You all probably dont give a damn but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Milan Achilles i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
Spencer, I tried this for the first time today after seeing this video about a year ago. I will never do another mitered box post or Beam any other way. I was real nervous to try it but it came out looking super clean, going to install tomorrow. Thank you for all the effort you put into your work and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video! I am going to attempt these techniques on the next beams I build for my kitchen remodel. Thanks for taking the time to show the process in order to reach the final product.
This channel is amazing with the massive amount of information and techniques on carpentry. I am a DIYer, and this has made remodeling projects so easy, and I keep watching these videos over and over. Thank you Mr Lewis.
Just did my first baby beam of 4 ft as part of a much larger beam project and it went awesomely well thanks to you sir. Got a few looks at the shop, as they have always been built with miters glue and 15 gauge brads. 55 year old apprentice with 2 years in the trade, and your technique is awesome! Thanks again.
Thank you for your vids! I'm an apprentice carpenter and have learned loads from your videos and techniques. Really like how you talk about the details, like pros and cons of different tapes! Cheers for being humble and showing the imperfections/room for upgrading a certain move for the next assembly. All the best.
@@InsiderCarpentry ^i can ditto that comment. Though I'm past my apprenticeship years, still learning lots. I've never seen the tape trick applied to such a long run. Love it!
If you put the tape length wise as you did, then add tape across the 3 or 4 pieces, the tape length wise will contain the glue while the tape running across the 3 pieces will hold the miters together. We use to do it your way in the beginning, but quickly learned that the additional tape gave the assembly more strength to force the glue into the grain as well as up the joint to the interior.
A strap of tape perpendicular to the miter about every foot or two seems to help hold things tight for me... Also a quick run of a veneer roller down the tape before folding helps reduce glue bleed. I need to try the TB3! Great video
I love it u could even do this method onsite with a jobsite table saw and a tracksaw is obviously portable but def have to rip that straight edge first then throw it through the tablesaw and i think as long as the bevel is slightly steeper than a 45 this is flawless and anyone whos got patience could do it i love it keep up the slick ideas man
I use a small triangle ( saw ) file to touch up the teeth on the tape roller. I use them a lot for various quick tape jobs like flooring underlayment, vapour barrier etc. Great video, down and dirty, fast and simple !
I've used this technique with smaller boxes and blue painters tape. Recently I am building a large TV surround. The 45.5 is really important with large pieces. I did the first at 45 degrees and did not get a tight joint. The only issue was using the strong packing tape. Since the project was paint grade, I used MDF. That strong packing tape lifted some of the top surface of the MDF. Even though I sanded the pieces, the lift-off showed after spraying primer and satin finish. I had to prime a few costs and sand it down.
I just sid a test piece for this exact method with maple plywood. It does seem to take a slight amount of the veneer off when you pull the tape but a quick sand seemed to make it all good.
New sub here watching previous videos I like how you talk about being efficient I'm always trying to find new ways to do that. Being a one man crew is impressive
Nice job man. I did one with birch plywood recently and i wish i would have seen this beforehand. That strap tape seems like the way to go. I only had masking and it took a lot of time to get it right. That being said, im sure your finish product is far superior to mine... thx for the vid!!
Love the Videos Spencer! I make my beams and miter folds the same way. Love watching your videos on here and Instagram. There are always bits and pieces that I have not thought of or experienced and can apply it to my workflow! Thanks and keep up the Great Work!
Thanks-excellent video. I am learning a lot of new techniques which I plan to apply to various projects. Just one comment (which I hope you won't take as a criticism), it might be worth showing the end result at the beginning of the video and then it is clear what you are working to achieve.
I discovered your channel recently Spence and I love all your stuff. You are a very impressive carpenter, thanks for sharing everything, for a part time woodworker like myself your stuff is fantastic. This mitre fold technique on long stuff is just great, would you ever cover an existing beam with a fold technique or just fit every side panel separately? Thank again Steve
Thanks for video. Great technique! Should work for a four sided post or leg (spacers glued in place). Well explained. Can’t say enough positive about Jessem Stock Guides. I put them on the upgraded Biesemeyer fence on my old Craftsman table saw - no riving knife, no effective splitter, useless blade guard with kickback pawls. I also use a magnetic feather board. (BTW supper vs. dinner leads to an interesting discussion.) Thanks again.
I've used a lot of that strapping tape on packaging. It is by far, the best packaging tape out there, now I have a new use for it too! ...and yeah, you're not gonna be cutting that stuff with a standard tape gun cutting blade...
