It's like cheating
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- Опубликовано: 22 ноя 2023
- Why is it that the miters sometimes looks awful even though you've done everything to the book? This might be the answer your looking for.
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Dear Swede, this was a masterclass in how to stretch 5 seconds of advice into 8 minutes and 22 seconds without irritating your audience too much. :-)
Thank you! If someone says masterclas Im proud 😃
I appreciate the lack of a long drawn out introduction or constant repetition which often seems to be a common thing with US RUclipsrs.
There's so much irony here I dont know where to start
@@TheSwedishMakerhaters gotta hate bud, leave ‘em to it
And the magic advice that feels like cheating is get good tools and set everything up appropriately. I'd say I'm mildly irritated. I mean, as irritated as one can get after clicking clickbait
There may be another dimension to adjust on your table saw. Once the blade is aligned with the miter slot, angle the blade to 45 degrees. Then cut a 45 on a a wider board, and push completely through. If there is a secondary cut off the back side of the blade, then the table needs to be tilted back to front. Check both miter slots. Insert shims on the bolts holding the table down, typically on the front side. When there is minimal saw dust raising from the back of the blade, it's in tune.
Hope that makes sense. Happy woodworking.
Thanks a lot for that tip! I will check that directly.
I learned that 45 years ago. My dad's saw had that bad. Unlike the other adjustments it isn't something that is provided for in the build of the saw. So it requires shims. I guess some saws are made accurately enough that it doesn't mater, but it caused smoke on our delta 9"
There are two ways the blade can be out of square on a table saw. Either the plane of the saw cut is not aligned with the mitre slot - OR - the saw blade does not run square against the arbour, that is it might have a wobble. It is important to check for both, especially if you have an older table saw or are using cheaper blades.
Checking both factors is similar but subtly different.
To check the first, mark a spot on the blade and check that spot both as far forward and as far back as possible.
To check the second, keep the dial indicator in the same spot fore or aft, and rotate the blade to see if there is a wobble. While the dial indicator is on the saw table we may as well check both factors.
The 44.9 trick is always good.
One other tip is that if you are cutting mitres in hardwood the piece often will shift under the pressure of the blade pushing against it (either that or the blade bows as it gets into the meat of the cut. I kind of suspect that really). I once got a very slight bulge on the mitre face in hard Maple. Only when I started clamping the pieces down firmly on my sled and used a freshly sharpened blade with a slow cut did that go away. It seems that neither hand pressure or a stop are firm enough. (I guess I am OCD when it comes to getting those mitres right :) )
Thanks for the great videos. Keep it up.
Thanks for the tip of clamping down. I had that happen a lot on my contractor saw - so I think your right about the blade bowing. And that's a really good tip to check the arbor as well. Im going to do that.
I’m really enjoying your channel. I don’t think I’ll ever make such a charging station, but that’s ok. I like seeing the tools used, how they’re used, and different techniques. I also like hearing different folks describe things. Different people different explanations added together usually enhances understanding. Like the first comment about the wrong angle. I right away understood the error of the comment. Frame of reference is always important. The discussion helped bring that out. Thank you for another great episode. I know we are in a very global culture these days where we are becoming more unified, but if there are any unique Swedish woodworking styles, tools, or processes, I’d love to learn about them.
Thanks a lot! Totally appreciate it. I´ll think about if there are any special Swedish styles, tools or processes - thats a really good idea.
I’m with you there!
So thankful that you specifically mentioned this can be done not just on the one tool you displayed in the video but others. So many times I watch a how to video and they show only one tool and never explain or show if the skill they are demonstrating can be done with other tools. Thank you!! 😊
Hey! Thanks a lot!
Enjoyed the video and attention to detail, including tips on checking for square. The 8:22 flew by in what felt like 5 seconds. The photography and editing were top notch. And I find your voice/accent soothing for some reason. Subscribed.
Love the new camera quality, added lighting and ambience of your shop.
thanks a lot!
