Love your trades-focused videos. Lots of channels around focus on the DIY side of everything but as a carpenter I really appreciate your coming from that perspective!
I get so much out of each of your videos. I find myself using something I've picked up from you nearly on a daily basis. As someone who is markedly older than you, I can say that I get the same rush of excitement when I learn something new from one of your videos that I used to get watching Norm Abram way back in my 20's. Thank you so much for all that you do to further the excellence within our trade. You are appreciated more than you know.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to put this out there. I’m getting ready to do my first beam and have some specific questions about installation that aren’t covered in the tutorial. Is there anymore videos related to this or a way to contact you about questions? I would be willing to pay for it if necessary. Thanks
Best trim page on YT!!! You showed multiple amazing tricks. A few I already knew but the tacking tape and dispenser is awesome I'm going to buy one now. One of my favorite tricks are those gator wipes at home depot. No need for a wet rag since I don't always running water on the job.
So glad your back, your the best teacher I’ve ever seen, I can see your dedication to your craft and your calling, dedicate the same to your family because none of this matters in the end! I remind myself daily. That sense of accomplishment when you put in that extra at the end of the day get it all wrapped up and look at the clock and realize the ones you love will be asleep when you get back to the house, and that other feeling creeps over and makes you wonder if it’s all worth it. Love to you and your family! Thanks and praises!
Hey Spencer, great to have you back. I have a strong suspicion that you are a guy that has watched a good amount of Gary Kat work. I’m a big fan of Gary’s as I am of yours both top quality finish carpenters and really good teachers have a gift for both, so appreciative that you share happy to hear your wife is doing well and I said a prayer for her just today at church. well done and keep them coming, please
We are all so fortunate to have Spencer explain the steps involved when building these whiteoak beams. No telling how many years it took for him to learn this craft!! Thank you and glad you are back.
Excellent video as always and extremely useful on a key item as a finish carpenter, one I’m still learning. When you paused your uploads your multitude of videos were still here for us to learn from. Thank you for all you do and share as a fellow tradesman.
Glad your back Spencer, was hoping you'd come back, wishing you and yours the best, IMO your essential for anyone trying to reach perfection, and I'm trying lol...we appreciate your efforts, I send guys to your channel all the time when I get questions, you say it and do it the best man .thank you...
I learned a lot of this from you on Instagram, did it in my basement to wrap lallys (impressed the wife, thanks for that), and now I'm back watching again because your content and finish skill is top notch. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
9:40 we have ours set on a smaller Rubbermaid shop cart that is topped off with a piece of 3/4” ply, slides right off on to saw stop and visa versa, exactly like the one I saw under your chop saw out feed, yes more expensive than shop made box with caster’s but it’s what we had at time 18:50 back filling collector is no fun especially when media gets filled up, we had the dust deputy from Oneida but wires got severed, so I put a light behind flex tubes, though now we’ve upgraded to a rotary air lock from Oneida
Hello Spencer, so glad to have you back. You have been missed. I have noticed even more detail and explanation to your master class of teaching. Which is very helpful and appreciated. Something very useful to my work flow is a Bora roller chassis that is expandable, height adjustable and on locking caster wheels that would work well as an infeed table and material transport device. I am sorry that I can't recollect the name but I see that you have a lot of their lumber storage racks so you are familiar with their quality. Thanks again Spencer. 👍👍
Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge! You’re able to pass the tips and tricks as efficiently as you work. Now for the but,,,,ditch the trash can for the power feeder! One day it’s going to fold up like a beer can and there go your toes -it’s not like you don’t have a shop handy to build a proper rolling cart.
I would agree on the Glue-Bot however a close 2 nd is the Milwaukee 23 ga Pinner ! I know I hv put tons of pins in mine and I bet your in the truck loads ! I used to say the Porter Cable Air pinner was Solid Gun , until I got the Milwaukee! Great Video ! Spence I am a man of God ! So u can be assured you and the family R on my list !
Made parts for 12 box beams yesterday. Table saw power feeder was a game changer for me. Would’ve been misery processing all these 1x8 boards without it. But now I gotta find some good lightweight gloves because these miters are murder on my hands.
Great video sir thank you for showing how its done . Only thing i would add (if possible dimensions permitting) run the edge on a jointer before ripping the miter . And also give yourself some relief where the beam goes to the ceiling . Either a rabbit cut or a 30 degree cut to make it easier to scribe that 3/4" solid oak
Thanks for a great video ! 🎉 So much info really helps us that aren't experts (just yet) 😊 Hope ya have an awesome week and everything turns out great for the final part of the job 😅 👍🤙👊
Great tutorial Spencer!! If I may add your poplar FJ cleats id have to rip a 1.5 degree bevel on so when we go to install there’s less of a chance to get hung up on the cleats leading edge👍🏼And dang you for making me want Power feed!!
