Sedge a related question I have an assortment of festool rails I purchased a few years ago that mostly have never been used yet all the splinter guards are or have fallen off. I am thinking that festool must have an adhesive problem - it is well documented even Ron Paulk has done a video on it. Because the splinter guards are new, I would like to clean the rail up and re adhere with an adhesive- 3m 77 or? Thanks for any info Dave
I just bought a second hand hk 55 along with guide rails. I noticed the guide rails were missing these splinter guards. Could this be why I’m having such a hard time lining up my guide rail with my cut line? Is the splinter guard what I should be lining up my cut line to?
@ appreciate the quick response! I’m headed to the hardware store asap to get new splinter guards so I can stop guessing and get some more accurate cuts.
I've followed Sedge's directions to the letter (other than the C-A glue), but alas, to no avail. Before long, the Festool brand splinter guard comes unglued and begins to just hang. Trying to re-stick it is futile as it won't stay re-stuck even for a day or so, and even then, that's not good because one cannot be certain of getting it re-affixed to the precise same location on rail, which would require re-cutting. That solves the problem only for the very short term. My long-term solution: the first time an almost new Festool rail splinter guard becomes unstuck, I rip it off, gritting my teeth and muttering a few swear words as an incantation (guaranteed to make you feel better as you rip it off), and toss it into the garbage. I apply a new BLACK splinter guard from the company that makes turquoise power tools. The black one stays put on the rail until I decide to replace it, regardless of rain, shine, frost, heat, or humidity. Festool makes lots of good stuff. Their splinter guard glue isn't one of them. I think it's time they have a serious talk with someone who could supply a better adhesive for Festool's otherwise fine rail splinter guards.
Help!! Do you have a video about removing the old skid resistant strips on the back of the track? I’m having a h••• of a time getting the old one off. Heat gun doesn’t seem to loosen adhesive much. Thanks
Hi Sedge! What do you use to clean the guide rail if any adhesive is stuck to the surface after removing it? I removed my splinter guard, but there’s a little bit of residue left.
Sedge, I am about to replace my splinter guard and of course I came here to learn how. The reason I am replacing it is because when I put the splinter guard on the mark it doesn't cut on the mark. It is like the blade is out further then the guard. Did I do something wrong or did the guard just wear away? I would appreciate any help.
Thanks for this vid sedge i know it seem like an easy job but i know there would be people like me that have problems with it sticking. Also i have no luck with acetone for cleaning the old glue of i find cellulose thinners works way way better
No problem 👍... I have used Lacquer thinner as well to clean it off in the past...It seems to me that not cleaning the rail that the splinter guard sticks better.
@@sedgetool keeping the splinter gaurd back from the end of the rail is clever too because the end of the guide normally gets all banged up. I normally trim them from time to time on the mitre saw
I actually reuse a single splinter guard 2 times. Just peel it off, place it 3mm outwards, recut it and you got a new splinterguard. Never had any problems with it not sticking again. Just be careful not to get any dust on it and press on it firmly.
I'm unsatisfied with every (good) track saw being Blade Right in design. I'm a former lefty, (lost use of left arm/leg to a virus of all things), and let me tell you what... if you are a righty, you have no idea what you're missing when using right blade track saws. A right blade circular saw? That's fine. But for a track saw, it's a different beast all together. Watch a lefty using a track saw sometime. It's a revelation. No crossing arms. No stretching. No climbing onto your workpiece. If a left blade track saw existed, it would allow you to use the saw on your right side for longer rips. Even crosscuts. Now, you can use it one handed to your right, and you could even rip a piece of 5x5 or 4x8 plywood down the center, and you wouldn't need to twist, stretch, or become ambidextrous in that regard. It's crazy how thousands of people want a blade left, but the industry ignores us. I have the benefit of knowing how great it is as a lefty, using a right blade track saw. And how crappy it is as a righty using a right blade track saw. Most importantly I know the pain of never bring able to make perfect, straight cuts after spending 20 to 40 minutes setting up a rip. It crushes your soul. So just think about it one day. Having the saw to your right instead of left. The Motor on the opposite side of you, with blade on your side. Walking effortlessly with saw in your right hand. Not having to cross arms. Not having to twist stretch and lean. A free hand to hold your cord/hose if needed. So I wish a left blade existed from Festool pr Makita.... just so you could see what your missing. Ignorance is bliss. I wish I never used a track saw when I was a lefty. Now I definitely can't use one as a righty. So I'm stuck using a jigsaw, or a router table to rip lumber.
Sedge a related question I have an assortment of festool rails I purchased a few years ago that mostly have never been used yet all the splinter guards are or have fallen off. I am thinking that festool must have an adhesive problem - it is well documented even Ron Paulk has done a video on it. Because the splinter guards are new, I would like to clean the rail up and re adhere with an adhesive- 3m 77 or? Thanks for any info Dave
I use a little CA glue if it peels at the end ...a drop or 2 works.....
I just bought a second hand hk 55 along with guide rails. I noticed the guide rails were missing these splinter guards. Could this be why I’m having such a hard time lining up my guide rail with my cut line? Is the splinter guard what I should be lining up my cut line to?