RUclips put this in my feed and I'm grateful. I just got a table saw and never thought about about any of this. Getting miters and cuts perfect has never been my strong point but I aim to fix that. Thanks
nice! Glad it helped!
Again a very cool video.
So it is all about setting up the saw correctly. I have learned to take a closer look at my own setup and to give this extra 0.1° to get a closed miter at the edge 😉 Thanks for that.
Thank you for watching!
Dear Swede, thanks so much for this video. As somewhat of a newbie I appreciate the dialogue and process you went through to get the results you ended up with. Your detail are beneficial to someone like me! Thank again!
Hey! Thanks a lot!
How is the 3D printing business doing? Will you continue selling 3D printed products?
I havent actually started it up again since moving. There's been to much to do. Im not sure at this point If I will start it up again. thank for watching!
I was just in Sweden. Beautiful there. Well done on the charging station!
thanks a lot! Yeah it's really beautiful!
Absolutely loved watching this video! First time finding your channel, and you covered so many things I'm interested in (woodworking, table saw, precision, 3D Printing, charing stations!). Subscribed straight away, and am looking forward to checking out your other vids. Great work (and nicely filmed!)
Thanks a lot! Truly appreciate it
Good advice! As an experiment I tried doing white primed architraves but exaggerated and even they fill much nicer with the internal gap rather than the external gap. I then decided I'd set up my saw precisely for any subsequent mitres that would be visible. Much better results!
nice to hear! thanks for watching!
Lots of respect to you for committing to a response for each comment. I've not seen anyone else do this in my RUclips experience.
Excellent video as well. I like how clearly laid out the video is and compliments the voice over. It is clear you put much time and effort into your video.
I've just subscribed! 👍
hey, thanks a lot for that - I appreciate it. And thanks for noticing - your the first one to notice.
Loads of comments without replies.
That was really wonderful to watch! I struggle with miters on non-box items so much that I simply don't bother trying to make boxes at all (my frames/boxes always come out looking shoddy). So thanks! I'll give your tips a go!
Thanks!
How do you find the power on that table saw? Does it bog down at all? I have the fusion 2 110V and it is horribly underpowered! Also, very nice video:)
I haven't had any power problems yet, but it does have 3hp 220V - so I don't think it should. Thank you!
I have my dad's old saw at the cottage. He always ran it with a 3/4 HP motor. We had a flood and it killed the motor. This year the only motor I had around was a Leason 1/2 hp motor off the mini lathe. It is a substantial motor in size, but still only rated at 1/2 HP. Took everything I pushed at it, which did not include 3" hard maple. Some stuff will require lots of power, but for the stuff I was doing around the shop this summer, it was no big deal. Conversely, if the 3HP motor I had on my General 10 inch wasn't happy it could throw a block with enough force to kill you. 1.5 HP is a good compromise.
You not only told us how to achieve the perfect result, but also **why** the other methods do not achieve it, and I value that a lot. Thank you!!
Thanks! Appreciate it
Now then top quality fun video as usual. Excellent voice over and very informative I’m loving it
thanks man! Can't wait to see your videooooohhh!
Great miter tips! I will be these into use right away.... can't believe I'm been doing it wrong for so long.
Thanks! Hope it works out
Nice video Pierre! This is a trick I've seen before but never wrapped up in such a nice little video package. Thanks!
thanks a lot Jason! Appreciate it!
How to actually, with any saw:
- Cut a piece of scrap in two.
- Flip the offcut and cut it again, removing the edge that you cut first. Now both pieces of scrap have the same angle.
- Put the two pieces together against a straight edge to make a straight line.
- Did it fit? Profit.
- Did itn't fit? Adjust the saw and start again.
You can use whatever you want (a square, an electronic meter, a cardboard box, your intuition etc.) to get it close to begin with, but the method for actually getting it right is always the same.