I do my box beams very similarly, I put a 30 degree cut on the top edge of my beams so when I cut my ceiling scribes I’m not cutting a full 3/4”. It’s an extra step at the table saw but with a feeder it goes fast and it saves time on site during the install.
Hey Spencer If you just squeeze the glue straight into the point of the miters..when you do that first roll over it will spread the glue more even all the way across both miters..and it saves you from having to squeeze the glue on both pieces. It's a one shot deal instead of two. It will cut your glue bott squeezing time in half
Very informative and professional video, thank you. You must have mortgaged your house for all that White oak, I’m paying 8.40 a Bd ft here in NC. Prayers for you and your wife❤
Spencer, great content and in-depth explanation. You never disappoint. However, one thing I noticed here that was omitted from your previous box beam builds is here you didn’t burnish the folds. You just went straight to sanding. Do you no longer burnish and just incorporate this in while sanding?
If the miter is really good and is fitting really good, burnishing isn't required. Burnishing is more necessary if you have a slightly open miter in some areas. In this case I was able to lightly sand while the glue was wet and get a perfect miter while slightly easing the edge, that's all I needed here.
Thanks for the master class! You had a previous video where you used a shaper for the 45 and a t/g system? Not a fan anymore? Love the Festool EC 150 but put a hard pad on it to save corners. On last thing, Oneida makes a cyclone for the Festool vacuum. Thanks again.
Spencer, great video. Would love it if someday you would show a beam that is longer than single piece of lumber. I want to put a beam across my 24' ceiling and I am not sure how to piece it together.
i used that strapping Tape for miter folding veneered white oak plywood and it pulled a lot of the veneer off and left a lot of glue lines, when i tried sanding off the glue it was also taking the veneer off, so now when i do plywood miter fold i use regular tape
Like you say, it is very important to sand the tape residue off. I had a nice floating shelf, and i must have missed one of the sides, and when the painters came in and did their finish, i could see a tape mark. So sanding is mandatory!!
Great job as usual! You mentioned sanding tape residue so it doesn’t show up in a stain application. Is the tape residue visible to your naked eye, or is it sometimes not noticeable until you stain?
I don’t typically for a number of reasons. Sometimes I need to remove the blocks. If the sides can flex out it makes it easier to fit over the blocking sometimes.
i wish my company had a shop so i could do work like this in a controlled area we just always build beams like this and whatnot on the jobsite so much better to have a controlled area where you have all the tools you need and dont need right there
I prefer hardwood for the blocking. Given that plywood is multiple plies I just don't like the idea of hanging beams from it. Also, It's generally easier for me to use 1x material because its faster to use the longer lengths with just 1 piece where as with plywood I would need multiple pieces.
The advantage of the track saw is that it straight line rips the material but it takes longer. I’d the material is straight I go straight to the table saw.
Form work companys would take you r offcuts to use inside of forms. If they do that there. Also does that tape leave a residue? I never thought of ising off the shelf timber to govern size of beams. Got to go with architects
@@needaman66 that's a brilliant idea for the form work people. Wrap them up in bundles, leave them outside under a roof overhang and tell them to pick them up. 👍👍
I had a toilet staged on a trash can like you've got your powerfeed there when I was doing a bathroom floor. The trashcan folded silently under the weight of the toilet, and the toilet fell and shattered, denting the clear fir floor. It sent me into heart palpitations. I wanted to melt into the ground for a good 20 minutes.
And then I ordered another toilet and got on with my life. The client was an absolute champ, I'm actually building her a kebony deck and renovating a sunroom next year.
@@InsiderCarpentry hey Spencer, someone makes a hoist that you mount inside the back of a pickup truck bed and they show it lifting oil drum barrels. Could be a great addition to the new cart.
What would you do if you had a steel beam measuring 14” wide and 30’ long. It’s packed out so I have a nailing surface. My question what kind of material would you use. Plywood for the 14” width but will have to have couple seams.
The best finish carpentry channel hands down.
No lies detected
Amen! 👍👍
Indeed!
Yes. Actual practical tips.
Agree!
Love your trades-focused videos. Lots of channels around focus on the DIY side of everything but as a carpenter I really appreciate your coming from that perspective!