I line up my splinter guard to the witness mark when Im using the HK55
@ appreciate the quick response! I’m headed to the hardware store asap to get new splinter guards so I can stop guessing and get some more accurate cuts.
I've followed Sedge's directions to the letter (other than the C-A glue), but alas, to no avail. Before long, the Festool brand splinter guard comes unglued and begins to just hang. Trying to re-stick it is futile as it won't stay re-stuck even for a day or so, and even then, that's not good because one cannot be certain of getting it re-affixed to the precise same location on rail, which would require re-cutting. That solves the problem only for the very short term. My long-term solution: the first time an almost new Festool rail splinter guard becomes unstuck, I rip it off, gritting my teeth and muttering a few swear words as an incantation (guaranteed to make you feel better as you rip it off), and toss it into the garbage. I apply a new BLACK splinter guard from the company that makes turquoise power tools. The black one stays put on the rail until I decide to replace it, regardless of rain, shine, frost, heat, or humidity. Festool makes lots of good stuff. Their splinter guard glue isn't one of them. I think it's time they have a serious talk with someone who could supply a better adhesive for Festool's otherwise fine rail splinter guards.
Thanks for sharing
Help!! Do you have a video about removing the old skid resistant strips on the back of the track? I’m having a h••• of a time getting the old one off. Heat gun doesn’t seem to loosen adhesive much. Thanks
i do not have a video on that .... but i use to use a utility knife and scrape it off....
@@sedgetool might be a good topic to make one on? Plenty of videos on splinter guard but could only find one on non slip strips
How deep do you set the blade when you trim it for the first time?
I usually set it about 10mm
Hi Sedge! What do you use to clean the guide rail if any adhesive is stuck to the surface after removing it? I removed my splinter guard, but there’s a little bit of residue left.
I rarely clean the residue....but...I use to use lacquer thinner with the older splinter guards
@@sedgetool thanks Sedge!
Sedge, I am about to replace my splinter guard and of course I came here to learn how. The reason I am replacing it is because when I put the splinter guard on the mark it doesn't cut on the mark. It is like the blade is out further then the guard. Did I do something wrong or did the guard just wear away? I would appreciate any help.
over time the guard does wear away..try bringing the saw up after the cut at full speed and then shut it off..might help...
Thank you very helpful
show how to replace the foam strips please
will do in the future !!!!
The strips are completely off - the CA glue would be a lot and difficult to clean off in the future thats why I wondered about 3m 77 contact cement?
It’s a good question... I have never tried using any other adhesive...
I really really really need to do this.
🤙
So I need a 14x100 Domino to do this correctly, even though I only have a DF500? I'M ON MY WAY TO MY FESTOOL DEALER!!! :)
That's the spirit! Any Domino will do !!!
Thanks for this vid sedge i know it seem like an easy job but i know there would be people like me that have problems with it sticking. Also i have no luck with acetone for cleaning the old glue of i find cellulose thinners works way way better
No problem 👍... I have used Lacquer thinner as well to clean it off in the past...It seems to me that not cleaning the rail that the splinter guard sticks better.
@@sedgetool keeping the splinter gaurd back from the end of the rail is clever too because the end of the guide normally gets all banged up. I normally trim them from time to time on the mitre saw
I actually reuse a single splinter guard 2 times. Just peel it off, place it 3mm outwards, recut it and you got a new splinterguard. Never had any problems with it not sticking again. Just be careful not to get any dust on it and press on it firmly.
cool Thanks !!!!
I'm unsatisfied with every (good) track saw being Blade Right in design.
I'm a former lefty, (lost use of left arm/leg to a virus of all things), and let me tell you what... if you are a righty, you have no idea what you're missing when using right blade track saws.
A right blade circular saw? That's fine. But for a track saw, it's a different beast all together.
Watch a lefty using a track saw sometime. It's a revelation.
No crossing arms. No stretching. No climbing onto your workpiece.
If a left blade track saw existed, it would allow you to use the saw on your right side for longer rips. Even crosscuts. Now, you can use it one handed to your right, and you could even rip a piece of 5x5 or 4x8 plywood down the center, and you wouldn't need to twist, stretch, or become ambidextrous in that regard.
It's crazy how thousands of people want a blade left, but the industry ignores us.
I have the benefit of knowing how great it is as a lefty, using a right blade track saw. And how crappy it is as a righty using a right blade track saw.
Most importantly I know the pain of never bring able to make perfect, straight cuts after spending 20 to 40 minutes setting up a rip. It crushes your soul.
So just think about it one day. Having the saw to your right instead of left. The Motor on the opposite side of you, with blade on your side. Walking effortlessly with saw in your right hand. Not having to cross arms. Not having to twist stretch and lean. A free hand to hold your cord/hose if needed.
So I wish a left blade existed from Festool pr Makita.... just so you could see what your missing. Ignorance is bliss. I wish I never used a track saw when I was a lefty. Now I definitely can't use one as a righty. So I'm stuck using a jigsaw, or a router table to rip lumber.
Sorry for the TedTalk. Lol. I'm just really trying hard to get right handed people to see that they've been duped this whole time.
Thanks
Sir, I hear you load and clear. It has always bugged the crap out of me as well.
All the Best, Chuck.
I disagree, the accuracy of the cutting edge should be the reason to replace it.
ok