Nice tip!
just want to say, you are doing a good job and i enjoy seeing your videos, keep up the good work
Thanks a lot! I really appreciate it
Fantastic, I will try all the suggestions. I've been plagued with bad mitered joints ever since I started woodworking many, many moons ago. I like your idea for the charging station too.
Great video and thank you for sharing the tips and tricks. I am going to use this method from now on but I am one of those who still going to be bothered about miters not lining up even though they are suppose to when cut at 45 degree.
haha you and me both
I just discovered your channel, and now I am filled with an overpowering desire to go obsess over the straightness of my table saw blade. I was gonna watch more of your videos, but now I won't have time... guess I'll have to sub and come back later!
All kidding aside, I appreciate the video and advice. Keep it up!
Thanks, great advice. There is something we call in Switzerland and maybe generally "fixing something to death" This is a translation in Swiss German it sounds much better. I made a box with miters.. There were ugly as .. I was so angry I cut off the corners with another 45 and glued new wood to the corners. Which then of course looked like an accident. 12 hours later "fixing something to death" the box ended up in the stove.. I am very happy for your videos - shortening my learning cycle by copying good practice ;-)
thanks a lot! Sorry about your miters ending up in the stove.
🤣🤣🤣
I truly like your channel. Your presentation is so smooth and draws me in. I thought you were going to do the 44.9 trick as I do this as well. My worst miter mistake was when I was making a liquor dispenser for a close friend. The frame and mounts for the dispenser was sapele. I was down to the last cut and some I moved my stop and cut it two inches short and you guessed it, I was out of sapele wood. I had to get more. Oh I was mad. Loved video gave great idea for charging station
Oh man! That sounds like a real bummer. I get that you were mad.
Great video and awesome advice. Additionally, I love your shop aesthetic / style, so clean and sharp looking with the dark accents. How long did it take you to get your shop space to look this good?
Long mitres work so well with the track saw as the weight is all on the product. Or a clamp down jig for the panel saw. Either way you are spot on by having a tiny gap on the inside. The way I see it is that it’s somewhere for the glue to go so it doesn’t force the front out
very true - long miters on the track saw is really the way to go
Appreciate your clarity and great instruction. Thanks for taking the time to share your amazing insight.
Thank you!
Great video, I never thought of under cutting the 45 at 44.9. Make it easier because usually you will not see the inside corner up close. Thanks for sharing.
No problem. Just stay above 44 degrees if your not measuring from 90 like I did in the video :)
Thank you. Sharing great advice is always helpful.
I actually learned something. Thanks and very well done vid and editing
Thank you
Can folks really not figure this out on their own? If you’ve got a table saw, a chop box, christ if you even know what a miter cut is, then you should probably have enough curiosity and ambition to try a few different angles. Good video though man.
I just came across your video, sounds like a good plan. My garage shop has gone unused for several years but now that I'm retired I've have been getting everything tuned up and started. I will give your suggestion a try.
Hey! Thanks a lot! And congrats on getting back to it
I found your preparation steps and explanations of what you didn't like to be as instructional as your advice on fixing miters. Cutting the angle sharper than 45° deforms the wood slightly to mate evenly (like the screwdriver fix but better) , even when the square is racked a little. Thank you! I wondered why you attached all your charging pockets to the outside of the box, though.
I had the usb hub on the inside and then I attached the devices on the outside. Thanks for watching!
That charging wall is super cool. Greetings from Nashville, TN!
hey! thanks a lot! it does actually do the trick for me right now
5:40 Essentially set your blade to 44.9° rather than 45°. Hopefully that saved y’all some time 👍
Excellent advice. Personally I prefer the 45 triangle over the digital reader as I’ve found them to be non-repeatable. So, if you’re really serious or you’re using 500 dollars in walnut on your miter, use a triangle and throw away the digital angle finder.
Fair enough!
And do you leave the gap as he showed?