I get so much out of each of your videos. I find myself using something I've picked up from you nearly on a daily basis. As someone who is markedly older than you, I can say that I get the same rush of excitement when I learn something new from one of your videos that I used to get watching Norm Abram way back in my 20's. Thank you so much for all that you do to further the excellence within our trade. You are appreciated more than you know.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you for taking the time to put this out there. I’m getting ready to do my first beam and have some specific questions about installation that aren’t covered in the tutorial. Is there anymore videos related to this or a way to contact you about questions? I would be willing to pay for it if necessary. Thanks
Glad your back, I missed your shows, and I am pleased that the health problems you faced have had a positive outcome, God Bless. Ray
A PHd lesson from Dr Lewis...... Thank you Spencer for a really great lesson
Glad you’re back, Spencer! Great info as always.
Best trim page on YT!!! You showed multiple amazing tricks. A few I already knew but the tacking tape and dispenser is awesome I'm going to buy one now. One of my favorite tricks are those gator wipes at home depot. No need for a wet rag since I don't always running water on the job.
It is really nice that you take your time to extensively explain all the steps. Thanks !
So glad your back, your the best teacher I’ve ever seen, I can see your dedication to your craft and your calling, dedicate the same to your family because none of this matters in the end! I remind myself daily. That sense of accomplishment when you put in that extra at the end of the day get it all wrapped up and look at the clock and realize the ones you love will be asleep when you get back to the house, and that other feeling creeps over and makes you wonder if it’s all worth it. Love to you and your family! Thanks and praises!
Hey Spencer, great to have you back. I have a strong suspicion that you are a guy that has watched a good amount of Gary Kat work. I’m a big fan of Gary’s as I am of yours both top quality finish carpenters and really good teachers have a gift for both, so appreciative that you share happy to hear your wife is doing well and I said a prayer for her just today at church. well done and keep them coming, please
We are all so fortunate to have Spencer explain the steps involved when building these whiteoak beams. No telling how many years it took for him to learn this craft!! Thank you and glad you are back.
Another great video full of useful information, thank you!
So well done Spencer. These need to be in the Smithsonian. As a retired finish guy, I wish I could have these to refer to.
Your still the best on the internet no one comes close to you on the internet
GREAT to have you back! God bless!
Welcome back Spencer and well wishes to you and the fam.
I always look with envy at the excellent material you work with.
You are such a gem.... god bless!
Excellent video as always and extremely useful on a key item as a finish carpenter, one I’m still learning. When you paused your uploads your multitude of videos were still here for us to learn from. Thank you for all you do and share as a fellow tradesman.
Welcome back!! Best wishes to you & the family
So glad you are back! Wonderful video on box beams and your attention to detail and efficiency. Hope your family is doing well.
Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks. It is always helpful to watch someone else's knowledge and experience's.
Glad you back and feeling better!!!
Glad your back Spencer, was hoping you'd come back, wishing you and yours the best, IMO your essential for anyone trying to reach perfection, and I'm trying lol...we appreciate your efforts, I send guys to your channel all the time when I get questions, you say it and do it the best man .thank you...
Great video Spencer. Glad you are back 👍
I learned a lot of this from you on Instagram, did it in my basement to wrap lallys (impressed the wife, thanks for that), and now I'm back watching again because your content and finish skill is top notch. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience
9:40 we have ours set on a smaller Rubbermaid shop cart that is topped off with a piece of 3/4” ply, slides right off on to saw stop and visa versa, exactly like the one I saw under your chop saw out feed, yes more expensive than shop made box with caster’s but it’s what we had at time
18:50 back filling collector is no fun especially when media gets filled up, we had the dust deputy from Oneida but wires got severed, so I put a light behind flex tubes, though now we’ve upgraded to a rotary air lock from Oneida
Welcome back and thank you as always for great content and instruction. Hope the wife is doing well too.
Fantastically detailed tutorial! "Master Class" is no exaggeration. Thank you.for a tremendous resource.
Ive been using Ridge Carbide blades for almost 10yrs they are amazing! Good to see you dropping videos again
Hello Spencer, so glad to have you back. You have been missed. I have noticed even more detail and explanation to your master class of teaching. Which is very helpful and appreciated. Something very useful to my work flow is a Bora roller chassis that is expandable, height adjustable and on locking caster wheels that would work well as an infeed table and material transport device. I am sorry that I can't recollect the name but I see that you have a lot of their lumber storage racks so you are familiar with their quality. Thanks again Spencer. 👍👍
The little things in life ! Words of wisdom
I am impressed about how well you are organized. That should provide you the solid base for perfect end product…
Always droppin crispy gems!!!!