Thanks for the video, I was actually searching your beam videos yesterday to see the exact process you used to get that long straight edge. Having to move the guides to finish the cut is not ideal but I guess it gets the job done (Not sure if joining a 3rd guide rail would offer much/any advantage)...
Thanks for the great tips, but personally I created a rip sled for my table saw (clamp down board with the crown part overhanging). My table saw is 12 inch blade, so even at 45deg I have room for the sled, but you could rip a straight edge first, then pass with miter. Cheers.
Great tip with the strait line to remove the crown. Had this same issue yesterday. I wonder if the materials were shorter runs if you could run them over the jointer a few passes and then to the shaper with a chamfer bit and power feeder. Just thinking of how to do a large beam packages to increase productivity.
Anytime you can use a power feeder its amazing. But with tooling setup it might be counterproductive. I'm considering purchasing a 16' guide rail. Then i could just plop it down on any length and rip the bevel.
It looks like you have an extensive arsenal of track/plunge saws. How about a tool comparison between your favorite Festool vs the Mafell that was used in this video?
@@InsiderCarpentry I would love to see your comparison review of track saws. Have been planning to get the Mafell and use Bosch tracks (same but cheaper than Mafell's branded ones).
Love the method used it many times. We're doing a job now where the room is 24 ft long in the direction of the box beams. Obviously we can't build a box beam that long and install it and get tight joints to the walls on either end so we're going to have to two piece them. What is your advice on a good method to join them together. I've thought about just square button them with biscuits or a peg system but I'm afraid you're going to see The Joint. I thought about possibly a shiplap looking joint etc. Your expert thoughts would be appreciated
I saw your video and have used this myself in the past. It works great. Just one question, when you set the angle on the saw you made it for 45.5 degrees rather than 45. Is there a reason for that? Thanks and good work.
No hold down clamp on Festool track? When you moved the track, how do you keep from getting a discontinuity in the miter? It looked like you just aligned things by eye. When you say miter at 45 1/2 deg, are you measuring from the vertical or horizontal?
Instead of a track saw would a jointer work? I’m new to the woodworking. Starting small so far but want to expand my knowledge. Love your Newell posts. Want to do this in my house now
Hi, I'm 68 yo retired, have done some woodworking over the years and I'm in the process of remodeling my home I built and have lived in since 1980. I want to built and install and beams and have watched both your box beam and this tape beam videos. I like them both however I'm worried about the taping/gluing of the beams process. Would you say the box bean is a safer bet to go ? Looking for an opinion .
I could have sworn on one of your other videos you said to use 46 degrees for your miter. Does that help with the burnishing of the edge to close up any gaps?
If you are cutting off 3/8 when cutting on your chalk line, how do you still end up with 5 1/2 inside dimension? I would imagine that depending on the quality of the lumber you might have to make adjustments on the blocking. Thanks for posting this as I have in the past always used clamps and pin nails for building folded miters.
You can actually try to 3 inch wavy packing tape it gives more surface area to grip specially around the microphones rather than having a 1 inch I have an inch and a half on each side or surface area to grip the surface of the work. Just a suggestion Greg
I'm a GC who is starting to self perform more finish and your videos are a huge reason I am feeling comfortable doing that. Do you think this method would work with hardwood plywood or are the veneers too thin, possibly showing through at the corners?
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try this for my next DIY project. I have a question - my beams are longer than 16'. I can't seem to be able to find cheaper boards I can stain that's longer than 16' at a local store unless I go cedar. If I were to join two pine boards, would gluing sanding and staining hide the jointed surface or would it still show?
I have struggled getting the correct measured cut width when each side of the board has miters. How do you align the fence, blade and work piece to get the right cut width you want? I can never align the blade with my marks when mitering. Hope that makes sense. Oh and I am talking about on the table saw. Thanks
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Strapping Tape - amzn.to/30zDOCX
Tape Dispensing Gun - amzn.to/3iwaCCQ
Titebond III Wood Glue - amzn.to/3jwyvMa
I saw you using a red saw on a festool track-what kind of saw is that
You all probably dont give a damn but does anybody know a tool to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I would love any help you can give me.
@Jamir Coen Instablaster ;)
@Milan Achilles i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and im in the hacking process now.
Takes a while so I will get back to you later with my results.
@Milan Achilles It worked and I now got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
Said it before and I'll say it again, Arguable the BEST carpentry channel on the planet.
Spencer, I tried this for the first time today after seeing this video about a year ago. I will never do another mitered box post or Beam any other way. I was real nervous to try it but it came out looking super clean, going to install tomorrow. Thank you for all the effort you put into your work and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video! I am going to attempt these techniques on the next beams I build for my kitchen remodel. Thanks for taking the time to show the process in order to reach the final product.