@@angellas.1314 Generally speaking no. Using a triangle I trust, I know it's going to be 45. That said, I have on occasion left a small gap at the bottom to use the trick in this video. If you use the digital scale, you should always use the trick.
I use a digital every day and it's always been dead on. But that's the difference between a $5 angle finder and a $50 angle finder. You get what you pay for...
Good tip! I will definitely use this on my next project, thanks.
thanks!
Great tip for making tight miters. I'm definitely using this technique on the long miters I have to do this week. I like the charging station and was thinking how much more polished it would have looked if you would have inset the front panel in a rabbet so that the beautiful edge of the frame was not broken by the edge of the backboard. Nice work.
Very true! I dont know why I didnt think of that
Good stuff. Just subscribed. Went through your list of videos. Look forward to watching more. Thanks.
Oh thanks a lot! Appreciate it!
Great video, nicely narrated as well, good work bro!
That charging box looks sleek! :)
Thanks! :)
Every comment?!?! That's awesome mate! Oh, and so is your presentation. I kinda thought that's the fix you were aiming at, but you really did present in a highly creative and informational way. Well done!
thanks man! Appreciate it a lot!
This tip is awesome! Definitely need to tune up my tablesaw and try it out. Miters have been so frustrating, I just stopped doing them like you said
Thanks!
Great work. Love all the tools.
Good solution, need to give it a try. I Had good result with long miters using the L-fence.
I havent tried the L-fence but that's something I want to do.
Thank you for sharing your tip by the way you charging station looks pretty cool .
thanks a lot!
Looking awesome 👍😎. And the miter tips and project is cool too 😅. I'll need to get some of your gauges and stuff for the table saw. Can you just remind me of your affiliate link?
Thanks mate! Yes the gauge is really helpful. Dial Gauge: shorturl.at/lKVZ6
@@TheSwedishMaker Just going shopping frenzy on Banggood - thanks!
Great channel :)
Any tutorial about how to do that charging station? I am curious about what we don't see here, the electric circuit and the 3d prints for the accessories.
Cheers!
great tip video Pierre, makes me want to try the elusive mitre once more
Go for it Andrew :)
Glad I stumbled on this channel, you earned yourself another subscriber! Question: how did you decide to buy the HongDui HD-KS22 miter gauge/fence? Reminded me of the Harvey Compass MG-36. I need to upgrade from my factory (low quality) miter gauge, and just wondered your experience - why you chose HongDui (I've never heard of them) vs better known brands like Kreg, Incra, Rockler, etc. Thanks and happy woodworking!
Thank you! HongDui seems to make quality tools. I compared the miter gauges available - I found the Kreg one to be a bit lower quality, Incra seemed good but a bit more expensive and the Rockler one I didnt really look at because of availability in Sweden. Jonathan-Katz Moses works together with Hong Dui on some tools and it also helps that it looks really good :)
The Hong dui mitre gauge is very well reviewed, but it is still expensive if you get it with the Alu profile fence. Reviews also tend to not be very positive about the Kreg, so probably best to avoid that one, but the Incra and Jessem mitre gauges are pretty good.
Great info…
Quick question…
What is the black material you are using to build the project in this video?
I was looking for info on the #-D printed dial indicator holder for the miter gauge slot. Nice idea on the miter joints. Excellent video production.
Thanks!
Your video is so timely! Today I was testing my brand new Incra 1000HD miter gauge for making a perfect 4” square from four pieces of stock. Needless to say, results were good but not perfect, even though the miter gauge was perfectly square to the table saw blade and the blade had nominal runout .008 to the miter slot. Drives me crazy. I will make your recommended adjustment and look forward to closing those annoying gaps! Thanks! Not a fan of the screwdriver cheat.
I hope it helps - Ive shared your frustration :)
Fine video. One question -- what is the material you're using? Is is blacked yes wood, or something else? In the video it almost looks like ebony.