You are top notch. I watch you work to remind me, its about the details. Spend a little time to save more time later.
Your new shop is incredible 🤤
Thank you for sharing your skills and knowledge! You’re able to pass the tips and tricks as efficiently as you work. Now for the but,,,,ditch the trash can for the power feeder! One day it’s going to fold up like a beer can and there go your toes -it’s not like you don’t have a shop handy to build a proper rolling cart.
Thank you. Great video
Fabulous tutorial. Best ever!!!
Spencer,
Thank you for sharing your tips & tricks.
Another great video.
Have a Blessed Day!
Very nice job explaining every step . Learning new things from all of your videos.
Great Video, thanks for taking the time to post it.
I would agree on the Glue-Bot however a close 2 nd is the Milwaukee 23 ga Pinner ! I know I hv put tons of pins in mine and I bet your in the truck loads ! I used to say the Porter Cable Air pinner was Solid Gun , until I got the Milwaukee!
Great Video ! Spence I am a man of God ! So u can be assured you and the family R on my list !
Love this, thanks for taking the time to document and explain your process for bream making.
Made parts for 12 box beams yesterday. Table saw power feeder was a game changer for me. Would’ve been misery processing all these 1x8 boards without it. But now I gotta find some good lightweight gloves because these miters are murder on my hands.
Thank you for posting this video. This is is really high quality stuff.
You're such a professional !!! As always, great work !!! I have to say, leaving that feeder on that barrel makes me nervous 😮
Great video sir thank you for showing how its done . Only thing i would add (if possible dimensions permitting) run the edge on a jointer before ripping the miter . And also give yourself some relief where the beam goes to the ceiling . Either a rabbit cut or a 30 degree cut to make it easier to scribe that 3/4" solid oak
Thanks for a great video ! 🎉
So much info really helps us that aren't experts (just yet) 😊
Hope ya have an awesome week and everything turns out great for the final part of the job 😅
👍🤙👊
Great tutorial Spencer!! If I may add your poplar FJ cleats id have to rip a 1.5 degree bevel on so when we go to install there’s less of a chance to get hung up on the cleats leading edge👍🏼And dang you for making me want Power feed!!
If i ever get rich. This is the man i paying to fly out and layout my house.
Glad you're back
I do my box beams very similarly, I put a 30 degree cut on the top edge of my beams so when I cut my ceiling scribes I’m not cutting a full 3/4”. It’s an extra step at the table saw but with a feeder it goes fast and it saves time on site during the install.
Awesome video/tips...thanks Spencer!
Hey Spencer
If you just squeeze the glue straight into the point of the miters..when you do that first roll over it will spread the glue more even all the way across both miters..and it saves you from having to squeeze the glue on both pieces. It's a one shot deal instead of two. It will cut your glue bott squeezing time in half
Best finish carpentry processes and tips. thanks
THEY HAVE GLASSES WITH CAMERAS IN THEM. thanks for being back.
Very informative and professional video, thank you. You must have mortgaged your house for all that White oak, I’m paying 8.40 a Bd ft here in NC. Prayers for you and your wife❤
Thank you so much for your videos
Spencer, great content and in-depth explanation. You never disappoint. However, one thing I noticed here that was omitted from your previous box beam builds is here you didn’t burnish the folds. You just went straight to sanding. Do you no longer burnish and just incorporate this in while sanding?
If the miter is really good and is fitting really good, burnishing isn't required. Burnishing is more necessary if you have a slightly open miter in some areas. In this case I was able to lightly sand while the glue was wet and get a perfect miter while slightly easing the edge, that's all I needed here.
Great video…again!
And we’re back.👍👍👍👍💯🏝️🇨🇦
Thanks for the master class! You had a previous video where you used a shaper for the 45 and a t/g system? Not a fan anymore? Love the Festool EC 150 but put a hard pad on it to save corners. On last thing, Oneida makes a cyclone for the Festool vacuum. Thanks again.
You could buy acrilyc or transparent barrels so you can follow if they are getting full
Master that’s all I can say👍🤛
Spencer, great video. Would love it if someday you would show a beam that is longer than single piece of lumber. I want to put a beam across my 24' ceiling and I am not sure how to piece it together.
I did a video earlier this year on installing a 30' ridge beam. That video would be a good reference. It was uploaded about 4-5 months ago.
@@InsiderCarpentry thanks....exactly what I was looking for
It's great to see u back they look great.
Good stuff!
