the tape, it may raise some of the grain because of how well it adheres. A little block sanding usually takes care of this. It may seem expensive at first, but the time saving and quality make up for it. You can probably get by with skip taping versus running packing tape the entire length.
I like your thought process.
Using plywood as straight edge is smart, since the material is solid wood. Cutting it at 45* thru both material leaves a clean sharp edge.
Finger joint works well in this application.
Do you leave that sqr block brace in the column?
Mansard Manor Thanks. The square block just is there to keep it square while the glue dries and provide support during transit. I took them out when I installed the column around the post.
@@InsiderCarpentry thought so, block support. Thanks
I'm glad you're meticulous. I don't understand the material choice for paint grade trim, I think polar is just to fuzzy. I'm sure it's a regional thing but for me if I'm not clearing $800 a day it's really not worth my time. I don't know what what your profit margins are but for someone of your skill I would like to see 6X the average joe. What ever you're getting in sales I hope it's worth it. I prefer mdf over polar just because it saves on the cost of painters. Just my opinion and your clients are truly winners, way better than I see on the daily.
Thanks. I wish I could use mdf in my climate. Here in the Midwest USA the humidity swings cause mdf to expand contract like crazy. That’s why we seldom use it here.
Agreed that mdf paints much better.
Fun fact. Poplar is the state tree of my state. It’s plentiful here. 👍👊
A cabinet shop i used to work at used to use poplar a lot on their paint grade cabinets but they stopped using it because years down the road the green in the poplar would sometimes show through. They switched to using soft maple and or birch. Just an fyi.
i do the same thing but ive been using blue tape. Im gonna have to use clear tape the thought never crossed my mind but would be a lot better to be able to see the miter instead of feeling it.