A very well explained video for all to enjoy. Something I would add to the discussion around cutting a 45 degree angle is an error in measuring that creates the need to go "just past" 45 degrees. The digital device used for measuring angles is displaying the angle created between the table saw surface and blade-body instead of between the table saw surface and blade-teeth. As shown in the video, the blade would need to rotate an additional small amount to account for how the teeth extend past the blade-body.
At the same time, a small right-angle was shown on the underside of the blade, leaving a gap at the bottom. Instead of focusing on the gap, a speed square with a 45 degree side can be used to have the blade-teeth just kiss the 45 degree side as they pass by, insuring the underside (or left side, as shown in the video) is now set to 45 degrees at the plane of rotation for the teeth. Both sides should, in theory, then be set to 45 degrees at that point; but, as we often see, where theory meets reality there is frequently a gap, and hence the need for videos like this to help close that gap physically and geometrically.
Thank you!
That is very well explained! I agree - theory doesnt always meet reality but accounting for the teeth is a really god tip!
Thank you for the education.
That is a really sharp looking custom charging station.
You do great work.
I just use my 1953 Dewalt 14” radial Arm saw. Set the arm to 45 degrees, and cut one side of the miter against the fence to the right of the blade. Then I put a 90 degree fence jig against the fence on the left side of the blade and cut the other mitre on that side with the stock against the 90 degree fence. Because I am cutting either side against the same blade setting, it does not even matter if the arm is out of calibration a degree or two, the left side of the miter will be wider by exactly the same amount the right side is narrow or vice versa… and ALWAYS add up to a perfect 90 as long as the 90 degree fence jig I made is a true 90 degrees. BTW this trick will work for ANY set of repeating mitre angles you need to make by just creating a fence jig that will accurately be the angle you want the two mitre cuts to add up to. Just get the radial’s arm angle close to the halfway angle for appearances sake and this method cuts perfect miters every time.
almost 10 Minute video to see this advice which is older then the ocean.
Nice class, I hope it helps many woodworkers. Thank you
As a DIY man, I've done plenty of rough work and have been able to cover things up. Lately I've been building a little more meticulous items and this video came at the right time. I'll start working with the current hand tools I have around the shop, but I'll probably keep the pencil trick in my hat...or behind the ear... or that triangle in the workshop that seems to suck every other tool I'm looking for...
Some great advice there fellow Scandinavian. I like the charging station too. Great combination of good old woodworking and modern technology to make it.
I look forward to your next video.
Thanks a lot!
Another great video.
Always a pleasure to watch you work and I'm always jealous of your tools and materials.
Keep sharing your passion so I can enjoy it with you 😊
Thanks and will do!
I understand your tip and see how it will help. I usually cut the miters then take them to my shooting board and make a very light pass with my hand plane. That’s how I was taught the make good miters.
that is something I want to do as well - it seems like the perfect perfect fix :)
my biggest miter mistake....I was cutting a rare endangered rain forest hardwood, (illegal to own since 1997) and smuggled into the country with a shipment of drugs for a US senator ...anyway.. my young apprentice bumped the table saw and threw it off it's 45 degree angle causing an angle error on $30,000 worth of hardwood! What to do? Well, I told the young apprentice to fix it! And in doing so he cut off 3 of his fingers! I glued up the project and used those fingers as wood filler, I had to grind up the meat and bones with some glue, but it worked perfectly!
Riktigt bra idé att ha en håltavla för att kunna variera skräddarsydda hållare på sin laddstation. Tack för den idén. Jag lånar den och modifierar den till min egen laddstation!
Great, and very timely (for me) tip, as I am in the process of making several new projects that require using a 45° miter! However, a few of them will have both the outside and inside corners visible... Any good tips on how to make both edges as tight as possible? I know I'm 4 months late on seeing this video, but I'm still hoping that you'll keep answering all questions as you stated 🤣
You're shifting the flaw (gap) to the unseen edge. Smart.