This channel is amazing with the massive amount of information and techniques on carpentry. I am a DIYer, and this has made remodeling projects so easy, and I keep watching these videos over and over. Thank you Mr Lewis.
Just did my first baby beam of 4 ft as part of a much larger beam project and it went awesomely well thanks to you sir.
Got a few looks at the shop, as they have always been built with miters glue and 15 gauge brads. 55 year old apprentice with 2 years in the trade, and your technique is awesome! Thanks again.
Retired finish carpenter. I've used that method many times on beams, pole wraps and newel posts.
So very much enjoying a fellow craftsman at work... a breath of fresh air
Thank you for your vids! I'm an apprentice carpenter and have learned loads from your videos and techniques. Really like how you talk about the details, like pros and cons of different tapes! Cheers for being humble and showing the imperfections/room for upgrading a certain move for the next assembly. All the best.
Thanks man. Glad its helping you.
@@InsiderCarpentry ^i can ditto that comment.
Though I'm past my apprenticeship years, still learning lots. I've never seen the tape trick applied to such a long run. Love it!
If you put the tape length wise as you did, then add tape across the 3 or 4 pieces, the tape length wise will contain the glue while the tape running across the 3 pieces will hold the miters together. We use to do it your way in the beginning, but quickly learned that the additional tape gave the assembly more strength to force the glue into the grain as well as up the joint to the interior.
Excellent instructional video Professor and so very well produced. Thank you!
I love all the detail that you go into in this video. Thanks for sharing!!
I'm going to have to try that on my next coffered ceiling. Thank you for taking the time to film and share your techniques.
I see a red saw running on a festool track-I thought it wouldn't work with anything but festool saw. What saw are you using?
A strap of tape perpendicular to the miter about every foot or two seems to help hold things tight for me...
Also a quick run of a veneer roller down the tape before folding helps reduce glue bleed.
I need to try the TB3!
Great video
Thanks for the tips! I have found the same thing with running some strips perpendicular also. 👍👊
Have to make three beams for my mountain house. This video gives mevthe confidence. Thanks
Greatly appreciate you taking the time to put this video together! Lots of tips and tricks packed into this video.
Great process. Thanks for taking the time to record and share it. It is going to save a lot of time.
I love it u could even do this method onsite with a jobsite table saw and a tracksaw is obviously portable but def have to rip that straight edge first then throw it through the tablesaw and i think as long as the bevel is slightly steeper than a 45 this is flawless and anyone whos got patience could do it i love it keep up the slick ideas man
Excellent video and talk through and you made it look so easy , superb.
Always fantastic videos. I'm going to apply this technique to make a 1.5" wide finished end panel for fridge cabinets using 3/4 plywood.
Thanks for the info! Perfect timing for my beams next week.
I use a small triangle ( saw ) file to touch up the teeth on the tape roller. I use them a lot for various quick tape jobs like flooring underlayment, vapour barrier etc. Great video, down and dirty, fast and simple !
just did this today worked great - apprentice carpenter
Getting ready to make some faux columns to cover some piping at work....just ordered some strapping tape and a dispenser. Thanks for the tip.
I've used this technique with smaller boxes and blue painters tape. Recently I am building a large TV surround. The 45.5 is really important with large pieces. I did the first at 45 degrees and did not get a tight joint. The only issue was using the strong packing tape.
Since the project was paint grade, I used MDF. That strong packing tape lifted some of the top surface of the MDF. Even though I sanded the pieces, the lift-off showed after spraying primer and satin finish. I had to prime a few costs and sand it down.
Your carpentry skills are awesome dude.. who ever disliked this video they're just unhappy people.. jealousy..👌✌👍
This is a great technique it totally beats glue and brads
Awesome video man. I’m doing this on a beam light for my dining room. Will definitely use your tape and burnishing tips!
Nice work! This technique is something I have used for many years building teak cabinetry for yachts .And yes titebond 3 is the way to go.
I did 3 folded miter columns today with the HD tape. Perfect.... 45.5, titebond, flawless... Thanks brother...
I did buy a bunch of strapping tape for the next ones... LOL
Glad to hear it worked well!
Maffell saw on festool rail... Nice... just done this recently myself
Hey man thank for making these videos you have helped me on the job from just watching your videos. You are really talented.
Glad to hear it!
I just sid a test piece for this exact method with maple plywood. It does seem to take a slight amount of the veneer off when you pull the tape but a quick sand seemed to make it all good.
Thank You for ALL the info tips man .
You Da Man
Looks like it works very well. Have to give it a try. Thanks.