A engine hoist might be a good investment for moving and setting the power feed unit around.
Very helpful video! I used this to learn how to make a fireplace mantel. One question. Any tips for adding mitred end caps.
i used that strapping Tape for miter folding veneered white oak plywood and it pulled a lot of the veneer off and left a lot of glue lines, when i tried sanding off the glue it was also taking the veneer off, so now when i do plywood miter fold i use regular tape
That is the bad thing about strapping tape. For plywood its a safer bet to use regular packing tape. I like the DUCK HD brand.
Like you say, it is very important to sand the tape residue off. I had a nice floating shelf, and i must have missed one of the sides, and when the painters came in and did their finish, i could see a tape mark. So sanding is mandatory!!
Lol. Super heavy and expensive ,but ill drag it around on this $30 garabage can..! Keeps the channel real though!
Great job as usual! You mentioned sanding tape residue so it doesn’t show up in a stain application. Is the tape residue visible to your naked eye, or is it sometimes not noticeable until you stain?
Often times it is not noticeable.
Awesome
Fantastic video. Is there a reason you don’t burnish anymore?
Welcome back!
So with the scrapping chisel and sanding, is it no longer necessary to burnish the corner with a punch?
If you have straight and flat boards and your miter cut is good burnishing is not necessary.
Why don't you glue the inside blocking to the sides? Great video Thanks
I like the sides to be able to flex out if needed.
Atta Boy Spencer❤
Awesome video. I'm going to be doing this soon. Is it worth adding glue to the sides of the blocking, gluing the sides of the beam with the blocking?
I don’t typically for a number of reasons. Sometimes I need to remove the blocks. If the sides can flex out it makes it easier to fit over the blocking sometimes.
Could you do a video on installing?
mucho bueno,the OLD sherrif is back in charge
At about 19:26 definitely got blue balled lol. Wanted to see that thing run.
Another banger
Amazing work! How do you install though?
I always use plywood as my blocking and I can rip it to any size I want
I think u should build a portable cart for the power feeder.
Sweet
i wish my company had a shop so i could do work like this in a controlled area we just always build beams like this and whatnot on the jobsite so much better to have a controlled area where you have all the tools you need and dont need right there
Can you use plywood for your bracing?
I prefer hardwood for the blocking. Given that plywood is multiple plies I just don't like the idea of hanging beams from it. Also, It's generally easier for me to use 1x material because its faster to use the longer lengths with just 1 piece where as with plywood I would need multiple pieces.
where do you get your finger jointed poplar? You trim supplier or hardwood supplier?
Hi Spencer. Why did you abandon the track saw method? Was it just to save time since you have a stock feeder?
The advantage of the track saw is that it straight line rips the material but it takes longer. I’d the material is straight I go straight to the table saw.
Got it and thank you. Praying for you and your wife.
Would a mini feeder still be good for a process like this or would it not be strong enough to hold the material down?
A mini feeder is better for smaller pieces of material IMO.
Crowned down, cupped up
Spencer we need a video on how to use a glubot, I have 3 and they all failed on me. What's the trick?
Mine tend to go bad also. You have to treat that cap tenderly.
Form work companys would take you r offcuts to use inside of forms. If they do that there. Also does that tape leave a residue? I never thought of ising off the shelf timber to govern size of beams. Got to go with architects
@@needaman66 that's a brilliant idea for the form work people. Wrap them up in bundles, leave them outside under a roof overhang and tell them to pick them up. 👍👍
I had a toilet staged on a trash can like you've got your powerfeed there when I was doing a bathroom floor. The trashcan folded silently under the weight of the toilet, and the toilet fell and shattered, denting the clear fir floor. It sent me into heart palpitations. I wanted to melt into the ground for a good 20 minutes.
And then I ordered another toilet and got on with my life. The client was an absolute champ, I'm actually building her a kebony deck and renovating a sunroom next year.
Thankfully I just upgraded to a new cart for it. I was afraid of that happening also.
@@InsiderCarpentry hey Spencer, someone makes a hoist that you mount inside the back of a pickup truck bed and they show it lifting oil drum barrels. Could be a great addition to the new cart.
What would you do if you had a steel beam measuring 14” wide and 30’ long. It’s packed out so I have a nailing surface. My question what kind of material would you use. Plywood for the 14” width but will have to have couple seams.
You'd have seams with any materials available. Plywood would be most stable.
Yes and if I had some material milled up for the full width be less seams with solid wood versus veneer plywood
Don't know if anyone has said anything but why don't you add a power socket to the saw bench for the feeder?