I would also add that when you're checking the table saw blade keep in mind that when the motor is running the blade tends to move away from the motor (known as End Play / Run Out), you can measure this with a dial indicator and adjust your cuts to account for it.
I just learned from Jonathan Katz Moses, who learned this from Stumpy Noob, to cut the mitres on a router table using a 45 degree router bit (making sure it is big enough for the thickness of your material). Going to try this the next time I need mitred corners.
Im def trying that as well. Seems like a good idea.
There are 91 degree router bits especially made to do this.
Thank you for the video. Quick question. The gap on the inside of the miter cut; would the glue be noticeable if this trick was used on a frame miter joint? If so, do you have any suggestions to deal with it? Thanks in advance.
Inte riktigt kommit in i allt med träbearbetning än sen vi flyttade in i hus med stor verkstad/garage, men denna video gjorde mig definitivt självsäker och mer taggad på att komma igång med finsnickerier 😃 Superbra video, Tack för att du delar med dig tips! ❤
Kul att höra! Stor verkstad är dröm :)
I imagine wood filling and/or wood glue on the inner ends will help with providing strength to it. Staples also help give extra support.
I make stretch boards for paintings, and also the frame. With the frame I need to be more accurate, however this is an eloquent solution for stretch boards. Thank you.
Good tips. I’ll definitely be checking my table saw blade for alignment.
thanks!
In germany and other EU countries, the table saw have a setup where the fence ad the backside of the blade is wider than at the front of your blade. This is there to procent back kick when the stock you saw pinches the blade at the backside. Also the cutting is done at the fronside of the blade. The only thing you should adjust is, if the fence at the backside is getting narrower than the front. What you REALY need is the blade front running 90 degre to the fence. And the 44,9 backcut.
If you have a jobsite tablesaw such as the Dewalt DW745 you might notice the miter slots aren't even, they vary in width from front to back, the top surface isn't flat and although you can make some adjustments it's never going to be spot on. Which is why measuring the results of the cut (along with sleds) rather than measuring the machine might be a better approach. Deflection though is still something to consider, depending on density of material. Because of these sort of issues and not having a cabinet saw I've started to cut mine by hand. Thanks for the vid!
The other secret is: When the blade is tilted, it pulls the workpiece sideways, tending to throw off the bevel. This is even a bigger problem with miters. My miter gauge has holes allowing me to screw in a larger back-stop. If that back-stop has a strip of high-grit sand-paper glued to it, then the added friction from the sandpaper solves the problem.
Hi Swedish Maker. Question, but first, great video, I really like your style. What is the material you used for the charging station box? The transcript has it as “vrat”. Thanks!
the material is called valchromat and is coloured through mdf basically. There are other types of coloured mdf as well - but this is the one I have locally. And thanks! appreciate it
You would find using Mylar packing tape on the corner is a better solution especially on long miters. Its main advantage is it does not stretch. The downside is it may pull some grain and require additional sanding. 3m 375 is the preferred tape professionally.
Good luck!
Ill try that tape
this is actually a pretty common thing in engineering where we use a lot of negatives tolerances, we'll for example write "45° +0/-0.1" to say "I want this angle to be maximum 45° and minimum 44.9°", this is used not only for angles but also for dimensions and loads of other parameters in order to ensure that mass produced parts will always be able to fit together
I enjoyed this video. Thanks! Question: What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?
thanks a lot! I'll say it's fast enough to beat me in a race - unless it's carrying coconuts, of course! 🐦💨
Great advice, thank you! I am just getting started in my woodworking journey, and I JUST got a new Klein digital angle finder. I will be making a hexagon box for my next big project, and this will help me immensely. Thanks for the tip! Are there any other quick nuggets of advice you'd give to someone just starting out? Mostly looking for technique advice, rather than investment guidance.
great timing then :) measure twice cut once ;)
I’ve been using the 44.9 degree undercut trick out of necessity because my big orange box store saw isn’t nearly as accurate as your Laguna. Cheers!