Absolutely love the method. I'm going to try it on my next set of beams. Keep the great videos coming brother.
Thanks, will do!
I was fighting with long miters a month ago while making a bookcase. This is genius!
LOL
Great idea. Never saw that before
That's a great idea! Thank you for posting!
New sub here watching previous videos I like how you talk about being efficient I'm always trying to find new ways to do that. Being a one man crew is impressive
You always have great tips to share. Appreciate it!
My pleasure!
Nice job man. I did one with birch plywood recently and i wish i would have seen this beforehand. That strap tape seems like the way to go. I only had masking and it took a lot of time to get it right. That being said, im sure your finish product is far superior to mine... thx for the vid!!
Excellent insights on the finer points. Love it.
you make this look so simple
Going to use these tips to wrap some columns that support my covered patio in cedar. Thank you. Subbed 👍
Love the Videos Spencer! I make my beams and miter folds the same way. Love watching your videos on here and Instagram. There are always bits and pieces that I have not thought of or experienced and can apply it to my workflow! Thanks and keep up the Great Work!
Awesome thank you for sharing your tips and techniques
Had a job like this just last week that had to be done on site with the track saw, I used Gaffer tape (Australia) and it worked well.
Love all of his videos, so detailed and so practical.
Very nice I love it! Really cool chalk line!
love seeing you more active on YT, came from insta and this is just great content. next up, stair caps?
Always glad to see your vids.
Glad you like them!
Thanks-excellent video. I am learning a lot of new techniques which I plan to apply to various projects. Just one comment (which I hope you won't take as a criticism), it might be worth showing the end result at the beginning of the video and then it is clear what you are working to achieve.
The problem is the end result doesn’t happen for three months after I do the work. But I’ll see what I can do.
Awesome technique!
Awesome video as always!! Hope you and the family are doing good!
Doing great. Thanks Garret. 👍
I discovered your channel recently Spence and I love all your stuff. You are a very impressive carpenter, thanks for sharing everything, for a part time woodworker like myself your stuff is fantastic. This mitre fold technique on long stuff is just great, would you ever cover an existing beam with a fold technique or just fit every side panel separately? Thank again Steve
Fantastic job thanks for sharing 🍺
great idea
Very accurate and quick.
Another Great video!! How about a shop tour next?
That's definitely on the list of videos I want to do.
Thanks for video. Great technique! Should work for a four sided post or leg (spacers glued in place). Well explained. Can’t say enough positive about Jessem Stock Guides. I put them on the upgraded Biesemeyer fence on my old Craftsman table saw - no riving knife, no effective splitter, useless blade guard with kickback pawls. I also use a magnetic feather board. (BTW supper vs. dinner leads to an interesting discussion.) Thanks again.
Haha! I am a defender of "supper". My wife and kids try and use "dinner" and I hate the word. LOL
Insider Carpentry And then there’s Snoopy. Somehow “Dinner time, dinner time, din, din, dinner time.” just doesn’t make it.
Thans for the tips
I've used a lot of that strapping tape on packaging. It is by far, the best packaging tape out there, now I have a new use for it too! ...and yeah, you're not gonna be cutting that stuff with a standard tape gun cutting blade...
nice one spencer
Thanks for the video, I was actually searching your beam videos yesterday to see the exact process you used to get that long straight edge. Having to move the guides to finish the cut is not ideal but I guess it gets the job done (Not sure if joining a 3rd guide rail would offer much/any advantage)...
Like we weren’t all waiting for the tape pull!!
Thanks for the great tips, but personally I created a rip sled for my table saw (clamp down board with the crown part overhanging).
My table saw is 12 inch blade, so even at 45deg I have room for the sled, but you could rip a straight edge first, then pass with miter. Cheers.
You are awsome,,,,,,. Thank you
Great tip with the strait line to remove the crown. Had this same issue yesterday.
I wonder if the materials were shorter runs if you could run them over the jointer a few passes and then to the shaper with a chamfer bit and power feeder. Just thinking of how to do a large beam packages to increase productivity.
Anytime you can use a power feeder its amazing. But with tooling setup it might be counterproductive. I'm considering purchasing a 16' guide rail. Then i could just plop it down on any length and rip the bevel.
Insider Carpentry my next thought. Adding another 8’ track to my festool track lol.
I do this with vinyl millwork base. Works well.
Very informative and helpful. Perhaps a closeup of how much glue in the joint is the proper amount, or I can just try it on scrap pieces to learn.
Thanks
It looks like you have an extensive arsenal of track/plunge saws. How about a tool comparison between your favorite Festool vs the Mafell that was used in this video?
It's definitely on my list to do a track saw comparison video. I have 5, and I'd definitely do things different if I could go back.
@@InsiderCarpentry I would love to see your comparison review of track saws. Have been planning to get the Mafell and use Bosch tracks (same but cheaper than Mafell's branded ones).
Love the method used it many times. We're doing a job now where the room is 24 ft long in the direction of the box beams. Obviously we can't build a box beam that long and install it and get tight joints to the walls on either end so we're going to have to two piece them. What is your advice on a good method to join them together. I've thought about just square button them with biscuits or a peg system but I'm afraid you're going to see The Joint. I thought about possibly a shiplap looking joint etc. Your expert thoughts would be appreciated
Typically I'd just be doing a standard but joint. And do my best to grain/color match the splice.
That was awesome
Asmr packing tape removal at the end 👌
Got excited to try this unfortunately my menards track saw only goes to 45.
What brand of saw you are using with that Festool Track, it appears to work very well.
I saw your video and have used this myself in the past. It works great. Just one question, when you set the angle on the saw you made it for 45.5 degrees rather than 45. Is there a reason for that? Thanks and good work.
Ensures the outside corner comes together tight.
No hold down clamp on Festool track? When you moved the track, how do you keep from getting a discontinuity in the miter? It looked like you just aligned things by eye. When you say miter at 45 1/2 deg, are you measuring from the vertical or horizontal?
Instead of a track saw would a jointer work? I’m new to the woodworking. Starting small so far but want to expand my knowledge. Love your Newell posts. Want to do this in my house now
Hi, I'm 68 yo retired, have done some woodworking over the years and I'm in the process of remodeling my home I built and have lived in since 1980. I want to built and install and beams and have watched both your box beam and this tape beam videos. I like them both however I'm worried about the taping/gluing of the beams process. Would you say the box bean is a safer bet to go ? Looking for an opinion .
I could have sworn on one of your other videos you said to use 46 degrees for your miter. Does that help with the burnishing of the edge to close up any gaps?
Great Video, would you do anything different if it was for an exterior beam wrap?
If you are cutting off 3/8 when cutting on your chalk line, how do you still end up with 5 1/2 inside dimension? I would imagine that depending on the quality of the lumber you might have to make adjustments on the blocking. Thanks for posting this as I have in the past always used clamps and pin nails for building folded miters.
I fudged my cut over a bit both ways and had to shave 1/16 off a couple of the 5-1/2” blocks.
Is that the maefel track saw? If so how do you like it? Love the content. Learn something new every video.
I was thinking the same thing.
It is. I love it except that it doesn't line up with festool guide rails when beveled.
You can actually try to 3 inch wavy packing tape it gives more surface area to grip specially around the microphones rather than having a 1 inch I have an inch and a half on each side or surface area to grip the surface of the work. Just a suggestion Greg
Do you ever have issues with the miter edge running against the table saw fence? Messing up the edge?
No not really.
I'm a GC who is starting to self perform more finish and your videos are a huge reason I am feeling comfortable doing that. Do you think this method would work with hardwood plywood or are the veneers too thin, possibly showing through at the corners?
Depends on the plywood you're using and how good you are with the sander. With the plywood I use sanding through usually isn't an issue.
Great video, what material do you suggest for beams with a stain finish?
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try this for my next DIY project. I have a question - my beams are longer than 16'. I can't seem to be able to find cheaper boards I can stain that's longer than 16' at a local store unless I go cedar. If I were to join two pine boards, would gluing sanding and staining hide the jointed surface or would it still show?
Done correctly it won’t be too noticeable.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thanks for the reply!!
What was the saw you were using with the Festool Track? Does it have more torque than the TS-55 or TS-75?
How do combine boards for longer beams? I have a 36’ center ceiling length. Great videos man.
@Insider_Carpentry - Why 45.5, and not straight 45? Room for error, or for filling of that 1 degree, with glue?
Room for error, room for glue, ensures the outside corner is tight.
Nice
Spencer What type of track saw your using ? If you don’t mind me asking. Doesn’t look like the Festool
This is a really great video. Do you have any tips or things to watch out for when using a track saw for the mitre rip?
Do you have any trouble with tape adhesive sticking to the wood and causing staining issues?
I always sand after removing the tape.
love your techniques & teaching method! Why 45.5 degrees?
I have struggled getting the correct measured cut width when each side of the board has miters. How do you align the fence, blade and work piece to get the right cut width you want? I can never align the blade with my marks when mitering. Hope that makes sense. Oh and I am talking about on the table saw. Thanks