Cheers!
I liked it. And, the precision of the angles is really important if you do want to make highly precise miter cuts. So, I did not find it too long for the issues involved. Thanks!
😊
True!
I suppose it kind of depends how your digital angle gauge handles rounding. When it goes from 90 to 45, is 45 actually 45.000° or could it be 45.049?
Perhaps going 90 to 44.9 then up to 45 will actually be correct way to do it?
I actually haven't tried that, but I will for sure. It might depend on the angle gauge somewhat and therefor - the mitre gauge might be the easiest way of getting slightly less than a 45 degree mitre.
These are some useful tips. Never knew the blade on a table saw could be out of whack. I'll inspect the one in our hackerspace and align if necessary.
thanks! yes, check it out
Nice! Thanks a lot. I WILL include the 44.9 "trick" in my works.
Nice tip on the mitres. Also, I never heard of the 'screwdriver trick'. I hope not to use it but it is nice to know I have the option. Thank you for the video.
Thank you!
My biggest mitre mistake was not buying a quality mitre saw.
Any chance you will do a video about woodworking with only a circular saw (as your wood cutting tool, of course drills and stuff still allowed)? I have an absolutely tiny workspace so I cant justify the space a table saw would occupy
that would be a neat idea! I´ll definitely consider it!
Like you... most of my cuttings are done with a skill saw... I've tweaked the saw and made lots of jigs... works great... God bless
Very cool charging station! And I had heard of that little cheat to get perfect mitres, but haven't yet tried it myself.
thank you!
Bravo, wonderful information......cheers from Florida, Paul
thanks!
Bra tips och riktigt trevliga videor. Älskar den lite softa framtoningen. Snyggt filmat också. Sedan vill jag ju dubbelkolla att du svarar som utlovat 😉. Ser fram emot nästa video.
Tack! Det är så jag vet att någon kollat hela vägen till slutet 😂
Great video. Very informative. My only question is, when squaring the miter guage it seems to me it would improve accuracy if all angles were set from the same reference point. Since the miter slot is immovable, it makes more sense to set your 90 from there to avoid compounding misalignment between the guage and the blade.
that makes sense. I´ll try it
You are 100% correct, tweeterfire. Another thing that can go wrong checking against the blade is that sawblades are not exactly flat. That is the reason we choose a single spot on the blade to indicate against when adjusting the parallelism of the miter slots to the blade. So much easier to set the gauge with your most accurate square tucked against the bar and the fence, tighten and you are done.
I love creating waterfall miters but have been extremely frustrated with my results. I have a rigid table saw and it seems like theres no possible way to get things lined up. But i will keep trying!
Liked the video question is when did you purchase the Laguna table saw. I have the fusion F2 and love it it's also the first cabinet saw I ever owned. I have it dialed in to with in a half of a nidle width. Cheers from Alaska
hey! I just got the Fusion 3 this summer. I absolutely love it. It is my first cabinet saw and the only other thing I have to compare is my old contractor saw and it is night and day. I bet you've noticed the same. thanks for watching
I want to sing praises for the band clamps at 6:22. I have one, I use it to make picture frames. It does a great job every time. I tried other techniques, (90 degree clamps) this one is easiest, cheapest, and gets better results than ALL of them
There's an additional thing to be careful of when using the digital miter gauge to help tilt the blade to 45° (or 49.9°), one which is a bit hard to describe. I think (but am not sure) that the angle of tilt would be inaccurate if the gauge is twisted with respect to the blade, by not being placed on the blade so the long axis of the gauge lies along (or parallel to) the radius line of the blade extending from the center of the blade to its highest point above the tablesaw top. (Imagine tilting the gauge back when it's on the table saw top, then attaching it to the vertical blade in the same orientation. This would throw off the angle measurement when the blade is tilted.) There is bound to be a clearer way of describing the issue than what I just gave though!